cooling FIAT UNO 1983 Service Service Manual

1 Electric fan
2 Radiator
3 Thermostat
4 Coolant supply hose (inlet
manifold to heater matrix)
5 Heater matrix6 Coolant return hose (heater
matrix to the manifold pipe)
7 Coolant pump
8 Coolant manifold pipe
9 Coolant supply hose (cylinder
block/crankcase to the
turbocharger)10 Coolant return hose
(turbocharger to the expansion
tank)
11 Coolant supply hose (expansion
tank to the manifold pipe)
12 Expansion tank13 Coolant return hose (radiator to
the manifold pipe)
14 Fan thermostatic switch
15 Coolant supply hose
(thermostat to the radiator)
16 Coolant return hose (radiator to
the expansion tank)
13•56 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.29 Cooling system circuit - 1372 cc ie engine (Sec 8C)
Fig. 13.30 Cooling system circuit - 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 8C)
1 Expansion tank
2 Radiator
3 Electric fan
4 Coolant supply hose (thermostat
to radiator)
5 Coolant manifold pipe
6 Coolant pump
7 Coolant supply hose (thermostat
to heater matrix)
8 Coolant return hose (heater
radiator to manifold pipe)
9 Heater matrix10 Coolant return hose (inlet manifold
to manifold pipe)
11 Coolant return hose (radiator to
manifold pipe)
12 Thermostat
13 Fan thermostatic switch

10Apply suitable sealant to the threads of
the drain plug, then refit and tighten the plug.
11Dispose of the drained coolant safely, or
keep it in a covered container if it is to be
re-used.
12If required, the system can be flushed
through as described in Section 2 of Chap-
ter 2.
13Before attempting to refill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses have been
reconnected, that the hoses and clips are in
good condition, and that the clips are tight.
Also ensure that the cylinder block drain plug
has been refitted and tightened. Note that an
antifreeze mixture must be used all year round
to prevent corrosion of the engine
components - refer to Section 3, Chapter 2.
14Open the bleed screw in the top of the
expansion tank (photo).
15Remove the expansion tank cap, and fill
the system by slowly pouring the coolant into
the expansion tank to prevent air locks from
forming.
16Top up the coolant until liquid free from air
bubbles emerges from the radiator bleed
screw orifice, then close the bleed screw.
17Continue topping up until the coolant
reaches the Maximum mark on the expansion
tank.
18Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then stop the
engine and allow it to cool. Normal operating
temperature is reached when the cooling fancuts into operation. Feel the radiator top hose
to ensure that it is hot. If cool, it indicates an
air lock in the system.
19Check for leaks, particularly around
disturbed components. Check the coolant
level in the expansion tank, and top up if
necessary. Note that the system must be cold
before an accurate level is indicated. There is
a risk of scalding if the expansion tank cap is
removed whilst the system is hot.
Radiator (and cooling fan)
- removal and refitting Á
20Disconnect the battery negative lead.
21Detach the wiring connectors from the
cooling fan and the fan switch located in the
radiator (photos).
22If preferred, the cooling fan unit can be
removed separately from the radiator, by
undoing the attachment bolts and carefully
withdrawing the unit upwards from the
vehicle. Take care not to damage the radiator
core as it is lifted clear (photo).
23Drain the cooling system as described
earlier in this part of the Section, but note that
it will not be necessary to remove the cylinder
block drain plug.
24Undo the retaining screws and remove
the front grille panel.
25Loosen off the retaining clips and detach
the upper coolant hose and the expansion
hose from the radiator.26Note their direction of fitting, then prise
free the radiator retaining clips. Carefully lift
the radiator from the car.
27Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that as the radiator is
lowered into position, it engages in the two
rubber location grommets.
28With the radiator (and cooling fan) refitted,
top up the cooling system as described earlier
in this Section (photo).
Thermostat -
removal and refitting Á
Note: A new thermostat cover gasket must be
used on refitting.
29Drain the cooling system as described
earlier in this Section, but note that there is no
need to drain the cylinder block.
30Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat cover (situated at the gearbox end
of the cylinder head).
