brake pads MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

.
1-2 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Chitton’s Total Car Care manual for the 199M10
Mitsubishi Mirage, Galant and Diamante is intended
to help you learn more about the inner workings of
your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the book will likely be referred to
the most, since that is where you will find information
for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal
with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Oper-
ating systems from engine through brakes are cov-
ered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer be-
comes mechanically involved. This book will not
explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the
simple reason that the expertise required and the in-
vestment in special tools make this task uneconomi-
cal. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to
help you change your own brake pads and shoes, re-
place spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that
can save you money, give you personal satisfaction
and help you avoid expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for
owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or
their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are
required.
Before removing any bolts, read through the entire
procedure. This will give you the overall view of what
tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing
more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop
on Monday morning because you were short one bolt
on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead.
Each operation should be approached logically and
all procedures thoroughly understood before attempt-
ing any work.
All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, re-
moval and installation procedures, and in some cases,
repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not con-
sidered practical, we tell you how to remove the part
and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement.
In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard”
repair of some components is just not practical.
Many procedures in this book require you to “label
and disconnect. . ” a group of lines, hoses or wires.
Don’t be lulled into thinking you can remember where
everything goes-you won’t. If you hook up vacuum
or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if
at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don’t need to know the official or engineering
name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape
on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to
assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the
lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters
or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in
gasolrne or other fluids; if a component is to be
washed or cleaned, use another method of identifica-
tion. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe
can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove
any tape or paper labels after assembly.
It’s necessary to mention the difference between
maintenance and repair Maintenance includes rou-
tine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear Maintenance
compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies
that something has broken or is not working. A need
for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Ex-
ample, draining and refilling the automatic transaxle
fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufac-
turer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this
can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, re-
quiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from breaking or wearing
out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS
CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanrc’s rules should be mentioned
here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or en-
gine is referred to, it is meant to specify the drivers
side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means
the passengers side. Second, screws and bolts are
removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
by turning clockwrse unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Con-
stantly be aware of the dangers involved in working
on an automobile and take the proper precautions.
See the informatron in this section regarding SER-
VICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY
NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
Pay attention to the instructions provided. There
are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or
adjustment. When taking something apart or putting
it together, performing steps in the wrong order usu-
ally just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire procedure before begin-
ning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
which the instructions say you should, even if you
can’t immedrately see a reason for it. When you’re
taking apart something that is very intricate, you
might want to draw a picture of how it looks when as-
sembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply
exploded views whenever possible. When making
adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One
adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is
more common for overtorquing to cause damage,
undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing
with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifi-
cations and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you
are using the right tool to perform the job, you will
probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight
that the tension you put on the wrench will be multi-
plied many times in actual force on what you are
tightening. A good example of how critical torque is
can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, es-
pecially where you are putting the plug into an alu-
minum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to
crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion
gases and consequent overheating of the plug and
engine parts. Too much torque can damage the
threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap.
There are many commercial products available for
ensuring that fasteners won’t come loose, even if they
are not torqued just right (a very common brand is
Loctite? If you’re worried
about getting something
together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to
avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of
these products might offer substantial insurance. Be-
fore choosing a threadlocking compound, read the
label on the package and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such
as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong
angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubri-
cate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark
plug, etc. with your fingers If you encounter resis-
tance, unscrew the part and start over again at a dif-
ferent angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that many
parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part
you’re threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a
wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple
of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resis-
tance, and the part has not seated fully, don’t force it.
Pull it back out to make sure it’s clean and threading
properly.
Be sure to take your time and be patient, and al-
ways plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to per-
form repairs and maintenance You may find main-
taining your car a satisfying and enjoyable
experience.
b See Figures 1 thru 15
Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment
it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It
would also be virtually impossible
to catalog every
tool that you would need to perform all of the opera-
tions in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of
tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more
of them at some time, The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering savings will
be far outweighed by frustration and
a good quality set of those tools that are used most mangled knuckles.
frequently Don’t be misled by the low cost of bargain Begin accumulating those tools that are used most
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better frequently: those associated with routine maintenance
quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the follow-
expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can ing tools:
tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying
l Wrenches/sockets and combination open
to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary end/box end wrenches in sizes from %-% in. or

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-47
ramps are also a handy and safe way to both raise l When the drive wheels are to remain on the
and support the vehicle. Be careful though, some ground, leave the vehicle in gear to help prevent it
ramps may be too steep to drive your vehicle onto
The following safety points cannot be overempha- from rolling.
without scraping the front bottom panels. Never sup-
sized:
l Always use jackstands to support the vehicle
port the vehicle on any suspension member (unless l Always block the opposite wheel or wheels to when you are working underneath. Place the stands
specifically instructed to do so by a repair manual) or
keep the vehicle from rolling off the jack. beneath the vehrcle’s jacking brackets Before climb-
by an underbody panel.
l When raising the front of the vehicle, firmly ap- ing underneath, rock the vehicle a bit to make sure it
ply the parking brake. is firmly supported.
SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS (MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE, GALANT, & MIRAGE)
VEHICLE MILEAGE INTERVAL (x1000)
7.5 15
22.5 30 37.5 45 52.5 60 67.5 75 62.5 90 97.5
J J
J 4 J J 4 4 4 J J
J 4
4
J J J J 4 TO BE
Ball loints &steering linkage
S/I J J J
seals
Dnve belt(s) S/I 4 4 J
Fvha,,rt cvctom $/I
J J J LmI,..“w. “,YL”,‘. Fuel hoses
+
Manual transaxle oil (Galant)
connectlon & fuel tank filler
R. Replace S/I - Sefwce or Inspect FREQUENT OPERATION MAINTENANCE (SEVERE SERVICE) II a vehicle is operated under any of the following conditions it is considered severe service:
- Extremely dusty areas.
- 50% or more of the vehicle operation is in 32% (WF) or higher temperatures, or constant opsralion in
temperatures below 0% (32°F).
- Prolonged idling (vehicle operation in stop and go traffic).
_ Frequent short running periods (engine does not warm to normal operating temfwatures).
- Police, taxi, delivery usage or trailer towing usage.
0118 011 filter change-change every 3CQO miles.
Disc brake pads - sewce or Inspect ever 6COO miles
AN hlter element _ setwe or inspect every 15,000 miles.
Automatic transaxle lluld 8 filter . replace every 15,COO m&s.
Rear drum brake Ikmngs & rear wheel cylinders (Galant & Mirage)
Spark plugs (except Dlamante wlplabnum tip) - replace every 15,COO miles.
Manual transaxle 011 (mcludlng transfer (Galant & Mirage). replace every 30,000 miles.

SUSPENSION AND STEERiNG 8-3
STUD
Fig. 5 View of the rotor and stud assembly
1. Raise and support the appropriate end of the
vehicle safely using jackstands, then remove the
wheel.
2. Remove the brake pads and caliper. Sup-
port the caliper aside using wire or a coat hanger.
For details, please refer to Section 9 of this man-
ual.
3 Remove the outer wheel bearing
and liff off
the rotor. For details on wheel bearing removal, in-
stallation and adjustment, please refer to Section 1 of
this manual.
4. Properly support the rotor using press bars,
then drive the stud out using an arbor press.
*If a press is not available, CAREFULLY
drive the old stud out using a blunt drift.
MAKE SURE the rotor is properly and evenly
supported or it may be damaged.
To install:
5. Clean the stud hole with a wire brush and
start the new stud with a hammer and drift pin. Do
not use any lubricant or thread sealer.
6. Finish installing the stud with the press.
*If a press is not available, start the lug
stud through the bore in the hub, then posi-
tion about 4 flat washers over the stud and
thread the lug nut. Hold the hub/rotor while
tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be
drawn into position. MAKE SURE THE STUD
IS FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut
and washers.
7. Install the rotor and adjust the wheel bear-
ings
8. Install the brake caliper and pads.
9. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands
and carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.
AXLE SHAFT
Im3goa
3g. 8 Exploded view of the drum, axle
lange and stud
PRESS RAM
PRESS
STOCK
Fig. 6 Pressing the stud from the rotor
tcca$Oi Fig. 7 Use a press to install the stud into the rotor
With Drum Brakes To install:
6. Position about 4 flat washers over the stud p See Figures 8, 9, and 10
1. Raise the vehicle and safely support it with
jackstands, then remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake drum.
3. If necessary to provide clearance, remove the
brake shoes, as outlined in Section 9 of this manual.
4. Using a large C-clamp and socket, press the
stud from the axle flange.
5. Coat the serrated part of the stud with liquid
soap and place it into the hole. and thread the lug nut. Hold the flange while tighten-
ing the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into
position. MAKE SURE THE STUD IS FULLY SEATED,
then remove the lug nut and washers.
7. If applicable, install the brake shoes.
8. Install the brake drum.
9. Install the wheel. then remove the iackstands
and carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.
C-FRAME AND
CLAMP ASSEMBLY
Fig. 9 Use a C-clamp and socket to press
out the stud
NUT FLAT WASHERS
Fig. 10 Force the stud onto the axle flange
using washers and a lug nut

SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-13
W-118 Nm*
71-W ft.lbs: 83Nm

69-78 Nm
Compression lower arm assembly
removal steps
1. Connection for compression lower
arm ball joint and knuckle
2. Comoression lower arm mouniina Lateral lower tmn assembly removal
steps
4. stay
bon ’ 3. Compression lower arm assembly 6. CMlnection for lateral lower arm
ball joint and knuckle
7. lateral lower arm mounting boll
andnllt
0. hleral lower am7 assembly
CWtlOtl
l : Indicates parts which should be temporarily tightened,
and then fully tightened with the vehicle on the ground
in the unladen condition
7923PGB8 Fig. 40 Exploded view of the lower control arms-Galant
tion and replace as required. 8.
9. Inspect all bushings for wear and deteriora-
Check the sway bar for damage, and replace
as required.
To install: 10. Install the sway bar into the vehicle.
11. Install the sway bar brackets on the vehicle,
following any side locating markings on the brackets.
Temporarily tighten the sway bar bracket. Align the
bushing end with the marked part of the sway bar and
then fully tighten the sway bar bracket.
12. If equipped with the pillow-ball type mount-
ing, install the sway bar links and link mounting nuts.
Using a wrench, secure the ball studs at both ends of
the sway bar link while tightening the mounting nuts.
Tighten the nuts on the sway bar bolt so that the dis-
tance of bolt protrusion above the top of the nut is
0.63-0.70 in. (1&18mm).
13. Install the front exhaust pipe with new gasket
in place. Tighten new self-locking nuts to 29 ft. Ibs.
(40 Nm). and the sway bar bracket and bushing.
6. 5. Remove the sway bar bracket installation bolt
Disconnect the sway bar coupling at the right
lower control arm. Pull out the left side sway bar
edge, pulling it out between the driveshaft and the
lower arm. Pull out the right side bar below the lower
arm.
To install:
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
A WD VEHICLE
I
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the front exhaust pipe.
3. Remove the center gusset and transfer as-
sembly.
4. Using a wrench to secure the ball studs at
both ends of the sway bar link, remove the sway bar
link mounting nuts. Remove the sway bar link. 11. Connect the negative battery cable.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
7. Install the bar into the vehicle in the same Diamante, Mirage, 1996-93 Galant, and manner as removal. 1999-00 Galant 8. Temporarily tighten the sway bar bracket.
Align the bushing end with the marked part of the
sway bar and then fully tighten the stabilizer bar
bracket.
9. Install and tighten the sway bar bracket bolt.
10. Install the sway bar links and link mounting
nuts Using a wrench, secure the ball studs at both
ends of the sway bar link while tightening the mount-
ing nuts. Tighten the nuts on the sway bar bolt so
that the distance of bolt protrusion above the top of
the nut is 0.63 to 0.70 in. (16 to 18mm).
11. Install the transfer assembly and gusset.
12. Install the left crossmember. Tighten the rear
mounting bolts to 58 ft Ibs. (80 Nm) and the front
mounting bolts to 72 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm). ) See Figures 45, 46, and 47
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely. Remove
the halfshaft nut.
3. If equipped with ABS, remove the front wheel
speed sensor
1994-90 Galant
4. If equipped with Active Electronic Control
Suspension (Active-ECS), disconnect the height sen-.
sor from the lower control arm.
5. Remove the caliper assembly and brake pads.
Suspend the caliper with a wire
6. Using a suitable ball joint separator tool, dis-
connect the ball joint and tie rod end from the steer-
ing knuckle.
7. Remove the halfshaft from the hub.
8. Unbolt the lower end of the strut and remove
the hub and steering knuckle assembly from the vehi-
cle.
9 Remove the hub, bearings and races as fol-
lows.
# See Figures 42, 43, and 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle 3. Disconnect the sway bar links by removing
the self-locking nuts.
4. Remove the sway bar mounting brackets and
bushings.
5. Remove the bar from the vehicle.
6. Inspect all components for wear or damage,
and replace parts as needed.
To install: 7. Install the sway bar into the vehicle.
8. Loosely install the sway bar brackets on the
vehicle.
9. Align the side locating markings on the sway
bar, so that the marking on ihe bar, extends approxi-
mately 0.40 inches (1Omm) from the Inner edge of
the mounting bracket, on both sides.
10. With the sway bar properly aligned, tighten
the mounting bracket bolts to 28 ft. Ibs. (39 Nm).
11. Connect the sway links to the damper fork
and the sway bar. Tighten the locking nuts to 28 ft.
Ibs (39 Nm).
12. Lower the vehicle and connect the negative
battery cable.
Diamante
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
3. Remove the front exhaust pipe and engine
undercover.
4. Remove the left and right frame members.
5. Remove the sway bar link.
6. Remove the sway bar brackets and remove
the sway bar from the vehicle.
To install: 7. Note that the bar brackets are marked left and
right. Lubricate all rubber parts and install the bush-
ings, the sway bar and brackets.
8. Install the sway bar link.
9. Install the frame members.
10. Install the engine undercover and exhaust
pipe.

