brake light SUZUKI FORENZA 2007 User Guide

4-6 DRIVING YOUR VEHICLE
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Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be
more effective than braking. For example,
you come over a hill and find a truck
stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly
pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out
from between parked cars and stops right
in front of you. You can avoid these prob-
lems by braking – if you can stop in time.
But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room.
That’s the time for evasive action – steer-
ing around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emer-
gencies like these. First apply your brakes
but, unless you have anti-lock, not enough
to lock your wheels.
See “Braking” in this section. It is better to
remove as much speed as you can from a
possible collision. Then steer around the
problem, to the left or right depending on
the space available.An emergency like this requires close
attention and a quick decision. If you are
holding the steering wheel at the recom-
mended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can
turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly with-
out removing either hand. But you have to
act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly
straighten the wheel once you have
avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations
are always possible is a good reason to
practice defensive driving at all times and
wear safety belts properly.
Off-Road RecoveryYou may find that your right wheels have
dropped off the edge of a road onto the
shoulder while you’re driving.If the level of the shoulder is only slightly
below the pavement, recovery should be
fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and
then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so
that your vehicle straddles the edge of the
pavement. You can turn the steering wheel
up to one-quarter turn until the right front
tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn
your steering wheel to go straight down the
roadway.
Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass
another on a two-lane highway waits for
just the right moment, accelerates, moves
around the vehicle ahead, then goes back
into the right lane again. A simple maneu-
ver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle
on a two-lane highway is a potentially dan-
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4-8 DRIVING YOUR VEHICLE
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steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you start steering quickly enough, your
vehicle may straighten out. Always be
ready for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water,
snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the
road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down
and adjust your driving to these conditions.
It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be
longer and vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced
traction, try your best to avoid sudden
steering, acceleration or braking (including
engine braking by shifting to a lower gear).
Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is
slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues – such
as enough water, ice or packed snow on
the road to make a “mirrored surface” –
and slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti-lock braking system,
remember: It helps avoid only the braking
skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a
braking skid (where the wheels are no
longer rolling), release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling
again. This restores steering control. Push
the brake pedal down steadily when you
have to stop suddenly. As long as the
wheels are rolling, you will have steering
control.
Driving at NightNight driving is more dangerous than day
driving. One reason is that some drivers
are likely to be impaired – by alcohol or
drugs, with night vision problems, or by
fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
 Drive defensively.
 Don’t drink and drive.
 Adjust your inside rearview mirror to
reduce the glare from headlamps behind
you.
 Since you can’t see as well, you may
need to slow down and keep more space
between you and other vehicles.
 Slow down, especially on higher speed
roads. Your headlamps can light up only
so much road ahead.
 In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe
place and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the
daytime. But as we get older these differ-
ences increase. A 50-year-old driver may
require at least twice as much light to see
the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect
your night vision. For example, if you
spend the day in bright sunshine you are
wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will
have less trouble adjusting to night. But if
you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at
night. They may cut down on glare from
headlamps, but they also make a lot of
things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by
approaching headlamps. It can take a sec-
ond or two, or even several seconds, for
your eyes to readjust to the dark. When
you are faced with severe glare (as from a
driver who doesn’t lower the high beams,
or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps),
slow down a little. Avoid staring directly
into the approaching headlamps.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on
your vehicle clean – inside and out. Glare
at night is made much worse by dirt on the
glass. Even the inside of the glass can
build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass
makes lights dazzle and flash more than
clean glass would, making the pupils of
your eyes contract repeatedly.
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Remember that your headlamps light up
far less of a roadway when you are in a
turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that
way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted
objects. Just as your headlamps should be
checked regularly for proper aim, so
should your eyes be examined regularly.
Some drivers suffer from night blindness –
the inability to see in dim light – and aren’t
even aware of it.Driving in Rain and on Wet RoadsRain and wet roads can mean driving trou-
ble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, acceler-
ate or turn as well because your tire-to-
road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads.
