CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2010 2.G Owners Manual

the minimum required by law. Warning: The
temperature grade for this tire is established for a
tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded.
Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive
loading, either separately or in combination, can
cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and
balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest
tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to
wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be
necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice
unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or
the other, the alignment might need to be checked.
If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a
smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be
rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly
rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose,
the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be
replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some
aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired).
See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the
same way as the one it replaces.
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If you need to replace any of the wheels, wheel bolts,
wheel nuts or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS)
sensors, replace them only with new GM original
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors
for the vehicle.
{WARNING:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts,
or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your
vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you
lose control. You could have a collision in which
you or others could be injured. Always use the
correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for
replacement.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems
with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height,
vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain
clearance to the body and chassis. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced
on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after
100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km)
of driving. For proper torque, see
“Wheel Nut Torque”
under Capacities and Specifications on page 6‑126.
See Changing a Flat Tire
on page 6‑90for more
information.
Used Replacement Wheels
{WARNING:
Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous.
You cannot know how it has been used or how far
it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and
cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use
a new GM original equipment wheel.
6-88

Tire Chains
{WARNING:
If your vehicle has dual wheels or P265/65R18,
P275/55R20 or LT265/70R17 size tires, do not
use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle
because there is not enough clearance. Tire
chains used on a vehicle without the proper
amount of clearance can cause damage to the
brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The
area damaged by the tire chains could cause you
to lose control of your vehicle and you or others
may be injured in a crash.
Use another type of traction device only if its
manufacturer recommends it for use on your
vehicle and tire size combination and road
conditions. Follow that manufacturer's
instructions. To help avoid damage to your
vehicle, drive slowly, readjust, or remove the
device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not
spin your vehicle's wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit, install
them on the rear tires.Notice:
If your vehicle does not have dual wheels
and has a tire size other than P265/65R18, P275/
55R20 or LT265/70R17, use tire chains only where
legal and only when you must. Use chains that are
the proper size for your tires. Install them on the
tires of the rear axle. Do not use chains on the tires
of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible
with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and
follow the chain manufacturer's instructions. If you
can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop
and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow
down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the
wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle's tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are
a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
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A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{WARNING:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the
appropriate safety equipment and training. If a
jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed
only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for
anything else, you or others could be badly
injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a
jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for
changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard
warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers
on
page 4‑3.
{WARNING:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or
other people. You and they could be badly injured
or even killed. Find a level place to change your
tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in P (Park), or shift a manual transmission to
1 (First) or R (Reverse).
(Continued)
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WARNING: (Continued)
3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be surethe transfer case is in a drive gear –not in
N (Neutral).
4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised.
5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle.
To be even more certain the vehicle will not move,
put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest
away from the one being changed. That would be
the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of
the vehicle. When the vehicle has a flat tire (B), use the following
example as a guide to assist you in the placement of
wheel blocks (A).
A. Wheel Block
B. Flat Tire
The following information explains how to use the jack
and change a tire.
6-91

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
Crew Cab
A. Wing Nut Retaining Tool Kit
B. Tool Kit
C. Wheel Blocks D. Jack
E. Jack Knob F. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks
Regular Cab
A. Wing Nut Retaining Tool Kit
B. Tool Kit
C. Wheel Blocks D. Jack
E. Jack Knob F. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks
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Extended Cab
A. Wing Nut Retaining Tool Kit
B. Tool Kit C. Wheel Blocks
D. Jack
E. Jack Knob For regular cab models, the equipment you will need is
behind the passenger's seat. For extended and crew
cab models, the equipment is on the shelf behind the
passenger's side second row seat.
1. Turn the knob on the jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head to release the jack from its
holder.
2. Remove the wheel blocks and the wheel block retainer by turning the wing nut counterclockwise.
3. Remove the wing nut used to retain the storage bag and tools by turning it counterclockwise.
You will use the jack handle extensions and the wheel
wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.
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A. Spare Tire (ValveStem Pointed Down)
B. Hoist Assembly
C. Hoist Cable
D. Tire/Wheel Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of
Extension Tool
G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle Extensions
J. Spare Tire Lock (If equipped) 1. Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and
use the ignition key to remove the spare tire
lock (J). To remove the spare tire lock, insert the
ignition key turn and pull straight out.
2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two jack
handle extensions (I) as shown.
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3. Insert the hoist end(open end) (F) of the
extension through the
hole (G) in the rear
bumper.
Do not use the
chiseled end of the
wheel wrench.
Be sure the hoist end of the extension (F) connects
to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the
extension is used to lower the spare tire. 4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to
lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn
the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled
out from under the vehicle.
If spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch, if the vehicle has one, may be
engaged causing the tire not to lower. See
Secondary Latch System on page 6‑103.
5. Use the wheel wrench
hook which allows you
to pull the hoist cable
towards you to assist in
reaching the spare tire.
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6. Tilt the tire toward the vehicle with some slack inthe cable to access the tire/wheel retainer.
Separate the retainer from the guide pin by sliding
the retainer up the pin while pressing down on the
latch.
Once the retainer is separated from the guide pin,
tilt the retainer and pull it through the center of the
wheel along with the cable and guide latch.
7. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
6-96