oil pressure JEEP DJ 1953 Workshop Manual

E

FUEL
SYSTEM
taching screws and valve housing from the fuel
pump body.

c.
Remove the two screws in the valve housing
and
separate the filter cover and air
dome
dia­
phragm.

d.
Remove the cam lever return spring, plug,
cam
lever pin, and cam lever from the pump body.

Tap
the cam lever pin out of body, using a drift
inserted through the small
hole
in the pump body.
e. Remove diaphragm from pump body.
f. Under normal service, the pump may be cleaned without further disassembly.

Note:
The oil seal (at top of spring in diaphragm
assembly) seals the spring side of the fuel
dia­
phragm
from the crankcase. Any deposit, in
excess

of a few drops, of oil on the diaphragm indicates leakage past the oil seal. Be sure the seat for the

seal
in the pump body is clean and smooth.

E-63.
Fuel
Pump Cleaning and Inspection

Caution:
Do not immerse valves or diaphragm
in
cleaning solvent; wipe clean.

Clean
all metal parts of the fuel pump in solvent.
Brush
with a stiff-bristled
brush.
Dry with com­
pressed
air.
Check
all parts to see that they are not
cracked
or broken and that the screw threads are
not damaged.

E-64.
Fuel
Pump Reassembly
•
Refer to Fig. E-32.

a.
Assemble the valve housing and filter cover, using a new air
dome
diaphragm. The opening

in
the air
dome
diaphragm is located over the
intake
valve. The filter cover is positioned cor­
rectly
when the inlet passage in the cover aligns

with
the inlet valve. Tighten the attaching screws
alternately and securely.

b.
Lubricate
diaphragm assembly shaft, around

oil
seal, with
engine
oil. Position diaphragm as­ sembly on valve housing and thread all the attach­ ing screws through diaphragm.
(This
helps avoid
damage to the screw
holes
in diaphragm.)

c.
Place diaphragm assembly and valve housing
in
position on pump body (align marks made
before disassembly).
First
start all screws one

or
two threads; then tighten the screws alternately

and
securely.

d.
Lubricate
forked end of cam lever, pin bore
of body, and corresponding
hole
in lever, and the
pin
itself with
engine
oil.

Note:
Forked
end of lever
goes
around diaphragm
shaft. Be sure
loose
bumper washer on diaphragm shaft is on top of lever and
between
lever and fixed
washer
on shaft.
e.
Install
lever and pin. To install pin, use a drift
and
tap pin into the
hole
in the body until it hits
the
stop
on the
bottom
of the hole;
move
the lever while tapping, to align
hole
in lever with the pin;
then install plug.
Install
lever return spring.
f.
Install
a new filter bowl gasket in filter cover.
Place
bail
assembly in ears on cover and swing
to one side.
Install
spring and new filter element in
bowl and install bowl on pump. Position
bail
as­
sembly under bowl; tighten retainer screw.

Caution:
Do not overtighten screw.

E-65.
Fuel
Pump Installation

a.
Make certain mating surfaces of fuel pump and

engine
cylinder case are clean. Cement a new gasket to mounting flange of fuel pump.

b.
Position fuel pump on cylinder block, so that

cam
lever of pump rests on fuel pump cam of cam­
shaft. Secure pump to block with two cap screws
and
lock washers. Torque
bolts
13 to 17 lb-ft. [1,8
a
2,3 kg-m.].

c.
Connect intake and
outlet
fuel lines to fuel
pump.

E-66.
Fuel
Pump Testing

Whenever
the fuel pump is to be checked for pres­

sure
or volume, follow the procedure outline in

Par.
C-23 of this manual.
Fuel
pump pressure is
important
for low pressure
will
seriously affect en­

gine
operation and high pressure can cause exces­
sive fuel consumption and flooding of the carbure­
tor.
Should there be any doubt of normal opera­
tion, check the procedure as outlined in Par. C-23.
In
addition to proper fuel pressure, volume of the
pump is also important. When testing for proper
pump pressure, be certain to also
test
for volume
as the pump may build up sufficient pressure, but
fail
to produce sufficient volume.

E-67. FUEL
PUMP
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Jeep vehicles equipped with the Dauntless V6-225

engine
have a special fuel pump which has a metering
outlet
for a vapor return system. Any

vapor
which forms is returned to the fuel tank
along with hot fuel through a separate line along­
side the fuel supply line.
This
greatly reduces any
FIG.
E-33—FUEL PUMP—DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE
1
—Fuel
Outlet 2—Vapor
Return
3—Fuel
Inlet

130

F

EXHAUST
SYSTEM
12844

FIG.
F-2—DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
EXHAUST
SYSTEM
—
EARLY
MODEL
1—
Right
Exhaust
Pipe
19—Lockwasher

2—Tall
Pipe 20—Bolt

3—
Bolt
21—Bracket

4—
Bolt
22—Insulator

5—
Muffler
23—Nut 6—
Exhaust
Pipe
Extension
24—Bolt
7—
Crossover
Exhaust
Pipe
25—Clamp

8—
Bracket
26—U-Bolt 9—
Lockwasher
27—Saddle

10—
Nut
28—U-Bolt
11—
Saddle
29—Saddle

12—
Washer
30—Insulator

13—Bolt
31—U-Bolt
14—
Bracket
32—Nut

15—
Reinforcement
3
3—Lockwasher

16—
Nut
34—U-Bolt

17—
Lockwasher
35—Saddle

18—
Nut

gases
into the exhaust pipe.

When
assembling the manifold, to the cylinder
block
(Fig.
F-4)
new gaskets should be installed
and
the nuts drawn up evenly until they are tight
to avoid leakage. Torque manifold nuts to 29-35 lb-ft [4,0 a 4,84 kg-m.].

F-3.
Dauntless
Â¥-6
Engine
Exhaust System

Each
of two cylinder banks of a Dauntless V-6 engine has an exhaust manifold. On late production engines the right exhaust manifold is equipped

with
a heat collector manifold which supplies heated air to the air cleaner. See Fig. F-5.
Each
cylinder
exhausts through its own individual port
into a branch of its exhaust manifold. These
branches
conduct exhaust
gases
into the main mani­
fold branch which connects the exhaust pipe to
the muffler. A thermally-actuated heat control valve is located at the
rear
of the right exhaust

manifold.
This
valve has a bimetal thermostatic
spring
which holds it closed when the engine is

cold.

In
closed position, the valve deflects exhaust
gases

upward
through a passage in the intake manifold to the left exhaust manifold.
This
aids in vaporizing

fuel,
speeds
engine warm-up, and reduces oil
dilution.

Since
the valve plate is offset-mounted, the valve

will
be forced partially open at higher engine speed
and
load.
This
prevents excessive back pressure. 138

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Fl
b. Connect tachometer to
engine.

c.
Warm
up
engine
and stabilize temperatures.

d.
Adjust
engine
idle to
speed
desired, using throt­
tle idle
speed
adjusting screw.

e.
Carburetors without Idle
Limiter
Cap turn idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise) until a
loss

of
engine
speed
is indicated; then, slowly turn mix­
ture screw in (clockwise-leaner) until maximum

speed
(RPM) is reached. Continue turning in (clockwise) until
speed
begins
to drop; turn mixture
adjustment back out (counterclockwise-richer) un­

til
maximum
speed
is just regained at a "lean as
possible" mixture adjustment.

Fl-14.
Distributor

Check
the distributor number for proper appli­
cation.
Check
the distributor cam dwell angle and
point condition and adjust to specifications or re­ place as required. (Specifications listed at the end
of this section)
Check
ignition timing and set at

0°
or
TDC.

Fl-15.
Anti-iackfire
Diverter Valve

The
anti-backfire valve remains closed
except
when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an
open
position.

To
check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the
engine
in neutral, allowing the throttle to
close

rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large
hose
Which
connects to the check valve.
Accelerate the
engine
to allow the throttle to
close

rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily if a
momentary interruption of rushing air is audible.

Fl-16.
Check Valve

The
check valve prevents the reverse flow of ex­
haust
gases
to the pump in the
event
the pump
should, for any reason,
become
inoperative or should exhaust pressure ever
exceed
pump pressure.

To
check this valve for proper operation, remove the air supply
hose
from the pump at the
distri­

bution manifold.
With
the
engine
running, listen for exhaust leakage at the check valve which is
connected to the distribution manifold.

Fl-17.
Air
Pump

Check
for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge
W-283. The belt strand tension should be

50-60
pounds on a belt with previous service, meas­

ured
on the
longest
accessible span
between
two pulleys. When installing a new belt, adjust the
tension to
60-80
pounds tension. DO NOT PRY
ON
THE DIE
CAST
PUMP
HOUSING.

To
check the pump for proper operation, remove the air
outlet
hose
at the pump.
With
the
engine

running,
air discharge should be
felt
at the pump

outlet
opening. The pump
outlet
air pressure, as determined by the relief valve, is preset and is not
adjustable.

The
air pump
rear
cover assembly, housing the pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the pres­
sure relief valve are the only pump
components

recommended for service replacement. These parts
are
to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the
event
the relief valve was
tampered with.

Fl-18.
Carburetor
Air
Cleaner

Every
6000
miles
[9,600
km.] clean the inside
sur­

face at the sump and
refill
to indicated oil level with
SAE
40 or 50
engine
oil
above
32 F; SAE 20

below
32 F. Wash filter
element
in kerosene and

drain.
Reassemble the air cleaner.

More
frequent cleaning and replacement is advis­ able when the car is operated in dusty areas or on
unpaved roads. Accumulated dirt restricts air flow,
reducing fuel
economy
and performance.

Fl-19.
REMOVAL
PROCEDURES

The
following paragraphs
give
the procedures for removing the major units of the Exhaust Emission

Control
System and the required equipment
needed.

Fl-20.
Air
Pump

Loosen
the air pump adjusting strap to facilitate

drive
belt removal. Remove the air pump air dis­
charge hose(s) and air filter attachment. Separate
the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time of installation, torque tighten the air pump mount­ing
bolts
to
30-40
lbs-ft. [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.]. Adjust
the belt strand tension to
50-60
pounds on a belt
with previous service and
60-80
pounds on a new
belt.

Fl-21.
Anti-Backfire
Diverter Valve

The
anti-backfire diverter valve removal requires disconnecting the
hoses
and bracket to
engine
at­
taching screws.

Fl-22.
Air
Distribution
Manifold
and
Injection Tubes

In
order to remove the air distribution manifold
without bending the tubing, which could result in
fractures
or leakage, it is necessary to remove the
exhaust manifold as an assembly from the
engine.

After
the exhaust manifold assembly is removed
from
the
engine,
place the manifold in a vise and

loosen
the air distribution manifold
tube
retaining nuts at each cylinder exhaust port. Tap the injec­
tion
tubes
lightly to allow the air distribution mani­
fold to be pulled away partially from the exhaust manifold. The stainless steel injection
tubes
in the
exhaust manifold may have
become
partially fused
to the air distribution manifold and, therefore, may
require
application of heat to the joint in order to
separate. While applying heat to the joint, rotate
the injection
tubes
with pliers being careful not to
damage the
tubes
by applying excessive force.

At
time of installation, the air injection
tubes
must
be positioned into the exhaust manifold prior to
placing the exhaust manifold assembly on the en­ gine.

Note:
Two different length injection
tubes
are used.

The
shorter length injection
tubes
must be inserted into cylinders 1 and 4. 145

F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
the throttle
stop
screw to idle the
engine
at 650
to 700 rpm.

F2-17. Carburetor Idle Setting
The
"Lean
Best
Idle"
Method of Idle Setting is as
follows:

a.
Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment

b.
Connect tachometer to engine.

c.
Warm
up
engine
and stabilize temperatures.

d.
Adjust
engine
idle to speed desired, using throt­
tle idle speed adjusting screw.
e.
Turn
idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise)

until
a
loss
of
engine
speed is indicated; then slowly
turn
mixture screws in (clockwise-leaner)
until
maximum speed (rpm) is reached. Continue

turning
in (clockwise) until speed begins to drop;

turn
mixture adjustment back out (counterclock­
wise-richer)
until maximum speed is just regained

at
a "lean as possible" mixture adjustment.

