oil filter JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Workshop Manual

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Roadside repairs0•9
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
MUse a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
MAlways turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
MOnly attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided. On some models with energy-
absorbing bumpers there are no front towing
eyes; on these vehicles the tow-rope shouldbe attached around the rear arm of the lower
control arm so that the rope passes on the
inside of the coil spring.
MBefore being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
MNote that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
MOn models with power steering, greater-
than-usual steering effort will also be required.
MThe driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
MMake sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
MOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
MOn models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.
Caution: On models with automatic
transmission, if the vehicle is to be towed
with its rear wheels on the ground, and
extra 1.7 litres of fluid should be added to
the transmission, prior to towing (this extra
fluid must be drained before driving the
vehicle). Even with the extra fluid added to
the transmission, do not tow the vehicle at
speeds in excess of 30 mph (50 kmh) or for
a distance of greater than 15 miles (25 km).
If towing speed/distance are to exceed
these limits, then the vehicle must be
towed with its rear wheels off the ground.
Towing
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car and
to park it over some clean paper as an
aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

0•16Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Lubricants and fluids
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to API SG or higher (Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus,
Hypergrade, or 10W-40 Motor Oil)
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based (phosphate free) antifreeze
(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams Uni-Matic)
Differential:
Standard differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE EP90 to API GL5 (Duckhams 80W-90S Gear Oil)
Powr-lok differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE 90 to API GL5 (Duckhams Hypoid 90 DL)
Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)
Power steering (with separate reservoir) .dependent on year of manufacture and system fitted - refer to your Jaguar dealer
Power hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . Castrol or Jaguar hydraulic system mineral oil (HSMO) Refer to your Jaguar dealer
Tyre pressures
Note:Tyre pressures must always be checked with the tyres cold to ensure accuracy.
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Note:Jaguar state that the tyre pressures maybe reduced by up to 8 psi (0.6 bar) on the front tyres and 6 psi (0.4 bar) on the rear
tyres to increase the ride comfort. This is only allowable if the vehicle is not to be driven at speeds in excess of 100 mph (160 kmh);
if speeds are to exceed this, the tyres must be run at the specified pressures.
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The
higher the engine’s performance, the greater
the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as
well as optimise power and economy.
Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest
technical standards, meeting and exceeding
the demands of all modern engines.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine
which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly
cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special
additives, forms a molecular barrier between
moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat
build-up.
• Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based
coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion
chamber and pistons, where temperatures
may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists intransferring the heat to the engine cooling
system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow
over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.
• Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products
(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,
transporting them to the oil filter, and holding
the smallest particles in suspension until they
are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams
oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,
and on the road.
Engine oil types
Mineral oilsare the “traditional” oils,
generally suited to older engines and cars not
used in harsh conditions. Duckhams
Hypergrade Plus and Hypergradeare well
suited for use in most popular family cars.
Diesel oilssuch as Duckhams Dieselare
specially formulated for Diesel engines,
including turbocharged models and 4x4s.
Synthetic oilsare the state-of-the-art in
lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at
a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,
for use in ultra-high performance engines.
Semi-synthetic oilsoffer high performance
engine protection, but at less cost than full
synthetic oils. Duckhams QXRis an ideal choice
for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical
queries on lubricants,
call Duckhams Oils
on 0181 290 8207
Choosing your engine oil
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Automatic transmission fluid and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Battery check and general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Braking system - general check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Differential oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Differential oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Front wheel bearing check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
General lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Handbrake shoes check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Headlight beam check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Power hydraulic system fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Propshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Spark plug check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Lubricants and fluids
Refer to “Weekly checks”
Capacities
Engine oil
Including oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres
Cooling system
All models (approximate):
From dry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.8 litres
Drain and refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2 litres
Transmission
Automatic transmission (approximate):
From dry:
3.2 litre model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.4 litres
3.6 and 4.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres
Drain and refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres
Differential
All models (approximate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 litres
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -37°C (5°F)
55% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -45°C (-22°F)
Note:Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Ignition system
Spark plugs:
Type:
3.2 litre model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC12YCC
3.6 and 4.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC9YCC
Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 mm
*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion
for their specified plug listed above. If spark plugs of any other type
are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.
Engine firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5-3-6-2-4
Distributor rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise
Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5
Brakes
Disc brake pad friction material minimum thickness:
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm
Handbrake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 5 clicks
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Automatic transmission sump pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Automatic transmission dipstick tube nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 28 17 to 21
Wheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 75
1•2Servicing specifications
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Cylinder location and distributor rotation

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures moreoften. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
Maintenance schedule 1•3
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly, or every 250 miles (400 km)
m mCarry out all the operations given in “Weekly
checks”at the start of this manual.
m
mRenew the fuel filter (Section 18)
m mCheck the ignition system components (Section 19)
m mCheck the crankcase ventilation system
(Section 20)
m mCheck the condition and tension of the drivebelt(s)
(Section 21)
m mCheck the front wheel bearing adjustment and
repack with grease (Section 22)
m mCheck the propshaft fasteners are tightened to the
specified torque (Section 23)
m mCheck the front wheel alignment (Section 24)
m mCheck the headlight beam alignment (Section 25)
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km)
or 6 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
m mCheck the spark plugs (Section 4)
m mCheck the power hydraulics fluid level (Section 5)
m mCheck the battery (Section 6)
m mCheck all pipes and hoses for signs of damage or
leakage (Section 7)
m mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 8)
m mCheck the differential oil level (Section 9)
m mCheck the condition of the exhaust system
(Section 10)
m mCheck the brake pads and discs for wear and
adjust the handbrake (Section 11)
m mCheck the steering and suspension components
for wear or damage and check the wheel nuts are
tightened to the correct torque (Section 12)
m mCheck the condition of the seat belts (Section 13)
m mLubricate all locks and hinges, and exposed cables
(Section 14)
m mCarry out a road test (Section 15)
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
m
mRenew the coolant (Section 30)
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m
mCheck the handbrake shoes for wear (Section 29)
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km)
or 2 years, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the automatic transmission fluid and filter
(Section 26)
m mRenew the differential oil (Section 27)
m mRenew the brake fluid (Section 28)
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km)
or 12 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 16)
m mRenew the air cleaner element (Section 17)

1 General information
1This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
2The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
3Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
4As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the proximity of two otherwise-
unrelated components to one another. For
example, if the vehicle is raised for any
reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the
same time as the suspension and steering
components.
5The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather all the parts and
tools required. If a problem is encountered,
seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer
service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Chapter 2) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the extent
of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly
improve the performance of the engine, and
may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.4The following series of operations are those
which are most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
(Section 6).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer
to “Weekly checks”).
c) Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).
d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 16).
e) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
f) Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 17).
g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 18).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 7).
i) Check the exhaust gas emissions (see
Chapter 6).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a) Check the charging system (refer to
Chapter 5).
b) Check the ignition system (refer to
Chapter 5).
c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 19).
1•6Maintenance procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal
2
1Frequent oil changes are the best
preventive maintenance the home mechanic
can give the engine, because ageing oil
becomes diluted and contaminated, which
leads to premature engine wear.
2Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy for mopping up
any spills.
3Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by
axle stands.
4If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
location of the oil drain plug. The engine and
3.2 These tools are required when
changing the engine oil and filter
1 Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide in order to prevent spills
2 Rubber gloves - When removing the drain
plug and filter, it is inevitable that you will
get oil on your hands (the gloves will
prevent burns)
3 Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug
is pretty tight and a long breaker bar is
needed to loosen it
4 Socket – To be used with the breaker bar
or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit
the drain plug)
5 Filter wrench - This is a metal band-type
wrench, which requires clearance around
the filter to be effective
6 Filter wrench - This type fits on the bottom
of the filter and can be turned with a
ratchet or breaker bar (different size
spanners are available for different types of
filters)

exhaust components will be warm during the
actual work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems before the engine and accessories
are hot.
5Park the vehicle on a level spot. Start the
engine and allow it to reach its normal
operating temperature (the needle on the
temperature gauge should be at least above
the bottom mark). Warm oil and contaminates
will flow out more easily. Turn off the engine
when it’s warmed up. Remove the oil filler cap
located next to the valve cover.
6Raise the vehicle and support it on axle
stands.
Warning: To avoid personal
injury, never get beneath the
vehicle when it is supported by
only by a jack. The jack provided
with your vehicle is designed solely for
raising the vehicle to remove and replace
the wheels. Always use axle stands to
support the vehicle when it becomes
necessary to place your body underneath
the vehicle.
7Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug in the bottom of the pan and
remove the plug (see illustration). You may
want to wear gloves while unscrewing the
plug the final few turns if the engine is really
hot.
8Allow the old oil to drain into the pan. It may
be necessary to move the pan farther under
the engine as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
Inspect the old oil for the presence of metal
shavings and chips.
9After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Even minute metal
particles clinging to the plug would
immediately contaminate the new oil.
10Clean the area around the drain plug
opening, refit the plug and tighten it securely,
but do not strip the threads.
11Move the drain pan into position under the
oil filter.
12Remove all tools, rags, etc. from under
the vehicle, being careful not to spill the oil in
the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.
13Loosen the oil filter (see illustration)by
turning it anti-clockwise with the filter wrench.
Any standard filter wrench should work. Oncethe filter is loose, use your hands to unscrew
it from the block. Just as the filter comes
away from the block, immediately tilt the open
end up to prevent the oil inside the filter from
spilling out.
Warning: The engine exhaust
pipes may still be hot, so be
careful.
14With a clean rag, wipe off the mounting
surface on the block. If a residue of old oil is
allowed to remain, it will smoke when the
block is heated up. It will also prevent the new
filter from seating properly. Also make sure
that the none of the old gasket remains stuck
to the mounting surface. It can be removed
with a scraper if necessary.
15Compare the old filter with the new one to
make sure they are the same type. Smear
some engine oil on the rubber gasket of the
new filter and screw it into place (see
illustration). Because over-tightening the
filter will damage the gasket, do not use
a filter wrench to tighten the filter. Tighten it by
hand until the gasket contacts the seating
surface. Then seat the filter by giving it an
additional 3/4-turn.
16Add new oil to the engine through the oil
filler cap next to the valve cover. Use a spout
or funnel to prevent oil from spilling onto the
top of the engine. Pour three litres of fresh oil
into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow
the oil to drain into the pan, then check the
level on the oil dipstick (see “Weekly checks”).
If the oil level is at or near the H mark, refit the
filler cap hand tight, start the engine and allow
the new oil to circulate.
17Allow the engine to run for about a minute.
While the engine is running, look under the
vehicle and check for leaks at the sump drain
plug and around the oil filter. If either isleaking, stop the engine and tighten the plug
or filter slightly.
18Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to
trickle down into the pan, then recheck the
level on the dipstick and, if necessary, add
enough oil to bring the level to the H mark.
19During the first few trips after an oil
change, make it a point to check frequently
for leaks and proper oil level.
20The old oil drained from the engine cannot
be reused in its present state and should be
disposed of. Check with your local authority,
or with a local garage to see whether they will
accept the oil for recycling. Don’tpour used
oil into drains or onto the ground. After the oil
has cooled, it can be drained into a suitable
container (capped plastic jugs, topped
bottles, etc.) for transport to an approved
disposal site.
4 Spark plug check
2
1Spark plug renewal requires a spark plug
socket which fits onto a ratchet spanner. This
socket is lined with a rubber grommet to
protect the porcelain insulator of the spark
plug and to hold the plug while you insert it
into the spark plug hole. You will also need a
wire-type feeler gauge to check and adjust
the spark plug gap and a torque wrench to
tighten the new plugs to the specified torque
(see illustration).
2If you are replacing the plugs, purchase the
new plugs, adjust them to the proper gap and
then replace each plug one at a time. Note:
When buying new spark plugs, it’s essential
that you obtain the correct plugs for your
specific vehicle. This information can be found
in the Specifications Section at the beginning
of this Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions
Control Information (VECI) label located on the
underside of the bonnet (where fitted)or in the
owner’s manual. If these sources specify
different plugs, purchase the spark plug type
specified on the VECI label because that
information is provided specifically for your
engine.
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•7
1
3.7 The oil drain plug (arrowed) is located
at the rear of the sump - use a ring
spanner or socket to remove it3.13 The oil filter is located on the left side
of the engine - use a filter wrench for
removal (tighten the new filter by hand)3.15 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with
clean engine oil before refitting the filter
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses
when working near the battery. Keep children
away from the battery.
5Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and cable clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a rubber
protector, make sure it isn’t torn or damaged.
It should completely cover the terminal. Look
for any corroded or loose connections, cracks
in the case or cover or loose hold-down
clamps. Also check the entire length of each
cable for cracks and frayed conductors.
6If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits (see illustration)is evident,
particularly around the terminals, the battery
should be removed for cleaning. Loosen the
cable clamp bolts, being careful to remove the
ground cable first, and slide them off the
terminals (see illustration). Then disconnect
the hold-down clamp bolt and nut, remove the
clamp and lift the battery from the engine
compartment.
7Clean the cable clamps thoroughly with a
battery brush or a terminal cleaner and a
solution of warm water and baking soda (see
illustration). Wash the terminals and the top
of the battery case with the same solution but
make sure that the solution doesn’t get into
the battery. When cleaning the cables,
terminals and battery top, wear safety
goggles and rubber gloves to prevent any
solution from coming in contact with your
eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too - evendiluted, sulphuric acid splashed onto clothes
will burn holes in them. If the terminals have
been extensively corroded, clean them up
with a terminal cleaner (see illustration).
Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain
water.
8Make sure the battery tray is in good
condition and the hold-down clamp bolt or
nut is tight. If the battery is removed from the
tray, make sure no parts remain in the bottom
of the tray when the battery is reinstalled.
When reinstalling the hold-down clamp bolt or
nut, do not over-tighten it.
9Information on removing and refitting the
battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information
on jump starting can be found at the front of
this manual.
Cleaning
10Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-
based primer, then painted.
Charging
Warning: When batteries are
being charged, hydrogen gas,
which is very explosive and
flammable, is produced. Do notsmoke or allow open flames near a
charging or a recently charged battery.
Wear eye protection when near the battery
during charging. Also, make sure the
charger is unplugged before connecting or
disconnecting the battery from the
charger.
12Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in the winter when the
battery must work harder to start the engine
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.
13It’s best to use a one or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher
amperage charger, but don’t use one rated
more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the
battery. Rapid boost charges that claim to
restore the power of the battery in one to two
hours are hardest on the battery and can
damage batteries not in good condition. This
type of charging should only be used in
emergency situations.
14The average time necessary to charge a
battery should be listed in the instructions that
come with the charger. As a general rule, a
trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16
hours.
7 Hose and fluid leak check
1
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -
what you are really looking for is any indication
of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a
1•10Every 7500 miles or 6 months
6.6a Battery terminal corrosion usually
appears as light, fluffy powder6.6b Removing a cable from the battery
post with a spanner - sometimes special
battery pliers are required for this if
corrosion has damaged the nut hex
6.7a Remove all the corrosion from the
cable clamps (the inside of the clamp is
tapered to match the taper on the post, so
don’t remove too much material)6.7b Regardless of the type of tool used to
clean the battery posts, a clean, shiny
surface should be the result
3261 Jaguar XJ6
A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white - or rust-coloured -
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

16 Spark plug renewal
2
Refer to Section 4, renewing the plugs
regardless of their apparent condition.
17 Air cleaner element renewal
1
1The air filter is located inside a housing at
the left side of the engine compartment. To
remove the air filter, release the four spring
clips that secure the two halves of the air
cleaner housing together, then lift the cover
up and remove the air filter element (see
illustration).
Caution: Never drive the car with the air
cleaner removed. Excessive engine wear
could result and backfiring could even
cause a fire under the bonnet.
2Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner
housing.
3Place the new filter into the air cleaner
housing, making sure it seats properly.
4Refitting the cover is the reverse of removal.
18 Fuel filter renewal
2
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas-typeappliance (such as a water heater or
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
Since petrol is carcinogenic, wear latex
gloves when there’s a possibility of being
exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. Mop up any spills immediately
and do not store fuel-soaked rags where
they could ignite. The fuel system is under
constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are
to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in
the system must be relieved first (see
Chapter 4 for more information). When you
perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses and have a
Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
1The canister type filter is mounted
underneath the car on the passenger’s side
frame rail just in front of the left rear tyre.
2Depressurise the fuel system (refer to
Chapter 4), then disconnect the cable from
the negative terminal of the battery.
3On 1988 to 1990 models, detach the banjo
bolt from the outlet side of the filter then
remove the union from the inlet side of the
filter. Unscrew the filter mounting bolt and
remove the filter (see illustration).
4On 1991 to 1994 models, the fuel filter has
quick-disconnect fittings that do not require 8Clean and lubricate the handbrake cable,
along with the cable guides and levers. This
can be done by smearing some of the chassis
grease onto the cable and its related parts
with your fingers.
9Open the bonnet and smear a little chassis
grease on the bonnet latch mechanism. Have
an assistant pull the bonnet release lever from
inside the car as you lubricate the cable at the
latch.
10Lubricate all the hinges (door, bonnet,
etc.) with engine oil to keep them in proper
working order.
11The key lock cylinders can be lubricated
with spray graphite or silicone lubricant, which
is available at motor factors.12Lubricate the door weather-stripping with
silicone spray. This will reduce chafing and
retard wear.
15 Road test
1
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.
Steering and suspension
3Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4Drive the car, and check that there are no
unusual vibrations or noises.
5Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6Check the performance of the engine and
transmission, listening for any unusual noises.7Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
8Check that the gear changing action of the
transmission is smooth and progressive and
that the drive is taken up smoothly from a
standing start.
Braking system
9Make sure that the car does not pull to one
side when braking, and that the wheels do not
lock prematurely when braking hard.
10Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
11Check that the handbrake operates
correctly without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the car stationary on a
slope.
12Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then
start the engine. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to
run for at least two minutes, and then switch it
off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it
should be possible to detect a hiss from the
servo as the pedal is depressed. After about
four or five depressions, no further hissing
should be heard, and the pedal should feel
considerably harder.
1•14Every 7500 miles or 6 months
17.1 Detach the clips and separate the
cover, then slide the filter element out of
the housing
3261 Jaguar XJ6
14.6 Grease fittings for the rear
driveshafts are located in the centre
on each U-joint
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km) or 12 months

30 Coolant renewal
2
Warning: Do not allow engine
coolant (antifreeze) to come in
contact with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never
leave antifreeze laying around in an open
container or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by it’s
sweet smell and may drink it. Check with
local authorities about disposing of used
antifreeze. Your local authority may have
collection centres which will see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the
antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of
rust and corrosion, which can impair the
performance of the cooling system and
cause engine damage. When the cooling
system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator
cap should be checked and renewed if
necessary.
Draining
2Apply the handbrake and block the wheels.
If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several
hours to allow the engine to cool down before
beginning this procedure.
3Remove the expansion tank pressure cap
(see illustration).
4Move a large container under the radiator
drain to catch the coolant. Then using a largescrewdriver, open the radiator drain plug and
direct the coolant into the container (see
illustration).
27 Differential oil renewal
2
1Drive the car for several miles to warm up
the differential lubricant, then raise the car
and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and
the required tools under the car.
3Remove the check/fill plug from the
differential. If necessary refer to Section 9 for
the check/fill plug location.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
use a ratchet and socket to loosen the drain
plug (see illustration). Note:A special pipe
plug socket may be required to complete this
procedure.
5Once loosened, carefully unscrew it with
your fingers until you can remove it from the
case. Since the lubricant will be hot, wear a
rubber glove to prevent burns.
6Allow all of the oil to drain into the pan, then
replace the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 9 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the fill plug and tighten it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
28 Brake fluid renewal
2
Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling or
pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has
been standing open or is more than oneyear old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from
the air. Excess moisture can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
1At the specified time intervals, the brake
fluid should be drained and renewed. Since
the brake fluid may drip or splash when
pouring it, place plenty of rags around the
master cylinder to protect any surrounding
painted surfaces.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified type of brake fluid.
3Remove the cap from the master cylinder
reservoir.
4Using a hand suction pump or similar
device, withdraw the fluid from the master
cylinder reservoir.
5Add new fluid to the master cylinder until it
rises to the base of the filler neck.
6Bleed the brake system as described in
Chapter 9 at all four brakes until new and
uncontaminated fluid flows from the bleed
screw.
7Refill the master cylinder with fluid and
check the operation of the brakes. The pedal
should feel solid when depressed, with no
sponginess.
Warning: Do not drive the car if
you are in any doubt about the
braking system.
1•20Every 30 000 miles or 2 years
27.4 The differential drain plug (arrowed)
is accessible through a hole located in the
middle of the differential support brace
30.3 Push the expansion tank pressure
cap downward and rotate anti-clockwise -
never remove it when the engine is hot!
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
29 Handbrake shoes check
2
1Remove the rear discs and inspect the
handbrake shoes as described in Chapter 9. If
the shoes are worn or damaged they must be
renewed.Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage