page 3 BUICK LUCERNE 2009 Owner's Manual

Page 260 of 436

Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use theRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
Turn on theHazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)

Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on
the side of the vehicle that is away from the
wind to bring in fresh air.
Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that circulates the air inside the vehicle and
set the fan speed to the highest setting.
See Climate Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 2-32.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking the exhaust.
Run the engine for short periods only as needed to
keep warm, but be careful.
To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off
and close the window most of the way to save heat.
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Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about
to keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal
slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed.
This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and
to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as
possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-18.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin
the wheels as little as possible and avoid going
above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-80.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability
system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a
rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not
get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be
towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-23.
Loading the Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show
how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire
and Loading Information label and the Vehicle
Certication label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or
either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of the vehicle.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar
(B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will nd
the label attached below the door lock post (striker).
The Tire and Loading Information label lists the
number of occupant seating positions (A), and the
maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms
and pounds. The vehicle capacity weight includes
the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all
nonfactory-installed options.The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the
tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the
recommended cold tire ination pressures (D).
For more information on tires and ination, see
Tires on page 5-59andInflation - Tire Pressure
on page 5-66.
There is also important loading information on the
Certication label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see
“Certication Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1.Locate the statement “The combined weight of
occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2.Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your
vehicle.
3.Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4.The resulting gure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity.
For example, if the “XXX” amount equals
1400 lbs and there will be ve 150 lb
passengers in your vehicle, the amount of
available cargo and luggage load capacity is
650 lbs (1400−750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
Label Example
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5.Determine the combined weight of luggage
and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That
weight may not safely exceed the available
cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in
Step 4.
6.If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load
from your trailer will be transferred to your
vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how
this reduces the available cargo and luggage
load capacity for your vehicle.
If your vehicle can tow a trailer, seeTowing a
Trailer on page 4-25for important information
on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and
trailering tips.
Item Description Total
AMaximum Vehicle
Capacity Weight for
Example 1=1,000 lbs
(453 kg)
BSubtract Occupant
Weight 150 lbs
(68 kg)×2=300 lbs (136 kg)
CAvailable Occupant
and Cargo Weight=700 lbs (317 kg)
Example 1
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{CAUTION:
Things you put inside the vehicle can strike
and injure people in a sudden stop or turn,
or in a crash.
Put things in the trunk of your vehicle.
In a trunk, put them as far forward as you
can. Try to spread the weight evenly.
Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them
are above the tops of the seats.
Do not leave an unsecured child restraint
in the vehicle.
When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
Do not leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed
with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/
retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled
vehicle must be towed. SeeRoadside Assistance
Program on page 7-7.
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for
recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
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Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing.
Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle
with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up
on a device known as a dolly.
Here are some important things to consider before
recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will the vehicle be towed? Some vehicles
have restrictions on how far and how long they
can tow.
Does the vehicle have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing
the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is
prepared to be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long
Trip on page 4-13.
Dinghy Towing
Notice:If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels
on the ground, the drivetrain components could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by
the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground.
The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all
four wheels on the ground. Use a dolly if the vehicle
must be towed. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section
for more information.
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Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much
the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can
depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the
amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See
“Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for
more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or
advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices.
SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 7-6for
more information.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total gross weight
of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo
carried in it, and the people who will be riding in thevehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing
a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW
because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too.
SeeLoading the Vehicle on page 4-18for more
information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
Using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A)
should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer
weight (B).
After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the
tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper.
If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving
some items around in the trailer.
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Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the
Certication/Tire label. SeeLoading the Vehicle on
page 4-18. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for
the vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle
when the trailer hitch is installed? If there are, then
be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is
removed. If the holes are not sealed, dirt, water,
and deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust
can get into the vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on
page 2-32in the Index for more information.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to
help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it
becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to
drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because the vehicle has antilock brakes, do not try to
tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you
do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so
you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them
properly.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel ash whenever
signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps also ash, telling other drivers the vehicle
is turning, changing lanes or stopping.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument
panel ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. For this reason you may think other
drivers are seeing the signal when they are not.
It is important to check occasionally to be sure the
trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than
normal engine and transmission temperatures may
result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are
very important to allow the engine and transmission
to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforestarting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is
not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the
vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If the engine does overheat, see
Engine Overheating on page 5-35.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer
attached can be dangerous. If something goes
wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be
injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a
at surface.
If parking the rig on a hill:
1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park)
yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill
or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking
brake and shift the transmission into P (Park).
5. Release the brake pedal.
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