charging FIAT PUNTO 1996 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Page 4 of 225


Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and associated systems SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A«1 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B«1 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C«1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D«1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3»1 Fuel system - single-point petrol injection models Page 4A«1 Fuel system - multi-point petrol injection models Page 4B«1 Fuel system - diesel models Page 4C»1 Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4D*1 Starting and charging systems Page SA«1 Ignition system - petrol models Page SB«1 Preheating system - diesel models Page 5C>1
Transmission Clutch Page 6»1 Manual transmission Page 7A«1 Automatic transmission Page 7B*1 Driveshafts Page 8*1
Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10-1
Body equipment Bodywork, trim and Fittings Page 11«1 Body electrical systems Page 12*1
Wiring diagrams Page 12»13
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF«1 Conversion factors Page REF*2 Buying spare parts Page REF»3 Vehicle identification Page REF«3 General repair procedures Page REF«4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF»5 Disconnecting the battery Page REF«5 Tools and working facilities Page REF-6 MOT test checks Page REF»8 Fault finding Page REF»12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF»20
index Page REF»24
expert22 rjijr http://rutracker.org

Page 8 of 225


Roadside repairs 0.7
I Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct | whatever made the battery go fiat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

t

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system (s not working property (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator Itself faulty).

3

The battery Itself is at fault (ehctrotyte low, or battery worn out).
When jump-starling a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
• Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
• Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
• Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.
Jump starting • Make sure that the booster battery Is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
• If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
• Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK. In the case of automatic transmission).
Make sure that the lump leads will not come into contact with the fan. drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Page 25 of 225


ia«6 Component location - petrol models
Rear underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)
1 Fuel
tank
2
Exhaust
tailpipe
and
silencer 3
Rear axle
4 Coll
springs
5
Rear
anti-mil
bar
6
Handbrake cables
T
Rear brake pressure
regulating
valve
S
Rear
shock absorber lower mountings
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle (or safety, eoonomy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks. ad}ustments, component renewal and other helpful Items are included. Refer to the accompanying Illustrations of the engine compartment and tho underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with ihe mlleaget/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result m a long and reliable service life. This Is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some Items but not others at the specified service Intervals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can, and should, be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle Is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yoursell before tne
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.
2 Regular maintenance
1 If. from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 II is possible that there will be times when the engine rs running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely If a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out. outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to bo carried out. II, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those usually required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations a) Cloan, inspect and test the battery
(See
Weekly checks), b) Check alt the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebeft($) (Section 13). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 19). e) Inspect the ignition HT leads (Section 20). 0 Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 18). g) Check the fuel filter (Section 17). h) Check tho condition of ell hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Sect/on 7). i) Check theexhaust
gas emissions (Section 11).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations;
Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following; e) Check the charging system (Chapter 5K Section 4). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 58). c) Check tho fuel system (see relevant Part of Chapter
4).
d) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 20)

Page 41 of 225


Component location - diesel models ib-s
Rear underbody view - turbo diesel model
1
Fuel tank
2
Exhaust
tailpipe
and
silencer 3 Fear axle 4 Coil springs 5
Rear anti-roll bar

Handbrake cables
7
Rear brake pressure regulating valve
8
Rear shock
absorber
lower
mountings
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
This Chapter Is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vohicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with ihe mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service internals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will ctecover that many of the procedures can. and should, be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yoursetf before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out. then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.
2 Regular maintenance
1 If, from the time Ihe vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear Items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine wifl be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased, in such cases, additions! work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test {refer to Chapter 2C} will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious Internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a wa3te of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work Is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those usually required to Improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations a,I Clean, Inspect and test the battery (See Weekly checks). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Drain the water from the fuel filter (Section 4) d) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary dnvebeft(s) (Section 16). e) Check the condition of the air fitter, and renew if necessary (Section 13). f) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 8). g) Check the engine idle speed setting {Section 11). h) Check the exhaust gas emissions (Section 25). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:
Secondary operations All items listed under Pnmary operations, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A, Section 4). b) Renew the fuel filter (Section 12) and check the fuel system (see Chapter 4Q.

Page 120 of 225


3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
essential that you entrust this task to your Flat dealer or a refrlgeralion engineer.

A


Warning: The refrigeration circuit contains a liquid refrigerant and
H
Is dangerous to disconnect any part of the system without specialist knowledge and equipment. The refrigerant is potentially dangerous, and should only be handled by qualified persons. If it is splashed onto tha skin, It can cause severe frostbite, tt Is not Itself poisonous, but In the presence of a naked flame (Including a cigarette), it forms a
poisonous gas. Uncontrolled discharging of the refrigerant is dangerous and potentially damaging to the environment.
10 Air conditioning components ^S - removal and refitting J
Note: Do not operate the air conditioning system If it is known to be short of refrigerant, as this may damage the compressor. 1 The only operation which can be carried
out easily without discharging the refrigerant is renewal of the auxiliary (compressor) drivebelt - this procedure Is described in Chapter 1A or 1B. All other operations must be referred to a Fiat dealer or an air conditioning specialist. 2 If necessary for access to other com-ponents, the compressor can be unbolted and moved aside, without disconnecting its flexible hoses, after removing the drivebelt.

A


Warning: Do not attempt to open the refrigerant circuit. Refer to
the
precautions given in Section 9.
expert22 a/ia http://rutracker.org

Page 148 of 225


5A»1
Chapters Part A:
Starting and charging systems
Contents
Alternator - brush holder/regulator module renewal 6 Alternator/charging system • testing in vehicle 4 Alternator • removal and refitting 5 Auxiliary drivebelt • removal, refitting and adjustment See Chapter 1A or 1B Battery • condition check See Weekly Checks Battery • removal and refitting 3
Battery - testing and charging 2 Electrical fault finding • general Information See Chapter 12 General Information and precautions 1 Starter motor • removal and refitting 8 Starter motor - testing and overhaul 9 Starting system - testing 7
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for & novice with Tittle jg experience ^
Fairly easy, suitable ^ for beginner with some experience 3J
Fairly tfifftait, J^ sutable for competent ^ DIYmechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced D!Y mechanic ^
Verydtfficult, jk stitable far expert DfY X or professional ^
Specifications
General System type 12 volt, negative earth
Starter motor Type: Petrol engines Magneti-Marelli pre-engaged Diesel engines Bosch pre-engaged with reduction gear Output: 5A Petrol engines 0.8 kW (1108 cc) or 0.9 kW (1242 cc) Diesel engines 1.7 kW
Battery Capacity: Petrol engines 32 to 50 amp/hr Diesel engines 60 amp/hr Charge condition: Poor 12.5 volts Normal 12.6 volts Good 12.7 volts
Alternator Type Magneti-Marelli Output 65 to 85 amp
Torque wrench settings Nm ibt ft Alternator 60 44 Battery tray 29 21 Oil pressure switch: Petrol engine 32 24 Diesel engine 37 27

Page 149 of 225


5A«2 Starting and charging systems
1 General information and precautions
General information The engine electrical system consists mainly of the charging and starting systems. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are covered separately from the body electrical devices such as the Ilght3, Instalments, etc (which are covered In Chapter 12). On petrol engine models refer to Part B for information on the ignition system, and on diesel models refer to Part C for information on the preheating system. The electncal system Is of 12-volt negative earth type. The battery fitted as original equipment is of maintenance* free (sealed for life} type and Is charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley. If a non-original battery is fitted It may be of standard or low maintenance type. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged type Incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear before the starter motor is energised. Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch prevents the motor armature being driven by the engine until the pinion disengages from the flywheel.
Precautions Further details of the various systems are given In the relevant Sections of this Chapter. While some repair procedures are given, the usual course of action is to renew the component concerned. The owner whose interest extends beyond mere component renewal should obtain a copy of the Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems Manual, available from the publishers of this manual It Is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semiconductor devices (diodes and transistors), and to avoid the risk of personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, observe the following when working on the system: Always remove rings, watches, etc before working on the electrical system. Even with the battery disconnected, capacitlve discharge could occur If a component's live terminal is earthed through a metal object. This could cause a shock or nasty bum. Do not reverse the battery connections. Components such as the alternator, electronic control units, or any other components having semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably damaged. If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive-to-posibve and negative-to-
negative (see Jump starting). This also applies when connecting a battery charger but In this case both of the battery terminals should first be disconnected. Never disconnect the battery terminals, the alternator, any electrical wiring or any test Instalments when the engine Is running. Do not allow the engine to turn the alter-nator when the alternator Is not connected. Never test for alternator output by flashing the output lead to earth. Never use an ohmmeter ot the type Incorporating a hand-cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing. Always ensure that the battery negative lead is disconnected when working on the electrical system. Before using electric-arc welding equipment on the car, disconnect the battery, alternator and components such as the fuel Injection/ignition electronic control unit to protect them from the risk of damage. Several systems fitted to the vehicle require battery power to be available at all times, either to ensure their continued operation (such as the clock) or to maintain control unit memories or security codos which would be wiped if the battery were to be disconnected. To ensure that there are no unforeseen consequences of this action. Refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual for further Information.
2 Battery- % testing and charging
Standard and tow maintenance battery - testing 1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage, it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte every three months to determine the state of charge of the battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check and compare the results with the following table, Note that the specific gravity readings assume an electrolyte temperature of 15*C (60'F); for every 10*C (18°f) below 158C (60aF) subtract 0.007, For every 108C (16'F) above 15"C (60'F) add 0.007. Ambient temperature Above 26"C Below 25DC Charged 1,210 to 1£30 1,270 to 1.290 70% charged 1.170to1.l90 1.230to1.250 Discharged 1.050toJ.070 1.110 to 1.130 2 If the battery condition is suspect, first check the specific gravity of electrolyte In each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of the internal plates. 3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or more, the battery should be renewed. If the cell variation Is satisfactory but the battery is discharged, it should be charged as described later in this Section.
Maintenance-free battery -testing 4 In cases where a sealed tor life maintenance-free battery is fitted, topplng-up and testing of the electrolyte in each cell Is not possible. The condition of the battery can therefore only be tested using a battery condition Indicator or a voltmeter. 5 Certain models may be fitted with a maintenance-free battery with a built-in charge condition Indicator. The indicator Is located in the top of the battery casing, and indicates the condition of the battery from its colour. If the Indicator shows green, then the battery is In a good state of charge. If the Indicator turns darker, eventually to black, then the battery requires charging, as described later in this Section. If Ihe indicator shows clear/yellow, then the electrolyte level in Ihe battery is too low to allow further use, and tho battery should be renewed. Do not attempt to charge, load or Jump start a battery when the indicator shows dear/yellow. 6 If testing the battery using a voltmeter, connect the voltmeter across the battery and compare the result with those given In the Specifications under 'charge condition'. The test is only accurate if the battery has not been subjected to any kind of charge for the previous six hours. If this is not the esse, switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then wait four to five minutes baforo testing the battery after switching off the headlights. All other electrical circuits must be switched off, so check that the doors and tailgate are fully shut when making the test, 7 It the voltage reading Is less than 12.2 voHs, then the battery Is discharged, whilst a reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates 8 partially discharged condition. 6 If the battery Is to be charged, remove It from the vehicle (Section 3) and charge it as described later In this Section.
Standard and low maintenance battery - charging Note: The following is Intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery) before charging a battery. 9 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4 amps and continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise In specific gravity Is noted over a four hour period. 10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used overnight. 11 Specially rapid boost charges which are claimed to restore the power of the battery in t to 2 hours are not recommended, as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating, 12 While charging the battery, note that the temperature of the electrolyte should never exceed 37.8*C(100°F),

Page 150 of 225


5A«2 Starting and charging systems
Maintenance-free battery -charging Note: The following is intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery) before charging a battery. 13 This battery type takes considerably longer lo fully recharge than the standard type, the time taken being dependent on the extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up
to three days. 14 A constant voltage type charger is required, tooe set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9 votts wth a charger current below 25 amps. Using
mis
method, the battery should be usable within three hours, giving a voltage reading of 12.5 vofts. but this Is for a partially discharged battery and, as mentioned, full charging can
take
considerably longer. 15 If Ihe battery is to be charged from a fully discharged state {condition reading loss lhan 12.2 volts), have it recharged by your FIAT dealer or local automotive electrician, as Ihe charge rate is higher and constant super-vision during charging Is necessary.
3 Battery -removal and refitting
Note: Refer to Disconnecting the battery in ifte Reference Section of this manual before proceeding.
Removal 1 Slacken the clamp bolts and disconnect the ctamp from the battery negative (earth) terminal. 2 Remove the insulation cover (where fitted)
and
disconnect the positive terminal lead(s) in
Die same
way. 3 At the base of the battery, unscrew the bolt from the battery holding clamp plate and remove the clamp plate (see Illustration). A Remove the battery from Ihe engine compartment. 5 II necessary the mounting tray may be removed by unscrewing the bolts. On diesel models it will be necessary to remove the relay guard bolts as well.
Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal but make sure that the positive terminal is connected first followed by the negative terminal.
4 Alternator/charging system - >%•> testing in vehicle
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. 1 If the ignition warning light fails to Illuminate when the ignition is switched on, first check the alternator wiring connections for security. If satisfactory, check that the warning light bulb has not blown, and that the bulbholder is secure in its location in the instrument panel. If the light still fails to illuminate, check the continuity of the warning light feed wire from the alternator to the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the alternator is at fault and should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 2 If the ignition warning light Illuminates when the engine Is running, stop the engine and check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned (see Chapter 1A or 18) and that the alternator connections are secure. If all is so far satisfactory, have the alternator checked by an auto-electrician. 3 If the alternator output is suspect even though the warning light functions correctly, the regulated voltage may be checked as follows. 4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and start the engine. 5 Increase the engine speed until the voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading should be approximately 12 to 13 volts, and no more than 14 volts. 6 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg. the headlights, heated rear window and heater blower) as possible, and check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14 volts. 7 If ihe regulated voltage is not as stated, the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush springs, e faulty voltage regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase winding or worn or damaged slip rings. The alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3.3 Removing the battery clamp plate
5 Alternator -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal {refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove tho right-hand front roadwheel. 3 Remove Ihe Inner cover from under the right-hand wheelarch for access to tho right-hand side of the engine. 4 Disconnect the cables from the rear Of the alternator (see illustration).
Petrol models 5 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebelt. Note that the position of the rpm sensor will prevent complete removal of the drivebelt from the crankshaft puiley. 6 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts then unscrew the upper slot-mounted bolt. Withdraw the alternator from the engine (see illustrations).
Diesel models 7 For additional working room, unclip and remove the upper timing belt cover then unbolt and remove the lower timing belt cover.
5.4 Cable connections on the rear of the alternator
5.6a Alternator adjustment and pivot bolts (petrol engine) B Adjuster bolt C Pivot bolt 5.6b Removing the alternator (petrol engine)

Page 151 of 225


5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor

Page 152 of 225


5A«2 Starting and charging systems
6.4a Starter motor wiring connections (petrol engine)
8 Starter motor -removal and refitting S
Removal t Disconnect the battery negative terminal [refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front
ol
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacking
and Vehicle Support). 3 On petrol engines, unscrew and remove the starter motor mounting bolt located at the top ol the transmission bellhousing. Access is
8.5 Disconnecting the battery cable from the starter motor
8.4b On diesel engines, raise the plastic cover...
gained from behind the battery. 4 Working beneath the vehicle, raise the plastic cover then disconnect the wiring from the solenoid located on top of the starter motor (see illustrations). 5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the positive cable from the solenoid terminal (see illustration). 6 Unscrew the mounting bolts (noting the location of the support bracket on petrol engines), then withdraw the starter motor from the transmission (see illustrations).
Refitting 7 Refit the starter motor by following the removal procedure in reverse.
8.6a Starter motor mounting bolt locations (diesel engine)
8.4c ... and disconnect the solenoid trigger wire
9 Starter motor - ft* testing and overhaul ££
If the starter motor is thought lo be suspect, it should be removed from the vehicle and taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check on the cost of repairs before proceeding as il may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor.
8.6b Removing the starter motor (diesel engine)