jacking FORD GRANADA 1985 Service User Guide

V6 engines
17The thermostat is removed in the course
of water pump removal.
1A rough test of the thermostat may be made
by suspending it with a piece of string in a
saucepan full of water(see illustration).Bring
the water to the boil. The thermostat most
open by the time the water boils. If not, renew
it.
2If a thermometer is available, the precise
opening temperature of the thermostat may be
determined and compared with that given in
the Specifications.
3A thermostat which fails to close as the
water cools must also be renewed.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the upper half of the fan shroud
(two bolts, four clips).
3Undo the nut which secures the fan clutch
to the water pump.This nut has a left-hand
thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise direction.
A thin cranked spanner, 32 mm (OHC) or 36
mm (V6) AF is needed(see illustration);
alternatively, if two of the pulley bolts are
removed, a normal thickness or even anadjustable spanner can be used (see
illustrations). Tap the spanner with a mallet if
need be to release the nut.
4The fan can now be unbolted from the
viscous clutch if required. Do not overtighten
the bolts when refitting.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2To provide additional clearance when
removing the cooling fan shroud assembly
(which is removed from below the vehicle),
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
3Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the
motor(s), and where applicable, unclip the
wiring from the fan shroud.
4Unclip the expansion tank hose from the fan
shroud.
5Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan shroud
to the top of the radiator, then tilt the top of theshroud away from the radiator, and lift the
shroud to release the lower securing clips.
Withdraw the assembly from below the vehicle.
6To remove the fan blades, prise the
securing clip from the end of the motor shaft.
7The motor can be separated from the fan
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
and bolts.
8Note that two cooling fans may be fitted,
depending on model. Both fans are secured to
the shroud in the same manner.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
fitting the fan blades, ensure that the drive dog
on the motor shaft engages with the slot in the
rear of the fan blades.
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Remove the fan and viscous coupling.
4If not already done, remove the pump
drivebelt(s), then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley (see illustration).
5Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and
the heater return hose from the pump.
6Remove the timing belt cover, which is
secured by three bolts.
11Water pump - removal and
refitting
10Electric cooling fan(s) -
removal and refitting
9Viscous-coupled fan - removal
and refitting
8Thermostat - testing
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
3
7.16 Thermostat relief valve (arrowed)
positioned in the 12 o’clock position8.1 Checking the thermostat opening
temperature9.3a Dimensions of spanner for undoing
fan clutch nut. Spanner thickness must not
exceed 5 mm (0.2 in)
9.3b Undoing the viscous fan clutch nut9.3c Removing the fan and clutch11.4 Undoing a water pump pulley bolt
X = 10 mm (0.4 in)
Y = 10 mm (0.4 in)Z = 50 mm (2.0 in)
If problems are experienced
with the pulley turning as the
nut is undone, remove the
drivebelt and clamp an old
drivebelt round the pulley to restrain it,
using self-locking pliers.
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DOHC carburettor engine
8This procedure is essentially as described
above, noting the following points:
a)Note the plastic bush which is fitted to the
rear manifold stud. This must be removed
before the gasket can be withdrawn.
b)On refitting ensure that the mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit new
gaskets.
c)Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound
to the manifold studs to aid future
removal.
d)Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified
torque settings.
DOHC fuel-injection engine
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
11Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
12Unscrew the securing nut, and release the
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel.
13Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
14On models fitted with a catalytic
converter, disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring plug.
15Unscrew the securing nuts and disconnect
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Recover the gasket. Support the exhaust
downpipe from underneath the vehicle (eg
with an axle stand) to avoid placing
unnecessary strain on the exhaust system.
16Unscrew the six securing nuts, and lift the
manifold from the cylinder head. Recover the
gasket.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean, and
use a new gasket.
b)Tighten the manifold securing nuts and
the downpipe securing nuts progressively
to the specified torque (where given).
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Periodically inspect the exhaust system for
freedom from corrosion and security of
mountings. Large holes will be obvious; small
holes may be found more easily by letting the
engine idle and partly obstructing the tailpipe
with a wad of cloth.
2Check the condition of the rubber
mountings by applying downward pressure on
the exhaust system and observing the
mountings for splits or cracks. Renew
deteriorated mountings.
