engine CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 2
This is an essential accessory for do-it
-yourself automotive repair. Each vehicle-
specific guide includes detailed informa tion and graphics to help you get your
car or truck back on the road. Included in most guides: step-by-step instructions
with detailed photographs and drawings, wiring diagrams, specification charts
and repair tips.
1. Body & Trim
2. Brakes
3. Chassis Electrical
4. Drive Train
5. Engine & Engine Overhaul
6. Engine Controls
7. Engine Performance and Tune-up
8. Fuel System
9. General Information & Maintenance
10. Suspension & Steering
Covers all U.S. and Canadian m odels of GM Camaro 1982-1992.
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 51
shoes to rotate very slightly with the
drum, rocking an adjusting lever, thereby
causing rotation of the adjusting scr ew. Some drum brake systems are
designed to self-adjust duri ng application whenever the br akes are applied. This
on-board adjustment system reduces the need for maintenance adjustments
and keeps both the brake function and pedal feel satisfactory.
POWER BOOSTERS
Virtually all modern vehicles use a va cuum assisted power brake system to
multiply the braking force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always
available when the en gine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A
vacuum diaphragm is located on the front of the master cylinder and assists the
driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into
moving the brake pedal.
The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by
a vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the
diaphragm housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuum brakes
assist will not be lost.
Depressing the brake pedal closes o ff the vacuum source and allows
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the
master cylinder pistons to move and app ly the brakes. When the brake pedal is
released, vacuum is applied to both si des of the diaphragm and springs return
the diaphragm and master cylinder pist ons to the released position.
If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master
cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the br akes without any power
assistance. The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop
the car and that the pedal f eels harder than usual.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
1. Operate the engine at idle without t ouching the brake pedal for at least one
minute.
2. Turn off the engine and wait one minute.
3. Test for the presence of assist va cuum by depressing the brake pedal and
releasing it several times. If vac uum is present in the system, light
application will produce less and less pedal travel. If there is no vacuum, air
is leaking into the system.
SYSTEM OPERATION TEST
1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake p edal until the supply vacuum is
entirely gone.
2. Put light, steady pressu re on the brake pedal.
3. Start the engine and let it idle. If the system is operating correctly, the brake
pedal should fall toward the floor if t he constant pressure is maintained.
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4. Remove nuts and lockwashers that se
cure booster to firewall and remove
booster from engine compartment.
5. Install by reversing removal procedure. Make sure to check operation of stop
lights. Allow engine vacuum to build before applying brakes.
COMBINATION VALVE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
This valve is not repairable and only serviced as a complete assembly.
1. Disconnect the hydraulic lines from t he valve. Plug the lines to prevent fluid
loss and dirt contamination.
2. Disconnect the electrical connection.
3. Remove the valve.
To install:
4. Position the valve.
5. Connect the electrical connection.
6. Connect the hydraulic lines to the valve.
7. Bleed the brake system.
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Fig. 2: Master cylinder bleeding
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic
system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating
that compressible air has ent ered the system. It must also be bled whenever the
system has been opened, repaired or the fluid appears dirty. You will need a
helper for this job.
CAUTION - Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system
1. The sequence for bleeding is right rear , left rear, right front and left front. If
the car has power brakes, remove the vacuum by applying the brakes
several times. Do not run the engine while bleeding the brakes.
2. Clean all the bleeder screws. You ma y want to give each one a shot of
penetrating solvent to loosen it; seiz ure is a common problem with bleeder
screws, which then break off, sometimes requiring replacement of the part to
which they are attached.
3. Fill the master cylinder with good quality brake fluid.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Don't leave the master cylinder or the
fluid container uncovered any longer t han necessary. Be careful handling the
fluid; it eats paint. Check the level of the fluid often when bleeding and refill the
reservoirs as necessary. Don't let them run dry or you will have to repeat the
process.
4. Attach a length of clear vinyl t ubing to the bleeder screw on the wheel
cylinder. Submerge the other end of the tube into a clear, clean jar half filled
with brake fluid.
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4. Remove the mounting bo
lts, if equipped with single piston caliper or the
circlip and pin, if equipped with dual piston ca liper. Inspect the bolts for
corrosion and replace as necessary.
5. Remove the caliper fr om the steering knuckle an d suspend it from the body
of the car with a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang by its hose.
6. Remove the pad retaining springs and remove the pads from the caliper.
7. Remove the plastic sleeves and the rubber bushings from the mounting bolt
holes.
8. Obtain a pad replacem ent kit. Lubricate and install the new sleeves and
bushings with a light coat of silicone grease.
9. Install the retainer spring on the i nboard pad, if equipped with single piston
caliper.
A new spring should be included in the pad replacement kit.
10. Install the new inboard pad into the caliper with the wear sensor at the
leading end of the shoe duri ng forward wheel rotation.
11. Install the outboard pad into the caliper.
12. Use a large pair of slip joint plie rs to bend the outer pad ears down over the
caliper, if equipped with t he single piston caliper.
13. Install the calip er onto the steering knuckle. Tighten the mounting bolts to
21-35 ft. lbs. (28-47 Nm), if equipped. In stall the wheel and lower the car. Fill
the master cylinder to its proper le vel with a good quality brake fluid.
14. Pump the brake pedal slowly a nd firmly 3 times with the engine running
before attempting to move the vehicle; bleed the brakes as required.
BRAKE CALIPER
CAUTION - Some brake pads contain asbest os, which has been determined to
be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed
air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake
surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
REMOVAL & INSTALATION
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4. Position a C-clamp a
nd tighten until the piston bottoms in the base of the
caliper housing. Make sure 1 end of the C-clamp rests on the inlet fitting bolt
and the other against the outboard disc brake pad.
It is not necessary to remove the parki ng brake caliper lever return spring to
replace the disc brake pads.
5. Remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and discard.
6. Rotate the caliper housing. Be careful not to strain the hose or cable conduit.
7. Remove the disc brake pads.
To install:
8. Clean all residue from the pad guide surfaces on the mounting bracket and
caliper housing. Inspect the guide pins for free movement in the mounting
bracket. Replace the guide pins or boot s, if they are corroded or damaged.
9. Install the disc brake pads. The out board pad with insulator is installed
toward the caliper housing. The inboard pad with the w ear sensor is installed
nearest the caliper piston. The wear sens or must be in the trailing position
with forward wheel rotation.
10. Rotate the caliper housing into it 's operating position. The springs on the
outboard brake pad must not stick through the inspection hole in the caliper
housing. If the springs are sticking thr ough the inspection hole in the caliper
housing, lift the caliper housing and make the necessary corrections to the
outboard brake pad positions.
11. Install a new upper cali per guide pin bolt and tight en to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Tighten the lower caliper guide pin bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
12. With the engine runni ng, pump the brake pedal slo wly and firmly to seat the
brake pads.
13. Check the caliper parking brake levers to make sure they are against the
stops on the caliper housing. If the leve rs are not on their stops, check the
parking brake adjustment.
14. Remove the 2 wheel nuts from t he rotor and install the wheel and tire
assembly.
15. Lower the vehicle, che ck the master cylinder fluid level and road test the
vehicle.
BRAKE CALIPER
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CAUTION - Brake pads contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a
cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air!
Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces,
use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
1982-88 MODELS
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9. Inspect the guide pins and boots and re
place if corroded, worn or damaged.
Check the inlet fitting bolt for blockage.
10. Install the caliper housing over t he rotor and into the mounting bracket.
Install the 2 caliper guide pin bolts. Tighten the upper caliper guide pin bolt
to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) and the lower gui de pin bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
11. Connect the parking brake cable to t he caliper bracket and caliper lever.
Install the caliper lever return spring, if removed.
12. Install the inlet fitting, bolt and 2 new washers to the caliper housing. Tighten
the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
13. Bleed the brake system.
14. Adjust the parking brake free trav el if the caliper was overhauled.
15. Lower the vehicle and cycle the parking brake.
16. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
17. Inspect the caliper parking brake levers and ensure they are against the
stops on the caliper housing. If the levers are not on their stop, refer to the
parking brake adjustment.
18. Remove the 2 nuts securing the roto r and then install the wheel and tire
assembly. Lower the vehicle.
19. With the engine running, pump the br ake pedal slowly and firmly 3 times to
seat the disc brake pads. Check the hydraulic system for leaks.
OVERHAUL
1982-88 MODELS
Fig. 1: Rear caliper exploded view
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•
Size - the larger the wire size being used, the less resistance the wire will
have. This is why components which use large amounts of electricity
usually have large wires suppl ying current to them.
• Length - for a given thickness of wire, the longer the wire, the greater the
resistance. The shorter the wire, the less the resistance. When
determining the proper wire for a circ uit, both size and length must be
considered to design a circuit that can handle the current needs of the
component.
• Temperature - with many materials, the higher the temperature, the
greater the resistance (positive temper ature coefficient). Some materials
exhibit the opposite trait of lower re sistance with higher temperatures
(negative temperature coefficient). Thes e principles are used in many of
the sensors on the engine.
OHM'S LAW
There is a direct relationship between current, voltage and resistance. The
relationship between current, voltage and resistance can be summed up by a
statement known as Ohm's law.
Voltage (E) is equal to amper age (I) times resistance (R): E=I x ROther forms of
the formula are R=E/I and I=E/R
In each of these formulas, E is the voltage in volts, I is the current in amps and
R is the resistance in ohms. The basic point to remember is that as the
resistance of a circuit goes up, the amount of current that flows in the circuit will
go down, if voltage remains the same.
The amount of work that the electricity can perform is expressed as power. The
unit of power is the watt (w). The re lationship between power, voltage and
current is expressed as:
Power (w) is equal to amperage (I) times voltage (E): W=I x EThis is only true
for direct current (DC) circuits; The alte rnating current formula is a tad different,
but since the electrical circuits in mo st vehicles are DC type, we need not get
into AC circuit theory.
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS
POWER SOURCE
Power is supplied to the vehicle by tw o devices: The battery and the alternator.
The battery supplies electrical power dur ing starting or during periods when the
current demand of the vehicle's electrical system exceeds the output capacity of
the alternator. The alternator supplies electrical current when the engine is
running. Just not does the al ternator supply the current needs of the vehicle, but
it recharges the battery.
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Fig. 5: Weatherproof connectors ar e most commonly used in the engine
compartment or where the connecto r is exposed to the elements
TEST EQUIPMENT
Pinpointing the exact cause of trouble in an electrical circuit is most times
accomplished by the use of special te st equipment. The following describes
different types of commonly used test eq uipment and briefly explains how to
use them in diagnosis. In addition to t he information covered below, the tool
manufacturer's instructions booklet (pro vided with the tester) should be read
and clearly understood before atte mpting any test procedures.
JUMPER WIRES
CAUTION - Never use jumper wires made from a thinner gauge wire than the
circuit being tested. If the jumper wire is of too small a gauge, it may overheat
and possibly melt. Never use jumpers to bypass high resistance loads in a
circuit. Bypassing resistances, in effect, cr eates a short circuit. This may, in
turn, cause damage and fire. Jumper wi res should only be used to bypass
lengths of wire or to simulate switches.
Jumper wires are simple, yet extremel y valuable, pieces of test equipment.
They are basically test wir es which are used to bypass sections of a circuit.
Although jumper wires can be purchased, they are usually fabricated from
lengths of standard automot ive wire and whatever type of connector (alligator
clip, spade connector or pin connector) that is required for the particular
application being tested. In cramped, hard- to-reach areas, it is advisable to
have insulated boots over the jumper wire terminals in order to prevent
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1. Isolate the circuit from
the vehicle's power source.
2. Ensure that the ignition key is OFF when disconnecting any components
or the battery.
3. Where necessary, also isolate at least one side of the circuit to be
checked, in order to avoid reading parallel resistances. Parallel circuit
resistances will always give a lower reading than the actual resistance of
either of the branches.
4. Connect the meter leads to both sides of the circuit (wire or component)
and read the actual measured ohms on the meter scale. Make sure the
selector switch is set to the proper ohm scale for the circuit being tested,
to avoid misreading the oh mmeter test value.
WIRE AND CONNECTOR REPAIR
Almost anyone can replace damaged wires, as long as the proper tools and
parts are available. Wire and terminals ar e available to fit almost any need.
Even the specialized weatherproof, mol ded and hard shell connectors are now
available from aftermarket suppliers.
Be sure the ends of all the wires are fitted with t he proper terminal hardware
and connectors. Wrapping a wire around a stud is never a permanent solution
and will only cause trouble later. Repl ace wires one at a time to avoid
confusion. Always route wires exac tly the same as the factory.
If connector repair is necessary, only atte mpt it if you have the proper tools.
Weatherproof and hard shell con nectors require special tools to release the pins
inside the connector. Attempting to r epair these connectors with conventional
hand tools will damage them.
BATTERY CABLES
DISCONNECTING THE CABLES
When working on any electrical component on the vehicle, it is always a good
idea to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. This will prevent potential
damage to many sensitive electrical co mponents such as the Engine Control
Module (ECM), radio, alternator, etc.
Any time you disengage the battery cables, it is recommended that you
disconnect the negative (&mdash) battery cable first. This will prevent your
accidentally grounding the positive (+) term inal to the body of the vehicle when
disconnecting it, thereby prevent ing damage to the above mentioned
components.
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position.
This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity
trying to ground itself to the body of a vehi cle, just like a spark plug jumping the
gap) and, of course, damaging some com ponents such as the alternator diodes.