check engine light FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Owner's Manual

&CASU / # Q StGP 101 The ValV6S i* (/ should slide freely out of
their guides. Any resistance
may be caused by a build up of carbon, or a slight burr
on the stem where the collets engage. This can usually
be removed by careful use of fine wet-or-dry paper,
allowing you to
withdraw the valves
without scoring their
guides. Keep the valves
in their correct order by
wrapping a numbered
piece of masking tape
around each stem.
• Step 12: Clean the
carbon from the valves with
a rotary wire brush and
wash them in paraffin.
Wash the valve springs,
caps, seats and collets and
dry.
/ • Before grinding-in the
valves, clean the tops of the
valve heads back to shiny
metal. Now the sucker on the end of your valve
grinding stick won't keep falling off when you grind-
in the valves!
head. Don't hesitate to seek the advice of your local agent if
you have any doubts.
• Step 14: Examine the valve seats for pitting or burning.
Also, check the valve seats in the cylinder head. Small pits can
be removed by grinding the valves onto their seats. The seats
in the cylinder head will have to be recut (again, by your local
FIAT agent if the pitting is too deep), and new valves fitted.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! These cylinder heads use
hardened valves and seats for use with unleaded petrol.
We advise you to consult your FIAT agent or engine
specialist for machining if anything other than light
valve grinding is required. B
FACT FILE: VALVE GRINDING
• Step 15: Apply a small quantity of
coarse grinding paste evenly round the valve
seat. A valve grinding stick with a suction pad
slightly smaller than the valve head should
be selected. Put a dab of moisture onto the suction pad and
press the grinding stick to the first valve.
• Step 16: Lower
the valve stem into its
guide and, holding the
grinding stick
between the palms of
your hands, rub your
hands together (like a
bushman making a
fire), rotating the
valve and grinding the
two seats together.
Lift the valve
regularly, say every
ten or so turns, to
allow the grinding
paste to be redis-
tributed. When you
can feel the paste
wearing smooth,
remove the valve and
wipe all the surfaces
clean. A complete ring
of grey contact area
should be visible on
the valve head and its
seat in the cylinder head. If necessary, start off with coarse
paste to remove the deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to
obtain a smooth finish.
• Make sure that no paste is allowed to enter the guide. This
would cause a lot of wear to the valve stem and guide.
• A narrow contact band means more seat pressure and
longer life. A wide band allows rapid valve burning.
• A complete ring of grey contact area should be visible on
the valve head and its seat in the cylinder head.
• If necessary, start off with coarse paste to remove the
deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to obtain a smooth
finish.
• If pitting is too bad, you could have the valve face and the
valve seats resurfaced or, in worst cases, the valve and/or valve
seat (in the cylinder head) will have to be replaced.
• Consult your FIAT dealer or engine specialist if in doubt.
LJ Step 11: The cylinder head is made of light alloy and is
easily damaged when being cleaned. Use a rotary wire brush
for the combustion chambers and ports, but no sharp objects
such as screwdrivers should be used. The machined surfaces
must have all traces of old gasket removed by use of a straight
edge. Then wash down with paraffin to remove old oil and
dirt and dry with clean rag.
At all costs, avoid gouging
the cylinder head. This can
be very expensive to have
put right.
• Step 13: The cylinder
head can be checked for
distortion by use of a
straight edge and feeler
gauge. At the same time check for excessive corrosion. If you
are in doubt, or if the old gasket had blown, have the cylinder
head refaced by your FIAT agent or engine specialist. The
valves should be checked for side movement in their guides.
Anything but the very slightest tells you that the valve guides
are in need of replacement. Your local FIAT agent or engine
specialist should do this job. Examine the valve seats for
pitting or burning, also check their mating seats in the cylinder
72

