Drivebelt FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Roadside repairs 0.7
I Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct | whatever made the battery go fiat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

t

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system (s not working property (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator Itself faulty).

3

The battery Itself is at fault (ehctrotyte low, or battery worn out).
When jump-starling a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
• Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
• Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
• Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.
Jump starting • Make sure that the booster battery Is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
• If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
• Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK. In the case of automatic transmission).
Make sure that the lump leads will not come into contact with the fan. drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

ia.2 Servicing specifications - petrol models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end ot Weekly checks on page 0*17
Capacities Engine oil (including filter) 1108 cc engine 3.47 litres 1242 cc (8-valvB) engine 3.74 litres 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 2.80 litres Cooling system 4,6 litres
Manual transmission 5-spee d 1.65 litres 6-spee d 1.87 litres Automatic transmission 1.98 litres Power-assisted steering 0.65 Irtres Fuel tank 47 litres Washer reservoir Wllhouthesdllghl washers 2.5 litres With headlight washers 7.0 litres
Engine Olf niter - Champion F107 Auxiliary drivebelt tension 5.0 mm deflection midway between pulleys Valve clearances - engine cold: Inlet Exhaust 1108 cc and 1242 cc (single-point petrol injection) 0.40±0.05mm 0.50±0.05mm 1242 cc (multi-point petrol Injection 0.40 1 0.05 mm 0.45 1 0.05 mm
Cooling system Antifreeze mixture (50% antifreeze) Protection down to -35"C Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system Engine idle speed . 900 * 50 rpm CO 0.35 maximum Air filter element: 1108 cc engine with 6-speed transmission -... Champion U647 1108 cc engine (Easl Europe) Champion U648 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion U647 1242
CO
engine (75.85 and Sporting models) Champion U649 Fuel filler: Up to September 1995 October 1995 onwards 1108 cc engine Champion L213 Champion L225 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion L213 Champion 1225 1242 cc engine {75 models) Champion L203 Champion L225
Ignition system Ignition liming Refer to Chapter 58 Spark plugs: Type Gap* 1108 cc and 1242 cc (6-valve) engines Champion RC9YCC 0.9 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine ,... Champion RA4HCC 0.8 mm The spark plug gap quoted Is Diet recommenced by Champion for their specined plugs listed above. If spar* plugs of any other type ere to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer's recommendations. Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness 15 mm Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm itrfft Automatic transmission lluld drain plug 25 10 Automatic transmission fluid sump bolts 4 3 Manual transmission oil drain plug: Stage 1 12 9 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 180" Manual transmission oil filler plug 40 30 Roadwheel bolts 86 83 Spark plugs 27 20 Sump drain plug 10 7

Every 10 000 miles - petrol models ia.q
10 Pollen filter renewal
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located under the engine bulkhead cover panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both svindscreen wiper arms. 3 Unclip the rubber
seal
from the relevant end of
the
top of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and pull out the fasteners securing the bulkhead cover panel in position. Release the cover panel Irom the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from its housing (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, securing it in position with Ihe fasteners, and seat the rubber seal on
the
bulkhead.
11 Idle speed and ^
CO
content check J and adjustment ^
1 The idle speed is controlled by the ECU via a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body and is not adjustable. 2 The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda sensor, which is mounted in the exhaust down pipe. The ECU then uses this information to modify the injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio.
3 Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
12 Steering and ^ suspension check
front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steehng rack-and-pinion gaiters for spirts, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Qrasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation Is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
12.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant tum the steering wheel back and forth about sn eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any. lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, ihe body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
13 Auxiliary drivebelt{s) check % and renewal ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special tool to cooectfyset the drivebelt tension. If access to ibis equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one. two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an Individual drivebelt.
Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up

1B»1
Chapter
1
Part B:
Routine maintenance & servicing - diesel models
Contents
Air filter renewal 13 Auxiliary drivebelt(s) check and renewal 16 Brake fluid renewal 2d Brake warning lamp operation check 5 Clutch adjustment check 17 Coolant renewal 27 Drtv«shaft gaiter check 10 Emissions control systems check 25
Engage
oil and filter renewal 3 Exhaust system check 9 Front brake pad check 6
Fuel
fitter renewal 12 Fuel Filter water draining 4 Headlight beam adjustment 20
Hinge and lock lubrication 19 Hose and fluid leak check 6 Idle speed check and adjustmenl 11 Introduction ... 1 Manual transmission oil level check 22 Manual transmission oil renewal - 26 Pollen filter renewal 14 Rear brake shoe check 23 Regular maintenance 2 Road test 21 Steering and suspension check 15 Timing belt renewal 24 Underbody sealant check 7 Valve clearance check and adjustment 16
^m
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, sutable for % Fairly easy, suitable FaHycifficult, i'. Difficult, suitable fa Very difficult, novice with irttte % for beginner with suitable for competent experienced DIY
1
suitable for expert DIY * or professional jQ experience some experience DIY mechanic mechanic 1
suitable for expert DIY * or professional jQ

1B.2
Servicing specifications - diesel models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0*17
Capacities Engine oil (including filter) Non-turbo diesei engine 4.95 litres Turbo diesel engine 4.84 litres Cooling system 7.2 litres
Manual transmission Non-turbo diesel engine 2.37 litres Turbo diesei engine t .98 litres Power-assisted steering 0.65 litres
Fuel tank 47 litres Washer reservoir Without headlight washers 2.5 litres With headlight washers 7.0 litres
Engine Oil fitter Engine Idle speed: Non-turbo diesel engine Turbo diesel engine Auxiliary drivebelt tension ...... Valve clearances • engine cold: Inlet Exhaust
Champion C112
8l0«40rpm 900 ± 20 rpm 5.0 mm deflection midway between pulleys
0.30 mm * 0.05 mm 0.35 mm ± 0.05 mm
Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: 50% antifreeze Protection down to-35°C Note: Refer to antifreeze manufactuivr for latest recommendations.
Fuel system Air filter element: Non-turbo diesel engine (with Lucas/CAV Injection) Champion U611 Turbo diesel engine (with Bosch Injection) Champion U579 Fuel filter Champion L120
Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness 1-5 mm Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Tyre pressures See end of Weekly checks on page 0*18
Torque wrench settings Fuel filter bracket to body ..... « Fuel filter to bracket i........ Manual transmission oil drain plug: Non-turbo diesel engine: Stage 1 Stage 2 Turbo diesel engine Manual transmission oil filler plug Roadwheel bolts
Nm Ibfft 18 13 24 18
12 9 Angle-tighten a further 180® 46 34 46 34

ib-io Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
7 With the car standing on Its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very hide. If any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-plnion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod, Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective Internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.
9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock] absorber may be checked by bouncing 0*1 vehicle at each comer. Generally speaking. th»| body will return to its normal position and 8top| after being depressed. If It rises and returns cn| a rebound, the suspension strut/shocH absorber is probably suspect. Examine also* the suspension strut/shock absorber uppeij and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
18 Auxiliary drivebeltfs) % check and renewal
Note: Fiat specify the use of a spec/a/ toot to correctly set the drivebelt fens/on. if access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described beiow. If the method described Is used, the tension should be checked using the spec/a/ too! at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one, two or three auxiliary drivebeits may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an individual drivebelt. Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up the Iront of the car and support it securely on exie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Remove the right-hand wheel. 5 Remove the Inner cover(s) from under the right-hand wheelarch for access to the right-hand side of the engine. 6 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the auxiliary drivebelt(s) can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt: check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and
16.10a Loosening the alternator drivebelt adjustment bolt
separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear Is visible, the bell should be renewed, 7 If the condition of the belt Is satisfactory, check tho drivebelt tension as described below.
Renewal
Alternator drivebelt 8 On models with air conditioning, remove the compressor drivebelt as described below, 9 Unclip and remove the upper timing belt cover, then unbolt end remove the lower timing belt cover. 10 Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment lockbolt then unscrew the adjustment bolt to move the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebelt may be slipped off the alternator, crankshaft, and, on models with air con-ditioning, the Idler pulley (see Illustrations), 11 When renewing a drivebelt. ensure that the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys then tighten the adjustment bolt to take up any slsck In the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Power steering pump drivebelt
12 Remove the alternator drivebelt as described previously. 13 Slacken the bolts securing the power steering pump to the mounting bracket. 14 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until ail the tension Is removed from the dnvebelt. 15 Undo the bolts and remove the pulley guard from the power steering pump then slip the drivebelt off the pulleys,
16.10b Removing the drivebelt from the alternator pulley
18 Ensuring that the correct type of dnveberti^ used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn
the
adjusting bolt to just take up the slack in thi j belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described! below. Air conditioning compressor drivebelt 17 Slacken the bolts securing the adjustment j pulley bracket to the engine. 18 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and] turn the adjusting bolt until ell the tension is | removed from the drivebelt. then slip the be& | off the pulleys. 19 Ensuring that the correct type of drivebeX; is used, fit ihe belt around the pulleys and turn | the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack
m
] the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below.
Tensioning 20 Correct tensioning of the belt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overiightenlng. as this can cause wear in the alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor bearings. Note: Flat recommend use of their spec's/ tensioning tool however the following procedure will set the tension correctly. 21 The belt(s) should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys. To adjust, tighten or loosen the relevant adjustment bolt until the tension is correct. Fully tighten the pivot and adjustment lockbotts. Repeat this procedure for any remaining drivebeits removed for access. 22 Refit the lower timing belt cover end tighten the mounting bolts. 23 Refit the upper timing belt cover and secure with the clips. 24 Refit the inner cover and wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, then reconnect the battery negative terminal.
17 Clutch adjustment check
Refer lo Chapter 6, Section 2.

2A«1
Chapter 2 Part A:
SOHC (8-valve) petrol
engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Auxiliary drivebelts • removal and refitting See Chapter 1A Gamstaft cover - removal and refitting 6 Camshaft oil seal - renewal 7 Camshaft • removal and refitting See Chapter 20 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 8 Cylinder compression test 3 Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul See Chapter 20 Cylinder head - remove] and refitting 9 Engine mountings - Inspection and renewal 11 Engine oil and filter • renewal See Chapter 1A
Degrees of difficulty
Engine oil level check See Weekiy checks Flywheel/driveplate • removal, inspection and refitting 10 General Information 1 Location of TOC on No 1 cylinder 2 Oil pump and pick-up tube - removal, inspection and refitting 13 Sump • removal and refitting 12 Timing belt and covers • removal and refitting .. 4 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting 5 Vafve clearance check and adjustment See Chapter 1A
Easy, suitable (or twics with little |g experience ^
Fairty easy, suitable jk for beginner with & some experience ^
Fatrty difficult, ^ suitable for competent ^ CKYmechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced DIY « mechanic ^
Veiy difficult, ^ aiitabte for expert DIY « or professional
Specifications
General Engine code:' 1108 cc engine (55 models): Up to May 1997 176.A6.000 May 1d97 onwards • . 176.B2.000 1242 cc engine (60 models): Up to May 1997 176.B1.000 May 1997 onward 176.B4.000 1242 cc engine (75 modete) 176.A8.000
•Note:
See Vehicle Identification for the location of code marking on the engine. 8cre: 11O0OC engine 70.0 mm 1242 cc engine 70.8 mm Stroke: 1108 cc engine 72.0 mm 1242 cc engine 78.86 mm Compression ratio: 1108 cc engine 9.6:1 1242 cc engine with single-point injection 9.6:1 1242 cc engine with multi-point injection 9.8:1 Rrlng order 1-3-4-2
No 1
cylinder location Timing belt end of engine
TnUng
belt tension See text
Lubrication system
Oil
pump type By-rotor driven from front of crankshaft Outer rotor-to-housing clearance 0.080to0.186mm
Axial
clearance 0.025 to 0.056 mm

