oil type FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Repair Manual

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

Mains Electricity
Avoid the use of mains electricity when working on the vehicle,
whenever possible. Use rechargeable tools and a DC inspection
lamp, powered from a remote 12V battery
-
both are much
safer. However, if you do use mains-powered equipment,
ensure that the appliance is wired correctly to its plug, that
where necessary it is properly earthed (grounded), and that the
fuse is of the correct rating for the appliance. Do not use any
mains powered equipment in damp conditions or in the vicinity
of fuel, fuel vapour or the vehicle battery.
Always use an RCD (Residual Current Device) circuit breaker
with mains electricity. Then, if there is a short, the RCD circuit
breaker minimises the risk of electrocution by instantly cutting
the power supply.
Ignition System
Never work on the ignition system with the ignition switched
on, or with the engine being turned over on the starter, or
running and you are recommended never to do so.
Touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT
leads, distributor cap, ignition coil etc., can result in a severe
electric shock or physical injury as a hand is pulled sharply away.
Voltages produced by electronic ignition systems are much
higher than those produced by conventional systems and could
prove fatal, particularly to people with cardiac pacemaker
implants. Consult your handbook or main dealer if in any
doubt.
Cooling Fan
On many vehicles, the electric cooling fan can switch itself on
even with the ignition turned off. This is especially likely after
driving the car and parking it before turning off, after which
heat rises to the top of the engine and turns the fan on,
suddenly and without warning. If you intend working in the
engine bay, it's best to do so when the engine is cold, to
disconnect the battery, or keep away from the fan, if neither of
these are possible.
Battery
Never cause a spark, smoke, or allow a naked light near the
vehicle's battery, even in a well ventilated area. Highly explosive
hydrogen gas is given off as part of the charging process.
Battery terminals on the car should be shielded, since a spark
can be caused by any metal object which touches the battery's
terminals or connecting straps.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before disconnecting the battery earth
(ground) terminal read the relevant FACT FILE in Chapter 5
regarding saving computer and radio settings.)
When using a battery charger, switch off the power supply
before the battery charger leads are connected or disconnected.
If the battery is not of the 'sealed-for-life' type, loosen the filler
plugs or remove the cover before charging. For best results the
battery should be given a low rate trickle charge overnight. Do
not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.
Always wear gloves and goggles when carrying or when
topping up the battery. Acid electrolyte is extremely corrosive
and must not be allowed to contact the eyes, skin or clothes.
Brakes and Asbestos
Obviously, a car's brakes are among its most important safety
related items. ONLY work on your vehicle's braking system if
you are trained and competent to do so. If you have not been
trained in this work, but wish to carry out the jobs described in
this book, we strongly recommend that you have a garage or
qualified mechanic check your work before using the car.
Whenever you work on the braking system components, or
remove front or rear brake pads or shoes: i) wear an efficient
particle mask; ii) wipe off all brake dust from the brakes after
spraying on a proprietary brand of brake cleaner (never blow
dust off with compressed air); iii) dispose of brake dust and
discarded shoes or pads in a sealed plastic bag; iv) wash your
hands thoroughly after you have finished working on the
brakes and certainly before you eat or smoke; v) replace shoes
and pads only with asbestos-free shoes or pads. Note that
asbestos brake dust can cause cancer if inhaled; vi) always
replace brake pads and/or shoes in complete 'axle' sets of four
-

never replace the pads/shoes on one wheel only.
Brake Fluid
Brake fluid absorbs moisture rapidly from the air and can
become dangerous resulting in brake failure. You should
change the fluid in accordance with your vehicle manufacturer's
recommendations or as advised in this book. Never store (or
use) an opened container of brake fluid. Dispose of the
remainder at your Local Authority Waste Disposal Site, in the
designated disposal unit, not with general waste or with waste
oil.
Engine Oils
Always wear disposable plastic or rubber gloves when draining
the oil from your engine, i) Note that the drain plug and the oil
are often hotter than you expect. Wear gloves if the plug is too
hot to touch and keep your hand to one side so that you are
not scalded by the spurt of oil as the plug comes away; ii) There
are very real health hazards associated with used engine oil. In
the words of one manufacturer's handbook "Prolonged and
repeated contact may cause serious skin disorders, including
dermatitis and cancer." Use a barrier cream on your hands and
try not to get oil on them. Always wear gloves and wash your
hands with hand cleaner soon after carrying out the work. Keep
oil out of the reach of children; iii) NEVER, EVER dispose of old
engine oil into the ground or down a drain. In the UK, and in
most EC countries, every local authority must provide a safe
means of oil disposal. In the UK, try your local Environmental
Health Department for advice on waste disposal facilities.
Plastic Materials
Many of the materials used (polymers, resins, adhesives and
materials acting as catalysts and accelerators) contain dangers in
the form of poisonous fumes, skin irritants, and the risk of fire

and explosions. Do not allow resin or 2-pack adhesive hardener,
or that supplied with filler or 2-pack stopper, to come into
contact with skin or eyes. Read carefully the safety notes
supplied on the can, tube or packaging and always wear
impervious gloves and goggles when working with them.
Fluoroelastomers
Fluoroelastomers are commonly used for oil seals, wiring and
cabling, bearing surfaces, gaskets, diaphragms, hoses and '0'
rings. If they are subjected to temperatures greater than 315
degrees C, they will decompose and can be potentially
hazardous. Some decomposition may occur at temperatures
above 200 degrees C, and it is obvious that when a car has
been in a fire or has been dismantled with the assistance of a
cutting torch or blow torch, the fluoroelastomers can
decompose in the manner indicated above.
According to the Health and Safety Executive, "Skin contact
with this liquid or decomposition residues can cause painful and
penetrating burns. Permanent irreversible skin and tissue
damage can occur". Damage can also be caused to eyes or by
the inhalation of fumes created as fluoroelastomers are burned
or heated.
After a vehicle has been exposed to fire or high temperatures:
1. Do not touch blackened or charred seals or equipment.
2. Preferably, don't handle parts containing decomposed
fluoroelastomers, but if you must, wear goggles and PVC
(polyvinyl chloride) or neoprene protective gloves whilst doing
so. Never handle such parts unless they are completely cool.
3. Contaminated parts, residues, materials and clothing,
including protective clothing and gloves, should be disposed of
by an approved contractor to landfill or by incineration
according to national or local regulations. Oil seals, gaskets and
'0' rings, along with contaminated material, must not
be burned.
1. Always have a fire extinguisher of the correct type at arm's
length when working on the fuel system. If you do have a fire,
DON'T PANIC. Use the extinguisher effectively by directing it at
the base of the fire.
2. NEVER use a naked flame anywhere in the workplace.
3. KEEP your inspection lamp well away from any source of
petrol (gasoline) such as when disconnecting a carburettor float
bowl or fuel line.
4. NEVER use petrol (gasoline) to clean parts. Use paraffin
(kerosene), white spirits, or, a proprietary degreaser.
5. NO SMOKING. There's a risk of fire or of transferring
dangerous substances to your mouth and, in any case, ash
falling into mechanical components is to be avoided.
FACT FILE: FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CARS
• Whenever you have to raise a wheel off the
ground and turn it by hand, always ensure that
the opposite-side's wheel to the one being lifted is
also off the ground and free to turn and that both wheels remaining
on the ground are held by the parking brake (if possible) and
securely chocked in both directions.
• ALWAYS have the gearbox in neutral (or 'N' in the case of
automatics). In the case of
some
4 wheel drive automatics and those
with permanent 4WD, it is necessary to disengage the 4WD system
by special means.
• Consult your handbook or seek advice from your main dealer.
6. BE METHODICAL in everything you do, use common sense,
and think of safety at all times.
ENVIRONMENT FIRST!
The used oil from the sump of
just
one car
can
cover
an
area of
water the size of two football pitches, cutting off the oxygen
supply
and
harming swans, ducks, fish and other river lift.
When you drain your engine oil
-
don't oil the drain!
Pouring oil
down the
drain will
cause
pollution. It is
also an
offense.
Don't mix used
oil with other
materials, such
as paint and
solvents,
because this
makes
recycling
difficult.
Take used oil
to an oil
recycling bank.
Telephone
FREE on 0800 663366 to find the location of your nearest oil
bank, or contact you local authority recycling officer.
OIL POLLUTES WATER
USE YOUR BRAIN-
NOT THE DRAIN!

PART F: TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Key for engine types and sizes: A
-
1372cc; B
-
1581cc;
C
-
1697cc Diesel; D
-
1929cc Diesel; E
-
1929cc Turbo Diesel.
Engine
Screw retaining caps to crankcase (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining intermediate and central caps to crankcase (M12 x 1.25)...
Self-locking screw retaining front and rear caps to crankcase (M12 x 1.25)
Bolt, cylinder head to engine block (M10 x 1.25)
IMPORTANT NOTE: All torque settings shown in
Newton-meters (Nm). Bolt, nut or screw sizes in
brackets in left-hand column.
Bolt, cylinder head to engine block (M12 x 1.25)
Bolts, top to bottom cylinder head (M8)
Nut for connecting rod cap retaining bolt (M9 x 1)
Screw, connecting rod cap (M10 x 1)
Screw retaining engine vent to crankcase
(M8)
(M8)
Screw retaining front cover to crankcase
(MlOx 1.25)
(M8)
Bolt retaining rear cover (flywheel side) to crankcase (M6)
Nut retaining inlet and exhaust ducts to cylinder head
(M8)
(M8)
Screw, flywheel to crankshaft
(M10x 1.25)
(M12
x
1.25)
Lower belt cover retaining screw (M8)
Screw, damping flywheel to drive gear (M8)
Nut retaining auxiliary drive pulley to crankshaft (M20 x 1.25)
Screw retaining drive shaft to crankshaft (*) (M14 x 1.5 left)
Screw, timing gears
(M10x 1.25)
(M12x 1.25)
Belt tensioner retaining bolt
(M8)
(M10x 1.25)
Fixed belt tensioner retaining screw (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining auxiliary component driven gear (oil pump) (M10 x 1.25)
Nut for camshaft cap retaining stud (M8)
Nut retaining camshaft and air vacuum pump end mounts (M8)
Combustion prechamber retaining ring (M32 x 1.5)
Nut, injection pump stud (M8)
Screw, injection pump (M8)
Nut fastening flexible block to coolant pump case (M12 x 1.25)
Nut, injection pump gear (M12 x 1.75)
Screw retaining reaction bracket to oil filter support and injection pump (M8).
Top retaining screw or nut, oil filter support and injection pump (M12 x 1.25)
Lower retaining screw, oil filter support and injection pump (M10 x 1.25)
Complete injector (M24 x 2)
Glow plugs (M12 x 1.25)
Nuts retaining fuel delivery line to injection pump and injector (M12 x 1.25)...
Bolt, coolant pump to engine block (M8 x 1)
Bolt retaining cover and bracket to coolant pump case (M8)
Oil pressure switch (M14 x 1.5)
Coolant temperature sender unit
(M16 x 1.5 tapered)
(M18x 1.5 tapered)
Coolant temperature thermal switch (M16 x 1.5 tapered)
(*) The bolt need not be greased.
A B C D E Torque (Nm)
• • 80
• • • 113
• • • 113
• • 40
+
90 degrees
+ 90 deqrees
• • • 100
+
90 degrees
+ 90 deqrees
• • 28
• • 51
• • • 25 + 50 deqrees
• •
• • •
25
20
• • 50
25
• 10
• •
• • •
28
25
• •
• • •
83
142
• • 25
• • • 28
• • 155
• • • 190
• •
• • •
83
118
• •
• • •
25
44
• • • 44
• • 83
• • • 19
• • • 19
• • • 118
• • • 25
• • • 25
• • 80
• • • 49
• • • 29
• • • 98
• • • 71
• • • 55
• • • 15
• • • 29
• • • 25
• • • 23
32
• •
• • • 34
30
• • 30
expert22 fl/i* http://rutracker.org 23

