wheel JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Repair Manual

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the steering column
opening cover by squeezing the retaining clips
together and pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the steering column open-
ing cover by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 3).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the steering column opening cover (Fig.
2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes,
rear brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Dou-
ble walled steel tubing is used. Double inverted style
and ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE HOSES
AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect
the hoses whenever the brake system is serviced, at
every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in
for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper gaskets at all caliper connections.
Be sure brake line connections are properly made
(not cross threaded) and tightened to recommended
torque.
Fig. 2 STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALL
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP PAD
2 - STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
3 - SCREW (3)
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
1 - RETAINING CLIPS
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEWJ

shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL- FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 9).
(5) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 10).
(6) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove caliper from the anchor.
Fig. 8 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
Fig. 9 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 10 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(8) Secure caliper to nearby suspension part with
wire.Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
weight.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe from the cali-
per (Fig. 12).
(10) Remove the outboard brake shoe (Fig. 13)
from the caliper anchor.REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 14).
Fig. 11 Caliper Slide
1 - SLIDE PIN
2 - SLIDE PIN
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 12 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
Fig. 13 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER ANCHOR
2 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
Fig. 14 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(8) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(9) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brake shoes are seated and a firm brake pedal is
obtained.
(11) Fill brake fluid.
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Install the inboard brake shoe onto the caliper
(Fig. 17).
(2) Install the outboard brake shoe onto the caliper
anchor (Fig. 18).
(3) Lubricate the slide pins and slide pin bushings
with Dow Corningtgrease G807 or the grease pro-
vided with the brake shoes.
(4) Install caliper on the anchor.
(5) Install the caliper slide pin and tighten to
29-41 N´m (21-30 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the caliper slide pin bushing caps.
(7) Install the caliper support spring in the top
end of the caliper and under the anchor. Then installother end into the lower caliper hole. Hold the spring
into the caliper hole with your thumb while prying
the end of the spring out and down under the anchor
with a screw drive.
(8) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(9) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper piston and
brake shoes are seated and a firm brake pedal is
obtained.
(11) Fill brake fluid level if necessary.
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 19).
Fig. 18 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
3 - ROTOR
Fig. 19 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(5) Remove brake hose banjo bolt and gasket
washers. Discard gasket washers.
(6) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 20).
(7) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 21).
(8) Remove caliper from the anchor.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe (Fig. 22).
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 23).
Fig. 20 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 21 Slide Pins
1 - SLIDE PIN
2 - SLIDE PIN
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 22 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
Fig. 23 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 15
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(6) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer 8280
and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 45).
(7) Install caliper slide pin bushings into the cali-
per (Fig. 46).
(8) Install caliper bleed screw.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Install the inboard brake shoe (Fig. 22).
(2) Lubricate the slide pins and slide pin bushings
with Dow Corningtgrease G807 or the grease pro-
vided with the caliper.
(3) Install the caliper on the anchor.(4) Install the caliper slide pin and tighten to
29-41 N´m (21-30 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the caliper slide pin bushing caps.
(6) Install the caliper support spring in the top
end of the caliper and under the anchor. Then install
other end into the lower caliper hole. Hold the spring
into the caliper hole with your thumb while prying
the end of the spring out and down under the anchor
with a screw drive.
(7) Install brake hose to caliper withnew gasket
washersand tighten banjo bolt to 31 N´m (23 ft.
lbs.).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening banjo bolt.
(8) Fill and bleed brake system.
(9) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(10) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
(11) Verify brake fluid level.
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Install the inboard brake shoe (Fig. 26).
(2) Lubricate the slide pins and slide pin bushings
with Dow Corningtgrease G807 or the grease pro-
vided with the caliper.
(3) Install the caliper on the anchor.
(4) Install the caliper slide pin and tighten to
29-41 N´m (21-30 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the caliper slide pin caps.
(6) Install the caliper support spring in the top
end of the caliper and under the anchor. Then install
other end into the lower caliper hole. Hold the spring
into the caliper hole with your thumb while prying
the end of the spring out and down under the anchor
with a screw drive.
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(7) Install brake hose to caliper with anewgasket
washers and tighten banjo bolt to 31 N´m (23 ft. lbs.).
(8) Fill and bleed brake system.
(9) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(10) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
Fig. 45 Piston Dust Boot Installation
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
3 - DUST BOOT
Fig. 46 Slide Pin And Bushing
1 - CALIPER SLIDE PIN
2 - BUSHING
5 - 22 BRAKES - BASEWJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING PROCEDURE
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise with brass jaws.
(2) Attach bleed tubes to cylinder outlet ports.
Then position each tube end into the bottom of the
reservoir (Fig. 50).
(3) Fill reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
(4) Press cylinder pistons inward with wood dowel.
Then release pistons and allow them to return under
spring pressure. Continue bleeding operations until
air bubbles are no longer visible in fluid.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wire connector from the brake fluid
level sensor.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove nuts that attach master cylinder to
booster studs (Fig. 51).
(4) Remove master cylinder from booster.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Bleed new master cylinder on bench before
installation, refer to Service Procedures.
(1) Have an assistant depress the brake pedal
while guiding the master cylinder on the booster rod
and mounting studs.
CAUTION: Do not depress brake pedal too hard and
ensure the booster rod is in the master cylinder pis-
ton or booster/master cylinder damage will occur.(2) Install master cylinder mounting nuts and
tighten nuts to 25 N´m (18 lb. lbs.).
NOTE: Use original or factory replacement nuts only.
(3) Install brake lines and tighten to 16 N´m (144
in. lbs.).
(4) Install fluid level sensor connector.
(5) Fill and bleed brake system.
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - STANDARD PEDAL
A suspended-type brake pedal is used, the pedal
pivots on a shaft mounted in the pedal support
bracket. The bracket is attached to the dash panel.
The brake pedal assembly and pedal pad are the
only serviceable component.
DESCRIPTION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
The Adjustable Pedals System (APS) is designed to
enable the fore and aft repositioning of the brake and
accelerator pedals. This results in improved ergonom-
ics in relation to the steering wheel for taller and
shorter drivers. Being able to adjust the pedal posi-
Fig. 50 Master Cylinder Bleeding
1 - BLEEDING TUBES
2 - RESERVOIR
Fig. 51 Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - SENSOR CONNECTOR
3 - MOUNTING NUT
4 - BRAKE LINES
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)