engine CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
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The master cylinder is located in
the left rear section of the engine
compartment. The brake master cylinder consists of an aluminum body and a
translucent nylon reservoir with minimum fill indicators.
1. Check the master cylinder body for cracks. Inspect the area around the
master cylinder for brake fluid. Leaks are indicated if there is at least a
drop of fluid. A damp condition is not normal.
2. Inspect the level of the brake fluid to assure it is at the correct height.
Clean the top of the reservoir cap so t hat all dirt is removed. Remove the
cap(s) or reservoir cover and the reservoir diaphragm.
3. Inspect the brake fluid level. Add clean DOT-3 brake fluid as required to
bring the fluid level to the line located inside the neck of the reservoir fill
opening.
4. Install the reservoir cap.
WARNING - Any sudden decrease in the fluid level indicates a possible leak in
the system and should be check ed out immediately. Do not allow brake fluid to
spill on the vehicle's finish; it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, flush the
area with water and mild soap.
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
• 1982-1991 - Delco Supreme II Brake fl uid or an equivalent fluid that
meets DOT-3 specifications
• 1992 - Hydraulic clutch fluid, GM part number 12345347 or equivalent
LEVEL CHECK
The clutch master cylinder is normally lo cated below the brake master cylinder.
The reservoir for it is located right bes ide the brake master cylinder and is made
of translucent nylon. The fl uid level of the reservoir sh ould be kept near the top
of the observation window. Before removing the cap to the reservoir, clean all
dirt from the area. This will prevent syst em contamination due to particles falling
into the reservoir when the caps are removed.
POWER STEERING PUMP
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
• GM power steering fluid, or equivalent.
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BODY LUBRICATION
HOOD LATCH AND HINGES
Clean the latch surfaces and
apply clean engine oil to the latch pilot bolts and
the spring anchor. Use the engine oil to l ubricate the hood hinges as well. Use a
chassis grease to lubricate all the pivot points in the latch release mechanism.
DOOR HINGES
The gas tank filler door, car door, and rear hatch or trunk lid hinges should be
wiped clean and lubricated with clean engi ne oil. Silicone spray also works well
on seals, but must be applied more often. Use engine oil to lubricate the trunk
or hatch lock mechanism and the lock bo lt and striker. The door lock cylinders
can be lubricated easily with a shot of silicone spray or one of the many dry
penetrating lubricants commercially available.
PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE
Use chassis grease on the parking brake c able where it contacts the guides,
links, levers, and pulleys. The grease s hould be water resistant for durability.
ACCELERATOR LINKAGE
Lubricate the throttle lever, and the accele rator pedal lever at the support inside
the car with clean engine oil.
TRANSMISSION SHIFT LINKAGE
Lubricate the shift linkage with water re sistant chassis grease which meets GM
Specification 6031M or its equal.
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Once every 30,000 miles, clean and repack wheel bearings with a wheel
bearing packer. Remove any excess grea se from the exposed surface of the
hub and seal.
REMOVAL, REPACKING, INSTA LLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
WARNING - It is important that wheel b earings be properly adjusted after
installation. Improperly adj usted wheel bearings can c ause steering instability,
front end shimmy and wander, and increased tire wear.
1. Raise the car and support it at the lower arm. Remove the tire and wheel
assembly.
2. Remove the brake caliper and support it on a wire.
3. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, ca stle nut, thrust washer and outside
wheel bearing.
4. Pull the disc/hub assembly from the steering knuckle.
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Fig. 14: After the bearings are adjusted, install the dust cap by gently tapping on
the flange - DO NOT damage the c ap by hammering on the center
JUMP STARTING A DEAD BATTERY
Whenever a vehicle is jump started, pr ecautions must be followed in order to
prevent the possibility of personal inju ry. Remember that batteries contain a
small amount of explosive hydrogen gas which is a by-product of battery
charging. Sparks should always be av oided when working around batteries,
especially when attaching jumper cabl es. To minimize the possibility of
accidental sparks, follow the procedure carefully.
Fig. 1: Connect the jumper cables to the batteries and engine in the order
shown
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CAUTION
- NEVER hook the batteries up in a series circuit or the entire
electrical system will go up in smoke, including the starter!
Vehicles equipped with a diesel engine may utilize two 12 volt batteries. If so,
the batteries are connected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to positive
terminal, negative terminal to negative te rminal). Hooking the batteries up in
parallel circuit increases battery cranki ng power without increasing total battery
voltage output. Output remains at 12 vo lts. On the other hand, hooking two 12
volt batteries up in a series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal,
positive terminal to negative terminal) incr eases total battery output to 24 volts
(12 volts plus 12 volts).
JUMP STARTING PRECAUTIONS
• Be sure that both batteries are of t he same voltage. Vehicles covered by
this information and most vehicles on the road today utilize a 12 volt
charging system.
