ECU DATSUN 610 1969 Owner's Manual

Page 82 of 171


the
steel
balls
and
the
sleeve

yoke
for

damage
or
wear
Renew

the
boots
and
the
sleeve

yoke
plug
0

ring
if

necessary
Renew

the
universal

joint
jf

faulty

Check

the

play
in
the
drive
shaft

using
a
dial

gauge
as

shown
in

Fig
H
18
The
measurement
taken
with
the

dri
le

shaft

fully

compressed
should
not

exceed
O
lmm
0
004
in

Renew
the
drive
shaft
as

embly
if
the

specified
value
is
not

obtained

Oean

the
old
grease
from

the
sleeve

yoke
and
the
drive

shaft
ball

grooves
and
lubricate
with
oil

Asse

bly
of

the
drive
shaft

is
a

reversal
of
the

dismantling

procedure
noting
the

following
points

Align
the

yokes
and
make
sure
that

the
steel
balls

and

spacers
are
fitted

in
the
correct
order
Select
a

snap
ring
which

will

adjust
the
axial

play
of

the

universaIjoints
to
within
0
02mm

0
0008
in

Snap
rings
are
available
in

four
thicknesses
of

1
49
1
52
1
55

and
1
58
mm

0
0587
0
0598
0
0610

0
0622
in

Apply
a

generous

quantity
of
multi

purpose
grease
to
the

ball

groove
and
the
area
shown
in

Fig
H
19

REAR
AXLE
Removal
See

Fig
H
2

Estate
car
and
Van

Jack

up
the
vehicle
at
the
rear

and

support
it
on
stands

Remove

the
road

wheels
and
brake

drums
I

3
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the

brake

pipe
Plug
the

end
of
the
hose
to

prevent
the

ingress
of

foreign
matter

4
Disconnect
the
handbrake
rear
cable
from

the
balance

lever

assembly

5
Disconnect

the

propeller
shaft
from
the
differential

flange

Release
the
lower
shock
absorber

self

locking
nuts
and

slide

the

mounting
eyes
of
the
shock
absorber
from
the

rear

spring
seat

pivot

6

Support
the
rear

axle
with

ajack
loosen
the
U
bolts
and

remove
the
nuts
from
the
rear

spring
shackles
Withdraw

the
shackles
from
the

spring
eyes

7
Remove
the
V
bolt
lock
nuts

completely
and
lower
the

jack
to

withdraw
the
rear
axle

assembly

REAR
AXLE

Dismailtling
and

Inspection

Disconnect
the
brake

pipes
from

the
wheel
cylinders
and

remove

the
brake

pipe
and
three

way
connector
Remove
the

cross
rod

clamp
and
the
balance
lever
from
the
rear
axle
case

Remove
both
cross
rod

ends
from
the

wheel

cylinder
lever

assembly

Unscrew
the
oil
drain

plug
and
drain
the
oil
from
the
axle

case
into
a
clean
container
The
oil

may
be
re
used
if
it
is
in

good
condition

Remove
the
nuts

securing
the
brake

backplate
to
the
axle

case
and
draw
out
the
axle
shaft

assembly
with
the

backpl
te

and
grease
catcher
A

sliding
hammer

ST
36230000
should
be

used
for
this

operation
as
shown
in

Fig
H
2Q

The

bearing
collar
can
be
removed
with
a

press
or

by

cutting
with
a
cold
chisel

and
the

bearing
withdrawn
with
the

puller
ST
3712001
as
shown
in

Fig
H
2t
Remove
the
brake

backplate
and
withdraw

the

gear
carrier
from

the
axle
case

Check
the
axle
shafts
for

straightness
wear
and
cracks

00
NOT

attempt
to

straighten
a
bent
shaft

by
heating
Check

the
oil
seal
lips
for

signs
of

damage
or
distortion
Make
sure

that

the

bearing
is
not
worn
or

damaged
REAR
AXLE

Assembly
and
Installation

Assembly
is
a
reversal
of
the

removal

procedure
noting
the

following
points

Thoroughly
clean
all

parts
and
fit
a
new

gasket
between

the
axle
case

and

gear
carrier

Tighten
the
nuts
in
a

diagonal

pattern
and
to

the

specified
torque
readings

Fit

the
grease
catcher

bearing
spacer
bearing
and
new

bearing
collar
onto
the
axle
shaft
A
load
of
4
5
tons
will

be

required
to

press
the

bearing
onto

the
shaft

Insert
the
wheel

bearing
with
the
seal
side

facing
the

wheel
and
ensure
that
the

oil
seal

lips
are
coated
with
wheel

bearing
grease
prior
to

fitting

Check
and

adjust
the
axial

play
between
the
wheel

bearing

and
the
axle

housing
using
a

dial
gauge
as

shown
in

Fig
H
22

The
axial

play
should
be

adjusted
to
within
0
3
0
5mm

0
0118
0
0197
in

on
the
1400
and
1600cc

models
and
to

within
O
lmm
0
0039
in
on

the
1800cc
models

Fill
the
rear
axle
with
the

specified
amount
of

oil
and

bleed
and

adjust
the
brake

system
as
described
in

the

appropriate

section

REAR
SPRING
Removal
and

Inspection

Estate
cars
aud
Vans

The
rear

springs
can
be
removed
in
the
following
manner

Jack

up
the

vehicle
at
the

rear
until
the
wheels
are
clear

of

the

ground
and

place
stands
under
the
rear
frame

Disconnect
the
shock
absorber
from

the

spring
seat

Fig
H
21a
and

support
the
rear
axle

housing
with

ajack

3
Take
off

the
locknuts

and
remove

the
U
bolts
shown

arrowed
in

Fig
H
2t
the

spring
seat
location

plates
and

seat

pads

4
Remove
the
nuts

securing
the
front
bracket
to
the

body

remove
the
bracket
from

the

spring
eye
and
car

body
and

withdraw
the
rear

spring

5
Remove

the

upper
and
lower

rear
shackle
nuts

Fig
H
23

and
remove
the
rear

spring
from
the
vehicle

Clean
the

spring
leaves

thoroughly
and
examine

them
for

fractures
or
cracks
Renew
the

assembly
if

necessary

Check
the
front

pin
shackle
U
boIts
and

spring
seat

for

signs
of
wear
cracks
and

damaged
threads
Renew
the

components
as

required

REAR
SPRING
Installation

Installation
of
the
rear

spring
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal

procedure
noting
the
following

points

The
front
bracket

pin
front
bracket

bushing
shackle

pin

and
shackle

bushing
should
be
coated
with
a

soapy
solution

prior
to

assembly

Tighten
the
front

pin
securing
nut

and
the
shock
absorber

lower

securing
nut
with
the
vehicle

weight
resting
on
the
rear

wheels

Ensure

that
the
flange
of

the
shackle

bushing
is

clamped

evenly
on
both
sides

The

tightening

torque
values
can

be
found

on
the

page

entitled
TIGHTENING

TORQUES

81

Page 88 of 171


the
castle
nut
and
detach
the
tie
rod
from
the
knuckle
arm

5
Remove
the
tension
rod

securing
nuts

Fig
J
7
remove

the
bolts
and
withdraw
the
tension
rod
Withdraw
the
nut

shown
arrowed
in

FigJ
8
and
remove
the
stabilizer

6

Support
the

engine
with
suitable

lifting
tackle
so
that

the

engine
mounting
bolts
can

be
removed
and
the

suspension

crossmember
detached
from
the

engine
FigJ
9

7
Place

ajack
under
the
crossmember
Remove
the
bolts

indicated
in

Fig
J
IO
and

separate
the
crossmember
from

the

body

8
Remove
the
strut

assembly

upper
attachment
self

locking

nuts
at
both
sides
Fig
J
ll

and
lower

the
front

suspension

assembly
to
remove
it
from
the
vehicle

FRONT
AXLE
AND
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
Installation

Installation
is
a
reversal
of

the
removal

procedure
noting

the

following
points

Make
sure
that
all
rubber

parts
are
free
from
wear
and

deterioration

Any
part
of

the
suspension
assembly
which
has

been

damaged
or
distorted
must
be

replaced
The
front
wheel

alignment
should
be
checked
after

completing
the
installation

a
brief

description
is

given
at
the
end
of
this
section
Camber

and
castor

angles
are

preset
and
cannot
be

adjusted

SPRING
AND
STRUf
ASSEMBLY
Removal
and
Installation

The
strut

assembly
consists
of
the
outer

casing
piston
rod

piston
rod

guide
and
cylinder
etc
An

exploded
view
of
the

components
is

given
in

Fig
J
12

The
inner

components
must

be
replaced
as
a

complete

assembly
Replacement
and
overhaul

procedures
for

the
inner

components
together
with
the
removal
of
the
front

springs

should

only
be
carried
out

by
a
specialist
Datsun

workshop

The
strut

assembly
can
be
removed

prior
to

dismantling
by

following
the

procedures
outlined
below

Jack

up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and

support
it
on
stands

2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
strut

assembly
bracket

as

previously
described
under
the

heading
FRONT
AXLE

and
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
Removal

3
Remove
the
stabilizer
bar
and
tension
rod
from
the
trans

verse
links
Loosen
and
remove

the
knuckle
arm

fixing

bolts

Fig
J
9
And

separate
the

strut
assembly
from
the

ball

joints

4
Remove
the
strut

assembly

upper
attachment
self

locking

nuts

Fig
J
11
and
withdraw
the
strut

assembly
from

the

body
Fig
J
13

Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal

procedure
Ensure

that
the
bolts
are

tightened
to

the
specified
torque
readings

given
under
TIGHTENING

TORQUES
SPRING
AND
STRUT
ASSEMBLY

Dismantling
and

Assembly

Care
must
be
taken
when

dismantling
the
assembly
to

ensure

that
aU

parts
are
maintained
in
a
clean
condition

Clamp
the

suspension
strut

assembly
in
a
vice
and
fit
the

special
attachment
ST
2770000
I
to
the
lower
end
of
the
strut

Prise
off
the
dust
cover

snap
ring
Use
the
coil

spring
compressor

ST
35650001
to

slightly

compress
the

spring
Remove
the
self

locking
nut
and
take
off
the
mounting
insulator
thrust
bearing

spring
seat
and

bump
rubber
Slacken
the

spring
compressor
and

remove

the

spring
Push
down
the
shock
absorber

piston
until
it

bottoms
and
remove

the

gland
packing
with
the

special
tool

ST
35500001

Fig
J
14
Remove
the
O

ring
from
the

piston

rod

guide
and
lift
out

the
piston
rod
and

cy
linder

assembly

00
NOT

separate
the

piston
and

cylinder
which
are
serviced

as
a

complete
assembly
Drain
all
fluid
from
the

suspension
unit

and
shock
absorber

assembly
Wash
all

parts
thoroughly
not

rubber

parts
in

petrol
or
a
suitable
solvent

The

gland
packing
and
0

ring
must
be
renewed
at

each

overhaul

Always
refill
with
the
correct

grade
of
fresh
oil
in

accordance
with
the
information
in
the
table
below

ATSUGI
KAYABA

Part
No

54302
UO
100

UOl10
325
cc
332
cc

54302
3
U0500
1

54302
N
1200
325
cc
300
cc

The
oil

quantity
is
extremely
critical
as
it
will
affect

the

damping

power
of
the
shock
absorber

To
assemble
fit
the
rubber
O

ring
on
the

top
of
the

piston

rod
and
refit
the

gland
packing
Take
care
that
the
oil
seal
does

not
become

damaged
during
the
latter

operation
Lift
the

piston

rod

up
by

approximately
90
mm
3
5
in
before

tightening
the

gland
packing
to
facilitate

bleeding
then

tighten
the
packing

to
a

torque
reading
of
7
13

kgm
51
94Jb
ft
Bleed
the

shock
absorber
by
pumping
the

piston
rod

up
and
down
until

the

pressure
is
the
same

in
both
directions

Position
the
coil

spring
bump
rubber

spring
seat
and
dust

cover
on
the

top
of
the

piston
rod
The

piston
rod
must
be
in

the

fully
extended

position
Compress
the

spring
fit
the
strut

mounting
insulator
and

bearing
assembly
Tighten
the
self

locking
nut
to
a

torque
reading
of

6
7
5

kgm
43
541b
ft

SPRING
AND
STRUT
ASSEMBLY
Installation

Installation
is
a
reversal
of

the
removal

procedure

Thoroughly
grease
the

parts
marked
in

Fig
J
15
Tighten
the

fixing
bolts
to
the

torque
readings
given
in
TIGHfENING

TORQUES

TRANSVERSE
LINK
AND
LOWER
BALL
JOINT
Removal

The
transverse
link
with
rubber

bushing
is
connected
to

the

suspension
crosSlTIember

by
a

mounting
bolt
as
shown
in

Fig
J
11
and
to

the
strut

assembly
via
the
lower
ball

joint

87

Page 89 of 171


Removal
from
the
vehicle
can
be
carried
out
in
the

following

manner

Jack

up
the
front
of
the

vehicle
and
support
it
on
stands

2
Remove
the
stabilizer
bar
and
tension
rod
from

the

transverse
link
as

previously
described
Remove
the
knuckle

arm

fixing
bolts
and

separate
the
ball

joint
from

the
strut

asse
m

bly

3
Remove
the
transverse
link

mounting
bolt

Fig
J
16
and

detach
the
transverse

link
from

the
suspension
member

Remove
the
cotter

pin
from
the
knuckle
arm
castle
nut

and
remove
the
knuckle
arm
from
the
ban

joint
Unfasten
the

ball

joint
securing
nut
and
withdraw
the
ball

joint
from
the

transverse
link

r
The

bushing
can

be
withdrawn
from
the
transverse
link

using
a

press
and
the

special
tools
shown
in

Fig
J
17

TRANSVERSE
LINK
AND
LOWER
BALL
JOINT

Inspection

The
transverse
link

bushing
is
shown
in
Fig
J
18
If
the

rubber
and
inner
tube

joints
are
melted
or
cracked
the

complete

transverse
link

assembly
must
be

replaced

The
ban

joint
cannot
be
dismantled
and
should
be

replaced

if
the
dust
cover

is

split
or
if
the
axial

play
of
the

joint
exceeds

1
0
mm
0
039
in
Oleck
the
axial

play
with
a

spring
balance

The
force

required
at

the

cotterpin
hole
pOsition
is
between

6
6
1
I
3

kg
15
25
lb

Lubricate
the
ball

joint
with
multi

purpose
grease
every

50
000
km
30
000
miles
or
two

year
whichever
comes
first

A
grease

nipple
must

be
installed
in

place
of
the

plug
See

Fig
J
19
and
the
old

grease
completely
replaced
If
a

high

pressure
grease
gun
j
used
make
sure
that
the

grease
is

injected

slowly
and
is
not
forced
out

through
the

joint
clamp

Remove
the
grease

nipple
and

replace
the

plug

TRANSVERSE
LINK
AND
BALL
JOINT
Installation

Installation
is
a
reversal
of

the
removal

procedure
noting

the
following
points

Remove
all
rust
from
the
transverse
link

bushing
interior

with
a

piece
of

emery
cloth
The

bushing
and
transverse
link

bore
should
be
wetted
with

soapy
water
so
that
the

bushing

can
be
more

easily
inserted

Fit
the

bushing
into
the
transverse

link

using
the

special

tool
ST
36700000

Adjust
the

bushing
inner
tubes
so
that
the

distances
from
the
transverse
link
collar
ends
are

equal
at
both

sides

88
Install
the
lower

ball

joint
on
the
transverse
link
and

tighten
the
installation
bolt
to
a

torque
reading
of
1
9

5kgm

14
18Ib
ft

Oean
the
knuckle
arm
and
the
ball

joint
stud
install
the

knuckle
arm
on
the
ball

joint
and

tighten
the
castle
nut
to
a

torque
reading
of
5
5
74

kgm
4o
53Ib
ft
fit
the

cotterpin

and
bend
it
over

Apply
sealing
agent
over
the
ball

joint
castle

nut
to

prevent
the
formation
of
rust

Locate
the
knuckle
arm
beneath
the
strut

assembly
and

tighten
the

mounting
bolts
to
a

torque
reading
of
4
9

63kgm

35
46Ib
ft
Make
sure
that
the
shorter
of
the
bolts
is
fitted

at
the
front

Install
the
transverse
link
on
the

suspension
crossrnember

and

temporarily
tighten
the
mounting
bolts
Make
sure
that
the

nut

faces
the
front
of

the
car
and
not

the
bolt
head
Fit
the

tension
rod
and
stabilizer
bar

Lower
the
vehicle
and
remove
the

jack
Tighten
the
trans

verse

link

mounting
bolts
to
a

torque
reading
of
9
0
10
0

kgm

65
72
Ib
ft
with
the
vehicle
unladen

FRONT
WHEEL
ALIGNMENT

The
castor

and
camber

angles
are

preset
and
cannot

be

adjusted
If
the

angles
do
not

conform
with
the

fIgures
in

Techni
al
Data
then
a
check
must
be
made
for

damage
to
the

uspenSlon
system
Wheel

alignment
is
carried
out
with
the

tyres

mflated
to
the
correct

pressures
and
with
the
vehicle
on
a
level

surface
The
toe

in
should
be
checked
and

adjusted
if

necessary

by
slackening
the
locknuts

FigJ
20

and

turning
the

track
rods

by
an

equal
amount

until
the
correct
toe
in
is
achieved
The

standard

length
between
the
ball

joints
is
309
5
mm

12
19
in

for
the
1400
and
1600
cc
models
and
105
5
mm
4
14
in
for

the
1800
cc

models

ADJ
USTING
THE
STEERING
ANGLE

The

steering
angle
at
the
full
lock

positions
must
be

checked
with
the
front
wheels

placed
on
a
turntable

Adjust

ment
can
be
made

changing
the

length
of

the
stopper
bolt

shown
arrowed
in

FigJ
21
The
clearance
between
the

tyre

and
tension
rod
should
be
30
mm

1
181
in
or
more
and
can

be
increased
if

necessary
by
extending
the
length
of
the

stopper

bolt
The
bolt

length
should
not
exceed
27
5
mm
1
083
in

when
the
adjustment
is

completed

Steering
angle
figures
are

given
in
Technical
Data

at
the

end
of
this
section

Page 92 of 171


SteerIng

DEsn
IPTION

S
i
EERlNG
MaintenaDce

STEERING
WHEEL
AND
STEERING
GEAR

Removal
and
Installation

STEERING
GEAR

Dismantling

STEERING
GEAR

Inspection
and
Adjustment

DESCRIPTION

A
worm
and

recirculating
ball

type
steering
system
is

fitted
to

the
vehicle
the

component
parts
of
the

steering
gear

are
shown
in

Fig
K
I

The

steering
linkage
consists
of
the
centre
tie
rod

pitman

ann
idler
arm
outer
tie
rods
and
the
knuckle
arms
as
shown

in

Fig
K
2

A

collapsible
steering
column
assembly
can
be
fitted
to
the

vehicle
to

protect
the
driver
from

injury
in
a
head
on

collision

Details
of
this

type
of

assembly
are

given
under
the

appropriate

heading

STEERING
Maintenance

O1eck
the
oil

level
in
the

steering
box
every
10
000
km

6
000
miles
and

top
up
with
recommended
lubricant
if

necessary

Grease
the

steering
linkage
every
50
000
km
30
OOO

miles
It
will
be

necessary
to

replace
the

plug
in
the
tie
rod
ball

joints
with
a

grease
nipple
for
this

operation
as

previously

described
in
the
section
FRONT
SUSPENSION

Use
a

grease
gun
to

completely
replace
the
old

grease
with

new

grease
making
SUfe
that
the

grease
is
not
forced
from
under

the
cover

clamp
if
a

high

pressure
gun
is
used

STEERING
WHEEL
AND
STEERING
GEAR
Removal

1
Take
out
the

retaining
bolts
and
remove
the
horn
ring

remove
the

steering
wheel
nut

Fig
K
3
and

pull
off

the

steering
wheel
The
special
tool
ST
27180000
should
be

used
if
available

2
Disconnect
the

battery
leads
remove

the
steering
column

shell
covers

and
the
turn

signal
and

lighting
switch
assembly

3
On
vehicles
fitted
with

steering
column

gear
change

assemblies
the

gear
lever
must
be
removed
from
the

control
rod

assembly
Unscrew
the
retaining
boltg
and

disconnect
the

gear
lever

4
Remove
the
bolts
from
the

steering
column

upper
clamp

Fig
K
4
and
the
bolts

holding
the
lower

plate
Fig
K
5

5
If
the
vehicle
is
fitted
with

steering
column
gear
change

remove
the

cotterpin
from
the
trunnion
and
detach
the

gearchange
rod
and
selector
rod
from
the

change
lever
and

selector
lever
STEERING
GEAR

Assembly
and

Adjustment

COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING

COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING
Removal
and

Inspection

COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING
Installation

STEERING
LINKAGE

6
Remove
the
bolts

securing
the

steering
gear
housing
to

the
car

body
Fig
K
6
and

pull
the
steering

gear
towards

the

engine
compartment

Remove
the
gearchange
control
from
the

steering
gear

assembly
as
described
in
the
section
GEARBOX

STEERING
WHEEL
AND
STEERING
GEAR
Installation

Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal

procedure
When

the
installation
has
been
completed
make
sure
that
the

steering

wheel
can

be
turned

smoothly
and
is
correctly
aligned
The

free
travel
of
the

steering
wheel
should
be
between
2S
30mm

0
9B
1
18
in
Tighten
the

steering
wheel
locknut
to
a

torque

reading
of
4
0
5
0

kgm
29
36Ib
ft
and
the

steering
column

upper
clamp
and
plate
bolts
to
a

torque
reading
of
1
3
1
8

kgm

94
1
3
Ib
ft

Ensure
that
the

steering
box
is
topped
up
to
the
correct

level
with
recommended
lubricant

STEERING
GEAR

Dismantling

Remove
the

pitman
arm

retaining
nut

and
pull
out
the
arm

The

special
puller
ST
27140000
should
be

used
if
available

Remove
the
drain

plug
from
the

steering
gear
housing
and

drain
the
oil

Slacken
the

adjusting
screw
nut
and
turn
the
sector
shaft

adjusting
screw
a
few
turns
in
the
anti
clockwise
direction

Remove
the
sector

shaft
cover

retaining
bolts
and

pull
the

sector
shaft
cover
and
sector
shaft
from
the
gear
housing
Fig

K
7

Remove
the
bolts

securing
the
column

jacket
to
the

gear

housing
and

carefully
withdraw
the
main
column
jacket
assembly

from
the
gear
housing
Fig
K
B

NOTE
The
ball
must
not
be
allowed
to
run
to
either
end
of

the
worm
or
the
ends
of
the
ball

guides
will
be

damaged

Pull
the
column
assembly
from
the
column
jacket
Remove

the
sector
shaft
oil
seal
and
take
out
the
rear

bearing
outer

race

from
the
column

jacket
with
a
suitable

puller

Withdraw
the

bearing
inner
races
from

the
front
and
fear

worm

bearings

Remove
the
column
shaft

bearing

91

Page 94 of 171


STEERING
GEAR

Inspection
and

Adjustment

Thoroughly
clean
all

parts
and
examine
them
for

signs

of
wear
or

damage
Replace
any
comIK
nent
found
to
be
un

satisfactory

It
is
advisable
to
renew
the
assemblies
if
the

steering
column

or
ball
nut

assembly
is
defective
as

the

adjustment
procedures

required
to
overhaul
the
units
are
rather
involved

The

dismantling
and

adjustment
procedures
for
the
ball

nut

assembly
can
be
carried
out
in

the
following
manner
if
it

is

decided
that
overhaul
procedures
are
to

be
carried
out

Ball
nut

Remove
the
ball

guide
tube

clamp
withdraw
the

guide

tubes
from
the
ball
nut
and
collect
the
steel
balls

Turn
the
nut

upside
down
and
rotate

the
steering
column

backwards
and
forwards
until
all

36
steel
balls
have

dropped

out
of
the
ball
nut
Pull
the
ball

nut
from
the
column

Inspect
the
ball

guide
tubes

and
make
sure

that

they
are

not

damaged
Pay
particular
attention

to
the
ends
of
the
tubes

that

pick
up
the

balls
from
the
helical

path
Renew
the
tubes
if

they
are

unsatisfactory
Check
the
steel
balls
and

the
ball
nut

for
wear
and

replace
the

complete
unit
if

necessary

Assemble
the
ball
nut
on

the
worm
with
the
ball

guide

holes

upwards
Drop
18
balls
into
each
of

the
two
holes
on
the

same
side
of
the
ball
nut

until
all
36
balls
are
installed
The

column
should
be

gradually
turned

away
from
the
hole

being

filled
and
if
the
balls
are

stopped
by
the
end
of
the
column
hold

down
those

already
installed
with
a

clean
rod
or

punch
while

turning
the
column
several
times
in
the
reverse
direction
The

filling
of
the
circuit
can
then
be
continued
but
it

may
be

necessary
to
turn
the
column
backwards
and
forwards

holding

the
balls
down
first
in
one

hole
and
then
the
other
to
close
the

spaces
and

completely
fill
the
circuit

Place
the

remaining
22
balls
in
the
ball

guide
halves
11

balls
for
each
half
Fit
the
other
half
of

the

guide
tube
to
each

f11led
half

hold
the
two
halves

together
a
ld

plug
each

open
end

with
vaseline
to

prevent
the
balls

falling
out

Push
the

guide
tubes
into
the

ball
nut

guide
holes
and

assemble
the

guide
tube

clamp

Inspection

Oteck
the
axial

clearance
between
the
ball
nut
and
the

balls
If
the
clearance
exceeds
0
08
mrn
0
003
in
the

complete

unit
must
be
replaced
Inspect
the

gear
teeth
of
the

sector

shaft
for
wear
or

damage
Replace
any
worn
or

imperfect

bearings
Examine
the

steering
column
shaft
for

straightness

and
check
that
the
maximum
deflection
does
not
exceed
0
2mm

0
008
in
at

point
C
in

Fig
K
9
when
the
shaft

is

supported

at

points
A
and
B
Check
the
sector
shaft
and

steering

column
shaft
serrations
for
wear
Renew
the

parts
as

necessary
STEERING
GEAR

Assembly
and

Adjustment

Grease
the

lip
of
the
oil
seal
and

press
it
into
the

housing

Insert
the
column

assembly
into

the
column

jacket
and
fit

the
worm

bearing
shims
to
the

gear
housing
Install
the

flange

securing
bolts
and

tighten
them
to
a

torque
reading
of

1
8

2
5

kgm
13
18lb
ft
If
a

new
column

bearing
assembly
is

fitted
it
must
be
filled
with

bearing
grease
and
cemented
to
the

column

The

preload
of
the
worm

bearing
can
be

adjusted
by

altering
the
thickness
of
the
worm
bearing
shim
Four
shim

thicknesses
are
available
in
sizes
of
0
76
0
254
0
127
0
050mm

0
0300
0
100
0
005
in
0
002
in

This

adjustment
check
is
carried
out
without

the
sector

shaft
fitted
and
with
the
worm

bearings
oiled

Install
the

steering
wheel
as
shown
in

Fig
K
9
use
a

spring

balance
as
indicated
to
check
that
the
force
required
to
turn

the
wheel
is
between
4
0
8
0

kg
cm
56
l120z

inch

Select
a
suitable
shim
from
the
sizes

given

Assemble
the
selector
shaft

adjuster
with
a
shim
into
the

sector
shaft
Measure
the
end
clearance
of
the

adjuster
with
a

feeler

gauge
as

shown
in
Fig
K
1
O

The
correct
clearance
is
0
01
0
03mm
0
0004
O
0012in

and
can
be

adjusted
by
varying
the
thickness
of
shim
Four

thicknesses
of
shim
are
available
as

follows

1
57
mm
0
0618
in

1
55
mm
0
0610
in

1
52
mm
0
0598

in

1
50
mm
0
0591
in

To
assemble
the
sector
shaft
into
the
gear
housing
rotate

the
column

by
hand
until
the
ball
nut
is
at
the
central

position

of
its
travel
so
that
the
centre
tooth
of
the
sector
shaft
enters

the
centre
tooth

space
of

the
ball
nut
Fit
a
new

gasket
and

push

the

sector
shaft
cover

and
sector
shaft
into

place

Ensure
that
a
certain
amount
of

play
is

present
between

the
rack
and
sector
teeth
before

tightening
the
cover

bolts
to

a

torque
reading
of
1
5
2
5

kgm
10
9
18
llb
ft

Temporarily
lock
the

adjusting
screw
with

the
locknut

Move
the
sector
shaft
several
times
from

the

pitman
arm
side

to
make
sure
that
it
turns

smoothly

Connect
the

pitman
arm
to
the
sector
shaft

taking
care

that
the

alignment
marks
on

the
arm
and
shaft
coincide

Adjust
the
backlash
with

the
steering
in

the
central

position
using
a
dial

gauge
as
shown
in

Fig
K
II
Turn
the

adjusting
screw
with
a
screwdriver
until
the
amount
of
free

movement
at
the

top
of
the

pitman
arm
is

within
O
lmm

0
0039
in
at
a

radius
of

127
mm
5
0
in
Lock
the

adjusting

screw
with
the
locknut
Fig
K
12
and
recheck
the
free
move

ment

Fill
the

steering
gear
housing
with
the
correct
amount
of

recommended
lubricant

Refit

the

steering
gear
to
the
vehicle
as

previously
described

Make
sure

that
the
steering
wheel
is

correctly
aligned
and
that

93

Page 96 of 171


the

system

operates
smoothly

COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING

The

collapsible
steering
column
is

designed
so
that

compression
occurs
when
the
vehicle
is
involved
in
a

head
on

collision
See

Fig
K
13

Two
forces
can
be
considered
when
a
collision
of
this

type
takes

place
These

being
the

primary
force
in
which
the

forward
motion
of
the
car
is

suddenly
halted
and
the

secondary

force

as
the
driver
continues
in

a
forward
direction
onto
the

steering
wheel

and
column
The

collapsible
column
is

designed

so
that
it
does
not
move
to
the
rear
i
e
into
the

driving
com

partment
when

the

primary
force
or
forward

motion
of
the
car

is

suddenly
halted
When
the

secondary
force
takes

place
as

the
driver
is
thrown
forward

the
column

jacket
gradually

collapses
and

partially
absorbs
the
amount
of

impact

The

collapsible

type
of
column
is
no
more

susceptible
to

damage
than
an

ordinary
column
when
it

is
installed
in
the

vehicle
however
when
a

collapsible
column

is
removed
it
must

be

carefully
handled
A

sharp
blow
on
the
end
of
the
shaft
or

gear
change
levers

dropping
or

leaning
on

the

assembly
can

cause

the
column

jacket
to
bend

particularly
at
the
bellows

part
which
absorbs
the
shock

The

steering
movement
is
transmitted

by
the

lower
shaft

and

upper
tube
The
lower
shaft
exterior
and

upper
tube

interior
are

tightly
fitted

together
with
four

plastic

pins
com

pletely

eliminating

any
gap

When
a
collision
occurs
the

plastic
pins
shear

and
the
lower

shaft
enters

the

upper
tube
this
action
will
cause
the
shaft
end

to

spread
and
the
lower
shaft
cannot

then
be
withdrawn
unless

an

extremely
high
load
is

applied

The
shaft
is

prevented
from

moving
towards
the
drivers

compartment
when
the

primary
force

takes

place
i

e
when

the
forward
motion
of
the
vehicle
is

suddenly
halted

by
the

three

stoppers
on

the

jacket
tube
The

steering
lock
collar

mounted
to
the
shaft
contacts

the
stoppers
and

prevents
a
rear

ward
movement

A
part
of

the

jacket
tube
is

specially
formed
to
act
as
an

energy
absorbing

part
of
the

collapsible

steering
The

upper

and
lower

guide
tubes

joined
with

polyacetal
resin
are

inserted

into
the
mesh
tube
so
that

energy
generated
by
a

collision
can

be
absorbed
as

smoothly
as

possible
with
a

low
load

The

steering
column

clamp
shown
in

Fig
K
14
is
secured

to

the

jacket
tube
and

body
by
bolts
with
two
aluminium

slidings
blocks
set
to
the

body
by
plastic
pins
An

impact
from

the
drivers
side
causes

the

plastic
pins
to
shear

and
leave
the

sliding
block
in
the
column

clamp
side

allowing
the

clamp
to

move
with
the

jacket
as
it

collapses

COLLAPSffiLE
STEERING
Removal

and

Inspection

Steering
Wheel

I
Disconnect
the

battery
earth
cable

2
Disconnect
the
horn

wiring
and

remove
the
horn

pad
3
Remove
the

steering
wheel
nut

using
the

special
puller

ST

27180000

Eig
K
15
Remove
the
column
shell
covers

Fig
K
16
and
the
turn

signal
switch

assembly

Column
shaft

4
Remove
the
cotter

pin
and
detach
the
shift

rod
Automatic

Transmission
Remove
the
bolt

securing
the
worm
shaft

and

coupling
Fig
K
17

5
Take
out

the
bolts

securing
the
column
tube

flange
to
the

dash

panel
and
the
bolts

securing
the
column

clamp
With

draw
the

steering
column
shaft
towards
the
car
interior

A
careful
check
should

be
made
to
ensure

that
the

assembly

is
not

damaged
in

any
way

Pull
out
the
lower
shaft

tap
the
column

clamp
towards

the

steering
wheel
end
and
remove

the
screws

securing
the

upper
and
lower
tubes

Separate
the

upper
and
lower

tubes

Remove
the

snap
ring
from

the

upper
end
of
the
column

pull

the

upper
jacket
down
and

separate
it
from
the

upper
jacket

tube

Take
care
not
to

damage
the

bearing
Remove
the

plain

washer

and

spring
from
the

upper
shaft

Check
the

column

bearings
for

damage
and
lack
of
smooth

ness

Apply
multi

purpose
grease
to
the

bearing
if

necessary

Inspect
the

jacket
tubes
for

signs
of
deformation
renew
the

tubes
if

necessary
Check
the
dimension

A
in

Fig
K
1B
to

make
SUfe
that

the

jacket
has
not
been
crushed

Check
the

dimension
B

Fig
K
14

COLLAPSffiLE
STEERING

Assembly
and
Installation

Assembly
is
a
reversal
of

the

dismantling
procedure
noting

the

following

points

Lubricate
the
column

bearing
the

spring
and
dust
seal

sliding

parts
Ensure
that
the

upper
shaft

steering
lock
hole
and

the

steering
lock
are

correctly
positioned
Fig
K
19
When

assembling
the
lower
shaft
take
care
to

coincide
the
notch
on

the
universal

joint
with

the

punched
mark
on
the
shaft

Coat
the

upper
and
lower
shaft

serrations
with
multi

purpose

grease
Set
the

steering
in
the

straight
ahead

position
and
fit

the

column
shaft
to

the

steering
gear
See

Fig
K
20
Insert
the

column

through
the
dash
board

and
install
it
to
the

gear
so
that

the

punch
mark
at
the

top
of

the
shaft
is
forced

upwards
Slide

the

universal

joint
to

the

steering
gear
and

temporarily
install

the
column

clamp
6
Fit

the
lower
cover

flange
7
and

tighten

the
column

clamp
bolts

Check
the

steering
wheel

alignment
with
the
wheels
in
the

straight
ahead

position
If
the

steering
wheel

and

steering
lock

are

misaligned
by
more
than
35
mm

I
4
in
from
the
vertical

position
femove

the

steering
wheel
and
re
centre

it

STEERING

LINKAGE
Removal

Jack

up
the
front
of
the

vehicle
and

support
it
on

stands

2
Remove
the

cotterpins
and
castle
nuts

fastening
the
tie
rod

ball

joints
to
the
knuckle
arms

95

Page 97 of 171


I

Fig
K
16

Removing
the
column
sheD
covers
inter
i
mj

rD
1
f

1

A
iJI1i

j
j
r

I

I

s
Ii

i

FIg
K
15

Removing
the

steering
wheel
Fig
K
l7

Removing
the
rubber

coupling

securing
bolt

1
bclttt
ube

2
Column

clamp
Fig
K
19

Steering
lock
installation

Fig
K
18
The
standard
dimension
between

coluDDl
clamp
and
lower

jacket

J

A
6

c
V
1

Rubbt
r

coupling

2

Steen
column

3
Worm

1

4
Dash

ptmd

5

ColUmrl
3hDf

6

Colli
clamp

7
Lowt
r

jacket
flangt

FIg
K
20

Installing
tbe

steering
column

assembly

96
f
ftb

Fig
K
21
The
outer
tie
rod
ball

joint

I

I

t

I

Fig
K
22
The
centre
tie
rod
ball

joint

Page 100 of 171


BrakIng

System

DESCRIPTION

MASTER
CYLINDER
Removal

dismantling
and
Overhaul

BRAKE
LINES

Replacing

BRAKE
WARNING
LIGHT
SWITCH

FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE
Removal

inspection
and
Overhaul

REAR
DRUM
BRAKE
Removal

inspection
and
Overhaul

FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE

Adjusting

DESCRIPTION

The
vehicle
is
fitted
with
either
disc

brakes
or
two

leading

shoe

type
drum
brakes
for
the
front
wheels
and

leading
trailing

shoe

type
drum
brakes
for

the
rear

wheels

All
brakes
are

hydraulically
operated
from
the
brake

pedal

with
the
rear
brakes

additionally
operated

by
a
mechanical

handbrake
and

linkage
system
Either
a

single
or
a
tandem

master

cylinder
can
be
fitted
The
tandem
master

cylinder

provides
a
dual

braking
circuit
in
which
the
front
and
rear

brakes
are

separately
supplied
If
ODe
circuit
fails
the
other

circuit
will

still

operate
and
provide
a
reduced
but
efficient

braking
action

The
brake

pipes
are

double
wall
steel
tubes
and
are

galvanized
at
the
sections
beneath
the
vehicle
floor
to

prevent

corrosion

MASTER

CYLINDER
Removal

Either
a

tandem
or

single
master

cylinder
can

be
fitted

to

the
vehicle

Fig
L
I
shows
a
cross
sectional
view

through
the

tandem
master

cylinder
and

Fig
L
2
a
cross

sectional
view

through
the

single
master

cylinder
The
removal
and

dismantling

procedures
are

similar
for
both

types
and
are

carried
out
in

the

following
manner

1
Remove
the
clevis

pin
and

separate
the
brake

pedal
from

the
master

cylinder
push
rod

2
Disconnect
the

brake
tubes
from

the
master

cylinder

3
Remove

the
master

cylinder
mounting
bolts
withdraw

the
shims
and
take
out
the
master

cylinder
assembly

MASfER
CYLINDER

Dismantling
and
Overhaul

Drain
the
brake
fluid
from
the

cylinder
and
remove
the

stopper
bolt
Remove
the

dust
cover

the

snap
ring
the

stopper

ring
and
the

pusbrod
assembly

Take

out
the
primary

piston
and

secondary
piston

assemblies
and
the

piston
spring

Remove
the
valve

cap
and
take
out
the
valve

assembly

Oean
all
the

components
with
brake

fluid
and
check

them

for
wear
or

damage
Make
sure
that
the

cylinder
bore
and

piston
are
not

damaged
or

unevenly
worn

The
clearance

between

cylinder
and

piston
must
not
exceed
0
15mm
0
006

in
REAR
DRUM
BRAKE

Adjusting

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction

pads

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Removal
and

Dismantling

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE

Assembly
and
Installation

HANDBRAKE
Removal
and
Installation

BLEEDING
THE
HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM

BRAKE
PEDAL
ADJUSTMENT

Check
the
return

springs
for

damage
or
loss

of
tension

Replace
any
part
which

is
in
an

unsatisfactory
condition

MASfER
CYLINDER

Assembly
and
Installation

Assembly
of
the
master

cylinder
is
a
reversal
of
the

dismantling
procedure
noting
the

following
points

Wet
the

cylinder
bore
and

piston
etc

with
brake
fluid

before

assembling
Care
must
be
taken
to

prevent
dust
and

foreign
matter

entering
the

cylinder
and
reservoir
Ensure
that

cups
and
soals
are
not

damaged
when

locating
them

After
the
master

cylinder
is
reinstalled
the

system
must

be
bled
and
the

pedal
height
adjusted
as
described
under
the

appropriate
headings

BRAKE
LINES

Replacing

The

layout
of
the
metal
brake

pipes
and
flexible

hoses
is

shown
in

Fig
L
3

The
brake

pipes
can

be
removed

by
taking
off
the
flare

nuts
at
both
ends
of
the

pipe
and

removing
the

clips
securing

the

pipe
to

the

body
Similarly
the
brake
hoses
can
be
removed

by
taking
off
the
flare
nuts

Thoroughly
clean
the

pipe
or
hose
after

removing
from

the
vehicle
and
check
for

collapsing
cracking
or

rusting
of

the

pipe
and
for

signs
of

expansion
and

weakening
of
the
hose

Any
pipe
or
hose
which
is
not
in
a

satisfactory
condition
must

be
renewed
Remove

any
dust
from
the
brake

clip
and
replace

the

clip
if
the

vinyl
coating
is
torn

Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal

procedure
Make

sure
that
the
brake

pipes
cannot
vibrate

against
any
part
of

the
vehicle
and
the
brake
hoses
are
not
twisted
and

rubbing

against
the

tyres
or

suspension
units
If
the
brake
hose
is

disconnected
from

the
three
way
connector
on

the
rear
axle

housing
it
will
be

necessary
to
fit
a
new

copper
sealing
washer

Do
not

overtighten
the
installation
flare
nuts

the
correct

tightening
torques
are
as
follows

Three

way
connector
master

cylinder
and
brake
hoses

1
5
1
8

kgm
II
13Ib
ft

Fill
the
master

cylinder
with
recommended
fluid
and
bleed

the

system
as
described
under
the

appropriate
heading
Make

sure
that
fluid
is
not

leaking
from

any

part
of
the

system
by

fully
depressing
the
brake

pedal
for
several
seconds
Check
the

pipes
and
connections
and

replace

any
defective

part

99

Page 104 of 171


brake
shoe
is
in
contact
with
the
drum
The

adjuster
must
be

turned
from

the
rear
of

the

backplate
and
the
drum
turned

by

hand

When
the
shoe
contacts
the
drum
turn
the

adjuster
in

the

opposite
direction
until
the

shoe
is

just
clear
and
the
drum

can

be
rotated

freely
by
hand

Depress
the
brake

pedal
and
make
sure
that
the
brakes

operate
correctly
The

adjusters
must

be
released

slightly
if

the

brake
shoe
binds

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction

pads
Fig
L
14

The
disc
brakes
are
self

adjusting
but
the
friction

pads

should
be
checked
for
wear

every
5
000
km
3
000
miles
and

replaced
if
the
thickness
of

the
friction

lining
on

any

pad
is
less

than
1
0mm
0
004
in
In
effect
this
means
that
renewal
is

necessary
when
the
total
thickness
of

pad
and

lining
is
less
than

8
4mm
0
24
in

To

replace
the
friction

pads
proceed
as

follows

Siphon

out
some
of
the
fluid
in
the
master

cylinder
reservoir
Jack

up

the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
remove

the
road
wheel

Remove
the
anti
rattle

clip
from
the

calliper
plate
Fig
L
lS

Unhook
the

hanger
spring
and
withdraw
the
brake

pads

and
shims

Fig
L
17

It
should
be
noted
that
the
friction

pads
must
be

replaced

as
a
set
and
renewed
at
both
sides
of
the
vehicle
otherwise
the

braking
action
will
be
uneven

Oean
the

calliper
and

pad
at

their
installation

positions

Press
the

pistons
into
the

calliper
bores
so
that
the
new
friction

Pads
can
be
installed
The

pistons
can

be
installed

by
applying

light

pressure
as
shown
in

Fig
L

16
but
care
must

be
taken
to

avoid

pushing
them
too
far
or
the

groove
of
the

piston
will

damage
the
seal

If
the

pistons
are

pushed
down

excessively
it
will
be

necessary
to
dismantle
the

calliper
as

described
under
the

appropriate
heading

Assemble
the

anti

squeal
shims
to
the
friction

pads
with

the
arrow
mark
on
the
shims

pointing
in
the
direction
of

forward
disc
rotation

Refit
the

pads
and

retaining
pins
and
assemble
the
coil

spring
to

the

retaining
pin
furthest
away
from

the
air
bleed
screw

After

installing
the
new

pads
and
shims

depress
the
brake

pedal
several
times
to

reposition
the
pistons
in
the

calliper

O1eck
the
fluid
level

in
the
master

cylinder
reservoir
and
refill

to
the
correct
level

FRONT
DISC

BRAKE
Removal
and

Dismantling

1
Jack

up
the
front
of

the
vehicle
remove
the
road
wheel

and
take
out

the
friction

pads

2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
brake

tube
and

plug

the

opened
end
to

prevent
the
loss
of
fluid
3
Remove
the
bolts

securing
the
brake

calliper
to

the

knuckle

flange
and
remove
the

calliper
assembly
Fig
L
IS

4
Remove
the
hub
nut

and
withdraw
the
hub
and
disc

To
dismantle
the
calliper
remove
the
anti
rattle

clip
and

withdraw
the
brake

pads
Remove
the
tension

springs
and

pull

the
cylinder
out
of
the

calliper
Blow
out

the
piston
with
com

pressed
air

applied
at

the
brake
hose
connection

Oean
the

components
in
brake
fluid
and
examine
them

for

signs
of
wear
or

damage

The

cylinder
walls
can

be
carefully
polished
with
fine

emery
cloth
if

they
are
rusted
or
contaminated
If
the

parts

are

excessively
corroded

they
should
be
renewed

Replace
the

pistons
if

they
are

unevenly
worn

damaged

or
rusted
The
sliding
surface
of
the

piston
is

plated
and
no

attempt
should
be
made
to

use

emery
cloth
or
similar
abrasives

for

cleaning
purposes

Check
the
thickness
of
the
friction
pads
as

previously

described
and
replace
them
if

necessary
Renew
the

piston
seals

and
the
dust
covers

O1eck
the
brake
disc
for

scoring
and
out
of
round
The

standard
disc
thickness
is
10
Omm
0
0394
in
and
must
not

be

reground
below
8
4mm
0
3307
in

Check
the
disc
run
out
with
a
dial

gauge
as
shown
in

Fig

L
19
Position
the
gauge
near
the
outer
diameter
and
check
that

the
run
out
does
not

exceed
0
06mm
0
0024
in

FRONT
BRAKE
DISC
Assembly
and
Installation

Rinse
the

cylinder
bore
with
brake
fluid
and
fit
the

piston

seal
into
the

cylinder

groove
Fig
L
20
Fit
the
wiper
seal
and

lightly
grease
the
bore
of
the

cylinder
Clean
the
brake
disc

and
fit
it
to
the
hub
Install
the
hub
to
the
knuckle

spindle

Carefully
insert
the

piston
into
the

cylinder
until
the
face

of
the

piston
is
almost
flush
with

the

wiper
seal
retainer
The

relieved

part
of
the

piston
should
face
the

piston
pin

Fit
the
cylinder
to
the

calliper
plate
and
secure
in

position

with
the
two
torsion

springs
Assemble
the
hold
down
pin

the

spring
washer
and
the
nut
to

the

support
bracket
Secure

the
nut

with
a
cotter

pin

Assemble
the

calliper
to

the
mounting
bracket

using
the

pivot
pin
washer

spring
washer
and
nut

Tighten
the
nut
and

secure
with
a
cotter

pin
Hook
the
hold
down
bracket
to
the

top
of
the

mounting
bracket
and
turn
the

calliper
plate
to

make

sure

that
it
can
slide

smoothly
Fit
the

calliper
assembly
to
the

knuckle

flange

Fit
a
shim
to
the
inner

pad
and
insert
the

pad
Draw
the

calliper
towards
the
chassis
and
insert
the
lower
cuts
on

the

pad

into
the

mounting
bracket
and

push
the

pad
in
until
it
contacts

the

piston
Move
the

calliper
away
from
the
chassis
and
insert

the

upper
cuts
Centre
the
indentation
of

the
outer

pad
in
the

calliper
plate
Fit
the
anti
rattle

clip
Fig
L
14

103

Page 106 of 171


HAND
BRAKE
Removal

The
mechanical
handbrake

linkages
are
shown
in

Figs
L
21

1
22
and

1
23

1400
and
1600cc
models

Front
cable

Release
the
hand
brake
and
disconnect
the
front
cable

by

removing
the
clevis

pin
from
the
lever
Unscrew
the

adjusting

nut
from
the
rear
of
the
front
cable

Fig
L
24
Remove
the

cable
from

the
hand
brake
lever

Remove
the

clamp
holding
the
cable
to
the
under
body

Pull
out
the
lock

plate
holding
the
front
cable
to
the
retainer

and
completely
withdraw
the
cable
Withdraw
the
cable

by

unfastening
the
outer

casing
which
is

pressed
into
the
handbrake

control
bracket

Handbrake
lever

Fig
1

25

Remove
the
clevis

pin
connecting
the
lever

yoke
and
lever

Remove
the
clevis
pin
connecting
the
control

guide
and
the

control
bracket
Lift
out
the
handbrake

assembly

Rear
cable
Saloons

Remove
the

adjusting
nut

from
the

adjuster
Fig
L
26

and
disconnect
the
left
hand
rear
cable
from
the
handbrake

adjuster
Pull
out
the
lock

plates
and
remove
the
clevis

pin

connecting
the
cables
to
the
levers
of
the
rear
wheel

cylinders

Rear
cable
Estate
car
and

rigid
axle
saloon

Remove
the
clevis

pin
from
both
ends
of

the
rear
cable

Remove
the
connecting
rods

by
extracting
the

puU
off
springs

and
clevis

pins

1800cc
models

Handbrake
lever

Disconnect
the
terminal
from
the
hand
brake

warning

switch
Remove
the
nuts

securing
the
control
bracket
to

the

dashboard
Pull
out

the
lock
pin
and
cotter

pin
and
withdraw

the
handbrake
lever

assembly

Front
cable

Remove
the
return

spring
and
loosen
the

adjuster
10cknuL

Detach
the
front
cable
from
the
handbrake
lever
Remove
the

nuts

securing
the
cable
to
the
dashboard

Fig
L
27
and
with

draw
the
cable
towards
the

engine

Rear
cable
Saloon

Disconnect
the

cable
at
the

adjuster
and
detach
the
return

spring
from
the
centre
lever

See
Fig
L
28
Remove
the
cable

lock

plates
from
the
rear

suspension
Remove
the
clevis

pin

attaching
the
cable
at
the
rear

wheel

cylinder

Rear
cable
Estate
car

and
Van

Unfasten
the

pull
spring
and
remove
the
clevis

pins
at
the

balance
lever
and
wheel

sides

Fig
L
29
Detach

the

connecting

rod
Remove
the
nut

securing
the

connecting
rod
balance
lever

and
the
lever
from
the
rear
axle

housing
HANDBRAKE
Installation

Check
the
cables
for

signs
of
deterioration

fraying
etc

Examine
the
handbrake
lever
and
ratchet
for
wear
and
renew

as

necessry

Check
the

springs
for
evidence
of
weakness
and
make
sure

that
the
balance
lever
and
bushes
are

satisfactory

Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Make

sure

that
all
sliding

parts
are

greased

Adjust
the
hand
brake
in
the

following
manner

Release
the
hand
brake
and

adjust
the
rear
brake
shoes
as

previously
described

The
1400
and
1600cc
Saloon
handbrake
is

adjusted
to

give
a
lever
stroke
of
85
95mm
3
34
3
74
in

by
setting

the

adjusting
nuts

Fig
L
24
The
lever
stroke
on
the
estate

car
should
be

adjusted
to
50
75mm
2
0
3
0
in

by
turning

the

adjuster
shown
in
Fig
L
30

Adjust
the
1800cc
models
to

give
a
handbrake
lever
stroke

of

90
100
mm
3
5
3
9in

by
turning
the

adjuster
2
in

Fig
L

28

Retighten
the
locknut
after

adjusting

BLEEDING
THE
HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM

The
hydraulic
system
must
be
bled
if
the
circuit
has
been

opened
at

any
point
or
if

the
level
of
the
fluid
in
the
master

cylinder
reservoir
has
fallen
too

low
allowing
air
to
enter

the

system

Bleeding
is

usually
a
two
man

operation
as
assistance
will

be

required
to
work
the
brake

pedal
The
master

cylinder

reservoir
must
be

topped

up
constantly
throughout
the

operation

whilst
a
check
is
carried
out
on

the
fluid

expelled

Bleeding
should
be
carried
out
at
the
master

cylinder
nrst

then
from
the
brake
furthest

away
from
the
master

cylinder

and

working
round

finally
to

the
brake
nearest
to
the
master

cylinder
Bleeding
should
therefore
be
carried
out

in
the
follow

ing
order
Rear
left
wheel
rear

right
wheel
front
left
wheel

front

right
wheel

Oean
the
area
round
the
master

cylinder
cover
take
off

the
cover

and

top
up
the
reservoir
if

necessary
Clean
the
rele

vant

air
bleed
screw
and
take
off
the

cap

Attach
a
suitable
hose
to
the
bleed
screw
and

place
the

free
end
of

the
hose
in
a

glass
jar
containing
brake
fluid

Open
the
bleed
screw
and

depress
the
brake

pedal
to
allow

the
fluid
to
enter
the

glass
container

Tighten
the
bleed
screw

when
the

pedal
is
fully
depressed
and
allow
the

pedal
to
return

Repeat
the

procedure
until
the
fluid
is

completely
free

from
air
bubbles
then

carry
out
the
same
operation
on
the

other
three
wheels

Top
up
the
fluid
in
the
reservoir
to
the
correct
level
but

do
not
re
use
the
fluid

previously
withdrawn
from
the

system

105

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