Battery FIAT 500 1968 1.G User Guide

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement

4
53 2 1
7
6
FIG 11 :6 Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
Key to Fig 11:6 1 Voltage regulator adjusting spring
2 Current regulator adjusting spring 3 Cutout adjusting
spring 4 Voltage regulator adjustment arm 5 Current
regulator adjustment arm 6 Cutout adjustment blade spring
7 Soldering of cutout shunt and series winding
FIG 11:7 Wiring diagram for checking the cutout
closing voltage
Key to Fig 1 1 : 7 GR Regulator GN 1.12.16 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.12.1 6.3 S V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) L 12 V, 3 to 5 W bulb
FIG 11:8 Wiring diagram for checking the reverse
current of cutout
Key to Fig 11:8 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.1 2.1 6.3 S B Battery, 50 Ah, fully charged
A Ammeter, asymmetrical scale 10-0-15 A V Voltmeter,
20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
116spring 13. Should any defect be found then the pinion
assembly must be renewed as one complete unit. After
examining to ensure that there are no defects thoroughly
clean using petrol.
Reassembling and refitting the starter:
In both cases this is a simple reversal of the dismantling
procedure. Grease t h e drive splines and the engagement
lever groove in the sleeve.
11:5 The control box:
Description:
The generator regulator fitted to the new 500 model
consists of three separate
units; voltage regulator,
current regulator, cut-out relay (see FIG 11 :6).
The voltage regulator and current regulator relays
comprise a U-shaped body one of whose arms is bent
to form a flange, whilst the other adjustment arm pro-
vides a stop for the hinge spring. The U-shaped body is
secured to the frame by the core threaded shank and
carries, on the flanged end, an armature supported by a
hinge spring which comprises a steel leaf and bi-metal
leaf overimposed in the current regulator and bi-metal
leaf in the voltage regulator. The armature carries the
movable contact.
Fixed contacts of both voltage and current regulators
are mounted on t w o blade springs which are secured to a
single bracket rivetted to the U-shaped adjustment arm.
The design of the t w o fixed contacts carrier blade springs
is such as to permit the adjustment of the contact
position by suitably bending the blade springs. The cut-
out is similar in design to the other two relays as shown
in FIG 11:6. Again the hinge spring is bi-metallic as in
the voltage regulator.
All the armatures are provided w i t h blade springs, so
that the tension may be adjusted to the required setting
value. This adjustment is obtained by bending the
adjustment arms.
The voltage regulator coil comprises a fine wire wind-
ing w i t h a great number of turns, shunt connected to the
generator.
The cut-out coil comprises a fine wire winding with a
great number of turns shunt connected to the generator,
and of a winding comprising a few turns of heavy gauge
wire, which is connected in series w i t h the generator
charge circuit (cut-out series winding).
The current regulator coil comprises a few turns of
heavy gauge wire which is series connected with the
generator charge circuit.
The generator regulator base has three terminals to
which the various cables are connected.
No. 51 — connection to generator positive terminal.
No. 67 — connection to generator field winding.
No. 30 — connection to electrical accessories.
The regulator cover is secured to the base w i t h a
rubber gasket placed in between which seals the unit
against the ingress of moisture or dust.
A regulation resistor is fitted under the base and is
secured to the voltage regulator and current regulator
relay core threaded shanks.

Checking cut-out:
1 Closing voltage:
This test should be carried out at a temperature of
25°±10°C and the regulator should be connected to a
generator test bed as shown in FIG 11:7. The unit should
be operated under no load conditions for between 15 -
18 minutes with the cover installed and w i t h a voltage of
between 16.5 volts for an initial operating temperature of
15-20°C or 15 volts for an initial operating temperature
of 20-35°C. This will enable thermal stabilization of the
unit to be obtained so that the temperature of both the
cut-out shunt windings and the bymetallic springs
increase due to the heat developed by the windings and
reaches the normal operating setting.
Once thermal stabilization has been obtained the
generator should be restarted and the speed gradually
increased so that immediately the test lamp starts to
glow the voltmeter reading may be taken. This will be
the value of the cut-out contact closing voltage.
