Timing FIAT PUNTO 1999 176 / 1.G User Guide

Every 20 000 miles - diesel models ib.h
18
Valve clearance check and
adjustment
1 The Importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be Distressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear nas become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be ttcurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right-hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front roadwfteei. 3 Remove ail four glove plugs as described In Chapter 5C. 4 Remove the air cleaner cover and air duct
then
remove the camshaft cover as described
in
Chapter 2C. 6 Each valve clearance must be checked wnen the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances in the firing order 1-3-4-2, No 1 cylinder being at the timing belt end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between
the heel
of the cam and the cam follower shim of the First valve (see Illustration). If necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the
vafve
clearance tor Ihis particular valve. 8 Turn the engine, check the second valve devance and record it. t Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves. recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs - see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the
engine,
the valve sequence is: Wef 2-4-5-7 Etfiat/sf 7-3-6-8
11 Where clearances are incorrect the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to bo depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job. otherwise you will have to make up a forked lever to locate on the rim of ihe cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim (see illustration). 12 Once Ihe shim is extracted, establish Its thickness and change it for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded clear-ance within specification, For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on ihem; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). 14 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft lor easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the Ihinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and glosvplugs. 18 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
19 Hinge and lock lubrication
I
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock stnkers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them if necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
20 Headlight beam adjustment
I
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam Is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of, and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door. 3 Draw a horizontal tine on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car. then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum Illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If not, turn the adjustment screw located on the upper Inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it Is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment,

1B«12 Every 20 000 miles - diesel models
21 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of atl instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment rn turn, to check that It functions properly. Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feete positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps. Drivetrain 6 Check (he performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that tho drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel Is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action Is not abnormally vague or notchy. 11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from ihe front of the vehicle, as the vehicle « driven slowly In a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check In both directions, if a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a driveshaft |oinl, in which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
13 Check that there Is no vibration through the steering when braking. 14 Check that the handbrake operates correctiy without excessive movement of th« lever, end that it holds the vehicle stationery on a slope. 15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo es the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no fimher hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder. Note: The vacuum for the servo unit is provided by the vacuum pump mounted on the left-hand end of t/ie cylinder head.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
22 Manual transmission oil level check ;5§
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface. If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car Is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked Immediately after driving the car. some of the oil will remain distnbuted around the transmission compo-nents, resulting In an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on tho front of the
transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen key. unscrew the plug and clean it. 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; this does not necessarily Indicate that the level Is correct. To ensure that a true level Is established, wait until the Initial trickle has stopped, then add oil as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging. The level will be correct when the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of the specified type-Make sure that the vehicle Is completely level when checking the level and do not overfill. 4 When the level is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
22.2 Transmission filler/level plug location
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years
23 Rear brake shoe check
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support It on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support), Remove the rear roadwhecla. 2 Using the inspection hole at the edge ot the brake drum, check that the linings are not worn below the minimum thickness given In the Spec ifi cat Ions (see Illustration). If necessary use a torch. 3 If the friction material on any shoe is worn down to the specified minimum thickness or iess. all four shoes must be renewed as a set, 4 At the same time check for signs of brake fluid leakage. 5 For a comprehensive check, the brake
drum should be removed and cleaned. This will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, and the condition of the brake drum itself to be fully examined (see Chapter 9). 8 Refit the rubber plugs then lower the car to the ground.
24 Timing belt renewal
Refer to Chapter 2C. Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt
ranees/a!
is 70 000
mHes
(105 000
km),
it is strong recommended that the interval is reduced on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to tho individual owner.
That being said, it is highly recommended to err on the side of safety, and renew (he belt at
this
earlier interval, bearing in mind the drastic consequences resulting from belt fetfure.
