Front turn signal BMW 3 SERIES 1987 E30 Workshop Manual
Page 91 of 228
information on removing and refitting the
intake manifold, refer to Chapter 2A.
The throttle valve inside the throttle body or
carburettor is actuated by the accelerator
cable. When you depress the accelerator
pedal, the throttle plate opens and airflow
through the intake system increases.
On fuel injection systems, a flap inside the
airflow meter opens wider as the airflow
increases. A throttle position switch attached
to the pivot shaft of the flap detects the angle
of the flap (how much it’s open) and converts
this to a voltage signal, which it sends to the
computer.
Fuel system
On carburettor models, the fuel pump
supplies fuel under pressure to the
carburettor. A needle valve in the float
chamber maintains the fuel at a constant
level. A fuel return system channels excess
fuel back to the fuel tank.
On fuel injection models, an electric fuel
pump supplies fuel under constant pressure
to the fuel rail, which distributes fuel to the
injectors. The electric fuel pump is located
inside the fuel tank on later models, or beside
the fuel tank on early models. Early models
also have a transfer pump located in the fuel
tank. The transfer pump acts as an aid to the
larger main pump for delivering the necessary
pressure. A fuel pressure regulator controls
the pressure in the fuel system. The fuel
system also has a fuel pulsation damper
located near the fuel filter. The damper
reduces the pressure pulsations caused by
fuel pump operation, and the opening and
closing of the injectors. The amount of fuel
injected into the intake ports is precisely
controlled by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU
or computer). Some later 5-Series models
have a fuel cooler in the return line.
Electronic control system (fuel
injection system)
Besides altering the injector opening
duration as described above, the electronic
control unit performs a number of other tasks
related to fuel and emissions control. It
accomplishes these tasks by using data
relayed to it by a wide array of information
sensors located throughout the enginecompartment, comparing this information to
its stored map, and altering engine operation
by controlling a number of different actuators.
Since special equipment is required, most
fault diagnosis and repair of the electronic
control system is beyond the scope of the
home mechanic. Additional information and
testing procedures for the emissions system
components (oxygen sensor, coolant
temperature sensor, EVAP system, etc.) is
contained in Chapter 6.
2 Fuel injection system-
depressurising
1
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs near the work area. Also, don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance with a pilot light is present.
1Remove the fuel pump fuse from the main
fuse panel (see illustrations). Note:Consult
your owner’s handbook for the exact location
of the fuel pump fuse, if the information is not
stamped onto the fusebox cover.
2Start the engine, and wait for it to stall.
Switch off the ignition.
3Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve the fuel
tank pressure.
4The fuel system is now depressurised.
Note:Place a rag around fuel lines before
disconnecting, to prevent any residual fuel
from spilling onto the engine(see
illustration).
5Disconnect the battery negative cable
before working on any part of the system.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
3 Fuel pump/fuel pressure-
check
3
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Also, don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance with a pilot light is present.
Carburettor engines
1To test the fuel pump, it will be necessary to
connect a suitable pressure gauge between
the fuel pump outlet, and the carburettor
supply pipe. For this particular test, the fuel
return valve, which is normally connected in
the fuel line from the fuel pump to the
carburettor, mustbe bypassed.
2With the engine running at idle speed, the
pump pressure should be between 0.1 and
0.3 bars.
3Should a pressure gauge not be available, a
simpler (but less accurate) method of testing
the fuel pump is as follows.
4Disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel
pump.
5Disconnect the LT lead from the coil, to
prevent the engine firing, then turn the engine
over on the starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel
should be ejected from the outlet hose.
Fuel injection engines
Note 1:The electric fuel pump is located
inside the fuel tank on later models, or beside
the fuel tank on early models. Early models are
also equipped with a transfer pump located in
the fuel tank. The transfer pump feeds the
main pump, but can’t generate the high
pressure required by the system.
Note 2:The fuel pump relay on Motronic
systems is activated by an earth signal from
the Motronic control unit (ECU). The fuel
pump operates for a few seconds when the
ignition is first switched on, and then
continues to operate only when the engine is
actually running.
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3
2.4 Be sure to place a rag under and
around any fuel line when disconnecting2.1b Removing the fuel pump fuse on
5-Series models2.1a Removing the fuel pump fuse on
3-Series models
4
Page 105 of 228
gauge to the pressure regulator vacuum hose,
and check for vacuum (engine idling).
11If there is vacuum present, renew the fuel
pressure regulator.
12If there isn’t any reading on the gauge,
check the hose and its port for a leak or a
restriction.
Renewal
13Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2).
14Detach the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
15Detach the vacuum hose and fuel return
hose from the pressure regulator, then
unscrew the mounting bolts (see illustration).
16Remove the pressure regulator.
17Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to use a new O-ring. Coat the O-ring with a
light film of engine oil prior to refitting.
18Check for fuel leaks after refitting the
pressure regulator.
19 Cold start injector and
thermotime switch- check
and renewal
2
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you performany kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
Check
Cold start injector
1The engine coolant should be below 30ºC
for this check. Preferably, the engine should
have been switched off for several hours.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the
cold start injector (see illustration)and move
it aside, away from the work area - there will
be fuel vapour present. Remove the two
screws holding the injector to the air intake
plenum, and take the injector out. The fuel line
must be left connected. Wipe the injector
nozzle. Disable the ignition system by
detaching the coil wire from the centre
terminal of the distributor cap, and earthing it
on the engine block with a jumper wire. Run
the fuel pump for 1 minute by bridging the
appropriate relay terminals (see Section 3).
There must be no fuel dripping from the
nozzle. If there is, the injector is faulty and
must be renewed. Switch off the ignition and
remake the original fuel pump relay
connections.
2Now direct the nozzle of the injector into a
can or jar. Reconnect the electrical connector
to the injector. Have an assistant switch on
the ignition and operate the starter. The
injector should squirt a conical-shaped sprayinto the jar (see illustration). If the spray
pattern is good, the injector is working
properly. If the spray pattern is irregular, the
injector is fouled or damaged, and should be
cleaned or renewed.
3If the cold start injector does not spray any
fuel, check for a voltage signal at the electrical
connector for the cold start injector when the
starter motor is operated (see illustration). If
there is no voltage, check the thermotime
switch.
Thermotime switch
4The thermotime switch detects the
temperature of the engine, and controls the
action of the cold start injector. It is usually
located up front, near the coolant temperature
sensor. The engine coolant should be below
30ºC for this check. Preferably, the engine
should have been switched off for several
hours. Disable the ignition system by detaching
the coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap, and earthing it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Pull back the rubber
boot from the thermotime switch (see
illustration)and probe the black/yellow wire
connector terminal with a voltmeter.
5Have an assistant switch on the ignition and
operate the starter. The voltmeter should
register a voltage signal the moment the
starter engages. This signal should last
approximately 6 to 10 seconds, depending on
the temperature of the engine.
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•17
19.2 Watch for a steady, conical-shaped
spray of fuel when the starter motor is
operated19.1 Cold start injector electrical
connector (arrowed) on the M10 engine.
Most cold start injectors are mounted in
the intake manifold18.15 Remove the two bolts (arrowed) and
remove the fuel pressure regulator from
the fuel rail
19.4 Check for a voltage signal on the
black/yellow wire of the thermotime switch
when the ignition is on19.3 Check for a voltage signal (about
12 volts) at the cold start injector connector
when the starter motor is operated
4
Page 113 of 228
5 Ignition system- general
information and precautions
The ignition system includes the ignition
switch, the battery, the distributor, the primary
(low-voltage/low-tension or LT) and
secondary (high-voltage/high-tension or HT)
wiring circuits, the spark plugs and the spark
plug leads. Models fitted with a carburettor or
L-Jetronic fuel injection are equipped with a
Transistorised Coil Ignition (TCI) system.
Models fitted with the Motronic fuel injection
system have the ignition system incorporated
within the Motronic system (Digital Motor
Electronics or DME).
Transistorised Coil Ignition (TCI)
system
This system is has four major components;
the impulse generator, the ignition control
unit, the coil, and the spark plugs. The
impulse generator provides a timing signal for
the ignition system. Equivalent to cam-
actuated breaker points in a standard
distributor, the impulse generator creates an
A/C voltage signal every time the trigger
wheel tabs pass the impulse generator tabs.
When the ignition control unit (capacitive
discharge unit) receives the voltage signal, it
triggers a spark discharge from the coil by
interrupting the primary coil circuit. The
ignition dwell (coil charging time) is adjusted
by the ignition control unit for the most
intense spark. Note: The air gap (distance
between the impulse generator and trigger
wheel tabs) can be adjusted (see Section 11).
Ignition timing is mechanically adjusted
(see Section 7). A centrifugal advance unit
that consists of spring-loaded rotating
weights advances ignition timing as engine
speed increases. The vacuum advance
adjusts ignition timing to compensate for
changes in engine load.
Motronic ignition system
This system, also known as Digital Motor
Electronics (DME), incorporates all ignition
and fuel injection functions into one central
control unit or ECU (computer). The ignition
timing is based on inputs the ECU receives for
engine load, engine speed, coolant
temperature and intake air temperature. The
only function the distributor performs is the
distribution of the high voltage signal to the
individual spark plugs. The distributor is
attached directly to the cylinder head. There is
no mechanical spark advance system used on
these systems.
Ignition timing is electronically-controlled,
and is not adjustable on Motronic systems.
During starting, a crankshaft position sensor
(reference sensor) relays the crankshaft
position to the ECU, and an initial baseline
ignition point is determined. Once the engineis running, the ignition timing is continually
changing, based on the various input signals
to the ECU. Engine speed is signalled by a
speed sensor. Early Motronic systems have
the position reference sensor and the speed
sensor mounted on the bellhousing over the
flywheel on the left-hand side. Later Motronic
systems have a single sensor (pulse sensor)
mounted over the crankshaft pulley. This
sensor functions as a speed sensor as well as
a position reference sensor. Refer to Sec-
tion 12 for checking and renewing the ignition
sensors. Note: Some models are equipped
with a TDC sensor mounted on the front of the
engine. This sensor is strictly for the BMW
service test unit, and it is not part of the
Motronic ignition system.
Precautions
Certain precautions must be observed
when working on a transistorised ignition
system.
a) Do not disconnect the battery cables
when the engine is running
b) Make sure the ignition control unit (TCI
ignition system) is always well earthed
(see Section 10).
c) Keep water away from the distributor and
HT leads.
d) If a tachometer is to be connected to the
engine, always connect the tachometer
positive (+) lead to the ignition coil
negative terminal (-) and never to the
distributor.
e) Do not allow the coil terminals to be
earthed, as the impulse generator or coil
could be damaged.
f) Do not leave the ignition switch on for
more than ten minutes with the engine
off, or if the engine will not start.
6 Ignition system- check
2
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the ignition
system, extreme care should be
taken whenever an operation is
performed involving ignition components.
This not only includes the impulse
generator (electronic ignition), coil,
distributor and spark plug HT leads, but
related components such as spark plug
connectors, tachometer and other test
equipment.
1If the engine turns over but will not start,
disconnect the spark plug HT lead from any
spark plug, and attach it to a calibrated spark
tester (available at most car accessory
shops).
Note:There are two different types of spark
testers. Be sure to specify electronic
(breakerless) ignition. Connect the clip on thetester to an earth point such as a metal
bracket (see illustration).
2If you are unable to obtain a calibrated
spark tester, remove the spark plug HT lead
from one of the spark plugs. Using an
insulated tool, hold the lead about a quarter-
inch from the engine block - make sure the
gap is not more than a quarter-inch, or
damage may be caused to the electronic
components.
3Crank the engine, and observe the tip of the
tester or spark plug HT lead to see if a spark
occurs. If bright-blue, well-defined sparks
occur, sufficient voltage is reaching the plugs
to fire the engine. However, the plugs
themselves may be fouled, so remove and
check them as described in Chapter 1.
4If there’s no spark, check another HT lead
in the same manner. A few sparks followed by
no spark is the same condition as no spark at
all.
5If no spark occurs, remove the distributor
cap, and check the cap and rotor as
described in Chapter 1. If moisture is present,
use a water-dispersant aerosol (or something
similar) to dry out the cap and rotor, then refit
the cap and repeat the spark test.
6If there’s still no spark, disconnect the coil
HT lead from the distributor cap, and
test this lead as described for the spark plug
leads.
7If no spark occurs, check the primary wire
connections at the coil to make sure they’re
clean and tight. Make any necessary repairs,
then repeat the check.
8If sparks do occur from the coil HT lead, the
distributor cap, rotor, plug HT lead(s) or spark
plug(s) may be defective. If there’s still no
spark, the coil-to-cap HT lead may be
defective. If a substitute lead doesn’t make
any difference, check the ignition coil (see
Section 9). Note:Refer to Sections 10 and 11
for more test procedures on the distributors
fitted with the TCI ignition system.
Engine electrical systems 5•3
6.1 To use a spark tester, simply
disconnect a spark plug HT lead, clip the
tester to a convenient earth (like a valve
cover bolt or nut) and operate the starter –
if there is enough power to fire the plug,
sparks will be visible between the
electrode tip and the tester body
5
Page 116 of 228
connect the ohmmeter to coil terminal 1 (-)
and the centre tower. On Motronic systems,
connect the ohmmeter to coil terminal 15 (+)
and the centre tower. Compare the measured
resistance with the values given in the Specifi-
cations in this Chapter.
6If the measured resistances are not close to
those specified, the coil is defective and
should be renewed. Note that the measured
resistance will vary according to the
temperature of the coil, so don’t rush to
condemn the coil if the resistance is only a
little way out.
7It is essential for proper ignition system
operation that all coil terminals and wire leads
be kept clean and dry.
8Refit the coil in its mounting, and reconnect
the wiring. Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Impulse generator and
ignition control unit- check
and renewal (TCI system)
3
1The impulse generator (located in the
distributor) and ignition control unit need to be
tested in the event there is no spark at the
spark plugs. Make sure the plug leads,
ignition coil and spark plugs are working
properly (see Sections 6 and 9). There are two
types of control units; Bosch or
Siemens/Telefunken. The two types (see
illustration)can be distinguished by their
electrical connectors. The Bosch type uses a
single, large rectangular connector at the
bottom of the unit, while the
Siemens/Telefunken control unit uses two
round electrical connectors at the front of the
unit.
Check
Voltage supply and earth to ignition
control unit
2With the ignition off, remove the harness
connectors from the ignition control unit (see
illustrations). Connect a voltmeter between
connector terminals 2 and 4 on Bosch
systems, or between terminals 6 and 3 on
Siemens/Telefunken systems.
3Turn the ignition on. There should be
battery voltage on the designated terminals. If
there is no voltage, check the wiring harness
for an open-circuit (see Chapter 12).
4Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between connector terminal 2 (Bosch) or 6
(Siemens/Telefunken) and the earth to the
vehicle body. Continuity should exist.
5Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between connector terminal 4 (Bosch) or 3
(Siemens/Telefunken) and terminal 15 of the
ignition coil. Continuity should exist.
6If the readings are incorrect, repair the
wiring harness.
Impulse generator signal
7If the ignition control unit is receiving
battery voltage, check the A/C signal voltage
coming from the impulse generator to the
control unit.
5•6 Engine electrical systems
10.2b Check for voltage at terminals 6 and
3 on the control unit electrical connector
(Siemens/Telefunken system shown)10.2a Check for voltage at terminals 2 and
4 on the control unit electrical connector
(Bosch system shown)
1 Coil HT lead
2 Ignition coil
3 Spark plug HT lead
4 Spark plug
5 Ignition control unit (Bosch)
6 Ignition control unit
(Siemens/Telefunken)
7 Wiring harness8 Distributor housing with
centrifugal advance
counterweights
9 Vacuum diaphragm
10 Circlip
11 Impulse generator
12 Trigger wheel
13 Circlip
14 Dust shield15 Ignition rotor
16 Distributor
17 Roll pin
18 Trigger wheel and impulse
generator tabs
19 Cap retaining clip
20 Impulse generator
connector
10.1 Schematic of the ignition components used on engines with the TCI system
Page 170 of 228
Finding a short-circuit
One method of finding a short-circuit is to
remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter in its place. There should be no
voltage present in the circuit. Move the
electrical connectors from side-to-side while
watching the test light. If the bulb goes on,
there is a short to earth somewhere in that
area, probably where the insulation has been
rubbed through. The same test can be
performed on each component in a circuit,
even a switch.
Earth check
Perform a earth check to see whether a
component is properly earthed (passing
current back via the vehicle body). Disconnect
the battery, and connect one lead of a self-
powered test light (often known as a
continuity tester) to a known good earth.
Connect the other lead to the wire or earth
connection being tested. The bulb should
light, indicating a good earth connection. If
not, dismantle the connection, and clean all
relevant parts thoroughly. When re-making
the connection, use serrated (shakeproof)
washers if possible, and tighten all bolts, etc,
securely.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Continuity check
A continuity check determines if there are
any breaks in a circuit - if it is conducting
electricity properly. With the circuit off (no
power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity
tester can be used to check the circuit.
Connect the test leads to both ends of the
circuit, and if the test light comes on, the
circuit is passing current properly. If the light
doesn’t come on, there is a break somewhere
in the circuit. The same procedure can be
used to test a switch, by connecting the
continuity tester to the power-in and power-
out sides of the switch. With the switch turned
on, the test light should come on.
Finding an open-circuit
When diagnosing for possible open-
circuits, it is often difficult to locate them by
sight, because oxidation or terminal
misalignment are hidden by the connectors.
Intermittent problems are often caused by
oxidised or loose connections. Merely
wiggling an electrical connector may correct
the open-circuit condition, albeit temporarily.
Dismantle the connector, and spray with a
water-dispersant aerosol. On simpler
connectors, it may be possible to carefullybend the connector pins inside, to improve
the metal-to-metal contact - don’t damage
the connector in the process, however.
3 Fuses- general information
1
The electrical circuits of the vehicle are
protected by a combination of fuses and
circuit breakers. The fusebox is located in the
left corner of the engine compartment (see
illustration). On some later models, it is
located under the rear seat cushion.
Each of the fuses is designed to protect a
specific circuit, and on some models, the
various circuits are identified on the fuse
panel itself.
Miniaturised fuses are employed in the
fuseboxes. These compact fuses, with blade
terminal design, allow fingertip removal and
renewal. If an electrical component fails,
always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is
easily identified through the clear plastic
body. Visually inspect the element for
evidence of damage. If a continuity check is
called for, the blade terminal tips are exposed
in the fuse body.
Be sure to renew blown fuses with the
correct type. Fuses of different ratings are
physically interchangeable, but only fuses of
the proper rating should be used. Replacing a
fuse with one of a higher or lower value than
specified is not recommended. Each electrical
circuit needs a specific amount of protection.
The amperage value of each fuse is moulded
into the fuse body.
If the new fuse immediately fails, don’t
renew it again until the cause of the problem
is isolated and corrected. In most cases, the
cause will be a short-circuit in the wiring
caused by a broken or deteriorated wire.
4 Relays- general information
1
Several electrical accessories in the vehicle
use relays to transmit the electrical signal to
the component. If the relay is defective, thatcomponent will not operate properly. Relays
are electrically-operated switches, which are
often used in circuits drawing high levels of
current, or where more complex switching
arrangements are required.
The various relays are grouped together for
convenience in several locations under the
dash and in the engine compartment (see
accompanying illustration and illus-
tration 3.1).
If a faulty relay is suspected, it can be
removed and tested by a dealer or qualified
automotive electrician. No overhaul is
possible. Like fuses, defective relays must be
replaced with the correct type; some relays
look identical, but perform very different
functions.
5 Direction indicator/hazard
warning flasher unit- check
and renewal
2
Warning: Some later models are
equipped with an airbag or
Supplemental Restraint System
(SRS). To avoid possible damage
to this system, the manufacturer
recommends that, on airbag-equipped
models, the following procedure should be
left to a dealer service department, or
other specialist, because of the special
tools and techniques required. There is a
risk of injury if the airbag is accidentally
triggered.
1The direction indicator/hazard flasher unit is
a small canister- or box-shaped unit located
in the wiring harness on or near the steering
column. Access is gained by removing the
steering column shrouds (see illustration).
2When the flasher unit is functioning
properly, a regular clicking noise can be heard
from it when the indicators or hazard flashers
are switched on. If the direction indicators fail
on one side or the other, and the flasher unit
does not make its characteristic clicking
sound, a faulty direction indicator bulb is
indicated.
3If both direction indicators fail to blink, the
problem may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty
flasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or open
connection. If a quick check of the fusebox
12•2 Body electrical systems
4.2 Engine compartment relays3.1 The fusebox is located in the engine
compartment under a cover - the box also
includes several relays
Page 176 of 228
12Refitting is a reversal of removal. When
fitting the motor, if necessary plug in the
connector and run the motor briefly until it is
in the “neutral” (wiper parked) position.
17 Heated rear window-
check and repair
2
1The heated rear window consists of a
number of horizontal elements on the glass
surface.
2Small breaks in the element can be repaired
without removing the rear window.
Check
3Switch on the ignition and the heated rear
window.
4Place the positive lead of a voltmeter to the
heater element nearest to the incoming power
source.
5Wrap a piece of aluminium foil around the
negative lead of the voltmeter on the positive
side of the suspected broken element, and
slide it slowly towards the negative side.
Watch the voltmeter needle - when it moves
from zero, you have located the break.
Repair
6Repair the break in the line using a repair kit
recommended specifically for this purpose,
such as BMW repair kit No. 81 22 9 (or
equivalent). Included in this kit is plastic
conductive epoxy. The following paragraphs
give general instructions for this type of repair;
follow the instructions supplied with the repair
kit if they are different.
7Prior to repairing a break, switch off the
circuit and allow it to cool down for a few
minutes.
8Lightly buff the element area with fine steel
wool, then clean it thoroughly.
9Use masking tape to mask off the area of
repair, leaving a slit to which the epoxy can be
applied.
10Mix the epoxy thoroughly, according to
the instructions on the package.
11Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the
masking tape, overlapping the undamaged
area about 20 mm on each end.12Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours
before removing the tape and using the
heated rear window.
18 Supplemental Restraint
System (SRS)- general
information
Later models are equipped with a
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS),
incorporating an airbag. This system is
designed to protect the driver from serious
injury in the event of a head-on or frontal
collision. It consists of an airbag module in the
centre of the steering wheel, two crash
sensors mounted on the front inner wing
panels, and a crash safety switch located
inside the passenger compartment.
The airbag module contains a housing
incorporating the airbag and the inflator units.
The inflator assembly is mounted on the back
of the housing over a hole through which gas
is expelled, inflating the bag almost instanta-
neously when an electrical signal is sent from
the system. This signal is carried by a wire
which is specially wound with several turns,
so the signal will be transmitted regardless of
the steering wheel position.
The SRS system has three sensors: two at
the front, mounted on the inner wing panels
(see illustration), and a safety switch located
inside the passenger compartment. The crash
sensors are basically pressure-sensitive
switches, which complete an electrical circuit
during an impact of sufficient force. The
electrical signal from the crash sensors is sent
to a third sensor, which then completes the
circuit and inflates the airbag.
The module containing the safety switch
monitors the system operation. It checks the
system every time the vehicle is started,
causing the AIRBAG warning light to come on,
then go out if the system is operating
correctly. If there is a fault in the system, the
light will stay on. If the AIRBAG warning light
does stay on, or if it comes on while driving,
take the vehicle to your dealer immediately.
19 Cruise control system-
description and check
1
The cruise control system maintains vehicle
speed using a vacuum-actuated servo motor
located in the engine compartment, which is
connected to the throttle linkage by a cable.
The system consists of the servo motor,
clutch switch, brake switch, control switches,
a relay, and associated vacuum hoses.
Because of the complexity of the cruise
control system, repair should be left to a
dealer service department. However, it is
possible for the home mechanic to make
simple checks of the wiring and vacuum
connections for minor faults which can be
easily repaired. These include:
a) Inspect the cruise control actuating switches
for broken wires and loose connections.
b) Check the cruise control fuse.
c) The cruise control system is operated by
vacuum, so it’s critical that all vacuum
switches, hoses and connections are
secure. Check the hoses in the engine
compartment for loose connections,
cracks, or obvious vacuum leaks.
20 Central locking system-
description and check
2
The central door locking system operates
the door lock actuators mounted in each
door. The system consists of the switches,
actuators and associated wiring. Diagnosis is
limited to simple checks of the wiring
connections and actuators for minor faults
which can be easily repaired. These include:
a) Check the system fuse and/or circuit
breaker (where applicable).
b) Check the switch wires for damage and
loose connections. Check the switches
for continuity.
c) Remove the door trim panel(s), and check
the actuator wiring connections to see if
they’re loose or damaged. Inspect the
actuator rods to make sure they aren’t
12•8 Body electrical systems
18.3 The SRS system crash sensors
(arrowed) are located in the engine
compartment - check the wiring regularly
for damage16.11b Tailgate wiper motor (5-Series)16.11c Wiper blade and pivot mechanism
on the rear window (5-Series)