8D. To prevent the rubber sealing
ring on the new filter from
buckling or twisting out of shape
while tightening, smear it with
clean oil.
8E. Screw the new filter onto the
stub by hand. When the rubber
sealing ring contacts its seat,
continue to turn the
filter a further 3/4
of a turn, by hand
only. Over-tight-
ening the filter
makes it difficult to
remove at the next
oil change and can
buckle the seal,
causing a leak.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: It isn't necessary to use
excessive force when refitting the sump plug. Simply grip
the spanner (no need for an extension, now!) so that the
thumb rests on the spanner head, limiting the amount of
leverage that can be applied. Use firm pressure only.
Before refitting the plug, wipe around the drain hole
with a piece of clean cloth to remove any dirt. II
8F. Pour in the correct quantity of
Selenia engine oil (see Chapter
3, Facts and Figures) and check
the level against the dipstick.
Note that the empty oil filter will
cause the level to drop slightly
when the engine is started and
the oil flows into it. Before using
the car, run the engine for two
minutes, turn off, leave to stand
for a few minutes and then
recheck and correct the oil level.
• Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation.
10B. H INSIDE
INFORMATION: If
the gasket sticks
-

which it
frequently does -
DON'T lever the
Q Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances.
The valve gear clearances need to be checked at the appro-
priate intervals, when the engine is cold.
ALL PETROL AND DIESEL ENGINES
10A. Remove the
air cleaner (where
necessary)
-
see Job
30 then remove the
bolts holding the
camshaft cover in
place. This is the
petrol engine with
air filter removed...
cover or your
could or you could
easily damage it.
Use a spatula to push through the soft joint until the
gasket/cover comes free. D
10C. E3 INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The oil level inside
the housing is
above the level of
the bottom of the
cover plate on
these engines.
Try: i) raising the
front of the car as
high as safely possible, so that oil drains out of the back
of the housing; ii) stuffing cloths beneath the opening
and have more ready, for mopping up; iii) being ready to
clean off the front of the engine with degreaser, when
the job is finished. D
10D. The valve
clearance is
measured directly
beneath the cam
and must be
checked when the
high point of the
cam (arrowed) is
pointing directly
upwards and away
9. Check the
condition of the
breather hose from
the valve cover or
cam cover to the air
cleaner. If the pipe
has become
blocked or
damaged, replace
it, transferring the
flame trap from inside the old pipe to the new one. On some
models, you will have to remove the air filter housing to get at
the crankcase ventilation pipe beneath. Note this type of
spring clip
-
use pliers to slacken-off when removing or re-
fitting.
Try different feeler gauge thicknesses until you find one that's
a tight sliding fit between cam and follower. Make a written
note of each clearance starting with number
1
at the timing
belt end of the engine.
from the cam follower.

14C. Also open
the drain plug or
tap (B) at the
centre of the rear
flank of the
engine block on
both petrol and
diesel engines. Drain the coolant into a container. On models
with a separate expansion tank, detach the hose from the
expansion tank and drain the tank.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: From time to time it's a good
idea to flush the cooling system. With the bottom hose
re-connected, disconnect and remove the top hose from
the radiator. Insert the end of a garden hose first into
the hose (packing the gap with a rag) and then the
radiator inlet, flushing the system in both directions until
the water comes out clear. Q
IMPORTANT NOTE: Flush first with the heater control
turned OFF until the engine and radiator are clear, so
that you don't flush sediment into the heater. Then with
the heater turned ON, flush the heater system out.
14D. To prevent air-locks
forming in the cooling
system as it is refilled (all
hoses and the drain plug
reconnected, of course!),
most models have two
air-bleed screws strategi-
cally positioned in the
system. These should be
opened before refilling.
The first (B or C) is
located on the right-
hand side of the radiator
(type dependant on
version)...
PART C: TRANSMISSION
• Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level.
The combined oil level and filler plug is on the forward-facing
side of the gearbox. Check the level with the car on level
ground.
15. From beneath the car, wipe
around the filler plug with a rag
to prevent dirt contamination.
Remove the plug
-
using a 10
mm Allen key
-
and top-up if
necessary, using the specified
Tutela transmission oil (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures), until oil just dribbles
from the filler hole. Refit the
plug.
14E.... and the
second (D)
-

when fitted
-
is
found on the
heater hose near
the top of the
engine. Only
undo the screws
by two or three
turns. Retighten both screws when air-free coolant emerges.
This is the petrol engine...
14F. ...and this
the diesel engine
location.
H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
It seems that
latest Tipos and
Tempras were
built without some or all bleed screws. Ryauto
recommend removing the highest point of the top hose,
refilling with coolant, while an assistant refits the hose
smartly, losing as little coolant as possible. D
Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of clean water
and fresh Paraflu anti-freeze. Tighten the bleed screws (or
hose) when coolant, and not air, comes out steadily. Run the
engine for a few minutes and bleed again.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is highly likely that more air will be
dislodged when you first use the car. Keep your eye on
the coolant level (See Job 2)
-
perhaps carrying some
50/50 diluted coolant with you for the first few journeys.
• Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil.
16. The combined
gearbox and final
drive oil should be
drained at the time
shown in the
Service Interval
Chart. Do so only
after the car has
been used and the
gearbox oil is warm, so that it flows well. Remove the drain
plug (on the end-face of the gearbox, accessed from beneath
the car
-
not much room to get a spanner in!) and drain the
oil into a container. (See page 8 on oil disposal.) Leave for 10
minutes to drain completely, and refill with the correct grade
of Tutela transmission oil through the level/filler plug, as
described in Job 15.

J Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs. Q Job 23. Change spark plugs.
GENERAL. On all Tipo and Tempra petrol engines the spark

plugs
face forwards, allowing easy working access.
Carefully remove the
spark plug caps, being
careful to pull only on

the cap and
not the HT
lead. If you can't be

sure
to remember which

HT lead
belongs to
which spark plug,
number them from one

end
of the engine to the
other.
22B. If the electrodes of the
plugs look rounded and worn,

replace
the plugs. See page

154
for details of 'Reading
Your Spark Plugs. Nip' the

cap
tight with pliers, so that it
can't come loose.
Spark plugs 'tire' and lose efficiency over a period of time,
even if they look okay. See Job 22 for information on their
removal and replacement. Use good quality Champion or FIAT
plugs of the correct specification.
• Job 24. Check/dean HT leads and distributor
cap.
See SAFETY FIRST! at the start of this section and
Chapter 1, Safety First!
IMPORTANT NOTE: On latest models, there is no conven-
tional distributor and, for those cars, none of the
following should be attempted. Illustration to Job 28C
illustrates the type which should NOT be worked on
except for wiping off the outer surface, with the engine
not running.
Remove each plug lead from the spark plugs, pulling only on
the plug caps, not on the HT cables. Also, remove the large HT
lead from the coil and take off the distributor cap, either by
popping off its spring retainers if the distributor is on the side
of the engine (front of engine bay
-
see illustration 25A) or by
undoing the two retaining screws.
24A. On later
cars (Digiplex
ignition -
distributor
mounted
horizontally on
end of cylinder
head) unclip and
remove the
22A. Unscrew the plug

using
the correct type of
spark plug socket. Take

care
to keep the
spanner strictly in line
with the plug so as not to
crack the electrode.

22C.
it
is
essential

that the
plug is

gapped
correctly.

See Chapter 3,
Facts
and Figures.

Use a
feeler blade

of the
correct
thickness, sliding it

between
the
electrodes. It should

be a firm
sliding fit.