23.2 Check the thickness of the shoe friction material through the hole on the edge of the drum (arrowed)

2A«1
Chapter 2 Part A:
SOHC (8-valve) petrol
engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Auxiliary drivebelts • removal and refitting See Chapter 1A Gamstaft cover - removal and refitting 6 Camshaft oil seal - renewal 7 Camshaft • removal and refitting See Chapter 20 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 8 Cylinder compression test 3 Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul See Chapter 20 Cylinder head - remove] and refitting 9 Engine mountings - Inspection and renewal 11 Engine oil and filter • renewal See Chapter 1A
Degrees of difficulty
Engine oil level check See Weekiy checks Flywheel/driveplate • removal, inspection and refitting 10 General Information 1 Location of TOC on No 1 cylinder 2 Oil pump and pick-up tube - removal, inspection and refitting 13 Sump • removal and refitting 12 Timing belt and covers • removal and refitting .. 4 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting 5 Vafve clearance check and adjustment See Chapter 1A
Easy, suitable (or twics with little |g experience ^
Fairty easy, suitable jk for beginner with & some experience ^
Fatrty difficult, ^ suitable for competent ^ CKYmechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced DIY « mechanic ^
Veiy difficult, ^ aiitabte for expert DIY « or professional
Specifications
General Engine code:' 1108 cc engine (55 models): Up to May 1997 176.A6.000 May 1d97 onwards • . 176.B2.000 1242 cc engine (60 models): Up to May 1997 176.B1.000 May 1997 onward 176.B4.000 1242 cc engine (75 modete) 176.A8.000
•Note:
See Vehicle Identification for the location of code marking on the engine. 8cre: 11O0OC engine 70.0 mm 1242 cc engine 70.8 mm Stroke: 1108 cc engine 72.0 mm 1242 cc engine 78.86 mm Compression ratio: 1108 cc engine 9.6:1 1242 cc engine with single-point injection 9.6:1 1242 cc engine with multi-point injection 9.8:1 Rrlng order 1-3-4-2
No 1
cylinder location Timing belt end of engine
TnUng
belt tension See text
Lubrication system
Oil
pump type By-rotor driven from front of crankshaft Outer rotor-to-housing clearance 0.080to0.186mm
Axial
clearance 0.025 to 0.056 mm

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Torque wrench settings Nm
IM
ft Camshaft cover 8 6 Camshaft sprocket 70 52 Cylinder head; Stage 1 30 22 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 90° Siege 3 Angle-tighten a further 90B Crankshaft sprocket centre bott 100 74 Engine mounting bolt: M10X1.25 69 44 MB 25 18 Engine mounting nut (M10x 1.25) 60 44 Flywheet/driveplate 44 32 Sump 10 7 Timing belt tensJoner 28 21
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided Into four Parts: A. 8. C and D. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle are described in Part A. SOHC (8-valve) petrol engines, Part B. DOHC (18-valve) petrol engines and Part C, diesel engines. Part 0 covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, 9 and C, the assumption Is made lhat the engine is Installed in the vehicle, with sll ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling Information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified by their capacities. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, is given in the Specifications. The engines covered In this Part of Chapter 2 are water-cooled, single overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder units, with cast Iron cylinder Mocks and aluminium-alloy cylinder heads. All are mounted transversely at the front ot the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine, The cylinder head carries the camshaft which is driven by a toothed timing belt and runs In three bearings. It also houses the inlet and exhaust valves, which are closed by single coil springs, and which run in guides pressed Into the cylinder head. The camshaft actuates the vatves directly via cam followers mounted in the cylinder head. Adjustment of the valve clearances is by means of shims located on top of the followers. The cylinder head contains Integral oitways which supply and lubricate the tappets. The crankshafl Is supported by five main bearings, and endftoat is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted to the upper section of the centre main bearing.
Engine coolant is circulated by 8 pump, driven by the timing belt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from ihe front of the crankshaft. Oil Is drawn from the sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, It is distributed to the cylinder head, where It lubricates the camshaft journals and tappets, and also to the crankcase, where il lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big and smell-ends, gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. On 1242 cc engines, oil jets are fitted lo the base of each cylinder bore -these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to Improve cooling.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car a) Compression pressure - testing b) Auxiliary drivebelt - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 1A) c) Vatve clearances - checking and adjustment (refer to Chapter I A) d) Camshaft cover - removal and refitting e) Timing belt and covens - removal and refitting f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' h) Camshaft and cam followers • removal and refitting' t) Camshaft oil seal - renews/ j) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal k) Flywheel/dnvepfate • removal, inspection and refitting l) Engine mountings - inspection and renewal m)Sump - removal and refitting n) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly
•
removai. inspection and refitting *Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed In Chapter SO, with details of camshaft and cam follower removal. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described In Chapter 2D.
2 Location of
TDC
on % No
1
cylinder
General Information 1 The camshaft Is driven by the crankshaft, by means of sprockets and a timing belt. Both sprockets rotate In phase with each other and this provides the correct valve timing as the engine rotates. When (he liming belt is removed during servioing or repair, it Is possible for the camshaft and crankshaft to rotate Independently of each other and the correct valve timing Is then lost. 2 The design of the engines covered In this Chapter are such lhat potentially damaging piston-to-valve contact may occur if the camshaft is rotated when any of the pistons are stationary at, or near, the top of their stroke. 3 For this reason it is important lhat Ihe correct phasing between the camshaft and crankshaft is preserved whilst the timing belt Is off the engine. This is achieved by setting the engine In a reference position (known as Top Dead Centre or TDC) before the timing belt Is removed and then preventing the camshaft and crankshaft from rotating until the belt is refitted. Similarly, if ths engine has been dismantled for overhaul, the engine can be set to TOC during reassembly to ensure that Ihe correct shaft phasing is restored. 4 TDC is the highest point In the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC at Ihe end of the compression stroke and again at the end of the exhaust stroke. However, for the purpose of timing the ongine. TDC refers to the position of No 1 piston at the end of Its compression stroke. On ail engines In this manual, No 1 piston (and cylinder) Is at the timing belt end of the engine. 5 The camshaft sprocket Is equipped with a marking which, when aligned with a reference marking on the cylinder head, indicates that the camshaft is correctly positioned for cyl-inder No 1 al TDC on its compression stroke.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
2.11 Unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolts
6 Itae crankshaft sprocket Is also equipped •nth a timing mark - when this is aligned with 3relarence marking on the oil pump cover.
Hie
engine is set with cylinders No 1 and 4 at
TDC.
Note that it is the camshaft positioning that determines whether a cylinder is on its comcression or exhaust stroke.

Location
of TDC on cylinder No 1 7 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Chapter 4A or 4B. Remove the
spark
plug from No 1 cylinder as described in Chapter 1A. 8 Firmly apply the handbrake, then |ack up
the
front of the car and support it securely on iiia stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). 9 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 1A. 10 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Mole the bolt located at the bottom of the
coven
this can be easily overlooked. 11 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see {lustration). 12 Turn Ihe engine in its normal direction of rotation (using a socket or spanner on Ihe crankshaft sprocket centre bolt) until pressure an be felt at No
1
cylinder spark plug hole.
1 flfliyflg^ Remove all four spark plugs; "••"•1 this will make the engine HlNTl easier to turn; refer to Chapter 1A for details.
13 Continue turning the engine until the crahaft sprocket TDC timing mark is aligned with the mark on the cylinder head and the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the mark on the oil pump cover (see ilustrations). 14 The engine is now set at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression.
3 Cylinder compression test t ^
1 When engine performance Is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to tne ignition or fuei systems, a compression isst can provide diagnostic clues as to the
2.13a Camshaft sprocket and cylinder head TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned -shown with timing belt removed engine's condition. II the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fufly charged, and all the spark plugs must be removed (Chapter 1A). The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by dis-connecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition coils. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cyl-inder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred, 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the lest on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any excessive difference indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is very low. carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear Is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a biown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
2.13b Crankshaft sprocket and oil pump cover TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned
than the others and Ihe engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition LT wiring plug.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal and refitting ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special timing belt fens/on measuring toot to correctly set tho timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. It the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known fo be correct. Refer to a Fiat dealer foradvSce.