F2-18. Distributor
The
ignition distributor used with the
Exhaust
Emission
Control
System is the same as that used
on
engines
without
Exhaust
Emission
Control.
Check
the distributor cam dwell angle and point
condition.
Check
ignition timing and adjust to specifications shown on the last
page
of this section.

F2-19.
Anti-Backfire
Valve

The
anti-backfire valve remains closed except when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an open position.
To
check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the
engine
in neutral, allowing the throttle to close

rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can
be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large
hose
which connects the valve to the

pump.
With
a finger placed over the open end of
the
hose
(not the valve), accelerate the
engine
and allow the throttle to close rapidly. The valve is
operating satisfactorily if a momentary air rushing
noise is audible.

F2-20.
Check
Valve

The
check valves in the lines to the air distribution manifolds prevent the reverse flow of exhaust
gases

to the pump in the event the pump should, for

any
reason,
become
inoperative or should exhaust

pressure
ever exceed pump pressure.

To
check this valve for proper operation, remove the air supply
hose
from the pump at the check

valve.
With
the
engine
running, listen for exhaust
leakage at the check valve which is connected to
the distribution manifold.

F2-21.
Air
Pump

Check
for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge
W-283. The belt strand tension should be 60 pounds measured on the
longest
accessible span
between two pulleys. DO NOT PRY ON THE

DIE
CAST
PUMP
HOUSING. To
check the pump for proper operation, remove
the air
outlet
hose
at the pump.
With
the
engine

running,
air discharge should be felt at one of
the pump
outlet
openings. The pump
outlet
air
pressure,
as determined by the relief valve, is preset
and
is not adjustable.

The
air pump
rear
cover assembly, housing the pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the pres­
sure
relief valve are the only pump components
recommended for service replacement. These parts
are
to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the event the relief valve was
tampered with.

F2-22.
Intake Manifold

Intake
manifold leaks must not be overlooked. Air
leakage at the intake manifold may be compen­
sated for by
richer
idle mixture setting, however, this
will
usually cause uneven fuel-air distribution
and
will
always result in
loss
of performance and
exhaust emission control. To check for air leakage
into the intake manifold, apply kerosene or naph­
tha,
on the intake manifold to cylinder head joints

and
observe whether any changes in
engine
rpm

occur.
If an air leak is indicated, check the mani­
fold to cylinder head bolt torque. The correct torque is 25-35 lbs. ft. [3,46 a 4,84 kg-m.]. If the

leak
is
still
evident,
loosen
the manifold assembly

and
torque-tighten the bolts evenly.
Start
from the center and use proper torque values. Replace the
manifold
gasket if the leak
still
exists.
Clean
both
mating surfaces and check for
burrs
or other ir­

regularities.

Always
torque the bolts evenly to the specified
torque value to prevent warpage.

F2-23.
Carburetor
Air
Cleaner
—Oil
Bath

Every
6,000
miles [9,600 km.] disconnect attach­

ing
hoses
and unscrew the wing nut from the top
of the air cleaner and lift it off the carburetor.

Lift
the cover and filter element off the oil sump.

Clean
the inside surface of the sump and
refill
to

indicated
oil level with SAE 40 or 50
engine
oil
above 32 F; SAE 20 below 32 F.
Wash
filter element in kerosene and
drain.
Reassemble the air

cleaner
and install on carburetor.

More
frequent cleaning and replacement are advis­ able when the car is operated in dusty areas or on

unpaved
roads. Accumulated
dirt
restricts air flow,
reducing
fuel economy and performance.

F2-24.
REMOVAL PROCEDURES
The
following paragraphs
give
the procedures for removing the major units of the exhaust emission
control
system and the required equipment needed.

F2-2S.
Air
Pump

Loosen
the air pump mounting bracket bolts. Re­ move the air pump air hose(s). Separate the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time of install­
ation,
torque tighten the air pump mounting bolts
to
30-40
lbs.-ft [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.].
Adjust
the
belt strand tension to 60 pounds. 156

G
COOLING SYSTEM
engine
connections. Insert flushing gun and flush
heater core.
Care
must be taken when applying air
pressure to prevent damage to the heater core.

G-2.
Filling
Cooling System
To
fill
the cooling system, remove the
fill
cap and

fill
the tank to the top. Replace the cap and run
the
engine
at medium speed for approximately one
minute. Remove the cap and recheck the coolant level. Add more coolant if necessary to bring the level back to the top of the tank. If the cooling system is filled when the
engine
is cold, recheck the coolant level after the
engine
has warmed up.
This

will
ensure that the thermostat has opened allow­ ing complete cooling system circulation.

Always
correct any cooling system leaks before installing antifreeze. A corrosion inhibitor should be used in the cooling system to prevent the forma­
tion of rust and scale. A quality brand antifreeze containing a corrosion inhibitor should be used.

When
the antifreeze is drained in the spring, a
corrosion inhibitor should be added with the water.

Note:
Cooling system components for both V6 and

F4
engines
are shown in
Figs.
G-2 and G-3.

G-3. Draining
Cooling System

To
completely
drain
the cooling system, open the

drain
in the
bottom
of the radiator and also a

drain
on the right side of the cylinder block on the
Hurricane
F4 engine. The Dauntless V-6
engine

has two
drain
plugs, one located on each side of the cylinder block. Both plugs must be removed to
completely
drain
the cooling system.
Remove the radiator cap to break any vacuum
that may have developed.

Should
the cooling solution be lost from the system

and
the
engine
become
overheated do not
refill

the system immediately but allow the
engine
to cool or
refill
slowly while the
engine
is running. If
cold solution is poured into the radiator while the

engine
is overheated there is danger of cracking the

cylinder
block and/or cylinder head.
G-4.
Radiator Pressure
Cap

All
radiators are equipped with pressure caps which
reduce evaporation of cooling solution and make the
engines
more efficient by permitting slightly
higher operating temperatures. When operating
properly,
the pressure cap permits pressure build-up

in
the cooling system during periods of severe heat

load.
This
pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant and thus reduces overflow losses. The

effectiveness
of the cap is limited by its opening
pressure and the boiling point of the coolant (see
note
below). The pressure cap employs a spring-
loaded, rubber-faced pressure seal which presses against a seat in the radiator top tank. Spring pres­

sure
determines the opening pressure of the valve.

A
typical pressure cap is shown in Fig. G-5.

Note:
Refer to cooling system specifications (Par.

G-21)
for opening (relief) pressure when the ve­
hicle is equipped with either the
Hurricane
F4
or
Dauntless V-6 engine. If a new cap is required, always install a cap of the same type and pressure
rating
specified. It should never be altered or re­
placed by a plain cap.

A
vacuum release valve (Fig. G-5) is employed to
prevent undesirable vacuum build-up when the system
cools
down. The vacuum release valve is
held against its seat under light spring pressure.

Vacuum
in the system is relieved by the valve
which
opens
at V2 to 1 psi. [0,035 a 0,07 kg-cm2]

vacuum.
A pressure tester can be used to check and
test
the vacuum pressure rate (see Fig. G-6).
Although the mechanism of the pressure cap re­ quires no maintenance, the cap should be inspected
periodically for cleanliness and freedom of opera­ tion. The pressure cap gasket and radiator filler neck seat should also be inspected to be sure they

are
providing a proper seal. If the rubber face of
the valve is defective, a new cap should be installed.
Filler
neck reseating
tools
are commercially
avail­
able to correct minor
defects
at the surface of the seat. Follow instructions of the reseating tool manu­

facturer.

To
remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine
coolant temperature is high or boiling, place

a
cloth over the pressure cap and
turn
counter­ clockwise about Vi
turn
until the first (pressure release)
stop
is reached. Keep the cap in this posi­
tion until all pressure is released.
Then
push cap
down and
turn
still
further until cap can be re­ moved. To install the pressure cap, place it in posi­
tion and
turn
it clockwise as far as it
will
go.

Caution:
Use extreme care in removing the radiator
pressure cap. In overheated systems, the sudden release of pressure can cause a steam flash and this

flash,
or the
loosened
cap can cause serious personal

injury.

G-5.
RADIATOR

Maintenance of the radiator consists of keeping
the exterior of the radiator core clean, the interior free from rust and scale, and the radiator free from

leaks.
Check
the cooling system fluid level and for
leaks each
2000
miles
[3.200
km.] or every 30
days, whichever occurs first.
This
exterior of the

radiator
core should be cleaned and the radiator inspected for leaks each
6000
miles
[9.600
km.]
of normal service of the vehicle. Cleaning should be performed by blowing out with air stream or water stream directed from the
rear
of the radiator.

Visual
inspection is not sufficient as the accumula­ tion of small particles of foreign material on core
surfaces can restrict cooling without closing the core openings.

Radiator
leakage occasionally results from cor­
rosion perforation of the metal but most leakage results from mechanical failure of soldered joints
when too much strain has been put on the joint.
Fractures
occur most
often
at the joint where the
radiator
inlet and
outlet
pipes are attached to the

tanks.
When the seams break, the entire soldered

joint
is
exposed
and can corrode, but breakage
rather
than corrosion is the
primary
cause of seam
leakage. Examine the radiator carefully for leaks before and after cleaning. Cleaning may uncover points of leakage already existing but plugged with
rust.
White, rusty, or colored leakage stains indicate 164

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

G
cation period. It is
good
preventive maintenance to
replace a badly frayed, worn or cracked fan belt
before it breaks in operation.

To
replace the fan belt,
loosen
the attaching
bolts

at each generator or alternator brace-to-engine mounting and pivot the alternator or generator to­

ward
the
engine
to gain slack needed to install the new belt Remove the old belt. Position the new
belt over the fan pulley, over the crankshaft pulley,
then over the generator or alternator pulley.
Pull
the generator or alternator away from the
engine

until
belt tension is
firm.
Then tighten the generator

or
alternator mounting
bolts
and check the tension
as indicated above. Reset the generator or alternator as necessary for correct belt tension.
Finally,
torque
the generator or alternator mounting
bolts
25 to 35 lb-ft. [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].

Note:
On the Dauntless V-6
engine
when adjusting
the fan belt tension, the alternator mounting
bolts

should be torqued 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,14 to 5,53

kg-m.].
If a fan belt tension
gauge
(W-283) is
avail­

able, proper tension should be 80 pounds [36,2 kg.].

G-l
9. Engine Overheating

An
engine
will
not be damaged by high coolant
temperatures unless the coolant boils. The pres­

surized
cooling system on the 'Jeep' vehicles raises the boiling point of the coolant solution. Should
overheating be encountered, and the fault is be­
lieved to be in the cooling system check for the
following:

a.
Proper coolant level. See
Filling
Cooling Sys­
tem Par. G-2.
b. Poor air flow.
Check
for dirty radiator core. (See Radiator Par. G-5).
Check
for faulty belt
pulley operation, worn or
loose
fan belt, or dam­ aged fan.
Clean,
repair, replace or adjust as neces­

sary.

c. Foaming coolant.
Check
for air leaks at water
pump,
hose
connection and filler cap. Tighten, re­

pair
or replace as necessary.

d.
Surging or "after boil".
Check
pressure cap and
replace if valves or gasket are faulty.
e.
External
leaks.
Check
the following for leaks:
Hoses and clamps, water pump, radiator, head gas­
ket, core plugs and drain cocks, as well as the cylin­ der head or block for
cracks.

f.
Internal
leaks.
Check
for faulty head gasket,
cracked
cylinder head or block.
g. Poor coolant flow.
Check
hose
condition, water pump, fan belt, and repair or replace as necessary. Inspect block for rust or scale, and clean and flush
the system, if necessary.

h.
Check
the temperature
gauge.
169

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM SUBJECT
PAR.

Directional
Signal
Lamps
H-138

Hazard
Warning
Lamps
H-139

Head
Lamp
Replacement H-130
Head
Lamp
Aiming Procedure H-131 Headlight Dimmer Switch H-127

License
Plate
Lamp
H-136
Main
Light
Switch. H-126

Marker
Lights .H-l40

Parking
and
Turn
Signal
Light
H-133
Stop
Light
Switch. H-l28
Tail,
Stop and
Turn
Signal
Lamp
.H-134

H-1. GENERAL
All
'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with 12- volt electrical systems. Use caution around the higher
voltage
of the 12-volt system as accidental

short
circuits are more capable of damaging electri­
cal
units. Also, arcs around the 12-volt battery are
more apt to ignite any gas that may be escaping

from
it. In the following paragraphs
will
be found
information about the battery, distributor, coil,
generator, alternator,
voltage
regulator and start­ ing motor. These units with the connecting wires,

make
up the
engine
electrical system. The wiring
diagram
will
show the different circuits of the en­

gine
electrical system and the various units which
make
up
those
circuits.

With
plastic-covered wiring harnesses use only

rubber-insulated
wiring clips.

Caution:
All current production vehicles are 12- volt, negative ground. Whenever servicing a 12-
volt electrical system, use caution, as an accidental

short
circuit is capable of damaging electrical units. Disconnect battery ground cable before changing

electrical
components.

H-2.
Battery

The
battery is a storage reservoir for electrical
energy produced by the alternator or generator.
The
battery should store sufficient energy for
operation of the entire electrical system when the
alternator
or generator is not pr 1,scing output,

such
as when the ignition is first turned on. Of

particular
importance is maintaining the electrolyte
at the correct level, regularly checking with a
hydrometer, and maintaining clean, tight cable connections.

Battery
service information is given in this section.

Caution:
Do not allow flames or sparks to be
brought near the vent
openings
of the battery since
hydrogen gas may be present in the battery and might explode.

Note:
The liquid in the battery (electrolyte) is a
solution of sulphuric acid which, on contact, can

injure
skin or
eyes,
or damage clothes. If it is spilled
on the skin or spattered in the
eyes,
promptly flush
it
away with quantities of clear water only. If the

acid
is spilled on clothes, wet it thoroughly with a

weak
solution of ammonia, or with a solution of sodium bicarbonate or baking soda.
SUBJECT
PAR.

HORN
H-137

ELECTRICAL
COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT
H-150

WINDSHIPLD
WIPER SYSTEM
H-141
thru
149

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
. .H-151

ELECTRICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
H-152

Caution:
When installing the battery, the nega­
tive terminal must be grounded. Reverse polarity of the battery can cause severe damage to the charg­ing system.

Battery
Inspection

a.
Check
the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
each cell of the battery. A hydrometer reading of 1.260 indicates that the battery is fully charged.

If
the reading is 1.225 or below, the battery
needs

recharging.
If one or more cells is 25 "points" (.025) or more lower than the other cells, this in­
dicates that the cell is shorted, the cell is about to

fail,
or there is a
crack
in the battery partition in
the case. Unless the battery is repaired or replaced, battery trouble
will
soon
be experienced.

b.
Check
the electrolyte level in each cell, add

distilled
water to maintain the solution [9,5 mm.] above the plates. Avoid overfilling. Replace
the filler caps and tighten securely. It is important to keep the electrolyte level above the plates at all
times because plates that are
exposed
for any
length of time
will
be seriously damaged.

c.
Check
the wing nuts on the hold-down frame for tightness. Tighten them only with finger pres­

sure,
never with pliers or a wrench. Excessive
pressure
could damage the battery case.

d.
Clean
the battery terminals and cable con­ nectors. Prepare a strong solution of baking soda

and
water and brush it around the terminals to
remove any corrosion that is present. The cell caps must be tight and their vents sealed to prevent
cleaning solution entering the cells. After cleaning,
connect cables to battery and coat the terminals

with
heavy grease.

e.
Inspect the battery cables and replace if badly
corroded
or frayed.
Check
tightness
of terminal
screws to ensure
good
electrical connections.
Check

the
tightness
of the negative ground cable con­nection at the frame to ensure a
good
ground
connection.
f.
Load
test
the battery. Connect a voltmeter across the battery. Run the starting motor for 15 seconds. If the
voltage
does
not drop below 10
volts the battery is satisfactory. If the
voltage
falls
below the figure given, yet the specific gravity is
above
1.225,
the condition of the battery is questionable.
g. Be sure the
engine
ground strap connection, 172

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
11514

FIG.
H-2—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODEL
CJ-3B
(Serial No.
35522
and
after)

1—
Left
Headlamp
2—
Left
Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp
4— Right Headlamp 5— Battery Ground Strap
6— Generator 7— Ignition
Coil

8— Junction Block
9—
Horn

10— Distributor
11— Battery
12—
Voltage
Regulator 13— Starting Motor
14—
Oil
Pressure Signal Switch 15— Temperature Sending Unit
16—
Solenoid
Switch 17— Foot Dimmer Switch
18—
Stop
Light Switch 19— Directional Signal Flasher
20— Fuse
21—
Light
Switch 22— Directional Signal Switch
23—
Horn
Button 24— Ignition and Starter Switch 25—Instrument Cluster
A—Upper Beam Indicator
B—Turn
Signal Indicator C—Instrument Lights

D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
E—Charging
Indicator F—Temperature Gauge

G—Fuel
Gauge
H—Instrument
Voltage
Regulator
25—Fuel Gauge Tank Unit
27—
Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp
28— Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 175

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
11474

FIG.
H-3—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODELS
CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5 AND DJ-6—F4
ENGINE
(Model CJ-5 after Serial No.
49248,
Model CJ-6 after Serial No.
12577)

1—
Left
Headlamp
B—Turn
Signal Indicator 17—Directional Signal Switch
2—
Left
Parking and Directional Lamp C—Instrument Lights 18—Light Switch
3— Right Parking and Directional Lamp
D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
19—Stop
Light Switch
4— Right Headlamp E—Charging Indicator 20—Foot Dimmer Switch
5— Battery Ground Cable F—Temperature Gauge 21—Directional Signal Flasher
6— Generator
G—Fuel
Gauge 22—Fuse 7— Distributor H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
23—Solenoid
Switch
8— Ignition
Coil
12—Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 24—Temperature Sending Unit
9— Starting Motor 13—Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 25—Oil Pressure Signal Switch
10— Voltage Regulator 14—Fuel Gauge
Tank
Unit 26—Horn
11— Instrument Cluster 15—Ignition and Starter Switch 27—Junction Block
A—Upper
Beam Indicator 16—Horn Button
whereas the Dauntless V-6
engine
Delco starter
ignition
switch. If trouble
develops
in this switch, drive is of the clutch
type.
it must be replaced.
The
ignition
switch
serves
both
to
energize
the

The
starter circuit is
opened
when the
ignition
key
ignition
system
and
also
to
engage
the starter
sole-

is allowed to return to the "Ignition On"
position.
miod switch. With the key in the vertical
position,
No repairs or adjustments can be
made
to the the electrical
system
is off. This is the
only
position
176

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

12968
FIG.
H-4—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODELS
CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5, DJ-6
LATE
F4
ENGINE

1—
Left
Headlamp
2—
Left
Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp 4— Right Headlamp
5— Generator
6— Ignition Distributor
7—
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit
8— Junction Block
9—
Horn

10— Foot Dimmer Switch 11—
Stop
Light Switch — Front
12— Temperature Sending Unit
13— Ignition
Coil

14— Starting Motor 15— Battery Ground Cable
16— Battery
17— Voltage Regulator 18—
Fuse

19— Instrument Cluster

A—Hi-Beam
Indicator

B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument
Lights

D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
E—Charging
Indicator
F—Temperature
Indicator

G—Fuel
Gauge
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
20— Ignition and Starter Switch 21—
Flashei
(Directional Signal)
22—
Horn
Button 23— Directional Signal Switch
24— 4-Way Flasher Switch
25—
Flasher
(4-Way)
26—
Fuse

27—
Main
Light Switch 28—
Stop
Light Switch — Rear
29—
Fuel
Gauge
Tank
Unit
30—
Back-Up
Light Switch
31— Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp
32— Right Back-Up Lamp
33—
Left
Back-Up Lamp
34—
Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp

in
which the key can be removed. Turning the key
to the
left
energizes
auxiliary
equipment
such as
windshield wipers, radio, and heater. The turn
signal
lights
will
operate
with the
ignition
key in
either the
left
or right
position.
The
ignition
switch is held in
position
by a
tension
spring on the back
of the instrument panel and a
notched
bezel on
the front of the instrument panel.
H-8.
Lighting System

The
wiring for the lighting
system
is shown in the
wiring diagrams, Figs. H-2 thru H-7 of the manual,
which indicate the various units in relation to their

position
in the vehicle. The lighting circuit is pro­
tected
by an overload circuit breaker
mounted
on the rear of the light switch.
The
main light switch controls the lighting
system
177