check engine DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Crankshaft
Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3059 into oil
hole of crankshaft (Fig. 30).
(2) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.
(3) Lubricate the main journals with clean engine
oil. Install main bearing caps and bolts. Follow the 2
step tightening sequence, starting with No. 1 main
bearing cap.
(4) Apply a rearward axial load of 667 N (150
lbs-f) on crankshaft centerline, driving No.3 main cap
and thrust bearing against No.3 bulkhead. Repeat
procedure, driving crankshaft forward to align rear
flange of thrust bearings in a common plane. Front
face of No.1 main cap must not extend forward in
front of face of No.1 bulkhead.
(5) Install the oil pump pick-up tube and oil pan
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
INSTALLATION).
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐFRONT OIL SEAL - FRONT COVER
INSTALLED
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper from the crankshaft
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).(3) Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal surface of the cover (Fig.
31).
REMOVALÐFRONT OIL SEAL - FRONT COVER
REMOVED
(1) Remove engine front cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal surface of the cover.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATIONÐFRONT OIL SEAL ± FRONT
COVER INSTALLED
(1) Position the crankshaft front oil seal onto seal
installer special tool 6806 and C-3688 (Fig. 32).
Install seal.
(2) Install vibration damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(3) Install serpentine belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Install cooling fan and shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(5) Connect negative cable to the battery.
(6) Start engine and check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐFRONT OIL SEAL - FRONT
COVER REMOVED
(1) Position the crankshaft front oil seal onto seal
installer special tool 6806.
Fig. 30 Upper Main Bearing Removal and
Installation with Tool C-3059
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 - BEARING
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 - BEARINGFig. 31 Timing Chain Cover and Oil Seal
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - OIL SEAL
9 - 384 ENGINE 8.0LDR
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)

(2) Use tool 6761 to support timing chain cover
when installing oil seal with tool 6806 (Fig. 33),
install seal (Fig. 34).(3) Install engine front cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure does not require the removal
of the seal retainer from the engine block.
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Carefully, remove the rear seal from the
retainer. Discard the oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.
(2) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide, onto the
crankshaft.
(3) Position the oil seal onto the Seal guide, then
using Special Tool 8359 Seal Installer and C±4171
Driver Handle, Install the oil seal.
(4) The seal face surface must be countersunk into
the retainer .762±1.27mm (0.030±0.050 in.).
(5) Install the transmission.
(6) Check and verify engine oil is at correct level.
(7) Start engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 32 Timing Chain Cover and Oil Seal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3688
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6806
Fig. 33 Oil Seal, ToolsÐ6806 and 6761
1 - FRONT COVER
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6761
3 - FRONT OIL SEAL
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6806
Fig. 34 Oil Seal Installed
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6806
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6761
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 385
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
9 - 386 ENGINE 8.0LDR

(8) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location.
(9) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
(10) Check camshaft lobes for abnormal wear.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets.
(2) Install tappets in their original positions.
Ensure that the oil bleed hole (if so equipped)
faces forward.
(3) Install tappet aligning yokes. Position the yoke
retainer spider over the tappet aligning yokes (Fig.
36)Install the yoke retaining spider bolts and tighten
to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the push rods in their original location.
(5) Install the rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install lower and upper intake manifold (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(7) The cylinder head cover gasket can be used
again. Install the gasket onto the head rail.For the
left side the number tab is at the front of
engine with the number up. For the right side
the number tab is at the rear of engine with the
number up.
(8) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the air cleaner.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
(10) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(11) Road test vehicle and check for leaks.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons (Fig. 37) are elliptically turned so that
the diameter at the pin boss is less than its diameter
across the thrust face. This allows for expansion
under normal operating conditions. Under operating
temperatures, expansion forces the pin bosses away
from each other, causing the piston to assume a more
nearly round shape.
All pistons are machined to the same weight,
regardless of size, to maintain piston balance.
The piston pin rotates in the piston only and is
retained by the press interference fit of the piston
pin in the connecting rod.
The pistons have a unique dry-film lubricant coat-
ing baked onto the skirts to reduce friction. The
lubricant is particularly effective during engine
break-in, but with time, the material becomes embed-
ded into cylinder bore walls and continues to reduce
friction.
The pistons are LH and RH bank specific.
Fig. 37 Piston and Connecting RodÐ8.0L Engine
1 - FRONT I.D. TOWARDS THIS SIDE
2 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS REAR (R.H. ONLY)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10
3 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS FRONT (L.H. ONLY)
1, 3, 5, 7, 9
9 - 388 ENGINE 8.0LDR
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDUREÐPISTON FITTING
Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.
Specified clearance between the piston and the cylin-
der wall is 0.013-0.038 mm (0.0005-0.0015 inch). The
max. allowable clearance is 0.0762 mm (0.003 in.).
Piston diameter should be measured at the top of
skirt, 90É to piston pin axis. Cylinder bores should be
measured halfway down the cylinder bore and trans-
verse to the engine crankshaft center line.
Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in .00019
INCREMENTS is required (Fig. 38). If a bore gauge
is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.The
coating material is applied to the piston after the
final piston machining process. Measuring the out-
side diameter of a coated piston will not provide
accurate results. Therefore measuring the inside
diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge
isMANDATORY.. To correctly select the proper size
piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in
.00019increments is required.Piston installation into
the cylinder bore require slightly more pressure than
that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded
coating on the piston will give the appearance of a
line-to-line fit with the cylinder bore.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine from the vehicle (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and oil pump pick-up tube
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reli-
able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered
during this operation.
(5) Be sure the connecting rod and connecting rod
cap are identified with the cylinder number. Remove
connecting rod cap. Install connecting rod bolt guide
set on connecting rod bolts.
(6) Pistons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and
connecting rod assemblies, rotate crankshaft center
the connecting rod in the cylinder bore and at BDC.
Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals. DO
NOT try to remove black coating on skirt. This
is the dry film lubricant.
(7) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
CLEANING
Clean the piston and connecting rod assembly
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive
wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-
ing.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape
before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in
the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks
and/or deterioration.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check the crankshaft connecting rod journal
for excessive wear, taper and scoring.
(2) Check the cylinder block bore for out-of-round,
taper, scoring and scuffing.
(3) Be sure that compression ring gaps are stag-
gered so that neither is in line with oil ring rail gap.
(4) Before installing the ring compressor, make
sure the oil ring expander ends are butted and the
rail gaps located properly (Fig. 39).
Fig. 38 Bore Gauge
1 - BORE GAUGE
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - 2-5/16 in.
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 389
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

from the center outlet of the filter through an oil gal-
lery that channels the oil up to the tappet galleries,
which extends the entire length of block.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oil
passes through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, cylinder walls, and piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 49).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
LEAKS
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.
(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
Fig. 48 Pressure Feed Type (Gerotor) Oil PumpÐ
Typical
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - INNER ROTOR
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
9 - 394 ENGINE 8.0LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16x11/2
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 54).
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block at the
four corners.
(3) Apply small amount of MopartSilicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent at the split lines.
The split lines are between the cylinder block, the
timing chain cover and the rear crankshaft seal
assembly (Fig. 53).After the sealant is applied
you have 3 minutes to install the gasket and oil
pan.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket. The engine may have to be slightly raised
on 2WD vehicles.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts (Fig. 55). Tighten the
bolts to as shown in Oil Pan Bolts Torque Chart.(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 5/16
inch oil pan bolts. Torque these bolts as shown in Oil
Pan Bolts Torque Chart.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the engine to transmission strut.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(12) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
(13) Start engine and check for leaks.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the relief valve plug, gasket, spring
and valve (Fig. 56). Discard the gasket.
(3) Remove mounting screws and oil pump cover
(Fig. 57).
(4) Remove oil pump inner and outer rotors (Fig.
57).
(5) Inspect oil pump for wear (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSPEC-
TION).
CLEANING
Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.
Fig. 54 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
1 - 5/16º X 11¤2º BOLT
2 - DOWEL
3 - SLOT
Fig. 55 Oil Pan Bolt Location
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL FILTER
3 - STUD BOLTS
4 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 56 Oil Pressure Relief Valve
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - OIL PUMP RELIEF VALVE
3 - SPRING
4 - GASKET
5 - PLUG
9 - 398 ENGINE 8.0LDR
OIL PAN (Continued)

INSPECTION
Mating surface of the oil pump cover should be
smooth. Replace pump cover if scratched or grooved.
Lay a straightedge across the pump cover surface
(Fig. 58). If a 0.076 mm (0.003 inch) feeler gauge can
be inserted between cover and straightedge, cover
should be replaced.
Measure thickness (Fig. 59) (Fig. 60) and diameter
of rotors. If either rotor thickness measures 14.956mm (0.5876 inch) or less, or if the diameter is 82.45
mm (3.246 inches) or less, replace rotor set.
Slide outer rotor into timing chain cover pump
body. Press rotor to the side with your fingers and
measure clearance between rotor and pump body
(Fig. 61). If clearance is 0.19 mm (0.007 inch) or
more, and outer rotor is within specifications, replace
timing chain cover.
Install inner rotor into timing chain cover pump
body (Fig. 62). Inner rotor should be positioned with
chamfer up or toward engine when cover is installed.
This allows easy installation over crankshaft. If
clearance between inner and outer rotors is 0.150
mm (0.006 inch) or more, replace both rotors.
Place a straightedge across the face of the timing
chain cover pump body, between bolt holes (Fig. 63).
If a feeler gauge of 0.077 mm (0.003 inch) or more
can be inserted between rotors and the straightedge,
and the rotors are within specifications, replace tim-
ing chain cover.
Fig. 57 Oil Pump
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - INNER ROTOR
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 58 Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness
1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - STRAIGHT EDGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
Fig. 59 Measuring Outer Rotor Thickness
Fig. 60 Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 399
OIL PUMP (Continued)

