wheel BMW 3 SERIES 1985 E30 User Guide

Cartridge-type oil filter
17Some models are equipped with a
cartridge-type oil filter. Unscrew the bolt,
remove the cover, and lift the filter out (see
illustrations).
18Compare the new cartridge with the old
one, to make sure they are the same type,
then lower it into the housing.
19Using a clean rag, wipe off the mounting
surface of the housing and cover. If necessary,
renew the rubber O-ring (see illustration).
Smear some clean oil on the O-ring and refit
the cover and bolt. Tighten the bolt securely.
All models
20Remove all tools and materials from under
the vehicle, being careful not to spill the oil
from the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.
21Add new oil to the engine through the oil
filler cap in the valve cover. Use a funnel to
prevent oil from spilling onto the top of the
engine. Pour the specified quantity of fresh oil
into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the
oil to drain into the sump, then check the level
on the dipstick (see Section 4 if necessary). If
the oil level is correct, refit the filler cap.
22Start the engine and run it for about a
minute. The oil pressure warning light may
take a few seconds to go out while the new
filter fills with oil; don’t rev the engine while
the light is on. While the engine is running,
look under the vehicle, and check for leaks at
the sump drain plug and around the oil filter. Ifeither one is leaking, stop the engine and
tighten the plug or filter slightly.
23Wait a few minutes, then recheck the level
on the dipstick. Add oil as necessary.
24During the first few days after an oil
change, make it a point to check frequently
for leaks and proper oil level.
25The old oil drained from the engine cannot
be re-used in its present state, and should be
discarded. Oil reclamation centres and some
service stations will accept the oil, which can
be recycled. After the oil has cooled, it can be
transferred into a container for transport to a
disposal site.
7 Power steering fluid level
check
1
1Check the power steering fluid level
periodically to avoid steering system
problems, such as damage to the pump.
Proceed as follows.Caution: Do not hold the steering
wheel against either stop (full-left
or full-right lock) for more than
five seconds. If you do, the power
steering pump could be damaged.
2On some models, the power steering fluid
reservoir is located on the left side of the
engine compartment, and has a twist-off cap
with an integral fluid level dipstick (see
illustration). Other models use a hydraulic
power steering and brake servo system which
combines the fluid in one reservoir, located at
the right rear corner of the engine
compartment.
3Park the vehicle on level ground, and apply
the handbrake.
4On models with a fluid dipstick, run the
engine until it has reached normal operating
temperature. With the engine at idle, turn the
steering wheel back and forth several times to
get any air out of the steering system. Switch
off the engine, remove the cap by turning it
anti-clockwise, wipe the dipstick clean, and
refit the cap. Remove the cap again, and note
the fluid level. It must be between the two
lines (see illustration).
5On hydraulic servo models, pump the brake
pedal about ten times or until the pedal is firm.
Remove the nut, lift the cap off, and make
sure the fluid is within 6.0 mm of the top of the
reservoir.
6Add small amounts of fluid until the level is
correct (see illustration).
1•12
7.6 Adding fluid to the power steering
reservoir7.4 The power steering fluid level should
be kept between the two arrows near the
upper step on the dipstick7.2 The power steering fluid reservoir
(arrowed) is located on the left side of the
engine compartment
6.19 Renewing the rubber O-ring in the
cover6.17c . . . and lift out the cartridge
Every 6000 miles
6.17b . . . remove the cover . . .
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

Caution: Do not overfill the
reservoir. If too much fluid is
added, remove the excess with a
clean syringe. Refit the cap.
7If frequent topping-up is needed, check the
power steering hoses and connections for
leaks and wear (see Section 10).
8Check the condition and tension of the
drivebelt (see Section 11).
8 Automatic transmission fluid
level check
1
Caution: The use of transmission
fluid other than the type listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications
could result in transmission
malfunctions or failure.
1The automatic transmission fluid should be
carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead
to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling
can cause foaming and loss of fluid. Either
condition can cause transmission damage.
2Since transmission fluid expands as it heats
up, the fluid level should only be checked
when the transmission is warm (at normal
operating temperature). If the vehicle has just
been driven over 20 miles (32 km), the
transmission can be considered warm. You
can also check the fluid level when the
transmission is cold. If the vehicle has not
been driven for over five hours and the fluid is
about room temperature (20°C), the
transmission is cold. However, the fluid level
is normally checked with the transmission
warm, to ensure accurate results.
Caution: If the vehicle has just
been driven for a long time at
high speed or in city traffic, in hot
weather, or if it has been pulling
a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading
cannot be obtained. Allow the trans-
mission to cool down for about 30 minutes.
3Immediately after driving the vehicle, park it
on a level surface, apply the handbrake and
start the engine. While the engine is idling,
depress the brake pedal and move theselector lever through all the gear ranges,
beginning and ending in Park.