SUSPENSION AND STEERING 845
144-188 ft. Ibs. (200-260 Nm). Rotate the hub ing knuckle and install a new nut. Tighten to 52 ft. 3. Remove the cotter pin, halfshaft nut and
to seat the bearing.
Ibs. (72 Nm). washer.
e. Mount the knuckle assembly in a vise.
12. Install the halfshaft into the hub/knuckle as- 4. If equipped with ABS, remove the Vehicle
Check the hub assembly turning torque and end- sembly.
Speed Sensor (VSS).
play as follows: 13. Install the two front strut lower mounting bolts
5. Remove the caliper and brake pads. Support
l Using a torque wrench and socket
and tighten to 80-94 ft. Ibs. (110-130 Nm) on Mirage
the caliper out of the way using wire.
MB990998 or equivalent, turn the hub in the or 65-76 ft. Ibs. (90-105 Nm) on Diamante models. 6. Remove the brake rotor from the hub assembly.
knuckle assembly. Note the reading on the torque
14. Install the tie rod end and tighten the nut to 7. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the
wrench and compare to the desired reading of 16
25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm) for Mirage and 21 ft. Ibs. (29 Nm) steering knuckle and pull the knuckle outward.
inch Ibs. (1.8 Nm) or less. This is known as the ‘on Diamante models
8. From the back of the knuckle, remove the
breakaway torque.
15. Install the brake disc and caliper assembly. ‘four bolts securing the hub to the knuckle.
l Check for roughness when turning the
16. If equipped with Active-ECS, connect the
9. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from
bearing.
height sensor and tighten the mounting bolt to 15 ft.
the knuckle.
0 Mount a dial indicator on the hub so the
Ibs. (20 Nm).
pointer contacts the machined surface on the hub.
17. Install the front speed sensor, if removed.
*The hub assembly is not serviceable and
l Check the end-play.
18. Install the washer and new locknut to the end should not be disassembled.
l Compare the reading to the limit of 0.002
in. (0.05mm). of the halfshaft. Tighten the locknut snugly to To install: 144-188 ft. Ibs. (200-260 Nm).
f. If the starting torque or the hub end-play
19. Install the tire and wheel assembly onto the 10. Install the hub to the steering knuckle and
are not within specifications while the nut is tighten the mounting bolts to 65 ft. Ibs. (88 Nm).
vehicle.
11.
tightened to 144-188 ft. Ibs. (200-260 Nm), the
Lower the vehicle to the ground. Connect the upper ball joint to the steering
20.
bearing, hub or knuckle have probably not been ‘knuckle and tighten the self-locking nut to 21 ft. Ibs.
(28 Nm).
installed correctly. Repeat the disassembly and 1994-98 Galant 12.
‘assembly procedure and recheck starting torque Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten the
and end-play. nut to 145-188 ft. Ibs. (200-260 Nm).
+ See Figures 48 thru 58 13. Position the rotor on the hub.
11. Install the hub and knuckle assembly onto the
vehicle. Install the lower ball joint stud into the steer- 1. Raise the vehicle and support safely. 14. Install the caliper holder and the brake
2. Remove the appropriate wheel assembly. ” caliper.
lshaRBmV * “57pa3~ ~Fig.4g~..thenloosehtheaxlattut~~;.~ Fig. 48 Remove the cotter pm from the axle Fig. 50 Using a suitable punch and ham-
mer, gently tap the halfshaft out of the
the vehicle is still on the ground

SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-27
7923PGC7 Fig. 74 Use a press to remove the speed sensor rotor from the hub-Galant
dhk4w with drum,brqb
7923PGCE Fig. 75 Exploded view of the rear hub/bearing assembly and related components=Galant
3. Remove the appropriate wheel assembly. *The hub assembly is not serviceable and 4. If equipped with ABS, remove the vehicle should not be disassembled. speed sensor.
5. Remove the caliper and brake pads, Support
the caliper out of the way using wire.
6. Remove the brake rotor from the hub assem-
hl

10. If replacing the hub, use special socket
MB991248 and a press to remove the wheel sensor
rotor from the hub.
To install: WY. 7. Remove the parking brake shoes as follows:
a. Remove the upper shoe to anchor springs.
b. Remove the lower shoe to shoe spring.
c. Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs.
d. Disconnect the parking brake cable from
the actuating lever.
8. From the back of the knuckle, remove the
four bolts securing the hub to the knuckle.
9. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from
the knuckle. Il. Press the wheel sensor rotor onto the hub.
12. Install the hub to the knuckle and tighten the
mounting bolts to 54-65 ft. tbs. (74-88 Nm).
13. Install the parking brake shoes,
14. Position the rotor on the hub. Install a couple
of lug nuts and lightly tighten to hold rotor on hub.
15. Install the caliper holder and place brake pads
in holder. Slide caliper over brake pads and install
guide pins. Once caliper is secured, lug nuts can be
removed. 16. If equipped with ABS, install the vehicle
speed sensor.
17. Install the wheel assembly and lower the ve-
hicle.
Diamante
*The hub assembly is not repairable; if de-
fective, replacement is the only option. If the
hub is removed for any reason it must be re-
placed.
1. Raise and support vehicle safely.
2. Remove the both of the rear wheels.
3. Remove the caliper and the brake disc. Sup-
port the caliper with wire to prevent stress to the /
brake hose.
4. If equipped with ABS, remove the bolt hold-
ing the speed sensor to the trailing arm and remove
the sensor.
*The speed sensor has a pole piece project-
ing from it. This exposed tip must be pro-
tected from impact or scratches. Do not al-
low the pole piece to contact the toothed
wheel during removal or installation.
5. Remove the grease cap, self-locking nut and
tongued washer.
*Do not use an air gun to remove the hub
locknut.
6. Remove the rear hub assembly from the spin-
dle.
7. Remove the bolts that secure the ABS sensor
ring to the hub and remove the ring from the hub.
To install: 8. Secure the sensor ring to the hub assembly
and tighten the mounting bolts.
9. Install the hub assembly, tongued washer
and a new self-locking nut. Tighten the nut to 166 ft.
Ibs. (230 Nm), align with the indentation in the spin-
dle, and crimp.
IO. Using a rope around the hub bolts and a
spring balance, measure the resistance necessary to
rotate the hub. If the resistance exceeds 7 ft. Ibs. (IO
Nm), loosen and retighten the locknut. If the resis-
tance still exceeds the specification, the hub must be
replaced.
11. Using a dial indicator, measure the hub end-
play. The endplay should be 0.002 inches (0.05mm)
or less.
12. Install the brake rotor and caliper assembly.
13. Install the speed sensor to the knuckle.
*Route the speed sensor cable correctly.
Improper installation may cause cable dam-
age and system failure. Use the white stripe
on the outer insulation to keep the sensor
harness properly positioned.
14. Use a brass or other non-magnetic feeler
gauge to check the air gap between the tip of the pole
piece and the toothed wheel. Correct gap is
0.008-0.028 in (0.2-0.7mm). Tighten the sensor
bracket nut with the sensor located so the gap is the
same at several points on the toothed wheel. If the
gap is incorrect, it is likely that the toothed wheel is
worn or improperly installed.
15. Bleed the brake system and install the rear
wheels.

BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM 9-2
BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES 9-2
DISC BRAKES 9-2
DRUM BRAKES 9-2
POWERBOOSTERS 9-2
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH 9-3
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-3
MASTER CYLINDER 9-3
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-3
' BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENTS 9-4
POWER BRAKEBOOSTER 9-5
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-5
PROPORTIONING VALVE 9-6
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-6
BRAKEHOSESAND LINES 9-6
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-6
BLEEDING BRAKESYSTEM 9-7
DISC BRAKES 9-8
BRAKE PADS 9-8
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-8
INSPECTION 9-11
BRAKE CALIPER 9-11
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-11
OVERHAUL 9-12
BRAKE DISC (ROTOR) 9-13
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-13
INSPECTION 9-14
DRUM BRAKES 9-15
BRAKEDRUMS 9-16
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-16
INSPECilON 9-16
BRAKESHOES 9-16
INSPECTION 9-16
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-17
ADJUSTMENTS 9-18
WHEELCYLINDERS 9-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-19
. OVERHAUL 9-19
PARKING BRAKE 9-20
CABLE(S) 9-20
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-20
ADJUSTMENT 9-22
BRAKESHOES 9-23
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-23
ADJUSTMENT 9-24
ANTI-LOCKBRAKE SYSTEM 9-24
GENERAL INFORMATION 9-24
PRECAUTIONS 9-24
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING 9-24
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT 9-25
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-25
ANTI-LOCK CONTROL UNIT 9-27
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-27
SPEED SENSORS 9-28
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-28
b G-SENSOR 9-29
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-29
' TONE (EXCITER) RING 9-29
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-29
BLEEDINGTHEABSSYSTEM 9-30 COMPONENTLOCATIONS
DRUM BRAKECOMPONENTS 9-15
SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
ABS DIAGNOSTICTROUBLE CODES 9-25
BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS 9-31

9-2 BRAKES
Hydraulic systems are used to actuate the brakes
of all modern automobiles. The system transports the
power required to force the frictional surfaces of the
braking system together from the pedal to the indi-
vidual brake units at each wheel. A hydraulic system
is used for two reasons.
First, fluid under pressure can be carried to all
parts of an automobile by small pipes and flexible
hoses without taking up a significant amount of room
or posing routing problems.
Second, a great mechanical advantage can be
given to the brake pedal end of the system, and the
foot pressure required to actuate the brakes can be
reduced by making the surface area of the master
cylinder pistons smaller than that of any of the pis-
tons in the wheel cylinders or calipers.