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Torque wrench settings Nm
IM
ft Camshaft cover 8 6 Camshaft sprocket 70 52 Cylinder head; Stage 1 30 22 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 90° Siege 3 Angle-tighten a further 90B Crankshaft sprocket centre bott 100 74 Engine mounting bolt: M10X1.25 69 44 MB 25 18 Engine mounting nut (M10x 1.25) 60 44 Flywheet/driveplate 44 32 Sump 10 7 Timing belt tensJoner 28 21
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided Into four Parts: A. 8. C and D. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle are described in Part A. SOHC (8-valve) petrol engines, Part B. DOHC (18-valve) petrol engines and Part C, diesel engines. Part 0 covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, 9 and C, the assumption Is made lhat the engine is Installed in the vehicle, with sll ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling Information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified by their capacities. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, is given in the Specifications. The engines covered In this Part of Chapter 2 are water-cooled, single overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder units, with cast Iron cylinder Mocks and aluminium-alloy cylinder heads. All are mounted transversely at the front ot the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine, The cylinder head carries the camshaft which is driven by a toothed timing belt and runs In three bearings. It also houses the inlet and exhaust valves, which are closed by single coil springs, and which run in guides pressed Into the cylinder head. The camshaft actuates the vatves directly via cam followers mounted in the cylinder head. Adjustment of the valve clearances is by means of shims located on top of the followers. The cylinder head contains Integral oitways which supply and lubricate the tappets. The crankshafl Is supported by five main bearings, and endftoat is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted to the upper section of the centre main bearing.
Engine coolant is circulated by 8 pump, driven by the timing belt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from ihe front of the crankshaft. Oil Is drawn from the sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, It is distributed to the cylinder head, where It lubricates the camshaft journals and tappets, and also to the crankcase, where il lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big and smell-ends, gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. On 1242 cc engines, oil jets are fitted lo the base of each cylinder bore -these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to Improve cooling.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car a) Compression pressure - testing b) Auxiliary drivebelt - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 1A) c) Vatve clearances - checking and adjustment (refer to Chapter I A) d) Camshaft cover - removal and refitting e) Timing belt and covens - removal and refitting f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' h) Camshaft and cam followers • removal and refitting' t) Camshaft oil seal - renews/ j) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal k) Flywheel/dnvepfate • removal, inspection and refitting l) Engine mountings - inspection and renewal m)Sump - removal and refitting n) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly
•
removai. inspection and refitting *Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed In Chapter SO, with details of camshaft and cam follower removal. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described In Chapter 2D.
2 Location of
TDC
on % No
1
cylinder
General Information 1 The camshaft Is driven by the crankshaft, by means of sprockets and a timing belt. Both sprockets rotate In phase with each other and this provides the correct valve timing as the engine rotates. When (he liming belt is removed during servioing or repair, it Is possible for the camshaft and crankshaft to rotate Independently of each other and the correct valve timing Is then lost. 2 The design of the engines covered In this Chapter are such lhat potentially damaging piston-to-valve contact may occur if the camshaft is rotated when any of the pistons are stationary at, or near, the top of their stroke. 3 For this reason it is important lhat Ihe correct phasing between the camshaft and crankshaft is preserved whilst the timing belt Is off the engine. This is achieved by setting the engine In a reference position (known as Top Dead Centre or TDC) before the timing belt Is removed and then preventing the camshaft and crankshaft from rotating until the belt is refitted. Similarly, if ths engine has been dismantled for overhaul, the engine can be set to TOC during reassembly to ensure that Ihe correct shaft phasing is restored. 4 TDC is the highest point In the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC at Ihe end of the compression stroke and again at the end of the exhaust stroke. However, for the purpose of timing the ongine. TDC refers to the position of No 1 piston at the end of Its compression stroke. On ail engines In this manual, No 1 piston (and cylinder) Is at the timing belt end of the engine. 5 The camshaft sprocket Is equipped with a marking which, when aligned with a reference marking on the cylinder head, indicates that the camshaft is correctly positioned for cyl-inder No 1 al TDC on its compression stroke.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
2.11 Unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolts
6 Itae crankshaft sprocket Is also equipped •nth a timing mark - when this is aligned with 3relarence marking on the oil pump cover.
Hie
engine is set with cylinders No 1 and 4 at
TDC.
Note that it is the camshaft positioning that determines whether a cylinder is on its comcression or exhaust stroke.