4The automatic transmission dipstick tube is
located in the left rear corner of the engine
compartment.
5With the engine still idling, pull the dipstick
out of the tube (see illustration), wipe it off
with a clean rag, push it all the way back into
the tube and withdraw it again, then note the
fluid level.
6The level should be between the two marks
(see illustration). If the level is low, add the
specified automatic transmission fluid through
the dipstick tube - use a clean funnel,
preferably equipped with a fine mesh filter, to
prevent spills.
Caution: Be careful not to
introduce dirt into the
transmission when topping up.
7Add just enough of the recommended fluid
to fill the transmission to the proper level. It
takes about half a litre to raise the level from
the low mark to the high mark when the fluid
is hot, so add the fluid a little at a time, and
keep checking the level until it’s correct.
8The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid is
black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it
smells burned, it should be changed (see
Section 28). If you are in doubt about its
condition, purchase some new fluid, and
compare the two for colour and smell.
9 Tyre rotation
1
1The tyres can be rotated at the specified
intervals, or whenever uneven wear is noticed.
However, bear in mind that if rotation
succeeds in making all the tyres wear evenly,
you will eventually have to renew all four at
once. Since the vehicle will be raised and the
wheels removed anyway, check the brakes
also (see Section 26). Note: Even if you don’t
rotate the tyres, at least check the wheel bolt
tightness.
2It is recommended that the tyres be rotatedin a specific pattern (see illustration)so that
their direction of rotation remains the same.
3Refer to the information in “Jacking and
towing”at the front of this manual for the
proper procedure to follow when raising the
vehicle and changing a tyre.
4The vehicle must be raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands to get all four tyres
off the ground. Make sure the vehicle is safely
supported!
5After the rotation procedure is finished,
check and adjust the tyre pressures as
necessary, and be sure to check the wheel
bolt tightness.
10 Underbonnet hose check
and renewal
3
Warning: Renewal of air
conditioning hoses must be left
to a dealer service department or
air conditioning specialist having
the equipment to depressurise the system
safely. Never disconnect air conditioning
hoses or components until the system has
been depressurised.
General
1High temperatures under the bonnet can
cause deterioration of the rubber and plastic
hoses used for various systems. Periodic
inspection should be made for cracks, loose
clamps, material hardening, and leaks.
2Information specific to the cooling system
can be found in Section 22, while the braking
system is covered in Section 26.
3Most (but not all) hoses are secured with
clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be
sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing
the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make
sure the hose has not expanded and/or
hardened where it slips over the fitting,
allowing it to leak.
Vacuum hoses
4It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be colour-coded or identified by coloured
1•13
9.2 The tyre rotation pattern for these
models8.6 With the fluid hot, the level should be
kept between the two dipstick notches,
preferably near the upper one8.5 The automatic transmission fluid
dipstick (arrowed) is located near the
bulkhead on the left side of the engine
compartment
1
Every 6000 miles

no cause for concern. Make sure that any fluid
noted is from the struts/shocks, and not from
any other source. If leakage is noted, renew
the struts or shock absorbers in axle pairs (or
as a full set).
7Check the struts/shock absorbers to be
sure that they are securely mounted and
undamaged. Check the upper mountings for
damage and wear. If damage or wear is
noted, renew the struts or shock absorbers.
8If the struts or shock absorbers must be
renewed, refer to Chapter 10 for the
procedure. Always renew both units on the
same axle, or the safety of the vehicle may be
compromised. If possible, renew all four as a
set.
Steering and suspension check
9Inspect the steering system components
for damage and distortion. Look for leaks and
damaged seals, boots and fittings.
10Clean the lower end of the steering
knuckle. Have an assistant grasp the lower
edge of the tyre and move the wheel in and
out, while you look for movement at the
steering knuckle-to-axle arm balljoints.
Inspect the balljoint boots for tears (see
illustration). If there is any movement, or the
boots are torn or leaking, the balljoint(s) must
be renewed.
11Grasp each front tyre at the front and rear
edges, push in at the front, pull out at the rear
and feel for play in the steering linkage. If any
free play is noted, check the steering gear
mountings and the track rod balljoints for
looseness. If the steering gear mountings are
loose, tighten them. If the track rods are
loose, the balljoints may be worn (check to
make sure the nuts are tight). Additional
steering and suspension system information
can be found in Chapter 10.
25 Driveshaft gaiter check
1
1The driveshaft gaiters are very important
because they prevent dirt, water and foreign
material from entering and damaging the
constant velocity (CV) joints. External oil and
grease contamination can cause the gaitermaterial to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water.
2Inspect the gaiters for tears and cracks, as
well as for loose clamps (see illustration). If
there is any evidence of cracks or leaking
lubricant, the gaiter must be renewed (see
Chapter 8).
