ECO mode CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis User Guide
Page 266 of 659
SECTION 6
ENGINE
CONTENTS
OF
THIS SECTION
Page
Engine Tune Up
6-1
Torque Sequence
Engine Mechanical
(In
Line)
6-12
Special Tools
. .
Engine Mechanical (V8)
6-24
Page
6-39
6-40
ENGINE TUNE UP
INDEX
Page
General Description
. 6-1
Mechanical Checks and Adjustments
6-1
Spark Plug Removal
6-1
Test Compression
6-1
Service and Install Spark Plugs
6-2
Service Ignition System
6-3
Service Battery
and
Battery Cables
6-5
Service Delcotron
and
Regulator
6-5
Service
Fan
Belt
6-5
Service Manifold Heat Valve
6-5
Tighten Manifold
6-5
Service Fuel Lines
and
Fuel Filter ..........
6-6
Service Cooling System
6-6
Check and Adjust Accelerator Linkage
6-6
Service Crankcase Ventilation
6-6
Service
Air
Injection Reactor System
6-6
Choke Adjustment
6-7
Page
Instrument Cheek-Out
6-7
Instrument Hook-Up.
. 6*7
Check and Adjust Dwell
6-7
Check Dwell Variation
6-7
Check and Adjust Timing
6-8
Adjust Idle Speed
and
Mixture
6-8
Additional Checks and Adjustments
. 6-8
Testing Crankcase Ventilation Valve
. 6-8
Testing Cranking Voltage
6-8
Cylinder Balance Test
. 6-8
Battery
6-8
Ignition
; 6-8
Carburetor
6-11
Fuel Pump
6-11
Cooling System
. 6-11
Cylinder Head Torque and Valve Adjustment
..... 6-11
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The engine tune up
is
important
to the
modern automo-
tive engine with
its
vastly improved power and perform-
ance.
The
higher compression ratios, improved electri-
cal systems
and
other advances
in
design, make today1 s
engines more sensitive
and
have
a
decided effect
on
power, performance and fuel consumption.
It
is
seldom advisable
to
attempt
a
tune up
by
correc-
tion
of one or two
items only. Time will normally
be
saved
and
more lasting results assured
if the
technician
will follow
a
definite
and
thorough procedure
of
analysis
and correction
of all
items affecting power, performance
and economy.
The tune
up
will
be
performed
in
two parts.
The
first
part will consist
of
visual and mechanical checks and
ad-
justments;
the
second part will consist
of
an instrument
checkout that
can be
performed with
any one of the
units
of service equipment available
for
this purpose. Always
follow
the
instructions provided
by the
manufacturer
of
the particular equipment
to be
used.
Additional checks
and
adjustments
are
included
in the
latter part
of
this section
for use as
required. Many
of
these operations
can be
used
to
isolate and correct trou-
ble located during
the
tune up. Where conditions
are
UB-
covered requiring major corrective action, refer
to the
appropriate section
of
this manual
or the
Passenger
Chassis Overhaul Manual
for
detailed service informa-
tion.
Typical illustrations
and
procedures
are
used except
where specific illustrations
or
procedures
are
necessary
to clarify
the
operation. Illustrations showing bench
op-
erations
are
used
for
clarification however
all
operations
can
be
performed
on the
vehicle.
MECHANICAL CHECKS
AND
ADJUSTMENTS
Spark Plug Removal
Remove any foreign matter from around spark plugs
by
blowing
out
with compressed
air,
then disconnect wires
and remove plugs.
Test Compression
(Fig. 1)
The compression check
is
important because
an
engine
with
low or
uneven compression cannot
be
tuned success-
fully.
It is
essential that improper compression
be cor-
rected before proceeding with
the
engine tune
up.
1.
Remove
air
cleaner
and
block throttle
and
choke
in
wide open position.
2.
Hook
up
starter remote control cable
and
insert
compression gauge firmly
in
spark plug port.
CAUTION: Whenever
the
engine
is
cranked
CHEVROLET
C*
IS SERVICE MANUAL
Page 280 of 659
ENGINE 6-15
2.
Install rocker arms, rocker arm balls and rocker
arm
nuts.
\
Tighten rocker arm nuts until all lash is
eliminated. .
3.
Adjust valves when lifter is on base circle of cam-
shaft lobe as follows:
a. Mark distributor housing, with chalk, at each cyl-
inder position (plug wire) then disconnect plug
wires at spark plugs and coil and remove distri-
butor cap and plug wire assembly (if not previ-
ously done).
b.
Crank engine until distributor rotor points to
number one cylinder position and breaker points
are open. Both valves on number one cylinder
may now be adjusted.
c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at the push
rod then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is re-
moved. This can be determined by checking push
rod side play while turning adjusting nut (fig. 2L).
When play has been removed, turn adjusting nut
in one full additional turn (to center lifter
plunger).
d. Adjust the remaining valves, one cylinder at a
time,
in the same manner.
4.
Install distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly.
5.
Install rocker arm cover as outlined.
6. Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture.
VALVE LIFTERS
Hydraulic valve lifters very seldom require attention.
The lifters are extremely simple in design readjustments
are not necessary, and servicing of the lifters requires
only that care and cleanliness be exercised in the han-
dling of parts.
Locating Noisy Lifters
Locate a noisy valve lifter by using a piece of garden
Fig.
2L - Valve Adjustment
hose approximately four feet in length. Place one end of
the hose near the end of each intake and exhaust valve
with the other end of the hose to the ear. In this manner,
the sound is localized making it easy to determine which
lifter is at fault.
Another method is to place a finger on the face of the
valve spring retainer. If the lifter is not functioning
properly, a distinct shock will be felt when the valve
returns to its seat.
The general types of valve lifter noise are as follows:
1.
Hard Rapping Noise--Usually caused by the plunger
becoming tight in the bore of the lifter body to such
an extent that the return spring can no longer push
the plunger back up to working position. Probable
causes are:
a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit causing
abnormal stickiness.
b.
Galling or "pickup" between plunger and bore of
lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece
of dirt or metal wedging between plunger and
lifter body.
2.
Moderate Rapping Noise--Probable causes are:
a. Excessively high leakdown rate.
b.
Leaky check valve seat.
c. Improper adjustment.
3.
General Noise Throughout the Valve Train—This
will, in almost all cases, be a definite indication of
insufficient oil supply, or improper adjustment.
4.
Intermittent Clicking—Probable causes are:
a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught
between ball seat and check valve ball.
b.
In rare cases, the ball itself may be
out-of-
round or have a flat spot.
c. Improper adjustment.
In most cases where noise exists in one or more lifters
all lifter units should be removed, disasssmbled, cleaned
in a solvent, reassembled, and reinstalled in the engine.
If dirt, varnish, carbon, etc. is shown to exist in one unit,
it more than likely exists in all the units, thus it would
only be, a matter of time before all lifters caused trouble.
Removal
1.
Remove valve mechanism as outlined.
2.
Mark distributor housing, with chlak, at each cylin-
der position (plug wire) then disconnect plug wires at
spark plugs and coil and remove distributor cap and
plug wire assembly.
3.
Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number
one position, then disconnect distributor primary lead
at coil and remove distributor.
4.
Remove push rod covers (discard gaskets).
5.
Remove valve lifters.
NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they
may be reinstalled in the same location.
Installation
1.
Install valve lifters.
NOTE:
Whenever new valve lifters are being
installed, coat foot of valve lifters with Molykote
or its equivalent.
2.
Install push rod covers, using new gaskets, and
torque bolts to specifications.
3.
Install distributor, positioning rotor to number one
cylinder position, then connect primary lead at coil.
4.
Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
Page 294 of 659
ENGINE 6-29
an extent that the return spring can no longer push
the plunger back up to working position. Probable
causes are:
a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit causing ab-
normal stickiness.
b.
(Sailing or "pick-up" between plunger and bore of
lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece of
dirt or metal wedging between plunger and lifter
body.
2.
Moderate Rapping Noise--Probable causes are:
a. Excessively high leakdown rate.
b.
Leaky check valve seat.
c. Improper adjustment.
3.
General Noise Throughout the Valve Train-rThis
will, in almost all cases, be a definite indication of
insufficient oil supply, or improper adjustment.