Location
of TDC on cylinder No 1 7 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Chapter 4A or 4B. Remove the
spark
plug from No 1 cylinder as described in Chapter 1A. 8 Firmly apply the handbrake, then |ack up
the
front of the car and support it securely on iiia stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). 9 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 1A. 10 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Mole the bolt located at the bottom of the
coven
this can be easily overlooked. 11 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see {lustration). 12 Turn Ihe engine in its normal direction of rotation (using a socket or spanner on Ihe crankshaft sprocket centre bolt) until pressure an be felt at No
1
cylinder spark plug hole.
1 flfliyflg^ Remove all four spark plugs; "••"•1 this will make the engine HlNTl easier to turn; refer to Chapter 1A for details.
13 Continue turning the engine until the crahaft sprocket TDC timing mark is aligned with the mark on the cylinder head and the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the mark on the oil pump cover (see ilustrations). 14 The engine is now set at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression.
3 Cylinder compression test t ^
1 When engine performance Is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to tne ignition or fuei systems, a compression isst can provide diagnostic clues as to the
2.13a Camshaft sprocket and cylinder head TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned -shown with timing belt removed engine's condition. II the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fufly charged, and all the spark plugs must be removed (Chapter 1A). The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by dis-connecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition coils. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cyl-inder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred, 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the lest on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any excessive difference indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is very low. carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear Is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a biown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
2.13b Crankshaft sprocket and oil pump cover TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned
than the others and Ihe engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition LT wiring plug.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal and refitting ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special timing belt fens/on measuring toot to correctly set tho timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. It the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known fo be correct. Refer to a Fiat dealer foradvSce.
General information 1 The function of the timing belt is to drive Ihe camshaft and coolant pump. Should the belt slip or break In service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valvo contact will occur, resulting in serious engine damage, 2 The timing belt should be renewed ai the specified intervals (see Chapter 1A), or earlier if it is contaminated with oil. or if it is at all noisy in operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear). 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it Is a wise precaution to check the condition of the coolant pump at the same time (check for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fall.
Removal 4 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front road wheel. 5 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 46. 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) and the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A.
2A

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.7 Removing the timing belt cover bottom bolt
7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom of the cover, this can easily be overlooked (see illustration), 8 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see illustration). 9 Set the engine al TDC on No 1 cylinder as described in Section 2. 10 Release the nut on the timing belt tensioner, move the lensloner pulley away from the belt and retighten the nut to hold the pulley In the retracted position (see illustration). 11 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the bell off the sprockets-Note that the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated whilst the belt Is removed. 12 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine ts undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of Its apparent condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing compared with the cost of repairs, should the belt break in sen/ice. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it. Wash down the engine timing belt area and alt related components, to remove all traces of oil.
Refitting 13 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that Ihe tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley as described In Section 5. 14 When refitting the new belt, make sure that the sprocket liming marks ore still In alignment and fit the belt so that the arrows on the belt point in the direction of engine rotation, and the lines of the belt coincide with the sprocket marks. 15 Engage the timing belt wilh the crankshaft sprocket first, then place it around the coolant pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket (see illustration). Finally slip the bell around the tensioner pulley.
II
4.8 Removing the crankshaft pulley
16 Refease the tensioner nut and Insert the laws of a pair of right-angled clmilp pliers (or similar Into the two holes on the front face of the tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley anticlockwise against the belt until the belt is quite taut. Check lhat the sprocket timing marks have not moved out of alignment. 17 Maintain the effort apptied to the tensioner pulley, then tighten the retaining nut. 18 Turn the crankshaft through two complete turns in the normal direction ot rotation and check that when the centre of (he longest run of the belt Is gripped between finger and thumb It can Just be twisted through 90°. 19 If the belt appears too be too slack or too fight, slacken the tensioner nut and repeat steps 16 to 18 until the correct tension is achieved. Caution: The above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension. The tension must be checked accurately by a Flat dealer using specialised checking equipment, at the earliest opportunity. 20 Refit the timing belt cover, the crankshaft pulley, auxiliary drivebelt(s>, spark plugs and the air cleaner/ducting. Adjust the tension of the auxiliary drivebelt(sl as described In Chapter 1A. 21 Refit the front wheel and lower the car to the ground.
5 Timing belt tensioner % and sprockets - removal, ^ Inspection and refitting ^
Timing beit tensioner
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described m Chapter 4A or 48, 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebeltfs) as descnbed In Chapter 1A. 4 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket, 5 Unbolt and remove the timing bolt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom ot the cover, this can easily be overlooked.
4.10 Releasing the timing belt tensioner nut
4.15 Fitting the timing belt
6 Set the engine at TDC on No 1 cylinder as described In Section 2, 7 Loosen the nut on the timing belt tension* and move the tensioner pulley away from the belt (see Illustration), Keep the belt engaged with the sprockets using a cable-tie or string. 8 Completely unscrew the nut and slide Ihe tensioner off Ihe mounting stud. Inspection 9 Wipe the tensioner clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the tensioner pulley on Its hub by hono. Stiff movement or excessive freeplay is w indication of severe wean the tensioner Is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed. Refitting 10 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut.
S.7 Timing bell tensioner retaining nut (arrowed) - shown with timing belt removed