The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir
along with a double cylinder and piston assembly.
Double type master cylinders are designed to sepa-
rate the front and rear braking systems hydraulically
in case of a leak. The master cylinder converts me-
chanical motion from the pedal into hydraulic pres-
sure within the lines. This pressure is translated back
into mechanical motion at the wheels by either the
wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or the caliper (disc
brakes).
Steel lines carry the brake fluid to a point on the
vehicle’s frame near each of the vehicle’s wheels. The
fluid is then carried to the calipers and wheel cylin-
ders by flexible tubes in order to allow for suspen-
sion and steering movements.
In drum brake systems, each wheel cylinder con-
tains two pistons, one at either end, which push out-
ward in opposite directions and force the brake shoe
into contact with the drum.
In disc brake systems, the cylinders are part of the
calipers. At least one cylinder in each caliper is used
to force the brake pads against the disc.
All pistons employ some type of seal, usually
made of rubber, to minimize fluid leakage. A rubber
dust boot seals the outer end of the cylinder against
dust and dirt. The boot fits around the outer end of
the piston on disc brake calipers, and around the
brake actuating rod on wheel cylinders.
The hydraulic system operates as follows: When at
rest, the entire system, from the piston(s) in the mas-
ter cylinder to those in the wheel cylinders or
calipers, is full of brake fluid. Upon application of the
brake pedal, fluid trapped in front of the master cylin-
der piston(s) is forced through the lines to the wheel
cylinders. Here, it forces the pistons outward, in the
case of drum brakes, and inward toward the disc, in
the case of disc brakes. The motion of the pistons is
opposed by return springs mounted outside the
cylinders in drum brakes, and by spring seals, in disc
brakes.
Upon release of the brake pedal, a spring located
inside the master cylinder immediately returns the
master cylinder pistons to the normal position. The
pistons contain check valves and the master cylinder
I
has compensating ports drilled in it. These are un-
covered as the pistons reach their normal position.
The piston check valves allow fluid to flow toward the
wheel cylinders or calipers as the pistons withdraw.
Then, as the return springs force the brake pads or
shoes into the released position, the excess fluid
reservoir through the compensating ports. It is during the time the pedal is in the released position that any
fluid that has leaked out of the system will be re-
placed through the compensating ports.
Dual circuit master cylinders employ two pistons,
located one behind the other, in the same cylinder.
The primary piston is actuated directly by mechanical
linkage from the brake pedal through the power
booster. The secondary piston is actuated by fluid
trapped between the two pistons. If a leak develops in
front of the secondary piston, it moves forward until it
bottoms against the front of the master cylinder, and
the fluid trapped between the pistons will operate the
rear brakes. If the rear brakes develop a leak, the pri-
mary piston will move forward until direct contact
with the secondary piston takes place, and it will
force the secondary piston to actuate the front brakes.
In either case, the brake pedal moves farther when the
brakes are applied, and less braking power is avail-
able.
All dual circuit systems use a switch to warn the
driver when only half of the brake system is opera-
tional. This switch is usually located in a valve body
which is mounted on the firewall or the frame below
the master cylinder. A hydraulic piston receives pres-
sure from both circuits, each circuits pressure being
applied to one end of the piston. When the pressures
are in balance, the piston remains stationary. When
one circuit has a leak, however, the greater pressure
in that circuit during application of the brakes will
push the piston to one side, closing the switch and
activating the brake warning light.
In disc brake systems, this valve body also con-
tains a metering valve and, in some cases, a propor-
tioning valve. The metering valve keeps pressure
from traveling to the disc brakes on the front wheels
until the brake shoes on the rear wheels have con-
tacted the drums, ensuring that the front brakes will
never be used alone. The proportioning valve con-
trols the pressure to the rear brakes to lessen the
chance of rear wheel lock-up during very hard brak-
ing.
Warning lights may be tested by depressing the
brake pedal and holding it while opening one of the
wheel cylinder bleeder screws. If this does not cause
the light to go on, substitute a new lamp, make conti-
nuity checks, and, finally, replace the switch as nec-
essary.
The hydraulic system may
be checked for leaks by applying pressure to the pedal gradually and steadily.
If the pedal sinks very slowly to the floor, the system
has a leak. This is not to be confused with a springy
or spongy feel due to the compression of air within
the lines. If the system leaks, there will be a gradual
change in the position of the pedal with a constant
pressure.
Check for leaks along all lines and at wheel cylin-
ders. If no external leaks are apparent, the problem is
inside the master cylinder,
DISC BRAKES
Instead of the traditional expanding brakes that
press outward against a circular drum, disc brake
systems utilize a disc (rotor) with brake pads posi-
tioned on either side of it. An easily-seen analogy is
the hand brake arrangement on a bicycle. The pads
squeeze onto the rim of the bike wheel, slowing its
motion. Automobile disc brakes use the identical principle but apply the braking effort to a separate
disc instead of the wheel.
The disc (rotor) is a casting, usually equipped with
cooling fins between the two braking surfaces. This
enables air to circulate between the braking surfaces
making them less sensitive to heat buildup and more
resistant to fade. Dirt and water do not drastically af-
fect braking action since contaminants are thrown off
by the centrifugal action of the rotor or scraped off
the by the pads. Also, the equal clamping action of
the two brake pads tends to ensure uniform, straight
line stops. Disc brakes are inherently self-adjusting.
There are three general types of disc brake:
1. A fixed caliper.
2. A floating caliper.
3. A sliding caliper.
The fixed caliper design uses two pistons
mounted on either side of the rotor (in each side of
the caliper). The caliper is mounted rigidly and does
not move.
The sliding and floating designs are quite similar.
In fact, these two types are often lumped together. In
both designs, the pad on the inside of the rotor is
moved into contact with the rotor by hydraulic force.
The caliper, which is not held in a fixed position,
moves slightly, bringing the outside pad into contact
with the rotor. There are various methods of attaching
floating calipers. Some pivot at the bottom or top,
and some slide on mounting bolts. In any event, the
end result is the same.
DRUM BRAKES
Drum brakes employ two brake shoes mounted on
a stationary backing plate. These shoes are posi-
tioned inside a circular drum which rotates with the
wheel assembly. The shoes are held in place by
springs. This allows them to slide toward the drums
(when they are applied) while keeping the linings and
drums in alignment. The shoes are actuated by a
wheel cylinder which is mounted at the top of the
backing plate. When the brakes are applied, hydraulic
pressure forces the wheel cylinder’s actuating links
outward. Since these links bear directly against the
top of the brake shoes, the tops of the shoes are then
forced against the inner side of the drum. This action
forces the bottoms of the two shoes to contact the
brake drum by rotating the entire assembly slightly
(known as servo action). When pressure within the
wheel cylinder is relaxed, return springs pull the
shoes back away from the drum.
Most modern drum brakes are designed to self-
adjust themselves during application when the vehi-
cle is moving in reverse. This motion causes both
shoes to rotate very slightly with the drum, rocking
an adjusting lever, thereby causing rotation of the ad-
justing screw. Some drum brake systems are de-
signed to self-adjust during application whenever the
brakes are applied. This on-board adjustment system
reduces the need for maintenance adjustments and
keeps both the brake function and pedal feel satisfac-
tory.
POWER BOOSTERS
Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum as-
sisted power brake system to multiply the braking
force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always
available when the engine is operating, the system is

9-8 BRAKES
2
3 93159g27 Fig. 28 Brake bleeding sequence-Mirage
and Diamante
1
2, Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The
bleeder screws are located on the back of the brake
backing plate (drum brakes) and on the top of the
brake calipers (disc
brakes). 3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder
screw and place the other end of the hose in a glass
jar, submerged in brake fluid.
4. Open the bleeder screw l/r3/4 turn. Have an
assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and
poiygiycois. Avoid contact with the eyes and
wash your hands thoroughly after handling
brake fluid. if you do get brake fluid in your
eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running wa-
ter for 15 minutes. if eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally,
IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
5. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant
to allow the brake pedal to return slowly. Continue
this process to purge all air from the system.
6. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of
the bleeder hose, close the bleeder screw and remove
the hose. Tighten the bleeder screw to the proper
torque:
7. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add
fluid accordingly. Do this after bleeding each wheel,
8. Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining
3 wheels, ending with the one closet to the master
cylinder.
9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper
level.
# See Figures 29, 30, 31, and 32
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
.
I. C”lDE PIN 8 mm
2 LdcK Pm 9 PlSToN SEAL
3 WSHINO 10 WPER BODY
4 CALIPER 9lJPwRT ,pM. cue
sH’YlcYaT , 11 PmE~~yvEm INLKATclR
: EiT Rim 12 PAD As&&w
7 PWON mm ;: w&E” SHlM ,
93159g28 Fig. 29 Front dual piston caliper exploded
view-Diamante ‘a
L
1. BRAKE HOSE CONNECTOR BOLT
2. GASKET
’ 3. FRONT BRAKE ASSEMBLY
4. BRAKE DISC
93159g; Fig. 31 Front brake system component iden
tification-1996-00 Gaiant !9
I- 93159g23
Fig. 30 Rear disc brake system component
identification-1994-95 Galant
3 Rear brake ar?.embiy
4 Rear Drake dnc
5 Hubcap
6 Wheel baanng tit
7 Flew hub assemblv
8 chlstshteki
9 DISC brake adapter
93159glC
Fig. 32 Rear disc brake exploded view-
1996-92 Mirage Older brake pads or shoes may contain as-
bestos, which has been determined to be
cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake
surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling
any dust from any brake surface! When
cieanlng brake surfaces, use a commercially
available brake cleaning fluid.
Mirage and 1990-93 Gaiant *
FRONT
@ See Figure 33
1. Remove some of the brake fluid from the
master cylinder reservoir. The reservoir should be no
more than half full. When the pistons are pressed into
the calipers, excess fluid will flow up into the reser-
voir.
I
1. Cons for the brake hose
3 2. Gasket
3. Front brake assembly
4. Brake disc
93159911
Fig. 33 Front disc brake components-Mi-
rage

2. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
3. Remove the appropriate tire and wheel as-
semblies. 11. Road test the vehicle and check brakes for
proper operation. *Be careful that the piston boot does not be-
come caught when lowering the caliper onto
+ha n,.nnnr) lh nnt t&at thm hr&a hnra rlnr-
4. Remove the calmer auide and lock Dins and
REAR
lift the caliper assembly’from the caliper support. Tie
the caliper
out of the way using wire. 00 not allow the
caliper to hang by the brake line.
*On some vehicles, the caliper can be
flipped up by leaving the upper pin in place
and usinu it as a oivot ooint.
---- sa - . -.
5. Remove the brake pads, spring clip and
cl7knr T&n nn+n ,-A nrdtinninntn sir-4 inc+alhtinn
u See Figures 32 and 34 13. Lubricate, install and tighten the lower pin.
*
14. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Lower
1, Remove some of the brake fluid from the the vehicle.
master cylinder reservoir. The reservoir should be no 15. Test the brakes for proper operation:
more than half full. When the p istons are depressed
into the calioers. excess fluid

3 111,113. ,(lhC ,,“LC “I p”3”‘““H’y I” a,u IIIaLcuIaLt”II. 6. Install two wheel lug nuts onto the studs and
:
lightly tighten. This is done to hold the disc on the
hub.
To install:
7. Use a large C-clamp to compress piston(s)
back into caliper bore. On two piston calipers both
pistons will have to be retracted together.
8. Lubricate slide points and install the brake
pads, shims and spring clip ont- +‘- --“n-* n**nnnA reservoir. /ill flow up into the
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
s tire and wheel as- 3. Remove the appropriate
semblies.
4. Loosen the parking bra
from inside the vehicle.
5. Disconnect the parking brake cable end in-
stalled to the rear brake caliper assembly.
6. Remove the caliper lower pin and swing the
caliper assembly upwards. Tie the caliper out of the
way using wire. Dlamante and 1994-00 Galant
k See Figures 29,30,31,35 thru 47
Brake pads and shoes contain asbestos,
which has been determined to be a cancer
causing agent. Never clean the brake sur-
faces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling
any dust from brake surfaces! When cleaning
brakes. use commerciallv avallable brake Ike cable adjustment
Install the caliper over the brake ,..uuG. 7. Remove the outer shim, brake pads and
.
ie caliper support. Take note of soring clips from tl
nositibning of eact
8
IndalI twn cleaning flutds. -
*Be careful that the piston boot does not be-
come caught when lowering the caliper onto
the support. Do not twist the brake hose dur-
ing caliper installation. I to aid in installation.
“. llluLull L..V of the wheel lug nuts onto the
studs and lightly tighten. This is done to hold the
disc on the hub.
Cl Thrm-l the nictnn into thP r!alinar hnre rlnrk-
*Unlike most rear disc brake designs, this
system does not incorporate the parking
brake system, into the rear brake caliper,
therefore, the rear brake system is serviced
9. Lubricate and install the caliper guide and
lock pins in their original positions. Tighten the
: caliper guide and locking pins.
10. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Lower
the vehicle.
t *Pump the brake pedal several times, until
i
firm, before attempting to move the vehicle. V. ,,,lV”” ,,,V ~,“L”,’ III1” .IIV “..*.prv, ““I., “.“-a.
wise using disc brake driver tool MB9f52 or its
equivalent.
To install:
10. Lubricate all sliding and pivot points.
11. Install the brake pads, shims and spring clip
to the caliper support.
12. Install the caliper over ”
’ -’ ---I~ me oraxe paas. the same as the front system.
1. Remove some of the brake fluid from the
master cylinder reservoir. The reservoir should be no
more than r/a full. When the pistons are depressed
into the calipers, excess fluid will flow up into the
reservoir.
93159#2 Fig. 34 Retracting brake caliper piston and Fig. 35 Use mechanic’s wire or a similar
aligning pad to piston-hlirage device to support the caliper out of the way Fig. 36 Remove the inner brake pad and
. . .
93159p33 Fig, 37 . . . also the outer pad from the
caliper Fig. 39 The caliper piston can be depressed
Fig. 38 Remove the spring clips and replace
if necessary using a special tool, such as this one from
Lisle@ or . . .