2 Reverse current:
This check should be carried out at a temperature range
of between 25°±10°C and it is recommended that it is
performed as soon as possible after the closing voltage
test so that the thermal stabilization remains unaltered.
Connect the regulator as shown in FIG 11:8 and
gradually speed up the generator to 4500 rev/min for
approximately 5 minutes. Ensure that the voltmeter reads
at least 14.5 volts and then gradually reduce the generator
speed carefully watching the movement of the ammeter
needle which should at first indicate a charging current
and then gradually move to zero and then to the other side
of the scale to indicate reverse current value. If the
generator speed is reduced further the reverse current
reading will increase to a given value and then suddenly
fall to zero which will indicate that the cut-out contact
has opened. This limit indicates the maximum reverse
current value which should not, under any circumstances,
exceed 16 amps.
During this test, to obtain the maximum reverse
current possible the reduction in generator speed must
not take more than 10 seconds otherwise the battery
voltage will drop excessively.
Checking voltage regulator:
This test should be carried out w i t h the regulator under
half load and at a temperature of 50°± 3°C. Connect the
regulator as shown in FIG 11:9 and operate the regulator
for approximately 30 minutes by supplying a current half
that of regulated current which is 1 6 ±5 amp. Once the
regulator has been brought to the required temperature
stop the generator and start it again, gradually increasing
the speed to a maximum of 4500 rev/min. Adjust the
rheostat for a generator output corresponding to half load
current of 8 ± 2 amps. When this generator output has
been set the voltage should be 14.2± .3 volts.
Checking current regulator:
Leave the regulator connected as shown in
FIG 11 :10
and this test must be carried out immediately after testing
the half load regulated voltage of the voltage regulator
when connected to a battery. Check that the ammeter
fitted will accommodate a 40 amp deflection: if not a
F500117
FIG 11 :9 Wiring diagram for checking the current and
voltage regulators
Key to Fig 11:9 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
A Ammeter, 20 A scale (to check voltage regulator) and 40 A
scale (to check current regulator)
B Battery, 50 Ah, fully chargedR Rheostat, 25 A. 3
FIG 11 :10 Wiring diagram for setting the cut-out relay
Key to Fig 11 :10 B 2 V battery B 20 V batteryA Ammeter, 20 A scale ( 1 % accuracy) V Voltmeter, 20 V
scale (0.5% accuracy), directly connected to terminals 31—51
P Potentiometer for voltage adjustment, having such a capacity
that the current draw of the cut-out shunt winding does not
cause sensible variations in the voltage readings (voltmeter
under no load) S Test lamp, with 2 V, 3 W bulb, to signal
opening and closing of contacts R Rheostat, 4 12
AR Voltage drop resistor, suitable to allow turning on of A withT open and cut-out contacts open
Setting of instruments before inserting the unit: P At
minimum (voltmeter reads zero) T Open R All inserted
(max. resistance) T Open
FIG 11:11 Wiring diagram for setting the voltage and
current regulators
Key to Fig 11 :11 GR Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
G Generator D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) A Ammeter, 20 Amp. scale (for voltage regulator),
or 40 Amp. scale (for current regulator) R Rheostat, 25
Amps., 3 Ohms B 50 Amp/h battery, fully charged I Switch

Checking cut-out:
1 Closing voltage:
This test should be carried out at a temperature of
25°±10°C and the regulator should be connected to a
generator test bed as shown in FIG 11:7. The unit should
be operated under no load conditions for between 15 -
18 minutes with the cover installed and w i t h a voltage of
between 16.5 volts for an initial operating temperature of
15-20°C or 15 volts for an initial operating temperature
of 20-35°C. This will enable thermal stabilization of the
unit to be obtained so that the temperature of both the
cut-out shunt windings and the bymetallic springs
increase due to the heat developed by the windings and
reaches the normal operating setting.
Once thermal stabilization has been obtained the
generator should be restarted and the speed gradually
increased so that immediately the test lamp starts to
glow the voltmeter reading may be taken. This will be
the value of the cut-out contact closing voltage.
2 Reverse current:
This check should be carried out at a temperature range
of between 25°±10°C and it is recommended that it is
performed as soon as possible after the closing voltage
test so that the thermal stabilization remains unaltered.
Connect the regulator as shown in FIG 11:8 and
gradually speed up the generator to 4500 rev/min for
approximately 5 minutes. Ensure that the voltmeter reads
at least 14.5 volts and then gradually reduce the generator
speed carefully watching the movement of the ammeter
needle which should at first indicate a charging current
and then gradually move to zero and then to the other side
of the scale to indicate reverse current value. If the
generator speed is reduced further the reverse current
reading will increase to a given value and then suddenly
fall to zero which will indicate that the cut-out contact
has opened. This limit indicates the maximum reverse
current value which should not, under any circumstances,
exceed 16 amps.
During this test, to obtain the maximum reverse
current possible the reduction in generator speed must
not take more than 10 seconds otherwise the battery
voltage will drop excessively.
Checking voltage regulator:
This test should be carried out w i t h the regulator under
half load and at a temperature of 50°± 3°C. Connect the
regulator as shown in FIG 11:9 and operate the regulator
for approximately 30 minutes by supplying a current half
that of regulated current which is 1 6 ±5 amp. Once the
regulator has been brought to the required temperature
stop the generator and start it again, gradually increasing
the speed to a maximum of 4500 rev/min. Adjust the
rheostat for a generator output corresponding to half load
current of 8 ± 2 amps. When this generator output has
been set the voltage should be 14.2± .3 volts.
Checking current regulator:
Leave the regulator connected as shown in
FIG 11 :10
and this test must be carried out immediately after testing
the half load regulated voltage of the voltage regulator
when connected to a battery. Check that the ammeter
fitted will accommodate a 40 amp deflection: if not a
F500117
FIG 11 :9 Wiring diagram for checking the current and
voltage regulators
Key to Fig 11:9 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
A Ammeter, 20 A scale (to check voltage regulator) and 40 A
scale (to check current regulator)
B Battery, 50 Ah, fully chargedR Rheostat, 25 A. 3
FIG 11 :10 Wiring diagram for setting the cut-out relay
Key to Fig 11 :10 B 2 V battery B 20 V batteryA Ammeter, 20 A scale ( 1 % accuracy) V Voltmeter, 20 V
scale (0.5% accuracy), directly connected to terminals 31—51
P Potentiometer for voltage adjustment, having such a capacity
that the current draw of the cut-out shunt winding does not
cause sensible variations in the voltage readings (voltmeter
under no load) S Test lamp, with 2 V, 3 W bulb, to signal
opening and closing of contacts R Rheostat, 4 12
AR Voltage drop resistor, suitable to allow turning on of A withT open and cut-out contacts open
Setting of instruments before inserting the unit: P At
minimum (voltmeter reads zero) T Open R All inserted
(max. resistance) T Open
FIG 11:11 Wiring diagram for setting the voltage and
current regulators
Key to Fig 11 :11 GR Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
G Generator D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) A Ammeter, 20 Amp. scale (for voltage regulator),
or 40 Amp. scale (for current regulator) R Rheostat, 25
Amps., 3 Ohms B 50 Amp/h battery, fully charged I Switch

FIG 11:12 Wiring diagram for setting the cutout relay
Key to Fig 11 :12 B 2 V battery B 20 V battery
A Ammeter, 15 A scale ( 1 % accuracy) V Voltmeter, 20 V
scale (0.5% accuracy), directly connected to terminals 31-51
P Potentiometer for voltage adjustment, having such a capacity
that the current draw of the cutout shunt winding does not cause
sensible variations in the voltage readings (voltmeter under no
load) S Test lamp, with 2 V, 3 W bulb, to signal opening
and closing of contacts R Rheostat, 4 , 1 2 A R Voltagedrop rheostat, suitable to allow turning on of S with T open and
cutout contacts open
Setting of instruments before inserting the unit: P At
minimum (Voltmeter reads zero) T Open R All inserted
(max. resistance) T Open
1
2
3
4
5
6
FIG 11:13 Location of electrical system fuses
Key to Fig 11 :13 1 Fuse N o . 30.2 2 Fuse N o . 30.3
3 Fuse N o . 56.b1 4 Fuse N o . 56.b2 5 Fuse N o . 15.54
6 Fuse N o . 30
meter w i t h a fuller scale deflection of 40 amp must be
substituted. Adjust the rheostat to give maximum
resistance and operate the regulator for approximately
30 minutes with regulator controlled current and 13 volt
supply. The resistor R of the rheostat should be adjusted
until the current is steady whilst the voltage drops. This
will indicate that the unit has reached normal operating
temperature. Stop the generator, restart it and speed up
gradually to 4500 rev/min. Check that the regulated
current value corresponds to the specified value of
1 6± .5 amps. By continually reducing the resistance the
current should remain constant. The voltage however
should decrease to as l o w as 12 volts.
118
Cut-out relay adjustment:
Ascertain the type of regulator fitted and then wire to
the test unit as shown in FIG 11:10 or FIG 11 :12.
Before the unit is assembled to the test bed the instru-
ments should be set as follows:
P - at minimum so that voltmeter reads zero.
T — open.
R - all inserted giving maximum resistance.
T - open.
1 Contact closing voltage:
This test should be carried out at an ambient tempera-
ture of 25°±10°C. Close the switch T and stabilize the
regulator thermally by feeding current into it for approxi-
mately 15 to 18 minutes at 16.5 volts which is obtained
by adjusting P for initial regulator operating temperatures
of between 15°-20°C or at 15 volts for initial operating
temperatures of 20°-35°C. Once the stabilizing of the
regulator has been completed bring the voltage to 12 6±
.2 volts by adjusting P. Adjust the load on the setting
spring by bending the relevant arm until the pilot light S
is extinguished. Reset P to m inimum and again increase
the voltage by P and check that the pilot lamp is extin-
guished at the specified voltage.
2 Reverse current:
This test must be carried out at a temperature of
25°± 10°C and it is recommended that it is carried out as
soon as possible after the closing voltage test so as to
maintain minimum regulator thermal stability. With the
switch T closed bring the voltage to 14.5 volts by
operating P. The contacts of the cut-out should be closed
and the pilot lamp S off. Close T and increase the reverse
current by means of the rheostat R and check that the
pilot lamp S glows as the contacts part. The opening may
also be unsteady which will be indicated by a slight
buzz from the unit. Check the value of the ammeter of the
reverse current causing the opening of the contacts and
this should not exceed 16 amps. If the reading is unstable
or S lights up at the recommended limit reset the reverse
current to the minimum value and repeat the test once
more. Finally open the switches T and T and again
adjust rheostat R and P to the minimum settings.
Voltage regulator adjustment:
This test should be carried out at a temperature of
5 0 ° ±3 ° C . Connect the unit as shown in FIG 11 :11 and
load the voltage regulator adjusting springs by bending
the relevant arm. With the unit at the required test
temperature close 1 start the generator and stabilize
the regulator thermally by feeding a current for 30
minutes at 15 volts, which is obtained by adjusting the
generator speed. The generator should then be stopped,
I opened and the generator restarted and gradually
speeded up to 4500 rev/min. The voltage regulator
spring load adjustment should be set by suitably bending
the relevant adjusting arm and by rheostat R so as to have
a voltage of 14.2±.3 volts and a half load current of
8 ± 2 amps. Finally check the steadiness and accuracy
of the voltage regulator setting by stopping the generator
and restarting after approximately 2 minutes and gradually
speeding up to 4500 rev/min.

WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR ASSY
WIPER MOTOR SCREWS
WIPER MOTOR BRACKET
FIG 11:15 Arrangement of windshield wiper unit on
vehicle
B M INT F
SC12 V
31
D
A
SWITCH PARKING
0 ON
SWITCH LEVER POSITIONS
FIG 11:16 Windshield wiper wiring diagram
Key to Fig 11 :16 A Series winding B Shunt winding
D Switch M Motor S Additional winding F INT
C =Terminals
120signal lamp pairs. The flasher unit connections are in
FIG 11:14 and the unit is of the hot wire type.
Faulty operation of flashers:
In cases of trouble check the bulb for broken filaments.
Refer to the wiring diagrams in Technical Data and check
all flasher circuit cables and connections. Check the
appropriate fuse. Switch on the ignition and check w i t h
a voltmeter between flasher unit positive terminal and
earth to see if battery voltage is present. Connect together
flasher unit positive terminal and L and operate the
direction indicator switch. If the flasher lamps now light,
the flasher unit is defective and must be renewed. It is not
possible to dismantle and repair a faulty flasher unit.
Before removing make a note of the connections so that
they will be replaced correctly when the new unit is being
installed.
Before making the connections it is advisable to check
the circuits to ensure that the new flasher unit is not
damaged by wrong connection. Test by joining the
cables normally connected to the unit and operate the
switch. If the connections are wrong the appropriate
fuse will blow but no damage will be done to the flasher
unit.
Never insert terminal L directly to earth without having
first connected in series the bulbs specified, otherwise
the flasher unit will be damaged. For the same reason
terminal L must never be shorted to ground nor must there
by any short circuits in any of the leads from the L
terminal to the bulbs. The flasher unit must never receive
blows of any kind since it is a very delicate component
and easily damaged.
11:8 Windscreen wipers
Description:
The windscreen wiper assembly comprises a motor
unit that drives t w o wiper blades through a reduction
gearing and mechanical linkage. The reduction gear
includes a worm screw on the motor armature shaft and a
helical pinion. The motor, left blade pivot and linkages
are mounted on a sheet metal bracket, whilst the right
blade pivot is connected to the main drive link. When
assembled to the vehicle the right blade pivot is fixed
directly onto the body. The unit is provided w i t h an
automatic parking device which ensures that the blades
return to their correct park position. The w
indscreen wiper
is- controlled by a lever switch with three separate
positions on earlier models or a simple on-off switch on
later models.
Maintenance:
Maintenance is confined to the changing of the wiper
blades when they have deteriorated and occasional
lubricating of the mechanical linkage.
Wiper unit faulty operation :
1 It is important that the wiper unit assembly is correctly
fitted to the body otherwise distortion of the wiper
mounting bracket can occur which will cause
abnormal stresses on the pivot and linkages resulting
in irregular and difficult blade sweep.
2 If the blades keep on sweeping at a reduced speed
although the switch lever has been pressed to the

FIG 11:18 Replacement of bulb from inside f r o n tcompartment
Key to Fig 11 :18 1 Double-filament bulb 2 Bulbholder
3 Side direction indicator light 4 Bulbholder shield
PARKING LAMP
LENS
SIDE DIRECTIONINDICATOR
FIG 11 :19 Disassembling front parking and direction
indicator lamp
Replacement of the bulb is achieved from inside the front
compartment by pulling down the upper lug of the
rubber protection cap at the rear of t h e headlight unit and
freeing the bulb holder. Pull up the bulb holder to
reflector fastener spring and pull out the bulb holder
complete and replace the bulb as necessary.
Beam setting:
Accurate setting is best left to a service station
equipped with the necessary equipment. The main beams
must be set parallel to the road surface or in accordance
with local regulations. Adjustment is made by turning
the top screw 1 as indicated in FIG 11:17 for the
vertical setting and the lower screw 2 for the horizontal
setting.
122
FIG 11 : 20 Disassembling tail parking, stop, direction
indicator lamp and reflector lens REFLECTOR LENS PARKING A N D
STOP LAMP INDICATOR LAMP
DIRECTION
LENSLENS
SCREWS
Lamps light when switched on but gradually fade:
Check the battery as it is incapable of supplying
current for any length of time. Front parking and direction indicator lamp:
To replace the double filament bulb, release the screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 :19 and remove the bulb from its bayonet holder. Where
the parking lamp is in the headlamp unit the bulbholder
can be pulled out inside the front compartment.
