steering lock FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Owner's Guide

Bodywork and fittings
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several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is Insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs -filling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking, those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board • measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker's instructions on the pack), otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly. U3ing the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the surface. As soon as a contour that approximates to the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will become sticky and begin lo 'pick-up' on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute Intervals, until the level of the filler is just proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40-grade production paper, and finishing with a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block • otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparled to the filler at the final stage. At this stage, the dent should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered' edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone. Spray the whole area with a light coat of primer - this will show up any imperfections In the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more smooth the surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water, and allow to dry fully.
flflfl^gl tf txxfystopper is used, it can WiMiiBi be mixed with cellulose Hi NT thinners to form a really thin 1 1 paste which is Ideal for filling small holes.
The repair area Is now ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but If you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor In the work area with water will help to settle the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape, and several thicknesses of newspaper, for the masking operations. Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin. or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint, rather than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the pnmer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying at one edge of the repair area, and then, using a side-to-side motion, work until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply wax polish.
Plastic components With the use of more and more plastic body components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major body panels), rectification of more serious damage to such items has become a matter of either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this field, or renewing complete components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the cost of the equipment and materials required for effecting such repairs. The basic technique involves making a groove along the line of the crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr In a power drill. The damaged part is then welded back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod Into the groove. Any excess plastic is then removed, and the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as body components can be made of a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less senous nature (abrasions, minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in equal proportions, this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting. If the owner is renewing a complete component himself, or If he has repaired it with epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing which is compatible with the type of plastic used. At one time, the use of a universal paint was not possible, owing to the complex range of plastics encountered In body component applications. Standard paints, generally speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-pnmer treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full Instructions are normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the method of use is to first apply the pre-pnmer to the component concerned, and allow It to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied, and left to dry for about an hour before finally applying the special-coloured top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured component, where the paint will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property that standard paint does not normally possess.
5 Major body damage -repair
Where serious damage has occurred, or large areas need renewal due to neglect, it means that complete new panels will need welding-in, and this is best left to professionals. If the damage is due to Impact, it will also be necessary to check completely the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can only be carried out accurately by a Fiat dealer using special jigs. If the alignment of the bodyshell is not corrected, the car's handling may be seriously affected. In addition, excessive stress may be Imposed on the steering, suspension, tyres or transmission, causing abnormal wear or even complete failure.

Bodywork and fittings
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12.4 Adjusting the extension of the bonnet pin
12 Bonnet lock components - ^ removal and refitting H
Latch and release lever assembly
Removal 1 Secure the bonnet In the fully open position using the stay. Mark the relationship between the latch and the surface of the bonnet using a soft pencil or marker pen. 2 Slacken and unscrew the bolts, then lower the latch assembly away from the bonnot. Refitting 3 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use the alignment markings made during removal to aid accurate refitting. Note that the mounting holes are slotted to allow adjustment if required. On completion, tighten the bolts securely. 4 The extension of the bonnet pin may be adjusted in necessary, by slackening the locknut and turning the pin with a flat-bladed screwdriver (see illustration).
Striker plate
Removal 5 Mark the relationship between the striker plate and the bodywork using a soft pencil or marker pen. The striker plate can then be removed by slackening and withdrawing the three securing bolts and unhooking the release cable from the operating lever. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use the alignment markings made during removal to aid accurate refitting. Note that the mounting holes are slotted to allow adjustment if required. On completion, tighten the bolts securely.
Suffers 7 If necessary, adjust the protrusion of the rubber buffers on the front crossmember, (located above each headlamp unit) by screwing them in or out as appropriate. When the rubber buffers are correctly adjusted, there should be just enough free movement to
14.3a Remove the screw .
allow the bonnet to be closed and locked easily, without using excessive force, but not enough to allow the bonnet to rattle when secured in the locked position.
13 Bonnet release cable -removal and refitting I
Removal 1 Secure the bonnet in the fully open position. With reference to Section 12, detach Ihe bonnet release cable from the striker plate operating lever. 2 Unscrew the cable clip from above the nght hand headlamp unit. 3 Working around the engine bay, extract the release cable from its securing clips. 4 In the drivers footweil, extracl Ihe fixings and lower the sound insulation panel (where fitted) away from the underside of the steering column/facia. 5 Push the bonnet release handle towards the bulkhead slightly, then free the release cable end fitting from its recess in the handle. Lift the cable inner up, pass the end fitting through the larger hole and withdraw it from the handle. Extract the release cable outer from the mounting bracket by carefully pulling down on the plastic collar. 6 Release the cable from the remaining clips under the facia, then carefully pull the entire cable through the bulkhead grommet Info the engine bay.
14.3b ... then prise out the door grab handle moulding
Refitting 7 Refit the cable by reversing the removal process. On completion, close the bonnet to check that it locks securely, then check the operation of tho release mechanism. If adjustment is required, this can be achieved by repositioning the slotted plastic collar fitted to the cable outer sheath, in the mounting lug on the underside of the striker plate.
14 Door inner trim panel -removal and refitting I
Removal Note: This section describes the removal of the front door trim panel; the procedure for removing the rear door trim panel is essentially the same, 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 With reference to Section 17. remove the trim panel from the rear of the door mirror fixings. 3 Lift off the caps and remove the screw, then prise out the door grab handle moulding (see Illustrations) 4 Prise the electric window/mirror adjustment switch from the armrest and unplug the wiring connector(s). Label them to aid correct refitting later (see illustrations).
14.4a Prise the electric window/mirror adjustment switch from the armrest... 14.4b ... and unplug the wiring connector

Body electrical systems 12*5
4.27 Withdraw the tight unH, then twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise to release it from the light unit
Front fogllght 30 Access to the rear of the fogllght units can be gained by via removable hatches in plastic inner wheel arch liners. 31 Turn the steering wheel to angle the roadwheel away from the rear of the relevant fogllght. 32 Reach through the wheel arch liner and disconnect the wiring from the rear of the fogllght unit at the connector (see illustration). 33 Unscrew the rear cover from the foghghl unit by turning it anticlockwise (see Illustration). 34 Unplug the flying lead from the push-fit connector inside of the rear cover. Release Ihe spring clip, and withdraw the bulb from the rear of the light unit (see illustrations). 35 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of Ihe removal procedure, ensuring that the recess In the bulb flange engages with the lug in the bulbholder.
Rear light cluster bulbs 38 Open the tailgate. Working from within the loadspace. prise the plastic caps from the rear pillar trim panel (see illustration). 37 Using the special socket provided with the vehicle's toolkit, unscrew the rear light cluster securing bolts (see illustrations). 38 Pull the light cluster away from the bodywork. Unplug the electrical wiring at the connector (see illustrations).
4.37b ... unscrew the rear light cluster securing bolts (arrowed)
4.32 Disconnect the wiring from the rear 4.33 Unscrew the rear cover from the of the fogtight unit at the connector fogllght unit by turning It anticlockwise
4.38a Pull the light cluster away from the 4.38b ... unplug the electrical wiring at bodywork... the connector