(2) Insert MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, into the four corner joints
an excessive amount of sealant is not required to
ensure a leak proof seal. However, an excessive
amount of sealant may reduce the effectiveness of
the flange gasket. The sealant should be approxi-
mately 5 mm (0.2 in.) in diameter. (Fig. 70).
(3) Position the cross-over gaskets and press firmly
onto the block (Fig. 70).BE SURE THE BLOCK IS
OIL FREE..
(4) The lower intake manifold MUST be installed
within 3 minutes of sealant application. Carefully
lower intake manifold into position on the cylinder
block and heads. After intake manifold is in place,
inspect to make sure seals and gaskets are in place.
Finger start all the lower intake bolts.
(5) Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts in
sequence to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 69).
Recheck all bolts are tightened to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(6) Using a new gasket, position the upper intake
manifold onto the lower intake manifold.
(7) Finger start all bolts, alternate one side to the
other.
(8) Tighten upper intake manifold bolts in
sequence to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 68).
(9) Using a new gasket, install the throttle body
onto the upper intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to
23 N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install closed crankcase ventilation and evap-
oration control systems.
(11) Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
(12) Connect the vacuum lines.
(13) Install the coil assemblies and the ignition
wires.
(14) Connect the accelerator linkage and if so
equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-
down cables.(15) Install the fuel lines (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FIT-
TING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Using a new gasket, install the air cleaner
housing. Tighten the nuts to 11 N´m (96 in. lbs.)
torque. Install the air cleaner filter and cover.
(17) Install the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION). Position the com-
pressor brace and install the bolts. Tighten the brace
bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(18) Install the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - INSTALLATION).
Position the generator brace and install the bolts.
Tighten the brace bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(19) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(20) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(21) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(22) Start engine check for leaks.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
Engine exhaust manifolds (Fig. 72) are made of
high molybdenum ductile cast iron. A special ribbed
design helps control permanent dimensional changes
during heat cycles.
OPERATION
The exhaust manifolds collect the engine exhaust
exiting the combustion chambers, then channels the
exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes attached to the
manifolds.
Fig. 71 Intake Manifold Flange
1 - LOCATOR DOWELS
2 - INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS
3 - LOCATOR DOWELS
Fig. 72 Exhaust ManifoldÐ8.0L Engine
1 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 403
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold..
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields (Fig. 73).
(6) Remove the dipstick bracket from the exhaust
manifold (right side only).
(7)
Remove bolts attaching manifold to cylinder head.
(8) Remove manifold from the cylinder head. Dis-
card the gasket.
CLEANING
Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and mani-
fold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect manifold for cracks.
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness
with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat
within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).
INSTALLATION
(1) Using a new gasket position the engine
exhaust manifold onto the cylinder head. Install bolts
and stud bolts in the proper position. (Fig. 73)
Tighten the bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the dipstick bracket on to the exhaust
manifold (right side only).(3) Position washers and exhaust heat shields onto
the manifold stud bolts (Fig. 73). Be sure the tabs on
the heat shields are hooked over the top of the
exhaust gasket. Install the nuts and tighten to 20
N´m (175 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(8) Start engine check for leaks.
TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the serpentine belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOV-
AL).
(4) Remove fan and fan shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Unbolt A/C compressor and set on top of
engine.
(6) Remove generator, air pump, and bracket
assembly.
(7) Remove water pump (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/WATER PUMP - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove damper bolt and washer.
(9) Using Special Tool 1026 3-Jaw Puller remove
pulley/damper from the crankshaft. (Fig. 74)
(10)
Loosen oil pan bolts and remove the front oil
pan bolts that mount the pan to the timing chain cover.
(11) Remove the cover bolts.
(12) Remove timing chain cover and gasket using
extreme caution to avoid damaging oil pan gasket.
(13) Inspect surface of cover. Remove any burrs or
high spots.
INSTALLATION
(1) Be sure mating surfaces of timing chain cover
and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs.
(2) Lubricate the pump rotors using petroleum
jelly or lubriplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(3) Using a new cover gasket, carefully install tim-
ing chain cover to avoid damaging oil pan gasket.
Use a small amount of MopartSilicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at the joint between tim-
ing chain cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Finger
tighten the timing chain cover bolts at this time.
(4) Tighten timing chain cover bolts to 47 N´m (35
ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten oil pan bolts to 24 N´m (215
in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 73 8.0L Engine Exhaust ManifoldÐTypical
1 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD
2 - HEAT SHIELD
9 - 404 ENGINE 8.0LDR
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)