engine oil CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 User Guide
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Page 53 of 2438

should be above ADD mark. Add fluid only if level is
below ADD mark on dipstick when transaxle is
warm.The automatic transaxle does not require periodic
maintenance when used for general transportation. If
the vehicle is subjected to severe service conditions,
the automatic transaxle will require fluid/filter
change and band adjustments every 24 000 km
(15,000 miles). For additional information, refer to
Severe Service paragraph and Lubrication and Main-
tenance Schedules in General Information section of
this group. The fluid and filter should be changed
when water contamination is suspected. If fluid has
foamy or milky appearance, it is probably contami-
nated. If the fluid appears brown or dark and a foul
odor is apparent, the fluid is burned, transaxle re-
quires maintenance or service. A circular magnet lo-
cated in the transaxle pan, collects metallic particles
circulating in the oil. For proper diagnostic and ser-
vice procedures, refer to Group 21, Automatic Tran-
saxle.
SELECTING AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
Chrysler Corporation recommends Mopar ATF Plus
(automatic transmission fluid type 7176) be used to
add to or replace automatic transaxle fluid. If ATF
Plus is not available use Mopar Dexron II tAuto-
matic Transmission Fluid or equivalent.
DRIVE SHAFT CV AND TRIPOD JOINT BOOTS
The front drive shaft constant velocity and tripod
joint boots (Fig. 5) should be inspected when other
under vehicle service is performed. Inspect boots for
cracking, tears, leaks or other defects. If service re-
pair is required, refer to Group 2, Suspension.
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
The front wheel bearings are permanently sealed,
requiring no lubrication. For proper diagnostic and
service procedures refer to Group 2, Suspension.
TIRES
The tires should be inspected at every engine oil
change for proper inflation and condition. The tires
should be rotated at the distance intervals described
in the Lubrication and Maintenance Schedules of the
General Information section in this group. For tire
inflation specifications refer to the Owner's Manual.
A Tire Inflation sticker is located in the driver door
opening. For proper diagnostic procedures, see Group
22, Wheels and Tires.Fig. 2 3-speed Automatic Transaxle Fill hole
Fig. 3 4-speed Automatic Transaxle Fill tube
Fig. 4 Automatic Transaxle DipstickÐTypical
Fig. 5 Drive Shaft Boots
Ä LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 17
Page 56 of 2438

The power steering pump drive belt should be in-
spected at the time and distance interval described in
the Lubrication and Maintenance Schedules. Refer to
the General Information section of this group.
POWER STEERING FLUID INSPECTION
WARNING: ENGINE MUST NOT BE RUNNING WHEN
INSPECTING POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL,
PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: Do not over fill power steering reservoir
when adding fluid, seal damage and leakage can re-
sult.
TO INSPECT FLUID LEVEL:
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface with engine
at normal running temperature. (2) Turn OFF engine and remove ignition key.
(3) Using a wiping cloth, clean oil and dirt residue
from around power steering reservoir cap. (4) Remove reservoir cap or dipstick and wipe off
fluid. (5) Install cap or dipstick.
(6) Remove cap or dipstick. Holding handle or cap
above tip of dipstick, read fluid level (Fig. 4, 5, or 6).
Add fluid if reading is below cold level mark on dip-
stick.
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS
INSPECTION
The rear wheel bearings should be packed with
new lubricant at the distance interval described in the Lubrication and Maintenance Schedules. Refer to
the General Information section of this group. The
bearings should be inspected for contamination and
wear before they are cleaned. Slight discoloration of
bearing rollers and race cup is normal. If metal
Fig. 3 Ball Joint Lubrication
Fig. 4 Power Steering Reservoir DipstickÐ2.2L or 2.5L Engine
Fig. 5 Power Steering Reservoir DipstickÐ3.0L Engine
Fig. 6 Power Steering Reservoir DipstickÐ3.3L or3.8L Engine
0 - 20 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE Ä
Page 58 of 2438

BRAKE RESERVOIR LEVEL INSPECTION
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW PETROLEUM OR WATER
BASE LIQUIDS TO CONTAMINATE BRAKE FLUID,
SEAL DAMAGE AND BRAKE FAILURE CAN RESULT.
RELIEVE PRESSURE IN ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYS-
TEM BEFORE ADDING BRAKE FLUID TO RESER-
VOIR. IF NOT, BRAKE FLUID COULD DISCHARGED
FROM THE RESERVOIR POSSIBLY CAUSING PER-
SONAL INJURY.
The brake reservoir level should be inspected when
other under hood service is performed. It is normal
for the reservoir level to drop as disc brake pads
wear. When fluid must be added, use Mopar, Brake
Fluid or equivalent. Use only brake fluid conforming
to DOT 3, Federal, Department of Transportation
specification. To avoid brake fluid contamination, use
fluid from a properly sealed container. On vehicles with anti-lock brakes, depressurize the
system before inspecting fluid level. Turn OFF the
ignition and remove the key. Pump the brake pedal
at least 50 times to relieve the pressure in the sys-
tem.
On all vehicles, if fluid should become low after sev-
eral thousand kilometers (miles), fill the reservoir to
level marks on the side of the reservoir (Fig. 8 or 9).
HEADLAMPS
The headlamps should be inspected for intensity
and aim whenever a problem is suspected. When lug-
gage compartment is heavily loaded, the headlamp
aim should be adjusted to compensate for vehicle
height change. For proper service procedures, refer to
Group 8L, Lamps. DRIVER SUPPLEMENTAL AIRBAG SYSTEM
If the AIRBAG indicator lamp does not light at all,
stays lit or lights momentarily or continuously while
driving, a malfunction may have occurred. Prompt service is required. Refer to Group 8M, Restraint
Systems for proper diagnostic procedures.
BODY LUBRICATION
Body mechanisms and linkages should be inspected,
cleaned and lubricated as required to maintain ease of
operation and to prevent corrosion and wear. Before a component is lubricated, oil, grease and dirt
should be wiped off. If necessary, use solvent to clean
component to be lubricated. After lubrication is com-
plete, wipe off excess grease or oil. During winter season, external lock cylinders should
be lubricated with Mopar, Lock Lubricant or equiva-
lent to ensure proper operation when exposed to water
and ice. To assure proper hood latching component operation,
use engine oil to lubricate the lock, safety catch and
hood hinges when other under hood service is per-
formed. Mopar, Multi-purpose Grease or equivalent
should be applied sparingly to all pivot and slide
contact areas.
USE ENGINE OIL ON:
² Door hingesÐHinge pin and pivot points.
² Hood hingesÐPivot points.
² Luggage compartment lid hingesÐPivot points.
USE MOPAR LUBRIPLATE OR EQUIVALENT ON:
² Door check straps.
² Hood counterbalance springs.
² Luggage compartment lid latches.
² Luggage compartment lid prop rod pivots.
² Ash tray slides.
² Fuel Fill Door latch mechanism.
² Park brake mechanism.
² Front seat tracks.
Fig. 8 Anti-lock Brake Reservoir
Fig. 9 Master Cylinder Brake ReservoirÐExcept
Anti-lock
0 - 22 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE Ä
Page 99 of 2438

(8) Insert balls into raceway by tilting cage and in-
ner race assembly (Fig. 7). (9) Fasten boot to shaft. See Boots Install.
(10) On G.K.N. units insert the new circlip, pro-
vided with kit in shaft groove. Do not over expand
or twist circlip during assembly (Fig. 8). The S.S.G.
unit has a reusable circlip retainer that is an inte-
gral part of driver assembly.
(11) Position outer joint on splined end with hub
nut on stub shaft. Engage splines, and tap sharply
with mallet (Fig. 9). (12) Check that circlip is properly seated by at-
tempting to pull joint from the shaft. (13) Locate large end of boot over joint housing
checking that boot is not twisted. (14) Fasten boot to housing. See Boots Install.
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLY RECONDITION
Reconditioning of intermediate shaft assembly (Fig.
1), for Equal Length Drive Shaft System vehicles is
the same for manual and automatic transaxles.
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
REMOVE
(1) Remove right driveshaft. See Driveshaft As-
semblies Remove. (2) Remove speedometer pinion from the extension
housing (Fig. 2). (3) Remove the two bolts which mount the bearing
assembly bracket to the engine block (Fig. 1). (4) Remove assembly from transaxle extension by
pulling outward on the yoke (Fig. 3).
UNIVERSAL JOINT AND ROLLER
Disassemble
(1) Mark relationship of shaft to shaft to ensure
proper alignment at assembly. Apply penetrating oil
to bushings and remove snap rings. (2) Support yoke in vise and place a socket large
enough to receive bushing on top of yoke. A 1-1/8
inch socket is suitable (Fig. 4). (3) Striking socket with hammer will cause yoke to
move down and bushing to move up out of yoke into
socket. (4) After removing one bushing, turn parts in a
vise and remove other bushing in same manner.
Assemble (1) Hold cross in position between yoke ears with
one hand and start one bushing assembly into yoke
with other hand (Fig. 5). (2) Continue to hold cross in position, then ham-
mer bushing assembly into yoke and install snap
ring. (3) Install opposite bushing and snap ring in the
same manner.
Fig. 7 Inserting Balls into Raceway
Fig. 8 Installing New Circlip
Fig. 9 Position Joint onto Shaft Splines
Ä SUSPENSION AND DRIVESHAFTS 2 - 41
Page 102 of 2438

(3) Swing the bracket into position on the engine and
loosely install the screws through the slotted holes. (4) Push the intermediate shaft assembly into the
transaxle as far as it can travel. Hold the assembly in
this position and tighten the screws (bracket to engine
block) to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) torque. This will ensure
full seal engagement between the journal on the
intermediate shaft and the seal in the transaxle
extension. (5) Distribute a liberal amount of grease in side
spline and pilot bore on bearing end of intermediate
shaft. Use MOPAR Multi-Purpose Lubricant, or
equivalent. (6) Install speedometer pinion (Fig. 9).
(7) Install right driveshaft. See Driveshaft Assem-
blies Install.
C/V JOINT BOOTS Handling and Cleaning
It is vitally important during anyservice procedures
requiring boot handling. That care be taken not to
puncture or tear the boot by over tightening clamps,
misuse of tool(s) or pinching the boot. Pinching can
occur by rotating the C/V joints (especially the tripod)
beyond normal working angles.
The driveshaft boots are not compatible with oil, gaso-
line, or cleaning solvents. Care must be taken that boots
never come in contact with any of these liquids. The only
acceptable cleaning agent for driveshaft boots is
soap and water. After washing, boot must be thor-
oughly rinsed and dried before reusing.
BOOTS INSPECT
Noticeable amounts of grease on areas adjacent to or
on the exterior of the C/V joint boot. Is the first
indication that a boot is punctured, torn or that a
clamp has loosened. When a C/V joint is removed for
servicing of the joint. The boot should be properly
cleaned and inspected for cracks, tears and scuffed
areas on interior surfaces. If any of these conditions
exist, boot replacement is recommended.
BOOTS INSTALL
THE HARD PLASTIC BOOTS REQUIRE APPROXI-
MATELY 100TIMES THE CLAMPING FORCE OF THE
RUBBER BOOT. THE CLAMPS USED ON THE RUB-
BER BOOTS DO NOT HAVE THE TYPE OF LOAD
CAPACITY REQUIRED. TO SEAL THE HARD PLASTIC
BOOTS AND SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR THIS PUR-
POSE.
Rubber boots appear only on the inner joints of
certain driveshafts.
Fig. 9 Install Speedometer PinionFig. 1 C/V Joint Boot Positioning G.K.N.
Fig. 8 Installing Intermediate Shaft Assembly
2 - 44 SUSPENSION AND DRIVESHAFTS Ä
Page 161 of 2438

BRAKE HOSE AND TUBING
INSPECTION OF BRAKE HOSE AND TUBING
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes and
at the rear axle. Inspection of brake hoses should be
performed whenever the brake system is serviced and
every 7,500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first
(every engine oil change). Inspect hydraulic brake
hoses for severe surface cracking, scuffing, or worn
spots. Should the fabric casing of the rubber hose be
exposed due to cracks or abrasions in the rubber hose
cover, the hose should be replaced immediately. Even-
tual deterioration of the hose can take place with
possible burst failure. Faulty installation can cause
twisting and wheel, tire or chassis interference. The steel brake tubing should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of physical damage or contact with
moving or hot components.
INSTALLATION OF BRAKE HOSE
Always use factory recommended brake hose to en-
sure quality, correct length and superior fatigue life.
Care should be taken to make sure that the tube and
hose mating surfaces are clean and free from nicks and
burrs. Front right and left side hoses are not
interchangeable. Connections should be correct and properly made.
Use new copper seal washers on all connections using
Banjo Bolts and tighten all fittings to their specified
torques. The flexible front hydraulic brake hose should al-
ways be installed on the vehicle by first attaching the
Banjo connector to the caliper assembly. Then bolt the
intermediate hose bracket to the strut assembly allow-
ing the bracket to position the hose to prevent twisting.
Attach the hose to the body bracket and steel brake
tubing. Tighten all fittings to specified torque. The
body bracket and hose end are keyed so that they will
only fit one way. Install rear brake hoses first to the trailing arm
tubes and then to the floor pan tubes. Minimize hose
twisting. Vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes have
brake hoses attached to the caliper on each side. The
brake hose should be first attached by the Banjo bolt to
the caliper and then secured to the hose bracket with
the retaining clip. The attach the steel brake tubing to
the hose fitting.
REPAIR AND INSTALLATION OF BRAKE TUB- ING
Only double wall 4.75mm (3/16 in.) steel tubing
should be used for replacement. Care should be taken
when replacing brake tubing, to be sure the proper
bending and flaring tools and procedures are used, to
avoid kinking. Do not route the tubes against sharp edges, moving components or into hot areas. All
tubes should be properly attached with recommended
retaining clips.
TYPES OF TUBING FLARES
Two different tubing flares (Fig. 13) are used on 93
M.Y. vehicles. On some ABS brake systems the tub-
ing connections made to the hydraulic assembly use
an ISO flare. All other ABS brake system compo-
nent, tubing connections are made using a double in-
verted flare. On non-ABS brake systems all
component tubing connections use only the double in-
verted flare. No ISO flares are used.
CAUTION: ALWAYS USE THE PROPER FLARING
TOOL AND PROCEDURE, FOR THE TYPE OF
BRAKE SYSTEM THAT IS BEING SERVICED TO IN-
SURE THE INTEGRITY OF THE HYDRAULIC SYS-
TEM.
TO REPAIR OR FLARE TUBING
Using Tubing Cutter, Special Tool C-3478-A or
equivalent, cut off damaged seat or tubing (Fig. 14).
Ream out any burrs or rough edges showing on in-
side of tubing (Fig. 15). This will make the ends of
tubing square (Fig. 15) and ensure better seating of
flared end tubing. PLACE TUBE NUT ON TUB-
ING BEFORE FLARING THE TUBING.
DOUBLE INVERTED TUBING FLARES.
To make a double inverted tubing flare (Fig. 13 &
16). Open handles of Flaring Tool, Special Tool
C-4047 or equivalent. Then rotate jaws of tool until
the mating jaws of tubing size are centered between
vertical posts on tool. Slowly close handles with tub-
Fig. 13 Identifying Hydraulic Brake Tubing Flares
Ä BRAKES 5 - 11
Page 221 of 2438

seal, a new seal should be used when reinstalling the
inner bearing. (See Fig. 1) (5) Thoroughly clean all old grease from the outer
and inner bearings, bearing cups and hub cavity (See
Fig. 1). To clean bearings, soak them in an ap-
propriate cleaning solvent. Strike the flat sur-
face of the bearing inner race against a
hardwood block several times. Immerse the
bearings in solvent between the blows to jar
grease loose and wash old particles of hardened
grease from bearings. Repeat this operation un-
til bearings are clean. Bearings can be dried
using compressed air but do not spin the bear-
ings. After cleaning, oil the bearings with engine
oil. Insert the bearing into its appropriate cup,
apply pressure to the bearing while rotating it to
test them for pitting and roughness. Replace all
worn or defective bearings. If bearing shows signs of pitting or roughness they should be
replaced. Bearings must be replaced as a set,
both the cup and the bearing need to be replaced
at the same time. If bearings are suitable for
further use, remove engine oil from bearings
using appropriate solvent and dry bearings. Re-
pack the bearings using a Multi-Purpose NLGI.
Grade 2 EP Grease such as Mopar or equivalent,
and place them in a clean covered container
until ready for installation. If a bearing packer is
not available, hand pack grease into all cavities
between bearing cage and rollers. (6) If bearings and cups are to be replaced, remove
cups from the drum or hub using a brass drift or
suitable remover. (7) Replace bearing cups with appropriate installing
tool. (8) Install inner bearing in grease coated hub and
bearing cup, and install new grease seals using the
appropriate seal installer. (9) Coat hub cavity and cup with grease.
(10) Before installing hub or drum assembly, inspect
stub axle and seal surface for burrs or roughness, and
smooth out all rough surfaces. (11) Coat the stub axle with Multi-Purpose NLGI,
Grade 2 EP grease such as Mopar or equivalent. (12) Carefully slide the hub of drum assembly onto
the stub axle. Do not drag seal or inner bearing
over the threaded area of the stub axle. (13) Install outer bearing, thrust washer and nut.
(14) Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 27 to
34 N Im (240 to 300 in. lbs.) while rotating hub or drum
assembly. This seats the bearings. (15) Back off adjusting nut 1/4 turn (90É) then
tighten adjusting nut only finger tight. (16) Position the nut lock over the bearing adjusting
nut with one pair of slots in line with the cotter pin hole
in the stub axle, and install cotter pin. (17) Install the grease caps and the wheel and tire
assemblies. Tighten wheel stud nuts to 115 N Im (85 ft.
lbs.) on all models. reinstall wheel covers if so
equipped.
Fig. 1 Rear Wheel Bearings
Ä BRAKES 5 - 71
Page 333 of 2438

MANUAL TRANSAXLE CLUTCH
CONTENTS
page page
CLEANING PRECAUTIONS ................. 6
CLUTCH CABLE MECHANISM .............. 1
CLUTCH CABLE REPLACEMENT ............ 2
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS ........... 1
CLUTCH DISC REPLACEMENT ............. 5
CLUTCH PEDAL NOISE/POP ............... 2 CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
......... 4
EXCESSIVE CLUTCH SPIN TIME/CLASH INTO REVERSE COMPLAINTS ............ 1
GENERAL INFORMATION .................. 1
RELEASE BEARING AND FORK ............. 6
GENERAL INFORMATION
Throughout this group, references may be made to
a particular vehicle by letter or number designation.
A chart showing the breakdown of these designations
is included in the Introduction Section at the front of
this service manual. The clutch used in all models are a single, dry disc
type with no adjustment for wear being provided in
the clutch itself. The clutch pedal is connected to the release shaft
through a cable and lever. The upper end of the clutch pedal pivots in the
pedal bracket on two nylon bushings. These bushings
do not require periodic lubrication.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If
chatter persists: (2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct
and operates smoothly. (3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints has been satisfied. If not, (4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle, for procedure. (5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or
binding. Replace bearing, if needed. (6) Check linkage for excessive wear on bushings.
Replace all worn parts. A small amount of bearing
grease between the release shaft bushings and the
shaft is beneficial, but not required. (7) Check flywheel and clutch pressure plate for
contamination (dirt, oil) or scored. Replace flywheel
and/or pressure plate, if required. (8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged. Replace with new disc. (9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace
if necessary. (10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
EXCESSIVE CLUTCH SPIN TIME/CLASH INTO
REVERSE COMPLAINTS
For all excessive clutch spin time/clash into reverse
complaints, do the following: (1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After
three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present,
clutch has excessive spin time. (2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle, for procedure. (3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc splines
and release bearing for dry rust. If present, clean
rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease to
the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input
shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. (4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged, replace with new disc if required. (5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines. Re-
place as necessary. (6) Check for excessive clutch disc runout or
warpage. (7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
CLUTCH CABLE MECHANISM
The manual transaxle clutch release system has a
unique self-adjusting mechanism to compensate for
clutch disc wear. This adjuster mechanism is located
within the clutch pedal. The preload spring main-
tains tension on the cable. This tension keeps the
clutch release bearing continuously loaded against
the fingers of the clutch cover assembly. When the pedal is depressed, teeth on the adjuster
and the positioner engage and pull the release cable.
A spring located behind the adjuster ensures proper
tooth engagement. When the pedal is released, the adjuster contacts
the bumper. This separates the adjuster and posi-
tioner teeth, allowing the preload spring to function.
Ä MANUAL TRANSAXLE CLUTCH 6 - 1
Page 336 of 2438

CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
The clutch pedal position switch functions as a
safety interlock device. It prevents possible engine
cranking with the clutch engaged. The clutch pedal position switch is wired in series
between the starter relay coil and the ignition
switch. The clutch pedal position switch is mounted to a
bracket located next to the clutch pedal. The switch
is held in place by four plastic wing tabs. The clutch pedal position switch has an adjustable
striker plate. The striker plate is located on the left
side of the clutch pedal (Fig. 3).
DIAGNOSIS
Disconnect clutch pedal position switch harness
from instrument panel wiring harness. Using a ohm
meter, check for continuity between the two termi-
nals in the connector on the switch harness. There
should be no continuity between the terminals when
the switch is in its neutral (fully extended) position.
When the switch is depressed more than 1.25 mm
(0.050) the ohm meter should show continuity. If all ohm meter readings are correct and the
switch does not operate correctly, adjustment is re-
quired. Refer to Switch Adjustment Procedure to ad-
just switch.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect electrical harness to switch connec-
tor. (2) Depress wing tabs on switch and push switch out
of mounting bracket. Then slide wires through slot in
bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide switch wires through slot in switch bracket.
(2) Line up switch tab with slot in switch bracket
and push switch into position. Do not pull on the switch
wires to seat switch into bracket, switch damage may
occur. (3) After installation, the switch must be adjusted
and checked for proper operation. Refer to Switch
Adjustment Procedure.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
When performing switch adjustment, the floor mat
should be removed before beginning adjustment proce-
dures. (1) Set the park brake.
(2) Disconnect clutch cable at the transaxle end of
the cable. (3) Depress clutch pedal, loosen adjusting nut and
slide the striker plate forward to fully compress the
clutch pedal position switch plunger. (4) Tighten adjusting nut to 12 N Im (105 in. lbs.).
(5) Reconnect clutch cable.
The clutch pedal position switch is now ad-
justed. A final check is required to insure that the
switch is ``made'' below the clutch release point. (1) With the park brake set and the vehicle IN
NEUTRAL turn the key to the start position. The
vehicle should not crank. If the vehicle cranks do
not continue with this test. Recheck the switch and
switch adjustment to determine the cause. If the ve-
hicle does not crank proceed to step 2. (2) With the park brake set and the vehicle IN
GEAR turn the key to the start position.
WARNING: BEFORE PERFORMING STEP THREE BE
SURE THAT THE AREA IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE
IS CLEAR OF OBSTRUCTIONS AND PEOPLE. VE-
HICLE MAY MOVE WHEN PERFORMING THIS TEST.
(3) Slowly depress the clutch pedal and feel for any
vehicle motion when the starter is energized. If there is
no motion the switch is properly adjusted. If motion is
felt, repeat the adjustment procedure.
Fig. 3 Clutch Pedal Position Switch and Components
6 - 4 MANUAL TRANSAXLE CLUTCH Ä
Page 337 of 2438

CLUTCH DISC REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle, for procedure. (2) Mark clutch cover and flywheel, to maintain
their same relative positions when installing clutch
assembly (Fig. 4). (3) Insert Clutch Disc Aligning Tool C-4676
through the clutch disc hub to prevent the clutch disc
from falling and damaging the facings (Fig. 5). (4) Loosen clutch cover attaching bolts, one or two
turns at a time, in a crisscross pattern, to release
spring pressure evenly and avoid cover damage.
CAUTION: Do not touch the clutch disc facing with
oily or dirty hands. Oil or dirt transferred from your
hands onto the clutch disc facing may cause clutch
chatter.
(5) Remove the clutch pressure plate and cover as-
sembly and disc from flywheel. Handle carefully to
avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect for oil leakage through engine rear
main bearing oil seal and transaxle input shaft seal.
If leakage is noted, it should be corrected at this
time. (2) The friction faces of the flywheel and pressure
plate should not have excessive discoloration, burned
areas, small cracks, deep grooves, or ridges. Replace
parts as required.
CAUTION: Do not polish flywheel to a ``mirror like''
surface.
Fig. 4 Manual Transaxle Clutch
Fig. 5 Clutch Disc Aligning Tool
Ä MANUAL TRANSAXLE CLUTCH 6 - 5