fuses MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-29
i
*Bug screens which are mounted in front of
the condenser (unless they are original
equipment) are regarded as obstructtons.
l The condensation drain tube expels any water
which accumulates on the bottom of the evaporator
housing into the engine compartment. If this tube is
obstructed, the air conditioning performance can be
restricted and condensation buildup can spill over
onto the vehicle’s floor.
l Make sure the air passage selection lever is
operating correctly. Start the engine and warm it to
normal operating temperature, then make sure the
temperature selection lever is operating correctly.
-w
~1 ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE& REPLACEMENT
SYSTEM INSPECTION
b See Figure 125 b See Figures 126 thru 135
For maximum effectiveness and longest element
Although the A/C system should not be serviced
by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can
be practiced and A/C system inspections can be per-
formed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle’s
A/C system. For A/C system inspection, perform the
following:
The easiest and often most important check for the
air conditioning system consists of a visual inspec-
tion of the system components. Visually inspect the
air conditioning system for refrigerant leaks, dam-
aged compressor clutch, abnormal compressor drive
belt tension and/or condition, plugged evaporator
drain tube, blocked condenser fins, disconnected or
broken wires, blown fuses, corroded connections and
poor insulation.
A refrigerant leak will usually appear as an oily
residue at the leakage point in the system. The oily
residue soon picks up dust or dirt particles from the
surrounding air and appears greasy. Through time,
this will build up and appear to be a heavy dirt im-
pregnated grease.
For a thorough visual and operational inspection,
check the following: * Check the surface of the radiator and con-
denser for dirt, leaves or other material which might
block air flow.
l Check for kinks in hoses and lines. Check the
system for leaks.
l Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned.
When the air conditioning is operating, make sure the
drive belt is free of noise or slippage.
l Make sure the blower motor operates at all ap-
propriate positions, then check for distribution of the
air from all outlets with the blower on HIGH or MAX.
*Keep in mind that under conditions of high
humidity, air discharged from the A/C vents
may not feel as cold as expected, even if the
system is working properly. This is because
vaporized moisture in humid air retains heat
more effectively than dry air, thereby making
humid air more difficult to cool.
lifp thp winrkhi&i nnri winor hlarlP~ shmM hP kmt . ..“. .I.” . . * ““I.. “.” I..” ...r”* “.“““” “, ,““,” “” ,~“r~ clean. Dirt, tree sap, road tar and so on will cause
streaking, smearing and blade deterioration if left on
the glass. It is advisable to wash the windshield care-
fully with a commercial glass cleaner at least once a
month. Wipe off the rubber blades with the wet rag
afterwards. Do not attempt to move wipers across the
windshield by hand; damage to the motor and drive
mechanism will result.
To inspect and/or replace the wiper blade ele-
ments, place the wiper switch in the LOW speed po-
sition and the ignition switch in the ACC position.
When the wiper blades are approximately vertical on
the windshield, turn the ignition switch to OFF.
Examine the wiper blade elements. If they are
found to be cracked, broken or torn, they should be
replaced immediately. Replacement intervals will vary
with usage, although ozone deterioration usually lim-
its element life to about one year. If the wiper pattern
is smeared or streaked, or if the blade chatters across
the glass, the elements should be replaced. It is easi-
est and most sensible to replace the elements in
pairs.
If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket blades,
there are several different types of refills and your vehi-
tcca-23 Fig. 126 Bosch@ wiper blade and fft kit
Fig. 129 T&o* wioer blade and fit kit tCS1224
lW1Z?5 Fig. 127 LexoP wiper blade and fit kit
Fig. 128 Pylon@ wiper blade and adapter
Fig. 131 To remove and install a LexoP
Fig, 130 Tripledge@ wiper blade and fit kit wiper blade refill, slip out the old insert and
slide in a new one

UNDERSTANDING AND
TROUBLESHOOTING
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 6-2
BASIC ELECTRICALTHEORY 6-2
HOW DOES ELECTRICITY WORK:
THEWATERANALOGY 6-2
OHM'S LAW 6-2
ELECTRICALCOMPONENTS 6-2
POWERSOURCE 6-2
GROUND 6-3
PROTECTIVE DEVICES 6-3
SWITCHES&RELAYS 6-3
LOAD 6-3
WIRING & HARNESSES 6-3
CONNECTORS 6-4
TEST EQUIPMENT 6-4
JUMPER WIRES 6-4
TEST LIGHTS 6-4
MULTIMETERS 6-5
TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL
SYSTEMS 6-5
TESTING 6-5
OPEN CIRCUITS 6-5
SHORT CIRCUITS 6-6
VOLTAGE 6-6
VOLTAGE DROP 6-6
RESISTANCE 6-8
WIRE AND CONNECTORREPAIR 6-6
BATTERY CABLES 6-7
DISCONNECTING THE CABLES 6-7
AIR BAG (SUPPLEMENTAL
RESTRAINT SYSTEM) 6-7
GENERALINFORMATION 6-7
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 6-7
DISARMING 6-7
REARMING 6-7
HEATING AND AIR
CONDITIONING 6-7
BLOWER MOTOR 6-7
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-7
HEATER CORE 6-9 INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES 6-17
INSTRUMENTCLUSTER 6-17
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-17
GAUGES 6-18
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-18
WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-19
REARWINDOWWIPERSWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
DIMMER SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-19 .
HEADLIGHT SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-19
LIGHTING 6-19
HEADLIGHTS 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
AIMINGTHEHEADLIGHTS 6-20
SIGNAL AND MARKER LIGHTS 6-21
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-21
CIRCUIT PROTECTION 6-27
FUSES 6-27
REPLACEMENT 6-27
FUSIBLE LINKS 6-27
CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6-28
RESETTING AND/OR
REPLACEMENT 6-28
FLASHERS 6-28
REPLACEMENT 6-28
WIRING DIAGRAMS 6-31
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-9
AIR CONDITIONING COMPONENTS 6-11
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-11
CONTROLCABLES 6-12
ADJUSTMENT 6-12
CONTROL PANEL 6-12
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-12
CRUISE CONTROL 6-13
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 6-14
RADIO RECEIVER/AMPLIFIER/TAPE
PLAYER/CD PLAYER 6-14
SPEAKERS 6-14
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-14
WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND
WASHERS 6-15
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADE AND
ARM 6-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-15
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR 6-16 _
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-16
WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMP 6-17
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-17

6-2 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
) See Figure 1
For any 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system
to operate, the electricity must travel in a complete
circurt. This simply means that current (power) from
the posibve (t) terminal of the battery must eventu-
ally return to the negative (-) terminal of the battery.
Along the way, this current will travel through wires,
fuses, switches and components. If, for any reason,
the flow of current through the circuit is interrupted,
the component fed by that circuit will cease to func-
tion properly.
Perhaps the easiest way to visualize a circuit is to
think of connecting a light bulb (with two wires at-
tached to it) to the battery-one wire attached to the
negative (-) terminal of the battery and the other wire
to the positive (t) terminal. With the two wires touch-
ing the battery terminals, the circuit would be com-
plete and the light bulb would illummate. Electricity
would follow a path from the battery to the bulb and
back to the battery. It’s easy to see that wrth longer
wires on our light bulb, it could be mounted any-
where. Further, one wire could be fitted with a switch
so that the light could be turned on and off.
The normal automotive circuit differs from this
simple example in two ways, Frrst, instead of having
a return wire from the bulb to the battery, the current
travels through the frame of the vehicle. Since the
negative (-) battery cable is attached to the frame
(made of electrically conductive metal), the frame of
the vehicle can serve as a ground wire to complete
the circuit. Secondly, most automotive circuits con-
tain multiple components which receive power from a
single circuit. This lessens the amount of wire
needed to power components on the vehicle.
HOW DOES ELECTRlClTYWORK:THE
WATER ANALOGY
Electricity is the flow of electrons-the subatomic
particles that constitute the outer shell of an atom.
Electrons spin in an orbit around the center core of
RETURN
RETURN
CONDUCTOR
CONDUCTOR
GROUND
GROUND
lccs2w
Fig. 1 This example illustrates a simple cir-
cuit. When the switch is closed, power from
the positive (t) battery terminal flows
through the fuse and the switch, and then
to the light bulb. The light illuminates and
the circuit is completed through the ground
wire back to the negative (-) battery termi-
nal. In reality, the two ground points shown
in the illustration are attached to the metal
frame of the vehicle, which completes the
circuit back to the battery
an atom The center core is comprised of protons
(positive charge) and neutrons (neutral charge). Elec-
trons have a negative charge and balance
out the
positive charge of the protons. When an outside force
causes the number of electrons to unbalance the
charge of the protons, the electrons will split off the
atom and look for another atom to balance out. If this
imbalance is kept up, electrons will continue to move
and an electrical flow will exist.
Many people have been taught electrical theory
using an analogy with water. In a comparison wrth
water flowing through a pipe, the electrons would be
the water and the wire is the pipe.
The flow of electricity can be measured much like
the flow of water through a pipe. The unit of measure-
ment used is amperes, frequently abbreviated as
amps (a). You can compare amperage to the volume
of water flowing through a pipe. When connected to a
circuit, an ammeter WIII measure the actual amount of
current flowing through the circuit. When relatively
few electrons flow through a circuit, the amperage is
low. When many electrons flow, the amperage is
high.
Water pressure is measured in units such as
pounds per square inch (psi); The electrical pressure
is measured in unrts called volts (v). When a volt-
meter is connected to a circuit, it is measuring the
electrical pressure.
The actual flow of electricity depends not only on
voltage and amperage, but also on the resistance of
the circuit The higher the resistance, the higher the
force necessary to push the current through the cir-
cuit. The standard unit for measuring resistance is an
ohm. Resistance in a crrcuit varies dependmg on the
amount and type of components used in the circuit.
The main factors which determine resistance are:
l Material-some materials have more resis-
tance than others Those with high resistance are said
to be insulators Rubber materials (or rubber-like
plashcs) are some of the most common insulators
used in vehicles as they have a very high resistance
to electricity Very low resistance materials are said to
be conductors. Copper wire is among the best con-
ductors. Silver is actually a superior conductor to
copper and is used in some relay contacts, but its
high cost prohibits its use as common wiring Most
automotive wiring is made of copper.
l Size-the larger the wire size being used, the
less resistance the wire will have. This IS why com-
ponents which use large amounts of electricity usu-
ally have large wires supplying current to them.
l Length-for a given thickness of wire, the
longer the wire, the greater the resistance. The
shorter the wire, the less the resistance. When deter-
mining the proper wire for a circuit, both size and
length must be considered to design a circuit that can
handle the current needs of the component.
l Temperature-with many materials, the higher
the temperature, the greater the resistance (positive
temperature coefficient). Some materials exhibit the
opposite trait of lower resistance with higher temper-
atures (negative temperature coefficient). These prin-
ciples are used in many of the sensors on the engine
OHM'S LAW
There is a direct relationship between current,
voltage and resistance. The relationship between cur- rent, voltage and resistance can be summed up by a
statement known as Ohm’s law.
Voltage (E) is equal to amperage (I) times resis-
tance (R): E=l x R
Other forms of the formula are R=E/I and I=E/R
In each of these formulas, E is the voltage in volts,
I is the current in amps and R IS the resistance in
ohms. The basic point to remember is that as the re-
sistance of a circuit goes up, the amount of current
that flows in the circuit will go down, if voltage re-
mains the same.
The amount of work that the electricity can perform
is expressed as power. The unit of power is the watt
(w). The relationship between power, voltage and
current
IS expressed as:
Power(w) is equal to amperage (I) times voltage
(E): W=l x E
This is only true for direct current (DC) circuits:
The alternating current formula is a tad different, but
since the electrical circuits in most vehicles are DC
type, we need not get into AC circuit theory.
POWERSOURCE
Power is supplied to the vehicle by two devices:
The battery and the alternator. The battery supplies
electrical power during starting or during periods
when the current demand of the vehicle’s electrical
system exceeds the output capacity of the alternator.
The alternator supplies electrical current when the
engine is running
Just not does the alternator supply
the current needs of the vehicle, but it recharges the
battery.
The Battery
In most modern vehicles, the battery is a lead/acid
electrochemical device consisting of six 2 volt sub-
sections (cells) connected in series, so that the unit
is capable of producing approximately 12 volts of
electrical pressure. Each subsection consists of a se-
ries of positive and negative plates held a short dis-
tance apart in a solutron of sulfuric acid and water.
The two types of plates are of dissimilar metals,
This sets up a chemrcal reaction, and it is this reac-
tion which produces current flow from the battery
when Its positive and negattve terminals are con-
nected to an electrical load. The power removed from
the battery is replaced by the alternator, restoring the
battery to its original chemical state.
The Alternator
On some vehicles there isn’t an alternator, but a
generator. The difference IS that an alternator sup-
plies alternating current which is then changed to di-
rect current for
use on the vehicle, while a generator
produces direct current. Alternators tend to be more
efficient and that is why they are used.
Alternators and generators are devices that consist
of coils of wires wound together making big electro-
magnets. One group of coils spins within another set
and the interaction of the magnetic fields causes a
current to flow. This current is then drawn off the
coils and fed into the vehicles electrical system.

CHASSIS ELECTRiCAL 6-5
them. It is used for voltage and ground tests. To use voltmeter has a positive and a negative lead. To avoid
a 12 volt test light, connect the ground clip to a good damage to the meter, always connect the negative
ground and probe wherever necessary with the pick. lead to the negative (-) side of the circuit (to ground
The test light will illuminate when voltage is detected. or nearest the ground side of the circuit) and connect
This
does not necessarily mean that 12 volts (or any the positive lead to the positive(t) side of the circuit When diagnosing a specific problem, organized
troubleshooting is a must. The complexity of a mod-
particular amount of voltage) is present; it only (to the power source or the nearest power source).
means that some voltage is present. It is advisable Note that the negative voltmeter lead will always be ern automotive vehicle demands that you approach
before using the test light to touch its ground clip black and that the positive voltmeter will always be any problem in a logical, organized manner. There
and probe across the battery posts or terminals to some color other than black (usually red). are certain troubleshooting techniques, however,
which are standard:
make sure the light is operating properly.
l Ohmmeter-the ohmmeter is designed to read l Establish when the problem occurs. Does the
resistance (measured in ohms) in a circuit or compo-
nent. Most ohmmeters will have a selector switch problem appear only under certain conditions? Were
there any noises, odors or other unusual symptoms?
Do not use a test light to probe electronic ig- which permits the measurement of different ranges of
Isolate the problem area. To do this, make some sim-
nition, spark plug or coil wires. Never use a resistance (usually the selector switch allows the
multiplication of the meter reading by 10,100,1,000 ple tests and observations, then eliminate the sys-
pick-type test light to probe wiring on com- terns that are working properly. Check for obvious
puter controlled systems unless specifically and 10,000). Some ohmmeters are “auto-ranging”
which means the meter itself will determine which problems, such as broken wires and loose or dirty
instructed to do so. Any wire insulation that
scale to use. Since the meters are powered by an in- connections. Always check the obvious before as-
is pierced by the test light probe should be
ternal battery, the ohmmeter can be used like a self- suming something complicated is the cause.
taped and sealed with silicone after testing.
l Test for problems systematically to determine
powered test light. When the ohmmeter is connected,
the cause once the problem area is isolated. Are all
Like the jumper wire, the 12 volt test light is used current from the ohmmeter flows through the circuit
the components functioning properly? Is there power
to isolate opens in circuits. But, whereas the jumper or component being tested. Since the ohmmeter’s in-
ternal resistance and voltage are known values, the going to electrical switches and motors. Performing
wire is used to bypass the open to operate the load,
amount of current flow through the meter depends on careful, systematic checks will often turn up most
the 12 volt test light is used to locate the presence of
the resistance of the circuit or component being causes on the first inspection, without wasting time
voltage in a circuit. If the test light illuminates, there
tested. The ohmmeter can also be used to perform a checking components that have little or no relation-
is power up to that point in the circuit; if the test light ship to the problem.
does not illuminate, there is an open circuit (no continuity test for suspected open circuits. In using
the meter for making continuity checks, do not be
l Test all repairs after the work is done to make
power). Move the test light in successive steps back
concerned with the
actual resistance readings. Zero sure that the problem is fixed. Some causes can be
toward the power source until the light in the handle traced to more than one component, so a careful veri-
illuminates. The open is between the probe and a resistance, or any ohm reading, indicates continuity
fication of repair work is important in order to pick up
point which was previously probed. in the circuit, Infinite resistance indicates an opening
in the circuit. A high resistance reading where there additional malfunctions that may cause a problem to
The self-powered test light is similar in design to
should be none indicates a problem in the circuit. reappear or a different problem to arise. A blown
the 12 volt test light, but contains a 1.5 volt penlight
Checks for short circuits are made in the same man- fuse, for example, is a simple problem that may re-
battery in the handle. It is most often used in place of
ner as checks for open circuits, except that the circuit quire more than another fuse to repair. If you don’t
a multimeter to check for open or short circuits when look for a problem that caused a fuse to blow, a
power is isolated from the circuit (continuity test). must be isolated from both power and normal
ground. Infinite resistance indicates no continuity, shorted wire (for example) may go undetected.
The battery in a self-powered test light does not Experience has shown that most problems tend
provide much current. A weak battery may not pro- while zero resistance indicates a dead short.
to be the result of a fairly simple and obvious
vide enough power to illuminate the test light even I ’ cause, such as loose or corroded connectors, bad
when a complete circuit is made (especially if there is grounds or damaged wire insulation which causes a
high resistance in the circuit). Always make sure that Never use an ohmmeter to check the resis- short. This makes careful visual inspection of com-
the test battery is strong. To check the battery, briefly tance of a component or wire while there is ponents during testing essential to quick and accu-
touch the ground clip to the probe; if the light glows voltage applied to the circuit. rate troubleshooting.
brightly, the battery is strong enough for testing.
*A self-powered test light should not be
l Ammeter-an ammeter measures the amount
- I
used on any computer controlled system or of current flowing through a circuit in units called
component. The small amount of electricity amperes or amps. At normal operating voltage, most
circuits have a characteristic amount of amperes, OPEN CIRCUITS
transmitted by the test light is enough to
damage many electronic automotive compo- called “current draw” which can be measured using
an ammeter. By referring to a specified current draw # See Figure 8
nents.
rating, then measuring the amperes and comparing
MULTIMETERS the two values, one can determine what is happening
within the circuit to aid in diagnosis. An open circuit,
for example, will not allow any current to flow, so the
Multimeters are an extremely useful tool for trou-
bleshooting electrical problems. They can be pur- ammeter reading will be zero. A damaged component
or circuit will have an increased current draw, so the
chased in either analog or digital form and have a
reading will be high. The ammeter is always con-
price range to suit any budget. A multimeter is a volt-
netted in series with the circuit being tested. All of
meter, ammeter and ohmmeter (along with other fea-
the current that normally flows through the circuit
tures) combined into one instrument. It is often used
must also flow through the ammeter; if there is any
when testing solid state circuits because of its high
other path for the current to follow, the ammeter read-
input impedance (usually 10 megaohms or more). A
ing will not be accurate. The ammeter itself has very
brief description of the multiieter main test functions
follows: little resistance to current flow and, therefore, will not
affect the circuit, but it will measure current draw only
l Voltmeter--the voltmeter is used to measure
when the circuit is closed and electricity is flowing.
voltage at any point in a circuit, or to measure the
Excessive current draw can blow fuses and drain the
voltage drop across any part of a circuit. Voltmeters
battery, while a reduced current draw can cause mo-
usually have various scales and a selector switch to
tors to run slowly, lights to dim and other compo-
allow the reading of different voltage ranges. The
nents to not operate properly.

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-27
1. Remove the fuse box cover.
2. lnsoect the fuses to determine which is faulty.
REPLACEMENT 3. Grasp the fuse and remove it from the fuse
box. Never exceed the amperage rating of a blown
4. Inspect the box terminals and clean if cor- fuse. If the replacement fuse also blows,
It See Figures 120 thru 127 check for a problem in the circuit.
roded. If any terminals are damaged, replace the ter-
Fuses are located either in the engine Compartment minals. ’
5. Plug in a new fuse of the same amperage rat- 6. Check for proper operation of the affected
or passenger compartment fuse and relay panels. If a component or circuit.
fuse blows, at least one, but possibly several compo- ing.
ients/circuits will not function properly.
Fig, 120 The engine compartment fuse box
is typically located adjacent to the
battery
Fig. 122 The engine compartment fuse box
contains a combination of fuses, maxi-
fuses, relays, and diodes. Most can be re-
moved by simply pulling upward
I Do not replace blown fusible links with stan-
dard wire. Only fusible type wire with Hy
palon insulation can be
used, or damage to
the electrical system will occur!
A number of fusible links are used on these vehi-
cles to protect wiring and electrical components.
There is a collection of fusible links located near the
battery. These are referred to as the main fuse links. A
second group of links are located in the box with the
dedicated fuses. If replacement of a fuse link is re-
quired, use the exact same link as removed.
When a fusible link blows it is very important to
Fig. 121 Grasp the engine compartment find out why. They are placed in the electrical system
. ’ ‘“‘,+“” 1 ous wiring failures. fuse box cover and pull It straight up to re- for protection against dead shorts to ground, which
move it can be caused by electrical component failure or vari-
Fig. 123 The interior fuse box is located un-
der the driver’s side of the instrument panel
Fig. 125 Typically a fuse removal tool is lo-
cated in the fuse box to aid in removing the
fuses Fig. 126 Grasp the fuse with the removal
tool and pull it straight out to remove it Fig. 124 Grasp the interior fuse box cover,
depress the retaining
tabs and lift up to re-

.
6-28 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
Do not just replace the fosible link to correct
a problem! RESETTlNGAND/OR REPLACEMENT REPLACEMENT
When replacing all fusible links, they are to be re-
placed with the same type of prefabricated link avail-
able from your vehicle manufacturer. Circuit breakers are located inside the fuse panel.
They are automatically reset when the problem cor-
rects itself, is repaired, or the circuit cools down to
allow operation again. The turn signal and hazard flasher unit is located
in the interior fuse panel located under the driver’s
left side knee protector. They are replaced by simply
pulling them straight out. Note that the prongs are
arranged in such a way that the flasher must be prop-
erly oriented before attempting to install it. Turn the
flasher until the orientation of the prongs is correct
and simply push it firmly in until the prongs are fully
engaged.
1990-92 Mirage fuse location chart
,-Lw 1993-96 Mirage fuse location chart
93156glO
1997-00 Mirage passenger compartment fuse
location chart
1997-00 Mirage engine compartment fuse location chart
Engine compartment
9ight side Engine compartment
I
I I 12 Power window
Control 30A
13
@I Radiator fan motor 30A
14 E-J
Headllghls 40A
15
;2” lgnttlon switch 30A NO Symbol Electrical system Capacrty
16 0 Fuse(+B) 60A
Some fuses may not be installed on your vehicle,
depending on the vehicle model or specihcations.
Identification of fuse
i0A Red

6-30 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
1992-96 Diamante fuse location chart
I
Fuse load caaacities 15 -2OA Horn
16 - 20A (E.C.S.)
1 - 15A Cigarette lighter 17 - spare fuse
2 - 10A Radio
3 - 10A Heater relay, (Power window ( ) indicates optlonal equipment
relay) E P.S.: Electronic Control Power Steer-
4 - 10A (E.P.S) ing
5 - 10A Turn signals, SRS E.C.S.: Electronic Control Suspension
6 - 10A Meters, SRS SRS~ Supplement Restratnt System
7 - 15A Wiper A/T: Automatic Transaxle
8-10A (4AIT)
9- 15A Steering handle lock, (Door
locks)
lo- 10A Dome light, Clock
11 - 10A Backup lights
12 -2OA StoplIghts
13 -3OA Heater
14 - 20A (Sunroof)
93156fllE
1997-00 Diamante passenger compartment fuse location chart No Symbol Electrical System
I capactty
I
Spare fuses are contained in the fuse housing
use a fuse of the same capacity for replacement.
199740 Diamante encline
compartment fuse location chart

.
TROUBLESHOOTING II-5
Condition Section/Item Number
One brake light inoperative
Both brake lights inoperative
One or both brake lights very dim 5-D, 1
5-D, 2
5-D, 3
Ignition, Battery and Alternator Warning Lights, Check Engine
Light, Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Light, Brake Warning
Light, Oil Pressure Warning Light, and Parking Brake Warning
Light
Warning light(s) remains on after the engine is started
Warning light(s) flickers on and off when driving
Warning light(s) inoperative with ignition on, and engine not started 5-E, 1
5-E, 2
5-E, 3
Turn signals or hazard lights come on, but do not flash
Turn signals or hazard lights do not function on either side
Turn signals or hazard lights only work on one side
One signal light does not work
Turn signals flash too slowly
Turn signals flash too fast
Four-way hazard flasher indicator light inoperative
Turn signal indicator light(s) do not work in either direction
One turn signal indicator light does not work 5-F, 1
5-F, 2
5-F, 3
5-F, 4
5-F, 5
5-F, 6
5-F, 7
5-F, 8
5-F, 9
Horn does not operate
Horn has an unusual tone 5-G, 1
5-G, 2
Windshield wipers do not operate
Windshield wiper motor makes a humming noise, gets hot or blows fuses
Windshield wiper motor operates but one or both wipers fail to move
Windshield wipers will not park 5-H, 1
5-H, 2
5-H, 3
5-H, 4
Speedometer does not work
Speedometer needle fluctuates when driving at steady speeds
Speedometer works intermittently 6-A, 1
6-A, 2
6-A, 3
Speedometer does not work
Speedometer works intermittently 6-B, 1
6-B, 2
Gauge does not register 6-C 1
Gauge operates erratically 6-C 2
’
Gauge operates fully pegged 6-C 3
No air coming from air conditioner vents 7-A, 1
Air conditioner blows warm air ’ 7-A, 2
Water collects on the interior floor when the air conditioner is used
Air conditioner has a moldy odor when used 7-A, 3
7-A, 4
Blower motor does not operate
Heater blows cool air
Heater steams the windshield when used 7-B, 1
7-B, 2
7-B, 3

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-9
c. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for blown fuses or defective fan motors, temperature sensors and relays, and
replace failed components.
d. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
e. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
f. Check for a damaged water pump. If coolant circulation is poor, check for a loose wa-
ter pump impeller. If the impeller is loose, replace the water pump.
2. Engine loses coolant
a. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.
b. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
3. Engine temperature remains co/d when driving
a. Check the thermostat operation. Replace the thermostat if it sticks in the open posi-
tion.
b. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for defective temperature sensors and stuck relays, and replace failed compo-
nents.
c. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
4. Engine runs hot
a. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
b. Check for a loose or slipping water pump drive belt. Inspect the drive belt condition.
Replace the belt if brittle, cracked or damaged. Check the pulley condition and prop-
erly tension the belt.
c. Check the cooling fan operation. Replace defective fan motors, sensors or relays as
necessary.
d. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
e. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot, check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture. Once the engine is cool, recheck the fluid level and
top off as needed.
NOTE: The engine cooling system can also be affected by an engine’s me-
chanical condition. A failed head gasket or a porous casting in the engine
block or cylinder head could cause a loss of coolant and result in engine
overheating.
Some cooling systems rely on electrically driven cooling fans to cool the radiator and
use electrical temperature sensors and relays to operate the cooling fan. When diagnos-
ing these systems, check for blown fuses, damaged wires and verify that the electrical
connections are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean
the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning igents not specifically designed for electrical contacts could leave a film or damage the insulation of
the wiring.
1. Exhaust rattles at idle speed
a. Check the engine and transmission mounts and replace mounts showing signs of
damage or wear.
b. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
d. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
2. Exhaust system vibrates when driving
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, check for bent or damaged components and
replace, then loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
3. Exhaust system hangs too low
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust routing and alignment. Check and replace bent or damaged com-
ponents. If the exhaust is not routed properly, loosen and reposition the exhaust sys-
tern.
4. Exhaust sounds loud
a. Check the system for looseness and leaks. Check the exhaust pipes, clamps, flange
bolts and manifold fasteners for tightness. Check and replace any failed gaskets.
b. Check and replace exhaust silencers that have a loss of efficiency due to internally
broken baffles or worn packing material.
c. Check for missing mufflers and silencers that have been replaced with straight pipes
or with non-original equipment silencers.
NOTE: Exhaust system rattles, vibration and proper alignment should not
be overlooked. Excessive vibration caused by collapsed engine mounts,
damaged or missing exhaust hangers and misalignment may cause surface
cracks and broken welds, creating exhaust leaks or internal damage to ex-
haust components such as the catalytic converter, creating a restriction to
exhaust flow and loss of power.
1. Transmission shit& erratically
a. Check and if not within the recommended range, add or remove transmission fluid to
obtain the correct fluid level. Always use the recommended fluid type when adding
transmission fluid.
b. Check the fluid level condition. If the fluid has become contaminated, fatigued from
excessive heat or exhibits a burning odor, change the transmission fluid and filter us-
ing the recommended type and amount of fluid. A fluid which exhibits a burning odor
indicates that the transmission has been slipping internally and may require future re-
pairs.
c. Check for an improperly installed transmission filter, or missing filter gasket, and re-
pair as necessary.
d. Check for loose or leaking gaskets, pressure lines and fittings, and repair or replace as
necessary.
e. Check for loose or disconnected shift and throttle linkages or vacuum hoses, and re-
pair as necessary. ,
2. Transmission will not engage
a. Check the shift linkage for looseness, wear and proper adjustment, and repair as nec-
essary. b. Check for a loss of transmission fluid and top off as needed with the recommended
fluid.
c. If the transmission does not engage with the shift linkage correctly installed and the
proper fluid level, internal damage has likely occurred, requiring transmission removal
and disassembly.
3. Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration
a. On computer controlled transmissions, check for failed sensors or control units and
repair or replace defective components.
b. On vehicles with kickdown linkages or vacuum servos, check for proper linkage ad-
justment or leaking vacuum hoses or servo units.
NOTE: Mlany automatic transmissions use an electronic control module,
electrical sensors and solenoids to control transmission shifting. When
troubleshooting a vehicle with this type of system, be sure the electrical
connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If nec-
essary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The
use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts
could leave a film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

TROUBLESHOOTING 1145
d. Check the sensor wiring at the wheel sensors and the ABS control unit for a loose or
shorted wire and repair as necessary.
Brake Warninu Liaht a. Check the brakefluid~evel and check for possible leakage from the hydraulic lines and
seals. Top off brake fluid and repair leakage as necessary.
b. Check the brake linings for wear and replace as necessary.
c. Check for a loose or shorted brake warning light sensor or wire, and replace or repair
as necessary.
Oil Pressure Warning Light a. Stop the engine immediately. Check the engine oil level and check for a sudden and
rapid oil loss, such as a leaking oil line or oil pressure sensor, and repair or replace as
necessary.
b. Check the oil pressure sensor operation by substituting a known good sensor.
c. Check the oil pressure sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Disconnect the wire
from the oil pressure sensor and with the ignition in the ON position, but not running,
the oil pressure light should not be working. If the light works with the wire discon-
nected, check the sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Check the wire routing to
make sure the wire is not pinched and check for insulation damage. Repair or replace
the wire as necessary and recheck before starting the engine.
d. Remove the oil pan and check for a clogged oil pick-up tube screen.
Parking Brake Warning Light a. Check the brake release mechanism and verify the parking brake has been fully re-
leased.
b. Check the parking brake light switch for looseness or misalignment.
c. Check for a damaged switch or a loose or shorted brake light switch wire, and replace
or repair as necessary.
3. Warning li#ht(s) inoperative with iflnition on,
and engine not started
a. Check for a defective bulb by installing a known good bulb.
b. Check for a defective wire using the appropriate wiring diagram(s).
c. Check for a defective sending unit by removing and then grounding the wire at the
sending unit. If the light comes on with the ignition on when grounding the wire, re-
place the sending unit.
1. Turn siflnais or hazard iiflhts come on, but do not flash
a. Check for a defective flasher unit and replace as necessary.
2. Turn signals or hazard iiflhts do not function on either side
a. Check the fuse and replace, if defective.
b. Check the flasher unit by substituting a known good flasher unit.
c. Check the turn signal electrical system for a defective component, open circuit, short
circuit or poor ground.
3. Turn siflnais or hazard lights only work on one side
a. Check for failed bulbs and replace as necessary.
b. Check for poor grounds in both housings and repair as necessary.
4. One siflnai light does not work
a. Check for a failed bulb and replace as necessary.
b. Check for corrosion in the bulb socket, and clean and repair as necessary.
c. Check for a poor ground at the bulb socket, and clean and repair as necessary.
5. Turn signals flash too slowly
a. Check signal bulb(s) wattage and replace with lower wattage bulb(s). 6. Turn signals flash too fast
a, Check signal bulb(s) wattage and replace with higher wattage bulb(s).
b. Check for installation of the correct flasher unit and replace if incorrect.
7. Four-way hazard flasher indicator iiflhi inoperative
a. Verify that the exterior lights are functioning and, if so, replace indicator bulb.
b. Check the operation of the warning flasher switch and replace if defective.
0. Turn signal indicator ii#ht(s) do not work in either direction
a. Verify that the exterior lights are functioning and, if so, replace indicator bulb(s).
b. Check for a defective flasher unit by substituting a known good unit.
9. One turn signal indicator liflht does not work
a. Check for a defective bulb and replace as necessary.
b. Check for a defective flasher unit by substituting a known good unit.
1. Horn does not operate
a. Check for a defective fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check for battery voltage and ground at horn electrical connections when pressing the
horn switch. If voltage is present, replace the horn assembly. If voltage or ground is
not present, refer to Chassis Electrical coverage for additional troubleshooting tech-
niques and circuit information.
2. Horn has an unusual tone
a. On single horn systems, replace the horn.
b. On dual horn systems, check the operation of the second horn. Dual horn systems
have a high and low pitched horn. Unplug one horn at a time and recheck operation.
Replace the horn which does not function.
c. Check for debris or condensation build-up in horn and verify the horn positioning. If
the horn has a single opening, adjust the opening downward to allow for adequate
drainage and to prevent debris build-up.
1. Windshield wipers do not operate
a. Check fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check switch operation and repair or replace as necessary.
c. Check for corroded, loose, disconnected or broken wires and clean or repair as neces-
sary.
d. Check the ground circuit for the wiper switch or motor and repair as necessary.
2. Windshield wiper motor makes a humming noise, gets hot or blows
fuses
a. Wiper motor damaged internally; replace the wiper motor.
b. Wiper linkage bent, damaged or seized. Repair or replace wiper linkage as necessary.
3. Windshield wiper motor operates, but one or both wipers fail to move
a. Windshield wiper motor linkage loose or disconnected. Repair or replace linkage as
necessary.
b. Windshield wiper arms loose on wiper pivots. Secure wiper arm to pivot or replace
both the wiper arm and pivot assembly.
4. Windshield wipers will not park
a. Check the wiper switch operation and verify that the switch properly interrupts the
power supplied to the wiper motor.
b. If the wiper switch is functioning properly, the wiper motor parking circuit has failed.
Replace the wiper motor assembly. Operate the wiper motor at least one time before
installing the arms and blades to ensure correct positioning, then recheck using the
highest wiper speed on a wet windshield to make sure the arms and blades do not
contact the windshield trim.
1. Speedometer does not work to minimize sharp bends or kinks.
If the sheathing has been
damaged, replace the ca-
a. Check and verify that the speedometer cable is properly seated into the speedometer ble assembly.
assembly and the speedometer drive gear. b. Check the speedometer cable for adequate lubrication. Remove the cable, inspect for
b. Check the speedometer cable for breakage or rounded-off cable ends where the cable damage, clean, lubricate and reinstall. If the cable has been damaged, replace the ca-
seats into the speedometer drive gear and into the speedometer assembly. If damaged, ble.
broken or the cable ends are rounded off, replace the cable.
c. Check speedometer drive gear condition and replace as necessary. 3. Speedometer works intermittently
d. Install a known good speedometer to test for proper operation. If the substituted a. Check the cable and verify that the cable is fully installed and the fasteners are secure.
speedometer functions properly, replace the speedometer assembly. b. Check the cable ends for wear and rounding, and replace as necessary.