3The exhaust systems fitted in production
have fewer sections than those available for
repair. Repair sections may be fitted to
production systems by cutting at the
appropriate point.
4The production exhaust systems are made
of aluminised and stainless steel. Repair
systems are available to the same standard, or
in standard quality (SQ) painted mild steel.
5It is recommended that the whole exhaust
system be removed even if only part requires
renewal, since separation of old joints, cutting
pipes etc is much easier away from the
vehicle. Proceed as follows.
6Disconnect the battery negative lead. Raise
and support the vehicle.
7Unbolt the manifold-to-downpipe flanged
joint(s).
8On V6 models, unbolt the left-hand front
silencer mounting.
9Release any earth straps.
10With the help of an assistant, unhook the
system from its mountings and remove it.
11Renew sections as necessary. Apply
exhaust jointing compound to sliding and
flanged joints, but do not tighten their clamps
yet. Use new sealing rings where necessary
(see illustration).
12Offer the system to the vehicle and hook it
onto the mountings.
13Refit any earth straps. On V6 models, also
refit the left-hand front silencer mounting.
14Loosely fit the manifold flange nuts.
Correct the alignment of the system, then
tighten all clamp nuts and bolts, starting at the
manifold flange(s) and working rearwards.
15Check that the system alignment is still
satisfactory then reconnect the battery. Run
the engine and check for leaks.
16When the system has warmed up, stop the
engine and carefully check the tightness of the
clamp nuts and bolts.
DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engines
17Follow the above procedure, noting that
flanged joints incorporating gaskets may be
used to join exhaust sections on these
models. Where applicable, renew the gaskets
on refitting.
18On models fitted with a catalyticconverter, disconnect the battery negative
terminal and disconnect the exhaust gas
oxygen (HEGO) sensor wiring plug before
removing the downpipe.
DOHC engine
Note: The exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
is delicate and will not work if it is dropped or
knocked, if the power supply is disrupted, or if
any cleaning materials are used on it. Never
touch the tip of the sensor as this can also
damage it.
1Ensure that the engine and the exhaust
system are cold.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the sensor wiring plug halves by
releasing the locktabs and pulling on the plug
halves, not the wiring.
5Slide the heat shield (where fitted) from the
sensor.
6Bearing in mind the note made at the start
of this operation, unscrew the sensor from the
exhaust downpipe, and recover the sealing
ring (see illustration).
7Commence refitting by ensuring that the
sensor threads and the corresponding threads
in the downpipe are clean.
8Refit the sensor using a new sealing ring,
and tighten it to the specified torque.
9Further refitting is a reversal of removal, but
on completion start the engine, and check for
leaks around the sensor sealing ring.
V6 engines
10The sensors fitted to these models can be
removed and refitted using the information
given above, noting that on early models there
was only one sensor, which was fitted at the
point where the two downpipes meet below
the engine, and on some later models there
are two sensors, one in each downpipe.
43Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO)
sensor (models with catalytic
converter) - removal and
refitting
42Exhaust system - inspection,
repair and renewal
4•22Fuel and exhaust systems
43.6 Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
(viewed from underneath)
42.11 Exhaust pipe flanged joint
A Sealing ring
B Flange
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Models up to July 1990
1The carbon canister is situated in the engine
compartment where it is mounted onto the
right-hand valance next to the suspension
strut mounting.
2To remove the canister first disconnect the
battery negative terminal. If necessary, undo
the two coolant expansion tank retaining
screws and position the tank clear of the
canister to improve access.
3Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the canister.
4Slacken and remove the mounting bolt and
withdraw the canister from the engine
compartment.
5Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
Models from July 1990
6The carbon canister is situated behind the
right-hand rear wheel where it is mounted onto
the vehicle underbody (see illustration).
7To gain access to the canister, chock the
front wheels then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
8Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
9Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the canister and remove the canister
retaining screw.
10Lift the canister upwards to disengage it
from the mounting bracket and remove it from
under the car.
11Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure ensuring that the canister retaining
clip is correctly located in the mounting
bracket.1The purge solenoid is located on the right-
hand side of the engine compartment next to the
suspension strut mounting (see illustration).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the solenoid wiring plug halves
by releasing the locktabs and pulling on the
plug halves, not the wiring.