And, if your tires don’t have much tread
left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always
wise to go slower and be cautious if rain
starts to fall while you are driving. The sur-
face may get wet suddenly when yourreflexes are tuned for driving on dry pave-
ment.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see.
Even if your windshield wiper blades are in
good shape, a heavy rain can make it
harder to see road signs and traffic signals,
pavement markings, the edge of the road
and even people walking.
It’s wise to keep your windshield wiping
equipment in good shape and keep your
windshield washer tank filled with washer
fluid. Replace your windshield wiper
inserts when they show signs of streaking
or missing areas on the windshield, or
when strips of rubber start to separate
from the inserts.Driving too fast through large water pud-
dles or even going through some car
washes can cause problems, too. The
water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid
puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down
before you hit them.
WARNING
Wet brakes can cause accidents.
They won’t work as well in a quick
stop and may cause pulling to one
side. You could lose control of the
vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle
of water or a car wash, apply your
brake pedal lightly until your brakes
work normally.
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 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert.
There could be something in your lane,
like a stalled car or an accident.
 You may see highway signs on moun-
tains that warn of special problems.
Examples are long grades, passing or
no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or
winding roads. Be alert to these and take
appropriate action.Winter DrivingHere are some tips for winter driving:
 Have your vehicle in good shape for win-
ter.
 You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in your trunk.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or
broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid,
a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small
shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a cou-
ple of reflective warning triangles. And, if
you will be driving under severe conditions,
include a small bag of sand, a piece of old
carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help
provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your
tires meet the road probably have good
traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between
your tires and the road, you can have a
very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot
less traction or “grip” and will need to be
very careful.Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard
to drive on. But wet ice can be even more
trouble because it may offer the least trac-
tion of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing
rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on
wet ice until salt and sand crews can get
there.
Whatever the condition – smooth ice,
packed, blowing or loose snow – drive with
caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the frag-
ile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the
drive wheels will spin and polish the sur-
face under the tires even more.
Unless you have an anti-lock braking sys-
tem, you’ll want to brake very gently, too. (If
you do have anti-lock, see “Braking” in this
section. This system improves your vehi-
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TowingTowing Your VehicleConsult your SUZUKI dealer or a profes-
sional towing service if you need to have
your disabled vehicle towed.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind
another vehicle for recreational purposes
(such as behind a motorhome), see the fol-
lowing section, “Recreational Vehicle Tow-
ing”.Recreational Vehicle TowingRecreational vehicle towing means towing
your vehicle behind another vehicle – such
as behind a motorhome. The two most
common types of recreational vehicle tow-
ing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing
your vehicle with all four wheels on the
ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your
vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a
“dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equip-
ment, many vehicles can be towed in these
ways. See the following sections, “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing”.Here are some important things to con-
sider before you do recreational vehicle
towing:
 What’s the towing capacity of the towing
vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehi-
cle manufacturer’s recommendations.
 How far will you tow? Some vehicles
have restrictions on how far and how
long they can tow.
 Do you have the proper towing equip-
ment? See your SUZUKI dealer or traile-
ring professional for additional advice
and equipment recommendations.
 Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just
as you would prepare your vehicle for a
long trip, you’ll want to make sure your
vehicle is prepared to be towed. See
“Before Leaving on a Long Trip” in this
section.
Dinghy Towing
Your vehicle was not designed to be towed
with all four wheels on the ground. If your
vehicle must be towed, you should use a
dolly. See “Dolly Towing” that follows for
more information.Dolly Towing
Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To
tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these
steps:
1) Put the front wheels on the dolly.
2) Put the vehicle in PARK (P) for auto-
matic transaxle and NEUTRAL (N) for
manual transaxle.
3) Set the parking brake and then remove
the ignition key.