Use a
gapping tool

or
carefully wielded pliers to bend the curved electrode

towards
or away from the centre electrode. Take GREAT CARE

not to
damage the insulator near the tip of the plug.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The spark plugs screw into
aluminium, which is easily damaged if the spark plugs do

not
engage their threads properly. Screw in the plugs by
hand initially
-
by, say, two or three turns
-
before using
the plug spanner. A light smear of copper grease on the

plug
threads will enable them to turn more freely and

also
make them easier to remove next time. Finally,
don't over-tighten the plugs
-
firm hand-pressure on the
spanner is sufficient. D
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT
spray water dispellant or
apply lubricant to any part
of an electronic ignition
distributor. (It's okay to
clean the cap, as described,
however.)
shroud. Clean the
cap and cables of
either type with a clean rag, applying a little aerosol water-
dispellant spray to help shift oil and grime.
24B. Check each of the HT posts (a) inside the cap for burning
or damage, and the central carbon brush (b) to ensure that it's
not worn down and that the
spring loading is okay. Clean
the dust cover (c) and rotor
arm, and check the tip (d) for
burning.

• Job 25. Check ignition timing.
_ FACT FILE: IGNITION SYSTEM TYPES
Two different types of electronic ignition
systems have been fitted to the petrol
engines covered by this manual.
The earlier Breakerless Inductive Discharge System can
be adjusted. Its distributor is fitted as shown in illus-
tration 25A.
The later, Digiplex 2 system, has an integrated ignition
and fuel injection control system and any checks and
adjustments will need to be carried out by your FIAT
dealership with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
See Job 28.
MAGNETI MARELLI BREAKERLESS INDUCTIVE
DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
CHECK VACUUM AND MECHANICAL ADVANCE SYSTEMS
25A. This is the
location of the break-
erless electronic
ignition components in
the car. The distributor
(1) is fitted to the front
of the block while the
ignition coil
(2)
is
alongside the battery.
25B. This type of distributor can be
identified by the electronic ignition
control module (a) and the vacuum
advance unit (b), not fitted to other
ignition types.
• the engine must be at
ature.
• the idle speed/mixture/CO adjustments must be correct

-
see Job 35.
• Start the engine and run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Point the timing light at the crankshaft pulley timing mark
and ensure that the mark lines up with the 10 degrees Before
Top Dead Centre (BTDC) mark on the timing belt cover.
• If the reading is 'out' stop the engine and slacken the clamp
nut on the distributor so that the distributor can just be turned
with firm hand pressure.
• Turn the distributor a very small amount, restart the engine
and check again.
• Repeat the procedure until, with the engine running, the
crankshaft pulley timing mark lines up with the 10 degree
BTDC mark. Then tighten the nut securing the distributor to
the engine block.
You can now check the vacuum advance system as follows:
• increase the engine speed to approximately 2,000 rpm and,
with the timing light pointed at the timing marks, make a
mental note of the position of the mark on the crankshaft
pulley in relation to the timing belt cover. If the position is no
further advanced than 10 degrees BTDC, the mechanical
advance system inside the distributor is probably seized.
• stop the engine, reconnect the vacuum advance pipe and
repeat the procedure.
• you should see a further amount of advance taking place
and if not, the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance
mechanism is probably punctured.
• if either or both of these faults have occurred, your engine
will run uneconomical^ and inefficiently and it may pay you to
fit a new distributor.
MAGNETI MARELLI DIGIPLEX 2 ELECTRONIC
IGNITION
25D. This is the layout of the Digiplex ignition system, viewed
from over the engine looking towards the left-side of the car.
The ignition coil (1) is adjacent to the battery. The electronic
control unit (2) is nearer to the engine bay sidewall. The
distributor (3) is mounted on the end of the cylinder head and
the rpm and Top Dead Centre (TDC) sensor (4) is located on
the crankshaft cover on the flywheel side.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before
checking the ignition timing,
you must be certain that:
• the pipe from the distributor
vacuum unit is disconnected
from the distributor and plugged.
its normal operating temper-
instructions. The
timing light should
always be connected
to No.
1
spark plug
lead
-
the one nearest
the timing belt end of
the engine.
48
25C. To check the ignition timing, connect up a stroboscopic
lamp, either as shown on the inset or in accordance with the
manufacturer's

G Step 17: Now repeat this operation on the remaining
valves.
G Step 18: Wash the whole cylinder head again using
paraffin and an old brush, making sure that all traces of
grinding paste are removed, then dry off. Use compressed air

if
available.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
Treat
compressed air with respect. Always wear

goggles
to protect your eyes.
•
Never
allow the airline nozzle near any of the body Sep apertures.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! Check the height of the valve
springs against new ones if possible, but if not, compare
them with each other. If any are shorter than the others,
play safe and replace the complete set. They are bound
to have suffered fatigue which could cause premature
valve failure. H
G Step 19: To install the valves, start from one end.
Lubricate a valve stem with fresh engine oil and slide it in to its
guide.
G Step 20: Locate a new valve stem seal over the stem of

the valve
(if applicable) and push down into contact with the
guide. Position the seal on its seat using a suitable metal tube.
G Step 21: Refit the flat washer and spring seat.
G Step 22: Position the inner and outer springs and the

spring
cap.
G Step 23: Re-apply the valve spring compressor and

compress
the springs enough to allow you to engage the split
collets
in
the stem grooves.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! Grease the grooves so that the
collets will 'stick' in place. The collets are easily fitted by
'sticking' the backs of them onto the end of a screw-
driver with some grease and feeding them into
position. B
G Step 24: Carefully release the spring compressor and

check
that the collets are correctly located. Tap the end of the

stem with
a hammer, to bed them in.
G Step 25: Fit the remaining valves.
Job 5. Petrol engine -
dismantling.
G Step 1: Familiarise yourself with the layout of the engine.

Refer to
illustration Job
2-1
for an exploded view of the

engine
components.
G Step 2: Drain the engine oil. Remove the cylinder head.
See
Job 2.

G Step 3: Remove the distributor. See PART D: IGNITION
• Step 4:
Remove the petrol
pump and spacer
block, if the
mechanical type
(a). (Electric fuel
pumps are in the
fuel tank.)
• Step 5:
Remove and
discard the oil filter
illustration Job
5-4,

• Step 6: Remove the water pump complete with its distri-
bution pipe, and the power steering pump (if fitted).
Q Step 7: Remove the alternator, the crankshaft pulley, the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, the cam belt tensioner
and the cam belt cover backplate.
• Step 8:
Remove the
auxiliary shaft
sprocket...
• Step 9: ...the
end plate and
seal, and remove
the auxiliary shaft.
• Step 10:
Undo and remove
the clutch, and
then the flywheel.
• Step 11: Turr
engine assembly c
remove the sump
and remove the crankcase breather (see
part b) with its pipe.

Job 8. Petrol engine/transmission
- removal.
IMPORTANT NOTE: See PARTB: TRANSMISSION for
gearbox removal by itself.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The complete engine/trans-
mission unit is removed and replaced from under the car
- and this applies to all types. Make sure you can raise
the front of the car high enough (and support it safely
and securely!) to allow the power unit to be pulled clear
from underneath, before starting work! 13
• Step 1: Remove the bonnet
-
see PARTI: BODY AND
INTERIOR, Job 1.
• Step 5:
Disconnect the
carburettor or
injector fuel lines,
choke and throttle
cables and hoses and
electrical connections
(arrowed).
Q Step 6: Disconnect the starter motor cables, HT leads,
fuel pump lines, sensors and electrical connectors arrowed.
Job
8-7

• Step 2: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
• Step 3: Drain the cooling system and the engine oil.
Disconnect all hoses shown.
• Step 7: Disconnect the clutch cable (3) or clutch slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, the earth cable (2) and the reversing
lights switch cable
(1)
from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 8: Disconnect the alternator cables.
Q Step 9: Slacken the front wheel bolts, raise the car and
support securely on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
• Step 10: Drain
the gearbox oil.
• Step 4:
Remove the air
filter-to-engine
connections
-

earlier type illus-
trated. (There are
some hose
connections
underneath on
the later type,
mounted on top
of the engine.) Disconnect the electrical connection and all
other hoses from the filter housing.
• Step 11:
Remove the buttons
(gearbox side,
arrowed) fixing the
dust shield to the
wheel arch on each
side.