fluid rear CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Owner's Manual

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-41

CAUTION: Use converter holding ToolJ-5384

when lowering transmission or keep rear of

transmission lower than front so as not to lose
converter.

The installation of the transmission is the reverse of

the removal.

TURBO HYDRA-MATIC DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE

Accurate diagnosis of transmission problems begins

with a thorough understanding of normal transmission

operation. In particular, knowing which units are in-

volved in the various speeds or shifts so that the specific

units or circuits involved in the problem can be isolated

and investigated further. Analytical diagnosis will pro-

tect the technician from come backs and certainly will

improve owner satisfaction.

An important and often overlooked aspect of diagnosis

is finding out specifically what the customer is com-

plaining of. For this purpose a short ride with the cus-

tomer will often prove beneficial. It may be found that

the condition the customer wants corrected is standard

and should not be altered.

The following sequence, based on field experience, pro-

vides the desired information quickly and in most cases

actually corrects the malfunction without requiring the

removal of the transmission. Details of the items listed

in this sequence are covered further in the text.

SEQUENCE FOR TURBO HYDRA-MATIC

DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE

1.
Check oil level and condition.

2.
Check and correct detent switch.

3.
Check and correct vacuum line and fittings.

4.
Check and correct manual linkage.

OIL LEVEL AND CONDITION CHECK

Always check the oil level before road testing. Oil

must be visible on dip stick prior to operating the ve-

hicle. Erratic shifting, pump noise, or other malfunc-

tions can in some cases be traced to improper oil level.

Oil level should be checked with the selector lever in

the Park (P) position, engine running, and the vehicle on

level pavement.

Fluid level should be to the FULL mark with the trans-

mission at normal operating temperature (170°-190°
F.).

With warm fluid (room temperature), the level should be

at or slightly below the ADD mark.

If oil level was low, refer to Oil Leaks.

The condition of the oil is often an indication of whether

the transmission should be removed from the vehicle, or

to make further tests. When checking oil level, a burned

smell and discoloration indicate burned clutches or bands

and the transmission will have to be removed.

MANUAL LINKAGE

Manual linkage adjustment and the associated neutral

safety switch are important from a safety standpoint

The neutral safety switch should be adjusted so that the

engine will start in the Park and Neutral positions only.

With the selector lever in the Park position, the park-

ing pawl should freely engage and prevent the vehicle

from rolling. The pointer on the indicator quadrant

should line up properly with the range indicators in all

ranges.
OIL LEAKS

Before attempting to correct an oil leak, the actual

source of the leak must be determined. In many cases,

the source of the leak can be deceiving due to "wind flow"

around the engine and transmission.

The suspected area should be wiped clean of all oil be-

fore inspecting for the source of the leak. Red dye is

used in the transmission oil at the assembly plant and

will indicate if the oil leak is from the transmission.

. The use of a "black light"* to identify the oil at the

source of leak is also helpful. Comparing the oil from

the leak to that on the engine or transmission dip stick

(when viewed by black light) will determine the source

of the leak.

Oil leaks around the engine and transmission are gen-

erally carried toward the rear of the car by the air

stream. For example, a transmission "oil filler tube to

case leak" will sometimes appear as a leak at the rear of

the transmission. In determining the source of an oil

leak it is most helpful to keep the engine running.

POSSIBLE POINTS OF OIL LEAKS

• 1. TRANSMISSION OIL PAN LEAK

a. Attaching bolts not correctly torqued.

b.
Improperly installed or damaged pan gasket.

c. Oil pan gasket mounting face not flat.

2.
REAR EXTENSION LEAK

a. Attaching bolts not correctly torqued.

b.
Rear seal assembly — damaged or improperly

installed.

c. Gasket seal — (extension to case) damaged or

improperly installed.

d. Porous casting.

3.
CASE LEAK

a. Filler pipe "O" ring seal damaged or missing;

misposition of filler pipe bracket to engine —

"loading" one side of
"O"
ring.

b.
Modulator assembly "O" ring seal
—
damaged or

improperly installed.

c. Governor cover, gasket and bolts — damaged,

loose; case face leak.

d. Speedo gear
—
"O" ring damaged.

e. Manual shaft seal — damaged, improperly in-

stalled.

f. line pressure tap plug — stripped, shy sealer

compound.

g. Parking pawl shaft cup plug
—
damaged, improp-

erly installed.

h. Vent pipe (refer to Item 5).

i. Porous case.

4.
FRONT END LEAK

a. Front seal - damaged (check converter neck for

nicks,
etc., also for pump bushing moved for-

ward);
garter spring missing from pump to con-

verter seaL

b.
Pump attaching bolts and seals
—
damaged, miss-

ing, bolts loose.

CHEVROLET a
SERVICE

STEERING 9-34

Fig.
64-Over Center Adjustment

transmission fluid "Type A" bearing the mark

"AQ-ATF" followed by a number and the suffix

letter "A".

ADJUSTMENTS

POWER STEERING GEAR

Chevrolet, Chevelle, and Camaro

The over-center adjustment (fig. 64) is the only power

steering gear adjustment which can be made on the car.

However, in order to make this adjustment, it is also

necessary to check the combined ball and thrust bearing

preload.

If the vehicle is equipped with a tilt column it will be

necessary to disconnect the steering coupling to obtain a

torque reading of the column. This torque should then be

subtracted from any reading taken on the gear.

1.
Disconnect the pitman arm from the relay rod.

2.
Loosen the pitman shaft adjusting screw loeknut and

thread the adjusting screw out to the limit of its

travel through the side cover. '. •

3.
Disconnect steering column harness at chassis wir-

ing connector plug.

4.
Remove horn button.

5.
Turn the steering wheel through its full travel, then

locate the wheel at its center of travel.

6. Gheck the combined ball and thrust bearing preload

with an inch-pound torque wrench on the steering

shaft nut by rotating through the center of travel

(approximately 1/4 turn in each direction). Note the

highest reading.

7.
Tighten the pitman shaft adjusting screw and check

torque at steering shaft nut until over center preload

and total steering gear preload falls within speci-

fications. Refer to torque specifications at rear of

manual for correct torque values.

8. Install horn button. Connect steering column harness

at wiring connector plug.
Chevy II and Corvette

The steering gear used with power steering is adjusted

in the same manner as the manual steering gear.

PUMP BELT TENSION

1.
Loosen nut on pivot bolt and pump brace adjusting

nut.

CAUTION: Do not move pump by prying against

reservoir or by pulling on filler neck.

2.
Move pump, with belt in place until belt is tensioned

to specifications as indicated by Tool J-7316 (Fig-.

65).

3.
Tighten pump brace adjusting nut. Then tighten pivot

bolt nut.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM CHECKS

The following procedure outlines methods to identify

and isolate power steering hydraulic circuit difficulties.

This test is divided into two parts. Test number one

provides means of determining whether power steering

system hydraulic parts are actually faulty. If test number

one results in readings indicating faulty hydraulic opera-

tion, test number two will identify the faulty part. Be-

fore performing hydraulic circuit test, carefully check

belt tension and condition of driving pulley. Strand

tension of belt should be 125 lbs. on new belts and 75 lbs.

on old belts, as indicated by Tool J-7316 (Fig. 65).

Test Number One—Oil Circuit Open

Engine must be at normal operating temperature. In-

flate front, tires to correct pressure. All tests are made

with engine idling, so adjust engine idle speed to correct

specifications listed in Section 6 and proceed as follows:

a. With engine not running, disconnect flexible pres-

sure line from pump and install Tool J-5176 as

Fig.
65— Checking Belt Tension with Tool J-7316

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES 10-4

the road and it slips, grinding off the tread on the inside

half of the tire at an excessive rate. This type of tire

shows much the same appearance of tread wear as tire

wear caused by negative camber.

Second, the transfer of weight may also over-load the

outside tires so much that they are laterally distorted

resulting in excessive wear on the outside half of the

tire producing a type of wear like that caused by ex-

cessive positive camber.

Cornering wear can be most easily distinguished from

abnormal camber wear by the rounding of the outside

shoulder or edge of the tire and by the roughening of the

tread surface which denotes abrasion.

Cornering wear often produces a fin or raised portion

along the inside edge of each row in the tread pattern.

In some cases this fin is almost as pronounced as a

toe-in fin, and in others, it tapers into a row of tread

blocks to such an extent that the tire has a definite step

wear appearance.

The only remedy for cornering wear is proper in-

struction of owners.

Fig.
5 - Tire Rotatidh

Rotation

To minimize the possibility of tire noise and to equal-

ize tire wear, it is recommended that tires be inter-

changed every 6000 miles as shown in Figure 5 or more

frequently in the case of extremely heavy wear.

NOTE:
Rotate Corvette tires at 4000 miles or

sooner.

Interchanging tires will effectively prevent undue wear

on any particular tire. II tire interchanging is followed

as recommended above, all tires will have the same

number of miles in each wheel position at the end of the

fourth change. When interchanging tires, inspect for

signs of abnormal wear, bulging, etc., stones, glass, and

nails should be removed before reinstallation.

Noise

Noise caused by the normal action of tire treads on

various road surfaces is often confused with rear axle
gears or other noises in the car.

The determination of whether tires are causing the

noise complained of is relatively simple. The car should

be driven at various speeds and note taken of part

throttle, and sudden acceleration and deceleration. Axle

and exhaust noises show definite variations under these

conditions, while tire noise will remain constant. Tire

noise is, however, most pronounced at speeds of approx-

imately twenty or thirty miles per hour.

The tires may be further checked by driving the ear

over smooth pavement with the tires at normal pressure

and again over the same stretch of pavement when the

tires have been inflated to fifty pounds pressure. Reduce

the tires to normal pressure one at a time to determine

the faulty tire or tires. This high inflation pressure

should immediately be reduced to normal after test. If

the noise for which the test is being made is caused by

tires,.
it will noticeably decrease when the tire pressure

is increased, whereas axle noise should show no change

in volume.

If, on inspection, the tires on the front wheels are

found to be creating most of the noise the alignment of

the front wheels should be checked. Excessive tire noise

usually results from lower than recommended tire pres-

sure, incorrect alignment, uneven tire wear, or defective

(thumper) tire.

Cleaning

A great deal of ordinary road dirt which collects on

white sidewall tires may be sponged off with clear water

or a mild soap solution.

A good brand of whitewall tire cleaner, however, is

a quicker and more effective cleaner for removing dirt

and stains from whitewall tires and in many cases it

will remove stains and discoloration that the simpler

method of soap and water will not remove.

Under no circumstances should gasoline, kerosene or

any cleaning fluid containing a solvent derived from oil

be used to clean whitewall tires. Oil in any form is

detrimental to tire rubber and a cleaner with an oil base

will discolor or injure whitewall tires.

Change (W/Wheels)

To change the road wheels using the jack that comes

with the car, observe the following procedure:

1.
Set hand brake and block front wheels if rear wheel

is being changed.

2.
Remove hub cap or wheel disc and break wheel

mounting nuts loose.

3.
Place the jack as directed tinder, General Informa-

tion,
Section 0 and raise car until wheel clears

ground.

4.
Remove wheel mounting nuts and remove wheel from

hub or drum.

5. To replace road wheel, reverse the above instrue-

. tions. Proper torque on nuts is 55-75 ft. lbs.

torque (70-85 ft. lbs. for Corvette aluminum wheel

nuts).

CAUTION: On models equipped with discs, in-

dex the pilot hole in the disc on the valve stem.

(To insure that the anti-rotation notches in wheel

disc register on lugs in wheel rim.)

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL