tire size DODGE RAM 2001 Service Repair Manual

VEHICLE SAFETY
CERTIFICATION LABEL
DESCRIPTION
A vehicle safety certification label (Fig. 5) is
attached to every Chrysler Corporation vehicle. The
label certifies that the vehicle conforms to all appli-
cable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. The
label also lists:
²Month and year of vehicle manufacture.
²Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The gross
front and rear axle weight ratings (GAWR's) are
based on a minimum rim size and maximum cold tire
inflation pressure.
²Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
²Type of vehicle.
²Type of rear wheels.
²Bar code.
²Month, Day and Hour (MDH) of final assembly.
²Paint and Trim codes.
²Country of origin.
The label is located on the driver-side door shut-
face.
EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION
PLATE
DESCRIPTION
The Equipment Identification Plate (Fig. 6) is
located at the left, front of the inner hood panel. The
plate lists information concerning the vehicle as fol-
lows:
²The model.²The wheelbase.
²The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).
²The T.O.N. (order number).
²The optional and special equipment installed on
the vehicle.
Refer to the information listed on the plate when
ordering replacement parts.
Fig. 5 Vehicle Safety Certification Label
Fig. 6 Equipment Identification Plate
12 INTRODUCTIONBR/BE

OPERATION
²CASTERis the forward or rearward tilt of the
steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the
knuckle rearward provides positive caster. Tilting the
top of the knuckle forward provides negative caster.
Caster is a directional stability angle which enables
the front wheels to return to a straight ahead posi-
tion after turns.
²CAMBERis the inward or outward tilt of the
wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the
top of the wheel inward provides negative camber.
Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive
camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the
inside or outside edge of the tire.
²WHEEL TOE POSITIONis the difference
between the leading inside edges and trailing inside
edges of the front tires. Incorrect wheel toe position
is the most common cause of unstable steering and
uneven tire wear. The wheel toe position is thefinal
front wheel alignment adjustment.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE-ALIGNMENT
Before starting wheel alignment, the following
inspection and necessary corrections must be com-
pleted. Refer to Suspension and Steering System
Diagnosis Chart for additional information.
(1) Inspect tires for size and tread wear.
(2) Set tire air pressure.
(3) Inspect front wheel bearings for wear.
(4) Inspect front wheels for excessive radial or lat-
eral runout and balance.
(5) Inspect ball studs, linkage pivot points and
steering gear for looseness, roughness or binding.
(6) Inspect suspension components for wear and
noise.
(7) Road test the vehicle.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - ALIGNMENT I.F.S.
Before each alignment reading the vehicle should
be jounced (rear first, then front). Grasp each
bumper at the center and jounce the vehicle up and
Fig. 2 Alignment Angles - Link/Coil
1 - WHEEL CENTERLINE
2 - NEGATIVE CAMBER ANGLE
3 - PIVOT CENTERLINE
4 - SCRUB RADIUS
5 - TRUE VERTICAL6 - KING PIN
7 - VERTICAL
8 - POSITIVE CASTER
2 - 2 WHEEL ALIGNMENTBR/BE
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

The drum forces both brake shoes to move in the
same direction of rotation. Servo action begins with
the primary brake shoe which begins to wedge (or
wrap) itself against the rotating drum surface. This
force is transmitted equally to the secondary brake
shoe through the adjuster screw and anchor pin. The
net result is that each shoe helps the other exert
extra force against the drum. It is servo action that
creates the wedging (or wrap) effect which produces
increased force on the drum braking surface.
All drum brake assemblies are equipped with a self
adjusting mechanism. The components forming the
mechanism consist of the: adjuster screw, adjuster
lever, actuating lever (11 inch brake), lever return
spring and the adjuster lever spring. The adjuster
lever on the 12 inch brake, is also equipped with a
lever and tension spring.
The adjuster mechanism performs two important
functions. First, is in maintaining proper brake shoe
operating clearance. And second, is to maintain brake
pedal height. The mechanism does so, by adjusting
the shoes in small increments to compensate for lin-
ing wear. The adjustment process is continuous
throughout the useful life of the brake lining.
The adjuster components are all connected to the
secondary brake shoes. Actual adjustment only
occurs during reverse brake stops. Secondary brake
shoe movement (during reverse stops), is what acti-
vates the adjuster components.
In operation, secondary shoe movement causes the
adjuster lever spring to exert pull on the lever. This
pivots the lever away from the adjuster screw teeth.