4.
Intermittent Clicking—Probable causes are:
a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught
between ball seat and check valve ball.
b.
In rare cases, the ball itself may be out-of-round
or have a flat spot.
c. Improper adjustment.
In most cases where noise exists in one or more lifters
all lifter units should be removed, disassembled, cleaned
in a solvent, reassembled, and reinstalled in the engine.
If dirt, corrosion, carbon, etc. is shown to exist in one
unit, it more than likely exists in all the units, thus it
would only be a matter of time before all lifters caused
trouble.
Removal
1.
Remove intake manifold as outlined.
2.
Remove valve mechanism as outlined.
3.
Remove valve lifters.
NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they
may be reinstalled in the same location.
Installation
1.
Install valve lifters.
NOTE: Whenever new valve lifters are being
installed coat foot of valve lifters with Molykote
or its equivalent.
2.
Install intake manifold as outlined.
3.
Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined.
VALVE STEM OIL SEAL AND/OR VALVE SPRING
Replacement
1.
Remove rocker arm cover(s) as outlined.
2.
Remove spark plug, rocker arm and push rod on the
cylinders to be serviced.
3.
Apply compressed air to the spark plug hole to hold
tl*e valves in place.
NOTE: A tool to apply air to the cylinder is
available through local jobbers or may be manu-
factured. In manufacturing this Tool a AC-46N
Spark Plug or its equivalent is recommended.
This will make the Tool universal for all
Chevrolet engines. Chisel the spark plug as
shown, then drive the porcelain out of the plug
by tapping the center electrode against a hard
block. Using a 3/8" pipe tap, cut threads in the
remaining portion of the spark plug and assem-
ble as shown (fig. 6V).
Fig.
6V - Air Adapter Tool
4.
Using Tool J-5892, to compress the valve spring, re-
move the valve locks, valve cap, and valve spring and
damper (fig. 7V).
5.
Remove valve stem oil seal.
6. Remove as follows:
283, 327 and 350 eu. in.
Engines
a. To replace, set the valve spring and damper,
valve shield and valve cap in place. The close
coiled end of the spring is installed against the
cylinder head.
b.
Compress the spring with Tool J-5892 and install
oil seal in the lower groove of the stem, making
sure the seal is flat and not twisted.
NOTE: A light coat of oil on the seal will help
prevent twisting.
Fig.
7V - Compressing Valve Spring
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
Page 306 of 659
SECTION 6K
ENGINE COOLING
INDEX
Page
General Description . . . 6K-1
Maintenance and Adjustments 6K-1
Coolant Level 6K-1
Coolant System Checks 6K-1
Periodic Maintenance 6K-2
Cleaning 6K-2
Reverse Flushing 6K-2
Radiator 6K-2
Page
Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head 6K-2
Hot Water Heater 6K-2
Fan Belt . 6K-2
Adjustment ....". 6K-2
Thermostat . 6K-2
Replacement 6K-2
Water Pump. . . . 6K-3
Removal 6K-3
Installation 6K-3
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
A pressure cooling system is provided for on all
models by a pressure type radiator cap (fig. 1). The
pressure type radiator cap used is designed to hold a
pressure above atmospheric pressure in the cooling
system. Excessive pressure is relieved by a valve within
the cap that opens to radiator overflow.
The water pump is a ball bearing, centrifugal vane
impeller type. It requires no care other than to make
certain the air vent at the top of the housing and the drain
holes in the bottom do not become plugged with dirt or
grease. Removal and installation of the water pump is
covered in this section. For overhaul procedures of the
water pump refer to Section 6K of the Passenger Chassis
Overhaul Manual.
For radiator, refer to Section 13 of this manual For
radiator shroud, refer to Section 11 of this manual.
Fig.
I—Pressure Radiator Cap
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
Coolant Level
The radiator coolant level should only be checked when
the engine is cool, particularly on cars equipped with air
conditioning. If the radiator cap is removed from a hot
cooling system, serious personal injury may result
The cooling system fluid level should be maintained
one inch below the bottom of the filler neck of the radia-
tor when cooling system is cold, or at the bottom of the
filler neck when the system is warm. It is very impor-
tant that the correct fluid level be maintained. The seal-
ing ability of the radiator cap is affected when the cooling
level is too high.
All passenger car cooling systems are pressurized
with a pressure cap which permits safe engine operation
at cooling temperatures of
up
to 247°F.
When the radiator cap is removed or loosened, the
system pressure drops to atmospheric, and the heat
which had caused water temperature to be higher than
212°F, will be dissipated by conversion of water to
steam. Inasmuch as the steam may form in the engine
water passages, it will blow coolant out of the radiator
upper hose and top tank, necessitating coolant replace-
ment Engine operating temperatures higher than the
normal boiling point of water are in no way objectionable
so long as the coolant level is satisfactory when the
engine is cooL
Upon repeated coolant loss, the pressure radiator cap
and seat should be checked for sealing ability. Also, the
cooling system should be checked for loose hose con-
nections, defective hoses, gasket leaks, etc.
Coolant System Checks
1.
Test for restriction in the radiator, by warming the
engine up and then turning the engine off and feeling
the radiator. The radiator should be hot at the top
and warm at the bottom, with an even temperature
rise from bottom to top. Cold spots in the radiator
indicate clogged sections.
2.
Water pump operation may be checked by running the
engine while squeezing the upper radiator hose. A
pressure surge should be felt Check for a plugged
vent-hole in pump.
NOTE:
A defective head gasket may allow ex-
haust gases to leak into the cooling system.
This is particularly damaging to the cooling
system as the gases combine with the water to
form acids which are particularly harmful to
the radiator and engine.
3.
To check for exhaust leaks into the cooling system,
drain the system until the water level stands just
above the top of the cylinder head, then disconnect
the upper radiator hose and remove the thermostat
and fan belt. Start the engine and quickly accelerate
several times. At the same time note any appreci-
able water rise or the appearance of bubbles which
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
Page 307 of 659
ENGINE COOLING 6K-2
are indicative of exhaust gases leaking into the coolr
ing system.
Periodic Maintenance
Periodic service must be performed to the engine cool-
ing system to keep it in efficient operating condition.
These services should include a complete cleaning and
reverse flushing as well as a reconditioning service.
In the course of engine operation, rust and scale ac-
cumulate in the radiator and engine water jacket. The
accumulation of these deposits can be kept to a minimum
by the use of a good rust inhibitor but it should be
remembered that an inhibitor will not remove rust al-
ready present in the cooling system.
Two common causes of corrosion are: (1) air suction--
Air may be drawn into the system due to low liquid level
in the radiator, leaky water pump or loose hose con-
nections; (2) exhaust gas leakage—Exhaust gas may be
blown into the cooling system past the cylinder head
gasket or through cracks in the cylinder head and block.
Cleaning
A good cleaning solution should be used to loosen the
rust and scale before reverse flushing the cooling
system. There are a number of cleaning solutions avail-
able and the manufacturer's instructions with the particu-
lar cleaner being used should always be followed.
An excellent preparation to use for this purpose is GM
Cooling System Cleaner. The following directions for
cleaning the system applies only when this type cleaner
is-used.
1.
Drain the cooling system including the cylinder block
and then close both drain plugs.
2.
Remove thermostat and replace thermostat housing.
3.
Add the liquid portion (No. 1) of the cooling system
cleaner.
4.
Fill the cooling system with water to a level of about
3 inches below the top of the overflow pipe.
5. Cover the radiator and run the engine at moderate
speed until engine coolant temperature reaches 180
degrees.
6. Remove cover from radiator and continue to run the
engine for 20 minutes. Avoid boiling.
7. While the engine is still running, add the powder
portion (No. 2) of the cooling system cleaner and
continue to run the engine for 10 minutes.
8. At the end of this time, stop the engine, wait a few
minutes and then open the drain cocks or remove
pipe plugs. Also remove lower hose connection.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scald your hands.
NOTE:
Dirt and bugs may be cleaned out of
the radiator air passages by blowing out with air
pressure from the back of the core.
Reverse Flushing
Reverse flushing should always be accomplished after
the system is thoroughly cleaned as outlined above.
Flushing is. accomplished through the system in a direc-
tion opposite to the normal flow. This action causes the
water to get behind the corrosion deposits and force
them out.
Radiator
1.
Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and re-
place the radiator cap,
2.
Attach a lead-away hose at the top of the radiator.
3.
Attach a new piece of hose to the radiator outlet
connection and insert the flushing gun in this hose.
4.
Connect the water hose of the flushing gun to a water
outlet and the air hose to an air line.
5. Turn on the water and when the radiator is full, turn
on the air in short blasts, allowing the radiator to
fill between blasts of air.
CAUTION: Apply air gradually as a clogged
radiator will stand only a limited pressure.
6. Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-
away hose runs clear.
Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head
1.
With the thermostat removed, attach a lead-away
hose to the water pump inlet and a length of new hose
to the water outlet connection at the top of the engine.
NOTE:
Disconnect the heater hose when re-
verse flushing engine.
2.
Insert the flushing gun in the new hose.
3.
Turn on the water and when the engine water jacket
is full, turn on the air in short blasts.
4.
Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-
away hose runs clear.
Hot Water Heater
1.
Remove water outlet hose from heater core pipe.
2.
Remove inlet hose from engine connection.
3.
Insert flushing gun and flush heater core. Care must
be taken when applying air pressure to prevent
damage to the core.
Fan Belt
Adjustment
1.
Loosen bolts at Delcotron slotted bracket.
2.
Pull Delcotron away from engine until desired ten-
sion reading is obtained with a strand tension gauge.
Refer to Section 6, "Engine Tune-Up".
3.
Tighten all Delcotron bolts securely.
Thermostat
The thermostat consists of a restriction valve actuated
by a thermostatic element. This is mounted in the hous-
ing at the cylinder head water outlet above the water
pump,
thermostats are designed to open and close at
predetermined temperatures and if not operating properly
should be removed and tested as follows.
Replacement
1.
Remove radiator to water outlet hose.
2.
Remove thermostat housing bolts and remove water
outlet and gasket from thermostat housing (fig. 2).
3.
Inspect thermostat valve to make sure it is in good
condition.
4.
Place thermostat in hot water 25° above the temper-
ature stamped on the thermostat valve.
5. Submerge the valve completely and agitate the water
thoroughly. Under this condition the valve should
open fully.
6. Remove the thermostat and place in water 10° below
temperature indicated on the valve.
7. With valve completely submerged and water agitated
thoroughly, the valve should close completely.
8. If thermostat checks satisfactorily, re-install, using
a new housing gasket.
9. Refill cooling system.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
Page 312 of 659
ENGINE FUEL 6M-4
Fig.
3C-Fuel Level Sight Plug
2.
Push hand choke knob in to within 1/8" of instru-
ment panel.
3.
Loosen choke cable clamp at carburetor bracket and
adjust cable through the clip until the choke valve
is wide open.
4.
Tighten cable clamp at carburetor bracket and check
operation of choke valve to ensure full closed and
wide open positions.
5. Install air cleaner.
Float Adjustment
Ho/fey (Model 4150
Center
Inlet & Model 2300)
1.
Remove air cleaner then remove the fuel level sight
plugs (Fig. 3c)
2.
With parking brake on, and transmission in neutral,
start the engine and allow it to idle.
3.
With the car on a level surface, the fuel level should
be on a level with the threads at the bottom of the
sight plug port (plus or minus 1/32 inch).
NOTE:
No float drop adjustment is required
on this carburetor.
4.
If necessary to adjust (either or both bowls), loosen
inlet needle lock screw and turn the adjusting nut
clockwise to lower or counter-clockwise to raise
fuel level, then tighten lock screw.
NOTE:
1/6 turn of adjusting nut equals ap-
proximately 1/16" fuel level change.
5. Allow a minute for fuel level to stabilize then re-
check the level at sight plug.
6. Readjust, if necessary, until proper level is obtained,
then install sight plug and air cleaner.
NOTE:
To assure proper secondary float level
setting it is advisable to accelerate primary
throttles slightly and hand operate secondary
throttle. This assures a stabilized secondary
fuel level.
Additional Adjustments
The following adjustments may be made without re-
moving the carburetor from the engine. For procedure
refer to Section 6M of the Overhaul Manual under the
carburetor being serviced.
Rochester BV
• Float
• Idle Vent
• Choke Rod (Fast Idle)
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Rochester 2GV
• Float
• Accelerator Pump
• Idle Vent
• Choke Rod (Fast Idle)
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
• Secondary Throttle Opening
• Secondary Throttle Lockout
Rochester 4MV
• Float
• Accelerator Pumj)
• Idle Vent
• Air Valve
• Choke Rod
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
• Air Valve Lockout
• Secondary Opening
• Secondary Lockout
Carter YF
• Float
• Idle Vent
• Choke Rod (Fast Idle)
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Holley 4160 and 4150
(Except End
Inlet)
• Float
• Air Vent Valve
• Accelerator Pump
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Holley 2300 and 4150
(End
Inlet)
• Air Vent Valve (except 2300)
• Accelerator Pump
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Removal
Flooding, stumble on acceleration and other perform-
mance complaints are, in many instances, caused by the
presence of dirt, water, or other foreign matter in the
carburetor. To aid in diagnosing the cause of the com-
plaint, the carburetor should be carefully removed from
the engine without draining the fuel from the bowl.
The contents of the fuel bowl may then be examined for
contamination as the carburetor is disassembled.
1.
Remove air cleaner and gasket.
2.
Disconnect fuel and vacuum lines from carburetor.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
Page 315 of 659
ENGINE FUEL 6M-7
5. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission
hold throttle rod in full throttle position, pull TV
rod to full detent position and adjust TV rod to just
enter hole on throttle lever, then connect TV rod at
throttle lever.
NOTE:
If equipped with anti-stall device (dash-
pot),
set carburetor fast idle cam on high step
and adjust dash-pot to just contact throttle
lever.
327
CU.
IN.
427
CU.
IN.
Fig.
8C—Throttle Linkage-Corvette
AIR
CLEANERS
INDEX
Page
General Description 6M-7
Service Procedures . . 6M-8
Polyurethane. Element 6M-8
Maintenance 6M-8
Oil Bath 6M-8
Page
Maintenance
...........* 6M-8
Oil
Wetted
Paper
Element
6M-9
Replacement
* . 6M-9
Testing 6M-9
Tool J-7852 . 6M-9
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Air cleaners on all models operate primarily to re-
move dust and dirt from the air that is taken into the
carburetor and engine. All air cleaners on engines
equipped with "Closed Positive" ventilation incorporate
flame arresters. Every 12,000 miles the flame ar-
resters should be removed, cleaned in solvent and blown
dry with compressed air.
An oil wetted polyurethane element air cleaner (fig. 1A)
is standard equipment on In Line engines. This type
cleaner element is reusable and should be removed,
cleaned, re-oiled and reinstalled every 12,000 miles or
more often during dusty or other adverse driving con-
ditions. The optional, oil bath air cleaner (available on
Chevrolets with L6 engine) should be cleaned and re-
filled with oil at oil change intervals.
On the V8 engines,, a replaceable, oil wetted paper
element type is used (fig; 2A). Both ends of me paper
element are bonded with plastisol sealing material.
The improved oil wetted paper elements have increased
filtering capacity over their dry paper predecessors.
Oil on the paper causes the element to become diBcolored
by a small amount of dirt but does not necessarily mean
the element is plugged or reduced in efficiency. Every
12,000 miles or more often during dusty or other adverse
driving conditions, either replace oil wetted paper ele-
ment or test element using ToolJ-7825.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SOVICE/MANUAL
Page 346 of 659
ENGINE-ELECTRICAL
6Y-21
Fig.
6i—Distributor Lead Arrangements
NOTE:
End of cam
lubricant wick should
be
adjusted
to
just touch
cam
lobes. Over lubrica-
tion
of cam
resulting
in
grease
on
contact points
can-
be
caused
by cam
lubrication wick bearing
too hard against
cam
surface.
A
correctly
ad-
justed
cam
lubricator wick will provide adequate
lubrication
for cam. Do not
apply additional
grease
to cam
surface.
7.
Start engine
and
check point dwell
and
ignition
timing.
ACTUAL
POINT OPENING
.021
.016
FEELER GAUGE
LOCATOR ___JH^H
(ROUND)
V~^3H|
CENTRIFUGAL
\
jdft
ADVANCE
-~-»JBlMBl
MECHANISM
«H
CAM g^k. / X
LUBRICATOR
V^^^
REPLACEMENT
^£9
^-ADJUST
SQUARELY
AND
JUST
TOUCHING
LOBE
OF
CAM
.ROTOR
I^^I^BL
LOCATOR
(PBV 7
(SQUARE)
SBSSF
/
WWjga^/
^/
LUBRICATOR
H^f
CAUTION!
S5y
NEVER
OIL
•-^
CAM
LUBRICATOR-
REPLACE
WICK
WHEN
NECESSARY
Fig.
8i—Inaccurate Gauging
of
Rough Points
SETTING DWELL ANGLE
Four
and Six
Cylinder Engine Distributors
The point opening
of new
points
can be
checked with
a
feeler gauge,
but the use of a
feeler gauge
on
rough
or
uncleaned used points
is not
recommended since accurate
mechanical gauging cannot
be
done
on
such points (fig. 8i).
Contact points must
be set to the
proper opening.
Points
set too
close
may
tend
to
burn and
pit
rapidly.
Points with excessive separation tend
to
cause
a
weak
spark
at
high speed. Proper point setting
for all
models
are:
.019"
for new
points
.016"
for
used points
New points must
be set to the
larger opening
as the
rubbing block will wear down slightly while seating
to the
cam. Contact points should
be
cleaned before adjusting
if
they have been
in
service.
LATERAL
MISALIGNMENT
PROPER
LATERAL
ALIGNMENT
pCORRECT
LATERAL MISALIGNMENT
BY
M
BENDING FIXED CONTACT SUPPORT
[NEVER
BEND BREAKER LEVER
Fig.
7i—Top View
of
Distributor
Fig.
9i—Alignment
of
Points
CHEVROLET
CHASSIS SERVICE /MANUAL
Page 358 of 659
ENGINE-ELECTRICAL 6Y-33
O
V-8 ENGINE
STARTING MOTOR
Fig.
2s—V-8 Starting Circuit Diagram
2.
3.
From battery negative post
To
starting motor
housing.
From solenoid battery terminal
To
solenoid motor
terminal.
If voltage drop
in
any
of
above check exceeds 0.2 volts,
excessive resistance
is
indicated in that portion
of
start-
ing circuit
and the
cause
of the
excessive resistance
should
be
located
and
corrected
in
order to obtain maxi-
mum efficiency in the circuit.
CAUTION:
Do not
operate
the
starting motor
continuously
for
more than
30
seconds
to
avoid
overheating.
When
the
solenoid fails
to
pull
in, the
trouble may be
due
to
excessive voltage drop in the solenoid control cir-
cuit.
To
check
for
this condition, close
the
starting
switch
and
measure
the
voltage drop between
the
BAT-
TERY terminal of the solenoid and the
SWITCH (S)
termi-
nal
of
the solenoid.
1.
If
this voltage drop exceeds 3.5 volts, excessive
re-
sistance
in the
solenoid control circuit
is
indicated
and should be corrected.
2.
If the
voltage drop does not exceed 3.5 volts and the
solenoid does not pull in, measure the voltage availa-
ble
at
the SWITCH terminal
of
the solenoid.
3.
If the
solenoid does
not
feel warm,
it
should pull
in
whenever the voltage available
at
the SWITCH termi-
nal
is 7.7
volts
or
more. When
the
solenoid feels
warm,
it
will require
a
somewhat higher voltage
to
pull in.
STARTING MOTOR AND SOLENOID CHECK
The following checks
may be
made
if the
specific
gravity of the battery
is
1.215
or
higher.
1.
If the
solenoid does
not
pull in, measure the voltage
between
the
switch
(S)
terminal
of the
solenoid
and
ground with the starting switch closed.
CAUTION:
If the
solenoid feels warm, allow
to
cool before checking.
If
the
voltage
is
less than 7.7 volts, check for ex-
cessive resistance
in the
solenoid control circuit.
If
the
voltage exceeds 7.7 volts, remove the starting
motor
and
check
(1)
solenoid current draw,
(2)
starting motor pinion clearance,
and (3)
freedom of
shift lever linkage.
2.
If
the solenoid "chatters" but does not hold in, check
the solenoid
for an
open "hold-in" 'winding. When-
ever
it is
necessary
to
replace
a
starting motor
solenoid, always check starting motor pinion
clearance.
3.
If
motor engages
but
does
not
crank
or
cranks
slowly, check
for
excessive resistance
in the ex-
ternal starting circuit, trouble within
the
starting
motor,
or
excessive engine resistance
to
cranking.
SERVICE OPERATIONS
STARTING MOTOR
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Fig.
3s)
The following procedure
is a
general guide
for all
vehicles
and
will vary slightly depending
on
series
and
model.
1.
Disconnect battery ground cable at battery.
2.
Raise vehicle
to a
good working height.
3.
Disconnect all wires
at
solenoid terminals.
NOTE: Reinstall
the
nuts
as
each wire
is
dis-
connected
as
thread size
is
different but may be
mixed and stripped.
4.
Loosen starter front bracket (nut on V-8 and bolt on
L-6) then remove two mount bolts.
5.
Remove
the
front bracket bolt
or nut and
rotate
bracket clear
of
work area then lower starter from
vehicle
by
lowering front end first
—
(hold starter
against bell housing
and
sort
of
roll end-over-end).
6. Reverse
the
removal procedure
to
install. Torque
the mount bolts
to
25-35
ft.
lbs. first, then torque
brace bolt.
7.
Check operation
of
starter on vehicle.
Fig.
3s—Starter Mounting
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
Page 365 of 659
CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-6
L6 ENGINE
V8 ENGINE
Fig.
7 - Lower Linkage Details - Camaro
Fig.
8 - Corvette Lower Linkage Details
THREE-SPEED (SA6INAW FULLY SYNCHRONIZED)
TRANSMISSION
General Description . .
Maintenance and Adjustments
Shift Linkage Adjustment
Shift Control Lever
&
Bracket Assembly
Speedometer Driven Gear ..........
INDEX
Page Page
7-6 Extension Oil Seal Replacement 7-7
7-7 Transmission Side Cover 7-8
7-7 Component Part Replacement 7-8
7-7 Transmission Replacement (exc. Corvette) . 7-8
7-7 Corvette Transmission Replacement 7-9
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The Saginaw three speed fully synchronized (all forward
gears) transmission incorporates helical drive gears
throughout.
The main drive gear is supported by a ball bearing at
the front end of the transmission case and is piloted at
its front end in an oil impregnated bushing mounted in the
engine crankshaft. The front end of the mainshaft is
piloted in a row of roller bearings set into the hollow end
of the main drive gear and the rear end is carried by a
ball bearing mounted in the front of the extension housing.
The countergear is carried on a single row of rollers at
both ends while thrust is taken on thrust washers located
between the ends of the gear and the thrust bosses in the
case.
Ah anti-rattle plate assembly at the front of the
countergear provides a constant spring tension between the
counter and clutch gears to reduce torsional vibrations.
The reverse idler gear is carried on a bushing finish
bored in place. It rotates on a short idler shaft with a
steel thrust washer tanged into the case against the rear
face. Forward movement is stopped by a snap ring on
the idler shaft.
Gear shifting is manual through shift control rods to
the rearward shift lever of the side cover assembly for
first and reverse gear; and through a cross shaft assem-
bly (Chevrolet models) attached to the forward side cover
lever for second and third gear. All three forward gears
are fully synchronized. The synchronizer assemblies
consist of a clutch hub, clutch sleeve, two clutch key
springs and three energizer clutch keys and are retained
as an assembly on the main shaft by a snap ring.
The transmission may be used as an aid in deceleration
by downshifting in sequence without double-clutching or
any gear clashing. Reverse is not- synchronized, how-
ever, it is a helical gear to insure quiet operation.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL