charging FIAT 500 1969 1.G Workshop Manual

CHAPTER 11
THE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
11:1 Description
11:2 Battery
11:3 The generator
11:4 The starter
11:5 The control box
1 1 : 6 Fuses
1 1 : 7 Flasher unit
11:1 Description
All models covered by this manual have 12 volts
electrical systems in which the negative battery terminal
is earthed. There are three units in the regulator box to
control the charging circuit; a cut-out, a current regulator
and a voltage regulator. These are adjustable but it must
be stressed that accurate moving coil meters are required
when checking or altering the settings. Cheap and
unreliable instruments will make accurate adjustments
impossible.
There are wiring diagrams in Technical Data at the end
of this manual to enable those with electrical experience
to trace and correct wiring faults.
For t h e U.K. Market the headlamps are of the double
filament dipping renewable bulb type with adjustments
for individual beam settings.
The battery is located in the front compartment
forward of the petrol tank and the fuses to the rear o f the
petrol tank.
Detailed instructions for servicing the electrical equip-
ment will be found in this chapter, but it must be pointed
out that it is not sensible to try to repair that which is
seriously defective, electrically or mechanically. Such
equipment should be replaced by new units which can
be obtained on an exchange basis.
F500111
11 :8 Windscreen wipers
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
11:10 Panel and warning lights
11:11 The horn
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
1 1 : 1 3 Fault diagnosis
11.2 The battery
This of the 12-volt lead/acid type and has to meet
heavy demands for current particularly in the winter. To
maintain the performance of the battery at its maximum
it is essential to carry out the following operations.
Keep the top of the battery and surrounding parts dry
and clean, as dampness can cause leakage between the
securing clamps and the battery terminals. Clean off any
corrosion from the metal parts of the battery mounting
with diluted ammonia and paint them with an anti-
sulphuric paint. If the terminal posts are corroded,
remove the cables and clean w i t h diluted ammonia.
Smear the posts w i t h petroleum jelly before remaking the
connections and fit the terminals securely. High electrical
resistance due to corrosion at the terminal posts is often
responsible for lack of sufficient current to operate the
starter motor.
Ensure t h a t the filler plugs are in good condition and
show no signs of cracks. This may cause leakage of
electrolyte and consequent corrosion. Test the condition
of the cells after topping-up the electrolyte level with
distilled water to just above the tops of the separators as
shown in FIG 11 :2 . Never add neat acid. If it is
necessary to make a new electrolyte due to loss by
spillage add sulphuric acid to the
distilled water.
It is highly dangerous to add water to acid.

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

Checking cut-out:
1 Closing voltage:
This test should be carried out at a temperature of
25°±10°C and the regulator should be connected to a
generator test bed as shown in FIG 11:7. The unit should
be operated under no load conditions for between 15 -
18 minutes with the cover installed and w i t h a voltage of
between 16.5 volts for an initial operating temperature of
15-20°C or 15 volts for an initial operating temperature
of 20-35°C. This will enable thermal stabilization of the
unit to be obtained so that the temperature of both the
cut-out shunt windings and the bymetallic springs
increase due to the heat developed by the windings and
reaches the normal operating setting.
Once thermal stabilization has been obtained the
generator should be restarted and the speed gradually
increased so that immediately the test lamp starts to
glow the voltmeter reading may be taken. This will be
the value of the cut-out contact closing voltage.
2 Reverse current:
This check should be carried out at a temperature range
of between 25°±10°C and it is recommended that it is
performed as soon as possible after the closing voltage
test so that the thermal stabilization remains unaltered.
Connect the regulator as shown in FIG 11:8 and
gradually speed up the generator to 4500 rev/min for
approximately 5 minutes. Ensure that the voltmeter reads
at least 14.5 volts and then gradually reduce the generator
speed carefully watching the movement of the ammeter
needle which should at first indicate a charging current
and then gradually move to zero and then to the other side
of the scale to indicate reverse current value. If the
generator speed is reduced further the reverse current
reading will increase to a given value and then suddenly
fall to zero which will indicate that the cut-out contact
has opened. This limit indicates the maximum reverse
current value which should not, under any circumstances,
exceed 16 amps.
During this test, to obtain the maximum reverse
current possible the reduction in generator speed must
not take more than 10 seconds otherwise the battery
voltage will drop excessively.
Checking voltage regulator:
This test should be carried out w i t h the regulator under
half load and at a temperature of 50°± 3°C. Connect the
regulator as shown in FIG 11:9 and operate the regulator
for approximately 30 minutes by supplying a current half
that of regulated current which is 1 6 ±5 amp. Once the
regulator has been brought to the required temperature
stop the generator and start it again, gradually increasing
the speed to a maximum of 4500 rev/min. Adjust the
rheostat for a generator output corresponding to half load
current of 8 ± 2 amps. When this generator output has
been set the voltage should be 14.2± .3 volts.
Checking current regulator:
Leave the regulator connected as shown in
FIG 11 :10
and this test must be carried out immediately after testing
the half load regulated voltage of the voltage regulator
when connected to a battery. Check that the ammeter
fitted will accommodate a 40 amp deflection: if not a
F500117
FIG 11 :9 Wiring diagram for checking the current and
voltage regulators
Key to Fig 11:9 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
A Ammeter, 20 A scale (to check voltage regulator) and 40 A
scale (to check current regulator)
B Battery, 50 Ah, fully chargedR Rheostat, 25 A. 3
FIG 11 :10 Wiring diagram for setting the cut-out relay
Key to Fig 11 :10 B 2 V battery B 20 V batteryA Ammeter, 20 A scale ( 1 % accuracy) V Voltmeter, 20 V
scale (0.5% accuracy), directly connected to terminals 31—51
P Potentiometer for voltage adjustment, having such a capacity
that the current draw of the cut-out shunt winding does not
cause sensible variations in the voltage readings (voltmeter
under no load) S Test lamp, with 2 V, 3 W bulb, to signal
opening and closing of contacts R Rheostat, 4 12
AR Voltage drop resistor, suitable to allow turning on of A withT open and cut-out contacts open
Setting of instruments before inserting the unit: P At
minimum (voltmeter reads zero) T Open R All inserted
(max. resistance) T Open
FIG 11:11 Wiring diagram for setting the voltage and
current regulators
Key to Fig 11 :11 GR Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
G Generator D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) A Ammeter, 20 Amp. scale (for voltage regulator),
or 40 Amp. scale (for current regulator) R Rheostat, 25
Amps., 3 Ohms B 50 Amp/h battery, fully charged I Switch

Checking cut-out:
1 Closing voltage:
This test should be carried out at a temperature of
25°±10°C and the regulator should be connected to a
generator test bed as shown in FIG 11:7. The unit should
be operated under no load conditions for between 15 -
18 minutes with the cover installed and w i t h a voltage of
between 16.5 volts for an initial operating temperature of
15-20°C or 15 volts for an initial operating temperature
of 20-35°C. This will enable thermal stabilization of the
unit to be obtained so that the temperature of both the
cut-out shunt windings and the bymetallic springs
increase due to the heat developed by the windings and
reaches the normal operating setting.
Once thermal stabilization has been obtained the
generator should be restarted and the speed gradually
increased so that immediately the test lamp starts to
glow the voltmeter reading may be taken. This will be
the value of the cut-out contact closing voltage.
2 Reverse current:
This check should be carried out at a temperature range
of between 25°±10°C and it is recommended that it is
performed as soon as possible after the closing voltage
test so that the thermal stabilization remains unaltered.
Connect the regulator as shown in FIG 11:8 and
gradually speed up the generator to 4500 rev/min for
approximately 5 minutes. Ensure that the voltmeter reads
at least 14.5 volts and then gradually reduce the generator
speed carefully watching the movement of the ammeter
needle which should at first indicate a charging current
and then gradually move to zero and then to the other side
of the scale to indicate reverse current value. If the
generator speed is reduced further the reverse current
reading will increase to a given value and then suddenly
fall to zero which will indicate that the cut-out contact
has opened. This limit indicates the maximum reverse
current value which should not, under any circumstances,
exceed 16 amps.
During this test, to obtain the maximum reverse
current possible the reduction in generator speed must
not take more than 10 seconds otherwise the battery
voltage will drop excessively.
Checking voltage regulator:
This test should be carried out w i t h the regulator under
half load and at a temperature of 50°± 3°C. Connect the
regulator as shown in FIG 11:9 and operate the regulator
for approximately 30 minutes by supplying a current half
that of regulated current which is 1 6 ±5 amp. Once the
regulator has been brought to the required temperature
stop the generator and start it again, gradually increasing
the speed to a maximum of 4500 rev/min. Adjust the
rheostat for a generator output corresponding to half load
current of 8 ± 2 amps. When this generator output has
been set the voltage should be 14.2± .3 volts.
Checking current regulator:
Leave the regulator connected as shown in
FIG 11 :10
and this test must be carried out immediately after testing
the half load regulated voltage of the voltage regulator
when connected to a battery. Check that the ammeter
fitted will accommodate a 40 amp deflection: if not a
F500117
FIG 11 :9 Wiring diagram for checking the current and
voltage regulators
Key to Fig 11:9 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
A Ammeter, 20 A scale (to check voltage regulator) and 40 A
scale (to check current regulator)
B Battery, 50 Ah, fully chargedR Rheostat, 25 A. 3
FIG 11 :10 Wiring diagram for setting the cut-out relay
Key to Fig 11 :10 B 2 V battery B 20 V batteryA Ammeter, 20 A scale ( 1 % accuracy) V Voltmeter, 20 V
scale (0.5% accuracy), directly connected to terminals 31—51
P Potentiometer for voltage adjustment, having such a capacity
that the current draw of the cut-out shunt winding does not
cause sensible variations in the voltage readings (voltmeter
under no load) S Test lamp, with 2 V, 3 W bulb, to signal
opening and closing of contacts R Rheostat, 4 12
AR Voltage drop resistor, suitable to allow turning on of A withT open and cut-out contacts open
Setting of instruments before inserting the unit: P At
minimum (voltmeter reads zero) T Open R All inserted
(max. resistance) T Open
FIG 11:11 Wiring diagram for setting the voltage and
current regulators
Key to Fig 11 :11 GR Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
G Generator D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) A Ammeter, 20 Amp. scale (for voltage regulator),
or 40 Amp. scale (for current regulator) R Rheostat, 25
Amps., 3 Ohms B 50 Amp/h battery, fully charged I Switch

FIG 11:18 Replacement of bulb from inside f r o n tcompartment
Key to Fig 11 :18 1 Double-filament bulb 2 Bulbholder
3 Side direction indicator light 4 Bulbholder shield
PARKING LAMP
LENS
SIDE DIRECTIONINDICATOR
FIG 11 :19 Disassembling front parking and direction
indicator lamp
Replacement of the bulb is achieved from inside the front
compartment by pulling down the upper lug of the
rubber protection cap at the rear of t h e headlight unit and
freeing the bulb holder. Pull up the bulb holder to
reflector fastener spring and pull out the bulb holder
complete and replace the bulb as necessary.
Beam setting:
Accurate setting is best left to a service station
equipped with the necessary equipment. The main beams
must be set parallel to the road surface or in accordance
with local regulations. Adjustment is made by turning
the top screw 1 as indicated in FIG 11:17 for the
vertical setting and the lower screw 2 for the horizontal
setting.
122
FIG 11 : 20 Disassembling tail parking, stop, direction
indicator lamp and reflector lens REFLECTOR LENS PARKING A N D
STOP LAMP INDICATOR LAMP
DIRECTION
LENSLENS
SCREWS
Lamps light when switched on but gradually fade:
Check the battery as it is incapable of supplying
current for any length of time. Front parking and direction indicator lamp:
To replace the double filament bulb, release the screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 :19 and remove the bulb from its bayonet holder. Where
the parking lamp is in the headlamp unit the bulbholder
can be pulled out inside the front compartment.
Rear parking, direction indicator, stop lamps and
reflector lens:
To renew any of the t w o bulbs remove the t w o screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 : 2 0. Bulbs are fixed by bayonet couplings.
Side direction indicator lamps:
To replace the 2.5W bulb slide off the bulb holder
from the rubber socket located as shown in FIG 11 :19.
The bulb is secured by a bayonet coupling.
Number plate lamp:
To replace the bayonet coupled 5W bulb remove the
lens and light cap mounting screws as shown in FIG
11:21.
Lamps give insufficient light:
Test the state of charge of the battery and recharge if it
is necessary from an independent supply. Check the
setting of the lamps. If the bulbs have darkened through
age fit new ones.
Lamps burn out frequently:
If this is accompanied by a need for frequent topping-
up of the battery and high hydrometer readings, check
the charging rate with an ammeter when the car is
running. This should be around 3 to 4 amps. A reading in
excess of this calls for adjustment of the regulator.

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty