Head bolts DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Repair Manual
Page 1399 of 2627
INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush
with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on
front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston
spring force to lock pin (Fig. 134).
(2) Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump
and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner
bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torxT
bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head.
Tighten torxTbolt to specified torque only.
(3) Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply
MopartLock N, Seal to torxtbolt, tighten bolt to 17
N´m (150 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cyl-
inder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to
the engine block.(4) Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torxT
bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head.
Tighten torxTbolt to specified torque only.
(5) Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply
MopartLock N, Seal to torxtbolt, tighten bolt to 17
N´m (150 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(7) Install both secondary chains onto the idler
sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary
chains to be visible through the two lower openings
on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once
the secondary timing chains are installed, position
special tool 8515 to hold chains in place for installa-
tion (Fig. 135).
(8) Align primary chain double plated links with
the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket
(Fig. 133).
Fig. 134 Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners
1 - VISE
2 - INSERT LOCK PIN
3 - RATCHET PAWL
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
Fig. 135 Installing Secondary Timing Chains on
Idler Sprocket
1 - LOCK ARM
2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4)
4 - IDLER SPROCKET
5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
9 - 176 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)
Page 1400 of 2627
(9) Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
(10) Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and
idler sprocket as an assembly (Fig. 136). After guid-
ing both secondary chains through the block and cyl-
inder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap
or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on
chains to aid in installation.
NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate cam-
shafts for sprocket installation.
(11) Align left camshaft sprocket ªLº dot to plated
link on chain.
(12) Align right camshaft sprocket ªRº dot to
plated link on chain.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-
torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
(13) Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both
sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts,
then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this
time.
(14) Verify that all plated links are aligned with
the marks on all sprockets and the ªV8º marks on
camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position (Fig.
133).
CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left sec-
ondary chain tensioner and block is correctly
installed.(15) Install both secondary chain tensioners.
Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners
are not common.
(16) Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate
washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly
retaining bolt to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
(17) Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners.
CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each
tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s)
ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains,
resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
(18) Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adap-
tor Pins 8346, tighten left (Fig. 137) and right (Fig.
138). camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 136 Installing Idler Gear, Primary and
Secondary Timing Chains
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
Fig. 137 Tightening Left Side Camshaft Sprocket
Bolt
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
3 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 177
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)
Page 1418 of 2627
VALVE SPRING
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Spring Force (Valve
Closed)
Intake and Exhaust 422.0 N @ 46.0 mm
(95lbs. @ 1.81 in.)
Spring Force (Valve
Open)
Intake and Exhaust @ 33.5 mm
Number of Coils
Intake and Exhaust 7.4
Wire Diameter
Intake and Exhaust 5.39 ý 4.52 mm
(0.212 - 0.177 in.)
Installed Height (Spring
Seat to Bottom of
Retainer)
Intake and Exhaust 46.0 mm (1.81 in.)
OIL PUMP
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Clearance Over Rotors
(MAX)0.095 mm (0.0038 in.)
Outer Rotor to Pump
Body Clearance (MAX).235 mm (.009 in.)
Tip Clearance Between
Rotors (MAX)0.150 mm (0.006 in.)
OIL PRESSURE
SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION
At Curb Idle Speed
(MIN)*25 kPa (4 psi)
@ 3000 rpm 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110
psi)
* CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO
NOT run engine
TORQUE
TORQUE CHART 5.7L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Block Pipe Plugs
(1/4 NPT)20 Ð 177
(3/8 NPT) 27 Ð 240
Camshaft SprocketÐBolt 122 90 Ð
Camshaft Tensioner
PlateÐBolts28 Ð 250
Timing Chain Case CoverÐ
Bolts28 Ð 250
Lifting Stud 55 40 Ð
Connecting Rod CapÐBolts 21
plus
90É
Turn15
plus
90É
TurnÐ
Main Bearing CapÐBolts
M-1227
plus
90É
TurnÐÐ
Crossbolts
M-828 Ð Ð
Cylinder HeadÐBolts
M-12 Bolts
Step 1 34 25 Ð
Step 2 54 40 Ð
Step 3 Turn
90ÉTurn
90ÉÐ
M-8 Bolts Ð
Step 1 20 15 Ð
Step 2 34 25 Ð
Cylinder Head CoverÐBolts 8 Ð 70
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder
Head25 Ð 220
Flexplate to crankshaftÐBolts 95 70 Ð
Flywheel to crankshaftÐBolts 75 55 Ð
Front InsulatorÐThrough
bolt/nut95 70 Ð
Front Insulator to Support
Bracket
ÐStud Nut (4WD) 41 30 Ð
ÐThrough Bolt/Nut (4WD) 102 75 Ð
Front Insulator to BlockÐ
Bolts (2WD)95 70 Ð
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 195
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)
Page 1422 of 2627
AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
REMOVAL
Filter Element Only
Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 2) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Pry over 4 spring clips (Fig. 2) from housing
cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
(3) Release housing cover from locating tabs on
housing (Fig. 2) and remove cover.
(4) Remove air cleaner element (filter) from hous-
ing.
(5) Clean inside of housing before replacing ele-
ment.
Housing Assembly
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 2) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating
pins (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install filter element into housing.
(2) Position housing cover into housing locating
tabs (Fig. 2).(3) Pry up 4 spring clips (Fig. 2) and lock cover to
housing.
(4) Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten
hose clamp to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) If any other hose clamps were removed from
air intake system, tighten them to 3.4 N´m (30 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) If any bolts were removed from air resonator
housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
CYLINDER HEAD
OPERATIONÐCYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder head closes the combustion chamber
allowing the pistons to compress the air fuel mixture
to the correct ratio for ignition. The valves located in
the cylinder head open and close to either allow clean
air into the combustion chamber or to allow the
exhaust gases out, depending on the stroke of the
engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER HEAD
GASKET FAILURE
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
Fig. 2 AIR CLEANER HOUSING COVER
1 - CLAMP
2 - AIR DUCT
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - LOCATING TABS
5 - CLIPS (4)
Fig. 3 AIR CLEANER HOUSING
1 - AIR CLEANER HOUSING ASSEMBLY
2 - LOCATING PINS (4)
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 199
Page 1423 of 2627
þ Loss of engine power
þ Engine misfiring
þ Poor fuel economy
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
þ Engine overheating
þ Loss of coolant
þ Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
þ Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in this
section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking
between adjacent cylinders will result in approxi-
mately a 50±70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system.
(3) Remove the air cleaner resonator and duct
work.
(4) Remove the generator.
(5) Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
(6) Disconnect the evaporation control system.
(7) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release pro-
cedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIV-
ERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Disconnect the
fuel supply line (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect heater hoses.
(9) Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets.
(10) Remove intake manifold and throttle body as
an assembly.
(11) Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods.
Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
(12) Remove the head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylin-
der head gasket.
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness,
using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If tolerances
exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder
head.
(2) Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the
valve seats as necessary.
(3) Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or
looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylin-
der head.
(4) Inspect pushrods. Replace worn or bent push-
rods.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylin-
der heads.
(2) Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket sur-
faces using a suitable solvent.
CAUTION: The head gaskets are not interchange-
able between left and right sides. They are marked
ªLº and ªRº to indicate left and right sides.
(3) Position new cylinder head gaskets onto the
cylinder block.
9 - 200 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)
Page 1424 of 2627
CAUTION: The head gaskets are marked ªTOPº to
indicate which side goes up.
(4) Position cylinder heads onto head gaskets and
cylinder block.
(5) Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps
(Fig. 4):
²Step 1Ð Snug tighten M12 cylinder head bolts,
in sequence, to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) and M8 bolts to
20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Step 2Ð Tighten M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) and verify M8 bolts
to 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque..
²Step 3Ð Turn M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, 90 degrees and tighten M8 bolts to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in
their original position.
(7) Install the intake manifold and throttle body
assembly.
(8) If required, adjust spark plugs to specifications.
Install the plugs.
(9) Connect the heater hoses.
(10) Install the fuel supply line.
(11) Install the generator and drive belt.
(12) Install cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Connect the evaporation control system.
(14) Install the air cleaner.
(15) Fill cooling system.
(16) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(17) Start engine check for leaks.CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect coil on plug connectors.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in
the same location as removed. The covers are
machined to accept the ground straps in those
locations only.
(3) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts,
and ground straps.
(4) Remove cylinder head cover.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ-
ing the wire harness to rest on or against the
engine cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with
other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head
cover.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2)
Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fas-
teners. Verify that all double ended studs are in the cor-
rect location and install left and right ground straps.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in
the same location as removed. The covers are
machined to accept the ground straps in those
locations only.
NOTE: The right hand ground strap is located on
the front inboard stud. The left hand ground strap
is located on the rear inboard stud.
(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 8 N´m (70 in. lbs). Begin torque
sequence in the middle of head cover and torque
bolts moving outward in a crisscross pattern from top
to bottom.
(4) Install ignition coil on plug, and torque fasten-
ers to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs)
(5) Connect, ignition coil electrical connectors.
(6) Install PCV hose.
(7) Connect battery negative cable.
Fig. 4 CYLINDER HEAD TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 201
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)
Page 1426 of 2627
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(2) Compress valve springs using Valve Spring
Compressor Tool special tool # C-3422and adapter
8464.
(3) Remove valve retaining locks, valve spring
retainers, valve stem seals and valve springs.
(4) Before removing valves, remove any burrs from
valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the
valve guides. Identify valves to ensure installation in
original location.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean valves thoroughly. Discard burned,
warped and cracked valves.
(2) Remove carbon and varnish deposits from
inside of valve guides with a reliable guide cleaner.
(3) Measure valve stems for wear. If wear exceeds
0.051 mm (0.002 inch), replace the valve.
(4) Coat valve stems with lubrication oil and insert
them in cylinder head.
(5) If valves or seats are reground, check valve
stem height. If valve is too long, replace cylinder
head.
(6) Install new seals on all valve guides. Install
valve springs and valve retainers.
(7) Compress valve springs with Valve Spring
Compressor Tool special tool # C- 3422and adapter
8464, install locks and release tool. If valves and/or
seats are ground, measure the installed height of
springs. Make sure the measurement is taken from
bottom of spring seat in cylinder head to the bottom
surface of spring retainer.
(8) Install cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head cover.(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(2) Loosen the rocker shafts using the following
sequence:Center, center-left, center-right, left,
right,.
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not
interchangeable between intake and exhaust. The
intake rocker arms are marked with an ªIº.
(3) Remove the rocker shafts. Note location for
reassembly.CAUTION: The longer push rods are for the exhaust
side, and the shorter push rods are for intake side.
(4) Remove the pushrods. Note pushrod location
for reassembly.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The longer push rods are for the exhaust
side, and the shorter push rods are for intake side.
(1) Install the push rods in the same order as
removed.
CAUTION: Verify that pushrod is installed into
rocker arm and lifter correctly while installing
rocker shaft assembly. Recheck after rocker shaft
has been torqued to specification.
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not
interchangeable between intake and exhaust. The
intake rocker arms are marked with the letter ªIº.
(2) Install rocker shaft assemblies in the same
order as removed.
CAUTION: Ensure that hold downs and rocker arms
are not overlapped when torquing bolts.
(3) Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 22 N´m (195
in. lbs.) torque,using the following sequence:Center,
center-right, center-left, right, left.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate or crank the engine dur-
ing or immediately after rocker arm installation.
Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about 5 minutes).
(4) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and
incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The
integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrica-
tion control to the valve stems.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 203
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)
Page 1427 of 2627
VALVE SPRINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(3) Remove air intake resonator.
(4) Remove spark plug cables.
(5) Remove ignition coil connectors (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove ignition coils.
(7) Remove one spark plug.
(8) Remove valve cover.
CAUTION: The piston must be at TDC, and both
valves closed on the cylinder to be serviced.
NOTE: If removing intake valve spring, install spe-
cial tool# 9070, pushrod retaining plate, to retain
the intake pushrods.
