engine BUICK LACROSSE 2007 Manual PDF

Page 307 of 512

Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through
deep puddles or standing water, water can
come in through your engine’s air intake and
badly damage your engine. Never drive through
water that is slightly lower than the underbody
of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep
puddles or standing water, drive through them
very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. If you try to drive through owing
water, as you might at a low water
crossing, your vehicle can be carried
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
away. As little as six inches of owing
water can carry away a smaller vehicle.
If this happens, you and other vehicle
occupants could drown. Do not ignore
police warning signs, and otherwise be
very cautious about trying to drive
through owing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, allow some extra
following distance. And be especially careful
when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself
more clear room ahead, and be prepared to
have your view restricted by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. See
Tires on page 402.
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Page 310 of 512

Once you are moving on the freeway, make
certain you allow a reasonable following distance.
Expect to move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the
proper lane well in advance. If you miss your
exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite
sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce
your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any
distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think
you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If
you must start when you are not fresh — such
as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too
many miles that rst part of the journey. Wear
comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily
drive in.Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,
you will nd experienced and able service experts
in GM dealerships all across North America. They
will be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Is the reservoir
full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:Have you
checked all levels?
Lamps:Are they all working? Are the lenses
clean?
Tires:They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough
for long-distance driving? Are the tires
all inated to the recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts:What is the weather
outlook along your route? Should you
delay your trip a short time to avoid a major
storm system?
Maps:Do you have up-to-date maps?
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Page 311 of 512

Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as highway
hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the
wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of
awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road
with the same scenery, along with the hum of the
tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the
rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make
you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does,
your vehicle can leave the road in less than a
second, and you could crash and be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis? First,
be aware that it can happen.Then here are some tips:Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with
a comfortably cool interior.
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead
and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors
and your instruments frequently.
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,
service, or parking area and take a nap, get
some exercise, or both. For safety, treat
drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
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Page 312 of 512

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different
from driving in at or rolling terrain.If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that
can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check
all uid levels and also the brakes, tires,
cooling system, and transaxle. These parts
can work hard on mountain roads.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes
could get so hot that they would not work
well. You would then have poor braking or
even none going down a hill. You could
crash. Shift down to let your engine assist
your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
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Page 313 of 512

{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with
the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes
will have to do all the work of slowing
down. They could get so hot that they
would not work well. You would then have
poor braking or even none going down a
hill. You could crash. Always have your
engine running and your vehicle in gear
when you go downhill.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when
you go down a steep or long hill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift
down to a lower gear. The lower gears help
cool your engine and transaxle, and you can
climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide
or cut across the center of the road. Drive at
speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled
car or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long
grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling
rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these
and take appropriate action.
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Page 317 of 512

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO
(carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO
could overcome you and kill you. You
cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away
snow from around the base of your
vehicle, especially any that is blocking
your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a
little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the
heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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Page 318 of 512

You will need a well-charged battery to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with
your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start
the engine again and repeat this only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as
little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as
you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of
the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you
will need to spin the wheels, but you do not
want to spin your wheels too fast. The method
known as rocking can help you get out when you
are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or
others could be injured. And, the
transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment re or other damage. When
you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you
spin the wheels too fast while shifting
the transaxle back and forth, you can destroy
the transaxle. SeeRocking Your Vehicle to
Get It Out on page 319.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 424.
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Page 328 of 512

Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability, and fuel
economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety
rules. Many of these are important for your safety
and that of your passengers. So please read
this section carefully before pulling a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transaxle, wheel assembly, and tires are forced to
work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate at
relatively higher speeds and under greater loads,
generating extra heat. What is more, the trailer
adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing
the pulling requirements.If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including
speed limit restrictions, having to do with
trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not
only where you live but also where you will
be driving. A good source for this information
can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. Ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst
1,000 miles (1 600 km) the vehicle is driven.
The engine, axle or other parts could be
damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that
the vehicle tows a trailer, do not drive over
50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full
throttle. This helps the engine and other parts
of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a
trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum
posted speed for trailers, or no more than
55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the
vehicle’s parts.
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Page 331 of 512

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found
on the Tire-Loading Information label. SeeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 319. Be sure not to go
over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR,
including the weight of the trailer tongue. If a
weight distribution hitch is used, make sure not to
go over the rear axle limit before applying the
weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why the right hitch
is needed. Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only
a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to
the bumper.
If holes need to be made in the body of the
vehicle to install a trailer hitch, then be sure
to seal the holes later when the hitch is
removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust
can get into the vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust
on page 122. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
Chains should always be attached between the
vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains
under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue
will not drop to the road if it becomes separated
from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains
may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by
the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains
and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack so the rig can be turned.
And, never allow safety chains to drag on the
ground.
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Page 334 of 512

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
starting down a long hill or steep downgrade. If the
vehicle is not shifted down, the brakes might
have to be used so much that they would get hot
and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the
vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to
reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle
overheating.
If towing a trailer, you may want to drive in
THIRD (3) instead of DRIVE (D). Shift to a lower
gear as needed.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if the rig ever has to be parked on a hill, here
is how to do it:
1. Apply the regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer’s wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply the
parking brake, and shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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