battery DODGE DURANGO 1999 1.G Workshop Manual

Page 8 of 193

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐPERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Refer to Group 8A, Battery/
Starter/ Charging System
Diagnostics.
4. Moisture on ignition wires and
distributor cap.4. Wipe wires and cap clean and
dry.
5. Faulty ignition cables. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Faulty coil or control unit. 6. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
7. Incorrect spark plug gap. 7. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
8. Incorrect ignition timing. 8. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
9. Dirt or water in fuel system. 9. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
10. Faulty fuel pump, relay or
wiring.10. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
2. Idle mixture to lean or to rich. 2. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
4. Worn or burned distributor rotor. 4. Replace distributor rotor.
5. Incorrect ignition wiring. 5. Install correct wiring.
6. Faulty coil. 6. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
7. EGR valve leaking. 7. Refer to Group 25, Emissions
Control System.
8. Incorrect cam timing. 8. Refer to Valve Timing in this
section.
9 - 8 4.7L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Page 11 of 193

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐLUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Clean or replace relief valve.
9. Oil pump suction tube loose or
damaged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(4)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible thecrankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER NOISE
DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
9 - 14 4.7L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 9).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the
engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
Fig. 8 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 ± SEALING SURFACE
2 ± RUBBER GASKET
3 ± OIL FILTER
Fig. 9 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 ± CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 ± INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 18 4.7L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
VALVE SERVICE
REFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be
reworked, provided that correct angle and seat
width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head
must be replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is
important that the correct size valve guide pilot be
used for reseating stones. A true and complete sur-
face must be obtained.
(1) Using a suitable dial indicator measure the
center of the valve seat Total run out must not
exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
(2) Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the
valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head,
while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the
valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face.
If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the
valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree
stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of
the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree
stone.
(3) When the seat is properly positioned the width
of the intake seat must be 1.75 ± 2.36 mm (0.0689 ±
0.0928 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 ± 2.32
mm (0.0673 ± 0.0911 in.).
(4) Check the valve spring installed height after
refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for
both intake and exhaust valve springs must not
exceed 41.44 mm (1.6315 in.).
(5) The valve seat and valve face must maintain a
face angle of 44.5 ± 45 degrees angle.
ENGINE TIMINGÐVERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 4.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
(2) Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the
front cover (Fig. 11). Rotate the crankshaft until the
mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the
TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at
TDC.
Fig. 10 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 ± VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 ± RETAINER
3 ± VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 ± INTAKE VALVE
5 ± EXHAUST VALVE
6 ± VALVE SPRING
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 19
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Page 28 of 193

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine nal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting
Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified
bearing-to-journal clearance.
Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block. Refer
to Crankshaft in this section for procedure.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
(1) Service main bearings are available in three
grades. The chart below identifies the three service
grades available.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
ENGINE MOUNTSÐLEFT AND RIGHT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and
fan shroud before raising engine. Failure to do so
may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and
fan shroud.
(2) Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud. Refer to Group 7. for procedure.
(3) Remove the engine oil filter.
(4) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(5) Remove the four (4) cylinder block-to-insulator
mount bolts and the nut from the engine insulator
mount through bolt (4x2 Vehicles only) (Fig. 32) (Fig.
33).
(6) Remove the three (3) cylinder block-to-insulator
mount bolts and loosen the nut from the engine insu-
lator mount through bolt (4x4 Vehicles only) (Fig. 34)
(Fig. 35).
(7) Using the jack, raise the engine high enough to
remove the engine insulator mount through bolt and
the insulator mount.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the insulator mount and install the
insulator mount through bolt.
(2) Lower the engine until the four cylinder block-
to-insulator mount bolts can be installed.
(3) Remove the jack and block of wood.
(4) Torque the cylinder block-to-insulator mount
bolts to 61N´m ( 45 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install and torque the through bolt retaining
nut to 61N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud.
GRADE SIZE mm
(in.)FOR USE WITH
MARKING JOURNAL SIZE
A.008 mm U/S 63.488-63.496 mm
(.0004 in.)
U/S(2.4996-2.4999 in.)
BSTANDARD 63.496-63.504 mm
(2.4996-2.4999 in.)
C.008 mm O/S 63.504-63.512 mm
(.0004 in.)
O/S(2.5002-2.5005 in.)
Fig. 32 Engine Insulator Mount 4x2 VehicleÐLeft
Side
1 ± ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNT-LEFT SIDE
2 ± MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 33 Engine Insulator Mount 4x2 VehicleÐRight
Side
1 ± ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNT-RIGHT SIDE
2 ± MOUNTING BOLT
9 - 28 4.7L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine ENGINE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure applies to both the 4X2 and
4X4 vehicles, steps that apply to the 4X4 vehicle
only, are identified.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative and positive
cables.
(2) Remove the battery and the battery tray. Refer
to BATTERY.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust
manifolds. Refer to EXHAUST SYSTEM.
(5)4X4 vehiclesDisconnect axle vent tube from
left side engine mount.
(6) Remove the through bolt retaining nut and bolt
from both the left and right side engine mounts (Fig.
40) (Fig. 41).
(7)4X4 vehiclesRemove locknut from left and
right side engine mount brackets (Fig. 41).
(8) Disconnect two ground straps from the lower
left hand side and one ground strap from the lower
right hand side of the engine.
(9) Disconnect crankshaft position sensor. (Fig. 43)
NOTE: The following step applies to 4X4 vehicles
equipped with automatic transmission only.
(10)4X4 vehiclesRemove the axle isolator
bracket from the engine, transmission and the axle
(Fig. 42).
(11) Remove structural cover. Refer to Structural
Cover in this section for procedure.
(12) Remove starter. Refer to STARTING SYS-
TEM.
(13) Drain cooling system. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(14) Remove torque converter bolts (Automatic
Transmission Only). Refer to TRANSMISSION.
(15) Remove transmission to engine mounting
bolts.
(16) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable from the block heater, if equipped.(17) Lower vehicle.
(18) Remove throttle body resonator assembly and
air inlet hose.
(19) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(20) Disconnect tube from both the left and right
side crankcase breathers (Fig. 44). Remove breathers
(21) Discharge A/C system. Refer to HEATING and
AIR CONDITIONING.
(22) Remove A/C compressor.
(23) Remove shroud, fan assemblies and accessory
drive belt. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(24) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at the
radiator.
(25) Disconnect radiator upper and lower hoses.
Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(26) Remove radiator, A/C condenser and transmis-
sion oil cooler as an assembly. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(27) Remove generator.
(28) Disconnect the two heater hoses from the tim-
ing chain cover and heater core.
(29) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from the intake manifold (Fig. 45).
(30) Disconnect engine harness at the following
points :
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor (Fig. 46)
²Fuel Injectors
SEQUENCE ITEM TORQUE
1BOLT 54 N´m
(Qty 4) (40 ft. lbs.)
2BOLT 54 N´m
(Qty 2) (40 ft. lbs.)
3BOLT 54 N´m
(Qty 2) (40 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 40 Engine Mount Through Bolt and Nut
Removal / InstallationÐ4X2 Vehicles
1 ± LOCKNUT AND WASHER
2 ± ENGINE MOUNT/INSULATOR
3 ± THROUGH BOLT
4 ± FRAME
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 31
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (20) Install both breathers. Connect tube to both
crankcase breathers (Fig. 44).
(21) Connect throttle and speed control cables.
(22) Install throttle body resonator assembly and
air inlet hose. Tighten clamps 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.).
(23) Raise vehicle.
(24) Install transmission to engine mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(25) Install torque converter bolts (Automatic
Transmission Only).
(26) Connect crankshaft position sensor (Fig. 43).
(27)4X4 vehiclesPosition and install the axle
isolator bracket onto the axle, transmission and
engine block. Tighten bolts to specification. Refer to
Specifications in this section.
(28) Install starter.
CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific
torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence
may cause severe damage to the cover.(29) Install structural cover. Refer to Structural
Cover in this section.
(30) Install exhaust crossover pipe.
(31) Install engine block heater power cable, If
equipped.
(32)4X4 vehiclesConnect axle vent tube to left
side engine mount.
(33) Lower vehicle.
(34) Check and fill engine oil.
(35) Recharge the A/C system.
(36) Refill the engine cooling system. Refer to
COOLING SYSTEM.
(37) Install the battery tray and battery.
(38) Connect the battery positive and negative
cables.
(39) Start the engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 46 Throttle Body Connection Points
1 ± THROTTLE BODY
2 ± TPS
3 ± IAC MOTOR
4 ± IAT SENSOR
5 ± MOUNTING SCREWS
Fig. 47 Engine Lifting Fixture Attachment Locations
1 ± ATTACHING LOCATION
2 ± ADJUSTABLE HOOK
3 ± SPECIAL TOOL 8347 ENGINE LIFT FIXTURE
4 ± ATTACHING LOCATIONS
9 - 34 4.7L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INTAKE MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(4) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components: Refer to FUEL SYSTEM for compo-
nent locations.
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster
hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(6) Disconnect generator electrical connections.
(7) Disconnect air conditioning compressor electri-
cal connections.
(8) Disconnect left and right radio suppressor
straps.
(9) Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
(10) Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt
and ground strap.
(11) Bleed fuel system. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM.
(12) Remove fuel rail.
(13) Remove throttle body assembly and mounting
bracket.
(14) Drain cooling system below coolant tempera-
ture level. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(15) Remove the heater hoses from the engine
front cover and the heater core.
(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold (Fig. 50).
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor. Refer to
FUEL SYSTEM.
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence (Fig. 51).
(19) Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Install intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in (Fig. 51) to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Install throttle cable bracket.
(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail.
(9) Install ignition coil towers.
Fig. 48 Body Ground StrapÐRight Side Removal /
Installation
1 ± NUT
2 ± A/C ACCUMULATOR
3 ± GROUND STRAP
Fig. 49 Body Ground StrapÐLeft Side Removal /
Installation
1 ± NUT
2 ± GROUND STRAP
3 ± BRAKE BOOSTER
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 35
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

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