(9) Remove exhaust/intake rocker arm shafts.
(10) Install spring compressor, special tool# 9065.
NOTE: All valve springs and seals are removed in
the same manner.(11) Charge cylinder with air.
NOTE: Tap the top of the valve spring retainer to
loosen the spring retainers locks.
(12) Compress valve spring and remove valve
retainer locks.
(13) Release spring compressor and remove valve
spring.
NOTE: The valve springs are interchangeable
between intake and exhaust.
(14) Remove valve seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install valve seal.
(2) Install valve spring.
(3) Using special tool# 9065, compress valve spring
and install valve spring retainer and locks.
(4) Release air charge in cylinder.
(5) Remove spring compressor tool # 9065.
CAUTION: Verify that the pushrods are fully seated
into lifter and rocker arm. Recheck after rocker arm
shaft has been torqued to specification.
(6) Install rocker arm shaft and pushrods(Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(7) Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 22 N´m (195
in. lbs.) torque,using the following sequence:Center,
center-right, center-left, right, left.
(8) Remove special tool# 9070, pushrod retaining
plate, if used.
(9) Install cylinder head cover.
(10) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Install spark plugs.
(12) Install ignition coil on plug, and torque fas-
teners to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs)
(13) Install ignition coil connectors.
(14) Install spark plug cables.
(15) Install air intake resonator.
(16) Install air cleaner assembly.
(17) Connect negative battery cable.
Fig. 6 IGNITION COIL R/I Ð 5.7L V-8
1 - SLIDE LOCK (SLIDE OUTWARD TO UNLOCK)
2 - SPARK PLUG CABLE (TO OPPOSITE CYLINDER BANK
SPARK PLUG)
3 - RELEASE LOCK / TAB (PUSH HERE)
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
5 - IGNITION COIL
6 - COIL MOUNTING BOLTS (2)
7 - SPARK PLUG CABLE (TO OPPOSITE CYLINDER BANK
IGNITION COIL)
9 - 204 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
Page 1429 of 2627
(15) Remove timing chain(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(16) Remove camshaft tensioner/thrust plate
assembly.
NOTE: Identify tappets to ensure installation in orig-
inal location.
(17) Remove the retainer assembly and tappets.
(18) Install a long bolt into front of camshaft to aid
in removal of the camshaft. Remove camshaft, being
careful not to damage cam bearings with the cam
lobes.
INSPECTION
(1) The cam bearings are not serviceable. Do not
attempt to replace cam bearings for any reason.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE PLUG
CAUTION: The new core hole plug must be installed
to the proper depth or camshaft damage could
develope. The plug must be installed squarely in
the bore.
(1) Install a new core hole plug at the rear of cam-
shaft, using special tool # 9048. Clean plug and apply
mopartlock and seal adhesive to the edge of the
plug, before installing. The plug must be installed to
a depth of+/-0.25mm from the end of the machined
bevel, that is the end of the bevel that is closest to
the cam bearing.
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT
(1) Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing
journals and insert the camshaft
(2) Install camshaft Tensioner plate assembly.
Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install timing chain and sprockets(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN
AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION) .
(4) Measure camshaft end play(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If not within limits
install a new thrust plate.
(5) Install the oil pump(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the oil pick up tube.
(7) Each tappet reused must be installed in the
same position from which it was removed.When
camshaft is replaced, all of the tappets must be
replaced.(8) Install the tappets and retainer assembly(Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFT-
ERS (CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install both left and right cylinder heads(Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLA-
TION) .
(10) Install pushrods
(11) Install rocker arms(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYL-
INDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
INSTALLATION).
(12) Install timing case cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install intake manifold(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(16) Install the A/C compressor, and set aside
(17) Install the generator.
(18) Install the accessory drive belt.
(19) Install the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(20) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(21) Install the battery negative cable.
(22) Refill coolant.
(23) Refill engine oil.
(24) Start engine and check for leaks.
CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pump pickup.
(4) Remove the windage tray/oil pan gasket.
(5) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the oil pump(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the timing drive(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(8) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.
(9) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
9 - 206 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)
Page 1433 of 2627
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)