Manual transmission FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Owner's Manual

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included In (his Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for tho cylinder head, cylinder block/crankca9e and all other engine internal components. The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine Internal components. After Section 5, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For Information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, 8 or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 5. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A. B or C that are no longer relevant onca the engine has been removed from ihe car.
2 Engine overhaul -general information
1 It Is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of lectors must be considered. 2 High mileage Is not necessarily an Indication that an overhaul Is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing Is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early In its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption Is an Indication that piston rings, vaivo seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn Perform a compression test, as described In Parts A or B (petrol engines) or C (diesel engines) of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted In place of the oil pressure switch. If it Is extremely low. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to Ihe need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring ell Internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are rebored (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; If necessary, the crankshaft may be reground. to restore the journals. 7 The valves are also servrced as well, since they are usually In less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. A/so. it Is a good Idea to renew the ofI pump whenever the engine i$ overhauled.
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through tho entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult If you follow carefully all of the instructions, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially If pans must be taken to an engineering wo'kd for repair or reconditioning.
9 Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand lools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required (or Inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal, Note: Always wait unt'l the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not. fh ere tore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly Inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled wilh care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Engine and transmission removal -methods
and
precautions
1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage Is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface Is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure wilt help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated In excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission, Safety Ib of primary Importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is Ihe first time you have removed
an
engine, an assistant Bhould Ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of Ihe vehicle. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and Installation safely and wilh relative ease On addition to an engine hoist) Is as follows: a heavy duly trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the reference section of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spitted oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it In advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consul! them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work, 9 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
^ - / //
4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.70 Lowering the engine/transmission assembly to Ihe floor
4.79a Withdraw the Intermediate shaft...
Separation 71 Rest Ihe engine and transmission assembly on a firm, flat surface, and use wooden blocks as wedges to keep the unit steady. 72 Note the routing and location of the wiring
4.77 Removing the transmission lower cover
4.79b ... and recover the dust boot
harness on the engine/transmission assembly, Ihen methodically disconnect It. 73 Remove the starter motor (Chapter 5A). Petrol engines 74 Noto the location of the earth loads on the
4.78 Removing the bolts securing the intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block
transmission support bracket on the rear of the cylinder block, then unscrew the securing bolts and move the leads to one side. 75 Unscrew the bolts on the transmission and remove the support bracket. 78 Unscrew tho remaining bolts and remove the transmission lower cover. Diesel engines 77 Unscrew the bolts and remove the transmission lower cover (see Illustration). 78 Unscrew the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on Ihe rear of the cylinder block (see illustration). 79 Withdraw the Intermediate shaft through the bracket and recover the dust boot from tho inner end (see illustrations). 80 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the rpm sensor from the transmission (see illustrations). Manual transmission models 81 Support the transmission with blocks ol wood. 82 Unscrew the transmission-to-engine bolts. Also unscrew Ihe nut securing the transmission to the rear ot the cylinder block (see illustrations). 83 Lift the transmission complete with driveshafts directly from the roar of Ihe engine, taking care to keep It level so that the transmission input shaft does not hang on the clutch (see illustration), Automatic transmission models 84 Support the transmission with blocks of wood.
4.83 Separating the engine from tho transmission (petrol engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).

Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
bolt (Bosch)
4 Fuel system -priming and bleeding
The Injection pump Is self-priming and no special procedures are necessary to prime the fuel system. However where the luei system has been completely drained it (s helpful to loosen the injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor In order to purge trooped air.
S Fuel injection pump • removal and refitting 5
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual) 2 Remove the timing belt and Injection pump sprocket aa described in Chapter 2C. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the fuel injection pump, with reference to Section 3. 4 Loosen the clip, or undo the banjo union, and disconnect the fuel supply hose. Recover the sealing washers from the banjo union, where applicable. Cover the open end of the hose, and raflt and cover the banjo bolt to keep dirt out. 5 Disconnect the main fuel return pipe and the injector leak-off return pipe banjo union. Recover the sealing washers from the banjo union Again, cover the open end of the hose and the banjo bolt to keep dirt out.
6.2a Remove the rubber bung ...
k
5.10a Injection pump lower mounting bolt removal (Bosch) 6 Disconnect all relevant wiring from the pump. 7 Unscrew the union nuts securing the Injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump and injectors. Counterhold the unions on Ihe pump, while unscrewing the pipe-to-pump union nuts. Remove the pipes as a set. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out. using small plastic begs, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 8 Mark the fuel Injection pump in relation to the mounting bracket, using a scriber or felt tip pen. This will ensure Ihe correct pump timing is retained when refitting. 9 Unscrew the bolt(s) from Ihe rear support bracket (see illustration) 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts/bolt, remove the special bracket, then remove the injection pump from the mounting bracket/housing (see illustrations).
Refitting 11 Locate the injection pump In the mounting bracket and align the marks mode on the pump and bracket before removal. If a new pump is being fitted, transfer the mark from the old pump to give an approximate setting. Locate the special bracket and fit the nuts/bolt loosely. 12 Refil Ihe rear support bracket and fit the bolts loosely. 13 Set up the injection timing, as described In Sections 7 and 8 (as applicable). 14 Refil and reconnect the injector fuel pipes. 15 Reconnect all relevant wiring to the pump. 16 Reconnect the fuel supply and return hoses, and tighten the unions, as applicable.
6.2b ... when checking the injection pump timing dynamically. Timing marks shown on flywheel and transmission casing
5.10b Removing the special Injection pump mounting brackot (Bosch)
5.10c Removing tho injection pump (Bosch) Use new sealing washers on the banjo unions. 17 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator . cable with reference to Section 3. i 16 Refit the Injection pump sprocket end timing belt as described in Chapter 2C. I 19 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal 20 Start the engine, and check for any ' leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start It may be necessary to loos® the injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to porgt trapped air. 21 Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed as described in Chapter 1B.
6 injection timing -checking methods
1 Checking the injection timing Is not e routlno operation. It Is only necessary aftorth* Injection pump has been disturbed. I 2 Dynamic timing equipment does exist, bulit ' is unlikely to be available to the hame I mechanic. Tho equipment works by I converting pressure pulses in an Injector pips into electrical signals. If such equipment« available, use it In accordance with Its maker's instructions using the liming mark
on
the flywheel (see illustrations). 3 Static timing as described In this Chaptai gives good results If carried out carefully. A dial test indicator will be needed, with probes and adapters appropriate to the typo of infection pump. Read through the procedures beto starting work, to find out what ts Involved.

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
6.4a Starter motor wiring connections (petrol engine)
8 Starter motor -removal and refitting S
Removal t Disconnect the battery negative terminal [refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front
ol
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacking
and Vehicle Support). 3 On petrol engines, unscrew and remove the starter motor mounting bolt located at the top ol the transmission bellhousing. Access is
8.5 Disconnecting the battery cable from the starter motor
8.4b On diesel engines, raise the plastic cover...
gained from behind the battery. 4 Working beneath the vehicle, raise the plastic cover then disconnect the wiring from the solenoid located on top of the starter motor (see illustrations). 5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the positive cable from the solenoid terminal (see illustration). 6 Unscrew the mounting bolts (noting the location of the support bracket on petrol engines), then withdraw the starter motor from the transmission (see illustrations).
Refitting 7 Refit the starter motor by following the removal procedure in reverse.
8.6a Starter motor mounting bolt locations (diesel engine)
8.4c ... and disconnect the solenoid trigger wire
9 Starter motor - ft* testing and overhaul ££
If the starter motor is thought lo be suspect, it should be removed from the vehicle and taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check on the cost of repairs before proceeding as il may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor.
8.6b Removing the starter motor (diesel engine)

5B*1
Chapters PartB:
Ignition system - petrol models
Contents
General information 1 Ignition system - testing 2 Ignriton HT coil - removal, testing and refitting 3 Ignition timing - checking and adjustment 4 Igrrtion system - check See Chapter 1A Spark plugs - renewal See Chapter 1A
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
suitable for Falrty easy, sulabte Fafety difficult, suitable for competent Difficult, suitable for Very difficult, ^ novice with littie
1
for beginner with Fafety difficult, suitable for competent experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY or professional ^ expenence 1 some experience DIY mechanic mechanic *
suitable for expert DIY or professional ^
Specifications
General System type
firing order Ignition timing at Idle speed (non-adjustable, for reference onlyy. 6-valve engines: Single-point injection engine with manual transmission .... Single-point injection engine with automatic transmission.. Multi-point injection engine 16-valve engines
Ignition
coil winding resistance (at 20°C): Primary Secondary
Weber-Marelli static (distributorless), wasted spark Ignition system controlled by engine management ECU
1
-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
10® ± 3° BTDC 6° ± 3° STDC 13° ±3° BTDC 8° x 3° BTDC
0.495 to 0.605 ohms 6660 to 8140 Ohms

6*1
Chapter 6
Clutch
Contents
Clutch - adjustment Clutch assembly - removal, inspection and refitting Clutch cable • removal and refitting Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding
Degrees of difficulty
2 Clutch master cylinder • removal and refitting 5 7 Clutch release mechanism - removal, Inspection and refitting 8 3 Clutch slave cylinder - removal and refitting 6 4 General information 1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little experience oi^

Faidy easy,
suitable for beginner
with
^
some
experience
Fairly difficult, suitable
for
competent ^
DIY
mechanic ^
Difficiit, suitable for ^ experienced DIY JR mechanic ^

V<*y difficult,
jk
suitable
for expert
DIY
« or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Clutch pedal travel (cable-operated mechanism)
Friction plate diameter 8-valve petrol engines 16-valve petrol engines Diesel engines
Torque wrench setting Pressure plate retaining bolts
Single dry plate with diaphragm spring, cable- or hydraullcally-operated according to model 140.0 ± 5.0 mm
181.5 mm 190.0 mm 200.0 mm
Nm Ibf ft 16 12
1 General information
Vehicles with manual transmission are fitted with a pedal operated single dry plate clutch system. When the clutch pedal is depressed, effort is transmitted to the clutch release mechanism either mechanically by means of a cable, or hydraullcally by means of a master
2.5 Clutch cable adjustment
cylinder and slave cylinder. The release mechanism transfers effort to Ihe pressure plate diaphragm spring, which withdraws the pressure plate from the flywheel and releases the driven plate-Where applicable, the hydraulic fluid employed in the clutch system is the same as that used in the braking system, hence fluid is supplied to the master cylinder from a tapping on the brake fluid reservoir. The clutch hydraulic system must be sealed before work Is carried out on any of its components and then on completion, topped up and bled to remove any air bubbles.
2 Clutch - % adjustment §§ ^
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with a cable-operated dutch
release
mechanism. No adjustment is possible on models with the hydrauHcaSy-operated system. 1 The clutch adjustment Is checked by measuring the clutch pedal travel. If a new cable has been fitted, settle it in position by depressing the clutch pedal at least thirty times. 2 Ensure that there are no obstructions
beneath the clutch pedal then measure the distance from the centre of the clutch pedal pad to the base of the steering wheel with the pedal In the at-rest position. Depress the clutch pedal fully to the floor, and measure the distance from the centre of the clutch pedal pad to the bata of the steering wheel. 3 Subtract the first measurement from the second to obtain the clutch pedal travel. If this is not with the range given in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter, adjust the clutch as follows. 4 The clutch cable Is adjusted by means of the adjuster nut on the transmission end of the cable. Access to the nut is from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 5 Working under the left-hand side of the engine compartment, slacken the locknut from the end of the clutch cable. Adjust the position of the adjuster nut. then depress the clutch pedal ten times and re-measure the dutch pedal travel. Repeat this procedure until the clutch pedal travel is as specified (see illustration). 6 Once the adjuster nut Is correctly positioned, and the pedal travel Is correctly set, securely tighten the cable locknut then lower the vehicle to the ground.

