ESP FIAT 127 1981 2.G Workshop Manual

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Maximum run-out of driven plate linings 0.2 mm (0.008 in)

Travel of release flange, corresponding
to a pressure plate displacement of not less
than 0.067 in ~1.7 mm) 8.5 mm (0.3346 in)

Transmission
Synchromesh 1st and 2nd, Borg-Warner baulk ring type,
3rd and 4th, Porsche spring ring type

Gear ratios
First 3.910 : 1
Second 2.055 : 1
Third 1.348 : 1
Fourth 0.963 : 1
Reverse 3.615 : 1

Final drive ratio (C,L and CL) 4.071 : 1 (14/57)

Final drive ratio (Sport) 4.462 : 1 (13/58)

Overall ratios
Gears 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse
C, L and CL 15.92 8.7 5.49 3.92 14.72
Sport 17.45 9.17 6.01 4.30 16.13

Electrical system
Alternator
Type (C, L and CL) Magneti Marelli AA 108-14V-33A
Type (Sport) Lucas 18ACR-A4V-45A
Maximum output (approx) 570 watts
Maximum current (approx) 40 amps (C, L and CL) 50 amps (Sport)
Cut-in speed at 12V and 20°C (68°F) 1050 to 1150 r pm (C, L and CL)
1100 to 1200 rpm (Sport)
Field winding resistance across slip rings at 20°C (68°F) 3.4 to 3.8 ohms (C, L and CL)
3.18 to 3.22 ohms (Sport)
Direction of rotation (drive end) Clockwise
Engine/alternator drive ratio 1.8 : 1
Alternator regulator (C, L and CL models)
Type Magneti Marelli RTT 110 AB
Alternator speed for adjustment 6000 rpm
Current for thermal balance 20 amps
Regulating voltage 14.2
+0.3
–0.2 volts

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32 Carefully ease the lip of the seal onto the
spigot and secure the carrier with the bolts and
washers (photo).
33 Similarly clean the crankshaft at the timing
belt end and fit the seal and carrier. Retain by
the two bottom bolts (photo). 34 Put the timing
indicator bracket over the two top bolt holes in
the seal carrier and fit the two top bolts (photo).

Sump - refitting
35 Make sure that there are no remnants of the
old gasket on the sump flange and fit a new
gasket using a little grease to hold it in position .
Check that it is bedded down evenly all round
the flange.
36 Fit the sump to the crankcase. Put the load
spreading washers on each bolt and screw into
the crankcase (photo).
37 Tighten the bolts evenly to avoid warping the
flange.
Auxiliary shaft and seal - refitting
38 Clean the auxiliary shaft bearings and
lubricate with clean engine oil.
39 Insert the shaft into the crankcase bushes
and rotate the shaft to spread the oil (photo).
40 Lubricate the auxiliary shaft seal in its carrie r
and carefully ease the seal over the shaft spigot
(photo).
41 Fit the seal carrier retaining bolts and
washers and tighten.
Belt pulleys and tensioner - refitting
42 Fit the toothed pulley to the auxiliary shaft.
The recess in the pulley fits on the auxiliary shaf t
with the dowel on the shaft in the hole in the
pulley (photo). Fit the retaining bolt and washer
and partially tighten, as it will be necessary to
wait until the drivebelt has been fitted before
finally tightening this bolt. Alternatively, it is
possible to hold the auxiliary shaft carefully in a
vice, fit the seal and carrier to the shaft, follow ed
by the toothed pulley and its retaining bolt and
washer, and then tighten the bolt fully before
fitting the complete assembly to the block.
43 The belt tensioner bracket can now be fitted.
Clean off all traces of old gasket from the
bracket and block and use a new gasket on
assembly. Fit the retaining bolts and washers
and tighten (photo).
44 Insert the spring-loaded plunger assembly
into the tensioner bracket (photo).
45 The tensioning wheel in its carrier can now
be fitted. Put the top bolt and washer in first and
then bear down to compress the spring and fit the bottom bolt through the kidney-shaped slot.
Note that this latter bolt has an additional, large
washer against the wheel carrier. Temporarily
tighten the two bolts they will have to be
retightened after the belt has been fitted (photo).

46 If the key had previously been removed from
the pulley end of the crankshaft, clean the key
slot and refit the key. Then slide on the bevelled
washer, making sure that the bevel is on the
side away from the crankcase (photo).
47 Refit the crankshaft toothed pulley (photo).
Then the V-belt pulley can be refitted together
with its retaining nut and washer. Final
tightening of this nut can wait until the flywheel
has been fitted, when a 'gag' can be fitted to the
flywheel to hold the crankshaft whilst tightening
the nut - see Chapter 1, photo 23.2A.

Cylinder head and valve gear-reassembly

48 It is assumed that the valves will have
already been examined and renovated as
described in Chapter 1, Section 31. Follow the
procedure given in Chapter 1, Section 51 to
reassemble the valves, but note that new oil
seals should be fitted to this engine when the
valves have been inserted in the guides and
before the springs are fitted (photos).
49 Each tappet bucket contains a shim in the
head which is used to control the valve
clearance. Before assembling the buckets to
their valves, prise out each shim and take a note
of the thickness. This is etched on the lower face
of the shim and indicates the thickness in
millimetres to two decimal places. If the number
has worn off, use a micrometer to check the
shim thickness. Make a table showing each
valve by number and the thickness of shim on
assembly. Reassemble each shim to its bucket
and after lubricating with clean engine oil fit the
buckets to their respective valves (photos).
50 Lubricate the two camshaft bearings in the
cylinder head and carefully thread the camshaft
through the driving end hole and lower it onto its
bearings. The cams will rest on the tappet
buckets and the camshaft should now be turned
so that the two cams over No. 1 cylinder (driving
end) are pointing upwards (compression/firing
stroke). This is to reduce the bending load on
the camshaft as the two bearing halves are
being tightened down (photo).
51 Lubricate the camshaft bearing halves and fit
them to their respective studs in the head. Put
the steel bridge plates in position and fit the
washers and nuts (photo).
52 Tighten the four nuts a little at a time