battery replacement CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 131
•

Circuit Breaker - a circuit breaker is basically a self-repairing fuse. It will
open the circuit in the same fashio n as a fuse, but when the surge
subsides, the circuit breaker can be reset and does not need
replacement.
• Fusible Link - a fusible link (fuse link or main link) is a short length of
special, high temperatur e insulated wire that acts as a fuse. When an
excessive electrical current passes th rough a fusible link, the thin gauge
wire inside the link melt s, creating an intentional open to protect the
circuit. To repair the circuit, the link must be replaced. Some newer type
fusible links are housed in plug-in modules, which are simply replaced
like a fuse, while older type fusible lin ks must be cut and spliced if they
melt. Since this link is very early in the electrical path, it's the first place to
look if nothing on the vehicle works, yet the battery seems to be charged
and is properly connected.
CAUTION - Always replace fuses, circ uit breakers and fusible links with
identically rated component s. Under no circumstances should a component of
higher or lower amperage rating be substituted.
SWITCHES & RELAYS
Switches are used in electrical circuits to control the passage of current. The
most common use is to open and close circuits between the battery and the
various electric devices in the system. Switches are rated according to the
amount of amperage they c an handle. If a sufficient amperage rated switch is
not used in a circuit, the switch could overload and cause damage.

Fig. 2: The underhood fuse and relay panel usually contains fuses, relays,
flashers and fusible links

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 199
Federal law requires that the
odometer in any replacement
speedometer/odometer must r egister the same mileage as that registered on
the removed speedometer/odometer. Service replacement
speedometer/odometers and odometer modul es with the mileage preset to
actual vehicle mileage are available through the dealer. In nearly all cases, the
mileage continues to accumu late in the odometer memory even if the odometer
does not display mileage. Th is mileage can usually be verified by the dealer.
Contact the dealer for instructi ons to receive a replacement
speedometer/odometer with pres et mileage. If the actual vehicle mileage cannot
be verified, the dealer will supply a spe edometer/odometer with a display set to
zero miles. In addition, an odometer mileage sticker is supplied with the
replacement odometer. The sticker must display the estimated vehicle mileage
and is to be affixed to the driver's door.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. The gauges can be removed from the cluster assembly by: a. Removing the cluster lens.
b. Removing the printed circuit board from the back of the cluster.
c. Removing the gauge attaching screws.
2. Installation is the reverse of removal.
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative batte ry cable at the battery.
2. On models without cruise control, disconnect the speedometer cable
strap at the power brake booster. On models with cruise control,
disconnect the speedometer cable at the cruise control transducer.
3. Remove the instrument cluster trim plate.
4. Remove the instrument cluster a ttaching screws and pull the cluster out
far enough to gain access to the r ear of the speedometer head.
5. Reach beneath the c able connection at the speedometer head, push in
on the cable retaining spring, and disconnect the cable from the
speedometer.
6. Slide the old cable ou t of the speedometer cable casing. If the cable is
broken, remove the cable from both ends of the casing. Using a short
piece of the old cable to fit t he speedometer connection, turn the
speedometer to increase the speed i ndicated on the dial and check for
any binding during rotation. If binding is noted, the speedometer must be
removed for repair or replacement. Check the entire cable casing for
extreme bends, chafing, breaks, et c., and replace if necessary.
To install: 7. Wipe the cable clean us ing a lint free cloth.
8. If the old casing is to be reused, flush the casing with petroleum spirits
and blow dry with compressed air.

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FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses,
the wiring harness incorporates fusible
links to protect the wiring. Links are used rather than a fuse, in wiring circuits
that are not normally fused, such as th e ignition circuit. The fusible links are
color coded red in the charging and load circuits to match the color coding of
the circuits they protect. Each link is four gauges smaller than the cable it
protects, and is marked on the insulation with the gauge size because the
insulation makes it appear heavier than it really is. The engine compartment
wiring harness has several fusible links. The same size wire with a special
Hypalon insulation must be used w hen replacing a fusible link.
For more details, see the information on fusible links at the beginning of this
section.
The links are located in the following areas:
1. A molded splice at the starter solenoid Bat terminal, a 14 gauge red wire.
2. A 16 gauge red fusible link at the j unction block to protect the unfused
wiring of 12 gauge or larger wire. This link stops at the bulkhead
connector.
3. The alternator warning light and fiel d circuitry is protected by a 20 gauge
red wire fusible link used in the batte ry feed-to-voltage regulator number
3 terminal. The link is installed as a molded splice in the circuit at the
junction block.
4. The ammeter circuit is protected by two 20 gauge fusible links installed
as molded splices in the circuit at t he junction block and battery to starter
circuit.
REPLACEMENT 1. Determine the circuit that is damaged.
2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the harness and discard it.
4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and butt connectors.
5. Strip the wire about
1/2 in. (13mm) on each end.
6. Connect the fusible link and crimp the butt connectors making sure that the wires are secure.
7. Solder each connection with resin core solder, and wrap the connections
with plastic electrical tape.
8. Reinstall the wir e in the harness.
9. Connect the negative battery terminal and test the system for proper
operation.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS

Various circuit breakers are located under the instrument panel. In order to gain
access to these components, it may be ne cessary to first remove the under
dash padding. Most of the circuit breakers are located in the convenience
center or the fuse panel.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 359
3. Disconnect all wiring from the star
ter solenoid. Replace each nut as the
connector is removed (as thread sizes differ from connector to
connector). Note or tag the wiring positions for installation.
4. Remove the bracket from the st arter and the two mounting bolts. On
engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt
and detach the bracket fr om the starter.
5. Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter front end first, and
then remove the unit from the car.
To install: 6. Position the starter into place and se cure it with the front bracket bolt and
nut. Torque the two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs.
CAUTION - If shims were removed, they must be replaced to ensure proper
pinion-to-flywheel engagement.
7. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, attach the bracket to the starter.
Install the bracket to the starter and the two mounting bolts. Install the
front bracket upper bolt.
8. Connect all wiring to the starte r solenoid and tighten the nuts.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
SOLENOID REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the screw and washer from the motor connector strap terminal.
2. Remove the two solenoid retaining screws.
3. Twist the solenoid housing clockwis e to remove the flange key from the
keyway in the housing. Then remove the housing.
4. To re-install the unit, place the re turn spring on the plunger and place the
solenoid body on the driv e housing. Turn counterclockwise to engage the
flange key. Place the two retaining screws in position and install the
screw and washer which secures the strap terminal. Install the unit on
the starter.
SENDING UNITS AND SENSORS
For additional information on engine sensors, refer to Engine Performance &
Tune-up and Engine Controls in this repair guide.

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Fig. 4: Then remove the rocker arm pivot
Be sure to keep all the components in t he exact order of removal so they may
be installed in there original location; adjust the valve lash after replacing the
rocker arms. Coat the replacement ro cker arm and ball with engine oil before
installation.
Rocker arms studs that have damaged thr eads or are loose in the cylinder
heads may be replaced by reaming the bore and installing oversize studs.
Oversizes available are 0.003 in. (0. 076mm) and 0.013 in (0.33mm). The bore
may also be tapped and screw-in studs installed. Several aftermarket
companies produce complete rocker arm st ud kits with installation tools.
The 2.5L engine use bolts instead of studs, 2.8L and 3.1L engines use threaded
studs, the 3.4L, 5.0L and 5.7L engines use press fit studs.
EXCEPT 2.5L ENGINES 1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
2. Remove the rocker arm cover as outlined in this section
3. Remove the rocker arm nuts, balls and rocker arms. Place components
in a rack so they can be reinstalled in the same location.
To install: 4. Coat the bearings surf aces with a thin coating of Molykote® or its
equivalent.
5. Install the pushrods and make sure the rod is in the lifter seat.

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3. If no defects have been found at this
time, and you still have a problem,
then the module will have to be che cked. If you do not have access to a
module tester, the only possible alter native is a substitution test. If the
module fails the substitution test, replace it.
COMPONENT REPLACEMENT

CAUTION - When handling secondar y spark plug leads with the engine running
or starting, insulated pliers must be used and care exercised to prevent a
possible electrical shock.
HEI SYSTEM
IGNITION COIL
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the ignition coil wire from the coil. Do so by pulling on the
boot of the wire while twisting it.
3. Disconnect the harness connecto r from the ignition coil.
4. Remove the coil mounting screws and the ignition coil. If necessary, drill
out and remove the rivets holding the coil to the bracket.
To install: 5. Place the ignition coil in position on the mounting bracket and install the
mounting screws.
6. Reconnect the harness connectors to the ignition coil. Confirm that the
harness connectors are firmly attached to the coil.
7. Install the secondary coil wire to the coil tower.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.

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Fig. 6: Removing the distri butor cap. Notice that all towers on cap are labeled
with the corresponding engine cylinder number.
ROTOR 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap.
3. Unscrew the two rotor attaching screws and then lift off the rotor.
4. For installation, make sure the roto r is positioned in the correct direction
and tighten the retaining screws.
CAPACITOR
The capacitor, if equipped, is part of the ignition coil wire harness assembly.
Since the capacitor is used only for radio noise suppres sion, it will seldom need
replacement.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
3. Remove the capacitor attaching screws and unplug the connector from
the module. Remove the module.
To install: 4. Plug the connector into the capacitor. Install the capacitor and secure in
place using the mounting screws. Be sure the ground lead is under the
screw.
5. Install the rotor and distributor cap.

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11. Lubricate the new large O-ring with cl
ean engine oil and install it directly
over the backup washer. Be sure t he O-ring is seated properly and is
flush with the top of the fuel meter body surface.
12. Lubricate the new small O-ring with clean engine oil and install it on the
nozzle end of the injector. Push t he O-ring on far enough to contact the
filter.
WARNING - Do not attempt to reverse this procedure and install the backup
washer and O-ring after the injector is located in the cavity. To do so will
prevent proper seating of the O-ring in th e cavity recess which could result in a
fuel leak and possible fire.
13. Install the injector by aligning the raised lug on the injector base with the
notch cast into the fuel meter body . Push down on the injector making
sure it is fully seated in the cavity. In jector installation is correct when the
lug is seated in the notch and the electrical terminals are parallel to the
throttle shaft.
14. Using new gaskets on the fuel mete r cover and a new dust seal, install
the cover to the fuel meter body. Use an appropriate thread locking
compound on the cover attaching screws.
15. Connect the injector electrical c onnector by pushing straight down until
seated firmly in place.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.
17. With the engine OFF and the igniti on ON, check for fuel leaks.
18. Install the air cleaner.
ADJUSTMENTS
MINIMUM IDLE SPEED
Minimum idle speed should only be adjus ted when installing a replacement
throttle body. The idle stop screw is used to regulate the minimum idle speed of
the engine. The throttle body is adjusted at the factory, then covered with a cap
or plug to discourage unnecessary readjustment.
2.5L ENGINES 1. Remove the air cleaner and pl ug the THERMAC vacuum port.
2. Disconnect the TV cable from the th rottle control bracket to allow access
to the idle adjustment screw.
3. Remove the throttle stop screw plug or cap.
4. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
5. Disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector.
6. Start the engine with the transmi ssion in PARK (auto transmission) or
NEUTRAL (manual transmission) and allow the engine speed to
stabilize. All accessories (A/C, rear defogger, etc.) should be OFF.
7. Install tool J-33047 in t he idle air passage of the throttle body. Be certain
that the tool seats fully in t he passage and no air leaks exist.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 751
13. Lubricate a new outlet tube 0-ring and in
stall it on the end of the tube.
14. Connect the regulator base to the fuel outlet tube, then to the fuel rail.
15. Finger-tighten the base-to-rail screw.
16. Install the pressure regulator br acket. Finger-tighten the screws only.
17. Lubricate a new rear crossover tube O-ring and install it on the end of the
tube.
18. Install the rear crossover tube to the regulator base.
19. Install the crossover tube reta iner and finger-tighten the screw.
20. Tighten all attaching screws to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
21. Install the fuel rail assembly.
22. Temporarily connect the negative battery cable. a. With the engine OFF and the igniti on ON, check for fuel leaks.
b. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
23. Install the intake plenum and runners.
24. Connect the negative battery cable.
IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Unplug the electrical connector from idle air control valve.
2. Remove the idle air control valve.
To install: 3. Before installing the idle air contro l valve, measure the distance that the
valve is extended. Measurement s hould be made from the motor housing
to the end of the cone. It should not exceed 28.5mm (1
1/8 in.), or damage
to the valve may occur when installed.
4. On 1985-1992 models, identify the replacement IAC valve as being
either Type 1 (with collar at electric terminal end) or Type 2 (without
collar). If measuring distance is great er than specified above, proceed as
follows:
• Type 1: Use finger pressure to slowly retract the pintle.
• Type 2: Compress retaining spring from valve while turning valve
in with a clockwise motion. Return spring to original position with
straight portion of spring end aligned with flat surface of valve.
On IAC valves that have already been in service, do not push or pull on the
valve pintle. The force required to move the pintle may damage the threads on
the worm drive.
5. Use a new gasket or O-ring and install the IAC valve into the throttle body.
6. Allow the ECM to reset the idle air control valve using the procedure
described earlier in this section.

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16. With the aid of an assistant, posit
ion and support the fuel tank with the
straps. Loosely install the front fuel tank attaching bolts.
17. Engage the electrical connection.
18. Connect the fuel hoses and li nes separated during removal.
19. Install the muffler heat sh ield and the exhaust system.
20. Install the rear axle and the fuel filler neck shield.
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Add fuel and install the filler cap.
23. Connect the negative battery cable.
24. With the engine OFF, turn the igni tion switch to the ON position for 2
seconds, then turn it to the OFF positi on for 10 seconds. Again turn it to
the ON position and check for fuel leaks.
SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the fuel tank.
2. Clean the area surrounding t he sender assembly to prevent
contamination of the fuel system.
3. Using tool J-24187 or equivalent, re move the sending unit retaining cam.
Remove the fuel sender and O-rings fr om the tank. Discard the O-rings.
4. If necessary, separate the fuel pum p from the sending unit assembly.
To install: 5. If removed, install the fuel pump to the sending unit. If the strainer was
removed, it must be re placed with a new one.
6. Inspect and clean the O-ring mating surfaces.
7. Install a new O-ring in the groove around the tank opening. If applicable,
install a new O-ring on t he fuel sender feed tube.
8. Install the fuel sender assembly as follows: a. The fuel pump strainer must be in a horizontal position, and when
installed, must not block the travel of the float arm. Gently fold the
strainer over itself an d slowly position the sending assembly in the
tank so the strainer is not dam aged or trapped by the sump walls.
9. Install the retaining cam us ing tool J-24187 or equivalent.
10. Install the fuel tank assembly.