When the stop is completed and the brakes released,
the adjuster lever pivots back to a normal position. It
is during this return movement of the lever when
adjustment occurs. At this point, the lever comes
back into contact with the adjuster screw teeth as it
moves upward. The lever will then rotate the
adjuster screw one or two teeth as needed for adjust-
ment.
NOTE: The adjustment process requires a complete
stop to actually occur. Rolling stops will NOT acti-
vate the adjuster components. In addition, the
adjuster screws are left and right hand parts and
must NOT be interchanged.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE DRUM
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is indicated on the drum outer edge.
Generally, a drum can be machined to a maximum of
1.52 mm (0.060 in.) oversize. Always replace the
drum if machining would cause drum diameter to
exceed the size limit indicated on the drum.
BRAKE DRUM RUNOUT
Measure drum diameter and runout with an accu-
rate gauge. The most accurate method of measure-
ment involves mounting the drum in a brake lathe
and checking variation and runout with a dial indi-
cator.
Variations in drum diameter should not exceed
0.069 mm (0.0028 in.). Drum runout should not
exceed 0.18 mm (0.007 in.) out of round. Machine the
drum if runout or variation exceed these values.
Replace the drum if machining causes the drum to
exceed the maximum allowable diameter.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE DRUM
MACHINING
The brake drums can be machined on a drum lathe
when necessary. Initial machining cuts should be lim-
ited to 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.) at a time as
heavier feed rates can produce taper and surface
variation. Final finish cuts of 0.025 to 0.038 mm
(0.001 to 0.0015 in.) are recommended and will gen-
erally provide the best surface finish.
Be sure the drum is securely mounted in the lathe
before machining operations. A damper strap should
always be used around the drum to reduce vibration
and avoid chatter marks.
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is stamped or cast into the drum
outer edge.
CAUTION: Replace the drum if machining will cause
the drum to exceed the maximum allowable diame-
ter.
CLEANING
Clean the individual brake components, including
the support plate and wheel cylinder exterior, with a
water dampened cloth or with brake cleaner. Do not
use any other cleaning agents. Remove light rust and
scale from the brake shoe contact pads on the sup-
port plate with fine sandpaper.
INSPECTION
As a general rule, riveted brake shoes should be
replaced when worn to within 0.78 mm (1/32 in.) of
the rivet heads. Bonded lining should be replaced
when worn to a thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).
Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 33
DRUM (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING SYSTEM
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound evident at a
standstill parking. Or when the steering wheel is at the end of it's travel. Hiss is a high frequency noise similar
to that of a water tap being closed slowly. The noise is present in all valves that have a high velocity fluid passing
through an orifice. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance.
STEERING NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONAL HISS OR
WHISTLE1. Steering intermediate shaft to dash panel
seal.1. Check and repair seal at dash
panel.
2. Noisy valve in power steering gear. 2. Repair steering gear.
RATTLE OR CLUNK 1. Gear mounting bolts loose. 1. Tighten bolts to specification.
2. Loose or damaged suspension
components.2. Inspect and repair suspension.
3. Loose or damaged steering linkage. 3. Inspect and repair steering
linkage.
4. Internal gear noise. 4. Repair steering gear.
5. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.5. Reposition hose.
6. Loose or damaged intermediate shaft or
column.6. Inspect and repair or replace.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose belt. 1. Adjust or replace.
WHINE OR GROWL 1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.2. Reposition hose.
3. Internal pump noise. 3. Replace pump.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose return line clamp. 1. Replace clamp.
2. O-ring missing or damaged on hose
fitting.2. Replace o-ring.
3. Low fluid level. 3. Fill to proper level.
4. Air leak between pump and reservoir. 4. Repair as necessary.
5. Reservoir cap not installed correctly. 5. Install reservoir cap correctly.
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING1. Wrong tire size. 1. Verify tire size.
2. Wrong gear. 2. Verify gear.
19 - 2 STEERINGBR/BE
STEERING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
11. Pump Seal Leaks/Worn/
Damaged.11. Replace seal.
12. Torque Converter Weld
Leak/Cracked Hub.12. Replace converter.
13. Case Porosity Leaks. 13. Replace case.
NOISY OPERATION IN
FOURTH GEAR ONLY1. Overdrive Clutch Discs, Plates or
Snap Rings Damaged.1. Remove unit and rebuild clutch pack.
2. Overdrive Piston or Planetary
Thrust Bearing Damaged.2. Remove and disassemble unit. Replace
either thrust bearing if damaged.
