ECU FIAT UNO 1983 Service Owner's Manual

their originally fitted sequence and note in
which direction the seal lips are located.
11Inspect the surfaces of the piston and
cylinder bore. If scoring, corrosion or
metal-to-metal rubbing areas are evident,
renew the master cylinder complete.
12If the components are in good condition,
discard the oil seals and manipulate the new
ones into position, using the fingers only.
13Refit by reversing the removal operations;
apply pressure to the piston ends so that the
stop bolts can be fitted, then tighten the end
plug. Make sure that the grooves in the
pistons engage in the stop bolts.
14Before refitting the master cylinder to the
servo, measure the projection of the servo
piston pushrod. When the master cylinder is
fitted, there must be a clearance (see A in
Fig. 8.7) between the end of the pushrod and
the primary piston end face of between 0.825
and 1.025 mm (0.03 and 0.04 in). A depth
gauge will be required for these
measurements, the reference point being the
mating surfaces of the master cylinder and the
vacuum servo.
15Alter the adjusting screw on the servo as
necessary and lock it by applying locking fluid
to the threads on completion.16Bolt the master cylinder to the vacuum
servo or bulkhead, then reconnect the
pipelines and reservoir cap leads.
17Bleed the complete hydraulic system, as
described in Section 12.
10 Pressure regulating valve
3
1The pressure regulating valve is a load
proportioning valve which restricts the
hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes
according to car weight during heavy
applications of the brake pedal. This prevents
the rear wheels locking.
2A faulty or non-operational valve should be
renewed complete, no repair being possible.
3To remove the valve, unscrew the pipe
unions and disconnect the hydraulic pipes
from the valve. Cap the ends of the pipes to
prevent loss of fluid.
4Unbolt the valve mounting bracket,
withdraw it and disconnect the tension spring
(photo).
5Refit the new valve and then adjust it in the
following way.
6Have the car standing on a level floor.
7The car should be normally loaded (kerb
weight) with fuel, oil, spare wheel etc. Load
the luggage compartment immediately behind
the seat back with:
65 kg (143 lbs) on three-door models or 55 kg (121 lbs) on five-door models
8Refer to Fig. 8.10 and slacken the valve
bracket securing bolt (1).
9Attach a 6.0 kg (13.2 lb) weight to the
bracket eye (2) as shown and then tighten the
bracket securing bolt.
10Bleed the braking system if a new valve
has been fitted. Bleeding will not of course be
required if only adjustment has been carried
out to an existing valve.11 Hydraulic hoses and pipes-
inspection and renewal
3
Flexible hoses
1Periodically, all brake pipes, pipe
connections and unions should be completely
and carefully examined.
2First examine for signs of leakage where the
pipe unions occur. Then examine the flexible
hoses for signs of chafing and fraying and, of
course, leakage. This is only a preliminary part
of the flexible hose inspection, as exterior
condition does not necessarily indicate the
interior condition, which will be considered
later.
3Flexible hoses are always mounted at both
ends in a rigid bracket attached to the body or
a sub-assembly. To remove them, it is
necessary first of all to unscrew the pipe
unions of the rigid pipes which go into them.
8•6 Braking system
Fig. 8.11 Typical hydraulic hose connection
(Sec 11)
Fig. 8.10 Weight attachment point for
pressure regulating valve adjustment (Sec 10)
1 Fixing bolt 2 Bracket eye
Fig. 8.9 Components of the pressure
regulating valve (Sec 10)
Fig. 8.8 Pressure regulating valve (Sec 10)10.4 Pressure regulating valve bracket and
tension spring

1 General description
The electrical system is of 12 volt negative
earth type and employs a belt-driven
alternator and a pre-engaged type starter
motor.
The models in the range are all adequately
equipped with electrical accessories, while SX
versions also have power windows and
centralised door locking plus a check control
system (Section 34).
2 Battery- inspection, charging,
removal and refitting
2
1The battery is of maintenance-free type and
under normal circumstances, no topping up
will be required, but regularly check that the
electrolyte level is between the minimum and
maximum lines on the translucent battery
casing.
2If the electrolyte level does drop below theminimum line, suspect a leak in the battery
casing or that the alternator is overcharging. If
the latter is the case, rectify the alternator fault
and then prise out the two rectangular plugs
from the top of the battery and top up with
distilled or purified water.
3Always keep the battery terminals clean
and smear them with petroleum jelly to
prevent corrosion.
4The battery will normally be kept fully
charged by the alternator, but it is possible for
the battery to become discharged if the daily
mileage is very low with much use being
made of the starter and electrical accessories.
5When the battery begins to deteriorate with
age it may also require a boost from a mains
charger.
6Disconnect both battery leads before
connecting the mains charger. 7To remove the battery from the car, first
disconnect the leads from the battery
terminals (earth first) and then unscrew the
securing clamp from the casing projection at
the base of the casing (photo).
8Lift the battery from its mounting platform.
Refitting is a reversal of removal. Reconnect
the earth cable last.
Fuses
Circuit protected Fuse rating (A)
1 Stop lamps, direction indicator lamps, instrument panel warning
lamps, tachometer economy gauge, check control system . . . . . . 10
2 Windscreen wiper and washer, rear screen wiper/washer, check
system panel illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
3 Left front parking, right rear tail lamp, cigar lighter illumination,
heater control and clock, digital clock illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
4 Right front parking lamp and left rear tail lamp, instrument panel
illumination and rear number plate lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
5 Left-hand dipped headlamp, rear foglamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
6 Right-hand dipped headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7 Left-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
8 Right-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
9 Engine cooling fan and horn (Comfort) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
10 Heater booster fan, digital clock map reading lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
11 Heated tailgate glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
12 Courtesy lamps, cigar lighter, radio power feed, disc pad
sensors, economy gauge (ES models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
13 Hazard warning lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
14 Spare (Comfort), Horn (Super) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
BulbsWattage
Headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40/45 or Halogen H4 60/55
Front parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Side repeater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Stop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Reversing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear foglamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Direction indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear number plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Courtesy lamp (roof) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Courtesy lamp (pillar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Warning and indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wedge base
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Alternator mounting and adjustment nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 87
Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35
9•2 Electrical system
2.7 Battery clamp
If battery terminal corrosion
has occurred, it may be
neutralised by applying
sodium bicarbonate or
household ammonia.

3 Alternator-
maintenance and precautions
1
To avoid damage to the alternator, the
following precautions should be observed.
1Disconnect the leads from the battery
before connecting a mains charger to the
battery terminals.
2Never stop the engine by pulling off one of
the battery leads.
3Disconnect the battery if electric welding is
to be carried out on the vehicle.
4If using booster cables from another battery
to start the car, make sure that they are
connected positive to positive and negative to
negative.
5Maintenance consists of keeping the
outside of the alternator clean, the electrical
connections secure and the drivebelt correctly
tensioned, see Chapter 2, Section 8.
4 Alternator-
removal and refitting
1
Note: Depending on the model, access to the
alternator from above may be poor in which
case it will be necessary to work from the
underside of the vehicle, through the
right-hand wheel arch (after removing the
roadwheel and the lower undershield). Refer
to Chapter 13 for details.
1Disconnect the leads from the rear of the
alternator.2Release the mounting and adjuster link nuts
and push the alternator as far as it will go in
towards the engine (photos).
3Slip the drivebelt from the pulley.
4Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts
and lift the alternator from the brackets on the
engine. Remove downwards on 1116 cc and
1301 cc models.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tension
the drivebelt as described in Chapter 2,
Section 8.
5 Alternator- overhaul
3
1Overhaul of the alternator should be limited
to renewal of the brushes. If the unit has
covered a high mileage, it will be found moreeconomical to exchange it for a new or
factory-reconditioned one, rather than renew
worn components on the original unit.
Brush renewal
(Marelli alternator)
2Unscrew the nuts and take off the rear cover.
3Unscrew the two small bolts and withdraw
the brush holder (photos).
4Fit the new brush holder which is supplied
complete with brushes, by reversing the
removal operations.
Brush renewal
(Bosch alternator)
5Where applicable, remove the radio
suppression condenser (capacitor) from the
rear end frame (one screw and washer, and a
plug-in connection).
6Undo the two screws which retain the brush
holder to the rear frame of the alternator, then
Electrical system 9•3
5.3A Alternator brush holder bolt4.2B Alternator adjuster bolt4.2A Alternator mounting
Fig. 9.1 Exploded view of typical alternator (Sec 5)
1 Pulley
2 Fan
3 Bolts
4 Washers
5 Drive-end bracket
6 Stator windings
7 Plate screw
8 Diode plate
(rectifier pack)9 Body
10 Brush
11 Spring
12 Brush holder
13 Condenser
14 Screws and
washers
15 Screws and
washers16 Screws and
washers
17 Plug socket
18 Suppressor
19 Shaft nut
20 Spring washer
21 Thrust ring
22 Bearing
23 Retainer plate24 Thrust ring
25 Spring washer
26 Screw and washer
27 Key
28 Rotor
29 Bearing
30 Backing washer
31 Shield (where
applicable)
5.3B Removing alternator brush holder
9

8Withdraw the solenoid and yoke off the
armature and from the drive end bracket.
Note the steel and fibre washers and the
shims on the armature shaft (photo).
9Extract the split pin and tap out the
engagement lever pivot pin.
10Pull the rubber packing piece from the
drive end bracket.
11Withdraw the armature with solenoid
plunger, coil spring and engagement lever.
12Clean the commutator with a fuel soaked
rag or very fine glass paper. Do not undercut
the mica insulators on the commutator.
Drive
13To remove the drive assembly from the
armature shaft, use a piece of tubing to tap
the stop collar down the shaft to expose the
snap ring. Remove the snap ring and stop
collar and slide the drive assembly from the
shaft.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new snap ring to secure the drive to the
armature shaft.
10 Fuses and relays
1
1The fuse box is located under the left-hand
side of the facia panel and is held in place by
two hand screws (photo).2The fuses and the circuits protected are
identified by symbols. Refer also to Specifi-
cations.
3If a fuse blows, always renew it with one of
identical rating. If the new fuse blows
immediately, find the cause before renewing
the fuse for the second time. This is usually
due to defective wiring insulation causing a
short circuit.
4Never substitute a piece of wire or other
makeshift device for a proper fuse.
5Various relays are plugged into the fuse
block and include those for the heated rear
screen, heater and horns.
6On cars fitted with power-operated front
windows and centralised door locking, the
fuses and relays for these circuits are
mounted separately under the right-hand side
of the facia panel.
7The relay (flasher unit) for the direction
indicators and hazard warning lamps is
located on the lower part of the
steering column combination switch and
is accessible after removing the column
shroud.
11 Steering column
combination switch
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering column shrouds. 3The switch can be removed without
having to take off the steering wheel, but for
clarity, the photographs show the wheel
removed.
4Unscrew the switch clamp nuts, disconnect
the wiring plug and remove the switch from
the steering column (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the activating projections on the
steering wheel hub engage correctly with the
switches.
12 Courtesy lamp switch
1
1These are located in and secured to the
body pillars with a single screw (photo).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Extract the switch screw and withdraw the
switch.
4If the leads are to be disconnected, tape
them to the pillar to prevent them from
slipping inside.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply
petroleum jelly to the switch contacts to
prevent corrosion.
13 Rocker and push-button
switches
1
1These are mounted in panels on each side
of the instrument panel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Prise off the instrument panel hood cover.
This is held in place by clips. The careful use
of a screwdriver will assist in releasing them
(see Section 21).
4Extract the switch panel fixing screws.
These compress spring clips which in turn
secure the switch panel (photo).
5Withdraw the switch panel until the wiring
plugs can be disconnected. Record the
location of the plugs before disconnecting
Electrical system 9•5
11.4 Unscrewing steering column switch
clamp nut
1 Direction indicator flasher unit (relay)10.1 Fuse block (later models)
1 Horn relay
2 Heated tailgate window relay9.8 Starter motor dismantled
13.4 Switch panel screw12.1 Courtesy lamp switch
9

them. Carefully release the fibre optic
filaments (photos).
6A push-button switch can be removed by
compressing its retaining tabs and pushing it
from the panel.
7A rocker switch can be removed if its knob
is pulled off and the switch sections
withdrawn from the panel.
8Reassembly and refitting of both types of
switches are reversals of removal and
dismantling.
14 Tailgate contacts
1
1Contact blocks are used to transmit power
to the heated tailgate window and to the wiper
motor.
2The block on the tailgate or the body may
be released by prising their ends with a
screwdriver (photos).
15 Horns
1
1These are mounted close to the
engine/transmission left-hand mounting
below the radiator.
2Apart from keeping the connecting leads
secure, no maintenance or adjustment is
required.
16 Headlamp bulb- renewal
1
1Open the bonnet and pull off the plug and
the rubber cover from the rear of the
headlamp (photo).
2Prise back the spring bulbholder clips and
withdraw the combined bulb and holder
(photos).
3Refit the new bulb. Avoid fingering it if it is
of halogen type. Should the fingers touch the
bulb, wipe it with a rag soaked in methylated
spirit to remove any residual grease.
4Turn the bulbholder until the pip on its
flange engages in the cut-out in the rim of the
reflector.
5Snap back the spring retaining clips, refit
the rubber cover and reconnect the plug.
17 Headlamp beam- alignment
2
1It is recommended that the headlamp
beams are aligned by your dealer or a service
station having optical setting equipment.
2Where an owner wishes to do the job
himself, proceed in the following way.
3Have the car standing on a level floor with
9•6 Electrical system
Fig. 9.3 Headlamp beam adjustment
screws (Sec 17)
A Vertical B Horizontal
16.2B Headlamp halogen type bulb16.2A Headlamp bulbholder spring
clips
14.2B Body contact block
16.1 Headlamp plug and rubber
cover
14.2A Tailgate contact block13.5B Switch panel fibre optic13.5A Withdrawing switch panel

20 Interior lamps-
bulb renewal
1
Courtesy lamp
1The lamp lenses, whether roof or pillar
mounted, are removed by prising off using a
screwdriver inserted under one end (photo).
2The festoon type bulb is pulled from its
spring contacts.
Instrument panel lamps
3Remove the instrument panel hood cover
as described in the next Section. The panel
lighting bulbs may be renewed without further
dismantling, but access to the warning and
indicator bulbs can only be obtained if the
instrument panel is partially withdrawn as
described in the next Section (photo). 4Pull out the appropriate bulbholder and
withdraw the wedge base type bulb.
5Fit the new bulb, the holder, instrument
panel and hood cover.
21 Instrument panel-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument panel hood cover.
The easiest way to do this is to insert the
fingers at the sides, and pull the hood sharply
upwards off its retaining clips.
3Extract the two fixing screws from the
instrument panel and pull it towards you until the
speedometer drive cable can be disconnected
by squeezing its plastic retaining ring (photo).
4Disconnect the wiring plugs and record
their exact locations. 5Remove the instrument panel upwards
(photo).
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
22 Instrument panel-
dismantling
1
1With the instrument panel removed from
the car, individual instruments may be
removed in the following way.
2Pull off the speedometer trip device knob.
3Remove the instrument hood cover by
gently releasing the plastic clips (Fig. 9.4).
4The speedometer is secured by two screws
for its metal casing and one screw for its
plastic casing. Other instruments are held to
the panel by nuts (photo).
5On models equipped with a check control
system (see Section 34), the speedometer
cannot be removed until the control unit has
first been withdrawn.
6On ES versions, the speedometer cannot
be removed until the economy gauge control
unit has been removed.
23 Speedometer drive cable-
renewal
1
1Remove the instrument panel hood cover
as described in Section 21.
2Disconnect the speedometer cable from
the speedometer by squeezing the plastic
retaining ring (photo).
9•8 Electrical system
23.2 Speedometer cable connector at
head22.4 Rear view of instrument panel21.5 Instrument panel and steering wheel
removed
21.3 Removing instrument panel screw21.2 Removing instrument panel hood
cover
Fig. 9.4 Instrument hood cover (1) (Sec 21)20.3 Instrument panel warning lamp20.1 Interior roof lamp withdrawn

3The centralised door locking system can
operate independently of the key.
4To gain access to the lock solenoid and
linkage, remove the front door trim panel as
described in Chapter 12.
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6Disconnect the electrical wiring plugs from
the solenoid within the door cavity.
7Disconnect the solenoid from the lock lever
by removing the clip.
8Unscrew the two bolts which secure the
solenoid to the door and remove it.
9Renew the solenoid or switch as necessary.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11Refer to Section 10 for details of system
fuses and relays.
33 Economy gauge
(Econometer)
2
1This device is fitted to ES (energy saving)
models and indicates to the driver the fuel
consumption (in litres per 100 km) coupled
with a needle which moves over coloured
sections of a dial to make the driver aware
that his method of driving is either conducive
to high or low fuel consumption. Refer to
Chapter 3, Section 16.
2The device is essentially a vacuum gauge
which also incorporates a warning lamp to
indicate to the driver when a change of gear is
required.
3A fuel cut-out valve (see Chapter 3, Sec-
tion 11) is used in conjunction with the
economy gauge so that when the accelerator
pedal is released during a pre-determined
engine speed range, fuel supply to the engine
is stopped, but resumes when the engine
speed falls below the specified range.
LED (light emitter diode)
4The gearchange indicator will only light up
at engine speeds in excess of 2000 rev/min
for vacuum pressures up to 600 mm Hg in 1st,
2nd and 3rd speed gears and for vacuum
pressures up to 676 mm Hg in 4th speedgear. The light will not come on if 5th speed
gear is engaged or if the coolant temperature
is below 55ºC.
5There is a two second delay in the light
coming on to prevent it operating during rapid
acceleration in a low gear.
6If the LED light comes on during
deceleration it should be ignored.
Fault finding
7A faulty economy gauge should be checked
in the following way.
8Refer to Section 21 and remove the
instrument panel.
9Disconnect the economy gauge L
connector and then connect a test lamp
between the BN cable contact and earth. If
the lamp comes on then the gauge supply
circuit is not open. If the lamp does not come
on, check all connections in the supply cable
which comes from the interconnecting unit of
the electrical system, also Fuse No 12.
10Now connect a voltmeter between the
white cable and earth. Check the voltage with
the engine not running, but the ignition
switched on. It should be between 0.7 and
0.9 volt. If the reading varies considerably
from that specified, check the connections
between the economy gauge and the fuel
cut-out device control unit. If the fault cannot
be rectified, renew the ignition control unit
(Digiplex system, see Chapter 4).
11Now check the closed throttle valve plate
switch by connecting a voltmeter between the
brown and BN cables of the L connector. With
the valve plate open, there should be no
reading, but with it open, voltage should be
indicated.
12Failure to conform as described will be
due to a faulty earth in the switch or a faulty
fuel cut-out device control unit.
13A further test of the throttle valve plate
switch may be carried out by disconnecting
the multi-plug from the fuel cut-out device
control unit.
14Connect a test lamp to contact 4 (positive
battery terminal). The lamp should come on,
when the engine is idling or the accelerator
released. If it does not, renew the throttle
valve plate switch.15Connect a tachometer to the brown/white
cable contact in the L connector and record
the engine speed with the engine running. If
no reading is obtained, renew the Digiplex
ignition control unit which must be faulty.
34 Check control (warning
module) system
2
1This is fitted into the instrument panel of
certain models to provide a means of
checking the operation of many electrical
circuits and other systems in the interest of
safety. Sensors are used where appropriate.
2The following components are not
monitored by the system, but have separate
warning lamps:
Handbrake “on”
Choke in use
Low engine oil pressure
Battery charge indicator
3The multi-functional electronic device
automatically checks the following functions
whether the engine is running or not:
Coolant level
Disc pad wear
Door closure
Engine oil level
Front parking lamps
Rear foglamps
Stop lamps
4The check information is stored by the
system monitor until the engine is started
when the display panel then indicates the
situation by means of the LEDs (light emitter
diodes) and the general lamp.
5If all functions are in order, the green panel
lamp will come on when the ignition key is
turned and will go out after two to three
seconds.
6If some functions are not in order, then the
red panel lamp will come on also the
appropriate LED.
Sensors - checking
7If a fault signal occurs which is
subsequently found to be incorrect, first
check the wiring connections between the
9•12 Electrical system
Fig. 9.15 Check system control panel (Sec 34)
A Parking lamps
B Coolant levelC Engine oil level
D Door closureE Brake fluid level
F Disc pad wearFig. 9.14 Location of control units (Sec 33)
A Digiplex ignition system control unit
B Fuel cut-out valve control unit

9•14 Electrical system
Fault finding - electrical system
No voltage at starter motor
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery defective internally
m mBattery terminals loose or earth lead not securely attached to body
m mLoose or broken connections in starter motor circuit
m mStarter motor switch or solenoid faulty
Voltage at starter motor - faulty motor
m
mStarter brushes badly worn, sticking, or brush wires loose
m mCommutator dirty, worn or burnt
m mStarter motor armature faulty
m mField coils earthed
Starter motor noisy or rough in engagement
m
mPinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn
m mStarter drive main spring broken
m mStarter motor retaining bolts loose
Alternator not charging*
m
mDrivebelt loose and slipping, or broken
m mBrushes worn, sticking, broken or dirty
m mBrush springs weak or broken
* If all appears to be well but the alternator is still not charging, take the
car to an automobile electrician for checking of the alternator
Ignition light fails to go out, battery runs flat in a
few days
m mDrivebelt loose and slipping, or broken
m mAlternator faulty
Battery will not hold charge for more than a few
days
m mBattery defective internally
m mElectrolyte level too low or electrolyte too weak due to leakage
m mPlate separators no longer fully effective
m mBattery plates severely sulphated
m mDrivebelt slipping
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded
m mAlternator not charging properly
m mShort in lighting circuit causing continual battery drain
Fuel gauge gives no reading
m
mFuel tank empty!
m mElectric cable between tank sender unit and gauge earthed or loose
m mFuel gauge case not earthed
m mFuel gauge supply cable interrupted
m mFuel gauge unit broken
Fuel gauge registers full all the time
m
mElectric cable between tank unit and gauge broken or disconnected
Horn operates all the time
m
mHorn push either earthed or stuck down
m mHorn cable to horn push earthed
Horn fails to operate
m
mBlown fuse
m mCable or cable connection loose, broken or disconnected
m mHorn has an internal fault
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory noise
m
mCable connections loose
m mHorn incorrectly adjusted
Lights do not come on
m
mIf engine not running, battery discharged
m mLight bulb filament burnt out or bulbs broken
m mWire connections loose, disconnected or broken
m mLight switch shorting or otherwise faulty
Lights come on but fade out
m
mIf engine not running, battery discharged
Lights give very poor illumination
m
mLamp glasses dirty
m mReflector tarnished or dirty
m mLamps badly out of adjustment
m mIncorrect bulb with too low wattage fitted
m mExisting bulbs old and badly discoloured
m mElectrical wiring too thin not allowing full current to pass
Lights work erratically, flashing on and off,
especially over bumps
m mBattery terminals or earth connections loose
m mLights not earthing properly
m mContacts in light switch faulty
Wiper motor fails to work
m
mBlown fuse
m mWire connections loose, disconnected or broken
m mBrushes badly worn
m mArmature worn or faulty
m mField coils faulty
Wiper motor works very slowly and takes
excessive current
m mCommutator dirty, greasy or burnt
m mDrive spindle binding or damaged
m mArmature bearings dry or unaligned
m mArmature badly worn or faulty
Wiper motor works slowly and takes little current
m
mBrushes badly worn
m mCommutator dirty, greasy or burnt
m mArmature badly worn or faulty
Wiper motor works but wiper blade remains static
m
mDrive spindle damaged or worn
m mWiper motor gearbox parts badly worn

2 Tie-rod end balljoint-
renewal
4
1Jack up the front of the car and remove the
roadwheel from the side on which the balljoint
is to be renewed.
2Unscrew the tie-rod balljoint taper pin nut
and, using a suitable extractor, separate the
tie-rod balljoint from the eye of the steering
arm (photo).
3Release the locknut on the tie-rod,
unscrewing it only just enough to be able to
unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod.
4With the tie-rod end removed, wire brush
the threads on the tie-rod without disturbing
the position of the locknut; apply grease to
the threads and screw on the new tie-rod end
until the locknut can be tightened by turning it
through the same amount of rotation it was
given when unscrewed.
5Reconnect the balljoint taper pin to the eye
of the steering arm and tighten the retaining nut
to the specified torque. Never grease the taper
pin or eye; the pin will otherwise turn when the
nut is tightened. If a taper pin is inclined to
rotate when a nut is being tightened, apply
pressure to the socket of the joint to force the
taper pin into closer contact with the tapered
hole in the eye. If a taper pin is pointing
downward, a strong lever can be used to apply
the extra pressure. Where the taper pin of a
balljoint points upward, a jack placed under the
joint socket will produce the desired result.
6Although the careful fitting of the new
tie-rod end will have approximatelymaintained the original front wheel alignment
of the car, manufacturing differences alone of
the new component make it essential to
check the setting, as described in Section 8
and to adjust if necessary.
3 Steering rack gaiter-
renewal
4
1If lubricant is found to be leaking from the
gaiters (at the ends of the housing), first check
that the gaiter clips are secure.
2If the lubricant is leaking from the gaiter
through a split, the gaiter can be removed in
the following way, without the necessity of
withdrawing the gear from the car.
3Remove the tie-rod end from the side
concerned, as described in the preceding
Section.
4Release the gaiter clips; draw the gaiter
from the rack housing and off the tie-rod.
5If the gaiter has only just split, road dirt is
unlikely to have entered and lubricant can be
wiped away. If it is severely grit contaminated,
the steering gear should be completely
removed, the original lubricant flushed out
and new lubricant pumped in.
6If the gear does not have to be removed
from the car, slide the new gaiter into position
and secure it with the inboard clip.
7The rack lubricant is molybdenum
disulphide type grease.
8When recharging the gaiter with this type of
lubricant, give full steering lock to the side
being replenished so that the extendedsection of the rack will take the grease into the
housing as it returns.
9Reconnect the tie-rod end to the tie-rod
and the eye of the steering arm. Provided the
locknut is tightened by only rotating it through
the same distance by which it was loosened,
the front wheel alignment (tracking) should not
have been unduly disturbed. Even so, check
the alignment as described in Section 8.
4 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Set the steering wheel and the front
roadwheels in the straight-ahead attitude.
Prise out the hub plate (photo).
3Unscrew and remove the steering wheel
securing nut, then pull the wheel from the
column shaft. If it is tight on its splines, tap it
upward at the wheel rim, using the palms of
the hands.
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process; make sure that the spokes of the
wheel are in the lower part of the wheel.
5Tighten the securing nut to the specified
torque.
5 Steering column- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
1Remove the steering wheel as previously
described.
2Extract the screws from the underside of
the steering column upper shroud and then lift
off the upper and lower shroud sections
(photo). Where applicable, detach and remove
the trim panel from the underside of the facia
on the driver’s side.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Disconnect the wiring plug for the steering
column combination switch.
5Unscrew the clamp nuts and pull the
combination switch off the end of the steering
shaft.
6Unscrew the column upper mounting
bracket bolts and lower the shaft/column tube
to rest on the seat (photo).
7Remove the pinch-bolt from the lower
universal joint coupling and remove the
shaft/column tube from the car.
Overhaul
8Remove the pinch-bolt from the upper
universal joint and disconnect the lower shaft.
9Grip the tube mounting flange in the jaws of
a vice and relieve the staking at the base of
the tube.
10Using a plastic or copper-faced hammer,
tap the shaft down out of the tube.
11The lower bush will be ejected while the
upper one should be prised out of the tube.
12Reassemble the upper shaft into the tube
by tapping new bushes into position.
10•2 Steering
5.6 Steering column upper mounting5.2 Removing steering column shrouds
4.2 Removing steering wheel hub plate2.2 Disconnecting a tie-rod end balljoint

1 General description
The front suspension is of independent
MacPherson strut type.
The rear suspension consists of a beam
axle with trailing arms, coil springs and double
acting gas-filled telescopic shock absorbers.
Operations covering the hubs, roadwheels
and tyres are described in Chapter 7.
2 Maintenance
4
1Periodically check the tightness of all
suspension nuts and bolts using a torque
wrench.
2At the intervals specified in “Routine
Maintenance” inspect all suspension rubber
bushes for deterioration or wear. Renew
where necessary.
3Check for wear in the track control arm to
hub carrier balljoint. Do this by raising the
roadwheel and prising the control arm down.
If the hub carrier is pulled outwards, any up
and down movement or slackness will
necessitate renewal of the track control arm,
although it may be possible to obtain a
balljoint repair kit from a motor factor.
4A defective strut or shock absorber can
usually be detected by the tendency of the car
to pitch badly when braking or cornering.
However the component can be tested more
thoroughly in the following way.
5Remove the strut and take off the coil
spring or withdraw the rear shock absorber as
described later in this Chapter.
6Grip the strut or shock absorber lower
mounting in the jaws of a vice and then fully
extend and contract the unit five or six times,
with the unit held in a vertical attitude. If there is
any lack of resistance, jerkiness or seizure, then
the unit will have to be renewed, no repair being
possible. It is recommended that struts orshock absorbers are renewed in pairs as axle
sets, in order to maintain similar suspension
characteristics on both sides of the car.
7Check for signs of hydraulic fluid leakage
from around the front strut spindle gland and
also the condition of the dust excluding boot.
Oil leakage will mean a new unit, a split boot
can be renewed after having withdrawn the
coil spring.
3 Front suspension strut-
removal and refitting
4
1Raise the front of the car, support it
securely and remove the roadwheel.2Release the brake hydraulic hose
from the strut by unscrewing the retaining clip
bolt.
3Unscrew and remove the two bolts from the
clamp at the bottom of the strut, push the hub
carrier down out of the clamp (photo).
4Open the bonnet. Unscrew and remove the
domed reinforcement cover. Then remove the
strut top mounting nuts from the turret. Do not
attempt to unscrew the centre spindle nut
(photos).
5Withdraw the strut downwards and out
from under the wing (photo).
6Coil spring clamps must now be fitted.
These are available from most motor stores or
can be hired (photo).
7Once the spring has been compressed to
11•2 Suspension
3.5 Withdrawing a front strut3.4B Strut upper mounting nuts
3.4A Strut reinforcement plate3.3 Strut clamp bolt
Fig. 11.1 Front suspension arrangement (Sec 1)Fig. 11.2 Rear suspension arrangement (Sec 1)