drive shaft BMW 3 SERIES 1988 E30 Service Manual

Suspension and steering systems 10•3
1.1b Front suspension and steering
components (5-Series models -
left-hand-drive shown)
1 Subframe
2 Anti-roll bar
3 Anti-roll bar link
4 Centre track rod
5 Outer track rod
6 Track rod end
7 Steering arm
8 Control arm
9 Thrust arm
10 Strut
1.2 Rear suspension components
(3-Series models)
1 Shock absorber
2 Coil spring
3 Driveshaft
4 Trailing arm
5 Rear axle carrier
6 Anti-roll bar link
1.3 Rear suspension components
(5-Series models - left-hand-drive shown)
1 Shock absorber/coil spring assembly
2 Driveshaft
3 Anti-roll bar link
4 Anti-roll bar
5 Trailing arm
6 Rear axle carrier
10

4Inspect and, if necessary, renew any worn
or defective bolts, washers, bushes or links.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all fasteners securely.
13 Rear trailing arms (3-Series)
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and
support it securely on axle stands. Remove
the wheel(s).
2Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8), or
disconnect it from the final drive output
flange.
3Disconnect the rear brake hose from the
metal brake line at the bracket on the trailing
arm (see illustration). Note: For information
on disconnecting brake hose-to-metal line
connections, see Chapter 9. Plug the line and
hose, to prevent dirt ingress and loss of brake
fluid.
4Disconnect the handbrake cable (see
Chapter 9).
5Disconnect the lower end of the shockabsorber from the trailing arm (see Section 9),
and lower the trailing arm.
6Remove the trailing arm pivot bolts (see
illustration)and remove the trailing arm.
7Inspect the pivot bolt bushes. If they’re
cracked, dried out or torn, take the trailing
arm to an engineering works and have them
new ones fitted. Each bush has a larger
diameter shoulder on one end. Make sure this
larger diameter shoulder on each bush faces
away from the trailing arm, ie the inner bush
shoulder faces the centre of the vehicle, and
the outer bush shoulder faces away from the
vehicle.Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Support
the trailing arm with a trolley jack, and raise it
to simulate normal ride height, then tighten
the nuts and bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Be sure to bleed the
brakes as described in Chapter 9.
14 Rear trailing arms (5-Series)
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle and
support it securely on axle stands. Remove
the wheel(s).2Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8).
3Disconnect the rear brake hose from the
metal brake line at the bracket on the trailing
arm (see illustration). Note: For information
on disconnecting brake hose-to-metal line
connections, see Chapter 9. Plug the line and
hose, to prevent dirt ingress and loss of brake
fluid.
4Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
handbrake actuator, and unclip the handbrake
cable from the trailing arm (see Chapter 9).
5Remove the ABS wheel sensor (if
applicable) from the trailing arm, and unclip
the sensor wire harness from the arm.
Position the sensor aside so it won’t be
damaged during removal of the trailing arm.
6If you’re removing the right trailing arm,
unplug the connector for the brake pad wear
sensor, if applicable.
7Disconnect the rear anti-roll bar from the
trailing arm (see Section 12).
8On 1983 and later models, remove one of
the rear axle carrier bolts (see illustration).
9Disconnect the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see Section 11).
10Remove the two trailing arm pivot bolts
and nuts, and remove the trailing arm from the
vehicle.
11Inspect the pivot bolt bushes. If they’re
cracked, dried out or torn, take the trailing
arm to an engineering works, and have new
ones fitted. The bush inner sleeve is longer on
one side. Make sure the bushes are fitted with
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
14.3 Disconnect the brake hose (left
arrow) from the fitting on the metal brake
line (right arrow) at this bracket13.6 Nut (arrowed) for the outer pivot bolt
13.3 Disconnect the rear brake hose
(middle arrow) from the metal brake line
fitting (right arrow) at this bracket on the
trailing arm, then plug the line and hose
immediately; the other arrow points to the
nut for the inner pivot bolt
12.3b Bolt (arrowed) connecting rear anti-
roll bar link to trailing arm (5-Series)12.3a A nut and bolt (arrowed) connect
each rear anti-roll bar link to the rear
trailing arms (3-Series)12.2 Rear anti-roll bar bracket bolt
(arrowed) (3-Series)

the longer side of the sleeve facing towards
the centre of the vehicle.
Refitting
12Refitting is the reverse of removal. Refit
the inner pivot bolt first. Don’t fully tighten the
nuts on the pivot bolts or the shock absorber
yet.
13Bleed the brakes as described in Chap-
ter 9.
14Support the trailing arm with a trolley jack,
and raise it to simulate normal ride height.
Tighten the bolts and nuts to the torques
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
15 Rear wheel bearings-
renewal
4
3-Series models
1Loosen the driveshaft nut and the rear
wheel bolts, then chock the front wheels.
Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it
securely on axle stands. Remove the rear
wheel. Note: Depending on the type of rear
wheel, it may be necessary to remove the
wheel first, remove the hubcap, then refit the
wheel and loosen the driveshaft nut.
2Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8).3On models with rear brake drums, remove
the drum. On models with rear disc brakes,
remove the brake caliper and mounting
bracket. Don’t disconnect the hose. Hang the
caliper out of the way with a piece of wire.
Remove the brake disc (see Chapter 9).
Working from behind, drive the wheel hub out
of the wheel bearing with a large socket or a
piece of pipe.
4Remove the large circlip (see illustration)
that holds the wheel bearing in the wheel
bearing housing, then drive out the bearing
with a large socket or piece of pipe.
5Refitting is basically the reverse of removal,
bearing in mind the following points:
a) Be extremely careful where you place the
socket or piece of pipe when you drive
the new bearing into the housing. It
should be butted up against the outer
race of the bearing. Driving in the new
bearing using the inner race will ruin the
bearing.
b) Refit the wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground before attempting to tighten
the driveshaft nut to the torque listed in
the Chapter 8 Specifications.
5-Series models
6Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands. Disconnect the outer CV joint from the
drive flange (see Chapter 8). Support the outer
end of the driveshaft with a piece of wire -
don’t let it hang, as this could damage the
inner CV joint.
7Prise out the lockplate that secures the
drive flange nut (see illustration). Once
you’ve prised out an edge of the lockplate,
pull it out with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
8Lower the vehicle and unscrew the drive
flange nut, but don’t remove it yet. You’ll need
a long bar (see illustration).
Warning: Don’t attempt to loosen
this nut with the vehicle on axle
stands. The force required to
loosen the nut could topple the
vehicle from the stands.
9Loosen the rear wheel bolts, raise the rear
of the vehicle again, place it securely on axle
stands and remove the wheel.
10Remove the brake caliper and the brake
disc (see Chapter 9). Hang the caliper out of
the way with a piece of wire.
11Remove the drive flange nut. Using a
suitable puller, remove the drive flange (see
illustration).
12Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the stub
axle out of the bearing (see illustration). If the
bearing inner race comes off with the stub
Suspension and steering systems 10•11
15.7 Prise out the lockplate that secures
the drive flange nut - once you’ve prised
out an edge of the lockplate, pull it out
with a pair of needle-nose pliers15.4 An exploded view of the 3-Series rear
wheel bearing assembly14.8 On 1983 and later models, remove
one of these trailing arm-to-axle carrier
bolts (it doesn’t matter which one you
remove - one attaches the link to the
trailing arm, and the other attaches the link
to the axle carrier)
15.12 Using a soft-faced hammer, drive
the stub axle out of the bearing15.11 Remove the drive flange with a
puller15.8 Lower the vehicle and loosen the
drive flange nut
10
If the bearing inner race
sticks to the hub (it probably
will), use a puller to remove
the race from the hub.

axle (it probably will), use a puller to remove
the race from the stub axle. If you can’t get
the race off with a puller, take the stub axle to
an engineering works and have it pressed off.
13Remove the large circlip that retains the
bearing in the bearing housing (see
illustration), then drive the bearing out of the
bearing housing with a large socket or a
suitable piece of pipe (see illustration).
14Refitting is basically a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points:
a) Fit the new bearing using a large socket
or a suitable piece of pipe, with an
outside diameter the same diameter as
the outer race (see illustration). Don’t
apply force to the inner race. Make sure
the bearing is fully seated against the
back of the bore. Refit the circlip, making
sure it’s fully seated into its groove.
b) BMW dealers use special tools (Part Nos.
23 1 1300, 33 4 080 and 33 4 020) to pull
the stub axle into the bearing, because
the smooth portion between the splined
portion of the stub axle and the flange is a
press-fit, and knocks out the wheel
bearing inner race during refitting of the
stub axle. However, you can refit the stub
axle without these tools, using the old
inner race and a piece of pipe 13 mm
long by 38 mm inside diameter (seeillustration). First, insert the stub axle
through the new bearing until the
threaded portion protrudes from the inner
race. Refit the nut and tighten it until the
splined portion of the stub axle shaft
bottoms against the nut. You’ll need to
hold the stub axle flange with a lever or a
large screwdriver while tightening the nut
(see illustration). Remove the nut, refit
your piece of pipe, centred on the inner
race and refit the nut (see illustration).
Tighten the nut again until it bottoms
against the splines. Remove the nut, refit
the old inner race, refit the nut and tighten
it once more until it bottoms against the
splines. Remove the nut, remove the old
inner race, refit your piece of pipe, refit
the old inner race, refit the nut and tighten
it until it bottoms against the splines.
Remove the nut, the old race and the
pipe. Refit the drive flange, refit the nut
and tighten it securely, but don’t attempt
to tighten it to the final torque until the
vehicle is lowered to the ground.
c) Refit the wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground before tightening the stub axle
nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
16 Steering system-
general information
On 3-Series models, the steering wheel and
steering column are connected to a rack-and-
pinion steering gear (power-assisted where
applicable) via a short universal joint shaft.
When the steering wheel is turned, the
steering column and universal joint turn a
pinion gear shaft on top of the rack. The
pinion gear teeth mesh with the gear teeth of
the rack, so the rack moves right or left in the
housing when the pinion is turned. The
movement of the rack is transmitted through
the track rods and track rod ends to the
steering arms, which are an integral part of
the strut housings.
On 5-Series models, the upper part of the
steering system is identical to a 3-Series.
Instead of a rack-and-pinion set-up, however,
these models use a power-assisted
recirculating ball steering box which steers
the front wheels via a steering linkage
consisting of a Pitman arm, an idler arm, a
centre track rod, a pair of inner track rods,
and two track rod ends.
10•12 Suspension and steering systems
15.14d When you refit the spacer, make
sure it’s centred on the inner race of the
bearing before tightening the nut15.14c Hold the stub axle flange with a
large lever while tightening the nut15.14b You can fabricate your own spacer
tool from a piece of 13 mm long, 38 mm
inside diameter pipe (left); you’ll also need
to use the old inner race (right)
15.14a To refit the new bearing, use a
large socket or a piece of pipe with an
outside diameter the same diameter as the
outer race of the bearing - don’t apply
force to the inner race - and make sure the
bearing is fully seated against the back of
its bore15.13b . . . then drive the bearing out of
the housing with a large socket or a
suitable piece of pipe15.13a Remove the large circlip that
retains the bearing in the housing . . .

Where power-assistance is fitted, hydraulic
pressure (provided by an engine-driven pump)
delivers power steering fluid to the rack-and-
pinion steering gear or the recirculating-ball
steering box - this enhances steering
response and reduces steering effort.
Aside from maintaining the proper level of
power steering fluid in the system and
checking the tension of the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1, where applicable), the steering
system requires no maintenance. However,
on high-mileage vehicles, the track rod end
balljoints, the universal joints on either end of
the universal joint shaft, and the rubber
coupling between the steering column and the
universal joint shaft will wear, develop
excessive play, and cause the steering to feel
somewhat loose. At this point, you’ll have to
renew these items; they can’t be serviced.
Before you conclude that the steering
system needs work, however, always check
the tyres (see Section 25) and tyre pressures
(see Chapter 1). Also inspect the bearings in
the strut upper mounts (see Section 5), the
front hub bearings (see Section 8) and other
suspension parts, which may also be
contributing to an imprecise steering feel.
17 Track rod ends-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen but do not remove the wheel bolts,
then raise the front of the vehicle and secure it
on axle stands. Remove the front wheel.
3-Series models
2Loosen the nut on the track rod balljoint
stud, and free the balljoint stud from the
steering arm using a balljoint separator. In the
absence of a separator tool, try giving the
steering arm a few light blows with a hammer
(see illustration). Remove the nut, and
separate the balljoint stud from the steering
arm.3Loosen the clamp bolt that locks the track
rod end to the inner track rod. Measure the
length of the track rod end, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure the
track rod end is refitted in the same position
(see illustration). Unscrew the track rod end
from the inner track rod.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure the mark you made on the threads of the
track rod end is aligned correctly, if
applicable. If you measured the track rod end,
make sure it is refitted to the same distance.
5Have the toe-in checked and, if necessary,
adjusted at a dealer service department or
qualified garage.
5-Series models
6Measure the length of the track rod and
record your measurement, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure the
track rod end is refitted in the same position
(see illustration). Loosen the clamp bolt.
7Use a balljoint separator or a puller to
separate the track rod end from the steering
arm (see illustration).
8Unscrew the track rod end.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you align the paint mark made on the
threads of the track rod end, if applicable. If
you measured the track rod end, make sure it
is refitted to the same distance.
10Have the toe-in checked and, if
necessary, adjusted at a dealer service
department or qualified garage.
18 Steering gear boots
(3-Series)- renewal
4
1Remove the track rod ends (see Sec-
tion 17).
2Cut the boot clamps at both ends of the old
boots, and slide off the boots.
3While the boots are removed, inspect the
seals in the end of the steering gear. If they’releaking, renew the steering gear (see Sec-
tion 19).
4Slide the new boots into place and fit new
boot clamps.
5Refit the track rod ends (see Section 17).
19 Rack-and-pinion steering
gear (3-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Loosen but do not remove the wheel bolts,
raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the front wheels.
2Mark the lower universal joint on the
steering shaft and the pinion shaft, to ensure
proper alignment when they’re reassembled.
Remove the nut and bolt that attach the lower
end of the universal joint shaft to the steering
gear pinion shaft. Loosen the bolt and nut at
the upper end of the universal joint shaft. Slide
the universal joint shaft up a little, disengage it
from the pinion shaft, and remove it. Inspect
the universal joints and the rubber coupling
for wear. If any of them are worn or defective,
renew the universal joint shaft.
3On power steering models, using a large
Suspension and steering systems 10•13
17.6 Measure the length of the track rod
and record your measurement, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure
the track rod end is refitted in the same
position, then loosen the clamp bolt
(arrowed)17.3 Loosen the clamp bolt (arrowed) that
locks the track rod end to the inner track
rod. Paint an alignment mark on the
threads, to ensure the track rod end is
refitted in the same position, and
unscrew the track rod end from the inner
track rod17.2 Loosen the nut on the track rod
balljoint stud. For preference use a
balljoint separator; otherwise, give the
steering arm a few light blows with a
hammer to release the balljoint stud.
Remove the nut, and separate the balljoint
stud from the steering arm
17.7 Using a puller to separate the track
rod end from the steering arm
10

21 Steering box (5-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note:If you find that the steering box is
defective, it is not recommended that you
overhaul it. Because of the special tools
needed to do the job, it is best to let your
dealer service department overhaul it for you
(otherwise, fit a new unit). Removal and
refitting the steering box is outlined here.
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times.
2Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir (see Chap-
ter 1).
3Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
4Support the front of the engine with a trolley
jack. Place a block of wood between the jack
head and the sump to protect the sump from
damage.
5Remove the pivot bolts from the inner ends
of the front control arms (see Section 4).
6Remove the nuts from the left and right
engine mountings (see Chapter 2).
7Remove the mounting bolts (two on each
side on earlier models, three on each side on
later models) from the subframe crossmember
(see illustration)and remove the subframe.
8Remove the nuts and bolts that secure the
universal joint shaft to the steering box worm
shaft. Slide the universal joint shaft up and off
the worm shaft. Inspect the universal joint
shaft for wear. If it’s stiff or worn, renew it.
9Remove the banjo bolts, and disconnect
the hydraulic pressure line and the return line
from the box (see illustration). Plug the ends
of the lines to prevent fluid loss and
contamination. Discard the sealing washers -
new ones should be used when reassembling.
10Remove the steering box retaining bolts
(see illustrations)and remove the steering
box.
11If it’s necessary to detach the Pitman arm
from the box sector shaft (to have the box
serviced or to switch the arm to a new orrebuilt unit), make a match mark across the
two for correct reassembly. Remove the
Pitman arm retaining nut and washer. Use a
puller to withdraw the arm if necessary.
Refitting
12Refit the Pitman arm by aligning the
match marks made during removal, then
tighten the nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
13When fitted the Pitman arm must not have
any measurable endfloat within 100° from the
neutral position. If play exists, have the
following parts checked:
a) Sector shaft and bearings (for wear)
b) Thrust washer and adjuster bolt head (for
wear)
c) Ball nut and worm shaft (for wear)
14Refit the steering box. Align the mark on
the pinion gear shaft with the mark on the
universal joint shaft, and tighten the steering
box bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to use new self-locking nuts
on the universal joint shaft, the centre track
rod, the steering box and the crossmember.
Also, use new sealing washers on the
hydraulic line fittings.
16Refer to Chapter 1 and fill the powersteering reservoir with the recommended
fluid, then bleed the system as described in
Section 23. Check for leakage from the lines
and connections.22 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine undertray.
2On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times before
loosening the hydraulic line fittings.
3Disconnect the fluid return hose, and drain
the power steering fluid from the reservoir into
a clean container. Disconnect the pressure
line from the pump.
4If you need to remove the pulley from the
pump, push on the power steering pump
drivebelt by hand to increase the tension, and
unscrew the pulley nuts or bolts.
5Loosen the power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt, and remove the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
6Remove the mounting bolts (see
illustrations)and detach the power steering
pump.
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
21.10a This bolt (arrowed) secures the
steering box to the subframe
crossmember. The nut, not visible in this
photo, is accessed through a hole in the
crossmember (engine removed for clarity,
left-hand-drive shown)21.9 Disconnect the power steering
pressure line fitting (right arrow) and the
return line fitting (left arrow). Note that the
return line fitting banjo bolt is larger than
the bolt for the pressure line fitting (left-
hand-drive shown)21.7 Subframe crossmember bolts
(arrowed)
22.6a Typical 3-Series power steering
pump adjusting bolt (arrowed) . . .
21.10b This bolt (arrowed) attaches the
steering box to the body (the nut, not
visible in this photo, is on the front side of
the steering box)
10

Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the nuts and bolts securely. Adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
8Top-up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Sec-
tion 23).
23 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Recheck the fluid level and top
up if necessary.
4Start the engine and run it at 1000 rpm or
less. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock again (three or four times) and recheck
the fluid level one more time. Note:On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, pump the
brake pedal five or six times before turning the
steering wheel. Once the fluid level remains
constant, continue turning the wheel back and
forth until no more bubbles appear in the fluid
in the reservoir.
5Lower the vehicle to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Recheck the fluid
level. Position the wheels straight-ahead.24 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If the vehicle is
equipped with an airbag, do not
attempt this procedure. Have it
performed by a dealer service
department or other qualified specialist, as
there is a risk of injury if the airbag is
accidentally triggered.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
BMW emblem in the centre of the steering
wheel.
3Remove the steering wheel nut, and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4On all 3-Series models, and on 1986 and
later 5-Series models, turn the ignition key to
the first position to unlock the ignition lock.
5Remove the steering wheel from thesteering shaft. If the wheel is difficult to
remove from the shaft, use a steering wheel
puller to remove it - don’t hammer on the
shaft.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to align the match marks you made on the
steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
25 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1
Note:For more information on care and
maintenance of tyres, refer to Chapter 1.
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel-belted radial tyres as
original equipment. Use of other types or
sizes of tyres may affect the ride and handling
of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types or
sizes of tyres, as the handling and braking
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be renewed in pairs on the same
axle; if only one new tyre is being fitted, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be renewed if they are bent,
heavily dented, leak air, or are otherwise
damaged.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics, as
well as tyre life. Whenever a new tyre is fitted,
the tyre and wheel should be balanced.
10•16 Suspension and steering systems
24.3 After removing the steering wheel
nut, mark the relationship of the steering
wheel to the steering shaft (arrowed) to
ensure proper alignment during
reassembly
22.6c Typical 5-Series power steering pump mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.6b . . . and mounting nut and bolt (arrowed)

16 Windscreen/tailgate wiper
motor- removal and refitting
2
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Windscreen wiper motor
2Remove the covers and nuts, then detach
the wiper arms (see illustrations).
3Prise out the retaining clips and detach the
cowl grille for access to the wiper assembly.
4Remove the screws or nuts and detach the
wiper cover located on the engine
compartment bulkhead.
5Unplug the electrical connector and detach
the wiper linkage.
6Mark the relationship of the wiper shaft to the
linkage. Detach the wiper link from the motor
shaft by prising carefully with a screwdriver.
7Remove the three retaining bolts and
remove the wiper motor from the vehicle.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. When
fitting the motor, if necessary plug in theconnector and run the motor briefly until it is
in the “neutral” (wipers parked) position.Tailgate wiper motor
9On 3-Series models, remove the cover and
nut, then detach the wiper arm (see
illustration). On 5-Series models, open the
rear window away from the tailgate.
10As applicable, remove the trim panel(s),
then disconnect the washer tube and the
wiring plug.
11Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
the wiper motor (see illustrations). On 5-
Series models, the wiper blade and pivot
mechanism may be removed from the rear
window if necessary after removing the trim
panels (see illustration).
Body electrical systems 12•7
15.5 After removing the instrument cluster
(see Section 10), turn the bulbholder anti-
clockwise to remove the bulb15.4b . . . then remove the bulb from the
housing15.4a On 3-Series models, the entire tail
light housing assembly is self-earthing
through the mounting screw - loosen the
plastic screw and pull the housing back . . .
16.11a Removing the tailgate wiper motor (3-Series)
16.2b After removing the nut, use a magnet to lift out the metal
washer16.2a Use a small screwdriver to detach the wiper arm nut cover,
or swivel the cover up
16.9 Removing the tailgate wiper arm nut (3-Series)
12

REF•3
REF
MOT Test Checks
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

REF•11
REF
Fault Finding
Engine misses at idle speed
m mSpark plugs worn or incorrectly-gapped (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leaks (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low compression (Chapter 2).
m mFaulty charcoal canister, where fitted (Chapter 6).
Engine misses throughout driving speed range
m
mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mLow fuel output at the injectors, or partially-blocked carburettor
jets (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mCracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor HT leads, or
damaged distributor components (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty emission system components (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
m mWeak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).
m mVacuum leak in fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum
hoses (Chapter 4).
Engine misfires on acceleration
m mSpark plugs fouled (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mIntake manifold air leak (Chapter 4).
Engine surges while holding accelerator steady
m
mIntake air leak (Chapter 4).
m mFuel pump faulty (Chapter 4).
m mLoose fuel injector harness connections (Chapters 4 and 6).
m mDefective ECU (Chapter 5).
Engine lacks power
m
mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mExcessive play in distributor shaft (Chapter 5).
m mWorn rotor, distributor cap or HT leads (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty coil (Chapter 5).
m mBrakes binding (Chapter 1).
m mAutomatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 8).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mEmission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
Engine stalls
m
mIdle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system
(Chapter 1).
m mDistributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emissions system components (Chapter 6).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak in the fuel injection system, intake manifold or
vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).
Engine backfires
m mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator,
faulty plug HT leads, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intake manifold or vacuum hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mValve clearances incorrect (Chapter 1), or valve(s) sticking or
damaged (Chapter 2).
Pinking or knocking engine sounds when
accelerating or driving uphill
m mIncorrect grade of fuel.
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor in need of adjustment (Chap-
ter 4).
m mDamaged spark plugs or HT leads, or incorrect type fitted (Chapter 1).
m mWorn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emission system (Chapter 6).
m mVacuum leak (Chapter 4).
Engine runs with oil pressure light on
Caution: Stop the engine immediately if the oil
pressure light comes on and establish the cause.
Running the engine while the oil pressure is low can
cause severe damage.
m mLow oil level (Chapter 1).
m mIdle speed too low (Chapter 1).
m mShort-circuit in wiring (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty oil pressure sender unit (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
Engine runs-on after switching off
m
mIdle speed too high (Chapter 1).
m mExcessive engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mIncorrect fuel octane grade.
m mSpark plugs defective or incorrect grade (Chapter 1).
Engine electrical system
Battery will not hold charge
m
mAlternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
m mElectrolyte level low (Chapter 1).
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).
m mLoose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5).
m mShort in vehicle wiring (Chapters 5 and 12).
m mInternally-defective battery (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light bulb blown - on some early
models (Chapter 5)
Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to go out
m mFaulty alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).
m mAlternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator voltage regulator inoperative (Chapter 5).
Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on
when key is turned
m mWarning light bulb defective (Chapter 12).
m mFault in the printed circuit, wiring or bulbholder (Chapter 12).