window PONTIAC GTO 2004 Owner's Manual

Speed Dependent Volume (SDV)
With SDV, your audio system adjusts automatically to
make up for road or wind noise as you drive.
This feature will never completely compensate for
driving noise. There are other factors such as road
surface, wind noise, windows open, and engine speed
that may alter the interior noise for any given road
speed.
You can select compensation rates between 0 (off) and
5 (maximum compensation) in the options menu.
See “Options Menu Adjustment” later in this section to
adjust SDV.
Dynamic Distortion Limiting (DDL)
Your radio has a feature that limits the amount of
amplifier distortion that you can hear. When this feature
is turned on, it continuously monitors the quality of
the signal to the speakers. When the signal distortion
exceeds the preset limits the radio will automatically limit
or reduce the volume until the distortion is minimized.
Under some circumstances, distortion may be heard for
a very short period of time until the system has taken
the necessary steps to limit it.
The main source of distortion in music is the low
frequency bass caused by drums or large instruments.
Music that features very strong bass may trigger the
distortion limiting system and the system will then
reduce the volume to minimize the distortion.Increasing the bass control or the EQ boost may also
result in a reduced volume level due to the emphasized
bass. See “Setting the Tone (Bass/Treble)” previously
in this section. The DDL can be turned off so that
the radio will deliver a higher volume level, but distortion
will also be increased.
See “Options Menu Adjustment” later in this section to
adjust DDL.
Options Menu Adjustment
Confirmation beeps, SDV, and DDL can all be adjusted
by doing the following:
1. Turn off the radio by pressing the OFF button.
2. Press the ON button and pushbutton 1 at the same
time until Options Menu appears on the display.
3. Push the AUDIO knob until the correct option
appears on the display.
4. Turn the AUDIO knob to adjust the setting of the
option being displayed.
5. Push the AUDIO knob to select another option or
press the OFF button to exit the options menu.
Your selection will be saved.
If no buttons are pressed or turned for eight
seconds, the radio will automatically exit the menu
and the radio will turn on.
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Backglass Antenna
The AM-FM antenna is integrated with the rear window
defogger, located in the rear window. Be sure that
the inside surface of the rear window is not scratched
and that the lines on the glass are not damaged. If
the inside surface is damaged, it could interfere
with radio reception. Also, for proper radio reception,
the antenna connector at the top-center of the rear
window needs to be properly attached to the post on
the glass.
Notice:Using a razor blade or sharp object to
clear the inside rear window may damage the rear
window antenna and/or the rear window defogger.
Repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Do not clear the inside rear window with sharp
objects.
Notice:Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting with
metallic lm. The metallic lm in some tinting
materials will interfere with or distort the incoming
radio reception. Any damage caused to your
backglass antenna due to metallic tinting materials
will not be covered by your warranty.Because this antenna is built into your rear window,
there is a reduced risk of damage caused by car washes
and vandals.
If you choose to add a cellular telephone to your
vehicle, and the antenna needs to be attached to the
glass, be sure that you do not damage the grid lines for
the AM-FM antenna. There is enough space between
the lines to attach a cellular telephone antenna
without interfering with radio reception.
Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting to the back glass.
The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere
with or distort the incoming radio reception. Care
must be taken when cleaning the rear window because
it breaks in the resistive material heating element
and will adversely affect radio and defogger
performance. See your dealer for details.
3-55

The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed
according to your speedometer, not to your sense
of motion. After driving for any distance at higher
speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower
than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you are not fresh — such as after
a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that
first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing
and shoes you can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you
will find experienced and able service experts in GM
dealerships all across North America. They will be ready
and willing to help if you need it.Here are some things you can check before a trip:
•Windshield Washer Fluid:Is the reservoir full?
Are all windows clean inside and outside?
•Wiper Blades:Are they in good shape?
•Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:Have you checked
all levels?
•Lamps:Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
•Tires:They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
•Weather Forecasts:What is the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a
short time to avoid a major storm system?
•Maps:Do you have up-to-date maps?
4-21

•Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can not see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
4-27

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
“rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but
you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-69.
4-28

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
with the parking brake applied, shift to PARK (P)
or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle while
you get out and check that the cooling fan is
working.
2. If the fan is working and the temperature gauge
needle has not returned to its normal position
within a few minutes, stop the engine and remove
the ignition key.
Look for leaks at the radiator hoses and
connections, heater hoses and connections,
radiator, and water pump. Be careful when checking
these areas as they will probably still be hot. If
you find a major leak or other problems that may
have caused the engine to overheat, do not run the
engine until these problems have been corrected.
If you do not find anything wrong, you should check
the engine coolant level. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-25. You should also check the air intake
area below the front bumper to ensure that it is clear
of leaves and road grime.3. Turn off your air conditioning and turn on your
heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and
open the window as necessary.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine
for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still
have the warning,turn off the engine and get everyone
out of the vehicleuntil it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-30

Power Steering Fluid
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location.
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering
fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid
The fluid level should be checked after the vehicle has
been driven for at least 20 minutes, so that the fluid
is warm. A convenient time is when stopping for
gas. The cold level check should only be used after the
engine has not been running for at least five hours.
However, the hot level check is always recommended.
The fluid level can be viewed through the reservoir.
The level markings are next to the fluid window. When
the fluid is cold the level should be between the
COLD MIN and MAX marks; when the vehicle has been
driven for awhile and the fluid is hot the level should
be between the HOT MIN and MAX marks. If fluid must
be added, undo the cap counterclockwise to the
stop; then the cap can be lifted off. Do not overfill and
remember to replace the cap tightly. If you often need to
add fluid, you should see your dealer. Remember to
secure the cap when the level is correct and clean up
any spillage.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.
Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper
fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
5-36

Tire Terminology and Denitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the tire pressing
outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure
is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:This means the combined weight
of optional accessories. Some examples of optional
accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering,
power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air
conditioning.
Aspect Ratio:The relationship of a tire’s height to its
width.
Belt:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made
from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead:The tire bead contains steel wires that hold the
tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire:A pneumatic tire in which the plies are
laid at alternate angles, less than 90 degrees to the
centerline of the tread.
Cold Ination Pressure:The amount of air pressure in
a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascal (kPa), before a tire has built up heat
from driving. SeeInflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58.Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor
vehicle with standard and optional equipment including
the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but
without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall of a
tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S.
Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety
standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification
Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can
also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant,
brand and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, seeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-30.
GAWR FRT:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front
axle, seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-30.
GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle,
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-30.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when
mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.
There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on light duty
trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
5-56

Notice:When the compact spare is installed, don’t
take your vehicle through an automatic car wash
with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught
on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel,
and maybe other parts of your vehicle.
Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles.
And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with
other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your compact
spare tire and its wheel together.
Notice:Tire chains won’t t your compact spare.
Using them can damage your vehicle and can
damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on
your compact spare.Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some
are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a
match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are
dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed
space. When you use anything from a container to clean
your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s
warnings and instructions. And always open your doors
or windows when you are cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
•Gasoline
•Benzene
•Naphtha
•Carbon Tetrachloride
•Acetone
•Paint Thinner
•Turpentine
•Lacquer Thinner
•Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous — some more than
others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
5-78

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument
Panel
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces
of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones
or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the
windshield and even make it difficult to see through the
windshield under certain conditions.
Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth
or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the
surface finish.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a
liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal
tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-85.
Notice:If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning
glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch
the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window
defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When
cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft
cloth and glass cleaner.
Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
{CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it
may severely weaken them. In a crash, they
might not be able to provide adequate
protection. Clean safety belts only with mild
soap and lukewarm water.
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every
six months. During very cold, damp weather more
frequent application may be required. See
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.
5-81