check engine CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2001 Service Manual

(21) Install battery thermal shield and clutch cable
eyelet (LHD only) (Fig. 99). Verify proper clutch cable
routing (LHD models). Cable should be routed over
guide, through eyelet, and around coolant bottle and
wiring harness.
(22) Connect battery cables.
(23) Check transaxle fluid and engine coolant lev-
els. Adjust if necessary. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMIS-
SION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL/FLUID - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - T850 MANUAL TRANSAXLE
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Transaxle TypeConstant-mesh, fully synchronized 5-speed with integral
differential
Lubrication MethodSplash oil collected in case passage and oil trough and
distributed to mainshafts via gravity
Fluid Type ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission FluidÐType 9602)
GEAR RATIOS
GEAR RATIO (2.4L Gas) RATIO (2.5L TD)
1st 3.65 3.46
2nd 2.07 2.05
3rd 1.39 1.37
4th 1.03 0.97
5th 0.83 0.76
Reverse 3.47 3.47
Final Drive Ratio 3.77 3.53
Overall Top Gear 3.12 2.66
Fig. 99 Battery Thermal Shield
1 - BATTERY THERMAL SHIELD
RGT850 MANUAL TRANSAXLE21a-37
T850 MANUAL TRANSAXLE (Continued)

LUBRICANT USAGE
COMPONENT SERVICE INTERVAL LUBRICANT
Door Hinges - Hinge Pin and Pivot
Contact AreasAs Required Engine Oil
Hood Hingers - Pivot Points As Required Engine Oil
Lifgate Hinges As Required Engine Oil
Door Check Straps As Required Spray white lube (3)
Door Latches As Required Multi-Purpose Grease (Water
Resistant) (1)
Lifgate Latches As Required Spray white lube (3)
Lifgate Prop Pivots As Required Spray white lube (3)
Ash Receiver As Required Spray white lube (3)
Fuel Filler Door Remote Control
Latch MechanismAs Required Spray white lube (3)
Parking Brake Mechanism As Required Spray white lube (3)
Sliding Seat Tracks As Required Spray white lube (3)
All Other Hood Mechanisms As Required Multipurpose Grease (2)
Door Lock Cylinders As Required Lock Cylinder Lubricant (4)
Lifgate Lock Cylinder As Required Lock Cylinder Lubricant (4)
Sliding Door Upper Track As Required Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI Grade
2 EP (2)
Sliding Door Center Track Leading
EdgeAs Required Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI Grade
2 EP (2)
Sliding Door Lower Track Leading
EdgeAs Required Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI Grade
2 EP (2)
Window System Components
(Regulators, tracks, links, channel
areas Ð except glass run
weatherstrips and felt lubricator, if
equipped.)As Required Spray white lube (3)
1 MOPARž Wheel Bearing Grease (High Temperature)
2 MOPARž Multi-Mileage Lubricant or equivalent
3 MOPARž Spray white lube or equivalent
4 MOPARž Lock Cylinder Lubricant or equivalent
23 - 10 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)

COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove four (4) screws securing cowel to wiper
module (Fig. 6).
(3) Disengage quarter turn fasteners at outboard
ends of cowl grill from body.
(4) Release hood latch and open hood.
CAUTION: To prevent hood scratching of cowl grille
before removal, cover outboard exterior ends of
cowl grille with masking tape or equivalent method.
NOTE: Do not over bend cowl grille during removal.
Bend cowl grille just enough to clear top of wiper
pivot shaft and bottom rear corner of hood.
(5) Remove cowl grill by raising above driver side
wiper pivot shaft and swinging away towards engine
compartment. the cowl grille will need to be bent on
outboard end to clear simultaneoudly top of wiper
pivot shaft and bottom corner of hood.
(6) Close hood. Do not latch. Remove outboard
screws. (Fig. 7).
(7) Disconnect washer hose in-line connector.
(8) Disconnect washer hose and grommet from
hole in wiper module and pull out.
(9) Remove cowl grille by raising over opposite
wiper pivot shaft and removing away from vehicle.
(10) Remove cowl cover from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reverse removal procedure.
(2) When installing cowel grille over wiper module,
make sure fore-aft locator on the underside of cowl
grill seat into the locator grooves on top of wiper
module.
(3) Star all cowl grille mounting screws by hand
before torquing to specifications.
(4) Assure washer hose is properly routed and not
pinched.
(5) Center cowl grille to body and windshield.
(6) Assure ªarrowº indicator head of quarter turn
fasteners is pointing toward winshield.
(7) Screw torque1.2 n.m (11 in. lb.)
(8) Install the wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS - INSTAL-
LATION)
(9) Check for proper spray pattern from washer
nozzles.
Fig. 6 Cowl Cover
1 - COWL COVER
2 - WIPER PIVOT
3 - WASHER HOSES
4 - HOOD
Fig. 7 Cowl Cover Retainers
1 - SCREW
2 - WINDSHIELD
3 - COWL COVER
4 - FRONT FENDER
23 - 190 EXTERIORRS

EXTERIOR NAME PLATES -
TAPE ATTACHED
REMOVAL
(1) Mark reference points before removing.
(2) Using a heat gun gently apply heat in a circu-
lar motion to loosen the adhesive bond.
(3) Using a nonmetallic prying device, such as a
plastic or wood trim stick gently pry up at corners
and remove.
(4) Clean off all traces of adhesive or double sided
tape from the panel with a general purpose adhesive
remover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean panel surface with isopropy alcohol.
(2) Align badgeing to reference points.
(3) Install and press securely to full adhesive con-
tact
(4) Clean away any reference points.
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES -
ADHESIVE ATTACHED
REMOVAL
(1) Mark reference points before removing.
(2) Using a heat gun gently apply heat in a circu-
lar motion to loosen the adhesive bond.
(3) With your fingernail lift up and peel away
badgeing/tape from panel, using a heat gun as you
go.
(4) Clean off all traces of adhesive from the pan-
el(s) with a general purpose adhesive remover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean panel surface with isopropy alcohol.
(2) Remove paper carrier and align badgeing/tape
to reference points or adjacent panel.
(3) Install and press securely, using a plastic
spreader to eliminate all air bubbles.
(4) Remove top protective carrier.
(5) Clean away any reference points.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove headlamp housing. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/HEAD-
LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove mud guard.
(3) Remove inner splash shield.
(4) Remove fender to fascia nuts.(5) Remove outboard cowl grille/fender bracket
screw.
(6) Remove fender bolt to lower rocker panel.
(7) Remove fender bolt to lower cowl.
(8) Pull fascia away from fender.
(9) Remove bolts attaching fender to upper rail.
(10) Remove fender from vehicle (Fig. 8).
INSTALLATION
(1) Place fender in position on vehicle.
(2) From inside engine compartment, start the
center upper rail bolt. install all the bolts attaching
fender to upper rail and tighten.
(3) Install fender to lower cowl panel bolt.
(4) Install fender to rocker panel bolt.
(5) Place fascia into position.
(6) Install outboard cowl grille/fender bracket
screw.
(7) Install fender to fascia nuts.
(8) Install inner splash shield.
(9) Install mud guard.
(10) Install headlamp assembly. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
HEADLAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION)
(11) Check fender for flush and gap.
FUEL FILL DOOR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove left quarter trim panel.
Fig. 8 Fender
1 - FASTENERS
2 - FENDER
3 - FASTENERS
RSEXTERIOR23 - 191

MANUAL TEMPERATURE CONTROL
The front blower speed must be set to High and
the evaporator temperature sensor must be greater
than 55É F or the test will fail immediately. The test
is activated by depressing the A/C and PWR buttons
simultaneously and holding them depressed for no
less than five seconds. The PWR and A/C LEDs will
blink on and off until the test is complete. If the
LEDs stop blinking after two minutes, then the cool
down test has been completed successfully. If the two
minutes expire without the evaporator temperature
reaching 20É F less than the outside air temperature,
then the cool down test has been failed and further
A/C system diagnosis is required. If the test is failed,
the LEDs will continue to blink across ignition cycles
until the vehicle has been driven for greater than (3
miles).
AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL
The outside air temperature shown in the ATC dis-
play must not be lower than 53É F or the test will not
begin. The ambient air temperature in the room
where the vehicle will be tested must be a minimum
of 21É C (70ÉF) for this test.The test is activated by
depressing the A/C and PWR buttons simultaneously
and holding them depressed for no less than four sec-
onds. The snowflake icon and the DELAY text in the
ATC display will blink on and off alternately until
the test is complete. If the snowflake icon and the
DELAY text stop blinking after two minutes, then
the cool down test has been completed successfully. If
the two minutes expire without the evaporator tem-
perature reaching 20É F less than the evaporator ini-
tial temperature, then the cool down test has been
failed and further A/C system diagnosis is required.
If the test is failed, the snowflake icon and the
DELAY text will continue to blink across ignition
cycles until the vehicle has been driven for greater
than (3 miles).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C
PERFORMANCE TEST
An air conditioning performance test is the best
way to determine whether the system is performing
up to standard. This test also provides valuable clues
as to the possible cause of trouble with the air con-
ditioning system. The ambient air temperature in the
location where the vehicle will be tested must be a
minimum of 21É C (70ÉF) for this test.
WARNING: REFER TO THE APPLICABLE WARN-
INGS AND CAUTIONS FOR THIS SYSTEM BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT - WARNING - A/C PLUMBING)
and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT - CAUTION - A/C PLUMBING).
NOTE: When connecting the service equipment
coupling to the line fitting, verify that the valve of
the coupling is fully closed. This will reduce the
amount of effort required to make the connection.
(1) Connect a tachometer to monitor the engine
speed.
(2) Remove the caps from the refrigerant system
service ports and attach a manifold gauge set to
monitor the refrigerant system pressures.
(3) Set the heater-air conditioner controls so that
the compressor is engaged, the air within the vehicle
is being recirculated, the output air is directed
through the panel outlets, the temperature control is
in the full cool position, and the blower motor is oper-
ating at its highest speed.
(4) Start the engine and allow the engine to oper-
ate for about five minutes or until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Then hold the engine speed
at 1000 rpm with the compressor clutch engaged. If
the compressor clutch does not engage, proceed with
diagnosis of the compressor clutch coil. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS -
FRONT/COMPRESSOR CLUTCH COIL - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
(5) Close all the vehicle windows and doors.
(6) Insert a thermometer in the left center panel
outlet and operate the engine for five minutes.
(7) With the compressor clutch engaged, record the
left center panel outlet discharge air temperature,
the discharge pressure (high side service port), and
the suction pressure (low side service port). The com-
pressor clutch may cycle, depending upon the ambi-
ent temperature and humidity. If the clutch cycles,
use the readings obtained before the clutch disen-
gaged.
(8) Compare the discharge air temperature read-
ing to the Performance Temperature and Pressure
chart. If the temperature reading is high, check the
refrigerant system for leaks and proper refrigerant
charge level. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - FRONT/REFRIGERANT -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM LEAKS) and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - FRONT/REFRIGER-
ANT - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REFRIGER-
ANT SYSTEM CHARGE LEVEL).
RSHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING24-5
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)

Performance Temperature and Pressure
Ambient Temperature 21É C
(70É F)27É C
(80É F)32É C
(90É F)38É C
(100É F)43É C
(110É F)
Left Center Panel
Outlet Discharge Air
Temperature1to8ÉC
(34 to 46É F)3to9ÉC
(37 to 49É F)4 to 10ÉC
(39 to 50É F)6to11ÉC
(43 to 52É F)7 to 18É C
(45 to 65É F)
Discharge Pressure
(High Side Service
Port)1034 to 1724
kPa
(150 to 250
psi)1517 to 2275
kPa
(220 to 330
psi)1999 to 2620
kPa
(290 to 380
psi)2068 to 2965
kPa
(300 to 430
psi)2275 to 3421
kPa
(330 to 450 psi)
Suction Pressure (Low
Side Service Port)103 to 207 kPa
(15 to 30 psi)117 to 221 kPa
(17 to 32 psi)138 to 241 kPa
(20 to 35 psi)172 to 269 kPa
(25 to 39 psi)207 to 345 kPa
(30 to 50 psi)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATER
PERFORMANCE TEST
PRE-DIAGNOSTIC PREPARATIONS
WARNING: REFER TO THE APPLICABLE WARN-
INGS AND CAUTIONS FOR THIS SYSTEM BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING FRONT - WARNING - HEATER PLUMB-
ING).
Check the coolant level, drive belt tension, radiator
air flow, and cooling fan operation. Start the engine
and allow it to warm up to normal temperature.
MAXIMUM HEATER OUTPUT: TEST AND ACTION
Engine coolant is provided to the heater system by
two 16 mm (5/8 inch inside diameter) heater hoses.
With the engine idling at normal running tempera-
ture, set the heater-A/C controls as follows. Temper-
ature control to full Heat, Mode control to Floor,
Blower control to the highest speed setting. Using a
test thermometer, check the air temperature coming
from the center floor outlets and compare this read-
ing to the Temperature Reference table.
TEMPERATURE REFERENCE
AMBIENT
TEMPERATUREMINIMUM FLOOR
OUTLET TEMPERATURE
CELSIUS FAHRENHEIT CELSIUS FAHRENHEIT
15.5É 60É 62.2É 144É
21.1É 70É 63.8É 147É
26.6É 80É 65.5É 150É
32.2É 90É 67.2É 153ÉIf the floor outlet air temperature is insufficient,
check that the cooling system is operating to specifi-
cations. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING). Both heater hoses should be
HOT to the touch (the coolant return hose should be
slightly cooler than the supply hose). If the coolant
return hose is much cooler than the supply hose,
locate and repair the engine coolant flow obstruction
in heater system.
POSSIBLE LOCATIONS OR CAUSE OF OBSTRUCTED
COOLANT FLOW
²Pinched or kinked heater hoses.
²Improper heater hose routing.
²Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports
at cooling system connections.
²Plugged heater core.
²Air locked heater core.
²Restrictor in backwards.
If coolant flow is verified and the heater floor out-
let temperature is insufficient, a mechanical problem
may exist.
POSSIBLE LOCATION OR CAUSE OF INSUFFICIENT HEAT
²Obstructed cowl air intake.
²Obstructed heater system outlets.
²Blend-air door not functioning properly.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
If heater floor outlet temperature cannot be
adjusted with the heater-A/C control temperature
control lever, one of the following could require ser-
vice:
²Blend-air door binding.
²Faulty blend-air door motor.
²Improper engine coolant temperature.
²Faulty heater-A/C control.
24 - 6 HEATING & AIR CONDITIONINGRS
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)

ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOD-
ULES/POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE -
DESCRIPTION - PCM OPERATION).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH AIR GAP
If a new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are being
used, the air gap between the clutch plate and clutch
pulley must be checked using the following proce-
dure:
(1) Using feeler gauges, measure the air gap
between the clutch plate and the clutch pulley fric-
tion surfaces.
(2) If the air gap is not between 0.5 and 0.9 mm
(0.020 and 0.035 in.), add or subtract shims until the
desired air gap is obtained.
NOTE: The shims may compress after tightening
the compressor shaft bolt. Check the air gap in four
or more places on the clutch plate to verify that the
air gap is still correct. Spin the clutch pulley before
making the final air gap check.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed,
check that the compressor clutch coil is performing to
specifications. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CON-
DITIONING/CONTROLS - FRONT/COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). If
the clutch coil is performing to specifications, per-
form the compressor clutch break-in procedure. This
procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction
surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch
torque capability.
(1) Set the heater-A/C controls to the A/C mode,
with the blower switch in the highest speed position.
(2) Start the engine and hold the engine speed at
1500 to 2000 rpm.
(3) Cycle the compressor clutch On and Off about
twenty times (five seconds On, then five seconds Off).
REMOVAL
The refrigerant system can remain fully charged
during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement.
Although the compressor assembly must be removed
from its mounting, the compressor clutch can be ser-
vice with the compressor in the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
2.4L - REMOVAL) or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - 3.3/3.8L - REMOV-
AL).
(4) Disconnect the engine wire harness connector
for the compressor clutch coil from the clutch coil pig-
tail wire connector on the top of the compressor.
(5) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines, dis-
engage the retainer on the engine wire harness com-
pressor clutch coil take out from the bracket on the
top of the compressor.
(6) On models with the 2.4L engine, remove all of
the compressor mounting screws except the upper
left (rear of the compressor) screw, which should only
be loosened. Allow the front (pulley end) of the com-
pressor to tilt downward far enough to access the
clutch for removal, then tighten the loosened upper
left compressor mounting screw.
(7) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
remove the three screws and one nut that secure the
compressor to the engine. Disengage the mounting
ear at the front of the compressor from the stud on
the engine, allow the front (pulley end) of the com-
pressor to tilt downward far enough to access the
clutch for removal, then reinstall and tighten the
upper left compressor mounting screw.
(8) Remove the compressor shaft bolt (Fig. 13). If
necessary, a band-type oil filter wrench or a strap
wrench can be placed around the clutch plate to aid
in bolt removal.
(9) Tap the clutch plate lightly with a plastic ham-
mer and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) from
Fig. 13 Compressor Shaft Bolt and Clutch Plate
1 - COMPRESSOR SHAFT BOLT
2 - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE
24 - 18 CONTROLS - FRONTRS
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)

packing from around the compressor shaft in the
compressor front cover. If the felt is saturated with
oil, the compressor front shaft seal is leaking and the
compressor will also have to be replaced.
(3) Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness
or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the clutch
pulley and clutch plate if the bearing is faulty.
INSTALLATION
The refrigerant system can remain fully charged
during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement.
Although the compressor assembly must be removed
from its mounting, the compressor clutch can be ser-
vice with the compressor in the vehicle.
(1) Align the dowel pin on the back of the clutch
coil with the hole in the compressor front cover, and
position the clutch coil onto the compressor. Be cer-
tain that the clutch coil pigtail wires are properly ori-
ented and routed so that they are not pinched
between the compressor front cover and the clutch
coil.
NOTE: A new snap ring must be used to secure the
clutch coil to the compressor. The bevel side of the
snap ring must face outward.
(2) Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or
equivalent), install the external snap ring that
secures the clutch coil to the front cover of the com-
pressor (Fig. 16). The bevel side of the snap ring
must face outward and both snap ring eyelets must
be oriented to the right or the left of the clutch coil
dowel pin location on the compressor. Be certain that
the snap ring is fully and properly seated in the
groove.
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the
groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch fail-
ure and severe damage to the compressor front
cover.
(3) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
clutch coil pigtail wire connector bracket and ground
clip to the top of the compressor housing.
(4) Install the pulley onto the front cover of the
compressor. If necessary, tap the pulley gently with a
block of wood placed on the pulley friction surface
(Fig. 17).
CAUTION: Do not mar the friction surfaces of the
pulley.
NOTE: A new snap ring must be used to secure the
clutch pulley to the compressor. The bevel side of
the snap ring must face outward.(5) Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or
equivalent), install the external snap ring (bevel side
facing outward) that secures the clutch pulley to the
front cover of the compressor (Fig. 15). Be certain
that the snap ring is fully and properly seated in the
groove.
(6) If the original clutch plate and clutch pulley
are to be reused, reinstall the original shim(s) on the
compressor shaft against the shoulder (Fig. 14). If a
new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are being used,
install a trial stack of shims 1.0 mm (0.040 in.) thick
on the compressor shaft against the shoulder.
(7) Install the clutch plate onto the compressor
shaft.
(8) Install and tighten the compressor shaft nut
(Fig. 13). If necessary, a band-type oil filter wrench
or a strap wrench can be placed around the clutch
plate to aid in bolt tightening. Tighten the bolt to
17.5 N´m (155 in. lbs.).
(9) If a new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are
being installed, the air gap between the clutch plate
and clutch pulley must be checked. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS -
FRONT/COMPRESSOR CLUTCH - STANDARD
PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH AIR GAP).
(10) On models with the 2.4L engine only, loosely
install the four screws that secure the compressor to
the mounting bracket on the engine. Tighten the
screws to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 17 Install Clutch Pulley
1 - PULLEY ASSEMBLY
2 - WOOD BLOCK
24 - 20 CONTROLS - FRONTRS
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)

(11) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines
only, loosely install the three screws and one nut that
secure the compressor to the engine. Tighten each of
the fasteners using the following sequence to 54 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.).
²The upper screw at the rear of the compressor.
²The lower screw at the rear of the compressor.
²The lower screw at the front of the compressor.
²The upper nut at the front of the compressor.
(12) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines
only, engage the retainer on the engine wire harness
compressor clutch coil take out with the bracket on
the top of the compressor.
(13) Reconnect the engine wire harness connector
for the compressor clutch coil to the coil pigtail wire
connector on the top of the compressor.
(14) Reinstall the serpentine accessory drive belt
onto the front of the engine. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - 2.4L -
INSTALLATION) or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - 3.3L/3.8L - INSTAL-
LATION).
(15) Lower the vehicle.
(16) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(17) If a new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are
being installed, the new clutch components must be
burnished. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/CONTROLS - FRONT/COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH - STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRES-
SOR CLUTCH BREAK-IN).
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH COIL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL
The air conditioning compressor clutch coil electri-
cal circuit is controlled by the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM) through the compressor clutch relay,
which is located in the Intelligent Power Module
(IPM) in the engine compartment near the battery.
Begin testing of a suspected compressor clutch coil
problem by performing the preliminary checks.
PRELIMINARY CHECKS
(1) If the compressor clutch will not engage, verify
the refrigerant charge level. (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - FRONT/RE-
FRIGERANT - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -
REFRIGERANT CHARGE LEVEL). If the refriger-
ant charge level is OK, go to Step 2. If the refriger-
ant charge level is not OK, adjust the refrigerant
charge as required.
(2) If the a/c compressor clutch still will not
engage, disconnect the headlamp and dash wire har-
ness connector for the A/C pressure transducer andcheck for battery current at the connector with the
engine running and the heater-A/C control set to the
A/C mode. If OK, go to TESTS . If not OK, use a
DRBIIItscan tool to perform further diagnosis. Refer
to the appropriate diagnostic information.
TESTS
(1) Verify the battery state of charge. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(2) Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale
selected) in series with the clutch coil feed terminal.
Connect a voltmeter (0 to 20 volt scale selected) to
measure voltage across the battery and the clutch
coil.
(3) With the heater-A/C control in the A/C mode
and the blower at low speed, start the engine and
allow it to run at a normal idle speed.
(4) The compressor clutch should engage immedi-
ately, and the clutch coil voltage should be within
two volts of the battery voltage. If the coil voltage is
not within two volts of battery voltage, test the
clutch coil feed circuit for excessive voltage drop. If
the compressor clutch does not engage, use a
DRBIIItscan tool to perform further diagnosis. Refer
to the appropriate diagnostic information.
(5) With the ambient temperature at 21É C (70É F),
the compressor clutch coil is acceptable if the current
draw is 2.0 to 3.7 amperes at 11.5 to 12.5 volts at the
clutch coil. If the voltage is more than 12.5 volts, add
electrical loads by turning on electrical accessories
until the voltage reads below 12.5 volts.
(a) If the compressor clutch coil current reading
is zero, the coil is open and must be replaced.
(b) If the compressor clutch coil current reading
is four amperes or more, the coil is shorted and
must be replaced.
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY
DESCRIPTION
The compressor clutch relay (Fig. 18) is a Interna-
tional Standards Organization (ISO) micro-relay.
Relays conforming to the ISO specifications have
common physical dimensions, current capacities, ter-
minal patterns, and terminal functions. The ISO
micro-relay terminal functions are the same as a con-
ventional ISO relay. However, the ISO micro-relay
terminal pattern (or footprint) is different, the cur-
rent capacity is lower, and the physical dimensions
are smaller than those of the conventional ISO relay.
The compressor clutch relay is located in the Intelli-
gent Power Module (IPM), which is in the engine
compartment near the battery. See the fuse and relay
layout map molded into the inner surface of the IPM
RSCONTROLS - FRONT24-21
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)

system control switch on the front heater-A/C control
is not in the Off position. The blower motor can only
be turned off by turning off the rear system at the
front heater-A/C control. The blower motor receives
battery current whenever the rear blower motor
relay is energized. The rear blower motor relay out-
put circuit is protected by a fuse in the Intelligent
Power Module (IPM) located in the engine compart-
ment near the battery. In the MTC system, the
blower motor speed is controlled by regulating the
path to ground through the blower control switch and
the blower motor resistor. In the ATC system, the
blower motor speed is controlled by an electronic
blower power module, which uses a pulse width mod-
ulated input from the ATC module and feedback from
the blower motor to regulate the blower motor
ground path it provides. The blower motor and wheel
are used to control the velocity of air moving through
the rear heater-A/C unit housing. The blower motor
controls the velocity of the air flowing through the
rear heater-A/C housing by spinning the blower
wheel within the housing at the selected speed or, in
the ATC system, at the selected or programmed
speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR BLOWER
MOTOR
BLOWER MOTOR INOPERATIVE
(1) Check the fuse (Fuse 12 - 25 ampere) in the
Intelligent Power Module (IPM). If OK, go to Step 2.
If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as
required and replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Be
certain that the rear heater-A/C control power is
turned on. Check for battery voltage at the fuse
(Fuse 12 - 25 ampere) in the IPM. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, proceed to diagnosis of the rear blower
motor relay. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-TIONING/CONTROLS - REAR/BLOWER MOTOR
RELAY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(3) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Disconnect the rear HVAC wire harness connector for
the rear blower motor resistor (Manual Temperature
Control) or the rear blower power module (Automatic
Temperature Control) from the resistor or module
connector receptacle. Reconnect the battery negative
cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Be
certain that the rear heater-A/C control power is
turned on. Check for battery voltage at the fused
rear blower motor relay output circuit cavity of the
rear HVAC wire harness connector for the rear
blower motor resistor (MTC) or the rear blower
power module (ATC). If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK,
repair the open fused front blower motor relay output
circuit to the IPM as required.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Disconnect the rear blower motor pigtail wire connec-
tor from the take out and connector of the rear
HVAC wire harness (MTC) or the connector recepta-
cle of the rear blower power module (ATC). Use
jumper wires to connect a battery and ground feeds
to the blower motor pigtail wire connector. The
blower motor should operate. If OK with MTC, pro-
ceed to diagnosis of the rear blower motor resistor.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
CONTROLS - REAR/BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). If OK with ATC, use a
DRBIII scan tool to diagnose the rear blower power
module. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic informa-
tion. If not OK with MTC or ATC, replace the faulty
rear blower motor.
BLOWER MOTOR NOISE OR VIBRATION
Refer to the Blower Motor Noise/Vibration Diagno-
sis chart (Fig. 4).
24 - 56 DISTRIBUTION - REARRS
BLOWER MOTOR (Continued)