4Note the locations of the two solenoid
pipes, and the orientation of the solenoid to
assist with refitting.
5Disconnect the two pipes from the solenoid,
and withdraw the solenoid from the location.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the solenoid pipes are correctly
reconnected, and that the solenoid is correctly
orientated as noted before removal.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1It is generally believed that continuous use
of unleaded fuel can cause rapid wear of
conventional valve seats. Valve seat inserts
which can tolerate unleaded fuel are fitted to
some engines. These engines are identified as
follows:
1.8 litre - S stamped adjacent to No 4 spark
plug
2.0 litre - A, L, P, PP or R stamped adjacent
to No 4 spark plug
2.8 litre - D or E stamped in centre of
cylinder head exhaust flange
2Engines which are marked as above can be
run entirely on unleaded fuel.
3Engines which are not fitted with the specialvalve seat inserts can still be run on unleaded
fuel, but one tankful of leaded fuel should be
used for every three tankfuls of unleaded. This
will protect the valve seats.
4On all models, the ignition timing may have
to be retarded when unleaded fuel is used. For
up to date information consult a Ford dealer.
DOHC engines
5All models can be operated on unleaded
petrol without the need for any adjustments.
Note that models fitted with a catalytic
converter must only be operated on unleaded
petrol, and leaded petrol must notbe used.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
6All engines can be run on 95 octane
unleaded fuel (ie Premium grade unleaded).
7On 2.9 litre models equipped with a manual
gearbox produced after approximately
December 1988 and models equipped with
automatic transmission which were produced
after approximately July 1988, there is no
need to adjust the ignition timing to run on
unleaded petrol. These models can be
identified by their ignition module number
suffixes; on manual gearbox models the
module should have a JA suffix and on models
equipped with automatic transmission the
module should have a BD suffix. Refer to your
Ford dealer for further information.
8On all other earlier models, the ignition
timing must be adjusted before the engine can
be run on unleaded petrol. On these models
the timing must be adjusted by the fitment of
an octane adjustment lead, described in
Chapter 5, Section 23. On both the 2.4 & 2.9
litre engines, the lead should be fitted and the
red terminal earthed; this retards the ignition
timing by 4°from the initial setting of 12°
BTDC, to the correct setting of 8°BTDC.
9Models which are equipped with a catalytic
converter must be run on unleaded fuel only.
46Unleaded fuel - general
45Carbon canister purge
solenoid (models with
catalytic converter) - removal
and refitting44Carbon canister (models with
catalytic converter) - removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•23
4
44.6 Carbon canister location (arrowed) -
models from July 199045.1 Carbon canister purge valve
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2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Drain the cooling system (Chapter 3). Save
the coolant if it is fit for re-use.
4Disconnect the multi-plug from the sensor.
Pull on the plug, not on the wiring (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the sensor and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Refill the cooling system.
Note: The manifold heater must not be
removed while it is hot.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2Remove the air cleaner to improve access.
3Remove the three bolts which secure the
heater to the underside of the manifold.
4Disconnect the electrical feed from the heater.
5Remove the heater. Recover the gasket and
O-ring (see illustration).
6Use a new gasket and O-ring when refitting.
Offer the heater to the manifold, insert the
three bolts and tighten them evenly, making
sure that the heater does not tip or jam.
7Reconnect the electrical feed.
8Refit the air cleaner and reconnect the
battery.
All relays are located behind the facia panel.
Access is gained by removing the facia top
(see illustration).
Testing of a suspect relay is by substitution
of a known good unit.
1All models have a facility for retarding the
ignition timing by up to six degrees without
physically disturbing the distributor. The
adjustment is intended for use when the
correct grade of fuel is not available.
2Adjustment is made by earthing one or two
leads (sometimes called “octane adjustment”
leads) which terminate in a multi-plug next to
the ignition coil (see illustrations). Ideally a
service adjustment lead, available from a Ford
dealer, should be used. Cut and insulate the
wires in the adjustment lead which are not to
be earthed.
3The amount of ignition retardation is as
follows:
Wire(s) Degrees retard
earthed Carb. injection V6
Blue 2 4 6
Red 4 2 3
Blue and red 6 6 Forbidden
4Performance and efficiency will suffer as a
result of this adjustment. Normal timing should
be restored (by isolating the adjustment leads)
when the correct grade of fuel is available.
5If the yellow adjustment lead is earthed, thiswill raise the idle speed by 75 rpm (OHC) or 50
rpm (V6). It may be found that the yellow lead
has already been earthed in production, in
which case disconnecting it will lower the idle
speed by the same amount. This adjustment
does not apply to 1.8 litre carburettor models.
1.8 models from January 1987
6The effect of the “octane adjustment” leads
on these models fitted with the ESC Hybrid
Module is as follows.
Red lead earthed2°retarded
Blue lead earthed4°retarded
Red and blue leads earthed6°retarded
1Fitted to DOHC engines,the sensor is
located at the right-hand rear of the cylinder
block, behind the oil filter (see illustration).
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Access is most easily obtained from
underneath the vehicle. To improve access,
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
5Remove the securing screw and withdraw the
sensor from the location in the cylinder block.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new sensor O-ring and tightening the retaining
screw to the specified torque setting.
24Crankshaft speed/position
sensor - removal and refitting
23Ignition timing and idle speed
adjustments
22Engine management system
relays - testing
21Manifold heater (carburettor
models) - removal and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•11
5
20.4 Coolant temperature sensor multi-plug21.5 Removing the manifold heater22.1 Engine management system relays
A Power holdB Manifold heater
23.2a Octane adjustment lead multi-plug
23.2b Service adjustment lead for timing
and idle adjustment
A Earthing point (coil
screw)
B Multi-plugC Cut wires not to be
earthed
24.1 Crankshaft speed/position sensor
(viewed from underneath)
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1The sensor is located in the upper section of
the inlet manifold (DOHC fuel-injection
engines) or the side of the plenum chamber
(V6 engines).
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by pulling
on the plug, not the wiring (see illustration).
4Unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold
and remove it.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, applying a
smear of sealant to the threads of the sensor
and tightening it to the specified torque.
1Fitted to 2.0 litre DOHC fuel-injected
engines,this sensor is located in the top of the
fuel rail.
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead, and to improve access,
disconnect the wiring plug from the air charge
temperature sensor (in the inlet manifold).
Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by pulling
on the plug, not the wiring.
3Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor
wiring plug, again pulling on the plug (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the sensor from the fuel rail and
remove it.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening
the sensor to the specified torque.1Fitted to DOHC fuel-injected engines and to
V6 engines with catalytic converters, this
sensor is located in the left-hand side of the
gearbox/transmission.
2To remove the sensor first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
4Detach the sensor wiring connector from
the bracket, and separate the two halves of
the connector (see illustration).
5Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdraw
the wiring connector bracket, noting the
orientation.
6Withdraw the sensor from the
gearbox/transmission casing.
7Before refitting the sensor, examine the O-
ring, and renew if damaged or worn.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the wiring connector bracket is correctly
located.
1On DOHC fuel-injected engines, this sensor
is located on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment where it is mounted either on
the suspension turret or on the bulkhead (see
illustration). V6 engines have the sensormounted on the centre of the engine
compartment bulkhead.
2To remove the sensor first disconnect the
battery negative terminal.
3Remove the two sensor retaining screws
and carefully withdraw the sensor, taking care
not to strain the wiring.
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor,
pulling on the plug not the wiring, then
disconnect the vacuum hose and remove the
sensor.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
28Manifold absolute pressure
(MAP) sensor - removal and
refitting
27Vehicle speed sensor -
removal and refitting
26Fuel temperature sensor -
removal and refitting
25Air charge temperature
sensor - removal and refitting
5•12Engine electrical systems
25.3 Disconnecting the air charge
temperature sensor wiring plug
28.1 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor location - models equipped with a
catalytic converter
26.3 Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug27.4 Vehicle speed sensor wiring plug
(arrowed)
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reference to horn switch plate retaining
screws. Note that the wheel is retained by a
bolt, not a nut as on earlier models. To gain
access to the bolt, prise out the horn button
and disconnect the wiring connectors.
1This operation is for correcting small errors
in steering wheel centralisation - up to 60°. For
larger errors, remove the steering wheel and
make a rough correction by repositioning the
wheel on refitting.
2Drive the vehicle in a straight line on a level
surface. Note the angle by which the steering
wheel deviates from the desired straight-
ahead position.
3Raise the front of the vehicle by driving it
onto ramps, or with a jack and axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
4Slacken both track rod end locknuts. Also
slacken the steering rack bellows outer clips.
5Make alignment marks between each track
rod end and its rod, so that the amount of
rotation applied can be accurately determined.
6Turn both track rodsin the same direction
to correct the steering wheel position. As a
rough guide, 19°of track rod rotation will
change the steering wheel position by 1°. To
correct error at the steering wheel, rotate both
track rods anti-clockwise (viewed from the
left-hand side of the vehicle), and the reverse
to correct as anti-clockwise errors. Both track
rods must be rotated by the same amount.
7Tighten the bellows clips and the track rod
end locknuts when adjustment is correct.
Lower the vehicle.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Position the steering in the straight-ahead
position.
3Remove the steering wheel. This is not
essential, but will improve access.
4Working under the bonnet, disconnect the
intermediate shaft universal joint from the
steering column shaft.5Remove the steering column shrouds and
disconnect the switch multi-plugs. Do not
forget the ignition/starter switch.
6Disconnect the bonnet release cable from the
operating lever on the underside of the column.
7Prise out the driver’s side air vent. Remove
the under-dash insulation and trim panel on
the driver’s side, unclipping the bulb failure
module, where applicable.
8Remove the three nuts which secure the
column height adjuster to the mounting bracket
(see illustration). Remove the column assembly
by drawing it into the vehicle. Do not drop it or
otherwise mistreat it if it is to be re-used.9When refitting, have an assistant guide the
column shaft into the intermediate shaft
universal joint. Secure the column with the
three nuts inside the vehicle and adjust it to
the minimum length position, then tighten the
coupling pinch-bolt.
10Complete refitting by reversing the
removal operations.
1Remove the steering column (see
illustration).
2Insert the key into the lock and turn it to
position 1. (If the lock has failed so that the key
will not enter, destructive methods will have to
be used.)
8Steering column lock - removal
and refitting
7Steering column - removal and
refitting
6Steering wheel - centralising
Steering and suspension 11•5
11
7.8 Two of the three nuts (arrowed) which
secure the column height adjuster
8.1 View of steering wheel and column
A Steering wheel
B Mounting bracket and
spring
C Thrust washer and spring
D Lower bearingE Height adjuster
F Column shaft and spire
washer
G Multi-function switchH Ignition/steering lock
I Horn brush unit
J Upper bearing
K Multi-function switch
Make alignment marks
between the two shafts for
reference when reassembling.
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3Depress the locking button with a small
screwdriver. Draw the lock barrel out of its
housing using the key (see illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1The intermediate shaft and flexible coupling
are not available separately, and so must be
renewed as a unit.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Position the steering straight-ahead.
4Remove the pinch-bolts which secure the
upper and lower ends of the intermediate
shaft. Free the universal joint from the column
shaft, then pull the flexible coupling off the
pinion shaft.
5When refitting, engage the master spline on
the pinion shaft with the groove in the flexible
coupling.
6Tighten the pinch-bolts to the specified
torque.
7Reconnect the battery.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 21.
All engines except DOHC
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Wipe clean around the unions, then
disconnect the high pressure and return pipes
from the pump and the reservoir. Be prepared
for fluid spillage; take steps to keep fluid out of
the alternator.
3Remove the pump drivebelt(s).
4Remove the pump mounting, pivot and
adjustment bolts (as applicable) and lift the
pump from the engine (see illustration).
5If a new pump is to be fitted, recover the
pulley and mounting plate from the old pump.6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the drivebelt tension on completion and
bleed the steering hydraulic system.
DOHC engines
7The pump is mounted on a bracket on the
front right-hand side of the cylinder block. To
improve access to the pump, firmly apply the
handbrake then jack up the front of the car
and support it securely on axle stands (see
“Jacking”).
8Place a suitable container under the pump,
unscrew the fluid pipe unions, and drain the
fluid.
9Remove the drivebelt with reference to
Chapter 1.
10Prevent the pulley from rotating using a
strap wrench (which can be improvised using
an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the three pulley
securing bolts (see illustration). Withdraw the
pulley.
11Unscrew the three pump securing bolts
from the front of the pump bracket, and the
single bolt from the rear of the bracket, and
withdraw the pump (see illustration).
12Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a)Reconnect the fluid unions using new O-
rings.
b)On completion, top-up and bleed the
power steering fluid circuit.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Clean around the hose unions on the
steering gear. Remove the single securing
bolt, withdraw the hoses and catch the fluid
which will drain from the reservoir.
3Clean around the hose unions on the pump.
Disconnect the unions and remove the hoses.
4Refit in the reverse order to removal, using
new O-rings.
5Top-up the steering fluid and bleed the
system.
1Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the front
wheel on the side concerned.
2Slacken the track rod end locknut by half a
turn.
3Remove the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut a few turns (see
illustration).
4Break the balljoint taper with a proprietary
balljoint separator (see illustration). Remove
the separator and the nut and disengage the
track rod end from the steering arm.
5Unscrew the track rod end from the track
rod, being careful not to disturb the locknut.
13Track rod end - removal and
refitting
12Power steering hoses -
removal and refitting
11Power steering pump -
removal and refitting
10Power steering pump
drivebelt - removal, refitting
and tensioning
9Steering intermediate shaft
and flexible coupling - removal
and refitting
11•6Steering and suspension
8.3 Depress the column lock locking button
11.11 . . . for access to the front pump
securing bolts (arrowed)13.3 Track rod end balljoint nut unscrewed
11.4 Steering pump pivot bolt (arrowed) -
V6 model shown11.10 Unbolt the power steering pump
pulley . . .
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1Raise the vehicle on ramps or on a hoist, so
that the weight is still on the wheels.
2Remove the lower arm pivot nut and bolt
(see illustration).
3Remove the anti-roll bar end nut, dished
washer and plastic cover. Note which way
round these components are fitted.
4Now raise and support the vehicle so that
the front wheels are off the ground.
5Remove the split pin from the lower arm
balljoint nut. Back off the nut a few turns,
break the taper with a balljoint separator, then
remove the nut and free the balljoint from the
stub axle carrier.
6Pull the lower arm off the anti-roll bar and
remove it.
7If the balljoint is defective, the whole arm
must be renewed. The dust boot can be
renewed separately if required.
8The anti-roll bar bushes (compliance
bushes) can be removed by cutting off their
flanges with a chisel, then pressing or tapping
out the remains. Fit new bushes by tapping
them home with a tube or socket.
9The pivot bush can be pressed out using a
bench vice and a couple of large sockets or
suitable pieces of tube. The new pivot bush
should be lubricated with soap or glycerine
(notoil or grease) before being fitted in a
similar fashion. Do not keep the new bush
compressed in the tube for longer than
necessary, in case it becomes permanently
distorted.
10Commence refitting by offering the arm to
the anti-roll bar. Make sure that the shallow
dished washer and the plastic cover are fitted
on the inboard side of the bar (furthest from
the nut).
11Refit the balljoint to the stub axle carrier.
Tighten the castellated nut to the specified
torque and secure it with a new split pin.
12Fit the pivot end of the arm into the
crossmember and secure it with the pivot nut
and bolt. Jacking the vehicle up or down to
vary the loading on the wheels may help to get
the holes lined up. Do not tighten the pivot nut
and bolt yet.
13Lower the vehicle back onto its wheels.14Fit the deep dished washer and the plastic
cover over the end of the anti-roll bar. Fit the
nut and tighten it to the specified torque.
15Tighten the lower arm pivot nut and bolt to
the specified torque.
1Raise the vehicle on ramps or a hoist, so
that the weight is still on the wheels.
2Unbolt the two anti-roll bar clamps (see
illustration).
3Now raise and support the vehicle with the
wheels free.
4Remove the two nuts which hold the ends
of the anti-roll bar to the lower arms. Recover
the plastic covers and deep dished washers.
5Remove one lower arm pivot nut and bolt.
Prise the lower arm out of the crossmember
and work the anti-roll bar free from it.
6Pull the anti-roll bar out of the other lower
arm and remove it. Recover the other
compliance bush covers and washers.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but do not finally tighten any fastenings until
the weight of the vehicle is back on the
wheels. Tighten in the following order:
a)Anti-roll bar clamps
b)Anti-roll bar-to lower arm nuts
c)Lower arm pivot nut and bolt
8Make sure that the anti-roll bar clamp
bushes are not twisted on completion.
Compliance bushes
1These are described in Section 18. It is not
strictly necessary to remove the lower arms to
renew these bushes, though obviously access
is not good with the arms installed.
Clamp bushes
2Although it is possible to remove and refit
the clamp bushes without removing the anti-
roll bar, since the bushes are split, this is not
recommended by the makers.
3Remove the anti-roll bar as described in the
previous Section.4Slide the clamp bushes off the anti-roll bar,
if necessary prising them open a little first.
5Lubricate the new bushes with glycerine or
soap and slide them into position with the split
facing forwards.
6Refit the anti-roll bar.
1Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the front
wheel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Unbolt the brake caliper and suspend it
nearby so that the flexible hose is not strained.
4Remove the ABS sensor from the stub axle
carrier.
5Separate the track rod end and suspension
lower arm balljoints from the stub axle carrier.
6Unclip the ABS/brake pad wear wiring from
the strut.
7Remove the dust cover from the top of the
strut.
8Have an assistant support the strut.
Remove the three nuts which secure the strut
to the turret (see illustration).Do notundo
the centre nut.
9Lower the strut out of the turret and remove
it.
10Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Do not fully tighten the strut-to-turret nuts until
the weight of the vehicle is back on its wheels.
21Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
20Front anti-roll bar bushes -
renewal
19Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
18Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
Steering and suspension 11•9
11
19.2 A front anti-roll bar clamp
21.8 Two of the three nuts (arrowed)
securing the suspension strut to the turret
18.2 Front suspension lower arm components
A Anti-roll bar
B Rear dished washer and cover
C Bushes
D Balljoint
E Front dished washer and cover
F Locknut
G Pivot bush
procarmanuals.com

IND•2
F
Facia panels and trim - 12•12
Fast idle speed adjustment - 4•13
Fault finding- REF•5et seq
Fault-finding - electrical system - 5•3, 13•3
Final drive and driveshafts- 1•15, 9•1et
seq, 11•10, REF•9
Fire - 0•5
Flasher switch and unit - 13•11
Fluid leakage - REF•8
Fluid level checks - 1•6
Flywheel ring gear - 2A•14, 2C•15
Flywheel/driveplate - 2A•9, 2A•16, 2B•15,
2C•11, 2C•17
Foglight - 13•5,13•13
Footbrake - 0•11, 0•12
Footwell lights - 13•8
Fuel and exhaust systems- 0•14, 4•1et seq,
REF•8
Fuel computer components - 13•17
Fuel consumption high - REF•8
Fuel filler lock barrel - 12•7
Fuel filler switch - 13•18
Fuel filter - 1•19, 4•14
Fuel flow sensor - 13•18
Fuel gauge gives false reading - REF•11
Fuel odour - REF•8
Fuel pressure regulator - 4•18
Fuel temperature sensor - 5•12
Fuel trap (carburettor models) - 5•9
Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5
Fumes from exhaust system - REF•8
Fuses - 13•13
G
G (gravity) switch - 10•14
Gaskets - REF•4
Gear linkage - 7A•4
Gear selection problems - REF•8, REF•9
Glossary of technical terms - REF•12
Glovebox light - 13•8
Graphic display module - 13•18
Graphic equaliser - 13•21
Grille - 12•9
H
Handbrake “ON” switch - 13•12
Handbrake - 0•11, 10•11
Handles - 12•6
Hazard warning switch - 13•9, 13•13
HC emissions - 0•14
Headlight - 13•4, 13•6, 13•7, 13•11
Headlining - 12•11
Headphone relay - 13•22
Heated rear window switch - 13•13
Heated seat control switches - 13•13
Heater assembly - 3•7, 3•8, 3•9, 3•10,
13•11, 13•20
High frequency units - 13•22
High pressure hose - 10•10
Hinges - 1•12
Horn - 13•10
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory
sound - REF•11Horn fails to operate - REF•11
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation - REF•11
Horn operates all the time - REF•11
Horn switch plate, slip rings and brushes -
13•10
HT leads - 5•5
HT voltage - 5•3
Hub - 11•11
Hydraulic system seals and hoses - 1•19
Hydraulic unit - 10•8, 10•9, 10•10
Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5
I
Idle mixture - 1•10
Idle speed - 1•10, 4•7, 4•9, 4•11, 4•14, 5•11
Idle speed control valve - 4•15
Idle speed linkage - 1•15
Ignition coil - 5•9
Ignition module - 5•8
Ignition system - 1•17
Ignition timing - 5•7, 5•11
Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to
come on - REF•11
Ignition/no-charge warning light remains
illuminated with engine running - REF•11
Ignition/starter switch - 13•11
Inlet manifold - 1•14, 4•19
Instrument cluster - 13•9, 13•10
Instrument illumination dimmer switch - 13•11
Instrument panel lights - 13•8
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic -
REF•11
Instruments and electrical equipment - 1•16
Intensive maintenance - 1•6
Interior lights - 13•7
Introduction to the Ford Granada - 0•4
J
Jacking - 0•6
Joint mating faces - REF•4
Joystick fader control - 13•22
Jump starting - 0•10
Jumps out of gear - REF•8
L
Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks
but will not lock - REF•11
Leaks - 0•8, 1•10
Lighter - 13•10
Lighting master switch - 13•11
Lights - 13•4, 13•6
Lights inoperative - REF•10
Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•4
Locks - 1•12, 12•6, 12•7
Loudspeakers - 13•21, 13•22
Low pressure hose - 10•10
Lower arm - 11•9, 11•12
Lubricant leaks - REF•8
Lubricants and fluids - 1•2
Luggage area light - 13•8
M
Main bearings - 2A•11, 2A•15, 2B•17,
2C•12, 2C•15
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe -
12•1
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets -
12•2
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor -
5•12
Manifold heater - 5•11
Manual gearbox- 1•11, 2B•6, 2B•7, 7A•1et
seq, REF•8
Manual steering - 11•3
Master cylinder - 10•12
Mirror - 0•11, 12•12, 13•11
Mixture adjustment potentiometer - 4•19
Mixture adjustments - 4•7, 4•9, 4•11, 4•14
Motifs and emblems - 12•10
Motor factors - 0•9
Mountings - 2A•11, 2B•8, 2C•12
N
Needle valve and float - 4•11
Number plate light - 13•5
O
Oil - 1•6, 1•9
Oil filler cap - 1•10
Oil filter - 1•9, 2A•11
Oil leakage from final drive - REF•9
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with
engine running - REF•7
Oil pressure warning switch - 13•12
Oil pump - 2A•10, 2A•12, 2A•16, 2B•16,
2B•17, 2C•11, 2C•14, 2C•17
Oil seals - 2A•10, 2B•15, 2C•12, 9•2, 9•3,
REF•4
On load voltage check - 5•5
Open-circuit - 13•3
Overcooling - REF•7
Overhead console - 12•17
Overheating - REF•7
P
Pads - 1•10, 10•4, 10•5
Parcel shelf - 12•19
Parking light - 13•4
Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) - 10•14
Pedals - 6•2, 4•6, 10•8
Pierburg 2V carburettor - 4•7, 4•9
Pistons and connecting rods - 2A•11, 2A•13,
2A•15, 2B•17, 2C•12, 2C•14, 2C•16
Pitching and/or rolling around corners, or
during braking - REF•10
Plastic components - 12•3
Poisonous or irrirant substances - 0•5
Power steering - 1•16, 11•3, 11•4, 11•6
Power valve diaphragm - 4•12
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during
acceleration or under load - REF•7
Printed circuit board - 13•20
Propeller shaft- 8•1et seq, REF•9
Pushrods - 2C•13
Index
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