Power CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1994 User Guide

Your Driving and the Road
Section
1
Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in
varying weather conditions
. We’ve also included many other useful tips on
driving .
.............................. 4-2
Defensive Driving ..........
DrunkenDriving ........................................... 4-2
Control
of a Vehicle
Braking
... ........................................... 4-5
Steering
................................................ 4-7
Steering Tips
............................................ 4-7
Off-Road Recovery
...................................... 4-9
Passing
................................................ 4-9
LossofControl
......................................... 4-10
Off-Road Driving With Your Four-wheel Drive Vehicle
.......... 4-12
DrivingatNight
........................................... 4-23
Driving
in the Rain ........................................ 4-24
CityDriving
.............................................. 4-26
Freeway Driving
.......................................... 4-27
Hill and Mountain Roads
.................................... 4-29
Winter Driving
............................................ 4-30
Powerwinches
........................................... 4-34
PowerTake-Off(PT0)
..................................... 4-34
Towing a Trailer
........................................... 4-36
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Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of
those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you
can
lose control of your vehicle.
Braking
Brakmg action involves perception time and reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception. time.
Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time.
Average reaction time is about 314 of a second. But that’s only an average. It
might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more
with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight
all play a part.
So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a
second, a vehicle moving at
60 mph ( 100 kdh) travels 66 feet (20 m). That
could
be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space
between your vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the
road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry,
icy); tire tread; and
the condition of your brakes.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts
- heavy
acceleration followed by heavy braking
- rather than keeping pace with
traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to
cool between
hard
stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy
braking.
If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following
distances, you will eliminate a lot
of unnecessary braking. That means better
braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t
pump your brakes. If
you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If
your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But
you will
use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used
up, it may take longer
to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.
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Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up
to the brake pedal. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you
won’t have time
to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or
stops. Always
leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have
anti-lock brakes.
To Use Four-wheel Anti-Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock
work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some
noise, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you
can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can
help you more than even the very best braking.
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is
not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control’’ accidents mentioned on the news happen
on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each
of us is subject to the same laws of
physics when driving
on curves. The traction of the tires against the road
surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in
the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll
understand this.
The traction you can get
in a curve depends on the condition of your tires
and the road surface, the angle at which the curve
is banked, and your
speed. ,- While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly
accelerate. Both control systems
- steering and acceleration - have to do
their work where the tires meet the road. Adding
the sudden acceleration
can demand too
much of those places. You can lose control.
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Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.
Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places?
0 Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire
slipping?
Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make
turning maneuvers?
Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders,
trees, logs or ruts)?
What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a
fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way
to find out.
Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs
and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible
to the effects of
erosion.
Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some
special steps.
Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel.
Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use
more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start
spinning
or sliding.
Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and
turns,
you might want to find another route.
Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill.
Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching
traffic
on trails or hills.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run
the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps
the battery (or batteries) charged.
You will need a well-charged battery (or
batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your
headlights. Let the heater run for awhile.
If you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a higher speed to get
enough heat. Then, shut the engine
off and close the window almost all the
way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when
you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible.
Preserve the fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of
the vehicle
and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
Power Winches
If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your
vehicle is stationary or anchored.
NOTICE:
When operating a power winch on your vehicle, always leave the
transmission in “N” (Neutral). Leaving a automatic
transmission in “P”(Park) while using a power winch may \
damage the transmission. Also, leaving a automatic or manual
transmission in gear while using an power winch may damage
the transmission.
Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep
your vehicle from rolling.
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Power Take-Off (PTO)
NOTICE:
If you will be using the PTO while the vehicle remains in one
place, drive the vehicle to warm it up before operating the
PTO.
Don’t use the PTO for more than four hours without driving
your vehicle again. If you don’t follow these guidelines, your
transfer case or transmission could be damaged.
NOTICE:
Don’t have a PTO that will exceed 35 horsepower installed on
your vehicle. It could damage your transmission or transfer
case.
Before using a power take-off, refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s
instructions.
To engage a power take-off:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into “N” (Neutral).
3. Hold the clutch pedal down and engage the power take-off.
If
you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear
you want. Then shift the transfer case into the range you want (if you
have four-wheel drive), apply the regular brakes and release the
parking brake.
When
you release the clutch, the power take-off will start.
4. Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you normally would.
Using a Transfer Case Mounted Power Take-Off
(Manual Transmission)
I. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transfer case into “N” (Neutral).
3. Hold the clutch pedal down. If the vehicle will remain in the same
place, shift the transmission
into the highest gear.
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4. Engage the power take-off.
If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear
you want. Then shift the transfer case into the range you want, apply
the regular brakes and release the parking brake.
When
you release the clutch, the power take-off will start.
5. Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you normally would.
Using a Transfer Case Mounted Power Take-Off
(Automatic Transmission)
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transfer case into “N” (Neutral).
3. Shift the transmission into “N’ (Neutral).
4. Engage the power take-off.
If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transfer case into the
range you want. Then apply the regular brakes and release the parkin\
g
brake.
5. Shift the transmission to “D” (Drive) to start the power take-off.
6. Release the regular brakes to drive the vehicle.
Towing a Trailer
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Tu Jump Start Your Vehicle;
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative
ground system.
I NOTICE:
I
If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative
ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
If you have a diesel engine vehicle with two batteries (or more), you
should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may
not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another
vehicle to start your diesel engine.
If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s on the
passenger side
of the vehicle - this will reduce electrical resistance.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be
sure the vehicle’s aren’t touching each other.
If they are, it could cause
a ground connection
you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your
vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.
You could be injured if
the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly
on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in “P’ (Park) or a
manual transmission in “N’ (Neutral). If you have a four-wheel-drive
vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in “N” (Neutral).
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t
needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries.
And it could save your radio!
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The
repairs wouldn’t
be covered by your warranty.
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and
negative
(-) terminals on each battery.
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Service & Appearance
I Section
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle . This section
begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check
important fluid and lubricant levels
. There is also technical information
about your vehicle. and a section devoted to its appearance care
.
Service ................................................... 6-3
Fuel (Gasoline Engines)
............................
Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System ..........
Checking Things Under the Hood ........... .....
........ 6-4
.......... 6-5
......... 6-14
HoodRelease
.......................................... 6-14
Cleaning Your Diesel Engine
............................ 6-15
Engine Oil (Except Diesel)
................................ 6-16
Engine Oil (Diesel Engines)
............................... 6-22
Aircleaner
.................... .................. 6-27 ..
Automatic Transmission Fluid ............................. 6-28
Manual Transmission Fluid
............................... 6-31
Hydraulic Clutch
........................................ 6-32
RearAxle
............................................. 6-33
Transfer Case
.......................................... 6-34
FrontAxle
........................................... 6-35
Engine Coolant
......................................... 6-35
Power Steering Fluid
.............. .................. 640
Windshield Washer Fluid
............................... 6-42
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Surge Tank Pressure Cap- Diesel Engines
The surge tank
pressure cap must be
tightly installed with
the arrows
on the cap
lined up with the top
tube
of the coolant
surge tank.
NOTICE:
Your surge tank pressure cap 1s a unique 15 psi (105 kPa)
pressure-type cap for use with surge tank cooling systems only.
It must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible
engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap
line up with the top tube
of the coolant surge tank.
Thermostat
Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine
coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow
of coolant through the
radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature.
When you replace your thermostat, an
AC@ thermostat is recommended.
Power Steering Fluid
I NOTICE:
Always turn the engine off before checking or adding power
steering
fluid. The power steering pump cap is close to the fan
and other moving parts.
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