6*2 Clutch
3 Clutch cable -removal and refitting
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with a cabfe-opemted dutch
release mechanism.
Removal 1 Remove the battery and tray as described In Chapter SA. If necessary, also remove the Inlet air ducting for Improved access as described In the relevant part of Chapter 4. 2 Unscrew the adjustment locknut and adjuster nut from the end of the cable fitting, (hen release the inner and outer cables from the transmission housing. Note the position of the damper biock. 3 Working Inside the vehicle, unhook the inner cable from the top of the clutch pedaL 4 Returning to the engine compartment, unscrew the nuts securing the outer cable to the bulkhead, then withdraw the cable assembly from the engine compartment. Refitting 5 Apply a smear of multi-purpose grease to the cable end fittings, then pass the cable through the bulkhead. Refit and tighten the nuts. 6 Inside the vehicle hook the inner cable onto the top of the clutch pedal. 7 in the engine compartment, attach the outer cable to the transmission housing and refit the damper block and nuts lo Ihe inner cable end. fi Adjust the cable as described in Section 2. 9 Refit the air ducting and battery with reference to Chapters 4 and 5A
4 Clutch hydraulic system -
i
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with the hydraulicalty-operated clutch release mechanism.

A


Warning: Hydraulic fluid Is poisonous; thoroughly wash off spllfs from bare skin without delay. Seek Immediate medical advice If any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable and may ignite when brought into contact with hot components; when servicing any hydraulic system, It is safest to assume that the fluid IS Inflammable, and to take precautions against the risk of fire as though ft were petrof that was being handled. Hydraulic fluid Is an effective paint stripper and will also attack many plastics. If spillage occurs onto painted bodywork or fittings, ft should be washed off Immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. It Is also hygroscopic - It can absorb moisture from the air, which then renders it useless. Old fluid may have
suffered contamination, and should never be re-used. When topping-up or renewing tho fluid, always use tha recommended grade, and ensure that It comes from a new seated container. General information 1 Whenever the clutch hydraulic lines are disconnected for service or repair, a certain amount of air will enter the system. The presence of air In any hydraulic system will Introduce a degree of elasticity, and in the clutch system this will translate into poor pedal feel and reduced travel, leading to inefficient gear changes and even clutch system failure. For this reason, the hydraulic lines must be sealed using hose clamps before any work la carried out and then on completion, topped up and bled to remove any air bubbles. 2 To seal off Ihe hydraulic supply to tha clutch slave cylinder, fit a proprietary brake hose clamp to the flexible section of the hose located over the transmission and tighten it securely. It will be necessary to remove the battery and battery tray to access the hose. 3 The most effective way of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is to use a pressure brake bleeding kit. These are readily available in motor accessories shops and are extremely effective: the following sub-section describes bleeding the clutch system using such a kit. The alternative method is to bleed the system by depressing tho clutch pedal • refer to Chapter 9. Section 11, for details of this method.
Bleeding 4 Remove the protective cap from Ihe bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Access can be improved by removing the battery and tray with reference to Chapter 5A. 5 Fit a ring spanner over the bleed nipple head, but do not slacken it at this point. Connect a length of dear plastic hose over the nipple and insert the other end into a clean container. Pour hydraulic fluid into the container, such that the end of the hose is covered. 6 Following the manufacturer's instructions, pour hydraulic fluid into the bleeding kit vessel 7 Unscrew the vehicle's fluid reservoir cap, then connect Ihe bleeding kit fluid supply hose to the reservoir. 8 Connect the pressure hose to a supply of compressed air - a spare tyre is a convenient source. Caution: Check that the pressure In the tyre does not exceed the maximum supply pressure quoted by the kit manufacturer, let soma sir escape to reduce the pressure, if necessary. Gently open the air valve and allow the air and fluid pressures to equalise. Check that there ere no teaks before proceeding. 9 Using the spanner, slacken the bleed pipe nipple until fluid and air bubbles can be seen to flow through the tube, into the container.
Maintain a steady flow until the emerging fluid la free of air bubbles; keep a watchful eye on the level of fluid in the bleeding kit vessel and the vehicle's fluid reservoir • if it Is allowed to drop too low, air may be forced into the system, defeating the object of the exercise. To refill the vessel, turn off the compressed air supply, remove the lid and pour In en appropriate quantity of clean fluid from a new container - do not re-use the fluid collected in the receiving container. Repeat as necessary until the ejected fluid is bubble-free. 10 On completion, pump the olutch pedal several times to assess its feel and travel. If firm, constant pedal resistance is not felt throughout the pedal stroke, it i6 probable that air Is still present in the system - repeat the bleeding procedure untii the pedal feel is restored. 11 Depressurise the bleeding kit and remove it from the vehicle. At this point, the fluid reservoir may be over-full; the excess should be removed using a clean pipette to reduce the level to the MAX mark. 12 Tighten the bleed pipe nipple using the spanner and remove the receiving container. Refit the protective cap. 13 On completion, assess the feel of the clutch pedal; if it exhibits any sponginess or looseness, further bleeding may be required. 14 Where removed, refit the battery and tray. 15 Finally, road test the vehicle and check the operation of the clutch system whilst changing up and down through the gsar9. whilst pulling away from a standstill and from a hill start.
5 Clutch master cylinder - & removal
and
refitting 5 S Note: This procedure applies to models
fitted
with the hydraulically-operated dutch
release
mechanism. Note: Refer to the warning at Ihe beginning
of
Section 4 regarding the hazards of
working
with hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer lo Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 For improved access on petrol engine models, remove the alternator as described In Chapter 5A. 4 Fit a brake hose clamp to the hose between the hydraulic fluid reservoir and the clutch master cylinder. Alternatively syphon ail the fluid from the reservoir. 5 Disconnect the fluid supply hose at the master cylinder, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the cylinder outlet. Be prepared for some fluid loss by placing some rags beneath the master cylinder.

7A»1
Chapter 7 Part A:
Manual transmission
Contents
Gearchange lever and linkage - removal and refitting 2 General information 1 Manual transmission oil level check See Chapter 1A or 18 Manual transmission oil renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B
Manual transmission overhaul • general information 4 Manual transmission • removal and refitting 3 Reversing light switch • testing, removal and refitting 5
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable
for Faiity
easy,
suitable FaMycffficult, ^ Difficult,
sutable fa-
Verycfifficutt, ^
novice with
little
1
for beginner with suitable
for
competent experienced DIY * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^ experience 1
some
experience DIYmechanic ^ mechanic * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Designation: 1108 cc petrol engine 1242 cc petrol engine Non-turbo diesel engine Turbo diesel engine
Torque wrench settings Gear lever support nut Gear lever to mounting Reverse gear inhibitor cable to transmission Reversing light switch Selector rod-to-gear lever nut Speedometer drive Transmission-to-engine bolt/nut
Transverse mounted, front wheel drive layout with integral transaxle differential/final drive. 5 or 6 forward speeds, 1 reverse speed
C.S14.5.10 (5-speed) or C.514.6.10 (6-speed) C.514.5.1Q/13 (5-speed) C.514.5.13 (5-speed) C.510.5.17 (5-speed)
Nm Ibftl 6 4 49 36 30 22 40 30 17 13 12 9 es 63
1 Genera) Information
The transmission is contained In a cast-aluminium alloy casing bolted to the engine's left-hand end, and consists of the gearbox end final drive differential, Drive Is transmitted from the crankshaft via the clutch to the Input shaft, which has a spiined extension to accept the clutch friction
plate, and rotates in roller bearings at its right-hand end and ball bearings at its left-hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates In a roller bearing). From the input shaft, drive is transmitted to tho output shaft, which rotates In roller bearings at Its right-hand end. and ball bearings at its left* hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates in ball bearings). From the output shaft, the drive is transmitted to the differential crownwheel, which rotates with the differential case and gears in taper roller bearings, thus driving the sun gears and
driveshafts. The rotation of the differential gears on their shaft allows the inner roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than the outer roadwheel when the car is cornering. The Input and output shaftB are arranged side by side, parallel to the crankshaft and driveshafts, so that their gear pinion teeth are In constant mesh. In the neutral position, the relevant input shaft and output shaft gear pinions rotate freely, so that drive cannot be transmitted to the output shaft and crownwheel.