tire pressure CHEVROLET TAHOE 1995 1.G Owners Manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely.
Suddenly an animal jumps
out in front of you.
You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is
about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each
front wheel and at
the rear wheels. The anti-lock system can change the
brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to
make the most of available tire and road conditions.
You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As
you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and
controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need
to get your foot up
to the brake pedal.
If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you
won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or
stops. Always leave enough room up ahead
to stop, even though you have
anti-lock brakes.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need
longer braking distances.
It’s best to
use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the
lower the gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand.
This has an
effect on steering, accelerating, and braking.
You may want to reduce the air
pressure in your tires slightly when driving
on sand. This will improve
traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces,
it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is
so poor
that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor
steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
4-21

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much
tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water
is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone
poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there
could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t
a hard and
fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is
to slow down when it is
raining.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlights - not just your parking lights - to
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be
help
make you more visible
to others.
especially careful when
you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more
clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road
spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)
City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on
them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay
attention to traffic signals.
Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and
plan your trip into an unknown part
of the city just as you would for a
cross-country trip.
4-26

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in
advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp
can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed
is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of
motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend
to
think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re
not fresh
- such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many
miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and
shoes you
can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained,
it’s ready to go. If
it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of
course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in
GM dealers all
across
North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before
a trip:
0 Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread
good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major
storm system?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain
falling asleep
at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or
whatever.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Loading Your Vehicle
I
PSI/KPA (COLD)
~ SEE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
The CertificatiodTire label is found on the rear edge of the driver's door.
The label shows the size
of your original tires and the inflation pressures
needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of
the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
The Certificatiodl'ire label
also tells you the maximum weights for the
front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find
out
the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure
to spread out your load equally on both sides
of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR
for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front
or rear axle.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
.Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not
change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle
the right way.
If your vehicle is equipped for front-end equipment (a snow plow, for
example), the front suspension may have been adjusted (raised) to level the
vehicle when the equipment was installed. If the front suspension was
adjusted, you must re-adjust the front suspension after the equipment is
removed to avoid possible front suspension damage. Adjust the front
suspension
to original design specifications for your particular model.
4-37

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine h
9. Then replace the
pressure cap. Be
sure the arrows
on the pressure
cap line up like
this.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the fan
is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan
speed increases as the clutch more
fully engages. So you may hear an
increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping
or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer
to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
5-24

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Inflation - lire Pressure
The CertificationD’ire label which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, or
on the incomplete vehicle document in the cab, shows the correct inflation
pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has
been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.
You can operate some vehicles at reduced inflation pressures
only when
you’ll be carrying reduced loads. On those vehicles, the minimum cold
inflation pressures for a typical reduced load are printed on the “Improved
Ride Tire Pressure” label located on
the driver’s door. Weigh the vehicle to
find the load on each tire and see the label for the minimum cold inflation
pressures for that load.
6-55

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is
all right. It’s not.
If your tires don’t have enough air
(underinflation) you can get:
Too much flexing
0 Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
0 Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the
spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking
at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires
- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure
to put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping
out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km)
for any signs
of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as
soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires
or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires’’ and “Wheel Replacement”
later
in this section for more information.
6-56

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires
on the vehicle. The first rotation
is the most important. See “Scheduled
Maintenance Services”
in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.
FRT FRT
When rotating your
tires, always use the
correct rotation
pattern shown here.
When rotating your
tires,
always use one
of the correct rotation
patterns shown here.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures
as shown
on the CertificatiodTire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened.
See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
6-57

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
Crankcase Depression Regulator Valve (CDRV) Svstem Check
Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection
Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection
Evaporative Control System Inspection
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Inspection
(if equipped)
Exhaust Pressure Regulator Valve Inspection
Follow Schedule I1
onZy if none of the conditions from Schedule I is true.
Every 5,000 Miles (8 000 km)
Engine Oil and Filter Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first)
Chassis Lubrication (or every
12 months, whichever occurs first)
Drive Axle Service
At 5,000 Miles (8 000 km) - Then Every 10,000 Miles (16 000 km)
Tire Rotation
Every 10,000 Miles (16 000 krn)
Shields and Underhood Insulation Inspection
Air Intake System Inspection
Thermostatically Controlled Engine Cooling Fan Check
(or every
12 months, whichever occurs first)
Every 30,000 Miles (48 000 km)
Cooling System Service (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first)
Front Wheel Bearing Repack (or at Each Brake Relining) (2-Wh\
eel Drive Only)
Fuel Filter Replacement
Air Cleaner Filter Replacement
7-1 1