31Unscrew the two thermostat cover
securing bolts, noting that the left-hand bolt
may also secure the HT lead bracket, and
remove the thermostat/cover assembly.
Recover the gasket (photo).
32If faulty, the thermostat must be renewed
complete with the housing as an assembly.
33If desired the thermostat can be tested as
described in Chapter 2.
34Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•57
8C.21B Cooling fan switch wiring
connector8C.21A Cooling fan and wiring connector8C.14 Bleed screw location on top of the
expansion tank (arrowed)
8C.31 Thermostat unit removal on the
1372 cc ie engine (distributor removed for
clarity)8C.28 Topping up the radiator coolant level
on the 1372 cc ie engine. Note orientation
of radiator retaining clip (arrowed)8C.22 Cooling fan to radiator securing bolt
13

35Clean the mating faces of the thermostat
cover and cylinder head, and use a new
gasket when refitting the cover.
36Refill the cooling system as described
earlier in this Section.
Coolant pump -
removal and refittingÁ
Note: A new coolant pump gasket must be
used on refitting. If the pump is found to be
worn it must be renewed as a complete unit as
dismantling and repair is not possible.
37Disconnect the battery negative lead.
38Drain the cooling system as described
earlier in this Section.
39Remove the coolant/alternator drivebelt
as described in the next sub-Section.
40Unscrew the four coolant pump securing
bolts, noting that two of the bolts also secure
the alternator adjuster bracket, and withdraw
the pump from the housing (photo). Recover
the gasket.
41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Use a new gasket between the pump and
the housing.
43Refit and tension the coolant
pump/alternator drivebelt as described in the
next sub-Section.
44On completion, refill the cooling system
as described earlier in this Section.
Coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt - checking,
renewal and tensioning
Á
45At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this manual (as applicable), the drivebelt
should be checked and if necessary
re-tensioned.
46Access to the drivebelt is made from the
underside of the car on the right-hand side.
Loosen off the front right-hand roadwheel
retaining bolts, then raise and support the car
on axle stands at the front. Remove the front
roadwheel on the right-hand side.
47Remove the underwing shield from the
right-hand wheel arch by drifting the
compression pins out from the retaining
clips. Prise free the clips and remove the
shield.
48Additional, though somewhat restricted,
access can be obtained from above by
removing the air cleaner unit on the non-Turbo
ie-engine (photo).
49Check the full length of the drivebelt for
cracks and deterioration. It will be necessary
to turn the engine in order to check the
portions of the drivebelt in contact with the
pulleys. If a drivebelt is unserviceable, renew it
as follows (photo).
50Loosen the alternator mounting and
adjuster nuts and bolts and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.51Slip the drivebelt from the alternator,
coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys.
52Fit the new drivebelt around the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the specified belt tension
is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
prevent damage. It is helpful to partially
tighten the adjuster nut before tensioning the
drivebelt (photo).
53When the specified tension has been
achieved, tighten the mounting and adjuster
nuts and bolts (photo).
PART D: HEATER UNIT- LATER
MODELS
Heater unit -
removal and refitting
Á
1The heater unit is removed complete with
the facia/control panel. Commence by
draining the cooling system as described
previously in this Section.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Refer to Section 15 of this Chapter for
details and remove the ashtray/cigar lighter
and the auxiliary control panel.
4Undo the upper screw retaining the heater
unit to the facia (see Fig. 13.31).
5Remove the radio from the central facia.
6Undo the retaining screw on each side at
the front of the gear lever console. Prise free
13•58 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.31 Removing the heater unit-to-
facia upper retaining screw (Sec 8D)8C.53 Tightening the alternator adjuster
nut8C.52 Fitting a new coolant
pump/alternator drivebelt around the
pulleys
8C.49 Alternator/water pump drivebelt and
tensioner viewed from the right-hand
wheel arch8C.48 Top side view of water pump,
alternator and drivebelt8C.40 Coolant pump/alternator bracket
bolt removal

the trim cover, undo the retaining screw at the
rear of the console. Prise free and release the
gear lever gaiter and lift clear the central
console.
7Undo the retaining screws and remove the
steering column upper and lower shroud.
8Detach and remove the lower facia trim on
the side of the central facia.
9Referring to Fig. 13.32, unscrew and
remove the four heater facia to main facia
retaining screws from the points indicated.
10Undo the two retaining nuts securing the
heater to the body on the driver’s side.
11Undo the retaining screws and remove
the pipe shield from the side of the heater
unit, then disconnect the coolant supply and
return hoses from the heater. As the hoses are
detached, be prepared to catch any remainingcoolant as it flows from the hoses and heater
connections.
12Undo the remaining two heater unit
securing nuts and withdraw the heater unit
from the car. As the unit is removed, detach
the wiring and position the hoses with their
ends pointing upwards to avoid further
coolant spillage.
13Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the hoses are securely
reconnected. Top up the cooling system on
completion.
Heater unit - dismantling
and reassemblyÁ
14Remove the heater unit as described
previously.
15Pull free the heater/fresh air and blower
control knobs (photo).
16Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the control panel from the facia.
Detach the wiring connectors from the panel
illumination lights and remove the panel.17Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove
the centre panel from the heater unit.
18Undo the retaining screws and remove
the control lever mounting.
19Loosen off the grub screws and detach
the cables from the control levers.
20Undo the retaining screws and remove
the control valve.
21Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the heater matrix from the heater
housing.
22To separate the casing halves, drill out the
pop rivet securing the mounting bracket,
release the retaining clips and unscrew the
securing bolts.
23Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Check that the control cables are
correctly adjusted and that the controls
operate in a satisfactory manner before
refitting the heater unit to the car.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•59
8D.15 Pull free the heater/fresh air and
blower control knobs
Fig. 13.33 Heater pipe shield securing
screw positions on later models (Sec 8D)
Fig. 13.32 Heater unit facia to main facia
retaining screw locations (arrowed)
(Sec 8D)
Fig. 13.34 Heater unit components on later models (Sec 8D)
1 Coolant inlet tap 2 Centre panel 3 Side casings 4 Heater matrix 5 Blower fan
13

Fuel pressure regulator
60Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
regulator (photo).
61Anticipate some loss of pressurised fuel,
and then disconnect the fuel hose from the
regulator. Unbolt and remove the unit.
Excessive air pressure switch
62This is screwed into the end of the inlet
manifold. Disconnect the electrical leads and
unscrew the switch.
Coolant temperature sensor
63This is screwed into the cylinder head and
has wires connected to it. Drain the cooling
system before commencing operations.
64Disconnect the wiring plug and unscrew
the sensor.
Throttle valve housing and inlet
manifold
65Disconnect the air inlet hose from the
throttle valve housing, and also the
supplementary air valve hose.
66Disconnect the throttle control cable by
swivelling the grooved sector and slipping the
cable nipple from its recess.
67Disconnect the wiring plug from the
throttle position (potentiometer) switch.
68Unbolt the fuel pressure regulator/wiring
loom bracket, and also the wiring loom
bracket at the other end of the inlet manifold.
Move the wiring loom aside.
69Unbolt and remove the throttle housing
support bracket.
70Disconnect the vacuum servo hose and
the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hosesfrom the inlet manifold (photos).
71Disconnect the leads from the excessive
air pressure switch.
72Unscrew the inlet manifold fixing nuts.
Note that double nuts are used at the ends of
the manifold in order to secure the exhaust
heat shield (photo). The shield should be
released and lowered to rest on the exhaust
manifold.
73Unscrew and remove the remaining two
nuts now exposed by lowering the heat shield
and lifting the inlet manifold away (photo).
74If necessary, the injectors and cooling
tube can be withdrawn, and the two twin inlet
pipe stubs removed. These are retained with
the exhaust manifolds using nuts and washers
(photo).
Fuel rail and injectors
75Disconnect the fuel delivery hose from the
fuel rail by unscrewing the union nut (photo).
Be prepared for some loss of pressurised fuel.
76Disconnect the fuel return hose.
77Unbolt the fuel pressure regulator and the
wiring loom brackets (photo).
78Disconnect the air intake hose from the
throttle valve housing, and then unbolt and
remove the throttle valve housing support
bracket (photo).
79Disconnect the hose from the injector
cooling fan, and also disconnect the fan
thermo-switch on the underside of the injector
cooling air duct (photo). Disconnect the
injector wiring plugs, and then slide out the
injector cooling air duct.
13•70 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9C.77 Wiring loom clip and bracket9C.75 Disconnecting the fuel delivery hose
union9C.74 Removing an inlet manifold twin
pipe stub
9C.73 Removing the inlet manifold9C.72 Double nuts at the end of the inlet
manifold
9C.70B Fuel pressure regulator vacuum
hose connection at the inlet manifold9C.70A Brake servo vacuum hose
connection to inlet manifold9C.60 Fuel pressure regulator

80The injector retaining plate socket-headed
screws may now be removed using an Allen
key. Withdraw the fuel injectors and insulators
(photos).
81New injectors, complete with the fuel rail,
must be purchased as an assembly. Always
use new seals when refitting the injectors and
the insulators (photos).
Electronic control unit (ECU)
82The ECU is located under the right-hand
side of the facia panel.
83Pull off the multipin connector plug and
extract the fixing screws (photo).
System control relay
84This is located adjacent to the airflow
meter. Pull off the multipin connector and
release the relay fixing (photo).
Fuel injector cooling fan
85This is located low down on the left-hand
side of the radiator (photo).
86Remove the spiral-wire-wound hose
which connects with the injector cooling duct.
87Pull off the wiring plug, and unbolt and
remove the fan.
Supplementary air valve
88Disconnect the hoses and wiring plug
from the valve, which is located on the front
face of the engine (photos).
89Unscrew the mounting bracket screws
and withdraw the valve.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•71
9C.80A Extracting a fuel injector screw9C.79 Fan thermostatic switch on
underside of injector cooling air duct (duct
removed for clarity)
9C.85 Fuel injector cooling fan9C.84 Fuel injector system relay9C.83 ECU multipin plug
9C.81C Injector wiring plug refitting9C.81B Fuel injector cooling air duct
refitting
9C.81A Fuel injectors attached to fuel rail9C.80B Fuel injector removal
13
9C.78 Throttle valve housing support
bracket

15Undo the retaining strap bolt and
withdraw the filter from its location bracket.
Disconnect the inlet and supply hose from the
filter. If crimp connectors are fitted they will
have to be cut free and new screw type clips
fitted (photo).
16Connect the hoses to the new filter
ensuring that the filter is correctly orientated
(the arrow mark on the body indicates the
direction of fuel flow). Ensure that the hose
clips are secure before refitting the filter into
the retaining strap and securing the retaining
bolt. When the engine is restarted, check the
hose connections to ensure that there is no
fuel leakage from them.
Air cleaner element -
renewalÁ
17Release the spring clip each side at the
front of the air cleaner, then unscrew and
remove the two screws from the top front face
of the housing. Withdraw the end cover and
element from the filter unit (photos).18Wipe any dirt from within the casing then
locate the new element and refit it together
with the end cover.
Idle speed and mixture
adjustment°
19No manual idle speed and/or mixture
adjustments to this type of fuel system are
necessary or possible. Any such adjustments
are automatically made by the ECU. If the
engine idle speed and/or mixture adjustment
is suspect, it must be checked using CO
measuring equipment; a task best entrusted
to a FIAT dealer or a competent garage. The
most probable cause of a malfunction is likely
to be a defective sensor or incorrectly
adjusted accelerator control cable.
Accelerator control system
- check and adjustment#
20To check the adjustment of the
accelerator control system, it is essential thatthe engine is at its normal operating
temperature. This is achieved by running the
engine for a period of about fifteen minutes,
by which time the cooling fan should have cut
into operation several times. At this point,
stop the engine, turn the ignition key to the
OFF position and proceed as follows.
21Remove the air cleaner unit.
22Place a 10 mm shim (X) between the
adjustment screw and the cam lever (between
items 1 and 2 in Fig. 13.47), on the throttle
body. This will open the thottle butterfly by
20º.
23Loosen off the locknuts (C1 and C2) from
each linkage end. Insert another 10 mm
shim (Y) between the cable support bracket
and the nut (C1). Carefully tighten the nut
against the shim, ensuring that the cam does
not move whilst making the cable slightly taut.
24Remove the shim (Y) and carefully tighten
the nut (C2) against the bracket without
allowing the nut (C1) to move. Remove the
shim (X) and release the accelerator pedal.
Check that the butterfly is completely open
when the the pedal is fully depressed.
Fuel system
depressurisationÁ
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of this Section before starting
any work.
25The fuel system should always be
depressurised whenever any fuel hoses
and/or system components are disconnected
and/or removed. This can easily be achieved
as follows.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•75
9D.17B . . . remove the cover and extract
the element9D.17A Release the air cleaner end cover
retaining clips . . .9D.15 Secondary fuel filter element
9D.22 Accelerator control rod and cable
connections
A Cable
B Bracket
C1 Locknut
C2 Locknut
D PulleyE Pawl
H Protection
K Pedal
R BushX Shim
Y Shim
1 Adjustment screw
2 Cam lever
13
Fig. 13.47 Accelerator linkage and butterfly control lever - SPi models (Sec 9D)

air temperature sensor. Undo the retaining
screw and remove the sensor from the
injector unit (photo).
50Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Fuel injector -
removal and refittingÁ
51Depressurise the fuel system as
described previously, then disconnect the
battery negative lead.
52Remove the air cleaner unit.
53Release the injector feed wiring mutliplug
and detach it from the injector.
54Bend over the locking tabs retaining the
injector screws, then undo and remove the
screws. Withdraw the injector retaining collar,
then carefully withdraw the injector (noting its
orientation) followed by its seal.
55Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Always use new seals in the unit and the
retaining collar and lightly lubricate them with
clean engine oil prior to assembly. Take care
not to damage the seals when fitting and also
when the injector is fitted; check that it
engages correctly.
Fuel injection electronic
control unit (ECU) -
removal and refitting
Á
56The control unit is located under the facia
on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Commence
by disconnecting the battery negative lead.
57To gain access to the control unit, detach
and remove the trim panel from the underside
of the facia on the driver’s side of the car.
58Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
control unit, then undo the retaining screw
and remove the unit from the car (photos).
59Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Inlet manifold -
removal and refittingÁ
60Remove the fuel injector unit as described
previously.
61Drain the cooling system as described in
Section 8 of this Chapter.
62Detach the coolant hose and coolant
temperature sensor from the inlet manifold.
63Unbolt and remove the accelerator
cable/throttle linkage support bracket from
the top of the inlet manifold. The cable can be
left attached to the bracket.64Detach the brake servo vacuum hose
from the connector on the manifold.
65Unscrew and remove the inlet manifold
securing bolts and nuts and remove the
manifold from the cylinder head. As they are
removed, note the location of the fastenings
and their spacers.
66Remove the gasket and clean the mating
faces of the manifold and the cylinder head.
The gasket must be renewed when refitting
the manifold.
67Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the spacers are
correctly located (where applicable) and
tighten the retaining bolts and nuts to the
specified torque settings.
Exhaust manifold -
removal and refittingÁ
68Remove the inlet manifold as described
previously (1372 cc models only).
69Disconnect the Lambda sensor lead
(photo).
70Raise and support the car at the front end
on axle stands to allow sufficient clearance to
work underneath the car and disconnect the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
71Straighten the tab washers, then unscrew
and remove the exhaust downpipe-
to-manifold retaining nuts (photo). Detach the
downpipe from the manifold. Support the
downpipe so that the Lambda sensor will not
get knocked and/or damaged.72Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head
securing bolts/nuts and withdraw and remove
the manifold and heat shield.
73Remove the gasket and clean the mating
faces of the manifold, cylinder head and
downpipe flange. The gasket must be
renewed when refitting the manifold.
74Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Tighten the retaining bolts/nuts to
the specified torque setting.
Catalytic converter -
general information
75The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car
equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
maintenance schedule - particularly, en-
sure that the air cleaner filter element the
fuel filter and the spark plugs are renewed
at the correct interval - if the intake air/fuel
mixture is allowed to become too rich due
to neglect, the unburned surplus will enter
and burn in the catalytic converter,
overheating the element and eventually
destroying the converter.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•77
9D.58B . . . for access to the ECU retaining
screw (arrowed)9D.58A Detach the multiplug (arrowed) . . .9D.49 Fuel injector unit sensor retaining
screw (1). Also shown is the intake air
temperature sensor (2)
9D.71 Exhaust downpipe to manifold
flange connection showing retaining nuts
and locktabs9D.69 Lambda sensor in exhaust
downpipe
13

c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start - see b)
above.
e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds - if the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
g) DO NOT continue to use the car if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures and
the casing will become hot enough to
ignite combustible materials which brush
against it. DO NOT, therefore, park the car
in dry undergrowth, over long grass or
piles of dead leaves.
i) Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools
during servicing work, take great care
when working on the exhaust system,
ensure that the converter is well clear of
any jacks or other lifting gear used to raise
the car and do not drive the car over
rough ground road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
j) In some cases, particularly when the car is
new and/or is used for stop/start driving, a
sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs)
may be noticed from the exhaust. This is
common to many catalytic
converter-equipped cars and seems to be
due to the small amount of sulphur found
in some petrols reacting with hydrogen in
the exhaust to produce hydrogen sulphide
(H
2S) gas; while this gas is toxic, it is not
produced in sufficient amounts to be a
problem. Once the car has covered a few
thousand miles the problem should
disappear - in the meanwhile a change of
driving style or of the brand of petrol used
may effect a solution.
k) The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well driven car,
should last for at least 50 000 miles
(80 000 km) or five years - from this point
on, careful checks should be made at all
specified service intervals on the CO level
to ensure that the converter is still
operating efficiently - if the converter is no
longer effective it must be renewed.
Fuel evaporation control system
- general
76As mentioned earlier, fuel evaporation is
contained within the system. In high outdoor
temperatures, when the vehicle is parked for a
period of time, the fuel in the tank evaporates,
building up pressure. When the pressure builds
up to a predetermined level a vent valve opens
to allow the vapours to pass on to and absorbed
by a carbon filter. However, if extreme pressure
or vacuum should build up, a two way safety
valve opens to allow external venting.
77If the safety valve needs replacing, note
that it must be fitted correctly. The black end
should be connected to the fuel tank and the
blue to the carbon filter.
78The vapours in the carbon filter are
flushed by warm air passing through the filter
on to a ECU controlled vapour cut-off
solenoid.
79The cut-off solenoid is closed when
starting the engine and opens to allow
vapours to be drawn into the inlet manifold,
through a second solenoid. If the cut-off
solenoid needs replacing ensure that the
black arrow on the casing is pointing towards
the inlet manifold.
80The second solenoid, known as an Elbi
solenoid, is closed when the engine is turned
off, thus preventing engine run-on. The side
facing connection is for the inlet manifold
pipe.
PART E:
BOSCH L3.1/2 JETRONIC
FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of this Section before starting
any work.
Description
1A Bosch L3.1 (or L3.2, as fitted from 1992)
Jetronic fuel injection system is fitted to the
1372 cc Turbo ie engine. The system circuit
and main component locations are shown in
Figs. 13.48 and 13.49.
2The L3.1/2 Jetronic system is a multi-point
fuel injection (MPi) system. It operates in a
similar manner to that of the LE2-Jetronic
system fitted to the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
described in Part C of this Section. The L3.1/2
system is more sophisticated and has the
ability to provide reasonably efficient engine
operation when system sensors malfunction.
As with the LE2 system, the fuel and air
supply mixture circuits are regulated in
accordance with the electronic control unit
(ECU), but on the L3.1/2 system the control
unit is attached to the upper part of the
airflow meter.
3The ECU analyses the information passed
to it from the system sensors. These signals
are then processed and the air/fuel mixture is
constantly adjusted as required to provide the
13•78 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.48 Bosch L3.1 Jetronic fuel injection system - 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
1 ECU
1A Diagnostic socket
2 Injection system relay and
fuel pump relay
3 Ignition switch
4 Battery
5 Fuel tank
6 Fuel pump
6A Primary fuel filter7 Coolant temperature
sensor
8 Intake air cooling radiator
(intercooler)
9 Air cleaner
10 Supplementary air valve
11 Throttle position switch
11A Throttle housing
12 Airflow meter12A Intake air temperature
sensor
13 Fuel pressure regulator
14 Fuel rail (to injectors)
15 Secondary fuel filter
16 Injectors
17 Injector cooling fan
18 Thermostatic switch (to
engage injector cooling fan)

optimum engine operating efficiency. In the
event of a system sensor malfunction, errors
in data passed to the ECU are overcome by
an emergency operation, whereby the ECU
supplies the injectors with one of two set
injection periods independent of the sensors.
One period (2.2 ms) is for idle speed and the
other (2.5 ms) is for speeds above idle
(actuated when the idle speed contact is
opened).
4An injection system relay and a fuel pump
relay are fitted and are located in the engine
compartment, adjacent to the ECU on the left-
hand inner wing panel. In the event of the
engine not being started within two seconds of
the ignition being switched to the “ON”
position, the fuel pump relay is deactivated.
The fuel pump circuit fuse is located in the
main fuse block located under the facia within
the car. Note: To avoid possible damage to the
ECU, it is essential that the ignition is switched
off before disconnecting (or connecting) the
wiring multi-plug from the ECU.A Lambda (or
oxygen) sensor is fitted to L3.2 equipped
models, to measure exhaust gas oxygen
content. In sending signals to the ECU,
optimum catalyst operation is maintained.
Fuel system -
depressurisationÁ
5The fuel system should always be
depressurised whenever any fuel hoses
and/or system components are disconnected
and/or removed. This can easily be achieved
as follows.
6The fuel pump relay is located next to the
ECU and airflow meter in the engine
compartment. Carefully pull free the fuel
pump relay, then start the engine and run it
until it stops. The fuel system is now
depressurised. Turn the ignition off before
removing/dismantling any components.
7Do not refit the fuel pump relay or turn the
ignition on until the system is fully
reconnected. When the engine is ready to be
restarted, refit the relay and its cover, then
restart the engine in the normal manner.
MaintenanceÁ
8Regularly check the condition and security
of the system hoses and connections. Also
check the system wiring connections for
condition and security.9At the specified intervals, renew the air
cleaner element and the fuel filter.
Fuel filter - renewalÁ
10This is located in the engine compartment
on the right-hand side. Disconnect the fuel
inlet and outlet hoses, but be prepared for the
loss of fuel. Loosen off the clamp and remove
the filter.
11Reverse the removal procedure to fit the
new filter, but ensure that the arrow indicating
fuel flow is pointing towards the fuel injector rail.
Air cleaner element -
renewalÁ
12Prise free the four retaining clips, then
remove the cover and the air cleaner element.13Wipe clean the inside surfaces of the air
cleaner housing, then insert the new element,
refit the cover and secure it with the four
retaining clips.
Checks and adjustments°
Engine idle speed and mixture
adjustment
14Before carrying out any adjustments, the
engine must be at its normal operating
temperature, the cooling fan having cut into
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•79
Fig. 13.49 Fuel injection system components layout in engine compartment on the
1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
1 ECU
1A Diagnostic socket
2 Ignition system relay and
fuel pump relay
7 Coolant temperature
sensor10 Supplementary air valve
11 Throttle position switch
11A Throttle housing
12 Airflow meter
13 Fuel pressure regulator
15 Secondary fuel filter16 Injectors
17 Injector cooling fan
18 Thermostatic switch (to
engage injector cooling
fan)
Fig. 13.52 Idle speed adjustment screw (1)
on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
Note method of compressing the
supplementary air valve pipe (arrowed)
Fig. 13.51 Air cleaner cover securing clips
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)Fig. 13.50 Secondary fuel filter with arrows
indicating direction of flow - 1372 cc Turbo
ie engine (Sec 9E)
13