• Be sure that both batteries are of the same polarity (have the same
terminal, in most cases NEGATIVE grounded).
• Be sure that the vehicles are not touching or a short could occur.
• On serviceable batteries, be sure the v ent cap holes are not obstructed.
• Do not smoke or allow sparks anywhere near the batteries.
• In cold weather, make sure the battery electrolyte is not frozen. This can
occur more readily in a battery that has been in a state of discharge.
• Do not allow electrolyte to c ontact your skin or clothing.
JUMP STARTING PROCEDURE 1. Make sure that the voltages of the 2 batteries are the same. Most
batteries and charging systems are of the 12 volt variety.
2. Pull the jumping vehicle (with t he good battery) into a position so the
jumper cables can reach the dead battery and that vehicle's engine.
Make sure that the ve hicles do NOT touch.
3. Place the transmissions of both vehicles in Neutral (MT) or P (AT), as
applicable, then firmly set their parking brakes.
If necessary for safety reasons, the hazard lights on both vehicles may be
operated throughout the entir e procedure without significantly increasing the
difficulty of jumping the dead battery.
4. Turn all lights and accessories OFF on both vehicles. Make sure the ignition switches on both vehicles are turned to the OFF position.
5. Cover the battery cell caps with a rag, but do not cover the terminals.
6. Make sure the terminals on both batte ries are clean and free of corrosion
or proper electrical connection wil l be impeded. If necessary, clean the
battery terminals before proceeding.
7. Identify the positive (+) and negat ive (-) terminals on both batteries.
8. Connect the first jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead
battery, then connect the other end of that cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the booster (good) battery.
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9. Connect one end of the other jumper
cable to the negative (-) terminal on
the booster battery and the final cable clamp to an engine bolt head,
alternator bracket or ot her solid, metallic point on the engine with the
dead battery. Try to pick a ground on the engine that is positioned away
from the battery in order to minimi ze the possibility of the 2 clamps
touching should one l oosen during the procedure. DO NOT connect this
clamp to the negative (-) term inal of the bad battery.
CAUTION - Be very careful to keep the jum per cables away from moving parts
(cooling fan, belts, etc.) on both engines.
10. Check to make sure that the c ables are routed away from any moving
parts, then start the d onor vehicle's engine. Run the engine at moderate
speed for several minutes to allow the dead battery a chance to receive
some initial charge.
11. With the donor vehicle's engine still r unning slightly above idle, try to start
the vehicle with the dead battery. Crank the engine for no more than 10 \
seconds at a time and let the starter cool for at least 20 seconds between
tries. If the vehicl e does not start in 3 tries, it is likely that something else
is also wrong or that the battery needs additional time to charge.
12. Once the vehicle is star ted, allow it to run at idle for a few seconds to
make sure that it is operating properly.
13. Turn ON the headlight s, heater blower and, if equipped, the rear
defroster of both vehicles in order to reduce the severity of voltage spikes
and subsequent risk of dam age to the vehicles' electrical systems when
the cables are disconnected. This st ep is especially important to any
vehicle equipped with computer control modules.
14. Carefully disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection. Star\
t with the negative cable that is attached to the engine ground, then the
negative cable on the donor battery. Di sconnect the positive cable from
the donor battery and finally, disconnect the positive cable from the
formerly dead battery. Be careful when disconnecting the cables from the
positive terminals not to allow the alli gator clips to touch any metal on
either vehicle or a short and sparks will occur.
JACKING
Your vehicle was supplied with a jack for emergency road repairs. This jack is
fine for changing a flat tire or other s hort term procedures not requiring you to
go beneath the vehicle. If it is used in an emergency situation, carefully follow
the instructions provided eit her with the jack or in your owner's manual. Do not
attempt to use the jack on any portions of the vehicle other than specified by the
vehicle manufacturer. Always block the diagonally opposite wheel when using a
jack.
A more convenient way of jacking is the use of a garage or floor jack. You may
use the floor jack to raise the vehicle in the areas shown in the illustration .
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Fig. 1: Vehicle hoisting and jacking points
Never place the jack under the radiator , engine or transmission components.
Severe and expensive damage wil l result when the jack is raised. Additionally,
never jack under the floorpan or body work; the metal will deform.
Whenever you plan to work under the v ehicle, you must support it on jackstands
or ramps. Never use cinder blocks or st acks of wood to support the vehicle,
even if you're only going to be under it for a few minutes. Never crawl under the
vehicle when it is supported only by the tire-changing jack or other floor jack.
Always position a block of wood or smal l rubber pad on top of the jack or
jackstand to protect the lifting point's finish when lifting or supporting the vehicle.
Small hydraulic, screw, or sci ssors jacks are satisfactory for raising the vehicle.
Drive-on trestles or ramps are also a handy and safe way to both raise and
support the vehicle. Be careful though, some ramps may be too steep to drive
your vehicle onto without scraping t he front bottom panels. Never support the
vehicle on any suspension member (unless specifically instructed to do so by a
repair manual) or by an underbody panel.
JACKING PRECAUTIONS
The following safety points cannot be overemphasized:
• Always block the opposite wheel or wheels to keep the vehicle from
rolling off the jack.
• When raising the front of the vehicle, firmly apply the parking brake.
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Fig. 4: Lifting out the strut
1. Place the ignition key in the unlock ed position so that the front wheels
can be moved.
2. From inside the engine compartm ent, remove the upper strut to upper
mount nut.
CAUTION - Do not attempt to move the ve hicle with the upper strut fastener
disconnected.
3. Raise the front of the vehicl e and position safety stands under the
vehicle.
4. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
5. Remove the brake caliper without disconnecting the fluid hose, and hang
out of the way on a wire. Do not allo w the caliper to hang by its fluid
hose.
6. Remove the two lower bolts attachi ng the strut to the steering knuckle.
7. Lift the strut up from the steering k nuckle to compress the rod, then pull
down and remove the strut.
To install: 8. Half extend the rod through th e upper mount, then hand-start the upper
fastener, engaging as many threads as possible.
9. Extend the strut and position it onto the steering knuckle.
10. Install the lower mount bolts hand-tight.
11. Tighten the upper fastener fully.
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12. Fully tighten the lower bolts onl
y when the front suspension is on the
ground. Torque the steering knuckle-to-strut nuts to 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm)
followed by a 120 degree turn. Do not exceed a final torque of 148 Ft.
lbs. (200 Nm).
13. Install the brake caliper
14. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
15. Lower the front of the vehicle.
16. From inside the engine compartm ent, tighten the upper strut to upper
mount nut to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
17. Have the front end aligned.
OVERHAUL
The OEM domestic struts are serviced by replacement of the entire unit. There
is no strut cartridge to replace.
LOWER BALL JOINT
INSPECTION
Before performing this inspection, make sure the wheel bearings are adjusted
correctly and that the control arm bushings are in good condition.
1. Jack the car up under the front lower control arm at the spring seat.
2. Raise the car until t here is 1-2 in. (25-51mm) of clearance under the
wheel.
3. Insert a bar under the wheel and pr y upward. If the wheel raises more
than
1/8 in. (3mm), the ball joints are worn. Determine if the lower ball
joint is worn by visual inspec tion while prying on the wheel.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Lower ball joint replacement
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COIL SPRINGS
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Raise the car by the frame so that the rear axle can be independently
raised and lowered.
2. Support the rear axle with a floor jack.
3. If equipped with brake hose attaching brackets, disconnect the brackets
allowing the hoses to hang free. Do not disconnect the hoses. Perform
this step only if the hoses woul d otherwise be stretched and damaged
when the axle is lowered.
4. Disconnect the track bar from the axle.
5. Remove the lower shock absorber bol ts and lower the axle. Make sure
the axle is supported securely on t he floor jack and that there is no
chance of the axle slipping after the shock absorbers are disconnected.
On vehicles equipped with a 4-cylinder engine, remove the driveshaft.
6. Lower the axle and remove the coil spring. Do not lower the axle past th\
e limits of the brake lines or the lines will be damaged.
To install: 7. Position spring with the axle lowered.
8. On vehicles equipped with 4-cylinder engines, install the driveshaft.
9. Raise the axle and install the lower shock absorber bolts.
10. Connect the track bar to the axle.
11. Connect the brake hose attaching brackets, if removed.
12. Remove the support from the rear axle.
13. Lower the vehicle.
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5. On models with four cylinder engines, remove the driveshaft.
6. Carefully lower the rear axle asse
mbly and remove the rear coil springs.
CAUTION - DO NOT overstretch the br ake hose when lowering the axle-
damage to the hose will result.
7. Remove the torque arm rear attaching bolts.
8. Remove the front torq ue arm outer bracket.
9. Remove the torque ar m from the vehicle.
To install: 10. Place the torque arm in position and loosely install the rear torque arm
bolts.
11. Install the front torque arm bracket and torque the nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42
Nm).
12. Torque the rear torque arm nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
13. Place the rear springs and insulators in position, then raise the rear axle
assembly until all of the weight is supported by the spring.
14. Attach the shock absorbers to the rear axle and torque the fasteners to
70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
15. Clean and reinstall the track bar mounting bolt at the axle. Torque the
bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
16. Clean and reinstall the track bar-t o-body brace nut. Torque the nut to 78
ft. lbs. (105 Nm).
17. Install the brake line clip to the underbody.
18. On four cylinder models, reinstall the driveshaft.
19. Lower the vehicle.