engine FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Service Manual

• Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing.
Although a check of the injection timing is scheduled as a
service item, there is no reason why the timing should have
altered if the pump mounting bolts are tight and the pump
has not been disturbed. Injection timing is best checked
dynamically by a FIAT dealer or diesel specialist using
specialised equipment. If you want to check the timing stati-
cally, and you have access to a dial gauge and the necessary
adaptor to fit it to the pump, proceed as follows:
39A. Slacken the injection
pump flange nuts
-
one can be
seen (A) in illustration 39B -
and rear support bracket lower
bolt. Make sure that the
manual cold start control lever
(at the dashboard, where fitted)
is fully off.
BOSCH PUMP ONLY
necessary Lucas dial gauge (A), the holder (B) and the probe
(C) threaded into position in place of the plastic cap, position
the engine crankshaft at Top Dead Centre. Ensure that the
dial gauge is fitted to its holder and the pump (D) with a pre-
loading of 10-15 mm, then zero it. Slowly turn the pump
body, turning the upper part away from engine block. Now,
slowly turn the engine crankshaft in the normal direction of
rotation until the dial gauge indicates the measurement you
read off the pump label (that's the correct timing point).
Tighten the pump nuts/bolt. Turn the crankshaft by two
complete revolutions in the normal direction of rotation, then
re-check the timing. If incorrect, repeat the timing procedure.
Remove the tool and refit the plastic plug. Adjust the idle
speed if necessary. See Job 38.
• Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold
fixings.
Check that the inlet and exhaust manifold nuts and bolts are
tightened to the correct torque. See Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
• Job 41. Check exhaust system.
Examine the silencer and exhaust pipes and joints for
corrosion and signs of leaking, indicated by a 'sooty' deposit
at the point of the leak.
41. Also check the condition of the rubber 'hangers' that hold
the system to the car. If any are missing or broken, the
exhaust system can fracture due to extra stresses. Stretch the
rubber, and look for cracks.
39B. Unscrew the plug (illus-
tration 39A, part B) at the rear
of the injection pump, and
screw in a Bosch pump dial
gauge and adaptor.
(The FIAT tool
number for this is no.
1865090000.) With
the tool fully screwed
in, turn the engine in
the opposite direction
to normal rotation
until the plunger
inside the pump
reaches its lowest
position
-
as indicated by gauge movement. In this position,
zero the gauge. Now turn the engine in normal direction until
engine piston No. 1 is at Top Dead Centre. The dial gauge
should read
1
mm if the timing is correct. If it isn't, gently turn
the injection pump housing relative to its mounting until the
correct measurement is shown on the gauge. Now lock up the
pump flange nuts and rear support bracket bolt. Remove the
tool and refit the blanking plug to the back of the pump.
Adjust the idle speed if necessary. See Job 38.
LUCAS/ROTODIESEL/CAV PUMP ONLY
39C. You will find a label
attached to the top of the
injection pump, quoting the
correct timing measurement in
millimetres. Slacken the pump
flange nuts (as in, illustration
39B, part A) and the rear
support bolt (as in, illustration
39A, part A). Remove the
plastic cap from the pump top.
Now turn the engine crankshaft
in the opposite direction to
normal rotation by about 20
degrees. Using either FIAT tool
No. 1865091000 or, with the
cos / * susPect a but
fl^^^Cf- ^^ its location isn't obvious,
start the engine and
pressurise the system by holding a piece of board
against the tailpipe.
• Under pressure, the leak should be more noisy and
obvious.
• Don't burn yourself on the exhaust!

PART F: STEERING AMD SUSPENSION
G Job 42. Check front wheel bearings.

In
order to check for wear:
• raise the front of the car on axle stands (see Chapter 1,
Safety First!)
• place the gearbox in neutral
• pull the handbrake securely on and chock the rear wheels

Try
spinning each wheel (as far as possible with a front-drive
car), feeling for rough rotation. Rock the wheel about its
centre, feeling for excess bearing play.
D INSIDE INFORMATION: If a wheel bearing is worn, you
will normally hear a noise on the outer, loaded bearing
when cornering. D
G Job 43. Check front suspension.
BOTTOM BALL JOINT
Jack
up
the car underneath the suspension lower arm
(wishbone), so that the wheel is two inches off the ground.
See Chapter
1,
Safety First.
SUSPENSION STRUT/SHOCK ABSORBER
43D. Examine the shock
absorber, which is enclosed
inside the coil spring, for
leaks, looking for signs of a
'damp' oil stain seeping from
underneath the top half of
the shock absorber body.
The top of the strut/shock
absorber is mounted in a
rubber bush which can be
checked for softness,
cracking or deterioration
from inside the engine bay.
43A. Place a long,
rigid bar between

the
ground and the
bottom of the tyre
tread, and carefully
'jog' the wheel
upwards repeatedly
while a helper looks

at and
feels the
lower balljoint for vertical movement. The helper should NOT

lie
under the car, and you should be careful not to rock the

car
off
the jack.
Also examine the ball joint gaiter for any

damage
or leakage of grease
-
a simple, visual examination.

You will
have to replace the wishbone assembly if the gaiter is
damaged. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements for
information.
TRACK CONTROL ARM INNER BUSHES
43B. Further raise the car

and
support it on an axle

stand
under the subframe so

that the
suspension on the

side being
checked can hang
free. Lever between the arm

and
subframe, looking for
excessive movement of the
bushes. Some cushioned
flexing
is
normal. See

Chapter
6, Repairs and
Replacements for bush
replacement information.

One bush is
at the front

inner end
of the wishbone...
ANTI-ROLL BAR BUSHES
43E. Check the outer
mountings, on the
suspension, and the body
mountings.
• Job 44. Check steering column, rack and TREs.
44A. Drive the car on to car
ramps, firmly apply the
handbrake and chock the
rear wheels. Get your helper
to sit inside the car, turn the
ignition key to the 'MAR'
(ON) position to release the
steering column lock. Now,
move the steering wheel
repeatedly about 100 mm (4
in.) each way while someone
checks for free movement in
BOUNCE TEST: Try 'bouncing' each front corner of the car in
a rhythmical motion, pressing down as hard as you can. When
you let go, the movement should continue for no more than
one-and-a-half rebounds. If it does so, this is a sure indication
that the shock absorber is
worn and should be replaced.
If one of the front shock
absorbers needs replacing,
replace both, for safety
reasons.

each track rod end (TRE). Also, look out for a split gaiter.
Replace the TRE if the gaiter is split, or it will rapidly fail.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: Try placing your hand over the
TRE as the steering is moved. If there are any signs of
wear, replace the TRE. Q
STEERING COLUMN
44B. The steering column has two universal joints (A) which
need to be checked for wear. While your assistant is turning
the steering wheel, check to see if there is any movement in
the universal joints.
44C. The upper joint is found
alongside the foot pedals.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION:
Place your hand over the joint

-
you can usually feel the
movement better than you
can see it. If there is ANY
movement at all, play at the
steering wheel will be greatly
exaggerated
-
replace the
faulty universal joint. B
STEERING RACK GAITERS
44D. B INSIDE INFORMATION: Check the right hand
gaiter from beneath; the left-hand from inside the
engine bay. Q
Turn the ignition key to the 'MAR' (ON) position but take care
not to start the engine. Turn the steering wheel to full right
lock. From underneath the bonnet, examine the gaiter (see
illustration 44B, parts B) on the left-hand side, which will now
be fully extended. Check visually for splits or oil leakage. Turn
the steering wheel to the opposite lock and examine the gaiter
(B) on the other side of the rack. If necessary, replace IMMEDI-
ATELY
-
the rack will rapidly be ruined if the gaiter is split.
Also, watch the steering rack body (C) to see if it is firmly
attached. If there is any movement between the rack and its
mountings, check the securing bolts for tightness.
• Job 45. Check power steering fluid.
45A. When the
engine is cold, the
power steering fluid
should not drop below
the LIVELLO (level)
mark (B) on the
reservoir (A)...
45B. ...or the mark on the dipstick, as shown. It's okay for the
level to appear too high when the engine is hot.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The reservoir 'floats' around the
engine bay
-
in different places in different models.
• Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings.
Tipo/Tempra rear wheel bearings are sealed in their hubs and
are usually very long lived. See the checking procedures
described in Job 42, but remember not to apply the
handbrake! Also note that the rear wheels will be easier to
spin than the fronts.
• Job 47. Check rear suspension.
Chock the front
wheels, jack the rear
of the car, and place
stands under the axle,
as close to the wheels
as possible. Lower the
car onto the axle
stands.
47. Check the subframe mountings (x4), the trailing arm bush
pivot bolts, the shock absorber lower mounting bolts and the
anti-roll bar mounting bolts for tightness. Check the condition
of the mounting bushes by levering them with a screwdriver.
Replace if excessive movement or bush deterioration are
noticed. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.

Please read the whole of CHAPTER
1,
SAFETY FIRST before carrying out any work on your car.
CHAPTER 6
REPAIRS AND REPLACEMENTS
This chapter shows you how
to remove and overhaul all
the major 'wearing' parts of
the car. We deliberately don't
show how to rebuild major
components, such as the
gearbox, or differential. You
are much better off, in terms
of time, cost and the
provision of a guarantee, to
buy a replacement unit.
The same applies to major
electrical components, such
as alternator and starter
motor. If, as we recommend,
you stick to 'original' FIAT
replacement parts, you will
maintain the original quality
of your car.
PART A: ENGINE
PART B: TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH
PART C: COOLING SYSTEM
PART D: IGNITION
PART E: ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS
:er Contents
PARTf: FUEL AND EXHAUST
PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION
PART H: BRAKES
PART I: BODY AND INTERIOR
110
Page No.
116
127
134
143
Illustration and Section Numbers
• In this chapter, each area of the car is dealt with in a
different PART of the chapter, such as, PART A: ENGINE.
• Each job in each PART has a separate identifying number.
For example Job 2. Cylinder head removal.
• Every Job is broken down into easy-to-follow Steps,
numbered from 1-on.
• Illustrations are numbered so that you can see at a glance
where they belong!
• The illustration Job
1-3
(in PART A) for example, relates to
the text in Job 1, Step 3.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Before carrying out any of the work in this chapter,
be sure to read and understand Chapter 1, Safety
First!
• Be sure to read any safety notes supplied with any
of

the materials for equipment you purchase in
connection with the work described in this chapter.
• If you are not sure about your competence or
skills in

carrying out any of the work described in this chapter,
have the work carried out by your FIAT dealership.
FACT FILE: TIPO and TEMPRA ENGINE TYPES
PETROL ENGINES: The engines covered by
this manual are by far the most commonly
found in the UK. There may be the odd few with
different capacities or specifications which have been imported
from other countries but even they are usually similar. Here we
are concerned with one type of OHC (overhead camshaft)
PETROL engine, in 1372cc (1400) and 1581cc (1600) capacities.
They are best identified by the fact that the 1400 has its
distributor mounted on the side of the cylinder block and the
1600 has a distributor which is mounted on the end of the
camshaft, flywheel end.
DIESEL ENGINES: The Diesel engines covered here are the
1697cc (1700), the 1929cc (1900) and the 1929cc (1900) turbo.
It would take a trained eye to spot any differences between the
normally aspirated engines, but the turbo mounted on the
exhaust manifold together with its associated extra 'plumbing'
easily identifies the most powerful version.

PART A: ENGINE
PART A: Contents
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and Job 12. Petrol engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
adjustment. Job 13. Diesel engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and
Job 2. Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
removal. adjustment. •
Job 3. Petrol engine. Cylinder head and camshaft housing -Job 14. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
removal.
refitting. Job 15. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
refitting.
Job
4.
Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
dismantling and Job 16. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
overhaul.
overhauling. Job 17. Diesel engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment.
Job 5. Petrol engine
-
dismantling. Job 18. Diesel engine
-
removal.
Job
6.
Petrol engine
-
checking and reassembly. Job 19. Diesel engine
-
refitting.
Job
7.
Petrol engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment. Job 20. Diesel engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
Job 8. Petrol engine/transmission
-
removal. Job 21. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

Job
9.
Petrol engine/transmission
-
refitting. separation.
Job 10. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 22. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

separation. reconnection.
Job 11. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 23. Diesel engine
-
dismantling.
reconnection. Job 24. Diesel engine
-
reassembly.
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
- replacement and adjustment.
Mi*^^ Zc+sc, / • The crankshaft pulley nut
n^^ will be difficult to turn.
• If the engine is in the car,
engage a gear (or 'Park' in the case of an automatic)
and have an assistant hold the footbrake down very
firmly. This will stop the engine from turning.
• Alternatively, with the starter motor removed, you
can have a helper prevent the flywheel ring gear from
turning with a large screwdriver.
• Step 4: Before removing the belt, put the pulley nut back
onto the crankshaft, take the car out of gear (if the engine is
still in the car) and remove the spark plugs. You can now turn
the engine in a clockwise direction using the refitted crank
pulley nut
-
without the pulley, of course!
• Step 5A: With
the timing belt still in
place, turn the engine
so that the timing
mark on the camshaft
sprocket lines up with
the one on the front
cover. On some
engines, the front
cover looks like this...
• Step 5B:
...while on the
majority, it looks
like this. The top
part of the cover
backplate slides
out so that the
plastic pip is level
with the camshaft
sprocket. Turn
the sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket lines up
with this pip.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is false economy to refit a used
timing belt. If the belt breaks, it will cause complete
engine failure so always fit a new one.
• Step 1:
Disconnect the battery

and
remove the
alternator drivebelt as
described in PART C:

COOLING
SYSTEM
0 Step 2: Take off

the timing
belt cover.

This is held
by a total

of
four bolts (arrowed).
• Step 3: Take off

the
crankshaft pulley

nut and
remove the
pulley.

• Step 6A: You
must also check
that the mark (a)
on the timing belt
pulley lines up
with the reference
mark (b) on the oil
seal housing. It will
be essential that
all of these marks
align when the
new belt is fitted!
Q Step 6B: On earlier engines rotate the crankshaft so that
the reference mark on the driving pulley is in line with the
TDC reference mark on the front cover. If the engine is in the
vehicle, position the crankshaft at TDC using the reference
marks on the flywheel and bellhousing window.
• Step 7:
Slacken off the belt
tensioner...
• Step 8: ...and
remove the camshaft
timing belt.
Q Step 9: The new
belt must be fitted with
the arrows, printed on
the outside of the belt,
pointing in the direction
of engine rotation.
Ensure that the timing
marks are still aligned.
• Step 10: Engage the belt with the crankshaft sprocket
first, then in turn, the auxiliary and camshaft sprockets. Finally,
feed it round the tensioner pulley. Also, as a double-check
that the belt is not 'out', ensure that the yellow lines on the
belt align exactly with the timing marks on the camshaft
sprocket and crankshaft sprocket.
Q Step 11: Slacken the tensioner nut and push the pulley
onto the belt until taut. Check that the timing marks are still
correctly aligned. Still pressing the pulley against the belt,
tighten its locking nut.
• Step 12: H INSIDE INFORMATION! Before finally
tightening the tensioner nut when adjusting the tension,
remove it, clean the thread and apply Loctite
Threadlocker to help stop the nut and washer shaking
loose. Q
Q Step 13: Turn the engine through two complete turns
clockwise and re-check the belt tension. Adjust again if
necessary.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Without the special tools used
by FIAT, you can make an approximate adjustment by
tensioning the belt so that it can be twisted through 90
degrees (one quarter turn) mid way between the
camshaft and auxiliary shaft sprockets, using your finger
and thumb. If you can't put enough pressure on the belt
tensioner with your fingers, push a pair of bolts into the
two holes in the tensioner and lever between them to
turn the tensioner. B

Job 2. Petrol engine. Cylinder
head • removal.
• Step 1: Take note of the parts shown in this drawing -
which is also relevant to several other jobs on Tipo and
Tempra petrol engines.
7
-
cirdip 8
-
plate 9
-
flywheel 10-spigot bearing
11 -
thrust bearing 12
-
main bearing 13-crankshaft
14 - sump 15 - sump gasket 16 - oil seal 17 - auxiliary shaft cover 18 - gasket 19 - front oil seal housing 20 - oil seal 21 - bush 22 - auxiliary shaft 23 - drive gear 24 - dipstick 25 - oil pump 26 - auxiliary shaft sprocket
1
-
piston 2
-
gudgeon pin 3
-
connecting rod 4
-
big-end bearing 5
-
big-end bolt 6
-
small-end bush
27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39
turbo 40 - exhaust manifold - turbo 41 - exhaust manifold - non-turbo 42 - heated air duct 43 - camshaft cover 44 - camshaft housing 45 - oil seal 46 - camshaft 47 - tappet shim 48 - oil seal 49 - tappet body 50
-
valve, top cap Job 2-1
- crankshaft sprocket - tensioner pulley - timing belt cover - camshaft sprocket - camshaft belt - bracket - end plate - cylinder head gasket - cylinder head - timing belt - rear cover - inlet manifolds - turbo - plenum chamber
-
turbo - inlet manifold - non-
51 - valve spring - inner 52 - valve spring
-
outer 53 - valve, top cap 54 - washer 55 - valve guide 56 - valve 57 - end plate 58 - rear oil seal housing 59 - block 60 - oil seal 61 - sump drain plug
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! • Before removing the
cylinder head, make sure the engine is stone cold.
• Undo the cylinder head bolts strictly in the order laid
out in Step 18.
• These precautions help to prevent cylinder head
distortion.
• The new cylinder head gasket should stay in its
packaging until required, to avoid contamination by oil

or grease.
B
FACT FILE: SPECIAL TOOL PROBLEMS
SOLVED!
• It is possible to remove and replace the
cylinder head complete with the camshaft
housing - but it is very difficult without
FIAT's special cranked tool to get round the camshaft
housing.
• You CAN undo the bolts with a ring spanner, but you
CAN'T torque them down properly again!
• Because the gasket between the housing and the head could
also be suspect, we strongly recommend that you do it 'our'
way, by removing the camshaft housing even though you will
have to re-set the valve clearances.

SAFETY FIRST! • Step 7:
Disconnect the
electrical leads from
the following: the
inlet manifold
• Step 2: Disconnect both battery leads, negative
terminal first.
Q Step 3: Drain the cooling system and depressurise the
fuel system, if yours is a fuel injection engine
-
see PART
F:

FUEL AND EXHAUST
• Step 6B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable (a),
the idle speed check
actuator (b) and the
injector supply (c).
• Step 8: Detach
the exhaust
downpipe from the
manifold.
• Step 9: Remove
the dipstick
(arrowed) and the
cylinder head
coolant temperature
sensor (arrowed).
• Step 10: Also remove all the HT leads (along with the
distributor cap). Place them to one side.
• Step 11: Undo the brake servo hose from the manifold.
Q Step 4: Remove the air cleaner by releasing the spring
clips (a) at the front of the unit and the screw on the top face
(b) and disconnect the hoses
Remove the oil vapour
recovery pipe clips from beneath the rear of the housing, once
it is free to lift up.
Q Step 5: Disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the
cylinder head and the inlet tract or the SPI injector unit, as
appropriate and blank off with a bolt of suitable size.
• Step 6A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable
from its idler and
the choke cable
from its mounting.
Q Step 12: Remove the
water hoses connected to
the inlet manifold and
thermostat.
• Step 13 A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES. Disconnect the
fuel pipe from the carbu-
rettor and both pipes
from the fuel pump.
(Label both the pipes and
stubs so that they will be
reconnected the
right way round.)
• Step 13B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the fuel
supply and return
hoses from the
injector unit housing
(a). Plug the ends.
• Step 14A: CARBURETTOR ENGINES. Disconnect the
distributor vacuum pipe and oil vapour pipes from the carbu-
rettor.
vacuum sensor
(arrowed), the
manifold coolant
temperature sensors
(arrowed) and the
throttle position
switch and any
other leads which your engine may have.

• Step 14B: INJECTION ENGINES. Disconnect the
butterfly valve opening sensor connection (see illustration Job

2-13B,
part b) and the earth cable (Job
2-13B,
part c).
Q Step 15: Remove the
timing belt. See Job 1.
• Step 16: Unbolt and
remove the camshaft sprocket.
If necessary, use a screwdriver

held
through the sprocket
against a mounting bolt behind

it,
to stop it from turning.
• Step 17:
Remove the timing

belt
tensioner but

note
that it is in
three parts.
• Step 18: Unbolt and

remove
the timing belt
backplate. You could leave the
bottom half in place, if you are
going no further than removing

the
cylinder head.
• Step 19: Take
off
the six
nuts and

washers
holding the

cam
cover in place

and
remove it.
• Step 20: The
camshaft housing

can
now be
removed in order to

access
the cylinder

head
bolts. Slacken
the
12
housing

bolts
progressively,

so that
no strain is

put on
the housing

through
the valve
springs.
Job
2-20
|
• Step 21: The
camshaft housing
can now be lifted
away. Note the
gasket positioning
and fit a new one
on reassembly.
• Step 22:
H INSIDE
INFORMATION: If
the cam followers
are loose, you
may wish to
remove them now
so that they don't
fall out and lose
their position.
Keep them in the
correct order so that
they can go back
where they came from
on reassembly. D
• Step 23: Start
removing the cylinder
head by removing the 4
or 5 small cylinder head
bolts (according to
model)...
^Hob^l]
• Step 24:
...numbered
1
to
4 or 5, slackening
them in the order
shown.
• Step 25:
Now slacken the
remaining 10
bolts half a turn
at a time, in the
order shown'in
Step 24, until all
are loose, and
then remove
them with their
washers.
ft ft ft ft tt
Job 2-24

• Step 26:
Check that
nothing remains
attached to, or
obstructs the
cylinder head and
lift it clear of the
block. If stuck, it
is permissible to
tap the head
lightly with a soft mallet to free it. Never use a wedge
between the joint faces and remember that the head will not
slide off as it is located on dowels.
Job 3. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head and camshaft
housing - refitting.
• Carburettor cleaner
-
or
the purpose-made Loctite
'Chisel' aerosol spray,
available from your FIAT dealer, will help to remove
pieces of
stuck-on
gasket.
o
(
V.
o
o
o
o o o
o o e
• • • • •
0 0 O 0 o
Job
3-4

grease, place it on the block with (on FIAT gaskets) this
copper-ringed hole above the correct water passage. The
gasket only fits correctly one way round.
• Step 3:
Lower the
cylinder head into
position and
locate it on the
two dowels (see
illustration Job
3-2, arrowed).
Refer to the illustration to Job
2-1
in connection with the
work described here.
• Step 4: The
10 main cylinder
head securing
bolts and washers
can now be
screwed in by
hand. Don't fit
the smaller ones
(arrowed) yet.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: FIAT recommend that you
should not re-use cylinder head bolts which have been
refitted more than three times before. Fit new ones if in
doubt, so that you can ensure reliability. B
• Step 1: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts and washers
and leave them to drain for AT LEAST 20 minutes before
fitting them.
• Step 5B:
Tighten the head
down to the first
torque setting,
following the
correct tightening
order.
Q Step 27: Remove the old gasket.
IMPORTANT NOTES: • Here, we show how to refit the
head and camshaft housing, separated. The head
complete with housing cannot be torqued down
correctly without the use of FIAT's special, cranked
spanner for use on the semi-hidden head bolts.
• The valve clearances will have to be re-set. See Job 7.
Clean the block and cylinder head mating surfaces with a
straight edge, taking particular care with the light alloy head.
Any gouging of the metal could prove very expensive to have
put right!
Make sure that all the holes and coolant passages are clear of
any foreign matter, particularly the cylinder head bolt holes
which must be clear right down to the bottom.
• Step 5C: In
the same order,
tighten the bolts
to their second
torque setting.
• Step 2: With
the block face
perfectly clean,
remove the
cylinder head
gasket from its
wrapping and,
keeping it away
from oil or
Tighten by another (second) 90 degrees, bolt-by-bolt, again in
the correct order.
• Step 5D:
Tighten each bolt,
once again in the
correct order, by
a further 90
degrees. You
could use an
angle gauge
(available from
auto-accessory
stores) in order to
be precise.
Q Step 5A: Tighten the 10 larger bolts in their correct
sequence as shown in illustration Job
3-4.
All of the settings
are shown in
Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.