wheel size JEEP CJ 1953 Service Manual

B
LUBRICATION B-3.
SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

Perform
the following operations at the mileage shown. Two thousand miles equals
3,200
km.

SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

OPERATION
VEHICLE
^ n>
MILEAGE
IN
THOUSANDS

6 8 10 12 24 30
Check Wheel Nut Torque*
Check
Fluid
Level
in Battery X Check
Fluid
Level
in Brake Master Cylinder0. X
Service
Cooling
System X Service Tires X

Lubricate
Distributor
Cam Lubricator (F4-134) X
Lubricate
Steering Linkage X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft Universal Joints X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft
Slip
Joints ; X
Lubricate
Tie Rod and Drag
Link
Sockets................................... X Change Engine
Oil
and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (F4 134 Engine)** X
Change Engine Oil and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (V6-225 Engine)**....
Check Brake Operation and Pedal
Free
Play X Check
Clutch
Pedal
Free
Play. .... X
Check all
V-Belt
Tensions X
Check Exhaust Emission System
(If
so equipped)*** \ X
Service Positive
Crankcase
Vent
Valve
and Breather . .' X
Road Test
Including
a Check of all Instrument
Lights
and Controls X Tune-up Engine
Check Operation of
Manifold
Heat
Control
Valve

Clean
Exterior of Radiator

Align
Headlights • Check Brake
Linings
,
Check Exhaust System for Leaks Replace Canister Air
Filter
(F. E. E. C. System)
Check
Axle
U-Bolt
Torque. Check Lubricaunt
Level
of Front
Axle
Universal Joints
Check Shock Absorber Mountings and Bushings Check Front and
Rear
Spring Bushings

Lubricate
Distributor
(V6-225).
Replace Spark, Plugs
Check Charging and Starting Circuits
Lubricate
Tailgate Latch, Supports and Hinges.

Lubricate
Door and
Hood
Hinge Pivots ;
Lubricate
Glove Compartment Door Latch

Lubricate
Heater Controls •

Lubricate
Windshield
Wiper and Washer Controls
Clean,
Repack and
Adjust
Wheel Bearings
Change Transmission and Transfer Lubricant. .
Replace
Dry-Type
Air Cleaner • Check Lubricant
Level
of
Differential

Lubricate
Transfer
Case
Shift
LeArer
Control
C«se.
. , . . . . . . . .
Continuing
each
2,000 miles

Continuing
each
6,000 miles

Continuing
each
24,000 miles

X
Continuing
each
30,000 miles
•Check after the
first
200 miles [320
km.
J
of operation.
If
wheel or wheels are changed for any
reason,
have
wheel nut torque rechecked after an additional two hundred miles of operation
••Service mileage shown or every 60 days, whichever occurs
first.

•••Maintenance check on emission system must be performed per
information
in this manual. "See text for brakes.

"Nj
^Miles
2,000
6,000
12,000
18,000
24,000
30,000
Kilometers

3,200
9,600
19,200
28,800
38,400 48,000

B-9.
Engine Oil

For
maximum
engine
protection under all driving conditions encountered during the recommended

oil
change intervals, it is necessary to use only

"MS"
certified
sequence-tested
oils. The term
"MS"
must appear on the oil container singly or

in
conjunction with other designations. "MS" des­
ignated oils are heavy-duty detergent oils that are
formulated to withstand all service conditions in
modern powerplants. Engine oils designated only
as
"ML"
and/or
"MM"
are not recommended and should not be used except in an emergency when

"MS"
oil is not available. Certified
sequence-tested

engine
oils are described on their containers by

such
phrases as:
meets,
exceeds,
excels, or has
proven superior in the
test
requirements,
test
sequences, MS Service
tests,
standards, and service

requirements,
of automotive manufacturers, auto­
makers,
or car manufacturers for MS service or
Service
MS.
It
may be necessary to change
engine
oil more
frequently than normally recommended, depending upon the type and quality of oil used, the severity
of operation conditions, if the
engine
is used for
short
periods in cold weather, or if the
engine
is allowed to idle for excessive periods.

Always
drain
the crankcase while the
engine
is hot since
dirt
and contaminants are then more
likely
to be held in suspension and therefore
will

drain
out more completely.
Drain
the crankcase as follows:

a.
Position the
drain
receptacle under the
drain

plug.

b.
Remove the
drain
plug using the correct size

wrench.
Be careful of hot oil.
c.
Carefully
clean the
drain
plug. Inspect and

replace
the gasket, if deteriorated.
d.
When the oil has drained, replace and tighten
the crankcase
drain
plug. 12

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the main bearing caps to the cylinder block. Use
a
lifting bar beneath the ends of each bearing cap.

Be
careful not to exert too much pressure to cause
damage to the cap or
dowels
and pry the caps free.

CAUTION:
If main bearing caps are not removed
carefully
by raising both sides of each cap evenly

until
free of the dowels, the
dowels
may be bent.

A
bent main bearing cap dowel can cause misalign­ ment of the cap and resultant
rapid
bearing wear
necessitating replacement. Therefore, remove each
main
bearing cap carefully. If there is reason to
believe any of the
dowels
have been bent during
the bearing cap removal, remove them and install
new
dowels
as detailed in Par. D-34c.
Remove the upper
half
of the
rear
main bearing

oil
seal from the cylinder block and the lower
half

from
the oil seal
groove
in the
rear
main bearing

cap.
Install
the main bearing caps and bearings on
the cylinder block in their original positions.

Note;
Removal of the crankshaft may be ac­
complished only with the
engine
out of the vehicle.

D-27.
Remove
Exhaust
Valves and Springs
Access to the valve chamber is obtained by re­ moving the attaching parts and the valve spring
cover and gasket from the cylinder block. Use cloths
to block off the three
holes
in the exhaust valve
chamber to prevent the valve retaining locks falling
into the crankcase, should they be accidentally dropped.

With
a valve
/
spring compressor, compress the valve springs on
those
valves which are in the
closed position (valve seated against cylinder

block).
Remove the exhaust valve spring retainer

locks,
the exhaust valve spring retainer, and the exhaust valve spring. Close the other valves by
rotating the camshaft and repeat the above opera­
tion for the other valves in the same manner.
Lift

out all the exhaust valves and tag or place them in
a
rack
to indicate the location where each was re­moved from the cylinder block. If a valve sticks in
the guide and cannot be easily lifted out,
pull
the valve upward as far as possible and remove the

spring.
Lower
the valve and remove any carbon

deposits
from the valve stem.
This
will
permit re­ moval of the valve.

For
intake valve and spring removal, see
Par.
D-l7.

D-28.
Remove Camshaft

a.
Push the intake and exhaust valve tappets into the cylinder block as far as possible so the ends of
the tappets are not in contact with the camshaft. b. Secure each tappet in the raised position by in­
stalling a common clip-type clothes pin on the

shank
of each tappet or tie them up in the valve
chamber.

c. Remove the camshaft thrust plate attaching
screws.
Remove the camshaft thrust plate and

spacer.

d.
Pull
the camshaft forward out of the cylinder
block using care to prevent damage to the cam­
shaft bearing surfaces.
D-29.
Remove Valve Tappets
Remove the intake and exhaust valve tappets from
the
bottom
or crankshaft side of the cylinder block
after the camshaft has been removed. Tag each
tappet or place them in a marked
rack
so they may be reassembled in their original positions.

D-30.
Remove Oil
Gallery
Plugs
Remove the plug at each end of the oil gallery in the cylinder block.
This
operation is only applicable
when the
engine
is out of the vehicle and
will
allow access to the oil gallery so it may be cleaned.

D-31. ENGINE INSPECTION
AND
REPAIR
The
inspection and repair procedures detailed here­

in
are recommended to be followed when a com­
plete
engine
overhaul is to be made with the
engine

out of the vehicle. These instructions can generally be applied individually with the
engine
in the
vehicle. Wherever the procedure differs due to
the
engine
being in the vehicle, the necessary

special
instructions are provided. Inspection and

repair
instructions are included to cover the

cylinder
block, cylinder head, crankshaft and bearings, connecting rods and bearings, oil pump, valves and tappets, pistons and rings, flywheel,
timing gears, and the camshaft and bearings. In addition, fitting operations for
these
engine
com­

ponents
are included.

Important:
Before the inspection and repair pro­
cedures listed below are begun, the
engine
serial
number must be checked for the presence of
code

letters denoting undersize bearings or oversize
pistons. Refer to Par. D-2.

D-32.
Cylinder
Block

The
cylinder block must be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and repaired as detailed in the following

paragraphs.

D-33.
Cleaning

The
cylinder block may be steam cleaned or cleaned

with
a suitable solvent. A scraper is recommended
to remove
hard
deposits, except on highly finished surfaces. Special attention must be directed to the
cleaning of the oil passages, valve chamber,
crank­

case, and cylinder walls to remove all sludge,
dirt

and
carbon deposits. After cleaning, use air pressure to dry the block thoroughly.
D-34. Inspection

Examine
the cylinder block for minute cracks and

fractures.
Rusted valve springs or evidence of rust

in
the valve chamber or the cylinder walls is a
good

indication of a possible
crack
in the block,

a.
Examine all machined surfaces of the cylinder block for
burrs
and scores.
Check
for cylinder block
distortion by placing a straight
edge
along the
length of the cylinder head surface of the block.
With
a feeler
gauge,
check for clearance
between
the straight
edge
and the block, particularly be­
tween adjacent cylinders. Maximum permissible
out of line for service is .010"
[0,254
mm.] over the
full
length of the block. 45

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-l
13
HURRICHNE
F4
ENGINE
SPECIFICATIONS
(Continued)

MODEL:
CONNECTING
RODS:
Material.

Weight
Length
(center to
center)......

Bearing:
Type.
Material

Length
Over
All
Clearance
Limits.
..........
Undersize
Bearings
Available

End
Play

Installation

Bore:
Upper

Lower

CRANKSHAFT:
Material....................

End
Thrust

End
Play
Main
Bearings:
Type.
Material

Clearance

Undersize
Bearings
Available

Journal
Diameter

Bearing
Length:
Front.
No.
2. . .

No.
3

Out
of
round
and out of taper
limits

Direction
of
Cylinder
Offset..........

Amount
of
Cylinder
Offset
Crankpin
Journal
Diameter

Flywheel
Run Out
(max.)
ENGLISH

CAMSHAFT:
Bearings:
Material..........
Number

Clearance.

Journal
Diameter:

Front Front
Intermediate.
Rear
Intermediate..
Rear

Bearing
Diameter:

Front Front
Intermediate.
Rear
Intermediate..

Rear

End
Play
Drive:

Type.............
Crankshaft
Gear.
. .

Camshaft
Gear

VALVE
SYSTEM:
Valve
Rotators
Tappets:
Clearance
—
Cold:

Intake

Exhaust

Clearance
for
Timing
(intake).
SAE
1141
Forged
Steel
32 oz.
9.187"

Removable

Steel-backed
Babbitt
1.089" to 1.099"
.001"
to .0019"
.001" .002"
.010"
.012" .020" .030"
.004"
to .010"
From
Above

.8115"
to .8125"

2.0432"
to 2.0440"

SAE
1040
Forged
Steel
Front
Bearing
.004*
to .006*

Removable

Steel-backed
Babbitt
.0003"
to .0029*
.001"
.002" .010"
.012" .020"
.030"

2.333"
to 2.334"
1.64"
1.72"
1.66"
.001"

Right
.125"

1.9375" to
1,9383
.005"

Steel-backed
Babbitt
(Front
only) 4

.001"
to .0025"
2.1860" to 2.1855"

2.1225"
to 2.1215"
2.0600" to 2.0590" 1.6230" to 1.6225"
2.1870" to 2.1890"
2.125"
to 2.126"

2.0625"
to 2.0635"
1.625" to 1.626"
.004*
to .007"

Helical
Gear
Cast
Iron

Pressed
Fiber-Steel
Hub

On
Exhaust
Valve

.018*
.016* .026"
METRIC

907
gr.
23,33 cm.
2,766 a 2,791 cm.
0,025 a 0,0483 mm.
0,025 mm. 0,051 mm.

0,254
mm.
0,305 mm. 0,508 mm.
0,762 mm.
0,102 a
0,254
mm.
20,612 a 20,637 mm. 5,1897 a 5,1917 cm.
0,102 a 0,152 mm,
0,0076 a 0,0736 mm. 0,025 mm.
0,051 mm.
0,254
mm.
0,305 mm.
0,508 mm.
0,762 mm.

5,9261
a 5,9286 cm.
4,16 cm.
4,36 cm.
4,21 cm.
0,025 mm.
3,175 mm.
4,9213 a 4,9233 cm. 0,127 mm.
0,025 a
0,063
mm.
5,5524 a
5,5511
cm.

5,3911
a 5,3886 cm.
5,2324 a 5,2298 cm.
4,1224 a
4,1211
cm.
5,5549 a 5,5600 cm.
5,3975 a 5,4000 cm. 5,2387 a 5,2412 cm.
4,1275 a 4,1300 cm. 0,101 a 0,178 mm.
0,461 mm. 0,406 mm.

0,660
mm. 72

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl
size have
been
selected. If necessary, check or
select

connecting rod bearings as described in Par. Dl-49.

Note:
When a piston and connecting rod assembly
is properly installed, the oil spurt
hole
in the con­ necting rod
will
face the camshaft. The rib on the

edge
of the bearing cap
will
be on the same side
as the conical
boss
on the connecting rod web;
these
marks (rib and boss)
will
be toward the other
connecting rod on the same crankpin. The notch
on the piston
will
face the front of the
engine.

a.
Be certain that cylinder bores, pistons, connect­
ing rod bearings and crankshaft journals are absolutely clean. Coat all bearing surfaces with

engine
oil.
b. Before installing a piston and connecting rod as­
sembly into its bore, rotate the crankshaft so that
the corresponding crankpin is moved downward, away from the cylinder bore.
c. Remove bearing cap from connecting rod. With
upper bearing half seated in connecting rod, install connecting rod guides. These
guides
hold the upper
bearing half in place and prevent damage to the

crankshaft
crankpin during installation of the con­
necting rod and piston assembly.

d.
Be certain that the gap in the oil ring rails faces

upward,
toward center of
engine.
Gaps of the com­
pression rings shall not be aligned with each other

or
with the oil ring
rails.

e. Lubricate the piston and rings. Compress the
rings with a suitable piston ring compressor; install
the piston and connecting rod assembly from top of cylinder bore. Refer to Fig. Dl-33.

f.
Install
bearing cap, with lower bearing half, on connecting rod. Torque bolt nuts to 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].
g.
Install
all other piston and connecting rod as­
semblies in same manner.

h.
Check
end clearance
between
connecting rods
on each crankpin with a feeler
gauge.
Clearance should be .005,/ to .012" [0,127 a
0,305
mm.].

Dl-76.
Install
Oil
Pump
Intake
Pipe
and
Screen Assembly

Check
mating surfaces of oil pump intake pipe

and
engine
cylinder block to be certain that they

are
clean. Secure the pipe and screen assembly,
with a new gasket, to
engine
cylinder block with two attaching screws. See Fig. Dl-34. Torque screws 6 to 9 lb-ft. [0,83 a 1,24 kg-m.].

Dl-77.
Install
Oil Pan

Refer
to Fig. Dl-35.

Be
certain the flange surface of oil pan and cor­
responding surface of
engine
cylinder block are
clean.
Install
a new oil pan gasket on the cylinder
block.
Secure
oil pan to cylinder block with mount­ ing bolts. Torque
bolts
10 to 15 lb-ft [1,4 a 2,1

kg-m.].

Dl-78.
Install
Flywheel

Refer
to Fig. Dl-7.

a.
Check
flywheel flange of
engine
crankshaft and corresponding surface of flywheel to
be
certain that
FIG.
Dl-33—INSTALLING
PISTON
AND

CONNECTING
ROD
ASSEMBLY
1—Ring
Compressor

FIG.
Dl-34-^-OIL
PUMP
INTAKE PIPE
AND

SCREEN
INSTALLATION
1—Pipe and Screen
97

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
sibility
of the cable shorting at the
engine
or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition

wire
to the solenoid
post
and remove the two screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b.
To install the solenoid switch reverse the re­

moval
procedure given above.

H-10S.
STARTING MOTOR
—
DELCO
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Refer
to Fig. H-45.

The
starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 en­

gine
has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into
engagement
with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the
engine
and then
closes
the electrical
circuit
to cause
engine
cranking. When the
engine

starts,
the overrunning clutch
disengages
to pre­ vent transfer of
engine
speed to the starting motor.

Note:
Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement

with
original equipment parts; however, should the need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy
starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness
does
not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.

purple
conduit wire 70 inches long, must be in­

stalled.
Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness
contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.

H-109.
Starting Motor Disassembly
a.
Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead

terminal
with piece of
hose
or tape to prevent
short circuiting.
Note
locations of wiring connec­
tions to assure proper reconnection. Remove the cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.

b.
Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,

which
passes through grommet at top of motor,
from
motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two
thru

bolts
from motor. Remove commutator end frame

and
field frame assembly from solenoid and drive assembly.
e.
Pull
out pivot pins of brush holders and remove each of two brush holder and spring assemblies

from
field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.

d.
Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive
housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust

washer
from
opposite
end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from
armature,
place

a
metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion
stop
retainer. Tap
retainer
toward armature to
expose
snap ring as
shown in
Fig.
H-47. Remove snap ring from
groove
in
shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly

from
shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,

f.
Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive
housing remove switch. Remove small nut

and
insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the
sole­

noid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,

and
return spring.
12765
FIG.
H-47—REMOVING PINION
DRIVE
ASSEMBLY

FROM
ARMATURE SHAFT

1— XA ' Pipe Coupling

2—
Snap
Ring
and Retainer

3—
Armature
Shaft
4—
Drive
Assembly
H-110.
Starting
Motor
Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The
arma­
ture,
field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method.
This
might damage insulation so that a
short
circuit
or ground would subsequently develop.
It
would also remove lubricant originally packed

in
the overrunning clutch so that clutch would

soon
be ruined.

b.
Carefully
inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserv­
iceable parts. Any soldering must be
done
with

rosin
flux.

Note:
Never use acid flux when solding any elec­

trical
connections and never use emery cloth to
clean
armature
commutator or other
electrical
units. 208

CLUTCH

©—*

11378

FIG.
1-5—ADJUSTING
AUBURN
CLUTCH
LEVERS

1—
Gauge
5—Mounting Bolt

2—
Clutch
Lever
6—Clutch
Pressure
Plate

3—
Adjusting
Screw
7—Thickness
Spacer

4—
Locknut
8—Clutch
Adjusting
Fixture
spacer thickness and
gauge
length is listed in

Par.
1-30. Use
Clutch
Adjusting Fixture W-296
and
proceed as follows:

a.
Place the thickness spacers
between
the pressure
plate face and clutch adjusting fixture. Locate the spacers under the pressure plate levers and at the
center of the pressure plate face, see Fig. 1-5.
b. With the spacers properly installed, bolt the
pressure plate to the adjusting fixture.
Draw
the

bolts
down evenly a little at a time until they are
tight.
c. Using the proper
gauge
length check the lever adjustment as shown in Fig. 1-4.

d.
Lever
adjustment can be altered by removing
the lever clips, loosening the locknut and turning
the adjusting screw (Fig. 1-5) in or out as required.
FIG.
1-6—REMOVING
PILOT
BUSHING
1—
Flywheel

2—
Pilot
Bushing

3—
Pilot
Bushing Remover 1-8. Pilot Bushing Inspection and Replacement

•
F4 and V-6 Engine.
Inspect the transmission main shaft pilot bushing

which
is pressed into the center of the flywheel on
the Hurricane F4
engine
and in the center of the
crankshaft
on the Dauntless V-6 engine. If the bushing is worn or damaged, it should be removed,
using a pilot bushing remover. Screw the tapered end of the tool into the damaged bushing, allowing
the tool to cut its own threads until a solid grip is obtained. Insert the puller screw and rotate it
until
bushing is forced out of flywheel, Fig. 1-6 or

crankshaft.

To
install a new bushing, slide the bushing
onto

the end of a pilot bushing installing and burnishing tool and insert the bushing into flywheel or
crank­
shaft. A
soft
hammer can be used against the tool
to help drive the bushing in place. When the tool
is removed (by tightening the cap and pressure
nut as shown in Fig. 1-7), the bushing
will
be
burnished
to correct size. Apply a small amount of

lubricant
to the bushing bore.
FIG.
1-7—INSTALLING
PILOT
BUSHING
1—
Pilot
Bushing
Installing
and
Burnishing
Tool

2—
Flywheel
1-9.
Clutch
Installation

a.
Inspect
Clutch
Disc
Before the clutch disc is installed, it should be
carefully
inspected for warpage. If grease or oil is evident on the friction facings, the facings should
be replaced and the cause of oil accumulation cor­ rected. Excessively worn facings should also be
replaced with factory recommended parts.
b. Inspect
Clutch
Release Bearing and Sleeve

The
clutch release bearing and
sleeve
are attached to the front facing of the transmission case by a

spring.
Check
the bearing and
sleeve
for evidence
of grease leaks from within the bearing or for wear

and
looseness.
Replace parts as necessary. 228

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

I thickness: .285"
[0,724
cm.], .305"
[0,775
cm.].

Each
spacer should be hardened and ground to size, and then have the dimensional thickness
stamped thereon.

c.
From
flat bar stock at least Vfe" [3 mm.] thick,
make a
gauge
as shown in Fig. 1-22. Harden, grind
to size, and stamp sizes on the
gauge.

1-27.
Clutch Installation

a.
Very
sparingly, apply wheel bearing lubricant
to inner surface of pilot bushing in crankshaft.

Caution:
If
excessive
lubricant is applied to pilot bushing, it
will
run out on face of flywheel when
hot and
ruin
the driven plate facings.
b. Make sure that splines in the driven plate hub
are
clean; apply a light coat of lubricant to splines
of hub and transmission drive gear shaft. Slide plate over gear shaft several times; remove plate
from shaft and wipe off
excess
lubricant.

Caution:
Driven plate facings must be kept clean

and
dry.

c.
Fill
groove
in throwout bearing collar with wheel bearing lubricant. See Fig. 1-23. Make sure
that front bearing retainer of transmission is clean;
apply a light coat of wheel bearing lubricant. Slide
throwout bearing over bearing retainer several times. Remove bearing from retainer and wipe off

excess
lubricant.

12736
FIG.
1-23—LUBRICATION
POINTS
—

CLUTCH
THROWOUT
BEARING
COLLAR

1—Coat
This
Groove 2—Pack
This
Recess
d.
Clean
and apply wheel bearing lubricant to ball
stud in flywheel housing and to the
seat
in clutch

fork.

e.
If disassembled, install pressure plate in the cover assembly, lining up the
groove
on its
edge

with the
groove
on the
edge
of the cover.
Install

pressure plate retracting springs, and the three
drive
strap-to-pressure plate
bolts
and lock washers.

Torque
bolts
11 lb-ft. [1,51 kg-m.].

Note:
The diaphragm
type
clutch assembly is fac­
tory calibrated and requires no adjustment
before
installation. Refer to Par. 1-14 to adjust Borg and

Beck
coil spring
type
clutch assembly.
f.
Install
the pressure plate and driven plate on
flywheel. Support both assemblies with a spare
main
drive gear.

Note:
Be certain that
mark
on clutch cover is
aligned with the
mark
made on the flywheel during
clutch removal.
g.
Install
clutch attaching
bolts
and tighten alter­ nately so that clutch is drawn squarely
into
position
on flywheel.
Each
bolt
must be
tightened
one turn at a time to avoid bending the clutch cover flange.

Torque
bolts
30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].

h.
Lubricate
the ball stud and clutch fork with
wheel bearing lubricant and install clutch fork.

Note:
Be certain that fork retaining spring is
tight

on pivot ball stud.

i.
Install
flywheel housing on
engine
cylinder
block.

Caution:
Be certain that dowel pins are installed

in
cylinder block.

j.
Lubricate
the recess on the inside of the throw-
out bearing collar. Be careful not to use too much
lubricant.
See Fig. 1-23.

Caution:
Make certain that the lips of the spring
retainer (attached to the clutch fork) are in
groove
of the bearing. See Fig. 1-24.
k.
Install
throwout bearing assembly and connect
clutch linkage.
I.
Install
transmission as described in Section J. m. Adjust clutch for %"
[19,05
mm.] free travel,
see
Par.
1-3. 235

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

I
1-28.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE
REMEDY

Slipping:
Improper Pedal Adjustment Adjust Pedal Free
Travel

Weak Pressure Springs Replace
Lining
Oil Soaked Install New Driven Plate
Worn
Linings or
Torn
Loose from Plate Install New Driven Plate
Burned Clutch Replace

Grabbing
or
Chattering:
Gummy or Worn Linings Install New Driven Plate
Loose Engine
Mountings
Tighten Scored or Broken Pressure Plate Install New Pressure Plate
Improper Clutch Finger Adjustment............ Readjust

Clutch
Plate Crimp or Cushion Flattened Out.... Replace Driven Plate
Dragging: Too Much Pedal Play. Adjust Improper Finger Adjustment. Readjust
Pressure Plate Binds in Bracket Adjust
Warped Pressure or Driven Plate Replace
Torn
or Loose Clutch Facing. Replace

Rattling:
Broken or Weak Return Springs in Driven Plate.. Replace

Worn
Throwout Bearing Replace
Fingers Improperly Adjusted Readjust

Worn
Driven Plate Hub of Transmission Main Gear Shaft.............. Replace
Pilot Bushings in Flywheel Worn.
.............
Replace
Pilot Bushing in Crankshaft Worn Replace
1-29.
CLUTCH
SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE
HURRICANE
F4
DAUNTLESS
V-6

DAUNTLESS
V-6

EARLY
MODELS
LATE
MODELS

Pressure Plate;
Auburn
G.M.

Borg and Beck
Type
Single
Dry Plate
Single
Plate, Dry Disc.

Single
Plate, Dry Disc.
No. of Springs 3 Diaphragm Type

Coil
Spring Type (9)

Total
Plate Pressure 1150 lb.
[521,6
kg.]
1600 lb. [725 kg.] 1765 lb. [800 kg.]
Driven Plate Make
Auburn
or Borg & Beck
G.M.

Borg and Beck
Facings Woven
Asbestos
Woven
Asbestos

Woven
Asbestos

Diameter 9.25" [23,4 cm.] 10.4" [26,4 cm.]
10.4" [26,4 cm.]
Thickness .125" [3,17 mm.] .135" [3,38 mm.]
.135" [3,38 mm.]
Torque Capacity 216 lb-ft.
[29,87
kg-m.]
246 lb-ft.
[34.01
kg-m.]

250 lb-ft.
[34,57
kg-m]

Clutch
Release Bearing: Sealed
Ball
Bearing

.
Type Sealed
Ball
Bearing Sealed
Ball
Bearing Sealed
Ball
Bearing

.
Type
Prelubricated Prelubricated
Prelubricated

Clutch
Pilot Bushing:
In
Crankshaft

In
Flywheel
In
Crankshaft
In
Crankshaft

Material
Bronze Bronze
Bronze
Size.
I.D.
.628" [15,9 mm.]
I.D.
.592"
[18,05
mm.]

I.D.
.592"
[18,05
mm.]

Clutch
Pedal Adjustment. .. W
[19,05
mm.]
%n
[19,05
mm.]

%n
[19,05
mm.]
1-30.
CLUTCH
ADJUSTING
FIXTURE
DATA

Manufacturer Disc Diameter Spacer Thickness Gauge Length

Auburn
9j£"
[23,4 cm.]
10.4" [26,4 cm.] .285"
.305"

0,723
cm.]

0,774
cm.]
mtf
[4,9 cm.]
2.0" [5,08 cm.]

9j£"
[23,4 cm.]
10.4" [26,4 cm.] .285"
.305"

0,723
cm.]

0,774
cm.]
mtf
[4,9 cm.]
2.0" [5,08 cm.]

p

BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming to
SAE-J1703
specification.

P-7.
Bleeding
Brakes

The
hydraulic
brake system must be bled whenever

a
fluid line has been disconnected or air
gets
into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal.
Air trapped in the system is compressible

and
does
not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake
pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from
air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the
longest
line from the master
FIG.
P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES

1—Bleeder
Screw
cylinder
first, the next
longest
second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least %
full
of hydraulic brake fluid.

To
bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all
dirt

from
around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers in­
structions.
Remove the filler plug and
fill
the master
cylinder
to the lower
edge
of filler neck.
Clean
off

all
bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.

Attach
bleeder
hose
and fixture to right
rear
wheel

cylinder
bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a
turn.

See
Fig.
P-5.
Depress the
foot
pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid
through the line and out of the bleeder
hose
which
carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After
the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed,
fill
the master cylinder reser­
voir
and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed

from
the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and
dirt.

P-8.
Brake Hoses

a.
Hydraulic
lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.

Note:
On
some
vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the
rear
brake line along the inside left
frame
side
rail.
The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.

Should
replacement be necessary make certain the valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical
position. Refer to Fig. P-l.

The
hoses
are the flexible links between the wheels

or
axles and the frame or body. The
hoses
must

withstand
the fluid pressures without expansion
and
must be free to flex during spring deflection
and
wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.

b.
Hydraulic
lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,

chafing,
cracks,
twists and
loose
frame supports.

Hydraulic
tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or
loose
connections);

restrictions
(due to dents or corrosion); and wear (due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.

Avoid
damage to female fittings by supporting fit­
ting with tube nut during removal of assembly.

c.
On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a
new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a
good
seal if reused.

d.
When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose
to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach
opposite
end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid
twists in
hose
when assembling to frame fitting
or
tubing. Hold
hose
end securely with

wrench
while attaching tubing to hose. If
hose
end
clip
is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.

Check
for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.

e.
Check
for any possible contact between front

brake
hose
and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum
turn
position.
Check
for sufficient but not excessive length of
hose
between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from
one extreme
turn
position to the otherl
f.
Check
that there is no possibility of any contact between the
tail
pipe and
rear
brake
hose
under
all
operating conditions.
P-9.
Brake Pedal Adjustment

There
should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod
engages
the master cylinder piston.

This
adjustment is accomplished by shortening or 326

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

P

FIG.
P-9—WHEEL HUB OIL
SEAL
DRIVER
•
Removing the
Rear
Brake
Shoes.

•
Refer to Fig. P-ll.

a.
Using Tool C-3785 or equivalent remove the
upper linkage rod and brake
shoe
return springs.
b. Remove the brake
shoe
retainer, spring and pins.
c. Remove the anchor pin plate and tilt the brake

shoe
assembly out from the backing plate.

d.
On vehicles without a transmission brake,
spread the anchor
ends
of the primary and second­

ary
shoes
and remove the parking brake strut and
spring.

e. On vehicles without a transmission brake, dis­

engage
the parking brake cable from the parking
brake
lever and remove the brake assembly.
f. Overlap the anchor
ends
of the primary and
secondary
shoes
and remove the adjusting screw,
adjusting lever, lower return spring, and linkage
rods.
P-17. Inspection
Inspect the oil seals in the wheel hubs. If the con­
dition of any oil seal is doubtful, replace it. Install
the oil seal with an oil seal driver as shown in Fig.

P-9.

Brake
shoes
may be distorted by improper lining installation and linings should be ground true. For
this reason it is recommended that new or re­
placement
shoe
and lining assemblies be installed.
Using
brake drum micrometer C-3920 or equi­
valent, check all drums. Should a brake drum be rough and scored, it may be reconditioned by grinding or turning in a lathe. Do not remove more
than .030"
[0,762
mm.] thickness of metal .060" [1,52 mm.] overall diameter. If a drum is recon­
ditioned in this manner, either the correct factory-
supplied, oversize lining .030"
[0,762
mm.] must be
installed or a shim equal in thickness to the metal
removed must be placed
between
the lining and

shoe
so that the arc of the lining
will
be the same
as that of the drum.

If
it is found when
wheels
are removed that there
is brake fluid leakage at any of the wheel cylinders, it
will
be necessary to replace or recondition the
wheel cylinder (Par. P-21) and bleed the brake lines (Par. P-7).
Whenever the brake lining is replaced in one front
or one rear wheel, be sure to perform the same
operation in the
opposite
front or rear wheel, us­
ing the same brake lining part number. Otherwise, unequal brake action
will
result.
FIG.
P-10—STANDARD
FRONT
WHEEL
BRAKE

ASSEMBLY
WITH
LINK
TYPE
ADJUSTER 1—
Primary
Shoe
6—Lever
Plate

2—
Wheel
Cylinder
7—Linkage Rod (Upper)

3—
Secondary
Shoe 8—Screw
4—
Adjuster
Screw Assembly 9—Linkage Rod
(Lower)
5— Sleeve 10—Adjuster
Lever

P-18.
Brake
Shoe Installation

Refer
to Fig. P-10.

INSTALLING
THE
FRONT
BRAKE
SHOES

To
install the front brake
shoes
proceed as follows:

a.
Match a primary with a secondary brake
shoe
and
place them in their relative position on a

work
bench.

Note:
Primary
brake linings are color coded red

and
green. Secondary brake linings are color coded
white and green.
b. Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw

and
install it
between
the primary and secondary

shoes.
The star adjusting
wheels
are stamped "R"

and
"L"
indicating thread rotation. The
left
front
brake
adjusting screw has right hand thread rota­
tion and the right front brake adjusting screw has
left
hand thread rotation. 329