tow GMC YUKON 2008 Manual PDF

Page 401 of 546

If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or
the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message
with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If the vehicle has an air conditioner and it is on,
turn it off.
2. Turn on the heater to the highest temperature and
at the highest fan speed and open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle immediately.
If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has an
engine-driven cooling fan, push down the accelerator
until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal
idle speed for at least ve minutes while parked.
If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has an
electric cooling fan, idle the engine for ve minutes
while parked.If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get
everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also,
see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode”
later in this section.
You might decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
If an overheated engine condition exists and the
ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED message is displayed,
an overheat protection mode which alternates ring
groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this
mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine
performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle
to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving
extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the
overheat protection mode should be avoided.
Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any
repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and
reset the oil life system. SeeEngine Oil on
page 5-15.
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Page 407 of 546

Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan, when
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear
the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday
driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required.
Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or
high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your
air conditioning system, the fans may change to
high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and indicates that the cooling system
is functioning properly. The fans will change to low
speed when additional cooling is no longer required.
Power Steering Fluid
SeeEngine Compartment
Overview on page 5-14for
reservoir location.
If your vehicle is a
Two-mode Hybrid, see
the Two-mode Hybrid
manual for more
information.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering uid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A uid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
5-39

Page 447 of 546

When rotating your vehicle’s tires, always use the
correct rotation pattern shown here.
Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front
and rear ination pressures as shown on the Tire
and Loading Information label. SeeInflation - Tire
Pressure on page 5-72andLoading Your Vehicle
on page 4-35.
Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. SeeTire
Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-75.Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly
tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-124.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt
off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-88.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push,
pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it
moves, tighten the cable. SeeStoring a Flat or
Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-104.
5-79

Page 455 of 546

Notice:If your vehicle has P265/70R17 size tires,
use tire chains only where legal and only when you
must. Use chains that are the proper size for your
vehicle’s tires. Install them on the rear tires only.
Do not use chains on the front tires.
Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends
securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them. If the contact continues, slow down until
it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on will damage your vehicle.If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
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Page 461 of 546

5. Turn the wheel wrench (E) counterclockwise to
lower the spare tire (H) to the ground. Continue
to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be
pulled out from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire
not to lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on
page 5-100for more information.
6. Use the wheel wrench
hook that allows you to
pull the hoist cable
towards you, to assist
in reaching the
spare tire.
7. Tilt the tire toward the vehicle with some slack in
the cable to access the tire/wheel retainer.
Separate the retainer from the guide pin by sliding
the retainer up the pin while pressing down on
the latch.
5-93

Page 466 of 546

5. Remove all of the
wheel nuts.
6. Take off the at tire.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-88.
7. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
5-98

Page 467 of 546

{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Because the nuts might come loose. The
vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
8. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end
of the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the
spare tire.
9. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the
wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel
is held against the hub.
10. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.
{CAUTION:
Incorrect or improperly tightened wheel nuts
can cause the wheel to come loose and even
come off. This could lead to a crash. If you
have to replace them, be sure to get new
original equipment wheel nuts. Stop
somewhere as soon as you can and have the
nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the
proper torque specication. SeeCapacities
and Specifications on page 5-124for wheel nut
torque specication.
Notice:Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specication. SeeCapacities and
Specifications on page 5-124for the wheel nut
torque specication.
5-99

Page 470 of 546

8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel
wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel
blocks) under the vehicle toward the front of the rear
bumper.9. Position the center lift point of the jack under the
center of the spare tire.
10. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the end tting.
11. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held rmly in place. The
secondary latch has released and the spare tire is
balancing on the jack.
12. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the
spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by
the cable.
5-102

Page 472 of 546

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire
and Tools
{CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the
passenger compartment of the vehicle could
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision,
loose equipment could strike someone. Store
all these in the proper place.
Notice:Storing an aluminum wheel with a at tire
under your vehicle for an extended period of time or
with the valve stem pointing up can damage the
wheel. Always stow the wheel with the valve stem
pointing down and have the wheel/tire repaired
as soon as possible.
Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare
tire carrier. Refer to the following graphics and
instructions to help you:A. Hoist Assembly
B. Hoist Shaft
C. Hoist Shaft Access
Cover/Hole
D. Jack Handle
Extensions
E. Wheel Wrench
F. Hoist Cable
G. Tire/Wheel RetainerH. Spare Tire/Flat
Tire (Valve Stem
Pointed Down)
I. Hoist Shaft
Access Hole
J. Hoist End of
Extension Tool
K. Spare Tire Lock
1. Put the tire (H) on the ground at the rear of the
vehicle with the valve stem pointed down, and to
the rear.
5-104

Page 473 of 546

2. Tilt the tire toward the vehicle. Separate the
tire/wheel retainer (D) from the guide pin. Pull
the pin through the center of the wheel. Tilt the
retainer down through the center wheel opening.
Make sure the retainer is fully seated across
the underside of the wheel.3. Assemble the two jack handle extensions (D) and
wheel wrench (E) as shown.
4. Insert the open end of
the extension (J)
through the hole in the
rear bumper (I) (hoist
shaft access hole).
5. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the
retainer is seated in the wheel opening.
5-105

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