3. Output Shaft Bearings Scored/
Damaged.3. Remove and disassemble unit. Replace
either bearing if damaged.
4. Planetary Gears Worn/Chipped. 4. Remove and overhaul overdrive unit.
5. Overdrive Unit Overrunning Clutch
Rollers Worn/Scored.5. Remove and overhaul overdrive unit.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ALUMINUM
THREAD REPAIR
Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum trans-
mission case and valve body can be repaired by the
use of Heli-CoilsŸ, or equivalent. This repair con-
sists of drilling out the worn-out damaged threads.
Then tap the hole with a special Heli-CoilŸ tap, or
equivalent, and installing a Heli-CoilŸ insert, or
equivalent, into the hole. This brings the hole back to
its original thread size.
Heli-CoilŸ, or equivalent, tools and inserts are
readily available from most automotive parts suppliers.
REMOVAL
The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced
separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire
transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit
repairs.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary
exhaust components.
(3) Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if
equipped (Fig. 13).
(4) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(5) Remove starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
(6) Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position
sensor. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJEC-
TION/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL) Retain the sensor attaching bolts.
(7) Remove torque converter access cover.
(8)
If transmission is being removed for overhaul,
remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall
pan.
(9) Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube
out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal (Fig. 13). On
4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove boltattaching transfer case vent tube to converter hous-
ing (Fig. 14).
(10) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.
(11) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for
assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove
propeller shaft. On4x4models, remove both propel-
ler shafts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
Fig. 13 Transmission-To-Engine Strut Attachment
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - STRUT (PASSENGER SIDE)
3 - ENGINE MOUNT
4 - STRUT (DRIVER SIDE)
BR/BEAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 159
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)

materials will adhere to component surfaces and
could restrict or block fluid passages after assembly.
INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 218) and (Fig.
219).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 220). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 217).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 221). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 221). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 216).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
216).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
Fig. 217 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
21 - 248 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REBR/BE
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - ALUMINUM
THREAD REPAIR
Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum trans-
mission case and valve body can be repaired by the
use of Heli-CoilsŸ, or equivalent. This repair con-
sists of drilling out the worn-out damaged threads.
Then tap the hole with a special Heli-CoilŸ tap, or
equivalent, and installing a Heli-CoilŸ insert, or
equivalent, into the hole. This brings the hole back to
its original thread size.
Heli-CoilŸ, or equivalent, tools and inserts are
readily available from most automotive parts suppli-
ers.
REMOVAL
The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced
separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire
transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit
repairs.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary
exhaust components.
(3) Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if
equipped (Fig. 13).
(4) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(5) Remove starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)(6) Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position
sensor. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJEC-
TION/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL) Retain the sensor attaching bolts.
(7) Remove torque converter access cover.
(8) If transmission is being removed for overhaul,
remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall
pan.
(9) Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube
out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal (Fig. 13). On
4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt
attaching transfer case vent tube to converter hous-
ing (Fig. 14).
(10) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.
(11) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for
assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove
propeller shaft. On4x4models, remove both propel-
ler shafts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
ELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT -
REMOVAL)
(12) Disconnect wires from park/neutral position
switch and transmission solenoid.
(13) Disconnect gearshift rod and torque shaft
assembly from transmission.
(14) Disconnect throttle valve cable from transmis-
sion bracket and throttle valve lever.
(15) On4x4models, disconnect shift rod from
transfer case shift lever.
(16) Support rear of engine with safety stand or
jack.
Fig. 13 Transmission-To-Engine Strut Attachment
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - STRUT (PASSENGER SIDE)
3 - ENGINE MOUNT
4 - STRUT (DRIVER SIDE)
Fig. 14 Fill Tube Attachment
1 - TRANSFER CASE VENT TUBE
2 - FILL TUBE (V8)
3 - TUBE SEAL
4 - FILL TUBE (V6)
21 - 330 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 44REBR/BE
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 44RE (Continued)

INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 216) and (Fig.
217).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 218). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 217).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 219). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 219). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 216).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
216).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
Fig. 215 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
BR/BEAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 44RE 21 - 419
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
11. Pump Seal Leaks/Worn/
Damaged.11. Replace seal.
12. Torque Converter Weld
Leak/Cracked Hub.12. Replace converter.
13. Case Porosity Leaks. 13. Replace case.
NOISY OPERATION IN
FOURTH GEAR ONLY1. Overdrive Clutch Discs, Plates or
Snap Rings Damaged.1. Remove unit and rebuild clutch pack.
2. Overdrive Piston or Planetary
Thrust Bearing Damaged.2. Remove and disassemble unit. Replace
either thrust bearing if damaged.
3. Output Shaft Bearings Scored/
Damaged.3. Remove and disassemble unit. Replace
either bearing if damaged.
4. Planetary Gears Worn/Chipped. 4. Remove and overhaul overdrive unit.
5. Overdrive Unit Overrunning Clutch
Rollers Worn/Scored.5. Remove and overhaul overdrive unit.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ALUMINUM
THREAD REPAIR
Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum transmis-
sion case and valve body can be repaired by the use of
Heli-CoilsŸ, or equivalent. This repair consists of drill-
ing out the worn-out damaged threads. Then tap the hole
with a special Heli-CoilŸ tap, or equivalent, and install-
ing a Heli-CoilŸ insert, or equivalent, into the hole. This
brings the hole back to its original thread size.
Heli-CoilŸ, or equivalent, tools and inserts are
readily available from most automotive parts suppliers.
REMOVAL
The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced sep-
arately. It is not necessary to remove the entire trans-
mission assembly to perform overdrive unit repairs.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary
exhaust components.
(3) Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if
equipped (Fig. 13).
(4) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(5) Remove starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
(6) Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position
sensor. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJEC-
TION/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL) Retain the sensor attaching bolts.
(7) Remove torque converter access cover.
(8) If transmission is being removed for overhaul,
remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall
pan.
(9) Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube
out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal (Fig. 13). On
4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt
attaching transfer case vent tube to converter hous-
ing (Fig. 14).(10) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.
(11) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for
assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove
propeller shaft. On4x4models, remove both propel-
ler shafts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
ELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT -
REMOVAL)
Fig. 13 Transmission-To-Engine Strut Attachment
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - STRUT (PASSENGER SIDE)
3 - ENGINE MOUNT
4 - STRUT (DRIVER SIDE)
21 - 502 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 46REBR/BE
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 46RE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
11. Pump Seal Leaks/Worn/
Damaged.11. Replace seal.
12. Torque Converter Weld
Leak/Cracked Hub.12. Replace converter.
13. Case Porosity Leaks. 13. Replace case.
NOISY OPERATION IN
FOURTH GEAR ONLY1. Overdrive Clutch Discs, Plates or
Snap Rings Damaged.1. Remove unit and rebuild clutch pack.
2. Overdrive Piston or Planetary
Thrust Bearing Damaged.2. Remove and disassemble unit. Replace
either thrust bearing if damaged.
3. Output Shaft Bearings Scored/
Damaged.3. Remove and disassemble unit. Replace
either bearing if damaged.
4. Planetary Gears Worn/Chipped. 4. Remove and overhaul overdrive unit.
5. Overdrive Unit Overrunning Clutch
Rollers Worn/Scored.5. Remove and overhaul overdrive unit.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ALUMINUM
THREAD REPAIR
Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum trans-
mission case and valve body can be repaired by the
use of Heli-CoilsŸ, or equivalent. This repair con-
sists of drilling out the worn-out damaged threads.
Then tap the hole with a special Heli-CoilŸ tap, or
equivalent, and installing a Heli-CoilŸ insert, or
equivalent, into the hole. This brings the hole back to
its original thread size.
Heli-CoilŸ, or equivalent, tools and inserts are
readily available from most automotive parts suppliers.
REMOVAL
The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced
separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire
transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit
repairs.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary
exhaust components.
(3) Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if
equipped (Fig. 13).
(4) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(5) Remove starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
(6) Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position
sensor. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJEC-
TION/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL) Retain the sensor attaching bolts.
(7) Remove torque converter access cover.
(8)
If transmission is being removed for overhaul,
remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall
pan.
(9) Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube
out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal (Fig. 13). On
4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove boltattaching transfer case vent tube to converter hous-
ing (Fig. 14).
(10) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.
(11)
Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for assem-
bly alignment. Then disconnect and remove propeller
shaft. On4x4models, remove both propeller shafts.
(Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPEL-
LER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
Fig. 13 Transmission-To-Engine Strut Attachment
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - STRUT (PASSENGER SIDE)
3 - ENGINE MOUNT
4 - STRUT (DRIVER SIDE)
BR/BEAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47RE 21 - 673
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47RE (Continued)