engine FORD SIERRA 1986 1.G Introduction Workshop Manual

Ford Sierra
Service and Repair Manual
Steve Rendle and Christopher Rogers
Models covered
Saloon (Sapphire and Hatchback), Estate and P100 Pick-up models, including special/limited editions,
with four-cylinder SOHC, DOHC & CVH petrol engines and two-wheel-drive
Does not cover V6 or Diesel engine models, four-wheel-drive models, or RS Cosworth(903 - 368 - 11Y8)
© Haynes Publishing 1996
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any information storage
or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the
copyright holder.
ISBN 1 85960 090 5
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from from the British library.Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,
Somerset BA22 7JJ
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320 USA
Editions Haynes S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honore, 75001 PARIS, France

LIVING WITH YOUR FORD SIERRAIntroduction to the Ford SierraPage0•4
AcknowledgementsPage0•4
Safety first!Page0•5
ROADSIDE REPAIRSJacking, vehicle support and wheel changingPage0•6
TowingPage0•7
Identifying leaksPage0•8
Jump startingPage0•9
Weekly Checks
IntroductionPage0•10
Underbonnet check pointsPage0•10
Engine Oil levelPage0•12
Coolant levelPage0•12
Screen washer fluid levelPage0•13
Brake fluid levelPage0•13
Power steering fluid levelPage0•14
Electrical systemsPage0•14
BatteryPage0•15
Wiper bladesPage0•15
Tyre condition and pressurePage0•16
Lubricants and fluidsPage0•17
Tyre pressuresPage0•18
MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and ServicingPage1•1
Maintenance schedulePage1•4
Maintenance proceduresPage1•9
Contents

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
SOHC enginesPage2A•1
DOHC enginesPage2B•1
CVH enginesPage2C•1
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systemsPage3•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor modelsPage4A•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - fuel injection modelsPage4B•1
Engine electrical systemsPage5•1
TRANSMISSION
ClutchPage6•1
Manual gearboxPage7A•1
Automatic transmissionPage7B•1
Propellor shaftPage8•1
Final drive and driveshaftsPage9•1
BRAKES AND SUSPENSION
Braking systemPage10•1
Suspension and steeringPage11•1
BODY EQUIPMENT
Bodywork, trim and fittingsPage12•1
Body electrical systemsPage13•1
Wiring DiagramsPage13•22
Reference
General dimensions and weightsPageREF•1
Buying spare parts and vehicle identificationPageREF•3
General repair proceduresPageREF•4
Tools and working facilitiesPageREF•5
MOT test checks PageREF•7
Fault findingPageREF•11
Glossary of technical termsPageREF•18
IndexPageREF•23
Contents

0•4
The Ford Sierra was first introduced in late 1982 with the option of
seven different engines and four different trim levels. This manual
covers the four cylinder in-line petrol engines, but other models in the
range are fitted with V6 or diesel engines.
The Sierra was introduced by Ford as the successor to the Cortina
and initially received a mixed reception as it was one of the first
vehicles to make use of the “aeroback” body style designed to reduce
the air drag coefficient to a minimum in the interests of fuel economy.
Mechanically the Sierra is similar to the Cortina with the exception of
all-round independent suspension.
Initially, 1.3, 1.6 and 2.0 litre SOHC carburettor engines were
available, with Hatchback and Estate body styles. In late 1984, a 1.8
litre SOHC engine became available and in 1985, a performance
orientated 2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection engine was introduced.Towards the end of 1986, the 1.3 litre engine was phased out. In order
to fill a gap in the range, a Saloon body style, designated the Sapphire,
was introduced in early 1987 and shortly afterwards, a 1.8 litre CVH
engine replaced the previously used 1.8 litre SOHC engine throughout
the model range.
A 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in September 1991 to replace
the 1.6 litre SOHC engine used previously, this engine being broadly
similar to the original 1.8 litre CVH engine which was in turn uprated in
March, 1992.
A 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead Camshaft) engine was in-
troduced in August 1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine.
In early 1988, a Sierra-based P100 pick-up model became available
to replace the previous Cortina-based design. The P100 consists of a
Sierra-type “cab” and front suspension, and a Ford Transit-type rear
suspension and 2.0 litre engine.
A wide range of standard and optional
equipment is available within the Sierra
range to suit most tastes, including an
anti-lock braking system.
For the home mechanic, the Sierra is a
straightforward vehicle to maintain and
repair since design features have been
incorporated to reduce the actual cost of
ownership to a minimum, and most of the
items requiring frequent attention are
easily accessible.
Ford Sierra L
Ford Sierra Ghia Estate
Introduction
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they
do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or
publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions
from, the information given.Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations
showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the
copyright of the Ford Motor Company and are used with their
permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who
provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at
Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.
Introduction to the Ford Sierra
Acknowledgements

0•5Safety First!
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Specia hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•8Roadside repairs
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oilGearbox oil
Brake fluidPower steering fluidOil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

0•9Roadside repairs
When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:
4Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.
4Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.
4Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.
4If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.
4Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are
three possibilities:
1The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
2The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).
3The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
batteryConnect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery
Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.
123
4
Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the
engine.5
Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.6
Jump starting

0•10
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;MKeeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
MMany breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are
particularly common, and a quick check on a
regular basis will often prevent the majority of
these.MIf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when your
brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
regularly will give advance warning of this kind
of problem.
MIf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Underbonnet check points
§2.0 litre OHC
Carburettor model
(air cleaner removed for clarity)
ALocation of oil level dipstick
BEngine oil filler cap
CCoolant expansion tank
DBrake fluid reservoir
EWindscreen washer reservoir
FBattery
§2.0 litre OHC
Fuel injection model
AOil level dipstick
BEngine oil filler cap
CCoolant expansion tank
DBrake fluid reservoir
EWindscreen washer reservoir
FBattery
Introduction
Weekly checks

0•11
§1.8 litre CVH
Air cleaner removed for clarity
AOil level dipstick
BEngine oil filler cap
CCoolant expansion tank
DBrake fluid reservoir
EWindscreen washer reservoir
FBattery
§2.0 litre DOHC
AOil level dipstick
BEngine oil filler cap
CCoolant expansion tank
DPower steering fluid reservoir
EWindscreen washer reservoir
FBattery
Weekly checks

Coolant level Engine oil level
Before you start
4Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
lAlways maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
0•12
Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
withdraw it again.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
through the expansion tank filler neck
until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level
mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far
as it will go until it is secure.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion
tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system
pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn
the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at
the “MAX” mark. When the engine is hot, the
level may rise slightly above this mark.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the
upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark.
Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level
from the lower mark to the upper mark.Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the
oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).
On some models, the dipstick is brightly
coloured for easy identification. Refer to
the photos on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for the
exact location for each engine type12
3
123
4
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.Car Care
lWith a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.lIt is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
Weekly checks