automatic transmission fluid FORD SIERRA 1988 2.G DOHC Engine Workshop Manual

34Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
35Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
36To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt
the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them (see
illustration).
37Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
38Support the crossmember with a jack (do
not remove the jack from under the gearbox),
then loosen the bolts securing the
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
bolts from one side (see illustration), and
carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
to allow the sump to clear the steering rack
and crossmember when pulling the engine
forwards from the gearbox.
39Gently raise the engine, then pull it
forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox.
Ensure that the gearbox is adequately
supported, and take care not to strain the
gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to
rock the engine a little to release it from the
gearbox.
40Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the components in the engine compartment
(see illustration).Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
and lifting tackle will be required for this
operation.
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket, as
applicable.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 23 to 29
of Section 5.
4Where applicable, remove the bolt securing
the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the left-
hand side of the cylinder block.
5Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
to each bolt in turn through the aperture.
6Support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
7Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate. Recover any
shims fitted between the sump and the
transmission when removing the lower engine-
to-transmission bolts. Where applicable, pull
the blanking plug from the adapter plate.
8Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 38
of Section 5.
9Gently raise the engine, then pull the engine
forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10Once clear of the transmission, lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the components in the engine
compartment.Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
and lifting tackle will be required for this
operation.
Removal
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
Ensure that there is enough working room
beneath the vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold, and remove the
exhaust system.
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips, and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
10Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against its stop, so holding the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
11Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing.
12Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
13Unscrew the four nuts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
7Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation6Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in
vehicle
DOHC engine 2B•5
2B
5.38 Removing a suspension crossmember
securing bolt
5.40 Lifting the engine from the vehicle
5.37 Removing a brake line securing clip
from the suspension crossmember5.36 Remove the engine mounting
brackets to improve clearance

the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and where applicable the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
14Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack,
then remove the securing circlip, and
disconnect the speedometer drive cable from
the gearbox.
15Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch. On models with fuel injection,
disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed
sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox.
16Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
disconnect the gear linkage support bracket
from the gearbox.
17Using a suitable pin punch, drive out the
roll-pin securing the gearchange rod to the
gear linkage.
18Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is
being removed.
19To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt
the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them.
20Ensure that the steering wheel is
positioned in the straight-ahead position, then
remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering
column clamp, swivel the plate to one side,
and disconnect the lower steering column
from the lower flexible coupling.
21Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
22Support the crossmember with a jack (do
not remove the jack from under the gearbox),
then loosen the bolts securing the
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
crossmember securing bolts, and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the engine sump to clear the steering rack and
crossmember as the engine/gearbox
assembly is removed.
23Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
gine/gearbox assembly.
24Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack which is
supporting the gearbox.
25Place a suitable rod across the vehicle
underbody to support the gear linkage
support bracket whilst the gearbox is
removed.
26Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using
the hoist and the trolley jack, until the
assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take
care not to damage surrounding components.
27If the vehicle is to be moved while the
engine/gearbox assembly is removed,
temporarily refit the suspension crossmember
and the anti-roll bar to the underbody, and
reconnect the steering column to the
intermediate shaft.Separation
28To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
29Remove the starter motor.
30Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
31Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
positions of the earth strap and any wiring
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
fitted between the sump and the gearbox
when removing the lower engine-to-gearbox
bolts.
32Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate.
33Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
and lifting tackle will be required for this
operation. Any suspected faults in the
automatic transmission should be referred to a
Ford dealer or automatic transmission
specialist before removal of unit, as the
specialist fault diagnosis equipment is
designed to operate with the transmission in
the vehicle.
Removal
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands. (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
Ensure that there is enough working room
beneath the vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold, and remove the
exhaust system.
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
10Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood between the jack
and the transmission to spread the load.
11Unscrew the four bolts securing thetransmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the transmission, and
remove the crossmember. Note the position
of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover
the mounting cup, and where applicable, the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
12Lower the transmission slightly on the
jack.
13Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission, to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid
cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
14Remove the two clips securing the
selector rod, and detach the selector rod from
the manual selector lever, and from the
selector lever on the transmission.
15Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor switch, kickdown solenoid, lock-up
clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where
applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid.
16Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transmission extension housing. Plug the
opening in the transmission to prevent dirt
ingress.
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 18 to
27 of Section 7, substituting transmission for
gearbox, and ignoring paragraph 25.
Separation
18To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Support the engine and transmission
horizontally on blocks of wood.
21Working through the starter motor
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
22Where applicable, remove the bolt
securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube
to the left-hand side of the cylinder block.
23Unscrew the engine-to-transmission
bolts, noting the locations of the bolts, and
the positions of the earth strap and any wiring
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
fitted between the sump and the transmission
when removing the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts.
24Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate and, where applicable, pull the blanking
plug from the adapter plate.
25Pull the engine and the transmission
apart, ensuring that the torque converter is
held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
8Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
2B•6DOHC engine

1Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 40, Section 5, noting the
following points.
2Before attempting to refit the engine, check
that the clutch friction disc is centralised.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block using one of the
engine-to-gearbox bolt holes.
5If shims were fitted between the sump and
the gearbox, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled,
where applicable fit the relevant shims as
calculated during engine reassembly.
6Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft, and
tighten the clamp bolt to the specified torque.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Check the throttle cable adjustment.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
1Reverse the procedure in paragraphs 1 to
10 of Section 6, noting the following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block, using one of
the engine-to-transmission bolt holes.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4If shims were fitted between the sump and
the transmission, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
transmission. If the engine has been
overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant
shims as calculated during engine
reassembly.5As the engine is installed, guide the torque
converter studs through the holes in the
driveplate. When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
6Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Check the throttle cable adjustment.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
1Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 33 of Section 7, noting the
following points.
2Before attempting to reconnect the engine
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
disc is centralised.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block, using one of
the engine-to-gearbox bolt holes.
5If shims were fitted between the sump and
the gearbox, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled,
where applicable fit the relevant shims as
calculated during engine reassembly.
6Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
7Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Check the throttle cable adjustment.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Check and if necessary top-up the
gearbox oil level.
12Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.1Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 25 of Section 8, noting the
following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block, using one of
the engine-to-transmission bolt holes.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4If shims were fitted between the sump and
the transmission, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
transmission. If the engine has been
overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant
shims as calculated during engine
reassembly.
5As the engine and transmission are mated
together, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate. When the
engine is positioned flush with the engine
adapter plate and the transmission housing,
check that the torque converter is free to
move axially a small amount before refitting
and tightening the engine-to-transmission
bolts.
6Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
8Reconnect the selector rod and check for
correct adjustment.
9Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
10Check the throttle cable adjustment.
11Fill the cooling system.
12Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission fluid level.
13Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part C,
but note that on certain models it may be
necessary to unbolt the engine mounting
brackets from the cylinder block to allow
sufficient clearance to remove the mountings.
13Engine mountings - renewal
12Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
reconnection and refitting
11Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - reconnection and
refitting
10Engine - refitting (automatic
transmission in vehicle)
9Engine - refitting (manual
gearbox in vehicle)
DOHC engine 2B•7
2B