control arm BMW 3 SERIES 1986 E30 User Guide

Fuel injection system - fault finding
L-Jetronic fuel injection system
Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when cold)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector or thermotime switch faulty Test cold start injector and thermotime switch. Renew faulty components (see Section 19)
Fuel pump inoperative Check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay (see Sections 3 and 4)
Airflow meter flap (door) binding or stuck
in open position Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test system pressure (see Section 3). Test fuel pressure regulator (Section 18)
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts, and oil filler and dipstick seals
Fuel injectors clogged or not operating Check fuel injectors (see Section 20) and wiring harness
Coolant temperature sensor faulty or
wiring problem Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Throttle position sensor (TPS) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Incorrect ignition timing Check ignition timing (see Chapter 5). Check vacuum advance system
Dirt or other contaminants in fuel Check the fuel and drain the tank if necessary
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when warm)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking or operating continuously Test cold start injector and thermotime switch (see Section 19)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel pump(s). Renew if necessary (see Section 3)
Insufficient residual fuel pressure Test residual fuel pressure. Renew fuel pump or fuel accumulator as necessary
(see Section 18)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks. Correct leaks as required (see Chapter 4)
Coolant temperature sensor faulty or
wiring problem Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Vapour lock (warm weather) Check fuel pressure (see Section 3)
EVAP system faulty (where applicable) Check EVAP system (see Chapter 6, Section 6)
Incorrect ignition timing Check ignition timing (see Chapter 5). Check vacuum advance system
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Idle speed control system faulty Test the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
Engine misses and hesitates under load
Probable cause Corrective action
Fuel injector clogged or faulty Test fuel injectors. Check for clogged injector lines. Renew faulty injectors (see Section 20)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel system pressure (see Section 3). Test fuel pressure regulator (see Section 18)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks (see Chapter 4)
Engine maintenance Tune-up engine (see Chapter 1). Check the distributor cap, rotor, HT leads and spark
plugs, and renew any faulty components
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or
stuck in open position Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts and oil filler and dipstick seals
Engine has erratic idle speed
Probable cause Corrective action
Idle air stabiliser valve faulty Check the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
No power to the idle air stabiliser valve Check the idle air stabiliser relay and wiring circuit (see Chapter 12)
Vacuum advance system faulty Check vacuum advance system and electronic vacuum advance relay
Idle speed control unit faulty Have the idle speed control unit checked by a dealer
Motronic fuel injection system
Note:With this system, when faults occur, the ECU stores a fault code in its memory. These codes can only be read by a BMW dealer, as
specialised equipment is required. It may save time to have at least the initial fault diagnosis carried out by a dealer.
Lack of power
Probable cause Corrective action
Coolant temperature sensor faulty, Test coolant temperature sensor and wiring. Repair wiring or renew sensor if
or wire to sensor broken faulty (see Chapter 6)
Fuel pressure incorrect Check fuel pressure from main pump and transfer pump, as applicable (see Section 3)
Throttle plate not opening fully Check accelerator cable adjustment to make sure throttle is opening fully. Adjust cable if
necessary (see Section 9)
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•21
4

Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when cold)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector or thermotime switch
faulty (early Motronic system only) Test cold start injector and thermotime switch. Renew faulty components (see Section 19)
Fuel pump not running Check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay (see Sections 2 and 3)
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or
stuck in open position Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test system pressure (see Section 3)
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts and oil filler and dipstick seals
Fuel injectors clogged or not operating Check fuel injectors (see Section 20) and wiring harness
Coolant temperature sensor faulty or Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
wiring problem
TPS (throttle position sensor) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Dirt or other contaminants in fuel Check the fuel and drain the tank if necessary
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Crankshaft position signal missing Faulty position sensor or flywheel, or reference pin missing (see Chapter 5)
Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when warm)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking or operating
continuously (early Motronic system only) Test cold start injector and thermotime switch (see Section 19)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel pressure (see Section 3)
Insufficient residual fuel pressure Test fuel system hold pressure (see Section 3)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks. Correct leaks as necessary
Coolant temperature sensor faulty
or wiring problem Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Vapour lock (in warm weather) Check fuel pressure (see Section 3)
EVAP system faulty Check EVAP system (see Chapter 6, Section 6)
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Idle speed control system faulty Test the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
Oxygen sensor faulty (where applicable) Check the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Engine misses and hesitates under load
Probable cause Corrective action
Fuel injector clogged Test fuel injectors. Check for clogged injector lines. Renew faulty injectors (see Section 20)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel system pressure (see Section 3). Test fuel pressure regulator (see Section 18)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks (see Chapter 4)
Engine maintenance Tune-up engine (see Chapter 1). Check the distributor cap, rotor, HT leads and spark
plugs, and renew any faulty components
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
stuck in open position
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts, and oil filler and dipstick seals
Throttle position sensor (TPS) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6)
Engine idles too fast
Probable cause Corrective action
Accelerator pedal, cable or throttle valve binding Check for worn or broken components, kinked cable, or other damage. Renew faulty
components
Air leaking past throttle valve Inspect throttle valve, and adjust or renew as required
Engine has erratic idle speed
Probable cause Corrective action
Idle air stabiliser valve faulty Check the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
No power to the idle air stabiliser valve Check the idle air stabiliser relay and wiring circuit (see Chapter 12)
Idle speed control unit faulty Have the idle speed control unit checked by a dealer
Poor fuel economy
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking
(early Motronic system only) Test and, if necessary, renew cold start injector (see Section 19)
Oxygen sensor faulty (where applicable) Test the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4))
Sticking handbrake/binding brakes Check the handbrake/braking system (see Chapter 9)
Tyre pressures low Check tyre pressures (Chapter 1)
4•22 Fuel and exhaust systems

4 Information sensors
2
Note:Refer to Chapters 4 and 5 for additional
information on the location and diagnosis of
the information sensors that are not covered in
this Section.
Coolant temperature sensor
General description
1The coolant temperature sensor (see
illustration)is a thermistor (a resistor which
varies its resistance value in accordance with
temperature changes). The change in the
resistance value regulates the amount of
voltage that can pass through the sensor. At
low temperatures, the sensor’s resistance is
high. As the sensor temperature increases, its
resistance will decrease. Any failure in this
sensor circuit will in most cases be due to a
loose or shorted-out wire; if no wiring
problems are evident, check the sensor as
described below.
Check
2To check the sensor, first check its
resistance (see illustration)when it is
completely cold (typically 2100 to 2900 ohms).
Next, start the engine and warm it up until it
reaches operating temperature. The resistance
should be lower (typically 270 to 400 ohms).
Note: If restricted access to the coolant
temperature sensor makes it difficult to attach
electrical probes to the terminals, remove the
sensor as described below, and perform the
tests in a container of heated water to simulate
the conditions.
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.
Renewal
3To remove the sensor, depress the spring
lock, unplug the electrical connector, then
carefully unscrew the sensor. Be prepared for
some coolant spillage; to reduce this, have
the new sensor ready for fitting as quickly as
possible.Caution: Handle the coolant
sensor with care. Damage to this
sensor will affect the operation of
the entire fuel injection system.
Note: It may be necessary to drain a small
amount of coolant from the radiator before
removing the sensor.
4Before the sensor is fitted, ensure its
threads are clean, and apply a little sealant to
them.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Oxygen sensor
General description
Note:Oxygen sensors are normally only fitted
to those vehicles equipped with a catalytic
converter. Most oxygen sensors are located in
the exhaust pipe, downstream from the
exhaust manifold. On 535 models, the oxygen
sensor is mounted in the catalytic converter.
The sensor’s electrical connector is located
near the bulkhead (left side) for easy access.
6The oxygen sensor, which is located in the
exhaust system (see illustration), monitors
the oxygen content of the exhaust gas. The
oxygen content in the exhaust reacts with the
oxygen sensor, to produce a voltage output
which varies from 0.1 volts (high oxygen, lean
mixture) to 0.9 volts (low oxygen, rich
mixture). The ECU constantly monitors this
variable voltage output to determine the ratio
of oxygen to fuel in the mixture. The ECU
alters the air/fuel mixture ratio by controlling
the pulse width (open time) of the fuel
injectors. A mixture ratio of 14.7 parts air to 1
part fuel is the ideal mixture ratio for
minimising exhaust emissions, thus allowing
the catalytic converter to operate at maximum
efficiency. It is this ratio of 14.7 to 1 which the
ECU and the oxygen sensor attempt to
maintain at all times.
7The oxygen sensor produces no voltage
when it is below its normal operating
temperature of about 320º C. During this initial
period before warm-up, the ECU operates in
“open-loop” mode (ie without the information
from the sensor).
8If the engine reaches normal operating
temperature and/or has been running for two
or more minutes, and if the oxygen sensor is
producing a steady signal voltage below 0.45 volts at 1500 rpm or greater, the ECU
fault code memory will be activated.
9When there is a problem with the oxygen
sensor or its circuit, the ECU operates in the
“open-loop” mode - that is, it controls fuel
delivery in accordance with a programmed
default value instead of with feedback
information from the oxygen sensor.
10The proper operation of the oxygen
sensor depends on four conditions:
a) Electrical - The low voltages generated by
the sensor depend upon good, clean
connections, which should be checked
whenever a malfunction of the sensor is
suspected or indicated.
b) Outside air supply - The sensor is
designed to allow air circulation to the
internal portion of the sensor. Whenever
the sensor is disturbed, make sure the air
passages are not restricted.
c) Proper operating temperature - The ECU
will not react to the sensor signal until the
sensor reaches approximately 320º C.
This factor must be taken into
consideration when evaluating the
performance of the sensor.
d) Unleaded fuel - The use of unleaded fuel
is essential for proper operation of the
sensor. Make sure the fuel you are using
is of this type.
11In addition to observing the above
conditions, special care must be taken
whenever the sensor is serviced.
a) The oxygen sensor has a permanently-
attached pigtail and electrical connector,
which should not be removed from the
sensor. Damage or removal of the pigtail
or electrical connector can adversely
affect operation of the sensor.
b) Grease, dirt and other contaminants
should be kept away from the electrical
connector and the louvered end of the
sensor.
c) Do not use cleaning solvents of any kind
on the oxygen sensor.
d) Do not drop or roughly handle the sensor.
e) The silicone boot must be fitted in the
correct position, to prevent the boot from
being melted and to allow the sensor to
operate properly.
6•2 Engine management and emission control systems
4.6 The oxygen sensor (arrowed) is usually
located in the exhaust pipe, downstream
from the exhaust manifold4.2 Check the resistance of the coolant
temperature sensor at different
temperatures4.1 The coolant temperature sensor
(arrowed) is usually located next to the
temperature sender unit, near the fuel
pressure regulator

Check
12Warm up the engine, and let it run at idle.
Disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical
connector, and connect the positive probe of
a voltmeter to the oxygen sensor output
connector terminal (refer to the following
table) and the negative probe to earth (see
illustrations).
Note:Most oxygen sensor electrical
connectors are located at the rear of the
engine, near the bulkhead. Look for a large
rubber boot attached to a thick wire harness.
On early 535i models, the connector for the
oxygen sensor heater circuit is under the
vehicle. Look for a small protective cover.
These models should have the updated
oxygen sensor fitted, to make access similar
to other models. Consult your dealer service
department for additional information.
13Increase and then decrease the engine
speed, and monitor the voltage.
14When the speed is increased, the voltage
should increase to 0.5 to 1.0 volts. When the
speed is decreased, the voltage should fall to
about 0 to 0.4 volts.
15Also where applicable, inspect the oxygen
sensor heater (models with multi-wire
sensors). With the ignition on, disconnect the
oxygen sensor electrical connector, and
connect a voltmeter across the terminals
designated in the chart (see below). There
should be battery voltage (approximately
12 volts).
16If the reading is not correct, check the
oxygen sensor heater relay (see Chapter 12).
If the information is not available, check the
owner’s handbook for the exact location of
the oxygen sensor heater relay. The relay
should receive battery voltage.
17If the oxygen sensor fails any of these
tests, renew it.
Renewal
Note: Because it is fitted in the exhaust
manifold, converter or pipe, which contracts
when cool, the oxygen sensor may be very
difficult to loosen when the engine is cold.
Rather than risk damage to the sensor(assuming you are planning to re-use it in
another manifold or pipe), start and run the
engine for a minute or two, then switch it off.
Be careful not to burn yourself during the
following procedure.
18Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
19Raise and support the vehicle.
20Disconnect the electrical connector from
the sensor.
21Carefully unscrew the sensor.
Caution: Excessive force may
damage the threads.
22A high-temperature anti-seize compound
must be used on the threads of the sensor, to
facilitate future removal. The threads of new
sensors will already be coated with this
compound, but if an old sensor is removed
and refitted, recoat the threads.23Refit the sensor and tighten it securely.
24Reconnect the electrical connector of the
pigtail lead to the main engine wiring harness.
25Lower the vehicle, and reconnect the
battery.
Oxygen Sensor Heated power
sensor type output signal supply (12V)
Unheated
(single-wire) black wire (+) Not applicable
Heated terminal 1 (+) terminals
(three-wire) 3 (+) and 2 (-)
Heated terminal 2 (+) terminals
(four-wire) 4 (+) and 3 (-)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
General description
26The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is
located on the end of the throttle shaft on the
throttle body. By monitoring the output
voltage from the TPS, the ECU can determine
fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle
(driver demand). In this system, the TPS acts
as a switch rather than a potentiometer. One
set of throttle valve switch contacts is closed
(continuity) only at idle. A second set of
contacts closes as the engine approaches
full-throttle. Both sets of contacts are open
(no continuity) between these positions. A
broken or loose TPS can cause intermittent
bursts of fuel from the injector and an
unstable idle, because the ECU thinks the
throttle is moving.
27All models (except for early 535i models
with automatic transmission) combine the idle
and full-throttle switch; a separate idle
position switch indicates the closed-throttle
position, while the TPS is used for the full-
throttle position. On 535i models with
automatic transmission, the TPS is connected
directly to the automatic transmission control
unit. With the throttle fully open, the
transmission control unit sends the full-
throttle signal to the Motronic control unit.
All models except early 535i with
automatic transmission
Check
28Remove the electrical connector from the
TPS, and connect an ohmmeter to terminals 2
and 18 (see illustrations). Open the throttle
Engine management and emission control systems 6•3
4.12b These oxygen sensor terminal
designations are for the harness side only.
Use the corresponding terminals on the
sensor side for the testing procedures
(there are three different four-wire oxygen
sensor connectors available - don’t get
them mixed up)4.12a The oxygen sensor, once it is
warmed up (320º C), puts out a very small
voltage signal. To verify it is working,
check for voltage with a digital voltmeter
(the voltage signals usually range from
0.1 to 1.0 volt)
4.28b First check for continuity between
terminals 2 and 18 with the throttle closed
(later Motronic system shown) . . .4.28a The TPS on L-Jetronic systems is
located under the intake manifold
(terminals arrowed)
6

filtered with a flame trap like most
conventional systems. There are no
conventional PCV valves fitted on these
systems - just a hose (see illustration).
3The main components of the PCV system
are the hoses that connect the valve cover to
the throttle body or air cleaner. If abnormal
operating conditions (such as piston ring
problems) arise, the system is designed to
allow excessive amounts of blow-by gases to
flow back through the crankcase vent tube
into the intake system, to be consumed by
normal combustion. Note: Since these
models don’t use a filtering element, it’s a
good idea to check the PCV system
passageways for clogging from sludge and
combustion residue(see illustration).
6 Evaporative emissions
control (EVAP) system
2
General description
Note:This system is normally only fitted to
those vehicles equipped with a catalytic
converter.
1When the engine isn’t running, the fuel in the
fuel tank evaporates to some extent, creating
fuel vapour. The evaporative emissions control
system (see illustration)stores these fuel
vapours in a charcoal canister. When the
engine is cruising, the purge control valve is
opened slightly, and a small amount of fuel
vapour is drawn into the intake manifold and
burned. When the engine is starting cold or
idling, the purge valve prevents any vapours
from entering the intake manifold and causing
excessively-rich fuel mixture.
2Two types of purge valve are used;
electrically-operated or vacuum-operated. To
find out which type is on your vehicle, follow
the hose from the charcoal canister until you
locate the purge valve. Some are located on
the intake manifold, and others near the
charcoal canister. Look for either an electrical
connector, or vacuum lines, to the purge
valve.3A faulty EVAP system will only affect engine
driveability when the engine is warm. The
EVAP system is not usually the cause of
difficult cold starting or any other cold-running
problems.
Check
Vacuum-operated purge valve
4Remove the vacuum lines from the purge
valve, and blow into the larger valve port. It
should be closed, and not pass any air. Note:
Some models have a thermo-vacuum valve
that delays canister purging until the coolant
temperature reaches approximately 46º C.
Check this valve to make sure that vacuum is
controlled at the proper temperatures. The
valve is usually located in the intake manifold,
near the thermo-time switch and the coolant
temperature sensor.
5Disconnect the small vacuum hose from the
purge valve, and apply vacuum with a hand-
held vacuum pump. The purge valve should
be open, and air should be able to pass
through.6If the test results are unsatisfactory, renew
the purge valve.
Electrically-operated purge valve
7Disconnect any lines from the purge valve,
and (without disconnecting the electrical
connector) place it in a convenient spot for
testing.
8Check that the valve makes a “click” sound
as the ignition is switched on (see
illustration).
9If the valve does not “click”, disconnect the
valve connector, and check for power to the
valve using a test light or a voltmeter (see
illustration).
10If battery voltage is present, but the valve
does not work, renew it. If there is no voltage
present, check the Motronic control unit and
the wiring.
Canister
11Mark all the hoses for position, then
detach them from the canister.
12Slide the canister out of its mounting clip.
Engine management and emission control systems 6•5
6.1 Diagram of the EVAP system on the M10 engine (others similar)
6.9 Check for battery voltage at the
electrical connector to the purge valve6.8 When the ignition is switched on, there
should be a distinct “click” from the purge
valve
6
5.3 It’s a good idea to check for excess
residue from the crankcase vapours
circulating in the hoses and ports - this
can eventually clog the system, and cause
a pressure increase in the engine block

On some models, it will be necessary to
release the retaining clip (see illustration).
13Visually examine the canister for leakage
or damage.
14Renew the canister if you find evidence of
damage or leakage.
7 Catalytic converter
1
General description
1To reduce emissions of unburnt
hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO)
and oxides of nitrogen (NOx), the later
vehicles covered by this manual are equipped
with a catalytic converter (see illustration).
The converter contains a ceramic honeycomb
coated with precious metals, which speed up
the reaction between the pollutants listed
previously and the oxygen in the exhaust gas.
The pollutants are oxidised to produce water
(H
2O), nitrogen and carbon dioxide (CO2).
Check
2Visually examine the converter(s) for cracks
or damage. Make sure all nuts and bolts are
tight.
3Inspect the insulation cover (if applicable)
welded onto the converter - it should not be
loose.
Caution: If an insulation cover is
dented so that it touches the
converter housing inside,
excessive heat may be
transferred to the floor.
4Start the engine and run it at idle speed.
5Check for exhaust gas leakage from the
converter flanges. Check the body of each
converter for holes.
Component renewal
6See Chapter 4 for removal and refitting
procedures.
Precautions
7The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware, if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
(a) DO NOT use leaded (eg UK “4-star”)
petrol in a car equipped with a catalytic
converter - the lead will coat the precious
metals, reducing their converting
efficiency, and will eventually destroy the
converter.
(b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule, as given in
Chapter 1. In particular, ensure that the air
cleaner filter element, the fuel filter (where
fitted) and the spark plugs are renewed at
the correct interval. If the intake air/fuel
mixture is allowed to become too rich due
to neglect, unburned fuel will enter the
catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
(c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
(d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start - see (b) or (c)
above.
(e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds - ie do not “blip” the
throttle immediately before switching offthe engine. If the ignition is switched off
at anything above idle speed, unburned
fuel will enter the (very hot) catalytic
converter, with the possible risk of its
igniting on the element and damaging the
converter.
(f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
(g) DO NOT continue to use the car if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages, and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases, the element will overheat.
(h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
hence the heat shields on the car’s
underbody - and the casing will become
hot enough to ignite combustible
materials which brush against it. DO NOT,
therefore, park the car in dry
undergrowth, or over long grass or piles
of dead leaves.
(i) Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools
during servicing work, and take great care
when working on the exhaust system.
Ensure that the converter is well clear of
any jacks or other lifting gear used to raise
the car, and do not drive the car over
rough ground, road humps, etc, in such a
way as to “ground” the exhaust system.
(j) In some cases, particularly when the car
is new and/or is used for stop/start
driving, a sulphurous smell (like that of
rotten eggs) may be noticed from the
exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped cars, and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrols reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust, to produce
hydrogen sulphide (H
2S) gas; while this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the car
has covered a few thousand miles, the
problem should disappear - in the
meanwhile, a change of driving style, or of
the brand of petrol used, may effect a
solution.
(k) The catalytic converter, used on a well-
maintained and well-driven car, should
last for 50 000 to 100 000 miles - from
this point on, the CO level should be
carefully checked regularly, to ensure that
the converter is still operating efficiently. If
the converter is no longer effective, it
must be renewed.
6•6 Engine management and emission control systems
7.1 Typical catalytic converter (M10
engine type shown, others similar)6.12 EVAP system charcoal canister
viewed from under the vehicle (316i model)

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front disc brake caliper
Caliper guide (mounting) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 35
Caliper bracket-to-strut housing bolts
3-Series, E30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Rear disc brake caliper
Caliper guide (mounting) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 35
Carrier-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Brake hose-to-caliper fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 17
Master cylinder-to-brake servo nuts
3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 29
Brake servo mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Hydraulic line-to-hydraulic brake servo threaded
fittings - 5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
9•2 Braking system
1 General information
All 3-Series models, and 5-Series E28 (“old-
shape”) models, are equipped with front disc
brakes and either rear drum or rear disc
brakes. 5-Series E34 (“new-shape”) models
have disc brakes front and rear. Front and
rear brakes are self-adjusting on all models.
Some later models are equipped with an Anti-
lock Braking System (ABS); this is described
in Section 2.
Hydraulic system
The hydraulic system consists of two
separate circuits. The master cylinder has
separate reservoirs for the two circuits; in the
event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic
circuit, the other circuit will remain operative.
Brake servo
The vacuum brake servo, utilising engine
manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure
to provide assistance to the hydraulically
operated brakes, is mounted on the bulkhead
in the engine compartment.
A hydraulic brake servo system is used on
5-Series E28 models. This system uses
hydraulic pressure from the power steering
pump to assist braking.
Handbrake
The handbrake operates the rear brakes,
and is cable-operated via a lever mounted in
the centre console. The handbrake assembly
on rear drum brake models is part of the rear
drum brake assembly, and is self-adjusting.
On rear disc brake models, the handbrake
uses a pair of brake shoes located inside the
centre portion of the rear brake disc, and is
manually-adjusted.
Brake pad wear warning system
The brake pad wear warning system is
linked to a red warning light in the instrumentcluster, which comes on when the brake pads
have worn down to the point at which they
require renewal. DO NOT ignore this reminder.
If you don’t renew the pads shortly after the
brake pad wear warning light comes on, the
brake discs will be damaged.
On some models, the brake pad wear
warning system also includes an early
warning light that comes on only when the
brake pedal is depressed, letting you know in
advance that the pads need to be renewed.
The wear sensor is attached to the brake
pads. The sensor is located at the left front
wheel; on some models, there is another
sensor at the right rear wheel. The wear
sensor is part of a closed circuit. Once the
pads wear down to the point at which they’re
flush with the sensor, the disc grinds away the
side of the sensor facing the disc. Thus, the
wire inside the sensor is broken, and the red
light on the instrument panel comes on.
Always check the sensor(s) when renewing
the pads. If you change the pads before the
warning light comes on, the sensor(s) may still
be good; once the light has come on, renew
the sensor.
Service
After completing any operation involving
dismantling of any part of the brake system,
always test drive the vehicle to check for
proper braking performance before resuming
normal driving. When testing the brakes, try to
select a clean, dry, road with no camber (ie as
flat as possible) and with no other traffic.
Conditions other than these can lead to
inaccurate test results.
Test the brakes at various speeds with both
light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle
should stop evenly, without pulling to one side
or the other. Avoid locking the brakes,
because this slides the tyres and diminishes
braking efficiency and control of the vehicle.
Tyres, vehicle load and wheel alignment are
factors which also affect braking
performance.
2 Anti-lock Braking system
(ABS)- general information
The Anti-lock Braking System is designed
to maintain vehicle control, directional stability
and optimum deceleration under severe
braking conditions on most road surfaces. It
does so by monitoring the rotational speed of
each wheel and controlling the brake line
pressure to each wheel during braking. This
prevents the wheels from locking up.
The ABS system has three main
components - the wheel speed sensors, the
electronic control unit, and the hydraulic
control unit. The sensors - one at each wheel
since 1985, but at both front wheels and one
at the rear differential on earlier models - send
a variable voltage signal to the control unit,
which monitors these signals, compares them
to its program information, and determines
whether a wheel is about to lock up. When a
wheel is about to lock up, the control unit
signals the hydraulic unit to reduce hydraulic
pressure (or not increase it further) at that
wheel’s brake caliper. Pressure modulation is
handled by electrically-operated solenoid
valves.
If a problem develops within the system, an
“ABS” warning light will glow on the
dashboard. Sometimes, a visual inspection of
the ABS system can help you locate the
problem. Carefully inspect the ABS wiring
harness. Pay particularly close attention to the
harness and connections near each wheel.
Look for signs of chafing and other damage
caused by incorrectly-routed wires. If a wheel
sensor harness is damaged, the sensor
should be renewed (the harness and sensor
are integral).
Warning: DO NOT try to repair an
ABS wiring harness. The ABS
system is sensitive to even the
smallest changes in resistance. Repairing
the harness could alter resistance values

and cause the system to malfunction. If
the ABS wiring harness is damaged in any
way, it must be renewed.
Caution: Make sure the ignition is
turned off before unplugging or
re-making any electrical
connections.
Diagnosis and repair
If the dashboard warning light comes on
and stays on while the vehicle is in operation,
the ABS system requires attention. Although
special electronic ABS diagnostic testing
tools are necessary to properly diagnose the
system, you can perform a few preliminary
checks before taking the vehicle to a dealer
service department.
a) Check the brake fluid level in the
reservoir.
b) Verify that the electronic control unit
connectors are securely connected.
c) Check the electrical connectors at the
hydraulic control unit.
d) Check the fuses.
e) Follow the wiring harness to each front
and rear wheel, and verify that all
connections are secure and that the
wiring is undamaged.
If the above preliminary checks do not
rectify the problem, the vehicle should bediagnosed by a dealer service department.
Due to the complex nature of this system, all
actual repair work must be done by a dealer
service department.
3 Disc brake pads- renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both front wheels
or both rear wheels at the same
time - NEVER renew the pads on
only one wheel. Also, the dust created by
the brake system may contain asbestos,
which is harmful to your health. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and don’t
inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask
should be worn when working on the
brakes. Do not, under any circumstances,
use petroleum-based solvents to clean
brake parts. Use brake system cleaner
only! When servicing the disc brakes, use
only original-equipment or high-quality
brand-name pads.
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Note:This procedure applies to both the front
and rear disc brakes.
1Remove the cap(s) from the brake fluid
reservoir, and syphon off about two-thirds of
the fluid from the reservoir. Failing to do thiscould result in the reservoir overflowing when
the caliper pistons are pressed back into their
bores.
2Loosen the wheel bolts, raise the front or
rear of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the front or rear wheels, as
applicable. Work on one brake assembly at a
time, using the assembled brake for reference
if necessary.
4Inspect the brake disc carefully as outlined
in Section 5. If machining is necessary, follow
the information in that Section to remove the
disc, at which time the pads can be removed
from the calipers as well.
5Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 3.5a, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order,
and read the caption under each illustration.
Note 1:Different types of front calipers are
used on 3 and 5-Series models. Illustrations
3.5a to 3.5e are for the front calipers on 3-
Series models.Illustrations 3.5f to 3.5m are
for the front calipers on 5-Series models.
There’s no photo sequence for rear calipers;
although slightly different in size, they’re
identical in design to the front brake calipers
used on 5-Series models.Note 2: Some
models may have different numbers and types
of anti-squeal shims and other hardware than
what is shown in this Chapter. It’s best to note
how the hardware is fitted on the vehicle
before dismantling, so you can duplicate it on
reassembly.
Braking system 9•3
3.5c Hold the guide pins while loosening
the caliper mounting bolts (3-Series)3.5b Unplug the electrical connector for
the brake pad wear sensor (3-Series)
3.5a On 3-Series models, unscrew the
caliper mounting bolts (left arrows); right
arrows point to the caliper bracket bolts,
which should only be removed if you’re
removing the brake disc
3.5f On 5-Series models, unplug the
electrical connector for the brake pad
wear sensor3.5e Remove the outer brake pad
(3-Series) - to fit the new pads, reverse the
removal procedure
3.5d Remove the caliper, brake pad wear
sensor and inner pad all at the same time
(3-Series), then refit the inner pad on the
piston and press the piston fully into the
bore with a C-clamp
9

10
General
Power steering fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyres
Tyre sizes
3-Series, E30
316 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14
316i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14, 195/65x14
318i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14
320i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x14
325i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x14, 200/60x356, 205/55x15
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”)
518 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14
525i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14, 195/70x14
528i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/70x14
535i and M535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220/55x390
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”)
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15
520i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15, 225/60x15
525i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15, 205/65x15, 225/65x15
530i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205/65x15, 225/60x15
535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225/60x15, 240/45x415
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems
Balljoints - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Control arm (3-Series) - inspection, removal and refitting,
and bush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Control and thrust arms (5-Series) - inspection, removal and
refitting, and bush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Front hub and wheel bearing assembly - removal and refitting . . . . 8
Front strut assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Rack-and-pinion steering gear (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . 19
Rear anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Rear coil springs (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear shock absorbers (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear shock absorber/coil spring assembly (5-Series) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Rear trailing arms (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Rear trailing arms (5-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Rear wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Steering box (5-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering gear boots (3-Series) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Steering linkage (5-Series) - inspection, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Strut or shock absorber/coil spring - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Suspension and steering checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Track rod ends - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Wheel alignment - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Wheels and tyres - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
10•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front suspension
Strut damper rod nut
Rod with external hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Rod with internal hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Strut cartridge threaded collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Strut upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Front control arm (3-Series)
Control arm-to-steering knuckle balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . 64
Control arm-to-subframe balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Control arm bush bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Lower control arm (5-Series)
Control arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . 85
Control arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Thrust arm (5-Series)
Thrust arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . . 85
Thrust arm through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Front hub (wheel bearing) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Steering arm-to-strut bolts (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Anti-roll bar (3-Series)
Anti-roll bar-to-connecting link bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets-to-subframe . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link bracket-to-control arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar (5-Series)
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Anti-roll bar link-to-strut housing locknut
Yellow chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
White chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
10•2 Suspension and steering systems
Torque wrench settingsNm
Rear suspension
Rear shock absorber (3-Series)
Shock absorber-to-upper mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15
Shock absorber-to-trailing arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Rear shock absorber (5-Series)
Lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 to 142
Upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Upper spring mounting-to-shock absorber locknut . . . . . 22 to 24
Trailing arms (3-Series)
Trailing arm-to-lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Trailing arm-to-anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 23
Trailing arms (5-Series)
Trailing arm-to-rear axle carrier (rubber bush
through-bolt and nut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Trailing arm-to-axle carrier connecting link (1983-on) . . . 126
Rear wheel bearing drive flange axle nut (5-Series)
M22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 to 210
M27 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 to 260
Steering system
Steering wheel retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering gear-to-subframe mounting bolts (3-Series) . . . . . 41
Steering box-to-front suspension subframe bolts (5-Series) 42
Track rod end-to-steering arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Track rod end clamping bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Pitman arm-to-steering box (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Steering linkage balljoints (all) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, new ones fitted, of the same
part number or of original-equipment
quality and design. Torque specifications
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Any bent or
damaged parts must be renewed.
The front suspension (see illustrations)is a
MacPherson strut design. The struts are
secured at the upper ends to reinforced areas
at the top of the wheel arches, and at the
lower ends to the steering arms/control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the control arms
via connecting links, and to the suspension
subframe (3-Series models) or the underbody
(5-Series models).
The independent rear suspension system
on 3-Series models (see illustration)features
coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers.
The upper ends of the shock absorbers are
attached to the body; the lower ends are
connected to trailing arms. An anti-roll bar is
attached to the trailing arms via links, and to
the body with clamps.
The independent rear suspension system on
5-Series models (see illustration)uses coil-over shock absorber units instead of separate
shock absorbers and coil springs. The upper
ends are attached to the body; the lower ends
are connected to the trailing arms. The rear
suspension of 5-Series models is otherwise
similar to that of 3-Series models: two trailing
arms connected by an anti-roll bar.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint shaft, the steering gear, the powersteering pump (where fitted) and the steering
linkage, which connects the steering gear to
the steering arms. On 3-Series models, a
rack-and-pinion steering gear is attached
directly to the steering arms via the track rods
and track rod ends. On 5-Series models, a
recirculating-ball steering box is connected to
the steering arms via a Pitman arm, a centre
track rod, the outer track rods and the track
rod ends.
1.1a Front suspension and steering components (3-Series models)
1 Subframe 3 Anti-roll bar link 5 Strut 7 Steering gear
2 Anti-roll bar 4 Control arm 6 Track rod end