General information 1 The function of the timing belt is to drive Ihe camshaft and coolant pump. Should the belt slip or break In service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valvo contact will occur, resulting in serious engine damage, 2 The timing belt should be renewed ai the specified intervals (see Chapter 1A), or earlier if it is contaminated with oil. or if it is at all noisy in operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear). 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it Is a wise precaution to check the condition of the coolant pump at the same time (check for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fall.
Removal 4 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front road wheel. 5 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 46. 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) and the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A.
2A

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.7 Removing the timing belt cover bottom bolt
7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom of the cover, this can easily be overlooked (see illustration), 8 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see illustration). 9 Set the engine al TDC on No 1 cylinder as described in Section 2. 10 Release the nut on the timing belt tensioner, move the lensloner pulley away from the belt and retighten the nut to hold the pulley In the retracted position (see illustration). 11 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the bell off the sprockets-Note that the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated whilst the belt Is removed. 12 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine ts undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of Its apparent condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing compared with the cost of repairs, should the belt break in sen/ice. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it. Wash down the engine timing belt area and alt related components, to remove all traces of oil.
Refitting 13 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that Ihe tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley as described In Section 5. 14 When refitting the new belt, make sure that the sprocket liming marks ore still In alignment and fit the belt so that the arrows on the belt point in the direction of engine rotation, and the lines of the belt coincide with the sprocket marks. 15 Engage the timing belt wilh the crankshaft sprocket first, then place it around the coolant pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket (see illustration). Finally slip the bell around the tensioner pulley.
II
4.8 Removing the crankshaft pulley
16 Refease the tensioner nut and Insert the laws of a pair of right-angled clmilp pliers (or similar Into the two holes on the front face of the tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley anticlockwise against the belt until the belt is quite taut. Check lhat the sprocket timing marks have not moved out of alignment. 17 Maintain the effort apptied to the tensioner pulley, then tighten the retaining nut. 18 Turn the crankshaft through two complete turns in the normal direction ot rotation and check that when the centre of (he longest run of the belt Is gripped between finger and thumb It can Just be twisted through 90°. 19 If the belt appears too be too slack or too fight, slacken the tensioner nut and repeat steps 16 to 18 until the correct tension is achieved. Caution: The above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension. The tension must be checked accurately by a Flat dealer using specialised checking equipment, at the earliest opportunity. 20 Refit the timing belt cover, the crankshaft pulley, auxiliary drivebelt(s>, spark plugs and the air cleaner/ducting. Adjust the tension of the auxiliary drivebelt(sl as described In Chapter 1A. 21 Refit the front wheel and lower the car to the ground.
5 Timing belt tensioner % and sprockets - removal, ^ Inspection and refitting ^
Timing beit tensioner
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described m Chapter 4A or 48, 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebeltfs) as descnbed In Chapter 1A. 4 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket, 5 Unbolt and remove the timing bolt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom ot the cover, this can easily be overlooked.
4.10 Releasing the timing belt tensioner nut
4.15 Fitting the timing belt
6 Set the engine at TDC on No 1 cylinder as described In Section 2, 7 Loosen the nut on the timing belt tension* and move the tensioner pulley away from the belt (see Illustration), Keep the belt engaged with the sprockets using a cable-tie or string. 8 Completely unscrew the nut and slide Ihe tensioner off Ihe mounting stud. Inspection 9 Wipe the tensioner clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the tensioner pulley on Its hub by hono. Stiff movement or excessive freeplay is w indication of severe wean the tensioner Is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed. Refitting 10 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut.
S.7 Timing bell tensioner retaining nut (arrowed) - shown with timing belt removed

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
I To make o camshaft sprocket holding ; tool, obtain two lengths of steel strip I about 6 mm thick by 30 mm wide or ; similar, one €00 mm long, the other 200 mm long (all dimensions approximate). Bolt the two strips together to form a forked end, leaving the bolt slack so that the shorter strip can pivot freely. At the end of each 'prong' of the fork, secure a bolt with a nut and a locknut, to act as the fulcrums; these will engage with the cut-outs In the sprocket, and should protrude by about 30 mm
11 Check and adjust the tension of the timing tel with reference to Section 4. 12 Relit Ihe timing belt cover and tighten the bolts. 13 Relit the crankshaft pulley. 14 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s)
as
described in Chapter 1. 15 Refil the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 48. 16 Refil the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the
ground.

Camshaft
sprocket
Removal 17 Remove the timing bell as described in Section 4. 16 The camshaft sprocket must now be held stationary while the retaining bolt is loosened. To
cto this,
make up a tool as follows and engage it
with the
holes
in
the sprocket (see Tool Tip). 19 Alternatively pass a rod through one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket to prevent it rotating. Position a pad of rag or a piece of
integral key
securing bolt and washer...
wood under the rod to avoid damaging the cylinder head. 20 Unscrew the bolt and slide the sprocket from the end of tho camshaft. Note the integral location key on the inner face of the sprocket (see illustrations). Inspection 21 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 7 and renew it. 22 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 23 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 24 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten to the specified torque while holding the camshaft stationary using the method described previously. 25 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket
Removal 26 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 27 Working beneath the engine, unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, then hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a toot which engages the flywheel starter ring gear (see Section 10). Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the stader ring gear. 26 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and slide the sprocket off the end of the
^P
5.32 Tighten the crankshaft sprocket bolt to the specified torque
end of the camshaft Integral location key (arrowed)
crankshaft. The sprocket may have an integral location key on its inner face (see illustration), or a separate key which locates in a groove in the crankshaft nose may be fitted. Inspection 29 With the sprocket removed, examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 8 and renew it. 30 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 31 Wipe clean the sprocket and crankshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 32 Slide the sprocket onto the crankshaft making sure it engages the integral key or separate key, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using the method described in paragraph 27 (see illustration). 33 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
6 Camshaft cover -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner assembly and inlet duct as described in Chapter 4A or 4B. 2 Progressively unscrew the mounting bolts from the top of the camshaft cover and lift off the cover • note the location of any supports on the bolts (see illustration). If it sticks, do
6.2 Removing the camshaft cover

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
6.3 Camshaft cover gasket
not attempt to lover it ofl • instead free >t by working around the cover and lapping it lightly with a soft-faced mallet, 3 Recover the camshaft covor gasket {see Illustration). Inspect the gasket carefully. And renew It If damage or deterioration is evident. 4 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and camshaft cover thoroughly, removing all traces of oil and old gasket - take care to avoid damaging the surfaces as you do this.
Refitting 5 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head and make sure it Is correctly seated. 6 Lower the cover onto the gasket making sure the gasket is not displaced. 7 Insert Ihe mounting bolts and tighten them progressively to the specified torque. 8 Refit the air cleaner assembly and inlet duct with reference to Chapter 4A or 48.
7 Camshaft oil seal • renewal I
1 Remove the timing beft and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5, 2 Using a suitable hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the cylinder head taking care not to damage the surface of (he camshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the cylinder head and the end of the camshaft. To prevent damage to the new olf seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the camshaft and lightly oil it.
4 Dip the new oil seal In oil then locate it over the camshaft making sure that the sealing lips are facing inwards, 5 Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely Into the cylinder head. Remove the adhesive tape. 8 Refit the camshaft sprocket and liming belt wtth reference to Sections 5 and 4.
8 Crankshaft oil seals - ^ renewal S
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The fronl oil seal is located in tho oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean Ihe seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it. 4 Dtp the new oil seal In oil then offer It up 1o the oil pump casing making sure that tho sealing lips are facing Inwards. G Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely into the casing. Remove the adhesive tape. 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Sections S and 4.
Rear {left-hand side) oil seal Note: The following paragraphs describe renewal of the rear oil seal leaving the housing in position. Refer to Chapter 2D for details of removing the housing. 7 Remove the fiywheel/drlveplate as described in Section 10. 8 Using a suitable hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the rear oil seat housing taking care not to damage the surface of Ihe crankshaft. 9 Clean the seating In the nousing and the surface of the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft for burrs which may damage the sealing lip of the new seal, and If necessary use a fine file to remove them,
10 Dip the new seal In clean engine oil and carefully locate it over the crankshaft rear flange making sure that It is the correct way round. 11 Progressively tap the oil seal Into the housing keeping It square to prevent distortion. A block of wood is useful for this purpose. 12 Refit the fiywheet/drlvepiate with refer-ence to Section 10.
9 Cylinder head -removal and refitting I
i Removing the timing belt inner covers 9.12 Removing the cylinder head
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative termine! (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A. then remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 48. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable and controls from the throttle housing. 4 Disconnect the fuel hoses. 5 Disconnect the coolant and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head and inlet manifold. 6 Disconnect all electrical leads noting their location. 7 Remove the Ignition colls with reference to Chapter 58. 8 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4, then unbolt end remove the timing belt inner covers (see Illustration). 9 Unbolt and remove the Inlet manifold, complete with throttle housing. On MPI models unbolt the fuel rail. 10 Unbolt the exhaust manifold from th» cylinder head, and tie it to the front of tto engine compartment. If preferred remove the manifold completely by unbolting Ihe downpipe. Also disconnect iha downpipe bracket. 11 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts hall a turn at a time in the reverse order to thai shown In illustration 9.24b. When the bolts in free, remove them wtth their washers. 12 Lift the cylinder head from Ihe block (see Illustration), if It is stuck tight Insert pieces
of
wood Into the exhaust or Inlet ports, and use them as levers to rock the head off the block. On no account drive levers into the gasket joint, nor attempt to tap the head sideways,
as
It Is located on positioning dowels. 13 Remove and discard the cylinder heed gasket and the manifold gaskets. 14 The cylinder head can be dismantled after removing the camshaft and cam followers as described in Chapter 2D. 15 If the valves have been ground-in, the valve clearances will require adjusting, as described In Chapter 1A. This should be dons before the cylinder head is refitted to the engine.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Preparation for refitting 16 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting
the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take padicular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not afowed to enter the oil and water passages -Ihs is particularly important for the lubrication
system, as
carbon could block the oil supply to
Ihe
engine's components. Using adhesive tape
and
paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in tf« cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering twgap between the pistons and bores, smear
a
iittte grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all
ttie pistons
in the same way. 17 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if (xcassive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the Cytodar head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion.
Refer
to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 18 Check the condition of the cylinder head
MRS.
and particularly their threads, whenever
they are
removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting Ihe assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that
the
bolt holes in the cylinder block have been
mopped
out to clear any oil. 20 Check that the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned with tteir respective cylinder head and oil pump covtr marks as described in Section 2. 21 The new gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit
the
gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly dean.
9.22a Place the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block ... 22 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above (see illustrations). 23 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that It locates on the positioning dowel. 24 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts In engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. Screw the bolls in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, tighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through ihe specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used dunng this stage of tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 25 Refit the inlet manifold and throttle body using a new gasket (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B). 28 Refit the exhaust manifold using a new gasket. Tighten all nuts. Reconnect the exhaust downplpe bracket. 27 Refit the timing belt inner covers and tighten the bolls. 28 Refit the timing belt, and tension It as described in Section 4. Refit the timing belt outer cover. 29 Refit the ignition colls and camshaft cover. 30 Reconnect all hoses, electrical leads and controls referring the relevant Chapters of this manual. 31 Fit the air cleaner and ducting.
9.22b ... so that the ALTO marking can be read from above 32 Reconnect the battery then fill and bleed the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A.
10 Flywheel/driveplate • ^ removal, inspection
and
refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A or 7B. On manual transmission models also remove the clutch (Chapter 6). 2 Mark the position of the flywheel/driveplate with respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. Note thai on some models although there is only one location dowel on the flywheel/driveplate there are two holes in the eno of the crankshaft and it is therefore possible to locate Ihe flywheel 180n out. The flywheel/driveplate must now be held stationary while the bolts are loosened. A home-made locking tool may be fabricated from a piece of scrap metal and used to lock the ring gear. Bolt the tool to one of the transmission bellhousing mounting holes. 3 Unscrew then remove the mounting bolts then lift off the flywheel/driveplate. Recover the spacer plate on manual transmission models. Discard the fiywheet/drivepiate boils; new ones must be used on refitting.
Inspection
Manual transmission models 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface is deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
JEaMKA. mar 9.24c Using an angle gauge to tighten the cylinder head bolts to their second and third stage torque settings
L

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
require cutting with a sharp Knife to release
the sump.
Clean away all old gasket material. Refitting
5
Wwn refitting, a bead of RTV silicone nsiant gasket 3 mm in diameter should be applied lo the sump flange. Fit the sump, screw in tha fixing screws and tighten to the spscabed torque. Note the flange end fixing
nuts
(see illustrations).
6
'//ait one hour for the gasket compound to henjai before filling with engine oil. 7 Refit the flywheel housing cover plate and tohaust system front pipe.
8
lower the vehicle to the ground and fill the eng'rewith oil (see Chapter 1A). Check the oil
fevai
alter running the engine for a few minutes.

13 Oil
pump and pick-up tube - >>>
removal,
inspection and ^ refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain tho engine oil and remove the sump adsswibed in Section 12.
%
Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge .
(see
Chapter 1A|. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In
Section A.
4
Lock
the crankshaft against rotat>on either by tfacng a block of wood between a crankshaft wb and the inside of the crankcase, or by jjmning the flywheel starter ring gear with a
lutabfe
tool.
I3v8a Removing the oil pump pressure relief valve
12.5a Tightening a sump fixing screw
5 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft sprocket boll and take off the sprocket. If it is tight, use two screwdrivers to lever it off, or use a two or three-legged puller. 6 Unbolt and remove the oil pick-up/filter screen assembly. Note the sealing washer. 7 Extract the oil pump fixing bolts and withdraw the pump. Remove the gasket.
Inspection 8 The oil pump incorporates a pressure relief valve, which can be removed for examination by depressing the spring plunger and pulling out the keeper plate (see illustrations). 9 If pump wear Is suspected, check the gears in the following way. Extract the fixing screws and remove the rear cover plate. The screws are very tight, and will probably require the use of an impact screwdriver (see illustration).
pressure relief valve
12.5b Sump fixing screw and flange end fixing nut
10 Check the clearance between the outer gear and the pump housing using feeler blades. Check the gear endtloat by placing a straightedge across the pump body, and checking the gap between the straight-edge and gear face (see illustrations). If the clearances are outside the specified tolerance, renew the oil pump complete. 11 If the pump is unworn, refit the rear cover plate and tighten the screws fully. 12 Apply air pressure from a tyre pump to the oil pump oil ducts, to clear any sludge or other material. Prime the pump by pouhng clean engine oil into its inlet duct, at the same time turning the oil pump inner gear with the fingers. 13 Lever out the oil seal and drive a new one squarely into the oil pump casing (see illustrations). Lubricate the oil seal lips.
13.9 Using an impact screwdriver to remove the oil pump rear cover pfate screws
13,19s Measuring oil pump outer gear-to- 13.10b Measuring oil pump gear endtloat pump housing clearance