4) For a vehicle with an automatic tran-
saxle, remove the hole cover from the
shift lock release slot, insert the key,
WARNING
Always use a safety chain when tow-
ing your vehicle and be sure to
observe federal, state, and local
requirement for trailer hitches, tow
bars, lights, etc.
CAUTION
Towing your vehicle with all four
wheels on the ground will damage
drivetrain components. The repairs
would not be covered by your war-
ranty.
CAUTION
Do not tow the vehicle from the rear
with the front wheels on the road.
This could cause severe transmis-
sion damage.
Towing:

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Hydraulic ClutchThere is one reservoir for both the brake
and the hydraulic clutch fluid. See “Brakes”
in this section for more information.
The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle
is self-adjusting. The master cylinder res-
ervoir is filled with hydraulic fluid.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a
problem. Have the system inspected and
repaired.
When to Check and What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to
determine how often you should check the
fluid level and for the proper fluid. See sec-
tion 6.
How to Check and Add Fluid
To check the fluid level, look on the side of
the reservoir. If the fluid level is betweenthe MIN and the MAX marks on the reser-
voir, the fluid level is correct. The reservoir
is located near the back of the engine com-
partment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
See “Engine Compartment Overview” in
this section for more information on loca-
tion.
Engine CoolantThe following explains your cooling system
and how to add coolant when it is low. If
you have a problem with engine overheat-
ing, see “Engine Overheating” in this sec-
tion.
What to Use
The cooling system in your vehicle is
designed to use either Dex-cool coolant,
which is red in color, or silicate based cool-
ant, which is blue. These two types of cool-
ant are not compatible with each other and
should never be mixed. Therefore, if the
original coolant in your vehicle’s cooling
system was red, then you should use only
Dex-cool coolant for the life of your vehicle.
If the original coolant in your vehicle's cool-
ing system was blue, then you should use
only silicate based coolant for the life of
your vehicle. Even if the cooling system
has been completely drained before a refill,
do not switch types of coolant.Use a 60/40 mixture of clean, drinkable
water and engine coolant which won’t
damage aluminum parts. If another type of
coolant is used, aluminum parts might be
subject to corrosion.
You can also use a recycled coolant with a
complete coolant flush and refill. If you use
this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add
anything else.
A 60/40 mixture of clean, drinkable water
and proper coolant will:
 Give freezing protection down to –33°F
(–36°C).
 Give boiling protection up to 268°F
(131°C).
 Protect against rust and corrosion.
 Help keep the proper engine tempera-
ture.
 Let the warning lights and gauges work
as they should.
For protection in extremely cold weather
conditions, use a 50/50 mixture of clean,
drinkable water and proper coolant.
WARNING
Do not mix Dex-cool and silicate
based coolant in your coolant sys-
tem.
The mixture can damage the cooling
system.
Checking Things Under the Hood:

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When your brake fluid falls to a low level,
your brake warning light will come on. See
“Brake System Warning Light” in section 3.
What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only
DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid
from a sealed container only. See “Recom-
mended Fluids and Lubricants” in section
6.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap
and the area around the cap before remov-
ing it. This will help keep dirt from entering
the reservoir.Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front and rear disc brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indica-
tors that make a high-pitched warning
sound when the brake pads are worn and
new pads are needed. The sound may
come and go or be heard all the time your
vehicle is moving (except when you are
pushing on the brake pedal firmly).Some driving conditions or climates may
cause a brake squeal when the brakes are
first applied or lightly applied. This does
not mean something is wrong with your
brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary
to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires
are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear
and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper
sequence to SUZUKI torque specifica-
tions.
Brake linings should always be replaced as
complete axle sets.
See “Brake System Inspection” in section
6.
WARNING
If you have too much brake fluid, it
can spill on the engine. The fluid will
burn if the engine is hot enough. You
or others could be burned, and your
vehicle could be damaged.
WARNING
With the wrong kind of fluid in your
brake system, your brakes may not
work well, or they may not even work
at all. This could cause a crash.
Always use the proper brake fluid.
CAUTION
 Using the wrong fluid can badly
damage brake system parts. For
example, just a few drops of min-
eral-based oil, such as engine oil,
in your brake system can damage
brake system parts so badly that
they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let
someone put in the wrong kind of
fluid.
 If you spill brake fluid on your vehi-
cle’s painted surfaces, the paint fin-
ish can be damaged. Be careful not
to spill brake fluid on your vehicle.
If you do, wash it off immediately.
See “Appearance Care” in the
Index.
WARNING
The brake wear warning sound
means that soon your brakes won’t
work well. That could lead to an acci-
dent. When you hear the brake wear
warning sound, have your vehicle
serviced.
CAUTION
Continuing to drive with worn-out
brake pads could result in costly
brake repair.
Checking Things Under the Hood:

5-21 SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
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2) Get the vehicles close enough so the
jumper cables can reach, but be sure
the vehicles aren’t touching each other.
If they are, it could cause a ground con-
nection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be
able to start your vehicle, and the bad
grounding could damage the electrical
systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles
rolling, set the parking brake firmly on
both vehicles involved in the jump start
procedure. Put an automatic transmis-
sion in PARK (P) or a manual transmis-
sion in NEUTRAL before setting the
parking brake.3) Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.
Unplug unnecessary accessories
plugged into the cigarette lighter or in
the accessory power outlet. Turn off the
radio and all lamps that aren’t needed.
This will avoid sparks and help save
both batteries. And it could save your
radio!
4) Open the hoods and locate the batter-
ies. Find the positive (+) and negative
(–) terminal locations on each vehicle.
Your vehicle’s positive (+) terminal is
located under a red tethered cap on the
battery. The negative (–) terminal is
located under a black tethered cap on
the battery. See “Engine Compartment
Overview” in this section for more infor-
mation on location. Flip the caps up to
access the positive (+) and negative (–)
terminals.
5) Check that the jumper cables don’t
have loose or missing insulation. If they
do, you could get a shock. The vehicles
could be damaged, too.
Before you connect the cables, here are
some basic things you should know.
Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehi-
cle has one. Negative (–) will go to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine part or
to a remote negative (–) terminal if the
vehicle with the dead battery has one.
Don’t connect positive (+) to negative
(–) or you’ll get a short that would dam-
CAUTION
If the other system isn’t a 12-volt sys-
tem with a negative ground, both
vehicles can be damaged. Only use
vehicles with 12-volt systems with
negative grounds to jump start your
vehicle.
CAUTION
If you leave your radio or other acces-
sories on during the jump starting
procedure, they could be damaged.
The repairs wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty. Always turn off your
radio and other accessories when
jump starting your vehicle.
WARNING
An electric fan under the hood can
start up and injure you even when the
engine is not running. Keep hands,
clothing and tools away from any
underhood electric fan.
WARNING
Using a match near a battery can
cause battery gas to explode. People
have been hurt doing this, and some
have been blinded. Use a flashlight if
you need more light.
Be sure the battery has enough
water. You don’t need to add water to
the battery installed in your new vehi-
cle. But if a battery has filler caps, be
sure the right amount of fluid is
there. If it is low, add water to take
care of that first. If you don’t, explo-
sive gas could be present.
Battery fluid contains acid that can
burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you
accidentally get it in your eyes or on
your skin, flush the place with water
and get medical help immediately.
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Glossary of Tire TerminologyAir Pressure:
The amount of air inside the tire pressing
outward on each square inch of the tire. Air
pressure is expressed in pounds per
square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:
This means the combined weight of
optional accessories. Some examples of
optional accessories are automatic trans-
mission, power steering, power brakes,
power windows, power seats, and air con-
ditioning.
Aspect Ratio:
The relationship of a tire’s height to its
width.
Belt:
A rubber coated layer of cords that is
located between the plies and the tread.
Cords may be made from steel or other
reinforcing materials.
Bead:
The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped
by steel cords that hold the tire onto the
rim.
Bias Ply Tire:
A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid
at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to
the centerline of the tread.Cold Inflation Pressure:
The amount of air pressure in a tire, mea-
sured in pounds per square inch (psi)
before a tire has built up heat from driving.
Curb Weight:
This means the weight of a motor vehicle
with standard and optional equipment
including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil
and coolant, but without passengers and
cargo.
DOT Markings:
A code molded into the sidewall of a tire
signifying that the tire is in compliance with
the U.S. Department of Transportation
motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT
code includes the Tire Identification Num-
ber (TIN), an alphanumeric designator
which can also identify the tire manufac-
turer, production plant, brand and date of
production.
GVWR:
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.
This is the maximum permissible overall
weight of the fully loaded vehicle (including
all occupants, accessories and cargo).
GAWR:
Gross Axle Weight Rating.
This is the maximum permissible weight on
an individual axle.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:
The side of an asymmetrical tire that must
always face outward when mounted on a
vehicle.Kilopascal (kPa):
The metric unit for air pressure. There are
6.9 kPa’s to one psi.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:
A tire used on light duty trucks and some
multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index:
An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure:
The maximum air pressure to which a cold
tire may be inflated. The maximum air
pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:
The load rating for a tire at the maximum
permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:
The sum of curb weight; accessory weight;
vehicle capacity weight; and production
options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight:
The number of occupants a vehicle is
designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds
(68 kg).
Occupant Distribution:
Distribution of occupants in a vehicle as
specified in the third column of Table 1
(shown below).
Outward Facing Sidewall:
The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a
particular side that faces outward when
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5-32 SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
85Z03-03E
mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire
that contains a whitewall, bears white let-
tering or bears manufacturer, brand and or
model name molding that is higher or
deeper than the same moldings on the
other sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire:
A tire used on passenger cars and some
light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
Production Options Weight:
The combined weight of those installed
regular production options weighing over
2.3 kilograms in excess of those standard
items which they replace, not previously
considered in curb weight or accessory
weight, including heavy duty brakes, ride
levelers, roof rack, heavy duty battery, and
special trim.
Recommended Inflation Pressure:
Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire
inflation pressure shown on the tire plac-
ard.
Radial Ply Tire:
A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that
extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees
to the centerline of the tread.
Rim:
A metal support for a tire and upon which
the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall:
The portion of a tire between the tread and
the bead.Speed Rating:
An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire
indicating the maximum speed at which a
tire can operate.
Traction:
The friction between the tire and the road
surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread:
The portion of a tire that comes into con-
tact with the road.
Tread wear Indicators:
Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear
bars,” that show across the tread of a tire
when only 2/32 inch of tread remains.
UTQGS:
Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a
tire information system that provides con-
sumers with ratings for a tire’s traction,
temperature and tread wear. Ratings are
determined by tire manufacturers using
government testing procedures. The rat-
ings are molded into the sidewall of the
tire.
Vehicle Capacity Weight:
The number of designated seating posi-
tions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the
rated cargo load.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire:
The load on an individual tire that is deter-
mined by distributing to each axle its share
of the maximum loaded vehicle weight and
dividing by two.Vehicle Normal Load on the Tire:
The load on an individual tire that is deter-
mined by distributing to each axle its share
of the curb weight, accessory weight, and
normal occupant weight (distributed in
accordance with Table 1 shown below) and
dividing by 2.
TABLE 1 – Occupant Loading and Dis-
tribution For Vehicle Normal Load For
Various Designated Seating Capacities
Vehicle Placard:
A label permanently attached to a vehicle
showing the original equipment tire size
and recommended inflation pressure.
Designated
seating capac-
ity, number of
occupantsVehicle nor-
mal load, num-
ber of
occupantsOccupant
distribution in
a normally
loaded vehicle
2 through 4 2 2 in front
5 through 10 32 in front, 1 in
second seat
Tires: