light BUICK LUCERNE 2008 Owners Manual

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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your trunk.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red
cloth, and a couple of reective warning triangles. And,
if you will be driving under severe conditions, include
a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of
burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you
properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-60.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear
the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction
or stability system. SeeTraction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-5andStabiliTrak
®System on
page 4-6. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels
as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear,
wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and
press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the
transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in
the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a
rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does
not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might
need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be
towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-25.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all
occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much
weight it may properly carry; the Tire and Loading
Information label and the Certication label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it
can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.
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Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust
on page 2-32. Dirt and water can also enter
the vehicle.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the
ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so
you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them
properly.
Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap
into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake
systems will not work well, or at all.
Trailer Wiring Harness
All of the electrical circuits required for your trailer
lighting system can be accessed at the driver’s side rear
lamp connector. This connector is located under the
carpet on the rear corner of the trunk compartment.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
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When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It
is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Your vehicle has bulb warning lights. When you plug a
trailer lighting system into your vehicle’s lighting
system, its bulb warning lights may not let you know if
one of your lamps goes out. So, when you have a trailer
lighting system plugged in, be sure to check your
vehicle and trailer lamps from time to time to be sure
they are all working. Once you disconnect the trailer
lamps, the bulb warning lights again can tell you if one
of your vehicle lamps is out.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down to THIRD (3) and
reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to
reduce the possibility of engine and transmission
overheating.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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Gasoline Octane
If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine (VIN Code 2),
use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane
rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87,
you might notice an audible knocking noise when you
drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this
occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as
soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the
engine needs service.
If your vehicle has the 4.6L V8 engine (VIN Code Y) or
the 4.6L V8 engine (VIN Code 9), use premium
unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or
higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline
rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s
acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might
notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly
referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87,
you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you
drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane
or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could
damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking,
the engine needs service.
Gasoline Specications
At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specication
D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or
3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an
octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl
manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend
against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See
Additives on page 5-7for additional information.
California Fuel
If your vehicle is certied to meet California Emissions
Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that
meet California specications. See the underhood
emission control label. If this fuel is not available
in states adopting California emissions standards, your
vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting
federal specications, but emission control system
performance might be affected. The malfunction
indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail
a smog-check test. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-44. If this occurs, return to your authorized
dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that
the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs
might not be covered by your warranty.
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{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel
cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then
something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full,
and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel
cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop.
Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overll the
tank and wait a few seconds after you have nished
pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel
from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See
Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-98.
When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully
installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel
cap has been left off or improperly installed. This
would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See
Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-44.The vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the
TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed if
the fuel cap is not properly installed.{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ow of fuel by
shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one
for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not t
properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator
lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and
emissions system. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-44.
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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine air cleaner/lter.
When to Inspect the Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter
Inspect the air cleaner/lter at the MaintenanceII
intervals and replace it at the rst oil change after each
50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4for more information. If you
are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the lter
at each engine oil change.
How to Inspect the Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter
To inspect the air cleaner/lter, remove the lter from
the vehicle and lightly shake the lter to release
loose dust and dirt. If the lter remains caked with dirt, a
new lter is required.To inspect or replace the lter, do the following:
1. Loosen and remove the two screws on the top of
the engine air cleaner/lter cover.
2. Lift up the outboard side of the cover at an angle
while pulling toward you. This is necessary due to
the two hinges located on the inboard side of
the cover.
3. Remove the engine air cleaner/lter element and
any loose debris that may be found in the air
cleaner base.
4. Inspect or replace the air lter element.
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Follow these steps to reinstall the cover to the engine
air cleaner/lter housing:
1. Align the two hinges located on the inboard side of
the cover.
2. Push the cover slightly down and towards the
engine to engage the tabs in the hinges and
align the two screws.
3. Tighten the two screws on the top of the engine air
cleaner/lter housing cover.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps
to stop ames if the engine backres. If it is
not there and the engine backres, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/lter off.Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre can
cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt can
easily get into your engine, which will damage it.
Always have the air cleaner/lter in place when you
are driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change Automatic
Transmission Fluid
A good time to check your automatic transmission uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change the uid and lter at the intervals listed in
Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4, and be sure to
use the transmission uid listed inRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-12.
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How to Add Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission uid to use. SeeRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
If the uid level is low, add only enough of the proper
uid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the
dipstick.
1. Pull out the dipstick.
2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough uid at the
dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level.
It does not take much uid, generally less than
one pint (0.5 L). Do not overll.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transmission
uid may damage your vehicle, and the damages
may not be covered by your warranty. Always
use the automatic transmission uid listed in
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
3. After adding uid, recheck the uid level as
described under “How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct uid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
How to Check Automatic Transmission
Fluid (4.6L Engine)
For the 4.6L V8 engine, it is not necessary to check the
transmission uid level. A transmission uid leak is
the only reason for uid loss. If a leak occurs, take your
vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and
have it repaired as soon as possible.
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is lled with
DEX-COOL®engine coolant. This coolant is designed to
remain in your vehicle for ve years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs rst, if you add
only DEX-COOL
®extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how to
add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem
with engine overheating, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-28.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX-COOL
®coolant will:
Give freezing protection down to−34°F (−37°C).
Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).
Protect against rust and corrosion.
Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as they
should.
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