26 Brake system check
2
Warning: Dust produced by lining
wear and deposited on brake
components may contain
asbestos, which is hazardous to
your health. Do not blow it out with
compressed air, and don’t inhale it! Do not
use petroleum-based solvents to remove
the dust. Brake system cleaner or
methylated spirit should be used to flush
the dust into a drain pan. After the brake
components are wiped with a damp rag,
dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and the
drain pan contents into a covered and
labelled container. Try to use asbestos-
free new parts whenever possible.
Note:In addition to the specified intervals, the
brake system should be inspected each time
the wheels are removed or a malfunction is
indicated. Because of the obvious safety con-
siderations, the following brake system checks
are some of the most important maintenance
procedures you can perform on your vehicle.
Symptoms of brake system
problems
1The disc brakes have built-in electrical wear
indicators which cause a warning light on the
dash to come on when they’re worn to the
renewal point. When the light comes on,
renew the pads immediately, or expensive
damage to the brake discs could result.
2Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) Vehicle pulls to one side when the brake
pedal is depressed
b) Brakes make squealing or dragging noises
when applied
c) Brake pedal travel excessived) Brake pedal pulsates (normal if ABS is
working)
e) Brake fluid leaks (usually on the inner side
of the tyre or wheel)
3If any of these conditions are noted, inspect
the brake system immediately.
Brake lines and hoses
Note: Steel brake pipes are used throughout
the brake system, with the exception of
flexible, reinforced hoses at the front wheels
and as connectors at the rear axle. Periodic
inspection of all these lines is very important.
4Park the vehicle on level ground, and
switch off the engine. Remove the wheel
covers. Loosen, but do not remove, the bolts
on all four wheels.
5Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6Remove the wheels (see “Jacking and
towing” at the front of this book, or refer to
your owner’s handbook, if necessary).
7Check all brake lines and hoses for cracks,
chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters, and
distortion. Check the brake hoses at front and
rear of the vehicle for softening, cracks,
bulging, or wear from rubbing on other
components. Check all threaded fittings for
leaks, and make sure the brake hose
mounting bolts and clips are secure.
8If leaks or damage are discovered, they
must be repaired immediately. Refer to
Chapter 9 for detailed brake system repair
procedures.
Disc brakes
9If it hasn’t already been done, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the front wheels.
10The disc brake calipers, containing the
pads, are now visible. Each caliper has an
outer and an inner pad - all pads should be
checked.
11Note the pad thickness by looking
through the inspection hole in the caliper (see
illustration). If the lining material is 2.0 mm
thick or less, or if it is tapered from end to
end, the pads should be renewed (see
Chapter 9). Keep in mind that the lining
1•22
26.11 Look through the caliper inspection
window to inspect the brake pads - the
pad lining which rubs against the disc can
also be inspected by looking through each
end of the caliper25.2 Gently probe the driveshaft boots to
check for cracks24.10 Inspect the balljoint boots for tears
(arrowed)
Every 12 000 miles

material is bonded to a metal plate or shoe -
the metal portion is not included in this
measurement. Always renew the pads on
both sides of the vehicle (in axle sets), even if
only one pad of the four is worn, or uneven
braking may result.
12Remove the calipers without
disconnecting the brake hoses (see Chap-
ter 9).
13Check the condition of the brake disc.
Look for score marks, deep scratches and
overheated areas (they will appear blue or
discoloured). If damage or wear is noted, the
disc can be removed and resurfaced by an
engineering workshop; otherwise, it will have
to be renewed. In either case, both discs
should be involved, even if only one is worn.
Refer to Chapter 9 for more detailed
inspection and repair procedures.
Drum brakes
14Refer to Chapter 9 and remove the rear
brake drums.
15Note the thickness of the lining material
on the rear brake shoes, and look for signs of
contamination by brake fluid or grease (see
illustration). If the material is within 2.0 mm of
the recessed rivets or metal shoes, renew the
brake shoes. The shoes should also be
renewed if they are cracked, glazed (shiny
lining surfaces), or contaminated with brake
fluid or grease. See Chapter 9 for the renewal
procedure.
16Check the shoe return and hold-down
springs and the adjusting mechanism. Make
sure all these components are fitted correctly,and are in good condition. Deteriorated or
distorted springs, if not renewed, could allow
the linings to drag and wear prematurely.
17Check the wheel cylinders for leakage by
carefully peeling back the rubber boots. Slight
moisture behind the boots is acceptable. If
brake fluid is noted behind the boots or if it
runs out of the wheel cylinder, the wheel
cylinders must be overhauled or renewed (see
Chapter 9).
18Check the drums for cracks, score marks,
deep scratches and high spots, which will
appear as small discoloured areas. If
imperfections cannot be removed with emery
cloth, both drums must be resurfaced by a
specialist (see Chapter 9 for more detailed
information).
19Refer to Chapter 9 and fit the brake
drums.
20Refit the wheels, but don’t lower the
vehicle yet.
Handbrake
21The easiest, and perhaps most obvious,
method of checking the handbrake is to park
the vehicle on a steep hill with the handbrake
applied and the transmission in Neutral (stay
in the vehicle while performing this check). If
the handbrake doesn’t prevent the vehicle
from rolling, refer to Chapter 9 and adjust it.
27 Wiper blades -
check and renewal
1
1Road film can build up on the wiper blades
and affect their efficiency, so they should bewashed regularly with a mild detergent
solution.
Check
2The wiper and blade assembly should be
inspected periodically. If inspection reveals
hardened or cracked rubber, renew the wiper
blades. If inspection reveals nothing unusual,
wet the windscreen, turn the wipers on, allow
them to cycle several times, then switch them
off. An uneven wiper pattern across the glass,
or streaks over clean glass, indicate that the
blades should be renewed.
3The operation of the wiper mechanism can
loosen the retaining nuts, so they should be
checked and tightened, as necessary, at the
same time the wiper blades are checked (see
Chapter 12 for further information regarding
the wiper mechanism).
Wiper blade renewal
4Pull the wiper/blade assembly away from
the glass.
5Press the retaining tab in, and slide the
blade assembly down the wiper arm (see
illustration).
6If you wish to renew the blade rubbers
separately, detach the end of the rubber from
the wiper blade frame, then slide the rubber
out of the frame (see illustration).
7Compare the new rubber with the old for
length, design, etc.
8Slide the new rubber into place, and insert
the end in the wiper blade frame to lock it in
place.
9Refit the blade assembly on the arm, then
wet the glass and check for proper operation.
1•23
27.6 Detach the end of the wiper element
from the end of the frame, then slide the
element out27.5 Press the retaining tab in, then slide
the wiper blade assembly down and out of
the hook in the end of the wiper arm26.15 If the lining is bonded to the brake
shoe, measure the lining thickness from
the outer surface to the metal shoe, as
shown here (A); if the lining is riveted to
the shoe, measure from the lining outer
surface to the rivet head
1
Every 12 000 miles
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years, whichever comes first
28 Automatic transmission fluid
and filter change
1
1At the specified intervals, the transmission
fluid should be drained and renewed. Since
the fluid will remain hot long after driving,perform this procedure only after the engine
has cooled down completely.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified transmission fluid (see “Lubricants
and fluids”at the beginning of this Chapter)
and a new filter.
3Other tools necessary for this job include axle
stands or ramps to support the vehicle in araised position, a drain pan capable of holding at
least 4.5 litres, and newspapers and clean rags.
4Raise the vehicle and support it securely.
5Loosen the dipstick tube collar, then detach
the dipstick tube and let the fluid drain (see
illustrations).
6Remove the transmission sump mounting
bolts and brackets (see illustration).

2A
General
Displacement
3-series, E30 body style
316i (1988 to 1991) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1596 cc (M40/4-cylinder engine)
316 (1983 to 1988) and 318i (1983 to 1987) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1766 cc (M10/4-cylinder engine)
318i (1987 1991) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 cc (M40/4-cylinder engine)
320i (1987 to 1991) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1990 cc (M20/6-cylinder engine)
325i (1987 to 1991) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2494 cc (M20/6-cylinder engine)
5-series, E28 body style (“old-shape”)
518 (1981 to 1985) and 518i (1985 to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1766 cc (M10/4-cylinder engine)
525i (1981 to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2494 cc (M30/6-cylinder engine)
528i (1981 to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2788 cc (M30/6-cylinder engine)
535i (1985 to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3430 cc (M30/6-cylinder engine)
M535i (1985 to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3430 cc (M30/6-cylinder engine)
5-series, E34 body style (“new-shape”)
518i (1990 to 1993) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 cc (M40/4-cylinder engine)
520i (1988 to 1991) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1990 cc (M20/6-cylinder engine)
525i (1988 to 1991) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2494 cc (M20/6-cylinder engine)
530i (1988 to 1991) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2986 cc (M30/6-cylinder engine)
535i (1988 to 1993) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3430 cc (M30/6-cylinder engine)
Firing order
Four-cylinder engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2
Six-cylinder engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5-3-6-2-4
Lubrication system
Oil pressure (all engines)
At idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 2.0 bars
Running (for example, at 4000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 bars or above (typically)
Oil pump rotor clearance - M40 engine
(body-to-outer rotor/outer rotor-to-inner rotor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.12 mm to 0.20 mm
Oil pump pressure relief valve spring length - M40 engine . . . . . . . . . . 84.1 mm
Chapter 2 Part A:
In-car engine repair procedures
Camshaft - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Compression check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head - dismantling and inspection . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine mountings - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Front oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intake manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2
Rocker arm and shaft assembly - dismantling, inspection
and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . 10
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Timing chain and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . 8
Timing chain covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearance check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Valve cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Valves - servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
2A•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

Torque wrench settingsNm
Timing chain tensioner plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Timing belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Camshaft sprocket-to-camshaft bolt
M10 and M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
M20 and M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Flange to camshaft (M30 engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Timing chain or belt covers-to-engine
M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
M10 (bolt size) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Crankshaft pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Crankshaft hub bolt or nut
M10 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
M20 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
M30 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
M40 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Cylinder head bolts*
M10 four-cylinder engine
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Stage 2 (wait 15 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 33°
Stage 3 (engine at normal operating temperature) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 25°
M20 six-cylinder engine with hex-head bolts
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Stage 2 (wait 15 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Stage 3 (engine at normal operating temperature) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 25°
M20 six-cylinder engine with Torx-head bolts
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 90°
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 90°
M30 six-cylinder engine (up to and including 1987 model year)
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Stage 2 (wait 15 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 33°
Stage 3 (engine at normal operating temperature) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 33°
M30 six-cylinder engine (from 1988 model year)
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Stage 2 (wait 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Stage 3 (engine at normal operating temperature) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 35°
M40 four-cylinder engine
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 90°
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 90°
Intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts
M8 bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
M7 bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
M6 bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head nuts
M6 nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
M7 nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Flywheel/driveplate bolts
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt (M20 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Sump-to-block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11
Oil pump bolts (except M40 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Oil pump sprocket bolts (M10 and M30 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Oil pump cover plate-to-engine front end cover (M40 engines) . . . . . . . 9
Front end cover-to-engine bolts (M20 and M40 engines)
M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer-to-block bolts
M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
* BMW recommend that the cylinder head bolts are renewed as a matter of course.
2A•2 In-car engine repair procedures

1 General information
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-
vehicle engine repair procedures. All
information concerning engine removal and
refitting and engine block and cylinder head
overhaul can be found in Chapter 2B.
The following repair procedures are based
on the assumption that the engine is still fitted
in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle and mounted on a stand,
many of the steps outlined in this Part of
Chapter 2 will not apply.
The Specifications included in this Part of
Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures
contained in this Part. Chapter 2B contains
the Specifications necessary for cylinder head
and engine block rebuilding.
The single overhead camshaft four- and
six-cylinder engines covered in this manual
are very similar in design. Where there are
differences, they will be pointed out.
The means by which the overhead
camshaft is driven varies according to engine
type; M10 and M30 engines use a timing
chain, while M20 and M40 engines have a
timing belt.
2 Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
Many major repair operations can be
accomplished without removing the engine
from the vehicle.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier, and help keep dirt out of
the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, it
may be helpful to remove the bonnet to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (see Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint. Special pads are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal
renewal, the repairs can generally be made
with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket,
crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket
are all accessible with the engine in place.
Exterior components, such as the intake
and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil
pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator, the distributor and the fuel system
components, can be removed for repair with
the engine in place.
The cylinder head can be removed without
removing the engine, so this procedure is
covered in this Part of Chapter 2. Camshaft,
rocker arm and valve component servicing ismost easily accomplished with the cylinder
head removed; these procedures are covered
in Part B of this Chapter. Note, however, that
the camshaft on the M40 engine may be
removed with the engine in the vehicle since it
is retained by bearing caps.
In extreme cases caused by a lack of
necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine in
the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston- locating
2
Note 1:The following procedure is based on
the assumption that the distributor (if
applicable) is correctly fitted. If you are trying
to locate TDC to refit the distributor correctly,
piston position must be determined by feeling
for compression at the No 1 spark plug hole,
then aligning the ignition timing marks or
inserting the timing tool in the flywheel, as
applicable.
Note 2:The No 1 cylinder is the one closest to
the radiator.
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it
travels up and down when the crankshaft
turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the
compression stroke and again on the exhaust
stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston
position on the compression stroke.
2Positioning the piston at TDC is an essential
part of many procedures, such as timing belt
or chain removal and distributor removal.
3Before beginning this procedure, be sure to
place the transmission in Neutral, and apply
the handbrake or chock the rear wheels. Also,
disable the ignition system by detaching the
coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap, and earthing it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark
plugs (see Chapter 1).
4In order to bring any piston to TDC, the
crankshaft must be turned using one of the
methods outlined below. When looking at the
front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation
is clockwise.
(a) The preferred method is to turn the
crankshaft with a socket and ratchet
attached to the bolt threaded into the
front of the crankshaft.
(b) A remote starter switch, which may save
some time, can also be used. Follow the
instructions included with the switch.
Once the piston is close to TDC, use a
socket and ratchet as described in the
previous paragraph.
(c) If an assistant is available to turn the
ignition switch to the Start position in
short bursts, you can get the piston close
to TDC without a remote starter switch.Make sure your assistant is out of the
vehicle, away from the ignition switch,
then use a socket and ratchet as
described in (a) to complete the
procedure.
5Note the position of the terminal for the
No 1 spark plug lead on the distributor cap. If
the terminal isn’t marked, follow the plug lead
from the No 1 cylinder spark plug to the cap
(No 1 cylinder is nearest the radiator).
6Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark
directly below the No 1 terminal on the
distributor body or timing cover.
7Detach the distributor cap, and set it aside
(see Chapter 1 if necessary).
8Turn the crankshaft (see paragraph 4
above) until the timing marks (located at the
front of the engine) are aligned (see
illustration). The M40 engine does not have
any timing marks at the front of the engine,
but instead has a timing hole in the flywheel
which must be aligned with a hole in the rear
flange of the cylinder block. On this engine,
turn the crankshaft until the distributor rotor is
approaching the No 1 TDC position, then
continue to turn the crankshaft until a suitable
close-fitting drill can be inserted through the
hole in the cylinder block and into the
flywheel.
9Look at the distributor rotor - it should be
pointing directly at the mark you made on the
distributor body or timing cover.
10If the rotor is 180 degrees out, the No 1
piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
11To get the piston to TDC on the
compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one
complete turn (360°) clockwise. The rotor
should now be pointing at the mark on the
distributor or timing cover. When the rotor is
pointing at the No 1 spark plug lead terminal
in the distributor cap and the ignition timing
marks are aligned, the No 1 piston is at TDC
on the compression stroke. Note:If it’s
impossible to align the ignition timing marks
when the rotor is pointing at the mark, the
timing belt or chain may have jumped the
teeth on the sprockets, or may have been
fitted incorrectly.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•3
3.8 Align the notch in the pulley with the
notch on the timing plate, then check to
see if the distributor rotor is pointing to the
No 1 cylinder (if not, the camshaft is 180
degrees out - the crankshaft will have to
be rotated 360 degrees)
2A

cover, remove the vibration damper/hub by
locking the crankshaft in position and
loosening the large centre bolt. Since the bolt
is on very tight, you’ll need to use an
extension bar and socket to break it loose. On
M30 engines, BMW recommends using a
3/4-inch drive socket and extension bar, since
the bolt is extremely tight on these engines.
To lock the crankshaft in place while the bolt
is being loosened, use BMW special tool
No. 11 2 100 (or equivalent).
9On the M10 engine, if the special tool listed
in the previous paragraph is not available, you
may try locking the crankshaft by removing
the flywheel/driveplate inspection cover and
jamming a wide-bladed screwdriver into the
ring gear teeth. On the M30 engine, since the
bolt is so extremely tight, we don’t
recommend substitute methods. Use the
correct tool. On the M10 engine, after the
centre bolt is removed, it will probably be
necessary to use a jaw-type puller to pull the
vibration damper off the crankshaft. Position
the jaws behind the inner pulley groove, and
tighten the puller centre bolt very slowly,
checking the pulley to make sure it does not
get bent or otherwise damaged by the puller.
10Unscrew the plug and remove the timing
chain tensioner spring (see illustration). The
tensioner plunger may come out with the
spring. If not, reach down into the hole where
the tensioner spring was, and remove the
plunger. To check the plunger for proper
operation, see Section 8.
Caution: The spring is under
tension, and this could cause the
plug to be ejected from its hole with
considerable force. Hold the
tensioner plug securely as it’s beingunscrewed, and release the spring tension
slowly.
11On the M30 engine, if you’re removing the
upper timing cover, unbolt the thermostat cover
and remove the thermostat (see Chapter 3).
12On the M30 engine, if you’re removing the
lower timing cover, loosen the alternator
mounting bolts, and swing the alternator to
one side. Remove the front lower mounting
bracket bolt, and loosen the other bolts. Also
unbolt the power steering pump mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
13Remove the bolts and nuts securing the
upper timing chain cover to the engine block,
and remove the cover. Draw a simple diagram
showing the location of the bolts, so they can
be returned to the same holes from which
they’re removed. Remove the upper timing
chain cover. If it sticks to the engine block, tap
it gently with a rubber mallet, or place a piece
of wood against the cover and hit the wood
with a hammer. On the M30 engine fitted with
the L-Jetronic fuel system, remove the
distributor driveshaft.
14Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
lower timing chain cover to the engine block.
Be sure to remove the three bolts from
underneath that connect the front of the sump
to the bottom of the front cover (see
illustration). Loosen the remaining sump bolts.
15Run a sharp, thin knife between the sump
gasket and lower timing chain cover, cutting
the cover free from the gasket. Be very careful
not to damage or dirty the gasket, so you can
re-use it.
16Break the lower timing chain cover-to-
block gasket seal by tapping the cover with a
rubber mallet, or with a hammer and block of
wood. Do not prise between the cover and the
engine block, as damage to the gasket sealing
surfaces will result.
17Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the covers and engine block.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may prove
helpful. After all gasket material has beenremoved, the gasket surfaces can be
degreased by wiping them with a rag
dampened with a suitable solvent.Refitting
18Renew the front oil seals (see Section 11).
It’s not wise to take a chance on an old seal,
since renewal with the covers removed is very
easy. Be sure to apply a little oil to the front oil
seal lips.
19Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates
with the lower timing chain cover. Apply extra
beads of RTV sealant to the edges where the
gasket meets the engine block. Note:If the
sump gasket is damaged, instead of fitting a
whole new gasket, you might try trimming the
front portion of the gasket off at the point
where it meets the engine block, then trim off
the front portion of a new sump gasket so it’s
exactly the same size. Cover the exposed
inside area of the sump with a rag, then clean
all traces of old gasket material off the area
where the gasket was removed. Attach the
new gasket piece to the sump with contact-
cement-type gasket adhesive, then apply
RTV-type sealant as described at the
beginning of this paragraph.
20Coat both sides of the new gasket with
RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the
lower timing chain cover to the front of the
engine. Refit the bolts, and tighten them
evenly to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Work from bolt-to-bolt in a
criss-cross pattern to be sure they’re
tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the lower
cover-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-cover bolts. If the gasket protrudes
above the cover-to-block joint, or bunches up
at the cover-to-sump joint, trim the gasket so
it fits correctly.Note 2:After applying RTV-
type sealant, reassembly must be completed
in about 10 minutes so the RTV won’t
prematurely harden.
21Refit the upper timing chain cover in the
same way as the lower cover. If the gasket
protrudes beyond the top of the cover and the
engine block, trim off the excess with a razor
blade.
22Refitting is otherwise the reverse of
removal.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•7
7.14 From underneath the vehicle, remove
the three bolts (arrowed) that connect the
cover and the sump7.10 Unscrew the plug from the timing
chain cover, and remove the tensioner
spring and plunger7.7 Place a socket and ratchet on the
centre bolt to keep the pulley stationary,
and use another socket and ratchet to
remove the smaller bolts attaching the
pulley to the vibration damper
2A
If the pulley seems to be
sticking on the crankshaft, it
may help to spray the hub
area with some penetrating
oil, and to gently tap on the hub area
with a hammer.

alignment mark on the camshaft sprocket and
rear timing cover to ensure correct refitting.
6On the M20 engine, loosen the two
tensioner roller retaining bolts a little, and
push the tensioner towards the water pump
(see illustration). With the timing belt tension
relieved, re-tighten the retaining bolt.
7On the M40 engine, loosen the tensioner
retaining nut, and use an Allen key to rotate
the tensioner clockwise. This will relieve the
tension of the timing belt. Tighten the
retaining nut to hold the tensioner in its free
position.
8If the same belt is to be refitted, mark it with
an arrow indicating direction of rotation.
Caution: It is not advisable to
refit a timing belt which has been
removed unless it is virtually
new. On the M40 engine, BMW
recommend that the timing belt is
renewed every time the tensioner roller is
released.
9Remove the timing belt by slipping it off the
roller(s) and the other sprockets (see
illustrations).
10If it’s necessary to remove the camshaft
or the intermediate shaft sprocket, remove the
sprocket bolt while holding the sprocket to
prevent it from moving. To hold the sprocket,
wrap it with a piece of an old timing belt
(toothed side engaging the sprocket teeth) ora piece of leather, then hold the sprocket
using a strap spanner. If a strap spanner is not
available, clamp the ends of the piece of belt
or leather tightly together with a pair of grips.
Before loosening the bolt, make sure you have
the necessary tool for positioning the
camshaft as described in the following
paragraph (see illustration).
Caution: Do not use the timing
belt you’re planning to refit to
hold the sprocket. Also, be sure
to hold the camshaft sprocket
very steady, because if it moves more than
a few degrees, the valves could hit the
pistons.
Note: On the M40 engine, the sprocket is not
directly located on the camshaft with a key, as
the groove in the end of the camshaft allows
the sprocket to move several degrees in either
direction. The retaining bolt locks the sprocket
onto a taper after positioning the camshaft
with a special tool.
11The BMW tool for positioning the camshaft
on the M40 engine consists of a metal plate
which locates over the square lug near the No
1 cylinder lobes on the camshaft - the valve
cover must be removed first (see
illustrations). If the BMW tool cannot be
obtained, a home-made tool should be
fabricated out of metal plate. The tool must be
made to hold the square lug on the camshaft
at right-angles to the upper face of the cylinder
head (ie the contact face of the valve cover).
12If it’s necessary to remove the crankshaft
sprocket, remove the crankshaft hub centre
bolt while holding the crankshaft steady.
Note:The removal of the crankshaft hub
mounting bolt requires a heavy-duty holding
device because of the high torque used to
tighten the bolt. BMW has a special tool,
numbered 112150 (M20 engines) or 112170
(M40 engines), for this purpose. If this tool
cannot be bought or borrowed, check with a
tool dealer or motor factors for a tool capable
of doing the job. Note that the tool number
112170 bolts on the rear of the cylinder head
and engages with the flywheel ring gear, so it
will only be possible to use this tool if the
gearbox has been removed, or if the engine is
out of the vehicle (see illustrations). On
2A•10 In-car engine repair procedures
10.12a Home-made tool for holding the
crankshaft stationary while the crankshaft
pulley bolt is being loosened (engine
removed for clarity)
10.11b The BMW camshaft-holding tool in
position on the M40 engine10.11a The BMW tool for holding the
camshaft in the TDC position on
M40 engines
10.10 Removing the camshaft sprocket on
the M40 engine
10.9b Removing the timing belt from the
camshaft sprocket on the M40 engine
10.9a When removing the timing belt on
models with a two-piece crankshaft hub,
it’s a tight fit to remove it around the hub,
but it’s a lot easier than removing the
crankshaft hub assembly, which is secured
by a very tight bolt10.6 Loosen the idler pulley bolts
(arrowed) to relieve the tension on the
timing belt so it can be removed

15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Fit a new gasket to the lower sump
section on models with the M40 engine.
16On completion refill the engine with oil
(Chapter 1). Run the engine and check that
there are no oil leaks from the sump gasket or
other disturbed components.
14 Oil pump- removal,
inspection and refitting
5
Removal
1Remove the sump (see Section 13).
M10, M20 and M30 engines
2On M10 and M30 engines, remove the
three bolts that attach the gear to the front of
the pump (see illustration). Note: Some
models have a single centre nut attaching the
gear to the oil pump.
3Unbolt the oil pump from the engine block
(see illustrations)and remove it.
4On the M20 engine, the intermediate shaft
drives the oil pump driveshaft, which drives
the oil pump. To remove the driveshaft,
remove the hold-down plate from the block,
and lift out the plug. Check the condition of
the O-ring, and renew it if necessary. Lift the
driveshaft out and check both gears for wear,
renewing them if worn or damaged (see
illustration).
5If the gear on the intermediate shaft is worn,
or the intermediate shaft bearing is worn or
damaged, the intermediate shaft must be
removed. Remove the engine (see Chap-
ter 2B), then remove the timing belt,
crankshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets
(see Section 10) and the engine front cover
(see Section 11). The intermediate shaft can
be slid out the front of the engine.
M40 engines
6Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 10.
7Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 12.
8Unscrew the nut and remove the timing belt
tensioner from the front end cover (see
illustration). If necessary, unscrew the stud
from the cylinder block.9Unscrew and remove the crankshaft hub
bolt while holding the crankshaft stationary.
The bolt is tightened to a very high torque,
and it will be necessary to prevent the
crankshaft turning. Ideally, a metal bar should
be bolted to the sprocket, or the starter motor
may be removed and the flywheel held using a
wide-bladed screwdriver. Beware of possible
damage to surrounding components if it is
necessary to improvise some method of
immobilising the crankshaft.
10Remove the sprocket and spacer, noting
that the shoulder on the spacer faces inwards.
11Unscrew the bolts and remove the
stabilising and guide rollers from the front end
cover (see illustrations).12Using a small screwdriver or similar
instrument, remove the key from the groove in
the nose of the crankshaft (see illustration).
13Pull the spacer ring off the crankshaft (see
illustration).
14Unscrew the remaining bolts, and remove
the front end cover and oil pump from the
cylinder block. Note the locations of the front
cover bolts, as they are of different sizes. With
the cover removed, extract the rubber O-ring
from the groove in the nose of the crankshaft
(see illustrations).
15Note the fitted location of the oil seal, then
prise it out of the housing.
2A•16 In-car engine repair procedures
14.11b Removing the guide roller from the
front end cover (M40 engine)14.11a Removing the stabilising roller
from the front end cover (M40 engine)14.8 Removing the timing belt tensioner
(M40 engine)
14.3b On M10 and M30 engines, the oil
pump is bolted to the front and centre of
the engine block14.4 If necessary on the M20 engine,
remove the plug and oil pump driveshaft
from the engine. Inspect the driveshaft
gear, as well as this intermediate shaft
gear in the engine block (arrowed)
14.3a On M20 engines, the oil pump is
bolted across the engine block from side
to side, towards the front of the engine14.2 On M10 and M30 engines, remove the
three bolts that hold the driven gear to the
oil pump, and remove the gear