• Step 30: Fit
the crankshaft
pulley and
tighten. See
Chapter 3,
Facts and
Figures.
• Step 31: Fit the
water pump and
distribution pipe.
• Step 32A: Refit the
flywheel. Do not unbolt the
TDC sensor (1) from the oil seal
housing at its mounting plate
bolts
(2)
unless it is essential to
do so.
• Step 32B: If
the sensor
mounting plate has
to be disturbed, you
will need the FIAT
special tool illus-
trated here (inset) in
order to reposition it
correctly. Position
the timing mark on
the crankshaft
pulley with the zero
degrees mark on the outer timing belt cover (and double
check that the timing mark on the flywheel
-
rubber bung
removed
-
is aligned at zero degrees).
With the bracket fitted to the oil seal housing, fit the FIAT
special tool onto the bracket in place of the sensor with a slot
in the tool fitting exactly over the TDC pin on the flywheel.
When everything is lined up, position the bracket accurately
and tighten the bolts. Remove the tool and refit the sensor.
IMPORTANT NOTE: During assembly, a shear-bolt will
have been fitted to prevent accidental movement of the
bracket. If you need to undo it, you will need to drill it
out and you should replace it with a new one obtained
from your FIAT dealership.
• Step 33: Refit the clutch. See PARTB: TRANSMISSION,
Job 4.
Q Step 34: Refit the fuel pump and pushrod using new
gaskets on both sides of the spacer block, 0.3 mm thick
between the spacer and the engine and 0.7 mm between the
spacer and the pump. See PART F: FUEL AND EXHAUST for
information on setting the pump position.
• Step 35:
Lubricate the sealing
ring and screw on a
new oil filter.
• Step 36:
Before refitting the
distributor, (see
PART D: IGNITION)
refit, if necessary,
the oil pump drive
gear.
• Step 37: Refit
all remaining
auxiliary compo-
nents (including the
oil vapour recovery
device, shown here),
using new gaskets
as necessary and
referring to
Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures for the
torque settings.
Q Step 38: Reconnect the engine to the transmission. See
Job 11.
Q Step 39: Refit the complete unit to the car. See Job
9.

• Step 40: fl INSIDE INFORMATION! Before fitting the
spark plugs and with a fully charged battery, turn the
engine on the starter until the oil warning light goes
out. This primes the lubrication system and gives more
immediate oil pressure on initial start up after overhaul-
a critical time in the life of an engine. B
• Step 41: Fit the spark plugs and start the engine
-
this
might take a few seconds more than normal on the initial start
up.
• Step 42: Allow the engine to warm up on fast idle
until
it
reaches working temperature and then slow it down to its
normal speed (if adjustable
-
see PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST)

CRANKSHAFT
• Step 1: TURBO ONLY: Before fitting the crankshaft,
install the four piston sprays (a) and stake the retaining plates
(arrowed).
Q Step 2: Locate the main bearing shells so that they are
firmly seated and their tabs engage with the slots in the
journal webs.
• Step 3: Apply some grease to the smooth side of the
thrust washers and 'stick' them in position on both sides of
the rear main bearing web (at the flywheel end).
• Step 4: Oil the shells liberally with fresh engine oil and
lower the crankshaft into position.
• Step 5: Fit the remaining halves of the shells into the
bearing caps. Oil the journals and position the caps the right
way round and in the correct order.
• Step 6: Screw the bolts in finger-tight and check that the
crankshaft rotates freely and smoothly.
Q Step 7: Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively until
the specified torque setting is reached, see Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures. Check again that the crankshaft rotates
smoothly.
• Step 19:

Lift
the crank-
shaft clear of the
cylinder block,
retrieve the
other halves of

the
bearing
shells...
• Step 20:

...and
the two

thrust
washers

from
the rear
main bearing
web.
• Step 21:
TURBO
ENGINES ONLY.
Unbolt and

remove
the four
piston cooling

sprays
(a) from

the
cylinder
block oil gallery.

The
bearing shell
positions are
arrowed.
Job 24. Diesel engine -
reassembly.
Before starting work, read the notes at the beginning of
Job 6 for petrol engine reassembly
-
the checks and
preparation being basically the same for diesel engines.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! TURBO ENGINES ONLY. The
piston cooling sprays must be checked for serviceability
before refitting. Each spray contains its own valve which

must
open at between 1.25 and 1.75 bar. Below this
figure could cause excessive oil burning and low oil
pressure. Above this figure might result in the piston
overheating and its subsequent failure. Have your FIAT
dealer carry out this check, and replace any faulty units if
necessary. Q
• Step 9: Fit new oil
seals to the two seal
carriers.
• Step 10: Fit the
rear oil seal carrier (with
its new seal), using a
new gasket. Lubricate
the seal (illustration Job

24-9,
part b) and
lightly oil the gasket (a).
• Step 11: Position Nos. 1 and 4 crank pins at Top Dead
Centre (TDC), then fit the flywheel with its TDC mark facing
the cylinder head surface. Screw in the fixing bolts and tighten
to their specified torque. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures
Job 23-21
Q Step 8: Turn and lever the crankshaft tight against the
timing end and check the crankshaft end float by using a
feeler gauge between the thrust washer on the timing side of
the web and the crankshaft. Thicker washers are available if
required. See Chapter
3, Facts and Figures.

U Step 12: Fit a new seal to the front cover/oil pump
assembly, unless a new pump is being fitted, and install with a
new gasket, lightly oiling both gasket and seal. Align the cover
with the sump support plate.
PISTON CONNECTING RODS ASSEMBLIES
• Step 13:
H INSIDE
INFORMATION!
Refer to the illus-
tration and note
that the piston
should be fitted
to the connecting
rod so that when
viewed from the
timing end the
crown lift (1) is
on the right
hand/injection
pump (2) side. At
the same time,
the bore numbers
stamped on the connecting rod (3) should face left, the
opposite side. The piston pins are an interference fit in
the pistons and can be tapped into position using an
ordinary drift and secured with circlips. H
Refer to Job 6. Steps 11 to
18,
for installation procedures.
Q Step 14: Refit the oil pump pick-up and return pipes.
• Step 15: Refit the sump using a new gasket. Check that
the drain plug is tight.
• Step 16: Complete the reassembly by fitting all the
external components in the reverse order of removal. Refer to
Job
15
for cylinder head refitting.
• Step 17: Reconnect the engine to the transmission. See
Job
22

• Step 18: Refit the complete unit to the car. See Job
19

• Step 19: Bleed the fuel system. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Bleeding the fuel system
involves turning the engine on the starter. This should
allow it to gain oil pressure before 'firing up', but check
that the oil light has gone out as soon as the engine
starts. H
Q Step 20: Allow the engine to run at 'fast idle' until it
reaches working temperature and switch off. Allow it to cool
and check the oil and coolant levels and look for any leaks.
Q Step 21: Avoid over-rewing or overloading the engine
during its settling down period of 600 miles. We recommend
an oil and filter change at this mileage
-
this will help to
extend the life of your engine.
PART B: TRANSMISSION
PART B: Contents
Job 1. Transmission removal (with engine in car).
Job 2. Transmission refitting (with engine in car).
Job 3. Clutch
-
replacement.
Job 4. Clutch cable
-
replacement.
Job 5. Gear lever and linkage
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

replacement.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

adjustment.
Job 8. Automatic gear selector control cable
-
replacement.
Job 9. Drive-shaft
-
removal and refitting.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer) constant velocity joint
-

replacement.
Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider joint
-
replacement.
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper
-
replacement.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings
-
replacement.
Job 14. Hydraulic clutch components.
Job 1. Transmission removal
(with engine in car).
IMPORTANT NOTE: This operation is for cars fitted with
the 1400 and 1600cc petrol engines and non-turbo diesel
engines. For the 1930cc turbo diesel engined version the
complete power unit must be removed and then
separated. See PART A, Jobs 18, 19, 21 and 22 for the
removal of several of the ancillaries detailed here.
• Step 1:
Before
starting
work, ensure
that you can
support the
car suffi-
ciently high
off the ground for the gearbox to be removed from beneath.
Make sure that the gearbox-end of the engine is supported
from above the car, or from beneath. You may be able to
fabricate your own version of this FIAT tool (arrowed).

Job 8. Automatic gear selector
control cable - replacement.
• Step 4:
Release the
outer cable
centring bush
from its
housing in the
gearbox.
• Step 5: H INSIDE INFORMATION! To
do this, you will have to make a simple
tool as shown here. There is no FIAT
'special tool'
-
each dealer has to make
this one himself! Use the tool to push
lightly upwards, so that the cable
centring bush (illustration Job
6-4

arrowed) comes out of its seat. B
• Step 6: Fit the new cable in the reverse
order. Use a new gasket when refitting the
sump.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Readjust the cables if
necessary. See Jobs 7 and 8.
Q Step 7: Refill the transmission with
automatic transmission fluid. See Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic
transmission) - adjustment.
Refer to the illustrations in Job 6.
Q Step 1: Check that the slow running speed is correct and
the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted, with just a small
amount of slack.
Q Step 2: Disconnect the kickdown cable from the idler
pulley and ensure that it is perfectly free in its operation.
• Step 3: With the selector lever in 'P', start the engine and
let it idle.
Q Step 4: Pull the inner cable by hand until resistance is felt,
caused by the compression of the valves. The cable end should
now line up with its locating slot in the idler pulley
-
if not,
adjust nuts (7) and (8).
[_l Step 5: Reconnect the cable and then switch off the
engine.
• Step 6: Check that when the accelerator pedal is hard
down, there is
1
mm of further movement left on the
kickdown cable, otherwise, make further adjustments on nuts
(7) and (8).
Refer to illustration Job 6, Step 3.
• Step 1: Raise the car and support it securely on axle stands.
• Step 2: Remove the cover from the gear selection
mechanism and familiarise yourself with the drawing referred
to here.
Q Step 3: Manually select the 'P' (park) position, using the
lever beneath the gearchange (see illustration Job
6-3,
part
6).

• Step 4: Disconnect the cable from the selector eyelet (3)
and detach from the slot in the front end of the bracket (5).
Q Step 5: Disconnect the inner cable from the gearlever (6)
and release the outer casing from its gearbox mounted
bracket (7). Remove the cable.
Q Step 6: Ensure that 'P' (park) is still engaged by moving
the gearlever (6
-
beneath the car) fully rearward.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When 'Park' is properly engaged you
will not be able to turn both front wheels in the same
direction at the same time. This is because the trans-
mission should be 'locked' when 'park' is engaged.
• Step 7: Connect the new cable at the bracket (7) and
then at the bottom of the gear lever (6).
• Step 8: Feed the other end of the cable through to the
inside of the car and fix the outer casing into the slot in
bracket (5).
• Step 9: Put the interior selector lever (2) in the 'P' (park)
position and with the inner cable taut, check that the eyelet
(3) aligns perfectly with the selector pin.
• Step 10: If necessary, slacken the adjustment nut (4) and
adjust the position of the eyelet (3) accordingly. Fit the eyelet
to the pin and tighten the nut (4).
• Step 11: Check that the gears engage in their correct
positions on the selector indicator.
T "I FACT FILE: CHECKING AUTOT
qp- TRANSMISSION SELECTION
EL
-
• Now that you have completed the
installation, and BEFORE USING THE
VEHICLE ON THE ROAD, carry out the
following check:
• The engine should only start when you have selected
either 'P' (park), or 'N' (neutral).
• The gear lever selector positions should agree with
those indicated on the display panel.
• When 'R' (reverse) is selected, the reverse light
should come on. With the ignition switched off, the
buzzer should sound if any position other than 'P'
(park) is selected.
Q Step 12: Refit the selection mechanism cover.
0
Job 6-5

Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider
joint - replacement.
• Step 3: Replace the (split) rubber mounting and refit the
weight.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings -
replacement.
Job 11-1
a - distance - 305 mm b - spider joint c - inner gaiter d - inner bearing seal e
-
vibration damper f
-
outer gaiter
g - circlip h - outer u.j. i - hub mounting spline
• Step 1: Note the arrangement of the inner spider joint
and drive-shaft components.
Q Step 2: Remove the
drive-shaft from the car. See
Job 9.
• Step 3: Remove the
circlip and pull or press the
spider joint from the drive-
shaft.
• Step 4: Remove the inner gaiter (illustration Job
11-1,

part c) from the seal bearing (Job
11-1,
partd). Check the
bearing for wear and smooth operation.
Q Step 5: Replace it if necessary by using a standard type
puller to remove it from the shaft, driving the new one into
position with a suitable length of tubing.
Q Step 6: After obtaining a new spider joint, if necessary,
(available as a complete replacement item from your FIAT
dealership), fit the new gaiter and its retainer to the shaft,
followed by the spider joint and circlip. No lubrication is
required prior to refitting the drive-shaft.
• Step 7: E9 INSIDE INFORMATION! The turbo diesel
uses an inboard CV joint similar to the outer one except
that it has a flange for attachment to the transmission.
(See PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A ) Inspect and
replace in the same way as the outer one. The interme-
diate shaft can only be inspected for wear in its bearing
which cannot be removed separately. Therefore, the
whole unit must be changed if defects are found. Q
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper -
replacement.
Refer to Job
11,
Step 1
Q Step 1: A damper is fitted to the right-hand drive-shaft to
prevent vibration in what is a long drive-shaft. The rubber
mounting can disintegrate or become damaged.
Q Step 2: Use an Allen key to separate the two halves of
the weight.
s * You ™yfind *
" U ' necessary to pull out
gently

on the stub axle and at
the

same time tap lightly (so you don't damage the
thread) on the end of the shaft to knock it through.
• Retrieve the stub axle/hub assembly.
Q Step 7: Use a large vice or a press to push the hub out of
the stub axle.
• Step 8: You may have to remove the bearing inner track
from the hub if it comes out with it.
• Step 2: Partly dismantle the front suspension as described
in Job 9. Steps 2 to 6.
• Step 3: Unbolt the brake caliper and support bracket and
tie it clear.
• Step 1: Take note of the components illustrated here.
Also, see PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION, Job
12

where this work is described in more detail.
Q Step 4: Unbolt the brake disc and shield.
• Step 5: Undo the track control arm to stub axle pinch
bolt and
withdraw the
balljoint pin from
the stub axle.
• Step 6: Ease
the stub axle
(illustration Job

13-1,
parts d
and c, combined)
off the drive-
shaft splines (Job

11-1,
parti)
leaving the
inboard end of the
mission.
drive-shaft still attached to the trans-

PART E: ELECTRICAL ARID INSTRUMENTS
PART E: Contents
Job 1. Alternator
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Rear light cluster
-
replacement.
Job 2. Starter motor
-
removal and refitting. Job 11. Side repeater indicators
-
replacement.
Job 3. Instrument panel
-
removal and refitting. Job 12. Number plate light
-
replacement.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
-
replacement. Job 13. Interior/courtesy light
-
removal and refitting.
Job 5. Windscreen wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 14. Fuel gauge sender unit
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Hatchback wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 15. Central locking
-
replacement of components.
Job 7. Windscreen washer pump
-
replacement. Job 16. Electric windows
-
replacement of components.
Job 8. Radio aerial
-
replacement. Job 17. Diesel engines. Glow plugs
-
checking and
Job 9. Headlight cluster
-
replacement. replacement.
Job 1. Alternator - removal
and refitting.
Job 3. Instrument panel -
removal and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
Q Step 2: Disconnect all the wires from the back of the
alternator
-
the main output wire is released by undoing its
securing nut. Slacken the bolt securing the inboard end of the
adjustment bar, undo and remove the bolt from the alternator
end of the bar. Slacken the drivebelt and remove it.
Q Step 3: On manual steering cars, unbolt and remove the
adjuster bracket from the cylinder block.
Q Step 4: Release the securing buttons and remove the
engine splash shield on power steering cars.
Q Step 5: Undo the nut from the long through bolt and
note the position of the washers. Support the alternator and
remove the bolt, then withdraw the alternator from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order and make sure your
electrical connections are sound. Adjust the drivebelt tension.
See Chapter 5, Servicing Your Car
• Step 1: Disconnect
terminal.
• Step 2: Undo the
screws (arrowed) and
remove the speaker
cover (1).
Job 2. Starter motor - removal
and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
• Step 2:
Undo and remove
all the electrical
connections (a)
from the starter
(b) and starter
solenoid (c).
Q Step 4: Refit in reverse order, ensuring that all connec-
tions are sound.
Q Step 5: Raise the instrument panel enough to unplug
the connectors from the rear. Disconnect the speedometer
drive (if non-electronic type) and remove the instrument
panel from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in the reverse order and be sure that all
connections are properly made.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
replacement.
• Step 1: H INSIDE INFORMATION! The cable comes in
two parts, joined in the middle by a connector (a). Q
• Step 2: Follow Job 3, Steps 1 to 3 Then, lift the
instrument panel
sufficiently so that
you can gain
access to the
cable.
^Jj
Job
4-1

the battery at the negative (earth)
• Step 3: Undo the
exposed screws that
secure the
instrument panel
(arrowed).
• Step 4: Slide
off the screw
cover
(2)
from
the other end of
the instrument
panel and
remove the two
screws found beneath it.
• Step 3:
Undo the three mounting bolts and the wiring harness bracket
from the top bolt and withdraw the starter.

Job 15. Central locking -
replacement off components.
Job 14. Fuel gauge sender unit
removal and refitting.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Carry out this work out of doors, away from sources
of ignition.
• Make the open aperture on top of the fuel tank air
tight as quickly as possible.
• You should carry out this job when the fuel is at a
low level.
VEHICLES WITH ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS
(NOT ENGINE MOUNTED)
Job 16. Electric windows -
replacement of components.
courtesy light lens and/or panel. The connectors are on
the rear of the unit.
• Step 3: The estate car has a rear courtesy light which is
removed as in Step 1 and 2
LJ Step 4: Refit in the reverse order.
PART A: ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT
• Step A1: You
will find the
electronic control
unit
(1)
mounted
beside the
junction unit...
PART A: ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT
• Step A1: Disconnect the battery at the earth terminal.
• Step A2: The
electronic control unit
(1) is mounted directly
on the junction unit to
the left of the foot
pedals. To change it,
simply unplug it and
plug the new one in.
• Step A3:
Reconnect the battery.
PART B: DOOR LOCK SWITCHES AND MOTORS
• Step B1: Both door lock switches and motors are an
integral part of the lock assembly. Therefore, if a fault
develops in either, the complete unit will have to be changed.
See PARTI: BODYWORK AND INTERIOR
• Step A2: ...while the
circuit fuse (2) is on the
junction unit holder. First,
disconnect the battery
earth lead.
• Step A3: Disconnect
the electrical plugs, undo
the securing screws and
withdraw the unit.
• Step A4: Refit in
reverse order.
Q Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
Q Step 2: Lift the luggage compartment floor covering and
prise the round plastic cover from the floor to expose the
sender unit.
Q Step 3: Unplug the sender unit wires and position them
out of the way.
• Step 4: Using the
two opposing lugs on
the unit, (FIAT tool no.
1854045000 or similar
would be useful) twist
it in an anti-clockwise
direction and remove
it from the fuel pipe
housing.
C-) Step 6: Refit in the reverse order.
VEHICLES WITH
ENGINE MOUNTED
FUEL PUMPS
• Step 7: Where a
mechanical fuel pump is
fitted, the sender unit
looks like this. A ring nut
is use to secure it to the
top of the fuel tank.
• Step 5: Check
the condition of the
sealing ring and replace it if necessary.
Job 16-A1

Job 17. Diesel engines - Glow
plugs, checking and replacement.
LI Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead. Undo the
retaining nut at each plug top (a) and remove the bridging
strip (b) from between the glow plugs (complete glow plug -
inset).
• Step 2: With the
wire or connecting strap
removed, unscrew each
plug from the cylinder
head by just a couple of
turns using a ring spanner
(as shown) or socket.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: It is false economy to renew
only one glow plug at a time
-
we recommend a
complete set of new plugs if any one plug is in poor
condition. E9
• Step 6: Refit the glow plugs and tighten to their specified
torque
-
see Chapter 3, Facts and Figures. Over tightening a
glow plug can damage it!
• Step 7: Refit the bridging strip and connect the supply
lead.
17-1
PART B: WINDOW CONTROLS
Q Step B1: Disconnect the battery earth terminal.
Q Step B2: Undo the screw and remove the armrest trim,
then undo the screws fixing the armrest and withdraw it
enough to unplug the wiring. See PARTI: BODYWORK AND
INTERIOR.
• Step 3: Clean away
dirt from around the
plugs, then fully unscrew
and remove them. It's a
good idea to blank off
the plug hole with cloth
to prevent dirt from
entering.
• Step 4: Examine the condition of each plug by wiping
soot away and examining for erosion of the element sheath.
• Step 5: Check the internal resistance of each glow plug
by connecting across a resistance meter. You are looking for a
resistance of 5 ohms or less. If the reading is much higher
than this, or is infinity, the plug must be renewed.
Q Step B4: Refit in the reverse order.
PART C: COURTESY LIGHT/WINDOW LIFT INTERLOCK
SWITCHES
Q Step C3: Refit in reverse order.
PART D: WINDOW OPERATING MOTOR
Q Step D1: The motors are an integral part of the winding
mechanism and therefore can only be changed as a complete
assembly. Refer to PART I: BODYWORK AND INTERIOR
Q Step B3: From inside the armrest, undo the retaining

screws and
detach the control panel from the armrest.
G Step C1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
Q Step C2: Take off the rubber dust cover (3), prise the
switch out of the panel and disconnect the wire.

Job 6. Accelerator cable, petrol
injection engines - replacement
and adjustment.
Q Step 2: From inside the car,
unhook the cable nipple from the
fork (arrowed) at the top of the
pedal arm.
• Step 3: Pull out the bulkhead
grommet and release the cable.
^ • There are many different
cables, so take your old
cable as a pattern when
buying a replacement to make sure the new one is

exactly
the same.
Q Step 4: Refit in the reverse order
-
not forgetting the
grommet in the bulkhead!
Q Step 5: Check that, when the new cable is fitted:
• there
is
just the slightest amount of free-play in the cable
with the throttle closed.
• the carburettor lever is back against its stop with the throttle
fully open.
• Step 1: Slacken the
adjusting nuts (a) on the
outer cable enough to
allow you to disconnect
the inner cable (b) from
the quadrant (c) Remove
the outer cable from its
support bracket (d).
Q Step 2: From inside
the car, unhook the cable
from the top of the accel-
erator pedal, as in Job
4-2.
• Step 3: Pull the grommet out from the bulkhead and
withdraw the cable into the engine compartment.
O Step 4: Refit in the reverse order.
• Step 5: Make sure that the quadrant Job 6-1, part c is
against its stop when at the same time there is no slack in the
cable, allowing free play at the accelerator pedal.
• Step 6: Adjust the cable as necessary and re-check the
quadrant position. Grease the quadrant pivot. See Job 6-1,
arrowed.
Job 7. Diesel engines.
Accelerator cable - replacement
and adjustment.
Job 5. Carburettor choke cable -
replacement and adjustment.
Q Step 2: From inside the car, pull the choke control lever
fully out and undo its top hinge screw.
Q Step 3: Pull the choke cable assembly back far enough to
unplug the warning light lead and release the inner cable from
the lever.
Q Step 4: Pull the cable through the bulkhead.
Q Step 5: Fit the new cable in reverse order. Pull out the
choke lever inside the car by 2 to 3 mm before securing the
inner cable at the carburettor end.
Q Step 1: Part the inner cable end (a) from the balljoint (b)
on the injection pump control lever.
• Step 2: Remove the outer cable from its bracket by
undoing the adjusting
nuts,,
or by disconnecting the clip (c),
according to type.
• Step 3: From inside the car, unhook the cable (d) from
the top of the accelerator pedal.
• Step 4: From under the bonnet, pull out the bulkhead
grommet and withdraw the cable.
Q Step 5: Refit in reverse order and adjust so that the
throttle lever (e) on the pump is allowed to go back to its tick-
CD Step 1:
Remove the air
cleaner See
Chapter 5,
Servicing Your
Car
and
release
the inner(a)
and outer (b)
cables from the
carburettor
screw-nipple
and abutment
clamp respectively.