tow DODGE RAM 2002 Service User Guide

GEAR CONTACT PATTERN
The ring and pinion gear contact patterns will
show if the pinion depth is correct. It will also show
if the ring gear backlash has been adjusted correctly.
The backlash can be adjusted within specifications to
achieve desired tooth contact patterns.
(1) Apply a thin coat of hydrated ferric oxide or
equivalent to the drive and coast side of the ring gear
teeth.
(2) Wrap, twist and hold a shop towel around the
pinion yoke to increase the turning resistance of the
pinion. This will provide a more distinct contact pat-
tern.(3) With a boxed end wrench on the ring gear bolt,
rotate the differential case one complete revolution in
both directions while a load is being applied from
shop towel.
The areas on the ring gear teeth with the greatest
degree of contact against the pinion teeth will squee-
gee the compound to the areas with the least amount
of contact. Note and compare patterns on the ring
gear teeth to Gear Tooth Contact Patterns chart (Fig.
21)and adjust pinion depth and gear backlash as nec-
essary.
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 267RBI 3 - 89
REAR AXLE - 267RBI (Continued)

(19) Push and hold differential case toward pinion
gear (Fig. 17).
(20) Zero dial indicator face to pointer (Fig. 17).
(21) Push and hold differential case to ring gear
side of the housing and record dial indicator reading
(Fig. 18).(22) This is the thickness shim required on the
ring gear side of the differential case to achieve
proper backlash.
(23) Subtract the backlash shim thickness from
the total preload shim thickness. The remainder is
the shim thickness required on the pinion side of the
housing.
(24) Rotate dial indicator out of the way on pilot
stud.
(25) Remove differential case and dummy bearings
from the housing.
(26) Install side bearing shims on differential case
hubs.
(27) Install side bearings and cups on differential
case.
(28) Install spreader W-129-B on the housing and
spread housing enough to install differential case.
CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.50 mm (0.020 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(29) Install differential case in the housing.
(30) Remove spreader from the housing.
(31) Rotate the differential case several times to
seat the side bearings.
(32) Position the indicator plunger against a ring
gear tooth (Fig. 19).
Fig. 17 PINION GEAR SIDE
1 - DIAL INDICATOR FACE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE TO PINION GEAR SIDE
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
Fig. 18 RING GEAR SIDE
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE TO RING GEAR SIDE
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
Fig. 19 RING GEAR BACKLASH
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 117
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

(33) Push and hold ring gear upward while not
allowing the pinion gear to rotate.
(34) Zero dial indicator face to pointer.
(35) Push and hold ring gear downward while not
allowing the pinion gear to rotate. Dial indicator
reading should be between 0.12 mm (0.005 in.) and
0.20 mm (0.008 in.). If backlash is not within specifi-
cations transfer the necessary amount of shim thick-
ness from one side of the axle housing to the other
(Fig. 20).
(36) Verify differential case and ring gear runout
by measuring ring to pinion gear backlash at several
locations around the ring gear. Readings should not
vary more than 0.05 mm (0.002 in.). If readings vary
more than specified, the ring gear or the differential
case is defective.
After the proper backlash is achieved, perform
Gear Contact Pattern Analysis procedure.GEAR CONTACT PATTERN ANALYSIS
The ring gear and pinion teeth contact patterns
will show if the pinion depth is correct in the axle
housing. It will also show if the ring gear backlash
has been adjusted correctly. The backlash can be
adjusted within specifications to achieve desired
tooth contact patterns.
(1) Apply a thin coat of hydrated ferric oxide, or
equivalent, to the drive and coast side of the ring
gear teeth.
(2) Wrap, twist, and hold a shop towel around the
pinion yoke to increase the turning resistance of the
pinion. This will provide a more distinct contact pat-
tern.
(3) Using a boxed end wrench on a ring gear bolt,
Rotate the differential case one complete revolution
in both directions while a load is being applied from
shop towel.
The areas on the ring gear teeth with the greatest
degree of contact against the pinion teeth will squee-
gee the compound to the areas with the least amount
of contact. Note and compare patterns on the ring
gear teeth to Gear Tooth Contact Patterns chart (Fig.
21)and adjust pinion depth and gear backlash as nec-
essary.
Fig. 20 BACKLASH SHIM ADJUSTMENT
3 - 118 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove caliper brake hose bolt, washers and
hose (Fig. 8).
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts.
(5) Tilt the top of the caliper up and remove it
from the adapter.
(6) Remove anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Upper and lower anti-rattle springs are not
interchangeable.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Drain the brake fluid from caliper.
(2) C-clamp a block of wood over one piston (Fig.
9).
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 10).
(4) To remove the caliper piston directshort
bursts of low pressure airwith a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
Fig. 6 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
Fig. 7 REAR CALIPER
1 - Banjo Bolt
2 - Caliper Pin Bolts
Fig. 8 Caliper
1 - WASHERS
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - HOSE BOLT
Fig. 9 C-Clamp One Piston
1 - BLOCK OF WOOD
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - CALIPER
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same pro-
cedure withshort bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 11).
(9) Remove piston seals from caliper (Fig. 12).
CAUTION: Do not scratch piston bore while remov-
ing the seals.
(10) Push caliper mounting bolt bushings out of
the boot seals and remove the boot seals from the
caliper (Fig. 13).
(11) Remove caliper bleed screw.
CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
Fig. 10 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
Fig. 11 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
Fig. 12 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
The brake booster is operated by a suspended type
brake pedal. The pedal pivots on a shaft located in a
mounting bracket attached to the dash panel. The
pedal shaft is supported by bushings in the pedal
and mounting bracket. The brake pedal is attached
to the booster push rod.
OPERATION
When the pedal is depressed, the primary booster
push rod is depressed which move the booster sec-
ondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove brake lamp switch, (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE
LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove switches from tabs on brake lamp
switch bracket.
(4) Remove brake lamp switch bracket bolts and
remove bracket (Fig. 25).
(5) Remove clip and washer attaching booster push
rod and slide push rod off pedal.
(6) Remove E-clip from passenger side of pedal
shaft (Fig. 26). Use flat blade screwdriver to pry clip
out of shaft groove.
(7) Push shaft toward driver side of bracket just
enough to expose opposite E-clip. Then remove E-clip
with flat blade screwdriver.(8) Push pedal shaft back and out of passenger
side of bracket (Fig. 26).
(9) Remove pedal shaft, brake pedal, wave washer
and bushings from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Replace bracket and pedal bushings if neces-
sary. Lubricate shaft bores in bracket and pedal
before installing bushings with Mopar Multi-mileage
silicone grease.
(2) Apply liberal quantity of Mopar multi-mileage
grease to pedal shaft and to pedal and bracket bush-
ings.
(3) Position brake pedal in mounting bracket.
(4) Slide pedal shaft into bracket and through
pedal from passenger side.
(5) Push pedal shaft out driver side of mounting
bracket just enough to allow installation of retaining
E-clip.
(6) Install the wave washer between the bracket
and the pedal bushing on the passenger side.
(7) Push pedal shaft back toward passenger side of
bracket and install remaining E-clip on pedal shaft.
(8) Install booster push rod on brake pedal. Secure
push rod to pedal with washer and retaining clip.
(9) Install brake lamp switch bracket and switch,
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
Fig. 25 Brake Lamp Switch Bracket
1 - PEDAL BRACKET
2 - BRAKELIGHT SWITCH BRACKET
3 - BRACKET SCREWS (2)
Fig. 26 Brake Pedal Mounting (With Automatic
Transmission)
1 - PEDAL SHAFT
2 - SHAFT RETAINING E-CLIPS (2)
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - PEDAL BUSHING (2)
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17

(6) If pressure plate will be reused, loosen cover
bolts evenly only few threads at a time in a diagonal
pattern (Fig. 6). This relieves cover spring tension
evenly to avoid warping.
(7) Remove bolts completely and remove plate, disc
and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Insert clutch alignment tool in pressure plate
and clutch disc.
(3) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion plate and disc on flywheel (Fig. 7).
NOTE: Raised side of disc hub faces away from the
flywheel.
(4) Iinstall cover bolts finger tight.
(5) Tighten cover bolts evenly and a few threads at
a time.
CAUTION: Cover bolts must be tightened evenly to
avoid distorting cover.
(6) Tighten clutch cover bolts to:
²5/16 in. diameter bolts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
²3/8 in. diameter bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).(7) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Mopar high temperature bear-
ing grease or equivalent to bore of release bearing,
release lever contact surfaces and release lever pivot
stud (Fig. 8).
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease or equivalent to splines of transmis-
sion input shaft (or drive gear) and to release bearing
slide surface of the transmission front bearing
retainer (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This
can result in grease contamination of disc.
(9) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing. Be sure spring clips that retain fork on
pivot ball and release bearing on fork are secure (Fig.
10). Also verify that the release lever is installed
properly.
NOTE: Release lever is installed correctly, when
lever part number is toward the bottom of the trans-
mission. Also a stamped ªIº in the lever goes
towards the pivot ball side of the transmission.
(10) Install transmission. Refer to 21 Transmission
and Transfer Case for procedures.
(11) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
Fig. 6 Bolt Loosening/Tightening Pattern
Fig. 7 Pressure Plate And Disc Alignment
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC
3 - CLUTCH DISC ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 8 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)

(3) Replace one of the flywheel bolts with an
appropriate size threaded rod that is 10 in. (25.4 cm)
long (Fig. 11). The rod will be used to mount the dial
indicator.
(4) Remove release fork from the clutch housing.
(5) Install clutch housing. Tighten the housing
bolts nearest the alignment dowels first.
(6) Mount dial indicator on the threaded rod and
position indicator plunger on the clutch housing bore
(Fig. 12).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the topof the housing bore. Zero the indicator at this
point.(8) Rotate crankshaft and record indicator read-
ings at eight points (45É apart) around the bore (Fig.
13). Take measurement at least twice for accuracy.
(9) Subtract each reading from the one 180É oppo-
site to determine runout and direction. Bore runout
example (Fig. 13):
²0.000 ± (±0.007) = 0.007 in.
²+0.002 ± (±0.010) = 0.012 in.
²+0.004 ± (±0.005) = 0.009 in.
²±0.001 ± (+0.001) = ±0.002 in.
In this example the largest or total indicator read-
ing (TIR) difference is 0.012 inch. This means the
housing bore is offset from the crankshaft centerline
by 0.006 in. which is 1/2 of 0.012 inch. The dowels
needed to correct this have an offset of 0.007 in. (Fig.
14).
Remove housing and install dowels with the slotted
side facing out so they can be turned with a screw-
driver. Then install the housing and mount the dial
indicator and check bore runout again. Rotate the
dowels until the TIR is less than 0.010 inch.
Clutch Housing Face Runout
(1) Position dial indicator towards the housing face
(Fig. 15) with indicator plunger on the rim of the
housing bore.
(2) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the 10 O'clock position and zero the dial indicator.
(3) Measure and record face runout readings at
four points 90É apart (Fig. 16). Take measurement at
least twice for accuracy.
(4) Subtract lowest reading from highest to deter-
mine total runout. If low reading wasminus0.004
in. and highest reading wasplus0.009 in. the total
runout is 0.013 inch.
NOTE: Maximum acceptable face runout is 0.010
inch.
Fig. 11 Dial Indicator Mounting Stud Or Rod
1 - 7/16 - 20 THREAD
2 - NUT
3 - STUD OR THREADED ROD
4 - 10 INCHES LONG
Fig. 12 CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT
1 - MOUNTING STUD OR ROD
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - INDICATOR PLUNGER
4 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE
Fig. 13 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE CIRCLE
6 - 10 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(2) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
21) and verify fork and bearing are secured by spring
clips. Also be sure that the release fork is installed
properly.
NOTE: The rear side of the release lever has one
end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(3) Install clutch housing, if removed.(4) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case for procedures.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
Fig. 20 Clutch Release Components
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING
Fig. 21 Clutch Release Fork
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 13
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2) Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press
plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission, transfer case, if
equipped and clutch housing. Refer to 21 Transmis-
sion and Transfer Case for procedures.
(2) Remove pressure plate and disc.
(3) Using a suitable blind hole puller to remove
pilot bearing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 22). Keep bearing straight and tap bearing into
place until flush with edge of bearing bore. Do not
recess bearing.
(3) Install clutch cover and disc.
(4) Install clutch housing, transmission and trans-
fer case, if equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and
Transfer Case for procedures.
Fig. 22 Installing Pilot Bearing
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
6 - 14 CLUTCHBR/BE
FLYWHEEL (Continued)