Rear arm JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Owner's Manual

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(7) Raise and support the vehicle.
(8) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(9) Remove the brake calipers, caliper anchors and
rotors.
(10) Remove the ABS sensor wiring harness (Fig.
74)from the rear brake cables.
(11) Remove the cable retainer bolts (Fig. 74) from
the rear spring pads.
(12) Pull the cables out of the upper suspension
arm brackets.
(13) Push the cable in and lift up the end of cable
with a small screw driver to disengage the cable from
the parking brake actuator (Fig. 75).
(14) Remove the cable from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
(1) Install thecable into the parking brake lever
bracket and equalizer bracket.
(2) Install the front cable to the floor pan and
install retainer nuts.
(3) Engage the front cable ends to the parking
brake lever and equalizer.
(4) Install the front carpet, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/CARPETS AND FLOOR MATS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Pull on the lever to release the lock out spring.
(6) Install the center console, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Fold down the rear carpet cover and rear seat.
INSTALLATION - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES
(1) Install the cables through the caliper anchor
mount. Then push the end of cable strand in to
engage the cable end to the parking brake actuator.
(2) Feed the other end of the cables through the
body and into the equalizer bracket (Fig. 76).
Fig. 74 Left Rear Parking Brake Cable
1 - CABLE BRACKET
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
4 - CABLE RETAINER
5 - ABS SENSOR WIRING
Fig. 75 Parking Brake
1 - CABLE END
2 - SCREW DRIVER
3 - PARKING BRAKE ACTUATOR
4 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 76 Equalizer Bracket
1 - EQUALIZER
2 - RIGHT REAR CABLE
3 - LEFT REAR CABLE
4 - FRONT CABLE
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 37
CABLES (Continued)

(3) Push the cables into the upper suspension arm
brackets.
(4) Install the cable retainer bolts to the rear
spring pads.
(5) Install the ABS sensor wiring harness to the
rear brake cables.
(6) Install the rotors, caliper anchors and brake
calipers.
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(8) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(9) Engage the cable ends into the parking brake
equalizer.
(10) Pull on the lever to release the lock out
spring.
(11) Install center console, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
TERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION).
(12) Fold down the rear carpet cover and rear seat.
(13) Verify parking brake operation.
LEVER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove center console,(Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
TERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL).
(2) Lift up rear seat and carpet covering the park-
ing brake cables.
(3) Place a screw driver through the front cable
eyelet (Fig. 77) and pry back on the front cable.(4) Have an assistant pry down the lock out spring
through the hole in the side of the park brake lever
(Fig. 78) with a small screw driver. Then slowly
release the front cable.
NOTE: Their should be slack in the cable if the lock
out spring is engaged.
(5) Disconnect parking brake switch wiring con-
nector.
(6) Disengage front cable end from parking brake
lever.
(7) Compress the cable retainer with a 13 mm
wrench (Fig. 79) and remove the cable from the park-
ing brake lever bracket.
Fig. 77 FRONT CABLE
1 - REAR CABLES
2 - FRONT CABLE EYELET
3 - FRONT CABLE
4 - EQUALIZER
Fig. 78 Lock Out Spring
1 - LOCK OUT SPRING
Fig. 79 Parking Brake Lever Bracket
1 - FRONT CABLE
2 - WRENCH
5 - 38 BRAKES - BASEWJ
CABLES (Continued)

G-SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The G-switch (Fig. 4) is located under the rear
seat. The switch has directional arrow and must be
mounted with the arrow pointing towards the front
of the vehicle.
OPERATION
The switch is monitored by the CAB at all times.
The switch contains three mercury switches which
monitor vehicle deceleration rates (G-force). Sudden
changes in deceleration rates trigger the switch,
sending a signal to the CAB.
REMOVAL
(1) Fold the rear seat bottom assembly up for
access to the switch.
(2) Lift up the carpeting and disconnect the switch
harness (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove the switch mounting bolts and remove
the switch.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The mercury switch (inside the
G-Switch), will not function properly if the switch is
installed incorrectly. Verify that the switch locating
arrow is pointing to the front of the vehicle (Fig. 6).
(1) Note the position of the locating arrow on the
switch. Position the switch so the arrow faces for-
ward.
(2) Install the switch and tighten the mounting
bolts to 5.6 N´m (50 in. lbs.).
Fig. 2 Left Sensor Connector
1 - LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 - ENGINE EXHAUST PIPE
3 - LEFT FRONT FRAME RAIL
4 - FRONT DRIVESHAFT
Fig. 3 Right Sensor Connector
1 - RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 - ENGINE EXHAUST Y-PIPE
3 - RIGHT FRONT FRAME RAIL
4 - RIGHT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
Fig. 4 G-Switch
1 - SWITCH PART NUMBER
2 - ARROW INDICATES FRONT OF SWITCH FOR PROPER
MOUNTING
5 - 44 BRAKES - ABSWJ
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any
removed air.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS (Fig. 7) OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine
cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the left/
lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
(2) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container. Open draincock
and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not
have to be removed from the tank unless the system
is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is
empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining
cooling system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder
block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling sys-
tem can result in an overheating condition and
severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the
radiator upper hose inlet housing. (Fig. 8)Fill system
using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze
and low mineral content water, until coolant begains
coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and
install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the
reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as neces-
sary.Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow
tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a
warm engine will be higher due to thermal
expansion.To purge the cooling system of all air,
this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold
engine) must be performed three times. Add neces-
sary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark
after each cool down period.
Fig. 7 Drain PlugÐ4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
7 - 12 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM - 4.0L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(1) DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine
cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the right/
lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
(2) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container. Open draincock
and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not
have to be removed from the tank unless the system
is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is
empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining
cooling system.
To drain the engine of coolant, remove the cylinder
block drain plug located on the side of cylinder block
(Fig. 9).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM - 4.0L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder
block drain plug(s) (if removed).
(2) Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-
glycol antifreeze and low mineral content water. Fill
radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add suffi-
cient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise
level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as neces-
sary.Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow
tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a
warm engine will be higher due to thermal
expansion.To purge the cooling system of all air,
this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold
engine) must be performed three times. Add neces-
sary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark
after each cool down period.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
Fig. 8 Cooling System Bleed Plug - 4.7L
1 - COOLING SYSTEM BLEED PLUG
Fig. 9 Drain PlugÐ4.0L Engine
1 - COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2 - BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
WJCOOLING 7 - 13
COOLING (Continued)

INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals (Fig. 39) are
properly fastened to their original positions. These
are used at the top, bottom and sides of the radia-
tor and A/C condenser. To prevent overheating,
these seals must be installed to their original posi-
tions.
(1) Equipped with air conditioning: Gently lower
the radiator into the vehicle. Guide the two radiator
alignment dowels through the holes in the rubber air
seals first and then through the A/C support brackets
(Fig. 40). Continue to guide the alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember. The holes in the L-shaped brackets
(located on bottom of A/C condenser) must be posi-
tioned between bottom of rubber air seals and top of
rubber grommets.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator (Fig. 41).
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator (Fig. 41).
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator (Fig. 41).
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts (Fig. 41).
(6) Install air inlet duct at grill.
(7) Attach electric fan harness to shroud, then con-
nect harness to connector (Fig. 41).
(8) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the fan/viscous fan drive assembly to
the water pump.
(10) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(11) Be sure of at least 25 mm (1.0 inch) between
tips of fan blades and fan shroud.
(12) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Connect battery cable at battery.
(14) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
RADIATOR FAN MOTOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐELECTRIC
COOLING FAN
The powertrain control module (PCM) will enter a
diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in memory if it detects
a problem in the auxiliary cooling fan relay or circuit.
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
If the electric cooling fan is inoperative, check the
15A fuse in the junction block and the 40A fuse in
the Power Distribution Center (PDC) with a 12 volt
test lamp or DVOM. Refer to the inside of the PDC
cover for the exact location of the fuse. If fuses are
okay, refer to ELECTRICAL for cooling fan and relay
circuit schematic.
WATER PUMP - 4.7L
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTIONÐWATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
single serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has two small holes to allow
seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubri-
cated by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No
additional lubrication is necessary.
Both heater hoses are connected to fittings on the
timing chain front cover. The water pump is also
mounted directly to the timing chain cover and is
equipped with a non serviceable integral pulley (Fig.
42).
DESCRIPTIONÐWATER PUMP BYPASS
The 4.7L engine uses an internal water/coolant
bypass system. The design uses galleries in the tim-
ing chain cover to circulate coolant during engine
warm-up preventing the coolant from flowing
through the radiator. The thermostat uses a stub
shaft located at the rear of the thermostat (Fig. 43)
to control flow through the bypass gallery.
OPERATION
OPERATIONÐWATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
WJENGINE 7 - 47
RADIATOR - 4.0L (Continued)

CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not,
engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in
wrong direction.
(6) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Connect negative battery cable.
(8) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
WATER PUMP - 4.0L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: All 4.0L 6-cylinder engines are equipped
with a reverse (counterclockwise) rotating water
pump and thermal viscous fan drive assembly.
REVERSE is stamped or imprinted on the cover of
the viscous fan drive and inner side of the fan. The
letter R is stamped into the back of the water pump
impeller. Engines from previous model years,
depending upon application, may have been
equipped with a forward (clockwise) rotating water
pump. Installation of the wrong water pump or vis-
cous fan drive will cause engine over heating.
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
single serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has two small holes to allow
seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubri-
cated by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No
additional lubrication is necessary (Fig. 45).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP
LOOSE IMPELLER - 4.0L and 4.7L
NOTE: Due to the design of the 4.0L and 4.7L
engine water pumps, testing the pump for a loose
impeller must be done by verifying coolant flow in
the radiator. To accomplish this refer to the follow-
ing procedure.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(1) Drain coolant until the first row of cores is vis-
ible in the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE) 4.7L Engine or (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE) 4.0L
Engine.(2) Leaving the radiator cap off, start the engine.
Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) While looking into the radiator through the
radiator fill neck, raise engine rpm to 2000 RPM.
Observe the flow of coolant from the first row of
cores.
(4) If there is no flow or very little flow visable,
replace the water pump.
INSPECTING FOR INLET RESTRICTIONS
Inadequate heater performance may be caused by
a metal casting restriction in the heater hose inlet.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Drain sufficient coolant from the radiator to
decrease the level below the heater hose inlet. On
4.7L engines this requires complete draining.
(2) Remove the heater hose.
(3) Inspect the inlet for metal casting flash or
other restrictions.
Fig. 45 Water Pump
1 - HEATER HOSE FITTING BORE
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - WATER PUMP HUB
7 - 50 ENGINEWJ
WATER PUMP - 4.7L (Continued)

OPERATION
These starter motors are equipped with a plane-
tary gear reduction (intermediate transmission) sys-
tem. The planetary gear reduction system consists of
a gear that is integral to the output end of the elec-
tric motor armature shaft that is in continual
engagement with a larger gear that is splined to the
input end of the starter pinion gear shaft. This fea-
ture makes it possible to reduce the dimensions of
the starter. At the same time, it allows higher arma-
ture rotational speed and delivers increased torque
through the starter pinion gear to the starter ring
gear.
The starter motors for both engines are activated
by an integral heavy duty starter solenoid switch
mounted to the overrunning clutch housing. This
electromechanical switch connects and disconnects
the feed of battery voltage to the starter motor and
actuates a shift fork that engages and disengages the
starter pinion gear with the starter ring gear.
Both starter motors use an overrunning clutch and
starter pinion gear unit to engage and drive a starter
ring gear that is integral to the torque converter
drive plate mounted on the rear crankshaft flange.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTER MOTOR
Correct starter motor operation can be confirmed
by performing the following free running bench test.
This test can only be performed with the starter
motor removed from the vehicle. Refer toStarting
Systemin the Specifications section of this group for
the starter motor specifications.
(1) Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
Refer toStarter Motorin the Removal and Instal-
lation section of this group for the procedures.
(2) Mount the starter motor securely in a soft-
jawed bench vise. The vise jaws should be clamped
on the mounting flange of the starter motor. Never
clamp on the starter motor by the field frame.
(3) Connect a suitable volt-ampere tester and a
12-volt battery to the starter motor in series, and set
the ammeter to the 100 ampere scale. See the
instructions provided by the manufacturer of the
volt-ampere tester being used.
(4) Install a jumper wire from the solenoid termi-
nal to the solenoid battery terminal. The starter
motor should operate. If the starter motor fails to
operate, replace the faulty starter motor assembly.
(5) Adjust the carbon pile load of the tester to
obtain the free running test voltage. Refer toStart-
ing Systemin the Specifications section of this
group for the starter motor free running test voltage
specifications.
(6) Note the reading on the ammeter and compare
this reading to the free running test maximum
amperage draw. Refer toStarting Systemin theSpecifications section of this group for the starter
motor free running test maximum amperage draw
specifications.
(7) If the ammeter reading exceeds the maximum
amperage draw specification, replace the faulty
starter motor assembly.
STARTER SOLENOID
This test can only be performed with the starter
motor removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
Refer toStarter Motorin the Removal and Instal-
lation section of this group for the procedures.
(2) Disconnect the wire from the solenoid field coil
terminal.
(3) Check for continuity between the solenoid ter-
minal and the solenoid field coil terminal with a con-
tinuity tester (Fig. 7). There should be continuity. If
OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, replace the faulty starter
motor assembly.
(4) Check for continuity between the solenoid ter-
minal and the solenoid case (Fig. 8). There should be
continuity. If not OK, replace the faulty starter motor
assembly.
Fig. 7 Continuity Test Between Solenoid Terminal
and Field Coil Terminal - Typical
1 - SOLENOID
2 - SOLENOID TERMINAL
3 - OHMMETER
4 - FIELD COIL TERMINAL
Fig. 8 Continuity Test Between Solenoid Terminal
1 - SOLENOID
2 - SOLENOID TERMINAL
3 - OHMMETER
8F - 36 STARTINGWJ
STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

volts indicates a break between midpoint C and the
right side rear heating grid bus bar. Move the posi-
tive lead on the grid line towards the break and the
voltage reading will change as soon as the break is
crossed.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REAR GLASS
HEATING GRID REPAIR
Repair of the rear glass heating grid lines, bus
bars, and terminals can be accomplished using a
Mopar Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit (Part Num-
ber 4267922) or equivalent.
WARNING: MATERIALS CONTAINED IN THE REPAIR
KIT MAY CAUSE SKIN OR EYE IRRITATION. THE
KIT CONTAINS EPOXY RESIN AND AMINE TYPE
HARDENER, WHICH ARE HARMFUL IF SWAL-
LOWED. AVOID CONTACT WITH THE SKIN AND
EYES. FOR SKIN CONTACT, WASH THE AFFECTED
AREAS WITH SOAP AND WATER. FOR CONTACT
WITH THE EYES, FLUSH WITH PLENTY OF WATER.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. IF TAKEN INTER-
NALLY, INDUCE VOMITING AND CALL A PHYSICIAN
IMMEDIATELY. USE WITH ADEQUATE VENTILA-
TION. DO NOT USE NEAR FIRE OR FLAME. CON-
TAINS FLAMMABLE SOLVENTS. KEEP OUT OF THE
REACH OF CHILDREN.
(1) Mask the repair area on the inside of the rear
glass so that the conductive epoxy can be applied
neatly. Extend the epoxy application onto the rear
glass heating grid bus bar or grid line on each side of
the break (Fig. 3).(2) Follow the instructions in the repair kit for
preparing the damaged area.
(3) Remove the package separator clamp and mix
the two conductive epoxy components thoroughly
within the packaging. Fold the package in half and
cut the center corner to dispense the epoxy.
(4) For rear glass heating grid line repairs, mask
the area to be repaired with masking tape or a tem-
plate.
(5) Apply the epoxy through the slit in the mask-
ing tape or template. Overlap both ends of the break
by at least 19 millimeters (0.75 inch).
(6) For a rear glass heating grid terminal replace-
ment, mask the adjacent areas so the epoxy can be
extended onto the adjacent grid line as well as onto
the bus bar. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the area
where the terminal was previously fastened and onto
the adjacent grid line.
(7) Apply a thin layer of conductive epoxy to the
terminal and place it in the proper location on the
rear glass heating grid bus bar. To prevent the termi-
nal from moving while the epoxy is curing, it must be
wedged or clamped.
(8) Carefully remove the masking tape or tem-
plate.
CAUTION: Do not allow the glass surface to exceed
204É C (400É F) or the glass may fracture.
(9) Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours at room
temperature, or use a heat gun with a 260É to 371É C
(500É to 700É F) range for fifteen minutes. Hold the
heat gun approximately 25.4 centimeters (10 inches)
from the repair.
(10) After the conductive epoxy is properly cured,
remove the wedge or clamp from the terminal. Do
Fig. 2 REAR WINDOW GLASS GRID TEST
1 - TERMINAL ªAº
2 - TERMINAL ªBº
3 - FEED WIRE
4 - MID-POINT ªCº (TYPICAL)
5 - HEATED REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER GRID
6 - GROUND WIRE
Fig. 3 GRID LINE REPAIR
1 - BREAK
2 - GRID LINE
3 - MASKING TAPE
8G - 4 HEATED GLASSWJ
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER GRID (Continued)