Rear parking, direction indicator, stop lamps and
reflector lens:
To renew any of the t w o bulbs remove the t w o screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 : 2 0. Bulbs are fixed by bayonet couplings.
Side direction indicator lamps:
To replace the 2.5W bulb slide off the bulb holder
from the rubber socket located as shown in FIG 11 :19.
The bulb is secured by a bayonet coupling.
Number plate lamp:
To replace the bayonet coupled 5W bulb remove the
lens and light cap mounting screws as shown in FIG
11:21.
Lamps give insufficient light:
Test the state of charge of the battery and recharge if it
is necessary from an independent supply. Check the
setting of the lamps. If the bulbs have darkened through
age fit new ones.
Lamps burn out frequently:
If this is accompanied by a need for frequent topping-
up of the battery and high hydrometer readings, check
the charging rate with an ammeter when the car is
running. This should be around 3 to 4 amps. A reading in
excess of this calls for adjustment of the regulator.

Lamp brilliance varies w i t h the speed of t h e car:
Check the condition of the battery. Examine the battery
connections. Make sure they are tight and renew faulty
cables.
11:10 Panel and warning lights:
All the gauges are clustered in a single instrument
mounted on the dashboard above the steering column.
Incorporated in this cluster is the parking light pilot light,
generator charge indicator, fuel reserve supply indicator,
low oil pressure indicator, and the speedometer w i t h
mileage recorder.
The parking lamp indicator glows green when the
ignition lock switch key is in either position 1 or 2 once
the toggle switch on the instrument panel has been
operated.
The generator charge indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on. It should be extinguished when
the generator output is sufficient for battery charge
(12.6 ± 0.2 volts) with the engine running at a speed
of 1100 rev/min and the headlights switched off.
The fuel reserve supply indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on and the amount of fuel in the
petrol tank has dropped to approximately .8 to 1.1
Imp. gallons.
The low oil pressure indicator shows red only when the
ignition is turned on and should be extinguished when
the oil pressure reaches 7.1 to 21.3 Ib/sq in, and opens
the sending unit contacts. Once the engine is at normal
operating temperature but at a speed below 1000 rev/
min the indicator might light up even the pressure is under
control and with normal operation.
All the bulbs fitted to the above described units are of
the tubular 2.5W type and to renew a bulb extract the
bulb holder from the rear of t h e instrument cluster and
release the bulb which is attached by a normal bayonet
coupling.
Fuel reserve supply indicator sender u n i t:
The fuel reserve supply indicator should be checked for
correct indication by allowing the fuel tank to empty and
then inserting .8 to 1.1 Imp. gallons at which stage the
light should extinguish. Any failure to do so should be
checked as follows:
1 Ensure that the indicator bulb operates correctly.
2 Check for complete circuit between the sender unit and
the indicator bulb.
3 If the sender unit float bracket is distorted the bulb
will
indicate a reserve supply of fuel greater or smaller than
specified. The bracket should be adjusted to give
correct indication of fuel level.
4 The sender unit could have been inadvertantly
damaged in which case the unit must be renewed.
11 :11 The horn
The horn circuit comprises the horn, push button at the
centre of the steering wheel and normal earth return
electrical circuit through the car body. One terminal is
connected to the battery whilst the other to the push
button on the steering wheel which when the button is
depressed the circuit will be closed so causing the horn
to operate.
F500
FIG 11 : 21 Number plate lamp
Key to Fig 11 : 21 A Lens and light cap mounting screws
B Lens
FIG 11 : 22 Horn (opened)
Key to Fig 11:22 1 Body 2 Diaphragm 3 Armature
4,5,6 Core 7 Cable: terminal-condenser-stationary contact
8 Cable: terminal-magnetizing coil end 9 Magnetizing coil
FIG 11 :23 Horn sound adjustment. Obtained by adjust-
ing the armature air gap
123

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty