wheel FORD SIERRA 1987 2.G SOHC Engines Workshop Manual

1.3 litre engine
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2
Engine code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JCT
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.02 mm
Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66.00 mm
Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1294 cc
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0:1
Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar
Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5800 rpm
Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 kW at 5700 rpm
Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Nm at 3100 rpm
Cylinder bore diameter
Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.000 to 79.010 mm
Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.010 to 79.020 mm
Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.020 to 79.030 mm
Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.030 to 79.040 mm
Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.510 to 79.520 mm
Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.520 to 79.530 mm
Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.530 to 79.540 mm
Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.030 to 79.040 mm
Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.530 to 79.540 mm
Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.030 to 80.040 mm
Chapter 2 Part A:
SOHC engines
Auxiliary shaft - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Camshaft and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . . . .24
Compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Crankcase ventilation system - inspection and maintenance . . . . . . .4
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .35
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .36
Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . .20
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . .21
Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . .10
Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation .12Engine dismantling,examination, renovation and reassembly - general
information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Engine/manual gearbox - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . .11
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .26
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . . . .6
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . .33
Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Timing belt and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
2A¥1
Specifications Contents
2A
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty

Inlet valve stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.025 to 8.043 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.225 to 8.243 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.425 to 8.443 mm
Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.625 to 8.643 mm
Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.825 to 8.843 mm
Exhaust valve stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.999 to 8.017 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.199 to 8.217 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.399 to 8.417 mm
Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.599 to 8.617 mm
Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.799 to 8.817 mm
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API
SG/CD or better
Oil capacity:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.75 litres (6.6 pints)
Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.25 litres (5.7 pints)
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion C102
Oil pump clearances:
Outer rotor to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.153 to 0.304 mm (0.006 to 0.012 in)
Inner rotor to outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.050 to 0.200 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)
Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.039 to 0.104 mm (0.002 to 0.004 in)
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 to 10265 to 75
Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 4730 to 35
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Strength class 8.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 6041 to 44
Strength class 10.9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 to 11574 to 85
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5033 to 37
Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5033 to 37
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 to 7047 to 52
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
Sump bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 to 20.7 to 1.5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 3 (after running engine for 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 to 159 to 11
Valve adjustment ball-pin locknuts:
7 mm thick nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5033 to 37
8 mm thick nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 5537 to 41
Cylinder head bolts:
Splined type bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5530 to 41
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 7037 to 52
Stage 3 (after 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 to 8354 to 61
Stage 4 (after running engine for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm) . . . . . .95 to 11570 to 85
Torx type bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4026 to 30
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 7552 to 55
Stage 3 (after 5 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten through a further 90¼
Camshaft cover bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 to 31.5 to 2
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 to 1710 to 13
Timing belt tensioner bolts:
Models with tensioner spring:
Spring bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Models without tensioner spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 to 148 to 10
Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
SOHC engines 2A¥3
2A

The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head
b)Removal of the camshaft after removal of
the cylinder head
c)Removal of the timing belt and sprockets
d)Removal of the sump
e)Removal of the oil pump
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods
g)Removal of the big-end bearings
h)Removal of the engine mountings
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel
j)Removal of crankshaft front and rear oil
seals
k)Removal of the auxiliary shaft
The following operations can only be carried
out after removing the engine from the
vehicle:
a)Removal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own, or together with the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission. Unless work
is to be carried out on the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission, it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should where possible be
removed on its own due to the additional
weight of the transmission. Note: The air conditioning system should
always be discharged by a Ford dealer or air
conditioning specialist.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models remove the air cleaner.
4On fuel injection models, disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet
hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from
the throttle body. Depress the locking clip on
the airflow meter wiring plug and disconnect
the plug (pulling on the plug, not the wiring)
then release the four securing clips and lift off
the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter and
air inlet hose.
5Remove the four retaining clips and
unscrew the two retaining screws, then
withdraw the upper section of the cooling fan
shroud from the radiator. Unclip and remove
the lower section of the shroud.
6Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan as
described in Chapter 3.
7Drain the cooling system.
8Disconnect the upper radiator hose and
where applicable, the expansion tank hose
from the thermostat housing.
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
coolant pump, and where applicable from the
inlet manifold and automatic choke. Unclip
the coolant hose from the bracket on the
exhaust manifold hot air shroud/heat shield,
or the camshaft cover, as applicable.
10On carburettor models, where applicable
disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine
management module.
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from the inlet manifold.
12On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
hoses from the carburettor and where
applicable the mechanical fuel pump and plug
the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol
spillage. Remember to take adequate fire
precautions.
13On fuel injection models, disconnect the
fuel feed line from the fuel pressure regulator,
then disconnect the fuel supply hose from thefuel rail. Position a suitable container beneath
the pressure regulator, then slowly loosen the
fuel feed union to relieve the pressure in the
fuel lines before disconnecting the union.
Take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends
of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
14Disconnect the throttle cable, and where
applicable remove its bracket.
15Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil.
16Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable depending on
model:
Alternator
Starter motor
Distributor
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Temperature gauge sender
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Automatic choke
Automatic choke pull-down solenoid
Carburettor anti-dieselling valve
Inlet manifold heater
Carburettor stepper motor
Fuel injection harness
Dipstick
17Where applicable, detach the power
steering pump from the cylinder block and
move it to one side.
18Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment. Note the location of the
earth strap on one of the bolts.
19Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
20Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
axle stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
21Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
22Remove the starter motor.
23Remove the exhaust downpipe.
24Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
25Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration).
26Remove the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
the engine and gearbox.
27Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against its stop which will hold the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
28Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing. Where applicable,
remove the clip securing the clutch cable to
the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note
the cable routing for use when refitting.
29Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using
a block of wood between the jack and the
gearbox to spread the load.
30Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
9Engine - removal leaving
manual gearbox in vehicle
8Method of engine removal
7Major operations requiring
engine removal
6Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2A¥8SOHC engines
9.25 Engine adapter plate bolt (A) and
engine-to-gearbox brace (B)
Warning: Vehicles equipped
with air conditioning:
Components of the air
conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken on the
engine, and it is not always possible to
unbolt and move them aside sufficiently,
within the limits of their flexible
connecting pipes. In such a case, the
system should be discharged by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist. The
refrigerant is harmless under normal
conditions, but in the presence of a naked
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.

Examination and renovation
11With the engine completely stripped,
clean all the components and examine them
for wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the relevant Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless it is known that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
12If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
13Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
Torx type cylinder head bolts must be
renewed because of the high stresses to
which they are subjected.
14Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.
Reassembly
15To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
bearings and other working surfaces
thoroughly with clean engine oil during
assembly.
16Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
17Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
18If they have been removed, new Torx type
cylinder head bolts and new flywheel bolts will
be required.
19After reassembling the main engine
components, refit the ancillary components
listed, referring to the appropriate Chapters
where necessary. Delicate items such as the
alternator and distributor may be left until after
the engine has been refitted if preferred.20If the crankcase ventilation oil separator
was removed, apply a liquid sealing agent to
its tube before pressing it into the cylinder
block.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. On models from mid-1985
(without a timing belt tensioner spring) the belt
tension should be checked using Ford special
tool No 21-113 after refitting. On models up to
mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), a suitable
splined socket will be required for the
tensioner spring bolt. A suitable puller may be
required to remove the sprockets.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan
c)Remove the coolant
pump/alternator/power-steering pump
drivebelt(s)
d)For improved access, remove the radiator
and disconnect the radiator top hose from
the thermostat housing
2Unscrew the three securing bolts and
washers and withdraw the timing cover. Note
the position of the fourth bolt above the
crankshaft pulley which can be left in place.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC
(top dead centre) mark on the crankshaft
pulley is aligned with the pointer on the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustration 16.2a of Chapter 5) and the pointer
on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head (see
illustration).
4On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner
spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner spring
bolt using the special splined socket (see
illustration), then loosen the tensioner pivot
bolt. If necessary for improved access,
remove the thermostat housing. Press the
tensioner against the spring tension and
tighten the pivot bolt to retain the tensioner in
the released position.5On models from mid-1985 (without a
tensioner spring), loosen the timing belt
tensioner bolts (see illustration)and move
the tensioner away from the belt. If necessary
to improve access, remove the thermostat
housing.
6Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
sprocket.
7Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever. Alternatively, if the
pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a
couple of bolts and use a lever between them
to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn
very far, or piston/valve contact may occur.
8Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
required on fuel-injection models.
9Remove the guide washer from in front of
the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
10If desired, the sprocket can be removed as
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 21.
11Remove the crankshaft sprocket, refitting
the bolt part way and using a puller if
necessary (see illustration).
12Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
19Timing belt and sprockets -
removal and refitting
2A¥12SOHC engines
19.3 TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket
backplate aligned with indentation on
cylinder head19.5 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) -
models from mid-1985
19.8 Using a puller to remove a pressed
type crankshaft pulley
19.4 Loosening the timing belt tensioner
spring bolt using a splined socket - models
up to mid-1985

Note: A new gasket should be used when
refitting the auxiliary shaft cover (see text).
Removal
1Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket.
2Remove the distributor.
3Remove the mechanical fuel pump and
operating pushrod (where applicable).
4Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the auxiliary shaft cover (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an
impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the
thrustplate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft
from the cylinder block (see illustrations).
6Cut the cover gasket along the top of the
crankshaft front oil seal housing and scrape
off the gasket.
Inspection
7Examine the shaft for wear and damage,
and renew it if necessary.
8If desired, the oil seal in the cover can be
renewed as follows.
9Support the cover on blocks of wood and
drive out the old oil seal. Drive the new seal
into place using a suitable metal tube or
socket (see illustrations). The sealing lip
must face towards the cylinder block. Smear
the sealing lip with clean engine oil before
installation.
Refitting
10Commence refitting by lubricating the
auxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil,
then insert the shaft into the cylinder block.
11Locate the thrustplate in the shaft groove,
then insert the crosshead screws and tighten
them with an impact screwdriver.
12Using a dial test indicator (if available), or
feelerblades, check that the auxiliary shaft
endfloat is within the limits given in the
Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
and re-check. If this does not bring the
endfloat within limits, the auxiliary shaft must
be renewed.
13Cut out the relevant section of a new
gasket, and locate it on the cylinder block,
then refit the auxiliary shaft cover and tighten
the securing bolts.
14Where applicable, refit the fuel pump.
15Refit the distributor.
16Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
timing belt.
Note: The manufacturers recommend that the
flywheel/driveplate securing bolts are renewed
after slackening. Suitable thread-locking agent
will be required to coat the bolt threads.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the
clutch or the automatic transmission, as
applicable.2Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
by jamming the ring gear teeth or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
cylinder block.
3Make alignment marks on the
flywheel/driveplate and the end of the
crankshaft, so that the flywheel/driveplate can
be refitted in its original position.
4Unscrew the securing bolts and withdraw
the flywheel/driveplate. Do not drop it, it is
very heavy. Note that on models with A4LD
type automatic transmission, the driveplate
may be secured with one or two reinforcing
plates depending on model.
5The engine adapter plate may now be
withdrawn from the dowels if required (see
illustration).
Inspection
6With the flywheel/driveplate removed, the
ring gear can be examined for wear and
damage.
7If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth it should be renewed. The old ring can
be removed from the flywheel/driveplate by
cutting a notch between two teeth with a
hacksaw and then splitting it with a cold
chisel. Wear eye protection when doing this.
8Fitting of a new ring gear requires heating
the ring to 400¼F (204¼C). This can be done by
polishing four equally spaced sections of the
gear, laying it on a heat resistant surface (such
as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with a blow
lamp or torch until the polished areas turn a
light yellow tinge. Do not overheat, or the hard
wearing properties will be lost. The gear has a
26Flywheel/driveplate - removal,
inspection and refitting
25Auxiliary shaft - removal,
inspection and refitting
2A¥18SOHC engines
25.4 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft cover
securing bolts and remove the cover25.5b Withdraw the auxiliary shaft
26.5 Withdrawing the engine adaptor plate25.9b Using a socket to fit a new auxiliary
shaft cover oil seal25.9a Driving out the auxiliary shaft cover
oil seal
25.5a Unscrew the auxiliary shaft
thrustplate securing screws and remove
the thrustplate

chamfered inner edge which should fit against
the shoulder on the flywheel. When hot
enough, place the gear in position quickly,
tapping it home if necessary, and let it cool
naturally without quenching in any way.
Refitting
9Commence refitting of the
flywheel/driveplate by refitting the engine
adapter plate to the dowels on the rear of the
cylinder block, where applicable.
10Ensure that the mating faces are clean,
then locate the flywheel/driveplate on the rear
of the crankshaft, aligning the previously
made marks (see illustration).
11Coat the threads of the securing bolts
with a liquid thread-locking agent, then insert
the bolts. Note that the manufacturers rec-
ommend the use of new bolts. Where
applicable refit the reinforcing plate(s) on
models with A4LD type automatics12Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from
turning as described in paragraph 2, then
tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque in a diagonal sequence (see
illustration).
13If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the
clutch or the automatic transmission, as
applicable.
Note: A new gasket will be required for
refitting if the old seal housing is removed
during this procedure.
1Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
sprocket.
2If an oil seal removal tool is available, the oil
seal can be removed at this stage. It may also
be possible to remove the oil seal by drillingthe outer face and using self-tapping screws
and a pair of grips.
3If the oil seal cannot be removed as
described in paragraph 2, remove the sump
and the auxiliary shaft sprocket, then unbolt
the oil seal housing and the auxiliary shaft
front cover. Recover the gasket. The oil seal
can then be driven out from the inside of the
housing (see illustrations).
4Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube or
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean
engine oil (see illustration).
5Where applicable, refit the oil seal housing
and the auxiliary shaft front cover, using a
new gasket, and tighten the bolts. Using a
straight edge, ensure that the bottom face of
the oil seal housing is aligned with the bottom
face of the cylinder block before finally
tightening the bolts (see illustrations). Refit
the auxiliary shaft sprocket and refit the sump.
6Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing
belt.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2Extract the oil seal using an oil seal removal
tool if available. It may also be possible to
remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face
and using self-tapping screws and a pair of
grips (see illustration).
28Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal27Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
SOHC engines 2A¥19
2A
27.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil
seal housing27.3b Driving the crankshaft front oil seal
from the housing
28.2 Crankshaft rear oil seal location
(arrowed)27.5b Checking the alignment of the
crankshaft front oil seal housing27.5a Crankshaft front oil seal
housing/auxiliary shaft cover gasket
located on front of cylinder block
27.4 Using a socket to fit a new crankshaft
front oil seal
26.12 Use a strap to prevent the flywheel
turning as its securing bolts are tightened26.10 Flywheel located on crankshaft

3Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube or
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean
engine oil.
4Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
Note: New gaskets and sealing strips will be
required for refitting, and sealing compound
will be required to coat the gasket faces.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 12.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.3Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
4Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Remove the starter motor, if necessary.
6Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember.
7Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate
shaft to the steering column, swivel the clamp
plate to one side, and disconnect the
intermediate shaft.
8Where applicable, detach the brake lines
from the crossmember.
9Support the engine using a hoist, or a bar
and blocks of wood resting on the suspension
turrets (see illustrations). Attach the lifting
tackle to the engine lifting brackets on the
cylinder head. If using a support bar, the
engine may be lifted slightly by using the baras a lever before resting it on the wooden
blocks.
10Support the front crossmember with a
trolley jack, then unscrew the bolts securing
the crossmember to the underbody (see
illustration).
11Lower the crossmember just enough to
give sufficient clearance to remove the sump
(see illustrations).
12Unscrew the twenty-three securing bolts
and withdraw the sump (see illustration). If
the sump is stuck, carefully tap it sideways to
free it. Do not prise between the mating faces.
Note that if the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep the engine upright until the
sump has been removed to prevent sludge
from entering the engine internals.
13Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
14Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
15Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the corners of the front and rear rubber
sealing strip locations in the cylinder block,
then press the sealing strips into the grooves
in the rear main bearing cap and the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations).
16Apply a little sealing compound to the
mating face of the cylinder block, then place
the sump gaskets in position, ensuring that
the end tabs locate correctly beneath the
rubber sealing strips (see illustration).
17Locate the sump on the gaskets and
loosely fit the securing bolts.
29Sump - removal and refitting
2A¥20SOHC engines
29.9a Make up wooden blocks to fit the
front suspension turrets and support a
metal bar . . .29.10 Unscrew the front crossmember
securing bolts
29.15b . . . then fit the rubber sealing strips29.15a Apply sealing compound . . .29.12 Unscrew the securing bolts and
withdraw the sump
29.11b . . . to give sufficient clearance for
sump removal29.11a Lower the suspension . . .
29.9b . . . which will support the engine

18Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence
(see illustration)noting the two stages given
in the Specifications. Tighten to the first stage
in a clockwise sequence starting at point ÒAÓ,
then tighten to the second stage in a
clockwise sequence starting at point ÒBÓ.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
19If the engine is in the vehicle proceed as
follows.
20Carefully lift the crossmember with the
jack, then refit the securing bolts and tighten
to the specified torque.
21Withdraw the jack, then lower the engine
and remove the lifting tackle.
22Where applicable, refit the brake lines to
the crossmember.
23Ensure that the front wheels are pointing
straight ahead and that the steering wheel is
centred, then reconnect the intermediate shaft
to the steering column. Secure the clamp
plate with the bolt.
24Refit the engine mounting bolts andtighten to the specified torque.
25Refit the starter motor.
26Lower the vehicle to the ground.
27Ensure that the sump drain plug is fitted,
then fill the engine with the correct quantity
and grade of oil. If necessary, renew the oil
filter before filling the engine with oil.
28Reconnect the battery negative lead.
29Start the engine and check for leaks
around the sump, and where applicable the oil
filter. When the engine is started, there may
be a delay in the extinguishing of the oil
pressure warning lamp while the system
pressurises.
30Run the engine for twenty minutes then
stop the engine and tighten the sump bolts to
the third stage given in the Specifications,
starting at the point ÒAÓ shown and working
clockwise.
31Check the oil level.
32Dispose of any old engine oil safely. Do
not pour it down a drain - this is illegal and
causes pollution.
Removal
1Remove the sump.
2Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the cylinder block (see
illustration).
3Using a suitable splined socket, unscrew
the two securing bolts and withdraw the oil
pump and strainer (see illustration).
4If desired, the hexagon-shaped driveshaft
can be withdrawn, but note which way roundit is fitted (see illustration). The driveshaft
engages with the lower end of the distributor
driveshaft.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
pump and cylinder block.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the oil
pump driveshaft into the cylinder block in its
previously noted position.
7Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand.
8Fit the pump, insert the securing bolts, and
tighten them to the specified torque.
9Fit the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
10Refit the sump.
Note: A new pressure relief valve plug and
pick-up tube gasket will be required for
reassembly.
Dismantling
1If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
described in this Section and then decide
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
action.
2Unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer.
Recover the gasket.
3Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the oil pump cover (see illustration).
31Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
30Oil pump - removal and
refitting
SOHC engines 2A¥21
2A
30.2 Unscrewing the oil pick-up tube
securing bolt
30.4 Withdrawing the oil pump driveshaft30.3 Unscrewing an oil pump securing bolt
29.18 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
refer to text29.16 Locate the sump gasket end tabs
beneath the rubber sealing strips
31.3 Exploded view of the oil pump
A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D Cover
E Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Pressure relief valve

4Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
insert them into the cylinder bore and use a
feelerblade to check that the end gaps are
within the specified limits (see illustration).
5Clean out the piston ring groove using a
piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Be
careful not to scratch the aluminium surface
of the pistons. Protect your fingers - piston
ring edges are sharp.
6Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of the
piston. The side ring gaps should be 25 mm (1.0
in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
tapered lower compression ring with the ÒTOPÓ
mark towards the top of the piston and the gap
150¼ from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
compression ring with the gap 150¼ on the
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum skin which must not be damaged.
Note also that the compression rings are made
of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket,
auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
flywheel/driveplate.
2Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing
and the auxiliary shaft front cover and remove
the gasket.4Remove the oil pump and pick-up tube.
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them (see
illustration).
6Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see
illustration). This will indicate whether or not
new thrustwashers are required.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells. If
the thrustwashers are to be re-used identify
them for location. Recover the sealing wedges
from either side of the rear bearing cap.
8Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the rear oil seal. Recover the
remaining thrustwashers (see illustration).
9Extract the bearing shells, keeping them
identified for location (see illustration).
Refitting
10Commence refitting as follows.
11Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag.
12Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft,
non-fluffy rag.
13If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
location in the crankcase.
14Identify each main bearing cap and place
in order. The number is cast on to the cap and
on intermediate caps an arrow is marked
which points towards the front of the engine.
15Wipe each cap bearing shell location with
a soft non-fluffy rag. 16Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
bearing cap.
17Apply a little grease to each side of the
centre main bearing so as to retain the
thrustwashers.
18Fit the upper halves of the thrustwashers
into their grooves either side of the main
bearing. The slots must face outwards.
19Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil and locate the rear oil seal
(with lip lubricated) on the rear of the
crankshaft.
20Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
crankcase.
21Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.
22Make sure that the mating faces are
clean, then apply sealant (Loctite 518 or
equivalent) to the areas on the rear main
bearing cap shown (see illustration).
23Fit the rear main bearing cap. Fit the two
securing bolts but as before do not tighten yet.
24Apply a little grease to either side of the
centre main bearing cap so as to retain the
thrustwashers. Fit the thrustwashers with the
tag located in the groove and the slots facing
outwards (see illustration).
25Fit the centre main bearing cap and the
two securing bolts, then refit the intermediate
main bearing caps. Make sure that the arrows
point towards the front of the engine.
26Lightly tighten all main bearing cap
securing bolts and then fully tighten in a
progressive manner to the specified torque
wrench setting.
27Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
34Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting
SOHC engines 2A¥23
2A
34.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat
34.22 Coat the arrowed areas of the rear
main bearing cap with sealant34.9 Extract each main bearing shell34.8 Removing a thrustwasher from the
centre main bearing
34.5 Main bearing cap identification marks.
The arrow points to the front of the engine
33.4 Checking a piston ring gap at the top
of the cylinder bore

components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
28Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
29Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully
located onto its seating. Coat the rear main
bearing cap sealing wedges with sealing
compound, then press them into position
using a blunt screwdriver with the rounded
red face towards the cap (see illustration).
30Refit the oil pump and pick-up tube.
31Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing
and the auxiliary shaft front cover using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts. Smear
the lip of the oil seal with clean engine oil
before fitting; and using a straight edge, ensure
that the bottom face of the oil seal housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder
block before finally tightening the bolts.
32Refit the pistons and connecting rods.
33Refit the flywheel/driveplate and the
auxiliary shaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket,
and timing belt.
1Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
3Note that undersize bearings may already
have been fitted, either in production or by a
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
take them along when buying new ones.
Production undersizes are also indicated by
paint marks as follows:
White line on main bearing cap - parent bore
0.40 mm oversize
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize4If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearings. These are usually supplied
together with the main and big-end bearings
on a reground crankshaft.
5An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
crankshaft is located in the main bearings
(and big-end bearings if necessary) and the
Plastigage filament located across the journal
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
filaments is checked against a scale which
shows the bearing running clearance. This
clearance is then compared with that given in
the Specifications (see illustration).
6If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal, extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy
grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.
1The cylinder bores must be examined for
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
examining the top of the bores; if these are
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
consumption rate accompanied by blue
smoke from the exhaust.
2If available, use an inside dial gauge to
measure the bore diameter just below the
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm
(0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
3Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained
for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that
the degree of wear does not justify a rebore.
However, any improvement brought about by
such rings may be short-lived.
4If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted
to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive
paper or a Òglaze busterÓ tool. The object is to
produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assistthe new rings to bed in.
5If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and
new piston rings are being fitted, either the
top piston ring must be stepped (Òridge
dodgerÓ pattern) or the ridge must be
removed with a ridge reamer. If the ridge is
left, the piston ring may hit it and break.
6Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensurethatthey are
unobstructed.
1Make a final check to ensure that
everything has been reconnected to the
engine and that no rags or tools have been left
in the engine bay.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little
longer than usual as fuel is pumped up to the
engine.
4Check that the oil pressure light goes out
when the engine starts.
5Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel or coolant. Also check
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
unions, where applicable. Some smoke and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
other components.
6Bring the engine to normal operating
temperature, then check the ignition timing
and the idle speed (where applicable) and
mixture.
7If splined type cylinder head bolts have
been used, stop the engine after it has been
running for 15 minutes, then remove the
crankshaft cover and tighten the cylinder
head bolts to the fourth stage given in the
Specifications, in the correct order.
8When the engine has completely cooled,
re-check the oil and coolant levels, and
check, and if necessary adjust, the valve
clearances.
9If new bearings, pistons etc have been
fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
37Initial start-up after overhaul or
major repair
36Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation35Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2A¥24SOHC engines
34.24 Fitting a thrustwasher to the centre
main bearing cap35.5 Checking the width of the filament
against the scale of the packet34.29 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear
main bearing cap